For a while now I've been thinking about drawing up complete plans for an upright cab and creating artwork for said cab and providing here free for others to build. I'm up to my eyeballs in my own project and won't be starting anything new until at least the physical build is completed.
In the past I've provided a few concepts here and there for other peoples ideas such as Epyx's Aliens cab and some others which those guy's have gone on to build (or will be building). My idea is to produce a 'traditional' design which is not overly complicated i.e. nothing like the Astro cab and with clear step by step instructions for construction. I would also provide Hi-Res artwork or probably more likely vector artwork (this depends on a few things). Why would I do this? As a way to give something back to the forum and so I can live vicariously through someone building my design of course ;D. No strings attached just an OND complete cabinet-package for those folks interested. If I get some genuine interest I'll go ahead and put something together.
:cheers:
Ond
How about a robot riding a dragon and fighting a space pirate?
I assume we'll be able to adjust the plan to fit angled joysticks?
With the Metropolis theme, if you could cinch the art deco style, it would easily have my vote*. If it came off as just steampunky, I would pass.
*Vigo admits to having just re-watched the Incredibles tonight, and it has totally gotten him in an art deco mood.
With the Metropolis theme, if you could cinch the art deco style, it would easily have my vote*. If it came off as just steampunky, I would pass.
*Vigo admits to having just re-watched the Incredibles tonight, and it has totally gotten him in an art deco mood.
Y e a h the art deco look is a great idea, I could take that style with the radiant beams and that nice 2D look and incorporate some metropolis art in there, good thinking.
Now I want to build a cab that would look correct in BioShock's Rapture (timeline issues notwithstanding). Art deco is awesome.
And furthermore, I would love to see a Ond- designed cabinet plan out there for folks like me to follow. I know other plans (Knievel, UA, etc) have been a boon to the hobby, I think yours would too.
the curve you have in there will be difficult for many home wood workers to pull off. Hell, the angle at the top of a Galaga cabinet is difficult to get right. Perhaps if you can easily explain how to achieve this curve using normal tools it might not be so intimidating.
I think the marquee area needs to be bigger and less room given to the screen, unless you had some plans for the marquee area. The people that put speakers up there may have a difficult time installing them. Of course, without me seeing the bottom half of the marquee, I'm guessing where it will be.
My plan is to go beyond just providing a design and cutting plans and to provide an illustrated DIY guide to build from. That's where I can add some value.
My plan is to go beyond just providing a design and cutting plans and to provide an illustrated DIY guide to build from. That's where I can add some value.
I think this should be very well received. A newbie could theoretically build something more advanced looking using your guide. :applaud:
OH NO, please provide imperial measurements. it really sucks converting everything to *.572 measurements. :hissy:
What I love:
- Easy angles
- The middle front piece is great. There are some good artwork/lighting options here.
- I absolutely love the wrap around control panel. Again lots of good artwork options here
What I'm concerned about:
- The marquee wood - are they at angles? Whats the plan for marquee retainers? I only use them successfully at 90 degrees and anytime I've had to bend some, I've been less happy with the results. I suppose Happs marquee retainers would work here.
- The vertical monitor and a street fighter layout is weird. I assume it would be easy enough to flip the monitor for horizontal format, or reduce the number of controls for a dedicated vertical, or build some sort of rotating mechanism.
Overall, I like that it has clean lines and looks like a modern version of a classic arcade. This design would lend itself well to being all wood or full artwork. Very nice.
Although I don't care about them myself, I would make the center front wide enough to receive a coin door. Many consider them de rigueur for an upright cab.
Good job for the theme. I see the Tower of Babel in the lines of the cab! :applaud:
Why vertical? I may be wrong but, it seems that most noob's building their first cabinet go with a horizontal monitor. Like I said, I may be wrong about this.
I like it. Looks easy enough to build, though I liked the curves. But hey, who's to say we need to follow your plans exactly anyways? Put the curves in, a coin door, make that front panel stick out a little further so the guns can go in behind, add some pinball buttons, drop a spinner on it, put a widescreen in it horizontally - the possibilities are endless.
Good job for the theme. I see the Tower of Babel in the lines of the cab! :applaud:Tying a strong theme to a cabinets shape is a good way to design. Metropolis has some great images to use for artwork inspiration and will really bring the cab to life.
