The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Audio/Jukebox/MP3 Forum => Topic started by: ami-man on March 26, 2008, 10:41:43 am
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Hi,
If you require advice on Rowe Ami jukeboxes with regards to faults, where to get parts etc by all means leave a post.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Welcome ami-man !! (Alan)
You've helped me in the past on my AMI Disco 200 project.
Very helpful indeed.
:cheers:
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Just moved a rowe ami 200 model r-85.father in law got it free from a friend next door.It was hooked up to external speakers in basement with remote volume control.that stayed at the house.Had to dismantle part of it because the thing is a beast.Well anyway,I hooked up the amp and jukebox speaker 2 lower 2 upper.I think the volume control is bad or the speakers.the amp seems ok.I did all wire harness inspections seems ok.would like some input on any common problems.I will probably be writing.otherwise it operates fine,other than no sound.Ran out of time today.Jukebox is in very nice condition.this has the central control computer.serial number 1001040. Jukebox was given loaded with 45's.I will post some pics.Need info on parts and wire scematics.spend some time tommorrow testing the circuits for proper voltage,resistance,continuity. :blah:
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If the volume control is not hooked up there will be no sound. Same if the speakers and/or output transformer assembly is not plugged in.
If the external remote volume control is not hooked up, then you need to connect the machine's regular volume control which sticks out the back wall of the machine on the outside. Here is how that should be wired:
Red wire to "VOL" terminal and black wire to "COM" terminal on the terminal strip.
Manuals are available to purchase from www.victoryglass.com
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Ok I found two wires tied off to the side under the strip.Must of missed them.I will trace them back to make sure these are for the volume control.thanks
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Anyone know the pinout for the external speaker setup on an AMI Disco 200 (R-83) ?
And how they connect to the terminal strips inside ?
Specifically talking about the seven wires coming from the transformer unit up to the terminal strips.
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Hi Kevin,
Long time no hear.
What info do you need on R-83 Disco, is it the output package cable information you need or the connections above the amplifier compartment door?
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk
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Probably a combination of both.
I'm trying to reconnect the external speaker wire harness that goes from the output package to the compartment door that has the terminal strips on it.
There's seven wires and they all have spade terminals on the ends that plug into the terminal strips on the compartment door above where the amplifier would be.
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I have a rowe 200 disco, ran good for 2 days after I purchased it, left the unit on both days..when I went out to work on it the slection said, select a new record..it would do nothing! Record spins,if I manually turn the gears and the needle sets down it plays..wont do anything after that..I have to rotate the gears again to put the record back...any ideas? I think I can troubleshoot with help here and not have to pay $70.00 an hour..not cheap but could run into money I don't have.Purchased a new manual on it..diagrams,trouble shooting, etc. I know nothing of boards,diodes..etc..I am trying process of elimination...can anyone tell me what or which piece I should pull and get checked first? Thank you..it's a r-83 Disco 200, 1979 I think.
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The troubleshooting guide in the manual would be the first place to look since it covers many common problems/cures.
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I have a rowe wallbox hooked to and HCD-1 hideaway unit, I purchased a remote volume control. How do I wire the volume control into the HCD-1?
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This link shows you the wiring from the remote volume control to the terminal strip inside the jukebox or hideaway:
http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Jukebox/Rowe_AMI/Rowe_Volume_Controll_Wiring_1968_to_Current.pdf
If you have the "Dual Channel" (dual mono) remote volume control you use 4 conductor wire to run between the remote and the juke. The normal remote volume control uses 3 conductor wire. Usually 22 gauge stranded cable is what I use.
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Hi Zabukie,
If your jukebox is a Rowe Ami R-83 Disco you will need to pull the following boards for testing & repair.
Memory Unit 301-07855
Mechanism Control Board 401-06905
Selector Logic 603-08060
We always test these as a set of boards when ever possible to avoide future problems.
These boards use cmos chips and can be damaged by static discharge.
Leave metal plates and the plastic covers in place when handling and sending away for repair.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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I have a Rowe R-83 Disco 200 JB and am looking for a replacement volume control (potentiometer) assembly. Does anyone have the specifications for this part? The part number in the repair manual is 2-01799-00. The numbers on the back of the pot are 3-06285-01 and R1378804. Radio Crack has a number of pots but I need the specs so I know what to purchase. Thanks.
Patrick
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Just measured mine and it is a 10K Ohm pot.
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That should be a 10k audio taper pot. Radio Shack # 271-1721 will work, but the bushing diameter is smaller.
Happ Controls sells the exact genuine Rowe replacement pot.
Happ # 30628501 is about $11.
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Thank you very much. Bought it last night and will install it today.
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Hey Ken, You've helped me so many times,I need your advise again.
I had to replace the control assembly on my rowe wallbox because the "rowelink" wasn't connecting with my HCD-1. When I plugged in the "new' control assembly the rowelink worked and I was able to program the songs by number from the wallbox to the HCD-1. Now the wallbox won't let me tpye in any numbers. I put the old control assembly back on to see what happens and although I still don't connect with the HCD-1 the number keys work fine. Can you help me?
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Sorry we never bought any wallboxes for our cd jukes. In fact the only wallboxes we had on our route were old Seeburg 200 selection models from the 1950's hooked up to a Seeburg LPC1 in a restaurant. That installation was in operation from 1960 to 2002!
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I have an HCD-I Rowe and cannot get any sound from the external speakers,I can put my ear to the speakers and hear the music very faintly. Am I wiring the speakers improperly to the output trans.? I replaced the amp recently,but could it still be that? The external speakers work fine (I wired them to my stereo.) What checks can I run?
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Hi Sprag256,
What is your amplifier number?
Have you connected the input correctly?
Have you connected the volume control correctly?
Is the long 13 pin jumper plug in place and is it the correct way round?
Post your replies or contact me directly.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk
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hello everyone.nice to meet you all
being new here,i,m giving this my best try to do it right
i,m looking for help with a rowe r-93 jukebox
this one plays 45 ,s and cd.
all the sudden the outside selection button display is not lit.looking further i,ve found the computer control display not lit either,there is a lite lit for the 8 volts on the computer control.
your help would be appreciated.thanks!
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Hello speck7,
I would check out the connection pins out on the pcb on the power supply for dry joints (cold joints in the USA) the long connector that comes from the transformer may be the problem area.
If the above is ok then check out the other boards in the jukebox.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk
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thanks for the help.
i,ve checked those pins and all seems ok with the power supply.all the lights there indicate voltages.i saw no signs of burnt or bad contacts.
could the computer be the trouble?what would you check for on that.thanks
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Hello Speck7,
If you put the service switch into service does the display give any error messages?
Have you checked the display board for dry joints to the connection pins?
You have not said but does the Mechanism (carousel) scan round and then stop when you switch the jukebox on?
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk
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hello ami-man
when i put it into service there are no messages or any lights lit on the ccc computer display at all.just that 8 volt light is lit.i,ve checked all the joints/pins with an ohm meter to be sure they were contacting on the ccc computer,they checked ok.when i tried to scan the mechanism,nothing,it doesnt move.i also noticed the mechanism computer looks dead.no lights nothing.and the amp has no lights lit either when the machine was on.
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Hello Speck7,
I think now is the time to send in your boards to a professional for testing/repair.
If you are in the USA I would suggest Bruce Wentworth at www.abjukeboxrepair.com
or in the UK you could send your boards to me.
Alan Hood
Games Unlimited & Datex Systems
Units 4 & 5 Lion Park
New Street
Halfway
Sheffield
S20 3GH
UK
0114 247 0242 phone
0114 251 0727 fax
alan-hood@datex.co.uk
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hello alan
i found the ccc was the problem.its been Addressed and the box now plays.it seems the sound is about i,d say only at the half way or so point as far as how loud it plays.could it be the amp?i,ve checked the tone arm wiring and it appears to be ok.i,ve heard that many people say we should always replace those large capactors.do you agree?
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Hello Speck7,
I never change capacitors unless they are faulty. These large capacitors keep the DC voltage stable if you had a problem on them you would get some noise coming through the speakers usually buzzing.
Is the volume control connected and connected correctly?
What tappings are the phono speakers connected to on the output package?
E6 left and E6 right are the loudest outputs on the output package, usually you would connect the pink and violet cables to the E6 connections the black would normally go to E1 right.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk
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hi alan
checked and found each speaker wires were on left E5 right E6 and black to
right E1
moved them to F5/F6 and now theres like a loud hum that i didnt notice before that fades in and out with the sound now.
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Hello Speck7.
If you lift the tone arm so it stands upright (so the record is not playing) Is the hum still there?
If it is not then your problem will be with the styli or cartridge.
If the hum is still there then use a extension speaker with the phono speakers disconnected so you can test each side of the amplifier at the output package.
I would also test the outputs direct at the amplifier incase there is a problem with the output package.
Let us know how you get on with the testing.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Hi There,
I have a CMM1 Caddette it all works but the records stick/jump about half way through.
some are scatched but other look fine.
I have a new stylus to fit but it looks slightly different from the one fitted even though it is supposed to be the correct one.
I want to check the counter balance on the arm what is the best way to do that?
any advice gratefully received.
regards
dean
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Hi Dean,
If that stylus looks different then more than likely it will not be the correct one. It could be that the old one fitted is incorrect and this is why you are having problems.
Does the cartridge have a number on it? or does it just say Rowe Ami. If it says Rowe Ami it will be a M44C cartridge and will require a N44c stylus. It could have been fitted with the earlier M77 or the later M75 cartridges.
With regards to the balance of the arm to do it spot on you would require a sylus force gauge, these are available from around £10 to £50 for a digital gauge, check out google.
I would check out all the adjustments on the tone arm and transfer motor in your manual and set the mechanism up accordingly.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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hello alan.
heres an update on our last message.
i did just what you recommended with the tone arm cartridge.
the hum seems to have disappeared.i dont think it was the cartridge though,might had been how the wires inside ran around it.
the box plays now.the sound is ok.
it still does not seem to have the full volume.even when its turned all the way up.
you can hear the smaller speakers,but they are not loud.the records seem to play as if the singers are talking low.the bass is there but not screaming loud.i,d guess its like being turned up half way.
you know for a jukebox one would expect it to have the volume,punch to it.compairing this to my rockola model 450 and if i crank it all the way up,it screams !
this rowe r-94 just plays like as if i had my 450 turned half way up.
am i expecting something here that i shouldn't?
this is my first rowe jukebox.
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Hello Speck7,
One thing we have not touched on is the way the cartridge wires are conected to the cartridge.
Rowe Ami since around the mid 70's have achieved enhanced bass in a number of ways.
With the 64 watt R-2179A amplifier that had the same in phase output on both channels they inversed one side of the input. On the 130 watt amplifier that should be in your jukebox the output is inversed so the input must be in phase.
I suggest that you look at this.
If you have the R-93 manual look at page 2-24 it shows the the cartridge to amplifier wiring . It shows where the coloured wires should go to.
Please let us know how you get on.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk
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Hi,
I have just found out that the forum at www.jukeboxmadness.com is up and running.
Early days yet but in the past it was a great forum.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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That's the one that was hacked by the Russians a while back isn't it?
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Hi, Ken,
Yes it was. Pity that it was hacked it was a good site.
I see you have become a member of the jukebox madness forum.
They have a problem with the operation of the site at the moment but i am sure they will sort it out.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Hi,
The problems I had with the www.jukeboxmadness.com forum seem to have been rectified.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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hello again alan
heres what i found where we last spoke of this sound problem i,ve had.
i was chatting to a guy who was retired in the vending business and he suggested to use a 9volt battery to verify the speakers.i did just that and both the top door speakers were found to be blown.
imagine how that happened??
anyway found a set thru a local vender and now it plays just perfectly.
all the trouble i had to find something so small wrong.
but could had been much worst.
your help has taught me a lot that i didnt know,i want to thank you for that.
dave
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Hi Dave (speck7),
No problem, it is usually the simply things that are the trouble.
You will now know that it is best to test the outputs of both channels with a extension speaker if in doubt.
The bass speakers go across both channels and the mid/top range go across each channel and ground.
I would check out the cross over unit to make sure that none of the cables can short out (this may have happened before and blown the two speakers)
Glad to hear your jukebox is now up and running.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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I have a Rowe CD100A Jukebox. I just picked up an IR control kit. It has the control board, an IR receiver and the remote. It doesn't include any directions.
I'm guessing it can't be too hard to hook up. I think it's only got a couple of wires (I don't have it in hand, it's on it's way).
Does anyone know where I can get a copy of the instructions for this?
Thanks!
David
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If I remember correctly, there are two different infrared remote volume accessories out there. There's one for the conventional 250 watt amplifier and a different one for the 1000 watt Sound Studio models.
There's also a software setup to enable in the jukebox programming (mode 91).
I don't know what has to be done for installing it since I have never installed one. In the vast majority of jukebox installations I have done over the past 30 years, it's usually a hard wired remote volume control that I install. The other times the location was happy with just the built-in volume control on the back of the jukebox.
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Hi David,
Like Ken I have never used the infra red kit, the one you need is the Rowe Ami 21957501.
I assume that the board that comes with the kit must be connected into the volume control socket and into the CCC because the remote also allows selections to be made from it etc.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Hopefully I'll know more tomorrow if it's delivered. I've only seen a picture of it. It looks like, it has a connection to the IR receiver, a set of white/orange wires that most connect to the RoweLink on the CCC. Then two wires that probably go to the volume in place of the regular pot. The other most be power? I'll try and figure it out
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I contacted Rowe and they were kind enough to FAX me a copy of the installation / operation instructions. They didn't have a PDF available, so I made one and I'll post it here for anyone else that might ever need it. It's 16 pages but the size was too large to post here all as one file so I split it into 2 parts.
I was able to get it hooked up to my jukebox and it seems to work very well. Remote selections, volume, credit, cancel. I think the biggest problem with one of these is the initial price. I got mine (circuit board and remote) for $120. Before this, I had contacted a dsitributor and they wanted to sell me a new cirtcuit board only for $350.
So if you can find a decent one used, here are the instructions.
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Hi David,
The pdf's that you posted are not opening from here.
Can you please send them to alan-hood@datex.co.uk
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Are those links working for anyone else? I can get them by clicking on them. I just wondered if it's working for anyone else.
David
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Hey ami man.
Thanks for the help with my heritage rowe ami.
Heres where im at.
All working fine on all letters but only on numbers 8,9,and 0
numbers 1 to 7 the search unit continues to spin.
any help would be great
cheers
dean
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The links do NOT work for me either.
Here is what I get for each one:
Internet Explorer cannot display the webpage
Most likely causes:
You are not connected to the Internet.
The website is encountering problems.
There might be a typing error in the address.
What you can try:
Diagnose Connection Problems
More information
This problem can be caused by a variety of issues, including:
Internet connectivity has been lost.
The website is temporarily unavailable.
The Domain Name Server (DNS) is not reachable.
The Domain Name Server (DNS) does not have a listing for the website's domain.
If this is an HTTPS (secure) address, click Tools, click Internet Options, click Advanced, and check to be sure the SSL and TLS protocols are enabled under the security section.
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Hi David
I would like to thank you for sending me the pdf by email.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Hi Dean,
With regards to your selection problems on your Heritage.
I would check out the keyboard with a meter that the sitches are making and that the wiring is good to the Search Unit edge connector (check for alignment on this plug it is possible to be almost a pin out)
Clean the keyboard open relay contacts and the S1 & S2 contact on the search unit (use the taper of paper method for cleaning the contacts, not switch cleaner)
Please let us know how you get on.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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CD100 IR Remote Installation Instructions should now be available here:
http://arcarc.xmission.com/PDF_Jukebox/Rowe_AMI/Rowe_CD100_IR_Remote_Control.pdf
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hi ami man
new guy on the block :)
i want to hook up small external speakers to my new rowe cd 100 project
i have been working on,
jukebox has a 250 watt amp
do the external speakers have to be at least 125 watts each or can i go lower?
i dont' have any manuals for the jukebox
i converted the box to play mp3 that i will start a new tread about it
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I'm not a Rowe Expert by any means. Did you do a conversion yourself or did you use one of the adapters that replace the CD mechanism?
I did one of those and it connects to my iPod. I have the manuals at home, and I'm pretty sure there is a diagram and table where you put in all the speakers you have and then you have to have the wiring on the transformer correct for the load you have from your speakers.
I'll see what I can find to help you out.
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thank you
i just started a new topic on what i did to my jukebox
(my rowe cd 100 jukebox project)
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Hi jukejunkie,
With regards to the speakers to use on the amplifier the important thing is the impeadence of the extention speakers they must not be below 4 ohms.
You can use several on each channel series/parallel connected but overall the impeadence must be 4 ohms or higher to prevent damage to the amplifier.
Use the lower tapping on the output package to balance out the load.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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hi ami-man
i want to hook up my pair of old JBLs
they are 8 ohms and about 50 watts
my concern is is that i don't want my speakers blown
thanks
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Hi jukejunkie,
I would only use up to the E4 tappings. Here are the voltages on the output package for each tapping.
E1 0volts
E2 2volts
E3 4volts
E4 8volts
E5 10.65volts
E6 16volts
E7 21.3volts
Please let me know how you get on.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk
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I have an AMI Rowe R-87 jukebox and have no experience with servicing it, although I'm willing to try. It's worked flawlessly for the past 20+ years except for replacement of the power supply years ago. Recently it's had problems with the "0" button. All the other numbers work fine. You can push the "0" but it doesn't appear on the display and doesn't seem to register. I've tried to clean around the keypad with canned air, with no success. Sometimes the "0" WILL work. It could be coincidental, but it seems like it never works when you first power up the machine, but may work hours later if you leave it on. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated!
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Hello ssharp,
The problem will be more than likely be down to dry joints (cold joints in the USA) on the
button bank or on the pricing board (this is the board on the back of the jukebox with the clear plastic cover).
Remove the keyboard and pricing board and look for any cracking around the soldered connections and in the case of the button bank around the 0 switch. On the pricing board just check the top and botton connections.
As with all connectors when removing them from the board pull on the connector not on the cables.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk
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Thanks ami-man. I'll check this out and let you know what I find.
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Hi ssharp,
I look forward to your news.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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i did a pc conversion to my cd100 jukebox
and wondering if the cd mech parts worth anything
it didn't work before i took it out but is in mint condition
i think the board needs repair
it still has the original old style cd player in it
it shows 260000 plays
i really don't want to put the the whole unit on ebay and ship it
should i sell just the parts off of it?
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Hi jukejunkie,
People on Ebay sell the complete mechanism and the boards or split them into the parts.
In the UK the mechanisms sell for around £50.00 plus and the CCC's from £20.00.
On the mechanism the main parts are:-
Mechanism Control
Decoder Board
Laser Head
Opto Switch
Transfer motor
Spag assembly including drive motor
Gripper bow assembly
So it may be better to split the parts.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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How nice to find this on arcade controls! I see Ken Layton here, howdy Ken :)
Ok, I've got a Rowe R-3812A 50 watt stereo amp that's been acting a little off. The left channel seems to be just barely amplifying. If I turn the balance control all the way left I can hear music, but very faintly. All the way right, loud. Unplugged the phono cartridge jacks and swapped them, same thing happens so that eliminates the needle/cartridge from being the problem. So I pull the amp and pull out the driver boards. Not much to them and all solder joints look good. A quick check of the transistors on these driver boards shows good. There are 2 diodes on each board too and they check good. So I swap channels, since they seem identical and lo and behold the right channel now is the faint one. I expected that but since compnents seem fine on the drivers why am I getting no or little sound on one channel?
So I guess my question is where is the fault, if not the driver boards? Could it be the bottle cap transistors mounted on the big heatsink?
I can't even tell what they are as the seem to simply have a part number on them.
Help? :)
Cliffy
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Recap the electrolytics on the driver boards and on the preamp board.
All of the boards are old enough to need new electrolytics.
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Hi Cliffy,
Have you swopped over the driver locations to test if the problem is on the driver boards or the pre-amplifier?
If not do so.
If we were testing the amplifier we would put a signal into the driver boards to check them.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
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Hi Cliffy,
Have you swapped over the driver locations to test if the problem is on the driver boards or the pre-amplifier?
If not do so.
If we were testing the amplifier we would put a signal into the driver boards to check them.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
Alan I did indeed swap driver locations and thye problem moved. I'm going to try Ken's advice and recap the drivers and the pre-amp with new elctrolytics. I'll definetly report back with findings. Thanks to both of you for the advice.
Cliffy
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Hi Cliffy,
IF the fault moved then the problem is more than likely down to just one of the driver boards.
It is doubtfull that recapping will sort out your problems. Usually I would replace the caps on the main chassis if they were leaking or if there was a backgroup hum. These caps supply the DC to pre-amp and the driver boards.
I think you have dry joints on the driver board or problems with the bios resistors or some of the transistors.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Hi
I have just posted this before seeing your kind offers of help, but here goes. I have a rowe ami r91 golden that has been showing fault 19 for a while, it now does not play the record, merely picks it out of the magazine and puts it back again, and after 3-5 attempts shows error 39, any help would be appreciated
Mark
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Hi Mark,
I will look at the error codes when I get back to work on Monday.
Some codes stop the operation of the jukebox untill they are reset.
Do you have a manual? if so check out the section that describes the errors and the section on resetting errors.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Hi Mark,
Error code 19 :- Keyboard switch 6 always closed.
The computor thinks that this switch is always closed this could be down to:-
A. A defective computor
B. A defective Digitai Display
C. A defective Keyboard
D. A short in the Computor-to-Display harness
E. A short in the Display-to-Keyboard harness.
Error code 39:-
Transfercycle started, cam moved off inner cam switch, and Outer Cam Switch record placed on turntable;however, the signal stayed high (quiescent) for longer than 30 seconds. This error will cause phonograph to shut down until power is turned off and turned back on. Turn power on and refer to " Transfer starts and runs continuously" in Trouble colume of MODULAR TROUBLESHOOTING CHARTS.
The Chart states possible causes:-
A. Wiring to Outer Cam Switch
B. Outer Cam Switch
C. Central Control Computer
D. Wiring from CCC to Mech Control
E. Mech Control Board
F. InnerCam Sw. N.O Contact shorted to common
Open Circuit-Outer Cam Sw. Common
I find these switches spade connections can short out.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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I've got a CD100 and I just picked up a Wallbox for it CD-WB. The wiring strip in the wallbox has the following connections:
1) AC Power
2) AC Com
3) L Ch
4) R Ch
5) Audio Com
6) Rowelink A
7) Rowelink A
8) Rowelink B
9) Rowelink B
3-5 seem easy.
I think I can use 6, 8 to connect to the Rowelink (orange / white wiring)
My question is on the AC. The wallbox, I believe runs on 28vac. However, there is a transformer in the wallbox, which appears to have to wire inputs, then it outputs a common, and 2 others, that can be combined to have 28vac or 6vac. So I would then assume it isn't 28vac on the input side.
So do I wire this up for 1-2 as 110vac? Or do I need to step it down to 28vac for 1-2? Or am I complete wrong? I don't see any 28vac in the CD100 itself. Maybe it needs an additional transformer?
Anyone have a wiring diagram for this setup? I can't find it in any of my CD100 manuals.
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Well I found my own answer. It's 28vac to the wallbox from the CD100. There is 28vac in the CD100. I'm not sure if I found the best place to tap it, but it must have been used to operate the CD player. My CD mech has been replaced by a an ipod conversion (cdadapter.com) so the wires were free.
Hooked them up to the wallbox and it works great!
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Rowe issued seperate manuals for each model of wallbox. They can be purchased from your local authorized Rowe distributor.
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Hi MrD,
Glad to see that you worked it out.
You can get the 28 volts from a number of places in the jukebox.
On the power supply the 28 volt ac connections are pins 5 & 6 with common connections 7, 8 & 9. The 28 volt ac is protected by a 5 amp breaker.
I would put an inline fuse in the wiring to the wallbox (3 or 4 amp should be ok) this would keep the jukebox going if you had a problem on the wallboxes. The interfaces on the earlier jukeboxes had a fuse in the data line of 500ma to protect the CCC incase the cable was cut to the wallbox (wallboxes).
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
-
Hi,
Sorry but I am on holiday from this evening until the 3rd of August.
If you post a message I will reply on my return.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
-
Hi,
I have been back from holiday a week, it feels as if I was never away.
It must have been the wettest July/August in the Lake District we have had.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
-
Hi,
Sorry I am away on holiday from today untill 19th October.
If you post a message or email me at alan-hood@datex.co.uk I will reply on my return.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Hello all! New to jukes, but I've been collecting arcade games and such for a while. Anyway, I have a Rowe AMI CD100E, and I just ordered the service manual online. I picked it up this last weekend at an arcade auction for $150, and it was non-functional when I got it. I managed to get it running, and get the arm all lined up. Now, if I turn the levers which operate the switches on the left side of the transport mechanism, I can get it to go to the right CD, pick it up and play.
The catch is this. It's making a "whirring" sound from what appears to be inside the little grey "gear box". Maybe the motor's turning, but there's a problem with the gears inside. I can turn it manually as described above, but it doesn't turn the arm on it's own. I am going to consult the manual when it comes, but I wanted to poll the group to see if this was a common thing, and what to look for when I disassemble it.
Thanks for reading!
JFab
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There are two motors on the mechanism.
One rotates the cd magazine ("basket" ) and has a solenoid on the assembly along with a big plastic gear called the "sprag" gear.
The other motor runs the "gripper" which operates the linkages which actually grab the cd and flip it down onto the player. It also picks it up and puts it back in the magazine. This assembly has a plastic cam which operates two microswitches. A frequent problem is the tiny gears in it's gearbox. You might be able to simply relubricate the shafts in it and the thrusting clutch. Sometimes there will be a gear that breaks loose of it's shaft.
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The other motor runs the "gripper" which operates the linkages which actually grab the cd and flip it down onto the player. It also picks it up and puts it back in the magazine. This assembly has a plastic cam which operates two microswitches. A frequent problem is the tiny gears in it's gearbox. You might be able to simply relubricate the shafts in it and the thrusting clutch. Sometimes there will be a gear that breaks loose of it's shaft.
Yes, this would be the "gripper" motor. The plastic cam and microswitches are working properly, but not turning on it's own. I an feel the shaft which comes out of the left hand side near the cam spinning when it is in "switch disc mode", so I am guessing the tiny gears inside the gearbox are the culprits as you suggest. I will have to remove the assembly and take a look inside. Thank you for the advice, Ken! I will let you know what I find out tomorrow!
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If you determine that motor is bad and can't be repaired, it is available to purchase from any Rowe distributor's parts department. Rowe does not sell direct to end users.
Out of about 100 Rowe cd jukeboxes I've worked on over the years, I've had about three of those motors go bad. Everytime it was the gears in the gearbox which had broken.
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Thanks again, Ken. I have read a lot of your posts, and you're the :burgerking:.