- Easy angles
Good job for the theme. I see the Tower of Babel in the lines of the cab! :applaud:Tying a strong theme to a cabinets shape is a good way to design. Metropolis has some great images to use for artwork inspiration and will really bring the cab to life.
If I were building a Metropolis cab, I would use the cityscape as the theme, and on the sides I'd have the false Maria in Yoshiwara. Makes me wish I were building a cab! :cheers:
- Easy angles
That's an oxymoron... I have seen very few cabs where people have used joints at angles other than 90deg. If they do have angles other than 90 degrees most of the time they are just overlapping the panels. You have to figure most BYOACers don't have access to a full workshop. Maybe you should figure out what tools most people are working with and design a cab that the majority of people can build. Does everyone have access to a table saw and jig saw?[/list]
*Ond gets up on his hind legs* Rant begin [ What can I say.... there are already designs out there readily available that are relatively simple in terms of cutting lines and build complexity. I'm hoping to bring two things to this project, a design that's my own and information / methods that give builders confidence to realise the design. I'd say revisit your thinking once I get the build procedure posted. A table saw, would not be necessary but a circular saw and jig saw would be the sort of basic tools I'm talking about. I wouldn't expect someone to build any cabinet, curves angles or otherwise with out basic tools including a router as well. It's not just altruism or practicality that I'm about, it's still got to be interesting and creative i.e. fun (for me as well as others). As I've said, it won't suit the majority, but it might suit some.
Good job for the theme. I see the Tower of Babel in the lines of the cab! :applaud:Tying a strong theme to a cabinets shape is a good way to design. Metropolis has some great images to use for artwork inspiration and will really bring the cab to life.
If I were building a Metropolis cab, I would use the cityscape as the theme, and on the sides I'd have the false Maria in Yoshiwara. Makes me wish I were building a cab! :cheers:
At the moment I'm turning over ideas pretty much along these lines and collecting source material to draw from for art work, it will take some time especially if I do it as vector based.
SIR YES SIR! (he-he :lol)
im really exited about the metropolis art (if you decide to go that way) especially the fritz lang version.
are you going to actually build this yourself too, or purely virtual? if you do, make sure you video document it all in your finest dungaree's!
*Ond gets up on his hind legs* Rant begin [ What can I say.... there are already designs out there readily available that are relatively simple in terms of cutting lines and build complexity. I'm hoping to bring two things to this project, a design that's my own and information / methods that give builders confidence to realise the design. I'd say revisit your thinking once I get the build procedure posted. A table saw, would not be necessary but a circular saw and jig saw would be the sort of basic tools I'm talking about. I wouldn't expect someone to build any cabinet, curves angles or otherwise with out basic tools including a router as well. It's not just altruism or practicality that I'm about, it's still got to be interesting and creative i.e. fun (for me as well as others). As I've said, it won't suit the majority, but it might suit some.
I assume that wasn't directed at me, but instead to the guy who wanted you to design a cabinet that could be built with no tools. Hopefully my feedback wasn't received in any bad way because I wasn't saying it with any ill intentions and by no means was I suggesting a design by committee approach. I like the Metropolis design/theme and appreciate your time on this project.
If I can help in any way, let me know. Metropolis is one of my favorite films. In fact, I got the Complete Restored Version for Christmas!
I like the idea of a stylized false/android Maria
Oh, and Yoshiwara IS the red light district. I would think with all the LEDs and other bling you could throw on the cabinet, it would fit in Yoshiwara just fine. Thematically, you could go with the false Maria in robot form or the "For her, all seven deadly sins" seductress Maria. Either would look cool.
I didn't realize you had another project on the go.
I'll have to check it out sometime ;D
*Ond gets up on his hind legs* Rant begin [ What can I say.... there are already designs out there readily available that are relatively simple in terms of cutting lines and build complexity. I'm hoping to bring two things to this project, a design that's my own and information / methods that give builders confidence to realise the design. I'd say revisit your thinking once I get the build procedure posted. A table saw, would not be necessary but a circular saw and jig saw would be the sort of basic tools I'm talking about. I wouldn't expect someone to build any cabinet, curves angles or otherwise with out basic tools including a router as well. It's not just altruism or practicality that I'm about, it's still got to be interesting and creative i.e. fun (for me as well as others). As I've said, it won't suit the majority, but it might suit some.