:) Are the gears difficult to track down? Will I have to replace the entire gearbox if I cannot buy the gears?
I am cracking it open later this evening, if all goes well. Thanks again.
JFab
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I don't know about finding replacement gears. Our machines that had the motor problems were on location. The boss didn't want the motor half-assed repaired. We replaced the entire motor assembly since we didn't want any more problems with that motor. That got the juke back in operation quickly. Our local distributor, Mountain Coin, stocked the motor and we simply drove there (about 45 miles from us) and bought it at their parts counter.
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Well, it seems that the best thing to do might be just to replace the whole motor, like you did. Even though this is for home use, I don't want a "half-assed" fix either. Dependability is important to me!
Would you happen to know the part number? My manual still hasn't arrived, and I was going to see if I could search for the part online. A&B has one, but it looks physically like it's in far worse condition than the one I already have!
Thanks again, Ken.
JFab
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I have a CD-100A manual, but it's stored at a friend's house since I'm out of room here. Plus my car is conked out with a bum engine.
I think the whole CD-100 series uses the same gripper motor and they are available brand new at all Rowe distributors. If I recall, they are around $100.
-
Hi- I have an AMI R85 that I have restored, but when it's on, it has a lot of background noise coming through the speakers. Is there an adjustment I can make to reduce this noise?
Thank you
-
Either the "mute" switch on the mechanism is broken/disconnected or you have a problem with the mute circuit in the amplifier itself.
-
Where would I find the mute switch?
-
The mute switch is one of the two microswitches operated by that plastic cam on the gripper motor assembly.
-
Hi,
would this be the place to post a question on the operation of a 1951 AMI D-80? For some reason the phono junction box relay will not energize when the machine is at rest, and therefore the turntable and amp are powered and the machine will not respond to any DC voltage commands. I have checked all points on the reversing and selection relays, starting switches etc, and am thinking that the phono junction box relay itself may be the problem. When I close the switch manually, the power is cut to the turntable and amp. Is there any way to test this relay?
Thanks,
Chris
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Hi Chris,
I think you may be better off posting your question to the www.phonoland.com (http://www.phonoland.com) and www.jukeboxmadness.com (http://www.jukeboxmadness.com) forums.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
-
Thanks, I appreciate the the advice
-
Hi Chris,
Glad to see that with advice from Ron Rich on the phonoland forum you were able to get your jukebox working again.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
-
Hello,I'm new here.
I'm working on an R85 starlight and soon a K model.
Could you tell me the rail voltages of the 125 watt amp in the R85?
thanks
Paul
-
Hi Paul,
The power rails are + & - 36 volts on the 125 watt amplifier used on the R-85.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
-
I apologise for the belated response to your answer AMi Man.
The reason I wanted to know the voltages is that after replacing the amp boards I will end up with the old ones and I thought I'd make a digital jukebox with the Ami sound.
On the R85 I am trying to use a computer with a small touchscreen as well as the analogue record changer.I have routed the computer audio output into the phono input on the preamp via a 40dB and inverse RIAA filter.
Unfortunately there is no sound.What signal do I have to supply to get it working?
thankyou
Paul
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I got the computer playing by holding down the outer cam switch.I'll make up a couple of switches to change from records to computer.
What I really need is circuit diagrams and pinouts for the amp and preamp boards.
I have the service manual,but it's only of partial help.Do you know where these can be obtained?
thanks
Paul
PS: The new preamp board has a five pin aux output as opposed to the three pin on the old board.Do you know what these pins are for?
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The R85 Field Service & Parts Manual should have schematics of the amplifier and all it's boards. There should also be a wiring harness diagram in there of the whole machine. The manual should also state the correct number of the amplifier to be used in that model jukebox.
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I have the Field Service and Parts Catalog Part No 2-18226-02,Third Edition,March 1981.
Inside it says:
"A separate publication,OPERATION SEQUENCE AND SCHEMATICS,elaborates to provide information for the repair of circuit boards and replacement of electronic components.The information and procedures are intended for an ADVANCED LEVEL OF MAINTENANCE where test equipment is available and service personnel have had electronics training.This publication is available from your distributor.Please order Part No. 3-65355-06.
This or similar is what I want.
thanks
Paul
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I should have added my service manual and parts catalog has good schematics in the mechanical sections,but the barest outlines in the amplifier section.
Are the new manuals from Victory Glass better in this regard?
thanks
Paul
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# 3-65355-06 SHOP SERVICE MANUAL is what you need. This will be in a brown plastic 3 ring binder hot stamped with the Rowe logo. Approx 80 double sided 11" by 17" pages throughout and they are not folded. The binder is actually 11 by 17 in size. This manual is NOT available as a reproduction. It has to be ordered from the parts department of any Rowe jukebox distributor. Just give them the part number.
The SHOP manual is different than the Field Service manuals. I simply wasn't aware that Rowe had issued a shop manual for the R85. You might call Victory Glass and ask them if they have the SHOP manual (give them the part number), but I don't think they will have it.
The SHOP manuals are very expensive. I know we paid over $100 each for the R89 and R90 SHOP manuals I have.
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Thank you very much.I will pursue this.It's a bit difficult repairing boards and incorporating them into different setups without the circuit diagrams;also my 57 year old eyes have great difficulty in reading small components.
Paul
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Hi Paul,
Know what you mean with regards to the eyes, when I work on boards I use my inspection lamps to light and magnify, without them I would have to put the tools down.
It sounds as if the mute is the problem, pull out the mute plug.
What is the digital input in millivolts? I would suggest that you do not plug into the phono input but plug into the auxiliary input. It is next to the volume connection.
The shop manual you need covers the CTI-2, CTI-3, R-84, R-85, R-86, R-87, RI-3, RI-4, RI-5 and the HML (hideaway). The part number for the manual is Rowe Ami 3-65355-07.
One of the above was on Ebay a few weeks ago so keep checking it out, I doubt if Rowe Ami will still stock them.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk
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Here are examples of the factory original copyrighted Rowe Shop Manuals that I own. These were never intended to be included with the jukebox. They were used when the jukebox or it's circuit boards were brought to the shop. The service department of most Rowe distributors usually had these manuals in order to service the machines brought in for repairs.
This particular manual is 80 double sided pages long. All pages are full size 11" by 17" and are not folded. The last couple of pages has a cross reference guide to Rowe's part numbers and generic/NTE cross references for the semiconductors.
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I have 500W floodlights,super bright LED's,and magnifying gear everywhere;including on my head,but surface mount technology is giving me a hard time.
This is my first jukebox and has been an enjoyable learning experience especially the inverted input on one channel.
It came together over the weekend and both vinyl and computer inputs sound great.i have mounted a switch to unmute for the computer or restore to normal for the record changer.
I tried using the aux. inputs but there was no volume control and I didn't like the sound.I tried both amp and preamp inputs(this box has the aux. board above the preamp).I tried both a 60dB and a 40dB attenuator with an inverse RIAA filter-60dB was way too soft;40dB sounds great.Input is 8mV which should be pretty close to Shure MM cartridge as the output volumes are similar.
I have loaded heaps of songs and with the touch screen I think you have the best of both worlds.
Next is a K model(for my sister Kay).I appreciate the good design of these jukeboxes and am glad I've gotten into AMI's and Rowe's instead of their competitors.Plus,of course,the sound.
thanks again
Paul
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Hi Paul,
At 8 mv then you picked the correct input route.
The input on that amplifier is not inverted but the output is.
On the earlier 64 watt 2179A amplifier the output was the same so on the jukebox models it was fitted on they inverted one side of the input on the cartridge. Most of the models were from the R-74 through to the R-82.
Both methods provide enhanced bass.
The next project will be different from going from a jukebox that is controlled from a CCC with less than an handfull of adjustments to one that uses relays and has many adjustments and far too many moving parts.
Follow the manuals to the letter re adjustments and only lubricate where it says and by the amount it says. Rowe Ami jukeboxes are almost run dry.
Most of my time is taken up on repairs by washing the lubrication off and starting from scratch.
Best of luck and get in touch if you need advice.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk
-
Hello Again,
My old pre-amp board is Part No 6-08552-01
My delivered pre-amp board is Part No 60792505
It has a 5 pin aux. output;can you tell me the pinnout?(3 pin on aux. board marked yellow/black/green).
It has an extra connector P8;what is this for?(5 pin connector with only 4 pins)
Nearbye it has a pot R102 that is meant to extend through the amp cabinet;what is this for?
Everything else seems the same.
I bought this along with the 2 driver boards from the USA (I,m in Australia),and I want to use it if I can.
No luck finding a shop manual so far.Everything was working beautifully last night and I was congratulating myself, when the sound faded,there were noises like amplified tearing fabric and now no sound.
Methinks I did a lousy job fitting new power transistors.
I am checking through everything once again.
thanks for any help
Paul
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Hi Paul,
The aux connection is as follows:-
Pin 1. input left channel (from cd or tape)
Pin 2. output left channel (could go to slave amp)
Pin 3. common (ground)
Pin 4. output right channel (could go to slave amp)
Pin 5. input right channel (from cd or tape)
Connection P8 is the microphone input connector
Pin 1. input
Pin 2. Control
Pin 3. +12.5 volts
Pin 4. common (ground)
The pot is for controlling the mic over the music on my drawing this pot is marked up as R107 and is 10K
One thing more when using this pre amp the the long 13 pin molex that bridges the input and output stages needs another link between pin 2 and 7 (this is normaly a blue wire the other 3 are white)
Sorry to here about tansistors.
If you are in Australia have you delt with records4jukes from Greater Hobart, TAS, Australia. Here is a Ebay number so you can check them out. 280416706176
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
-
Thanks for the comprehensive reply.
I have dealt with the Hobart company under the name "Flamingo Records."
I gave them a ring and they are having a hunt through their stock for me.
Once again thank you for your support.
Paul Curtis
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Well we have sound again but now the bottom row of numbers on the keyboard doesn't work.
When I removed it there were scorch marks around the number six solder pads.I suppose if you had a thirty year old car it would need a lot of replacements too.Actually I have a forty year old Norton that I'm always working on.
Paul
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Hi Paul,
Check out the Pricing Board on the rear of the jukebox it is next to the amplifier compartment. The top and bottom connections are prone to dry joints (cold joints USA).
If you regard this board as just a large connector if there are dry joints on here it causes all sorts of problems because all lines of data come through here.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
-
A minor question-This R85 was used by a rental company,which mounted their own remote controls including a single gang 10k ohm pot for volume.With the 2 wire set-up the bottom half of the pot isn't used.Are there any suggestions for improving this variable resistance?Does it allow for full volume?
thanks
Paul
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Hi Paul,
The 10k log pot is the correct control to use. You can use two controls for independent control of the two channels.
This was used in sites where the sound was mono and used to control two rooms etc.
One channel controls to jukebox plus extension speakers in one room and the other room is controled independently.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
-
Hey Ami-man
I have a rowe R-91 that is missing the OBA-2 control I have access to a Oba-2 #61038904. Would this OBA work in my Juke?
Thanks Sarge74
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Great news;I got an email from Flamingo records.He has dug out his Workshop Manuals which he no longer uses and is selling me his copy.
The jukebox now has a pair of Behringer B210D powered speakers sitting on wall brackets for sound reinforcement.
They'll have no trouble supplying music to their parties.When I calculated building my own compared to buying, these won out,especially as I found a shop that would give me 20% off.
The sound of the juke and the speakers complement each other,and you only need setup for the volume you want.
Thanks for the help.
Paul
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Hi Sarge74,
I am not sure on this in the UK we have no need for the stacker.
The OBA fitted in the R91 would have been the 65056512 or was available as a kit including the control unit etc as 65057022.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
-
I have a Rowe Ami R-88 that is in ned of adjustment. When the magazine rotates and stops, it doesn't stop immediately. It DOES stop at the correct position, but then rotates a little past ... sometimes 2 or 3 positions. The magazine motor does stop at the right spot, but it seems like the brakes on the magazine don't work!
How do I adjust this?
Jon
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I have a Rowe Ami R-88 that is in ned of adjustment. When the magazine rotates and stops, it doesn't stop immediately. It DOES stop at the correct position, but then rotates a little past ... sometimes 2 or 3 positions. The magazine motor does stop at the right spot, but it seems like the brakes on the magazine don't work!
How do I adjust this?
Jon
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Hi Jon,
More than likely you will have a problem with the Sprag Assembly (40721901)
It could be that the pawl on the sprag lever assembly is not adjusted correctly or may be that the Sprag Wheel is damaged (these can wear out with the teeth worn through) or the stem bushing may have rotted away (this can happen if the mechanism is oiled in this area).
I suggest you stip this part of the mechanism down and check the above, if you do not have a manual I suggest that you get one.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
-
I have seen both the sprag gear and the sprag gear stem rubber bushings go bad at the same time. That allows way too much "slop" in the assembly.
-
Hi Ken,
Yes we have all seen the problems on the wear of all these plastic parts used by most jukebox manufacturers in the past and present.
With regards to stem bushings, I contacted Happ/Suzo last week they had three in stock (not sets just 3) also they no longer do the turntable drive belts.
I know Bruce Wentworth has some but you have to buy the sprag wheel as well
It looks as if Happ/Suzo are dropping a lot of jukebox parts. Bad news for end users.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
-
Hi guys,
My CD 100E quit playing CDs the other day. It seems to think it's playing CDs (putting down the right CD and spinning it) but no sound. I re-initialized just to see if that would help. Now it's playing CDs but at a volume so low, only a dog could enjoy it! The external volume control has no effect.
Does this sound like anything common? I have the manual but thought I'd ask the experts first!
Thanks,
Seth
-
Hi Seth,
You do not mention which CDM Laser disk is fitted. CDM3, CDM4, CDM12 or CD Pro.
More than likely there will be a dry joint (cold joint in the USA) on the Mech Control/Decoder.
Check that the phono connections are ok on the above and the amplifier.
You could check the amplifier by pluging in a CD player into the amplifier to test it.
Get backto us with more information or when you have tested the amplifier with another source.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
-
Thanks Alan,
I got home late last night so I didn't get a chance to get under the hood to check it out. Offhand I don't know which CDM laser disc I have. But I'll check it out and get back soon!
Thanks,
Seth
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GREAT NEWS! I'm up and running again! Ahh, it feels good.
I had a loose connection on the transformer. It was so simple, I just needed to look to the right place. I've got a LOT to learn about this machine. I've only had it for two months now, so I'm just learning my way around it.
Thanks for your help, Alan! I did check and I have a CDM 12. But I don't know what that means or if it's good or bad!
But I was back to rocking last night!!!
Thanks,
Seth
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Hi Seth,
Glad to hear you are up and running, once you have a jukebox it is hard to go back to silence.
The CDM12 should be ok, it is among the later CD units. Is the mechanism (carousel) the newer open type or the older type with separators between each CD.
If it is the open type then you need to do nothing. This newer type and the conversion kit was introduced by Rowe Ami to stop the CD's from being damaged by poor handling, the CDs scratched on the separator wires causing mis reads of the CD's.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
-
Hi,
For the past 15 years Ive had a Rowe Disco 200 and has been working fine,but for a year now has started repeating records. If left, it will play the same song over and over and only by switching off or clearing memory will it move on, but even then it sticks to playing the same selected song.
Sometimes after machine has been on for an hour or so the normal selection continues, just seems very random. Tried changing and unplugging boards but nothing seems to improve it. Is there a certain place I should be looking?
Regards
Rob
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Hi Rob,
Does the jukebox select the records you select as well as this stuck selection?
If the above is true then the problem is a memory fault within the LSI (custom chip) in the Memory Unit (located on the right hand side of the carousel)
If you are in the USA you will need to send your Memory Unit to Bruce Wentworth for repair. If you are in Europe send in the following boards to me in the UK.
Memory Unit
Selector Logic
Mechanism Control Unit
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk
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Hi Alan,
My inlaws have just bought a R-91 and when the jukebox is powered up the display comes up ERR4 and stays up for a few seconds but it plays ok, i dont know if this is related but also the coin mechanism seems to get confused alot when you put a pound in it sometimes gives 1 credit and other times 3 or 4 but never the right amount, this isn't a major problem as you can keep putting money get it to work, I'm trying to get a service manual for it so i can set it to freeplay
Thanks ,Emlyn
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I think i've found the problem now it seems err4 relates to the Control Computer battery has failed that also explains the incorrect credits as i've found that the jukebox resets to factory presets which is $1.00 for 2 credits,
Can the Battery be replaced or am i going to have to source a second hand/exchange Central Control Computer
-
Hello Emlyn,
Yes the battery can be replaced, you should be able to locate the correct 3 volt lithium battery (Varta is a good make). You will however need to set up the CCC after replacing the battery, so that manual is a must, any of the manuals will do from a R-89 to R-93.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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I have a question about a Rowe R-89.
I am attempting to convert this machine into an mp3 jukebox and I was wanting to use the original amp/speakers/controls.
Could anyone provide some insight on connecting the output from my computer to the amp?
Any help would be appreciated.
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I think you would need something like this:
http://www.cdadapter.com/inv-riaa.htm (http://www.cdadapter.com/inv-riaa.htm)
It get's the line outputs correct. You just connect one end where the wiring went to phonograph and the other to your soundcard.
I had an R90 and R92 - they both had RCA inputs into the amp itself (they were combos - vinyl and CD player in the same box). Not sure on a R89. I keep meaning to put up some pictures of the CD connections to the CCC (in a combo unit). I documented it all someplace, and since have gotten rid of the jukebox.
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I have a Rowe R89 that I am parting out. I have the record mech intact and it is working. However, when the tonearm comes over to the record it seems to be not making good contact with the record. At least not enough to play correctly.
Can the tonearm be adjusted or is this part of a larger problem? I can hear a "scratchy" sound from the record, but it seems to be playing the same thing repeatedly. I have tried it with different records and get the same results.
Since I will be listing the unit on an auction site, I want to be able to indicate any issue it may be having or complete any slight repairs that it may need.
Thanks in advance!!
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Hi bushjc,
The problem on your mechanism (carousel) will more than likely be down to a broken tone arm cam, styli/cartridge replacement or the tone arm cable catching somewhere on the mechanism.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Hi Alan,
Thanks for your reply re 2nd June, suggesting the memory board may be responsible for repeating records. Im in the UK, Sussex and it may be Il need to send the board to you. A couple of things regarding the credit computer panel on the back wall, all the small white switches are selected as off and the bottom two wires going in on the connector block when moved make the `record playing/your selection` lights flicker on the front panel.Would either of these have an effect on repeat play?
Regards
rob
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Hello Rob,
The credit board should not have an effect on the problem you are having.
I would however send it in with the other three boards as per my last message in order to check this board for dry joints. When the Selector logic board is put into test the jukebox is set to free play.
Here are my details for sending in the boards for testing/repair.
Alan Hood
Games Unlimited & Datex Systems
Units 4 & 5 Lion Park
New Street
Halfway
Sheffield
S20 3GH
0114 247 0242/0114 247 4104 phone
0114 251 0727 fax
alan-hood@datex.co.uk
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[/b]Hello I have a R1-5 Romantica.it has a problem as well with the pick up arm.it`s not putting down tracking and lifting to back after playing.It docent release from the mech i`ve, looked at the mechanism and cant see any thing obvious.Please could you help.the changer was working when i picked it up.i think it needs a good service as it seems a bit clunky.Norman Manchester UK.
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Hello Norman,
With regards to your recent purchase of your RI-5 Romantica I suggest you contact me off of line in order to sort out your problem.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
Games Unlimited & Datex Systems
Units 4 & 5 Lion Park
New Street
Halfway
Sheffield
S20 3GH
0114 247 0242 phone
0114 251 0727 fax
alan-hood@datex.co.uk
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Hi, I'm hoping that AMI MAN can help me out with this.. I have a ROWE AMI jukebox that I bought for my home, it worked good for a while but then started skipping in the middle of songs, and now just says "out of order". When you turn it off and then back on it will say check sum = c100, ram test passed and then will display "free" for a few minutes and will play music,usually skipping, but after a couple minutes will change over to "out of order" and wont work at all. when going into sevice mode it displays "errors exist"....after fiddling with it a little myself I am able to see through going to service mode/status/error history I get an error of "A ERR 05-63 01" sometimes the last two numbers are different but I believe that is just a count of how many times that error occurred... I am able to clear errors and have the machine display "service mode" when switched to service mode instead of "errors exist"... I can then play music but only for a short period of time then the song cuts out and eventually just stops playing all together. Please if anyone knows what I can do to fix this issue I could really use some help... I have already paid a man $100 just to come to my house and basically tell me to clean the cd's and its probably because my hardware is old... I really love my jukebox and wish it would work again so I can enjoy it again. Help!
-Jessica
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Hello Jessica,
Do you have a manual for the jukebox? if not I suugest that you get one.
You need to clear all the old errors, some errors stop the jukebox from playing other errors when the jukebox is switched off will let the jukebox go back into operation.
The error codes you talk about relate to communication between the CCC and the Mechanism Contol unit, you may have dry joints (cold joints in the USA) to the connection pins on the boards or on the power regulators on the decoder.
to clear errors from memory do the following:-
1. Enter SERVICE mode (shows ERRORS EXIST)
2. Press 8. (shows STATUS)
3. Press 1. (shows CLEAR ERRORS)
4. Press POPULAR. (shows CLEAR ERRORS it will blink and then reappear)
Switch sevice switch off and try to play a number of sellections.
Rgards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Alan,
Thank you for your reply, I do have a manual for this jukebox. I have cleared the errors before, and it will work for a short period of time after doing so, generally it doesnt get through one song before cutting out. Once it stops playing it continues to display "free" but will no longer play even if you put in a new selection. Also every couple of minutes it says "check sum = c100", "ram test passed" and then eventually just switches over to "out of order". When entering service mode after this happens and going to error history i get error codes of 05-63-05 from that error code i pressed reset 9(toggle/next) and it says "start21 57 11/02", reset 9 again then brings me to "end 00 00 00/00" I dont know what those mean.
the "cold joints" problem you spoke of, is that something that can be fixed?
thank you for your time
Jessica.
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Hello Jessica,
I assume that you are in the USA, if that is the case I suggest that you get in touch with Bruce Wentworth in the USA. He can test/repair your CCC and Mechanism Control Board.
Just search on google for Bruce Wentworth Jukebox.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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thank you for your help!
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Hey Alan,
I have a Rowe-Ami R-91 showing error code 1. When I reset the codes and put the service switch back to on it immediately throws the code again. Any help?
Thanks Steve
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Hi Steve,
The error code 1 on the R-89 to R-94 CCC can be down to static discharge or a low battery.
You need to check out the battery voltage on the CCC battery B1 without any power to the jukebox. the battery voltage should be 3 volts.
Replace the battery if lower than 3 volts. Put the jukebox into Service and enter into programing mode, if the factory settings are ok push POPULAR key, key 2, key 5 and the POPULAR again.
Swith off and put back into service. you may have to clear the error log.
If the CCC returns back into the programing mode without putting in a code you will have to replace the CCC.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Hi Alan
I have ongoing amp problems on a r91, no sound out. Looking into it I have replaced 2 blown output transistors which hasn't cured it. I have just checked the Z1 diodes on the heatsink and these look to be blown, can I test these as a normal diode with forward and reverse checks using a DMM?
book says they are STB 568's can't find these in the UK on the net is there a modern equivalent?
Thanks
Ron
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Hello Ron,
You have been on this fault for some time, changing transistors altering bias etc.
I think you now need to send this into someone for a professional repair.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Hi Alan
Amp problem is now sorted, the Voltage regulator change on the pre-amp board sorted it out. Strangely I found through the manual wiring that the common recommended to use for the volume control (which is attached to a terminal on the amp compartment cover) is connected eventually to common through the mute plug on the amp. This means that if you are chasing a no sound problem and disconnect the plug to make sure the mute circuit isn't causing your issue then you lose the volume control, don't know why they didn't pick up a differnt common for the vol control. Anyway all is now working, it was a combination of 2 blown output transistors and s defective VR on the pre-amp board. Thanks for your help, it makes a big difference knowing that there is someone of your experience to turn to.
Regards
Ron
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Hi to all , just found out about this forum from the ami man as I had a Rowe r15 Romantica jukebox for sale on eBay and Alan gave us some info on it I sold it but the buyer has rung to say it's making a screeching sound I wondered if any one else has had the same problem so I can tell him what the problem could be ,will appreciate any help on the matter Regards to all .
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Hi all,
I am new to this forum and need a little help on my AMI R92. The lamp controller assy 40821201 seems to have the three output transistors blown, they measure shorted with an ohmmeter. Does anyone know what a part number would be for a replacement? They are marked 1S28S. All my lights are on no matter where the switch is at. I think they all got blown because there are bad solder joints on the input AC power plug. Also the phono cartridge is bad, only one side works. It is an M44-7 Shure, is there a better replacement? Thanks for any help you can give.
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Hello whymejake,
Sorry you did not give your name,
The M44-7 cartridge is the best one for the job and nearest you will get to the original M44C, I would swop round the phono input to see if the problem is with the amp rather than the cartridge (it is rare that these go).
There is a lamp controller on Ebay but it is listed as a controller for a Rock Ola, it is for auction in the UK (the seller is listed as 1942jrc)
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Hello whymejake,
Sorry you did not give your name,
The M44-7 cartridge is the best one for the job and nearest you will get to the original M44C, I would swop round the phono input to see if the problem is with the amp rather than the cartridge (it is rare that these go).
There is a lamp controller on Ebay but it is listed as a controller for a Rock Ola, it is for auction in the UK (the seller is listed as 1942jrc)
Regards
Alan Hood
Alan,
Thanks for the information. I did swap the connector and then I would get the other speaker to work. I ohmed the wires from the amp all the way to the cartridge and they were good. Ohming out the cartridge was kind of hit and miss, sometimes I could get continuity and then not. A local dealer says he has an M51 that should work but he can't find a cross reference for those transistors. I am an electronic tech so I know what I am doing. I would prefer to replace the 3 bad transistors if anyone can tell me what the real world number is for them. Thanks,
Alan Berends
ami-man
UK
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Rowe Ami R86 problems.
Hello all. I've just discovered this forum and hope someone can help me.
I've got a R87 Jukebox and that is fine. It's been ultra reliable for years now apart from the odd turntable mech failing.
What my problem is, I've just got hold of a R86 jukebox that appears to be complete with the exception of the central control computer and the turntable mech missing. So I plugged in a spare working mech that I happened to have and fitted the ccc off my R87. The box fires up fine, all the lights working etc. When I select a record, that inputs fine, the carousel turns and turns and turns and turns! It won't stop turning and select the record. Anybody pin point me to what may be the problem here?
Thanks.
Andy
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Hi Andy,
Is there a opto switch on the mechanism/carousel and if there is has you see that the index led is pulsating as it goes past each record slot? in addition the home led must flash at the home position of 99.