Sorry, Wasn't trying to criticize your methodology... Was just concerned that this cab, as you have posted so far, will be more difficult to build than the majority of people on these boards can handle. Do you plan on building one first before releasing the instruction set? If you do, don't take 3 years to build it because I'm anxious to start one! :lol
I was planning on building a JAMMA cocktail this summer- might have to rethink those plans. :laugh:
Looks good, Ond, though I would prefer to see it darker as well as with the cityscape in the background.
Looks good, Ond, though I would prefer to see it darker as well as with the cityscape in the background.+1
Looks good, Ond, though I would prefer to see it darker as well as with the cityscape in the background.+1
its looking great though. just for fun a totally black & white (& grey) version might be nice.
I like the sound of the changes. Given that it's a b&w silent classic, I think the dark colors would work better.
All the loading screens and should be dialog cards written in Deutch. That'd be pimp.
I am need to the forum and the scene. I'm doing research to build my first cabinet and came across this thread. This is exactly what I'm looking for. So, for all that is right and just in the world please tell me this thread isn't dead?
I am need to the forum and the scene. I'm doing research to build my first cabinet and came across this thread. This is exactly what I'm looking for. So, for all that is right and just in the world please tell me this thread isn't dead?
It's hard in this to hobby not get way ahead of yourself. I was looking at LED controllers today and thought of some ideas that may be borderline tacky. One thing I was thinking was having the buttons light up which are supported on a specific game and other such ideas.
Love the design Ond. If I needed another cab I'd build this in a heartbeat.
You should make it clearer that you are screwing from the outside through the side panel and into the bracing.
Do you suggest two fixed and two turning casters or all four turning? What about locking wheels? Is a rolling cabinet while playing an issue?
This is awesome BTW. :applaud:
I can't believe I missed this thread. Sometimes the sticky ones don't stick out. ;D
What is the offset for the top panel? Is it centered on the support board?
Really like your illustration heavy instructions. :)
Since each person's wheels will likely vary, can you put a suggested height off the ground for the base of the side panels? You have 3-8/32 listed from the top of the base frame to the bottom of the side panel, but if someone following your instructions picks the smallest capable wheels, it's possible they could get interference with the ground.
This looks great so far!
I was pondering a possible second theme for this cab as well. As I’ve suggested people can take or leave what they like from this project but it is my intention to provide a complete package including artwork.
I was pondering a possible second theme for this cab as well. As I’ve suggested people can take or leave what they like from this project but it is my intention to provide a complete package including artwork.
Whether you do a second theme or not you should also include a "blank" theme, meaning just blank templates or outlines for all the art pieces to make it easier for those who wish to design their own.
Do you suggest two fixed and two turning casters or all four turning? What about locking wheels? Is a rolling cabinet while playing an issue?
What size monitor are you building this for?
Do you suggest two fixed and two turning casters or all four turning? What about locking wheels? Is a rolling cabinet while playing an issue?
Just throwing this out there, for my cabs [both on laminate flooring] what I did was counter-sink a lag bolt in a hockey puck [I'm in Canada!] and then put a sticky felt pad on the bottom. The puck handles the weight of the cab no problem! And the felt pad makes it easy enough to slide around but still heavy enough to not move when playing.
the curve you have in there will be difficult for many home wood workers to pull off.
...
Any reason why you chose to screw from the outside through each panel? Would it not be easier to screw from the inside till 2/3 inside each panel? That would also save you from filling/sanding all those screw holes. I'm asking because I'm still debating this for my own cab.
.. I've been so busy with non arcade related stuff, what a pain having no time is, if I'm envious of anything it's the time some people have.
.. I've been so busy with non arcade related stuff, what a pain having no time is, if I'm envious of anything it's the time some people have.
+1 I use to be a nurse, and had 4 days off a week... and was single. Now I've got a desk job, wife, kids, and about 3hrs a week to take on projects. :dunno
Having a router with a 45° bit would have been a lot easier than my method for cutting the retainer bar/lower bezel piece on my main cab. I used a circular saw set at an angle and used a guide board to keep the cut straight. It worked...after the 3rd or 4th attempt. In my case, I needed to cut an angle on both the top and bottom in opposite directions which made things a big challenge (primarily since I didn't know which order to make the cuts). A router would have made this far too easy!
Having a router with a 45° bit would have been a lot easier than my method for cutting the retainer bar/lower bezel piece on my main cab. I used a circular saw set at an angle and used a guide board to keep the cut straight. It worked...after the 3rd or 4th attempt. In my case, I needed to cut an angle on both the top and bottom in opposite directions which made things a big challenge (primarily since I didn't know which order to make the cuts). A router would have made this far too easy!
Wish I'd read that somewhere before cutting out panels this past weekend for my current project (which has a lot of angles). :lol
I never even thought of using the router. Ordering set of chamfer bits now.
Just mix in some of that good sienna red, and up here we'll put in some happy little clouds.
OND
-Getting ready to start my first project and your post is the perfect step by step "how to" guide to accompany all the more general guidance I have gotten elsewhere on the site. Do not know if I will build this specific design (looking for low cost CRT TV or used Arcade Monitor vice new LCD) but I will definitely adopt many of your ideas when planning my own project. Thank you from not only talking about the design but also the actual building techniques and tool use involved. Awesome.
Just mix in some of that good sienna red, and up here we'll put in some happy little clouds.
:dunno :laugh2: Can I have some too? :)
Thanks for doing this, Ond. A lot of the techniques you're mentioning really help a noob like myself. On top of that, this design was actually wife-approved! Classic look, not too bulky, and okay to put in our office.
I actually just started working on my cab based on your plans. One quick question: on your plans for the wood, it looks like at least one of the measurements is labeled wrong. On the right side of the cab, the total height is listed as 77 1/4". But, the height of the next highest angle is 77 14/32". Are those two measurements just switched? I could probably get it pretty close just by using the angles, but thought I'd mention it.
Thanks again! :applaud: :cheers:
Just mix in some of that good sienna red, and up here we'll put in some happy little clouds.
:dunno :laugh2: Can I have some too? :)
Did Aussies ever get to experience the magic that was Bob Ross?
Bob's the man.
Bob Ross: Painting Clouds (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=raXanYjTF18#)
http://bobrossquotes.com/quotes.shtml (http://bobrossquotes.com/quotes.shtml)
Oops! You are right those measurements are wrong, the top most measurement should be 75 1/4" with the next angle starting at 72 14/32". Hmmm, I better recheck all measurements, I'll update the cutting plans with corrected measurements after that. Looks like a typo on my part. Well spotted, thanks!
Oops! You are right those measurements are wrong, the top most measurement should be 75 1/4" with the next angle starting at 72 14/32". Hmmm, I better recheck all measurements, I'll update the cutting plans with corrected measurements after that. Looks like a typo on my part. Well spotted, thanks!
Thanks Ond, that looks perfect. I was hoping to make first cuts today, but never got the chance. Hopefully within the next week.
Nice job Ond...this will be a nice benefit to those new to the hobby and others! :applaud:
I went trough this thread a few times to make myself familiar with the steps, and next up is getting the wood..the timber kind! Since we have metric system here, I'll round everything up to the closest. I'm also going to incule a rotating display (20" 4:3) so I need to do some modifications and the CP is going to have more stuff later on. What I wanted to say..THANKS! This is awesome! The design is exactly to my liking and the instructions are really good. Hopefully you'll be updating soon ;). If you have ideas for the bezel construction when having a rotating display, please share (or point me to the right direction, so I won't accidently hijack the thread ;) )
Hello,
I am brand spankin' new to the MAME scene, but I am very excited to build my first cab. This thread has been very exciting since I love the design of the cabinet and there are instructions and dimensions! OND, are you done updating this thread? If so, I'll start building and fill in the blanks. If not, I'll wait it out a bit longer. I'm going to order controls, PC, monitor, etc., so I doubt I can wait much longer when I have the components :-).
Also, I do want 4 player controls since I have fond memories of NBA Jam, TMNT and Gauntlet. If you are planning on including a 4 player CP option on this, that'd be swell. If not, I'll figure it out.
Thanks a ton for this. As someone who is new to this hobby, it will be very useful.
Hello,
I am brand spankin' new to the MAME scene, but I am very excited to build my first cab. This thread has been very exciting since I love the design of the cabinet and there are instructions and dimensions! OND, are you done updating this thread? If so, I'll start building and fill in the blanks. If not, I'll wait it out a bit longer. I'm going to order controls, PC, monitor, etc., so I doubt I can wait much longer when I have the components :-).