When ever you change a mechanism control board or CCC you should check the opto switch adjustments.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Alan
Thanks for your reply. There is an index led on the mech and this does not pulsate. It works fine on the R87 though and the home led flashes at 99 on this too. Where will I find the opto switch? I suppose it's possible that it's missing?
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Hello whymejake,
Sorry you did not give your name,
The M44-7 cartridge is the best one for the job and nearest you will get to the original M44C, I would swop round the phono input to see if the problem is with the amp rather than the cartridge (it is rare that these go).
There is a lamp controller on Ebay but it is listed as a controller for a Rock Ola, it is for auction in the UK (the seller is listed as 1942jrc)
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
Alan,
I fixed my problem. It turned out the 1N4004 diodes which were tied across the SCR's were the problem. All three were shorted possibly because the input jack had cold solder joints which I also repaired. Put the board back in and it flashes just fine, either with the music or with the constant flash.
My Phono cartridge is also good. After you said they hardly ever fail, I decided to clean up the connections even though they didn't look bad. Put it back in and it works perfectly. Now all I need is some new bulbs which I have ordered. I just guessed that the 120v would be brighter than the 130v and am hoping for the best. Thanks for your patience and your help. Now if I can get my labeling program working, I will have it made.
Alan Berends
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Alan
Thanks for your reply. There is an index led on the mech and this does not pulsate. It works fine on the R87 though and the home led flashes at 99 on this too. Where will I find the opto switch? I suppose it's possible that it's missing?
Hi Andy,
Look to the right of the right hand index solenoid you should see a bracket and a screw hole where the opto switch is mounted, this counts the teeth from the home position. The cable from the opto switch goes into the top right hand socket on the Mechanism Control Unit (P203).
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Hi Alan,
Glad to hear that you have sorted out the two issues with your R-93 jukebox.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Hi,
I have managed to get my hands on a Rowe-Ami CTI-1 Crestwood juke. Now call me stupid, but I know VERY LITTLE about electronics, and the honest reason I have got the juke is purely nostalgic. I like the noises that it makes and the music it plays…
I picked it up yesterday and got it home safely. The gentlemen I have bought it off has not had sound from her since just before Christmas. He said when he got it 15 years ago it had the same problem, then one day it just went BOOM and worked ever since – until he put it in storage 18 months ago. He tried to fire her up around 6 months later and got no sound – although all the mechanisms worked fine. Then just before Christmas, he got her working again. It stood dormant in the garage since until I registered my interest, and sure enough, the sounds gone again.
The gent believes the problem could just be because it’s a bit damp and cold in the garage, and once it’s warmed up in my house so to speak, it will kick in again. Failing that, he suspects the amp might well be damaged (I would need to get someone in to do this as I haven’t got a clue).
I have ordered a replacement amp which luckily I found on eBay so hopefully that does it but if you can offer any advice that'd be great.
Simon.
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Hello Simon,
What country do you live in?
If you are in the UK or Europe you could send your amplifier to me for testing/repair, if in the USA I would say Bruce Wentworth is your man.
You could make sure that the cartridge connections are good also where the tone arm cables fit into the back of the small valve base type socket, these are known to come adrift. The plug that goes into this socket should have its pin connections cleaned (use one of the fibre glass pencils for this) it may be as well to splay the pins slightly to give a better connection.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk
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Hi Alan,
Thanks for your reply.
I am in the UK. However, I was playing around with it this weekend and gradually some noise started to creak through. After an hour or so of wobbling this and that, it was coming through very clearly, although the louder the better as low volume comes through with a slight crackle.
I ordered a new amp which arrived this morning (I paid £20 inc postage for it) so I am going to swap it over and see if that fixes it, but if not then I think you could be right with the pins that slot into the arm. There's a little bit too much movement in it so could well be that.
Fingers crossed! I will certainly give you a shout if I don't get anywhere but at least things have progressed a little bit.
All the best,
Simon.
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Just FYI, the replacement amp has fixed it completely.
However, a new problem has appeared which you might be able to help with. There's a problem with the selection and in particular, which side of the vinyl it plays. If i press C1 or D1, it plays the same side of the LP.
Any clues?
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Hello Simon,
What you need to find out is if the problem is keyboard or search unit related.
If you remiove the three larger bolts on the search unit you can remove it from the mechanism/carousel, now replace the large molex plug on the side and check that all the contacts are in line (there can be some up and down movement in he plug so check it out)
Now when you select you can see what pins are pushed out the outer row is the A sides and the inner row is the B sides, when we test these out we always test them by goin up a letter and number both for the A side and then the B's.
So test A1, C2, E3 etc then B1, D2, F3 etc. if you do not get the B sides to fire out the pins then you will need to clean the open contacts of S1 & S2 on the search unit and the two open relays on the button bank.
The best way to clean these open/closed relay contacts is to pull a paper taper through them to buff up the contacts.
DO NOT USE WD40 or any switch cleaner it will only cause more problems.
Also do not use sand paper or any other abraisive material.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk
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Thanks for the prompt reply Alan. I'll give it a go and let you know.
Simon.
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Hi,
If you require advice on Rowe Ami jukeboxes with regards to faults, where to get parts etc by all means leave a post.
Regards
Alan Hood
ami-man
Hi ive got a problem with a 1965 rowe ami diplomat,is that something you could help with?
Thanks
Andy
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Hi,thanks for the reply
My problem is with a 1965 rowe ami diplomat.
The problem is when the selection is made with the buttons the selector mechanism turns but the solenoids do not operate and push the selector pins therefore the search just goes on and on.
This problem has just started to happen.
If the selector pins are pushed manually the selection is played as normal.
Any ideas would be great
Thanks
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Hi Andy,
I have posted a reply to this issue a number of times in the past for other people.
You need to clean the open relay contacts on the Search Unit S1 & S2 by pulling a paper taper between the contacts and then make sure that the contacts are making and breaking correctly, do this also to the two relays on the button bank/keyboard assembly they are usually under a plastic cover.
DO NOT CLEAN the contacts with WD40, switch cleaner or any abrasive product such as sandpaper etc.
Please let us know how you get on.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk
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Hi,
Thanks for the reply.
I have done as you said but the problem persists,all the contacts look clean and when operated manualy everything works as it should.
Could there be another cause? or is it time to call an adult to come and look.
Again thanks for the suggestion's
Andy
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Hi Andy,
If you have cleaned the S1 and S2 open relay contacts and the other open relay contacts on the button bank then you need to call in your local adult or you could try replacing the search unit in the UK if you can find one with a good board it will cost you £50 plus (infact it would cost you that for a good used circuit board).
What country do you live in I may be able to suggest somebody?
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk
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Hi Alan,
Again thanks for the reply.
I am in Manchester in the UK and any further help would be appreciated.
Andy
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Hello Andy,
I suggest you contact me off of list so you can make arrangements to get over to see me in Sheffield. I am on holiday for a week from tomorrow afternoon.
If you need a home visit I can suggest that you contact Len Beddow whoes details I will let you know.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk
0114 247 0242
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Hi,
I have a Laserstar wallphono and it has stopped paging the pages, I have checked all the faulst reference in the Mainenance manual. There is no volts coming out of the keyboard interface when either of the page forward or back keys are pressed both, the 28v and 9v leds are "on" on the interface. The three micro switches are working correctly on the page diplay unit do you think I might to re boot the computer to default as there is no errors showing.
Is there anything else I can check.
Regards
Poolman.
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Hi,
Thanks for the reply i have done as you suggested and contacted Len Beddow.
Ill let you know how i go on.
Thanks again
Andy
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Hi,
I’ve just bought my first jukebox, an RI-3, and I’m looking for some advice.
Now I may have been a bit naïve, so I hope you’ll be gentle with me? (but you seem to be a friendly lot.....)
I must admit, the ad heading said: “COMPLETE FOR SPARES OR REPAIRS”
But it went on to say: “WORKED FINE UNTIL LAST YEAR BUT THEN STOPPED WORKING. COMPLETE AND IN PRETTY GOOD CONDITION.
HAS NOT BEEN MESSED AROUND WITH. SPACE NOW NEEDED”.
As I have a career in telecoms spanning 40 years, including maintenance of electro-mechanical and electronic equipment, I thought I should be up to the challenge.
If it WAS working, then I should be able to get it going again, right?
Alarm bells started ringing when I looked inside and saw a number of “choc-block” and crimp type connectors in the loom, which you would not expect in something that had “not been messed around with”!
I understand that this model is 160 selections (ie It should hold 80 discs and that’s how many strips there are in the title panel). My suspicions were further aroused when I saw that the carousel has space for 100 discs!
I have obtained a field service manual for an RI-3 and notice a number of other discrepancies. For example, the amplifier does not look like the one in the pictures.
According to the manual, the amplifier should be part number 6-09166-01.
However, mine is labelled R-3760B
The label on the cabinet says: Model RI-3 Serial No 838156
So at least the cabinet looks appropriate for an RI-3
According to the manual, the Central Control Computer should be part number 6-08870-04.
However, mine is labelled 6-08870-06
According to the manual, the Mechanism Control should be part number 4-07221-02.
However, mine is labelled 4-07221-03
My mechanism is labelled 6-08700-01 Serial No 071056 but I can’t find a part number for the mechanism listed in the manual.
So my question is: What have I got and is it worth spending time and effort on?
Or should I sell it on for spares and look for another project??
Looking forward to your replies.
Cheers
Dave.
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Hello Dave,
Welcome to the joys of jukebox ownership.
What Country you you live in? I am from the UK.
The Rowe Ami RI-3 Jewel was produced in 1980 it uses a standard 200 selection mechanism but the selections were limited to 160 selection because there was not sufficient title space. A diode was placed in the Pricing Board to disallow 8 & 9 being selected as a third digit. With the diode removed it will play all 200 selections.
The amplifier that is in the jukebox currently dates from around the early to mid 70's.
The wiring may have been altered to accommodate the amplifier, the original amplifier would have had a standard phono input into two phono sockets, the volume control would have been via a black (round) 7 pin molex plug, the mute was a brown 7 pin molex plug type and the phono output was via a white 7 pin molex plug type. The standard amp was a 50 watt stereo amp with onboard output package.
I would suggest to you that you send in your boards for testing/repair to me if you live in the UK.
The boards required would be as follows:-
CCC (Central Control Computer)
Mechanism Control Unit
Pricing Board (the board just under the CCC)
The boards you have in the jukebox are correct the differences are just the rivision numbers.
You mention the wiring and the crimp type connections would be the normal way for the loom being produced but and with screw down terminal strips indicate something has been altered.
Other than the boards the main issue with the jukebox can be rotted speaker cone surrounds (normally foam) these can be renewed by buying foam surround kits and is the best course of action assuming the paper cone is intact and the voice coil is not binding. I also provide a repair service on the speakers with regards to the foam surrounds.
I give free advice on all Rowe Ami jukeboxes and can provide spare parts, repairs ( including all the electronic boards and amplifiers) and servicing on this and most other Rowe Ami jukeboxes.
A number of people have been using this type of jukebox to make the Continental Copy rebuild, a vendor on Ebay offers an instruction CD for for sale.
Yes the jukebox is worth it you have not paid too much.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk
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Hi Alan,
Thanks very much for your reply – it’s good to know that I seem to have all the correct components (other than the amp, which I don’t see as too much of a problem at the moment). And yes, I’m in the UK – Westgate on Sea, Kent.
I am so impressed with everyone’s generosity in sharing their expertise on this forum, particularly as some seem to be “in the trade”.
I’ll happily send the boards off for testing/repair but I’d just like to understand a few things myself first.
So, a load more questions I’m afraid………..
Although sold as “not working” the jukebox does in fact partly work in a temperamental manner.
Sometimes when it is switched on, nothing happens (other than the fluorescent tube lights).
Other times, it will grab whatever record is there, play it, put it back in the carousel and then the carousel just keeps rotating.
Other times the carousel just keeps rotating and no record is selected.
I understand that while the carousel is rotating, the “Opt Sw Index” LED should be flashing and the “Opt Sw Home” LED should flash as it passes position 99. Neither of these is happening.
I also noticed that the 28 VAC LED was not lit. Wiggling the “phono harness” plug will make it come on but it doesn’t seem to make any difference to the machine’s operation. What is the 28 VAC used to power?
Thanks for your patience.
Cheers
Dave
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Hello Dave,
As you must be aware I am in the trade and do most of the Rowe Ami board repairs for both Roving engineers and end users alike.
With all jukeboxes that come to us unknown, you start checking from the power supply upwards if there is a fault on the 28 volt AC line then the transfer and mechanism motor will not opperate. Usually the main problems on power supply boards is the 28 volts DC and 8 volts DC.
Give me a call and we can talk about your problems.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood (ami-man)
Games Unlimited & Datex Systems
Units 4 & 5 Lion Park
New Street
Halfway
Sheffield
S20 3GH
0114 247 0242
alan-hood@datex.co.uk
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Hello, I've been asked to repair a Rowe/AMI LaserstarCD Eagle that is "throwing" CDs. When I arrived there were 6 sitting on the platter. When I removed them and tried to play something it didn't seem to read the CD, so I (very carefully - grounded myself to the player first!) cleaned the laser lens with alcohol and a q-tip and then cleaned all the CDs which were somewhat covered with grime. I followed the instructions in the manual for a couple of adjustments but they really didn't seem off much. The height between platter and magnetic grabber (forgive my terminology mistakes) was within specs. I also adjusted the optical sensor for the carriage and it seemed fine. I was wondering if there was supposed to be some lubrication on the gears and piston of the grabber - they were all quite dry. I couldn't find anything in the manuals about that. I initialized all the discs and played 30-40 tracks (skipping/rejecting most of them) and it seemed fine, so I headed on my way. I assumed (yeah, I know, bad idea) it wasn't reading some of the dirty CDs and that I had solved the problem. A few hours later they called and said it was doing it again. I just don't know where to go from here. I was never able to actually see it "throw" a CD or place two on top of each other. It worked flawlessly with me watching (imagine that) many, many times. Maybe the grabber isn't grabbing (occasionally), so it just keeps piling them up? TIA guys.