Also, I do want 4 player controls since I have fond memories of NBA Jam, TMNT and Gauntlet. If you are planning on including a 4 player CP option on this, that'd be swell. If not, I'll figure it out.
Thanks a ton for this. As someone who is new to this hobby, it will be very useful.
There are great 2 player versions of those games out there. Most folks that build a 4p machine rarely put it to use. Even if you have a crowd around and they happen to be playing a 4p title usually the two center positions will get played and folks will wait it out. It's your cab and if you won't be happy within anything less than 4p I say go for it but this being your first cab I would advise against it. You may have fond memories of those titles but finding three other like minded souls who will spend longer than 5 minutes indulging you may prove tricky.
OND isn't finished, he's just got a lot of eggs in the air. I'm sure he'll be around shortly.
Oh, and welcome to the forums.
Also, I do want 4 player controls since I have fond memories of NBA Jam, TMNT and Gauntlet. If you are planning on including a 4 player CP option on this, that'd be swell. If not, I'll figure it out.
This is getting kind of off topic, but when you have additional gamepads, how does one go about making them plug and play? I always have issues with the gamepads not remembering which player they were.
Ond, I just want to give a big thanks for starting a thread like this. I've been a MAME/BYOAC fan for many years now, but real life problems and obstacles have prevented me from starting my own cab project...until now. I finally got the blessing from the wife to get one into our home.
To be honest, I was really leaning towards the infamous Knievel "Woody" project, but I'm not a cabinet builder, so there's a lot of his actual cabinet dimensions that I just can't figure out how to make work (I'm an electronics technician by trade), and was getting frustrated on how to even start such a project. Your work here, and the helpful drawings and explanations are giving me all sorts of ideas and hints on how to proceed. One change I'll be making is instead of doing a widescreen monitor, I'll use a spare 19" regular monitor that I've got.
Thanks again, for providing something like this to the BYOAC community. :applaud:
I can't believe I missed this thread. Sometimes the sticky ones don't stick out. ;DIndeed. ;D
OND, this is great! I think I'm going to use this design over the Evolution or Woody. I'm completely new to this so any and all advice/tips/diagrams/pictures are GREATLY appreciated! That said, do you know when you can finish the rest of the guide? You mentioned you would post tips on t-molding, the marquee and finishing techniques prior to painting/vinyl. I can't wait to see the rest and start building my cabinet! Thanks again!!
OND, this is great! I think I'm going to use this design over the Evolution or Woody. I'm completely new to this so any and all advice/tips/diagrams/pictures are GREATLY appreciated! That said, do you know when you can finish the rest of the guide? You mentioned you would post tips on t-molding, the marquee and finishing techniques prior to painting/vinyl. I can't wait to see the rest and start building my cabinet! Thanks again!!
adamrgolf, you're welcome. I'm just getting back into all things arcade related after a bit of a break from BYOAC and that includes this thread. I have some cool Metropolis themed artwork planned for this cab which will be available to download. There should be enough here to get you started. I'm a bit wary of giving completion estimates lately :-\ but let me see what I can do over the next few days?
Hi OND,
This is brilliant! Such a great walk through. I am planning a build for a 32" LCD and am looking closely at your work and modifying for the screen. I really appreciate keeping thing relatively simple, it makes it easier to get my head around things. I m definitely not a woodworker.
I also appreciate thinking of us metric folks in explaining this project. That has been one of my biggest obstacles so far. I understand you have heaps on so there's no rush, but i appreciate it all the same.
Thanks again!
Hi, I like your cabinet design, any chance of the plans in metric!
Thanks
While ya'll wait for OND to find the ever-elusive free time to finish these amazing directions, I finished up my cab using what he's posted to date, so I'm happy to help answer questions that may come up as well.
Just Started my build, heres a pic of the side pieces, cut the other cabinet pieces after I took this pic, Just need to cut out holes for coin mech and speakers, then Cut CP pieces.
Then the real fun begins!
I've Build a 4 player cab off the Ultimate Arcade II plans, and a Cocktail table style (Both sold years ago)
Really like the plans Ond drew up, more modern style with a smaller footprint will fit nicely in my small home.
Will keep yas updated as I go along.
Thanks Ond!
Chapel
Wow, all these designs are amazing. I've never actually built my own cab.
I'm sooooo frustrated about the LCD monitor situation though! All I can seem to find are widescreen ones on ebay. Am desperate fro a 4:3 to get maximum height for my width!
Hey Chapel, it's coming along very nicely. I know you've built a few cabs before but it's a pretty cool moment to see your cab standing on it's own for the first time. Your woodwork all looks nice and clean. I want you guys who are building my design to know that it's now YOU who are inspiring me to get on with my own cab building. Thanks fellas.
:cheers:
Ond
...that is not a gap in the door as my wife pointed out to me, its just not closed completely.
Chapel
Hi folks + OND,
Thanks to your design, OND, I am now approaching doing it all for real!! Most things agthered - gonna order the wood this weekend + week off next week - no going back now!
Due to the requirements around my build, had to adapt the design somewhat. I wonder whether any experienced cab builders out there would be willing to take a look at my design before I commit jigsaw to wood!? Essentially, after feedback before plunging ('scuse the pun). Is there another forum area I should post this request in?
Really would appreciate it. The relevant page:
https://sites.google.com/site/alienarcade74/sub-projects/cabinet-design
Cheers!
beyond mame'ing some half rotting old gutted cab shell and plunking an x arcade CP on it and calling it done. (that's a no no around here in case you were wondering).
Hi Ond,
As I am getting closer to building the control panel, I have started reading your
Construction plans and have a question.
When putting together the control panel do you have it setup so it can be opened later to repair or install additional items to it? If not, what would you suggest? Maybe I guess make the bottom removeable to be able to get in there later if need be.
Thanks
Chapel
I encourage you others who are building this to contribute to the thread particularly because I will not be around BYOAC for the next few months as I need to focus 100% on other missions. Help each other to get to the finish line.
Hi Gern,
could you explain your painting process and materials used? I have just started my first coat of oil based primer, and could use some tips since this is my first cab I've painted(done counter top laminate in the past).
Thanks
Chapel
Hi PPV,Cool. I think i'll try a full sized test CP just to be sure. If possible, I would like to avoid my cab looking like an albatross! :p
I kept the control Panel at 29 inches per the build and that is more than enough room for two adults
A lot of the original 2 player integrated panels are as small as 23 inches. But go with whatever is comfortable for you. I wouldn't think an extra 6 inches would look bad.
Chapel
I was wondering if anyone knew the angle of the marquee. I've looked through the drawings and I can't make it out.
And thank you for posting Metric diagrams.
First post here - I've got *most* of OND's posts summed up into a printable .pdf - almost like a super huge page-by-page guide, cutting out all the forum talk, and any artwork stuff. Just waiting on permission from him to post it. With that said, is there a recommended site to upload files for the forums?
I finally said "F*** IT" I'm building this thing. But I have zero woodworking experience or tools, so I'm giving the plans to a buddy of mine so we can work it. Next holiday weekend, cabinet here I come.
First post here - I've got *most* of OND's posts summed up into a printable .pdf - almost like a super huge page-by-page guide, cutting out all the forum talk, and any artwork stuff. Just waiting on permission from him to post it. With that said, is there a recommended site to upload files for the forums?
I finally said "F*** IT" I'm building this thing. But I have zero woodworking experience or tools, so I'm giving the plans to a buddy of mine so we can work it. Next holiday weekend, cabinet here I come.
Already did it a couple of post back... 8)
I was striving for "Functional"! :DFirst post here - I've got *most* of OND's posts summed up into a printable .pdf - almost like a super huge page-by-page guide, cutting out all the forum talk, and any artwork stuff. Just waiting on permission from him to post it. With that said, is there a recommended site to upload files for the forums?
I finally said "F*** IT" I'm building this thing. But I have zero woodworking experience or tools, so I'm giving the plans to a buddy of mine so we can work it. Next holiday weekend, cabinet here I come.
Already did it a couple of post back... 8)
D@MN IT! How did I miss that, would have saved me about 3 hours last night. Of course I think mine is a little bit prettier, but heck, the work is all there.