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Does it have the CDPRO player kit installed?
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Yes Ken, it's a CDPro player. Thank you.
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Are you thinking I should replace it?
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Tech support at Rowe/AMI recommended an adjustment of the grabber mechanism. He said it was in the book, but I don't remember seeing it or I would have done that for sure. The manual is with the juke, 40 miles away. I hope I can figure it out when I get there.
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My advice would be to trip down the gripper bow assembly on site and clean off any lubrication that maybe present, the best way to do this once you have the assembly in pieces is towash all the parts down in luke warm soapy water.
Check that the nylon gears are not worn and reassemble put high melting point grease in the trunion casting sockets.
I would also check the magnetic hub and replace if needs be.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Sometimes the cork piece attached to the magnetic hub either falls off or gets too worn down or caked with gunk.
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Thanks guys. Looks like I'm going to battle with this gripper arm assembly. I'll have to figure out what a trunion casting socket is when I get in there! The cork piece did look caked with gunk, so I'll try to carefully clean it, I suppose. I don't have any parts. This is the only jukebox with CDs that I service now, and most of my experience is with NSM which has a completely different way of handling CDs, as you know. Have a good one!
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I use either lighter fluid or alcohol on a cotton swab to clean the gunk from the cork piece.
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Excellent. I carry alcohol and q-tips. Thanks a million.
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Get ready to laugh your rear ends off. I got the gripper taken apart and I don't know how to put it back together! I don't know how to line up the gears! When you're done laughing, maybe someone could give me some insight into how to put this back together right? I brought the whole mechanism home. Oh, man. I need to just retire. LOL
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Hello pinballvideojuke,
The two gears are called the Trunnion Gear & the Cam Gear, the trunnion gear is the outer one on the casting and is keyed, the one you will have to get right is the cam gear. In the rest position (not playing) the cam lays almosy horizontal. On the cam on one side you will see a hole in it, this hole on the long edge should be at the bottom or away from you so it can not be seen in the rest position.
It could be however that you have got the trunion casting upside down, this is easy to do on the earlier mechanism that had the wire separators rather than the open basket.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Thank you Alan. I did have the trunion casting upside down, but I figured that out. I knew that hole on the cam gear could help, but I didn't see any other indicators to line the hole up with. With your advice, I think I can get it now.
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I got it back together and perfectly in time, thanks to Ami-man.
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I'd like to enlighten everyone to my adventures with this Rowe Laserstar CD Eagle (wall box). To recap what has happened :
The original problem was the jukebox was "throwing" CDs. I'd make an adjustment, think I had it fixed and the problem would return, as soon as I left!
With help from Ami-man and Ken Layton, I was able to get the mechanism of this jukebox working very smoothly, after removing it from the juke. I took the gripper mechanism apart and cleaned and lubed everything (didn't lube the plastic gears). I adjusted the magazine (slop and center position), platter height, and optical switch. I cleaned all the CDs and very carefully cleaned the laser lens. I used compressed air and cleaned everything spotless. I think I performed almost every adjustment! The thing is, that didn't fix it. Read on.
Check this out guys: I went back to the location and reinstalled the mechanism in the jukebox. I played a song or two and observed the operation. Beautiful. I cued up a few more, closed the door and played the Megatouch. I went back to take a last peek inside and found TWO CDs ON THE PLATTER! At this point, I'm more than a little confused, but determined. I had thought all along that the CD Pro player may be getting a little weak in the laser, but I didn't think that could cause this particular problem. On a hunch, I almost closed the door and peeped in through the crack to find the fluorescent lamp fixture leaning over the gripper arm. Talk about a light coming on. I had found the problem, finally. The plastic bracket that holds the F8T5 bulb was broken, so I used zip ties to tie it back close to its original position. I haven't heard back from them, so I think that did it. It's possible that this was the problem all along, so remember guys, KISS. In troubleshooting, observing the problem is key. I was never able to actually see it duplicate the problem because when I had the door open to watch the mechanism, the fluorescent fixture (attached to the door) was well out of the way! No wonder it would work flawlessly when I was there and as soon as I would leave, the problem would return! Duh! Alright, wrapping this one up. Until the next head scratcher, you guys have a good one and remember to Keep It Simple Stupid!
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Glad to hear that you have sorted it and as you say it is the usually the simple answer.
One of the main problems with letting a site have keys is that if there is problems they will dable, when we operated one of the usual problems was with broken gripper bows.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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I recently acquired a 1953 model e-120 AMI , and was wondering if anyone could tell me how to set it to free play. This is my first box, and am having all sorts of fun getting this thing going again, but can't seem to find much info. on setting the free play. Any help would be greatly appreciated.
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Greetings all. I'm a newby so please be gentle! I recently purchased an r-87 and when it is powered on it grabs a record and places it on the turntable, the tone arm moves over and then back to rest, then the record is placed back in the rack only to repeat all the preceeding. Is this likely an adjustment? The previous owners said it had been working perfectly and it has not been powered up in a couple of years and now this. Thanks for your time and assistance.
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Hello,
Sorry you did not leave a name.
The problem could be down to dry joints (called cold joints USA) on the connections pins in the boards, but more than likely it will be a board fault. If you are in the USA I would say send your board to Bruce Wentworth for testing/repair, if you are in Europe you could send in the boards to me.
I normally ask for the following boards and test them as a set of boards:-
CCC (central Control Computer)
Mechanism Contol Unit (mounted onto the front of the mechanism/carousel)
Pricing Board (mounted under the CCC it has a clear plastic cover)
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Many thanks Alan. Time for me to get busy sending out boards. Ready to get the music playing.
Jerry in Texas, USA
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Hi
I have an AMI-Rowe JAN Diplomat juke that was free. Free because it was missing both the pre-amp and amp! I'm having a heck of a time sourcing original replacements, and i would love to have a tube amp, but my question is this...is there a modern amp that I could use instead that will accept the magnetic cartridge input?
Any advise would be greatly appreciated.
Thanks;
BCGary
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Hello BCGary,
What country do you live in. When going onto forums it helps if everyone puts their country information into their profile being that most forums are used worldwide.
Preach over.
If you are in the USA, try www.jukeboxparts.com (http://www.jukeboxparts.com), if in Europe try www.jukeboxparts.co.uk (http://www.jukeboxparts.co.uk), www.jukebox-world.de (http://www.jukebox-world.de) or myself.
Or course you can check out Ebay. I would suggest that you keep looking, I do have both chassis's for the diplomat but I am in the UK. Both chassis's would not be cheap but would be well worth it and would increase the value of your jukebox.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk
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Hi AMI-Man;
I have updated my profile to show that I am from the "Great White North", namely Canada. Thanks for the tip! I have been diligently watching e-bay for replacement amps but so far without success. I'm wondering if you know what other AMI amp models would be compatible with my Diplomat? I agree that going solid state would be a pity as I would lose all of the "bang" of a tube amp.
Cheers;
BCGary
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Hello BCGary,
The amp would be same out of a 1966 Model O Bandstand. The amp from a model 1963 Model L or 1964 Model M would be compatable but to large to fit into the amplifier compartment, I have used these as a temporary sulution whilst taking the amp/pre-amp away for refurbishment. It will go ito the compartment on an angle.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Hiya,
I recently brought a AMI R85 jukebox, it's a bit tatty but I've given it a bit of a clean up, replaced a few wires and put in a new needle and its starting to sound great... the problem i have is i am getting constant static through the right hand speaker (as you look at it) that ofter increases to a huge creshendo of white noise. i've tried everything i can think of (which is admittedly not that much) but i can't get rid of it. Does anyone know how to get sort this out? Please help; it is keeping me awake at nights.
Thanks
AP
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Hello AP,
Please leave your proper name and location, it helps when advising on spares or where to send your parts for repair.
I suggest that you post some pictures of your amplifier and output package, so I can establish that it is wired correctly and can suggest options.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Your problem for throwing CD's very well could be the Sprag wheels on the motor under the player are worn and letting the carriage to rotate to far. What happens is the carriage say should stop and play CD 45 and the carriage stops one past or two past or maybe 1/2 way in between a cd. What happens next is the bow arm tries to pick up the CD and it is not aligned straight on and it can start the pickup then as it turns to lower the CD on the player it flips out.
Also if the carosel stops and is not locked in with the Sprage wheel the carosel can rotate slightly which then after the CD is played will put that CD in with the next CD, resulting in 2 cd's in the same slot. So next time the CD is played the Arm cannot pick both up and either 1 -2 CD's are then flipped out onto the mech somewhere and does not play. So each time this happens you start getting several CD's laying on the bottom or all over th mech.
Alan
Chambers Music Co.
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I have a whole mess of 250 watt amp driver boards (40710104) mostly Revision J
most seem to have the same parts blown (R21/R23 some with R24 as well) as well as the same trace burned up on the back side. (as well as the main driver transistors)
the failed parts seem to all lead back to transistor Q4 which is bad (at least on the board i'm currently working on.)
I'm going to attempt to repair them for spares. Can you suggest what parts need to be replaced (besides the obvious burned parts)...
mainly I'm interested in what the root of the issue is that causes this particular failure?
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I love my Rowe R-86 but its giving me a problem I hope you can help me out with. It cycles over and over and never plays a record for more than 5 seconds. magazine spins, arm pulls a record, needle goes over and plays for 5 seconds then arm takes it away. over and over and only stops when powered off. unable to make a selection anymore. Just cycles over and over and over. Any ideas?
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Hello jac85742,
If you power up the jukebox what happens? Does it do the following?
The magazine/carousel scans off and completes just over a full rotation and stops.
Or does it scan and picks a record up and the transfer motor just keep running
Or if you lift the arm up so it does not cancel and scan off again does it pick up a record does it keep the record on the turntable until you put the arm down and reject the record.
It sound if the above is true that you have a problem with the CCC or the mechanism control unit.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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have pretty much the same problem with my rowe r88, only just aquired it, the record selection reads 100,it picks up a record , plays for a couple of seconds and then cancels. the magazine doesnt rotate and is on record no 87,the tt motor light is on, the tran motor light is on, and the opt sw index light is on. all these problems occur when you power up with no money inserted.i live in swansea south wales uk
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Hello Margamman,
I suggest that you send me the following boards for testing/repair:-
CCC
Mechanism Control Unit
Pricing Board
Opto switch
Also if the jukebox appears to be damp then we may have to check out some of the looms that go between the boards.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood (ami-man)
Games Unlimited & Datex Systems
Units 4 & 5 Lion Park
New Street
Halfway
Sheffield
S20 3GH
0114 247 0242 phone
0114 251 0727 fax
alan-hood@datex.co.uk
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thanks alan, boards were sent on monday with fedex,spoke to your receptionist, she said you were back in today.(wed) havnt sent the opto switch ,will do asap,thank you for your reply regards chris and mitchell
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Hello Chris & Mitchell,
I have got your parts, they were waiting for me when I got back off holiday, I have yet to test them and I may wait untill your opto arrives.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Hello again everyone,
Sooo I need to get this rowe cd starlight to quit making this like when there is no music playing. Anybody have some sugestions?Please. thank you
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you accidentally a word.
try switching out the audio cable for a new one. I've had bad cables make all kinds of noise...
also, check your mute circuit...it's an orange wire with a black stripe it goes from the 6 pin plug on the right side of the amp to the computer. check your ground on the amp, player and computer too. something might just be loose or a little corroded.
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Question about the:
RoweLink Controller (40955703).
From the controller it goes to the Power Supply Assembly (EC1997-01)
Which I assume powers on the Pre-Amplifier (61138702)
and 250 Watt Amplifier (61146906)
The Unit also has an LED Brightness Control (40939701)
LED Full Control (40939702)
I would like to trick it into powering up.
Is there a Wiring Diagram for this somewhere? Or any Ideas on what I can do.
The Core must control the hardware through the controller, As you know I am trying to make a working Jukebox with the Prototype I had picked up.
I have eliminated the Core and am installing EJukeBox
Thanks
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okay, it's basically like this
the orange w/black stripe wire runs from the computer to the amp (makes a stop at the light controller...irrespective.)
basically when the computer wants the cd player to play music through the amp, the computer grounds out (connects to ground) the orange w/black stripe wire and the amp "un-mutes" and allows anything playing through the audio input to play
when the song is done, the computer disconnects that wire from ground and the amp (is supposed to) mute again.
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Nice!!...Thanks!!
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hi alan opto switch was sent on friday with royal mail you should receive soon regards chris and mitchell
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Can anyone help? I am trying to repair a Rowe Ami diplomat jukebox. The search board L-5048 had been cracked so I soldered it but now when I make a selection on the keypad the fuse blows. Can anyone advise on what might be wrong? I'm wondering if the selector arm on the board has to be in a set position or not? Please advise
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Hi Jules,
I have answered your email, I think it is time to take the keyboard & search unit to a Rowe Ami engineer for servicing/repair.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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hi alan, can you confirm that you have received the opto unit as well regards chris and mitchell
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Hello,
I have a 1977 Row Ami CTI-1S.
When I switch it on the record magazine starts rotating and does not stop.
At the display it says "200", which goes on and off.
Strange thing is that on the memory unit the LEDs of the Data and the Clock also go on and off.
This goes on even if I disconnect the encoder connector and the mech control connector.
Does any one recognize this problem? And knows how to solve it?
Thanks.
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Hello Harold1969,
There will be problem on the Memory Unit, it could be dry joints to the connection pins but I would send the following boards to a Rowe Ami specialist:-
Memory Unit
Mechanism Control Unit
Selector Logic
If you were in Europe then you could send the boards to us for testing/repair. We have had boards sent from all over the world including the USA & Australia.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Hello Alan,
Thanks for your reply.
Before sending it to you I would first like to have a closer look at it.
I saw also in one of the forums that the signals coming from the encoder can be the problem.
The advice was to connect 10K pull-up resistor (to -17V) at the encoder connections.
Is that wise to do? Or can I damage something?
Thanks.
Harold
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Hello Harold,
Never heard that one, if you get problems with the encoder is is down to the bottom two wipers being worn out, this is a flaw in the design of the way the wiper block is designed, this wear takes years and many, many plays. Just check them out and if need be clean the pinted circuit disk with a pencil rubber (erazer) and then wipe with a lint free cloth.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Hello Alan,
I found out that the problem is caused by the "5.1 to 50 pFD Trimmer Capacitor".
When I take this variable capacitor out it runs well, except for showing the numbers on the display.
It is not that bad, but it is not "in sync".
Can you advice me on a replacement capacitor and how to trim it so that everything is back "in sync".
Thanks.
Harold
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Hallo Alan,
Another question about replacement parts.
Due to leakage of the battery 2 transistors MPSA06 MPSA56 are a bit corroded.
These transistors are opsolite!?
Do you know a replacement?
Thanks.
Harold
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Hello Harold,
All the parts you mention are available from sources rom old stock.
The only part that can not be replaced is the LSI custom chip these were deleted by Rowe Ami and the manufactures Motorola in the early 80's.
If you can not get parts or want the memory unit repairing by all means sent it to me in the UK for testing/repair I usually ask for the set of boards:-
Memory Unit
Mechanism Control Unit
Selector Logic
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Mouser Electronics sells the MPS-A06 for just 27 cents each:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Central-Semiconductor/MPSA06/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMutXGli8Ay4kKpkmeMuX7Bfnk5bL3W%2fr%252bg%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/Central-Semiconductor/MPSA06/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMutXGli8Ay4kKpkmeMuX7Bfnk5bL3W%2fr%252bg%3d)
They also sell the MPS-A56 for just 12 cents each:
http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ON-Semiconductor/MPSA56RLRMG/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsTKkj12KWLXj1C6NY4%252bpMpZChBrHNqBi4%3d (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/ON-Semiconductor/MPSA56RLRMG/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMsTKkj12KWLXj1C6NY4%252bpMpZChBrHNqBi4%3d)
Jameco Electronics has the MPS-A06 for just 8 cents each:
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_26462_-1 (http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_26462_-1)
Jameco Electronics has the MPS-A56 for just 15 cents each:
http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_210606_-1 (http://www.jameco.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/Product_10001_10001_210606_-1)
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Hi All, I am new to the forum and have a Rowe R82, serial number 978857. I bought it for £50 over ten years ago. Its now time to get her working, I put it back together and repaired some of the structure, but cannot get it to work anything like. All I can do is play a record if I manually put it on the turntable, it sounds good and plays ok, but thats it. No power or signs of life to the display and the record holder will not spin. Any advice on how to start fault finding would be appreciated or places to send parts for checking etc. Thanks Andy
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Hello Andy,
What country do you live in?
If you are in Europe or wish to send in your boards to the UK then I can help you.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Hi Alan
I live in Hull, thanks for the offer, I have a manual, can you tell me what or which boards, I am a complete novice here, also can i have your address details and i will send them in.
Thanks Andy
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hi everyone, i'm new here but have a problem with my Rowe. I have a Rowe R92 and until yesterday it worked great. I screwed up, i admit it and feel very stupid about it, but here's the problem. I was going to instal the remote so that i could change the volume and skip song controls without having to reach behind the machine to do it. So, i open the box and inside is the box on the left that holds the amp and light controls. on the door to that box is a wire contact strip with a red wire and black wire connected. I disconnected those two wires, then thought better about messing with this since i really don't know anything about it and put those two wires back. Now, there is no sound. So, thinking i tripped some sort of saftey switch, i started looking around for a reset button, i found one that did nothing, then i found another on the box that controls the light flashing sensitivity so i pressed it, now the lights don't work. I've decided that i should probably call a technician to fix this before i really damage it but thought i would try here first in case it's a fuse or something. It seems to work fine though, other than the lights not working and no sound, but it picks up records, plays them, with no sound, and puts them back. it's all in working order except for what i messed up. Am i missing something simple or should i just do what i should have done in the first place and call a qualified service tech?
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Hi Alan
I live in Hull, thanks for the offer, I have a manual, can you tell me what or which boards, I am a complete novice here, also can i have your address details and i will send them in.
Thanks Andy
Hello Andy,
Ok I would send the following to be checked out for dry joints and testing/repair:-
Power supply unit ( this is on the left hand side of the jukebox at the front) send the compleate unit.
Memory Unit 301-07855 (right hand side of the mechanism)
Mechanism Control Unit 401-06905 (left hand side of the mechanism
Selector Logic 601-08060 (right hand side of cabinet)
When removing the molex plugs DO NOT PULL ON THE WIRES pull on the plastic moulding of the molex plug instead. To aid yourself mark up the plugs for the boards (as the case of the selector logic there is five plugs P501, P502, P503, P505 & P506)
On the power supply there are plugs marked up phono harness, to power switch and lights that need removing (these have two tabs on the side of the plugs that unlock them) you will also have to take out the amplifier supply plug. The 220/240 supply cable goes through a number of clips and goes through a hole in the back of the jukebox. You will see a plate that locks down the supply to the base of the jukebox on the right hand side that is held down with 2 x 1/4AF (4BA) screws.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood (ami-man)
Games Unlimited & Datex Systems
Units 4 & 5 Lion Park
New Street
Halfway
Sheffield
S20 3GH
0114 247 0242 phone
0114 251 0727 fax
alan-hood@datex.co.uk
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Hey I have a R-93, and am trying to connect it to my distributed audio receiver.
To do this, I am using a line output converter to convert the line level outputs from the Jukebox to the RCA level inputs of the receiver.
I am able to get good quality sound (although only from the right speakers, no left) by connecting to the terminals on the Jukebox that the internal speakers were connecting to. However, I would like to be able to use my receiver and the internal speakers at the same time.
I would imagine, with the multitude of right and left amplifier terminals, that this is possible, but I have not been successful in making this work. I don't have a manual, and was wondering if you could provide some guidance on how I can connect these wires to achieve my desired result.
Here are some pictures to show you what I am working with (sorry about their orientation):
Terminals with annotated explanation:
(http://i45.tinypic.com/nygpl.jpg)
Full view of terminal area:
(http://i49.tinypic.com/23739s.jpg)
The amplifier
(http://i45.tinypic.com/zyhkki.jpg)
Thanks!
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E1 is "ground" for your speakers.
e2/3/4/5/6/7 are your speaker (positive) outputs...the higher the number, the more power goes out to them.
but everything must be connected to E1. (negative)
you have your jukes speakers on E1 (black) and e4 and e6 (pink purple) which is okay because they share a common ground
seperate your pink/purple to left and right again...and wire your house speakers to (negative) E1 and (positive) to E2/3/4/5/6/7 as the loudness you need to match the jukebox permits.
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I've put an image below to show how I think I should wire the setup.
- Is this correct?
- Is it okay to have the Speaker Right Negative and Juke black (negative) cables both on Ch. R. E1?
- Is there a way to have the jukebox volume knob control only the jukebox speakers, and not the outputs going to the house speakers?
(http://i47.tinypic.com/w1cxeh.jpg)
Thanks for your help!
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looks good. You could probably move the positives up one spot. (from 5/6 to 6/7)
make sure you don't overload the jukebox amp...you need keep the speaker load between 4 and 16 ohms.
if you have several speakers on a channel, i suggest you post the setup and i can calculate the load...as too low of a speaker load (under 4 ohms) can result in amp damage. (too high (over 16ohms) just results in low volume output)
the jukes speakers are 8 ohm. House speakers are usually 8 ohm as well (assuming a single speaker on each side) Because they are attached to the amp in parallel that puts you at 4 ohms. so you'd be good.
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The jukebox amp is not actually powering the house speakers. It is being converted to line level, and then goes into the home audio receiver as an RCA input. The home audio receiver is therefore powering the speakers that play the jukebox's output
The specific device I am using, a Axxess AX-ADCT2, does not specify what the load on the amplifier is from the device. However, I have read on other forums that these devices have little effect on the overall impedance load on the amplifier. Does that make sense to you? I definitely don't want to ruin my amplifier.
Also, any idea about the volume control?
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sorry my phone cut off your post and pictures there.
it will be fine. It's a very small resistive load. You box should specify a maximum input wattage, it's likely below the output of the Rowe amp, but check to be sure.
if you only have output on one side after properly wiring up the speakers, check your screws where the volume control is attached and make sure they are still tight. if still nothing, check the plugs on the amp and make sure they are connected tight. The volume attaches with a plug with about 5 or 6 wires on it...white and purple or purple stripe i think.
if not, you might have a blown channel...take the amp out and flip it around... there will be some fuses back in there on the boards.
if you have some burned out, your channel is blown
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To take the amp out do you just lift up and then pull out? That's what it looked like, but I couldn't quite get it out and didn't want to break anything.
I only got output out of one channel, so I went ahead and just hooked the two left channels to right channel terminals. I think this should only present a 4 ohm load to the amp (assuming the converter is negligible). With this setup I am getting volume from both speakers. However, I'm not sure if I am missing half of the songs since I have no left speaker output (it sounds fine to me though).
The volume knob connected in between the left and right channels is solidly attached, but directly below it there is a pair of unplugged red and black wires. Any idea what those could be?
I also noticed another knob identical to the volume know inside the amplifier compartment on the back, inside of the jukebox. Any idea what this knob is for?
Once again, thanks so much for your help
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it might have a screw or two near the handle. but yeah you just lift it up and away from the wall.
the extra black and red wires are connected to the volume control on the back panel. if you would like to use that one instead, you'd just disconnect the one you got there and hook those up.
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Is there any way to utilize both volume controls so that I could have one control the juke speakers and one control my house speakers?
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Hello Scott,
I can not understand why you do not use the auxillary input/output conections on the amplifier to conect to your house amplifier/speaker system.
The output at this point is around 600mv (about the the standard output from a tape/cd hifi system).
In very large installations we used to take the out from the axuillary output straight into banked slaved stereo slave amps usually at 250 watts per channel.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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I didn't realize that I had that option at the beginning of my project. What do I use to connect to the amplifier auxiliary output?
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Hello Scott,
The molex plug that is connected the volume control is the type you require.
In some cases a molex plug is fitted on the auxillary or volume control below the plug that you plug in so that the plug will not push all the way down the amp pin connections (this isdone usually so there is no chance of shorting out the connection).
If you have one of these redundant plugs fitted on the amp you can use it, it may have one or two connections in it to lock it in place.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Hi!
Im new to the world of Juke's, have only owned Pinballs in the past. Just picked up a CD100F (Venus). Its working great for a few hours, then it "freezes" up and stops! It happens at any time, during play or just sitting idle, but normally after about 2 hours. The display screen freezes on whatever it is displaying at the time, and pressing the buttons does nothing. The "Board ERR" light on the right hand side of the CD player then starts to flash. Switching to Service mode does not change anything or give me a error display. So I then turn the Juke off for 10-20mins and it comes good until it does it again a bit later.
Any help would be great, thanks in advance!
Mark
Australia
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Help!! New to the site and JukeBoxes. My, new to me, Rowe R-91 CD/45 Combo started displaying a ERR12 code today. It suddenly has a mind of it's own, stopping, starting and selecting various selections to play on it's own. Please help me, my Juke has gone insane!! :dizzy:
Was informed that Error 12 means more than one coin switch is stuck closed at the same time. I have it set to free play and have isolated (unplugged) the coin mechanism, but the error is still appearing and the Juke is still acting up. I'm starting to suspect the Service switch. I was alternating between 'SERV' and 'ON' when the fault first occurred, adding and playing 45's. Does this sound plausible? ???
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Have you reset the error?
Check in your manual to see how you do this.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Hi,
I am looking to repair my wifes rowe ami jel 200 jukebox and need some help determining if i need a new magazine motor/assembly or other.
The problem is that the record magazine doesnt turn on its own. If you rotate the magazine manually it wil play fine. My wife said that one day she changed the records and was playing them when she saw/smelt smoke coming from the open unit.
I have an installation/instruction/part list manual and i believe i need to replace the magazine motor (401-05015) or the assembly (401-05022) but i am looking for guidance so i dont buy the wrong part.
Also other than looking online, i am not sure where to get parts, i am located in canada.
Thanks in advance for any assistance.
Jim.
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Hello Jim,
You can use the later mechanism motor part number 401-05055 that was used in all the 1100/1200 jukeboxes up to the 1979 R-83. if you want to use the complete Sprag Assembly then the number is 403-05022.
You could try at www.jukeboxparts.com (http://www.jukeboxparts.com)
If you get stuck I have some good used ones here in the UK.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk
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Thanks
Is it possible or likely that a transformer or something other than the motor went if all works except for automatic turning of the record holder?
I just dont want to spend 100 dollars plus on a new motor if it isnt the problem.
Thanks again
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Hi!
Im new to the world of Juke's, have only owned Pinballs in the past. Just picked up a CD100F (Venus). Its working great for a few hours, then it "freezes" up and stops! It happens at any time, during play or just sitting idle, but normally after about 2 hours. The display screen freezes on whatever it is displaying at the time, and pressing the buttons does nothing. The "Board ERR" light on the right hand side of the CD player then starts to flash. Switching to Service mode does not change anything or give me a error display. So I then turn the Juke off for 10-20mins and it comes good until it does it again a bit later.
Any help would be great, thanks in advance!
Mark
Australia
This problem is starting to get frustrating, anyone had a similiar problem or got any advice? Juke works perfect for nearly 2hrs before "freezing". Switch it off for atleast 10mins and it works again, but maybe only for 5-6 songs before doing it again. Any help or advice would be great!
Cheers
Mark
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Hello Mark,
I would check out the power supply on your jukebox for dry joints (called cold joints in the USA) these are where you get cracks in the soldered joint around the connection pins.
Check out the long connections on the power supply that come from the transformer to the pcb. If these are ok then you need to check out the boards on the jukebox.
Only check out the connections where the molex plugs connect onto the boards and resolder these only if you can solder correctly. If not I suggest that you send your boards to a Rowe Ami service engineer.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Will check them out, thanks Alan!
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I am trying to contact AMI-MAN. I registered on the site but when I click on your username I get an error message. I have a 1965: AMI Rowe Diplomat and I am looking to get the gold picture insert in the attached link http://pinterest.com/pin/99149629267031394/. (http://pinterest.com/pin/99149629267031394/.) Do you have any idea where I can start searching? I don't know what that part of the jukebox is called so I'm not being successful in searching for it. I've so far looked on e-bay for AMI Rowe with no luck. I appreciate any suggestions. Take care. Oh, I can be e-mailed at eliteconstructionest1980@comcast.net if you are not able to respond to this posting.
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http://pinterest.com/pin/99149629266725567/ (http://pinterest.com/pin/99149629266725567/) - Hello Alan (my husband's name too). We recently inherited my husband's father's Rowe-AMI Diplomat - 1965. I have included a link to a picture of the jukebox that includes an accessory we are looking for. There is a spot, well three spots potentially, on the top panel in which you can insert a picture(s). The link shows an insert that we would love to have - it's gold and says Rowe AMI 200 select. I don't know what this accessory is called so I'm having a hard time finding any picture insert for this jukebox. I tried creating one myself but doesn't turn out so well from a home printer/computer. I have also searched ebay for this accessory with no luck. I have seen other Dip. '65's on the net with a variety of pictures and am wondering if people are simply creating them themselves through trial and error or if sellers actually posses these items and sell them. I know this is not a technical issue for you but seeing all the help you have provided to others I thought you would be a good resource for this question. I would also like to thank you for all the help you provide because one of your forums with another AMI owner helped us figure out a problem with our jukebox. Oh, one more thing, do you know of a good site to order decent title strips from? We ordered the Low Profile Software but we have over 400 to print and that is going to be expensive ink wise to do at home. We tried ordering some from a site I found but when we received them they were bad. I appreciate any help you can provide us.
Take care,
Elisa & Alan
Pacifica, California - USA
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AMI-man lives in Europe. He probably won't be on during the day the same time as you.
for parts i suggest trying "victoryglass.com"... as for availability, this juke is many, MANY years old and parts are going to be 1:) nearly nonexistant 2:) likely expensive as all hell. Victory glass sometimes parts out machines. so you might be in luck.
as for title strips, most people just go ahead and print them. there is some free software available at http://www.cdadapter.com/tstrips.htm (http://www.cdadapter.com/tstrips.htm) spend a couple hundred dollars and get yourself a nice color laser printer. the prints are way cheaper from a laser and better quality too compared to an inkjet. sure lasers cost a fortune to buy new toner for them, but you get literally 1000's of prints from them. (and the "ink" never goes bad)
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Thank you so much. I really appreciate your response to my post.
Take care,
Elisa
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Hello Elisa & Alan,
I sent you a reply direct regarding suggestions for where to try for parts and for title strips.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Hello all, I have 2 x 130 watt rowe amps part 6-09931-01. I did plan to make 1 out of 2 (both not working) after changing the darlington transistors, both amps play for a few records then blow again. The pre amp boards are new. The sound was very good when the amps did work.
I want to try changing the large electrolytic capacitors on the chassis (part 2-18231-01) one amp has mallory caps and the other nichicon. Can anyone tell me what brand and part number I can use to replace these?
Due to my location (australia) I need to try self help first. Amp is going into a rowe r88.
Cheers, Richard
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i wouldn't worry about the caps just yet...
sounds like you have an improper load of speakers on the amplifier or a shorted (or grounded) wire on the output. check for stray strands of wire.
also, shorted output transistors can blow parts on the pre amp boards...after replacing the transistors and powering up they, blow the new power transistors. You should have them checked out too.
im not sure about your amp specifically, but the 250 watt amp (which has a similar output stage as yours) has a small board with some diodes on it screwed to the heatsink on the underside. (under the preamp boards) if it does, pull it off and check the solder connections... sometimes a bad solder joint on that little board will cause the transistors to fry when powered up.
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Be sure you have the correct transistors installed in the correct positions on that heat sink assembly. These also need a mica insulator as well as silicone heat sink grease applied.
Be aware that there are counterfeit transistors floating around out there, especially on ebay.
You are aware that when you replace the output transistors, you must also perform the "idle current" adjustment on the driver boards? If the idle current (fancy name for bias) is not correct, you can blow the transistors you just replaced.
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I have a Rowe CD100F. I put a selection in and it loads the CD, doesn't spin, unloads it, reloads it again, doesn't spin, unloads it again. Any ideas as to why?
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Check the machine main power supply/transformer assembly to see if all three of the LED's are lit. If one or more are not lit then you have a problem inside the power supply assembly.
If they are all lit, you have problems elsewhere in the machine.
Check the CCC and mech control for cold solder joints.
If the above checks out then you could have a dead player.
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If you think the head unit is going to need to be replaced because it's not seeing the disk...
it should have something ID'ing it printed on it (CDM-4 etc...) insert that number into an ebay search ( ex. "CDM-4") and see what you can find and see if you are willing to put the $ into it. a "CDM-4/36 pro" can be upwards of $350 to buy. just a laser/motor assembly is about 50 if you are comfortable taking it apart.
the other alternative is the cd adapter that replaces the entire CD unit with a harddisk loaded with MP3's again, about $300 but will last forever. see: www.cdadapter.com (http://www.cdadapter.com) sometimes you can buy them used pretty cheap.
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Thanks for the speedy replies. Its seems I might be way out of my depth with this. :dunno. So Im sending one amp to some one who knows what to do with it.
Thanks again, Richard
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How would you go about adjusting The bias on a rowe 130 watt stereo amp? It might be worth a try. The transistors I bought came from ebay so who knows. I did put 2 new pre amp boards in it but with with no adjustments.
Amp is 6-09931-01
Cheers Richard
The jukebox is a r88 but the mid range speakers came from a rockola. Would this affect the amp?
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Hello Richard,
If you bought those output transisters off of Ebay it is my understanding that they do not work Someone I know in the USA, a well known jukebox repair engineer bought them and said they were no good.
Why have you put speakers from a Rock ola in your jukebox? you shoul have got the correct Rowe Ami speakers or got yours repaired and dependant on the impeadence yes it would effect things.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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different speakers are going to affect the crossover...possibly changing the crossover to the point where incorrect frequecies are being pushed out to speakers designed not to play them. If the rowe speakers are still good, i'd leave them.
Transistors (heck most components) sold on e-bay are often fake ones. this: http://www.planet-kuehne.de/martin/audio/counterfeit.htm (http://www.planet-kuehne.de/martin/audio/counterfeit.htm) give you an idea of what you could possibly encounter. it's german, but google trnslate can help you with it.
basically it comes down to using a small underrated inexpensive "universal" type of trasistor, marked as a transistor that is more expensive.
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This place sells legitimate Rowe output transistors:
http://www.cdadapter.com/repair.htm (http://www.cdadapter.com/repair.htm)
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Thanks Ken, Lilshawn & Alan
When I bought the R88 it had one car speaker up top and a half working rainbow amp. I did buy two non working 130watt amps thinking I could make 1 from 2 (ha ha). The speakers I bought were supposed to be rowe but part number googled as rockola. If I buy new transistors will I be able to adjust the bias. If I rebuild the amp will the speakers still be a problem.
And does any one have the correct part number for the r88 mid range speakers? (not in manual)
Thanks for the support, Richard
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NEED Help please!!
Just got a Rowe ami laser star 2 cd 100-c with a cdm 4.
When playing CDs, sometimes they will not play all the way through. I even added brand new CDs and initialized them and still one song may play the whole way but another may not. There was an error code of 14-01 and 6-02 but I had cleared them, that was before I got it. I got it from a local auction.
Please help... What do I need to do.
Tim
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Are you playing home made discs?
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And does any one have the correct part number for the r88 mid range speakers? (not in manual)
Hello Richard,
I see that you are in Australia, how did you end up with a jukebox with a Rainbow Amp?
These are a poor substitute amplifier.
The part no for the mid/high range speakers ison page 107 of your manual item 11 on the parts list,
4-07764-01.
If you get stuck and can not find anyone to repair these amplifiers for you by all means contact me with regards to repairing them for you.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk
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Some are homemade discs but some our not. This happens to both. It will play for like 2 minutes and then shut off.. Then others will play for the whole song... Would it be a problem with the cdm and the laser eye..
Please help,
Tim
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And does any one have the correct part number for the r88 mid range speakers? (not in manual)
Hello Richard,
I see that you are in Australia, how did you end up with a jukebox with a Rainbow Amp?
These are a poor substitute amplifier.
The part no for the mid/high range speakers ison page 107 of your manual item 11 on the parts list,
4-07764-01.
If you get stuck and can not find anyone to repair these amplifiers for you by all means contact me with regards to repairing them for you.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
alan-hood@datex.co.uk
This jukes been in Australia for years :dunno, even before the container imports started. I pulled the ebay transistors out (fake) and swapped some of the old ones and we have sound for now.
If you send me your mailing address I will send the you the mechanism control board for repair.
Cheers, Richard
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Tim:
Error code 14-01 is serious. It is a bad eprom checksum error in the Central Control Computer. This can affect operation of the whole jukebox. You will probably have to ship your CCC off to a repairman like Bruce Wentworth.
Error code 06-02 is nothing bad. It means that the V1 sensor in the dollar bill acceptor was covered too long, perhaps from a torn dollar bill. It's probably ok now and nothing to worry about.
Bruce is probably the last guy out there who can repair CDM4 players, provided he still has spare parts. The CDM4 player went obsolete 20 years ago and repair parts are now impossible to find.
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Tim
what version CCC do you have now? It is possible that you may just need a new Eprom chip. It would be a less than buying a new CCC. I have replacement chips with the updated 4.3 code if you need it.
I agree with Ken; getting replacement CDM4 parts is almost impossible. You can find some new parts for the cdm4 on ebay, but the prices are outrageous. It may be worth you upgrading to a CD pro player or getting a CDM4 upgrade kit with the Sanyo CD player.
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Hello Richard,
My details are as follows:-
Alan Hood
Games Unlimited & Datex Systems
Units 4 & 5 Lion Park
New Street
Halfway
Sheffield
S20 3GH
UK
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Ok here goes I have a Rowe AMI MM5 hard to explian all the issues howver i have video of what its doing. It will accept a comand if A side of a record is selected it will pick up the record place it on the turntable and place the needle on the record, however after a few seconds the center spindle drops and even if you manualy move the arm to the end of the record it will not auto return the arm nor replace the record. If i Manualy turn the cam back to the start postion i then can select a B side and it will always miss it by one slot. Of course none of this is in the trouble shooting in the service manual I have.
Please help
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This topic is getting very long.
I will restart the topic off again.
Please do not post any more Rowe Ami questions on this listing.
Regards
Alan
Alan Hood
ami-man
UK
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Does anyone have an eprom chip with 4.3 firmware for Rowe available?
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I have a Rowe R89 that I am parting out. I have the record mech intact and it is working. However, when the tonearm comes over to the record it seems to be not making good contact with the record. At least not enough to play correctly.
Can the tonearm be adjusted or is this part of a larger problem? I can hear a "scratchy" sound from the record, but it seems to be playing the same thing repeatedly. I have tried it with different records and get the same results.
Since I will be listing the unit on an auction site, I want to be able to indicate any issue it may be having or complete any slight repairs that it may need.
Thanks in advance!!
I am looking for the R-89 Flashing light unit: Lamp Controller, Wiring Harnesses, and the light strips. would you have this?
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HELLO lilshawn a question for the Rowelink Controller 40955703 and the orange w/black stripe wire.
Are you saying to simply ground the wire to the chassis and the amp will stay on all the time?
Just need to be sure and asking?
If so, there is a ground point close tot he very top of the box, ground at this point?
Thank you
okay, it's basically like this
the orange w/black stripe wire runs from the computer to the amp (makes a stop at the light controller...irrespective.)
basically when the computer wants the cd player to play music through the amp, the computer grounds out (connects to ground) the orange w/black stripe wire and the amp "un-mutes" and allows anything playing through the audio input to play
when the song is done, the computer disconnects that wire from ground and the amp (is supposed to) mute again.