OND - think some of your measurements may be out on your metric plans. e.g:
rear panel Imp = 66 9/16h on a 67 11/32 back height
rear panel Met = 1691 on a 1662 back height
Also - Front 827x593 - should this not be x610 (W of cab)
Well - I'm forging forward with a combination of the metric and common sense. The biggests hurdles I've hit so far:
1. Getting the chamfer angles right for the angled CP (and I predict I'll have similar issues with the top rear panels at are also angled) - I'm going to have to screw & glue the CP together and fill the many gaps - meaning my CP will never come apart again!
2. My CP recess and stupid joystick design that needs this weird countersink in order to get the base flush.
I feel kind of "stuck" right now waiting for my T-molding and channel bit (somewhere on a row-boat between USA and South Africa) so I can route the channel before assembly.
Btw - what's "Bondo"??
Cheers OND - why is it despite months of research and reading, you always miss a tiny thing that makes such a huge difference!??
Btw - what's "Bondo"??
Will knock something together, dalio once server's back online + can get to sketchup files.
Thanks Scott, you speedy bugger you ;D
Nice cab, Frank. Invite High Tower round to dust the top.
Hope this isn't advice after the event, but if you want to modify your cab to power on automatically, you thought of something like this?
[img]https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15144043/site%20posts/byoac/c26-F7C007-1-l.jpg[/mg]
(http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Conserve-Socket-Energy-Saving/dp/B003P2UMQ2 (http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Conserve-Socket-Energy-Saving/dp/B003P2UMQ2))
slots on the right are permanent power on. Apols if misread the prob.
Another machine for the Metropolis Gallery!!
You guys could always post them here (https://sites.google.com/site/alienarcade74/Arcadia) with the custom tag "Metropolis Cab" :) ;)
Nice cab, Frank. Invite High Tower round to dust the top.Are you sure you're not mixing up movies? Hightower (http://www.imdb.com/character/ch0005089/?ref_=tt_cl_t4) was in the Police Academy series.
the coby tv/monitor requires a pushbutton or remote signal to turn on after plug in. Something I wish I knew before I purchased a monitor.
That and I've spent quite enough $$ so far. Build an arcade machine for $100? Ha ya right try $1200!
The IR "reciever" on the TV is behind the wood bezel. :-[ TV won't turn on when I point the remote right at it. Unless I'm missing something?the coby tv/monitor requires a pushbutton or remote signal to turn on after plug in. Something I wish I knew before I purchased a monitor.
That and I've spent quite enough $$ so far. Build an arcade machine for $100? Ha ya right try $1200!
How about some kinda cheap pc IR Blaster - sure they must be pence now:
PC powers on > IRBlaster (plugged into PC) sends remote signal > Happy days
Nice cab, Frank. Invite High Tower round to dust the top.I happen to have one of those power strips and the computer draw for USB is enough to keep all the plugs active. I hear there are some other similar to that one that have an adjustment to help tune the amount of current draw to allow for such things. It is also possible that I can disable the power draw by disabling some stuff in my bios, but I haven't bothered with that, yet. So, YMMV.
Hope this isn't advice after the event, but if you want to modify your cab to power on automatically, you thought of something like this?
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15144043/site%20posts/byoac/c26-F7C007-1-l.jpg)
(http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Conserve-Socket-Energy-Saving/dp/B003P2UMQ2 (http://www.amazon.com/Belkin-Conserve-Socket-Energy-Saving/dp/B003P2UMQ2))
slots on the right are permanent power on. Apols if misread the prob.
The IR "reciever" on the TV is behind the wood bezel. :-[ TV won't turn on when I point the remote right at it. Unless I'm missing something?the coby tv/monitor requires a pushbutton or remote signal to turn on after plug in. Something I wish I knew before I purchased a monitor.
That and I've spent quite enough $$ so far. Build an arcade machine for $100? Ha ya right try $1200!
How about some kinda cheap pc IR Blaster - sure they must be pence now:
PC powers on > IRBlaster (plugged into PC) sends remote signal > Happy days
Anyone who has done this build....two questions.
1st the silly one: Did you put the graphics on the wood bezel or the glass/plexiglass???
2nd: How did you secure the glass/plexiglass over the monitor? Did you really just "rest it on the ledge behind the CP" or do you do that and use some means of securing it.
Thanks!
"
Just wanted to thank everyone who contributed to this thread. My first cabinet project based off of this design is nearing completion and I've very satisfied with the results! (http://[img][img])[/img][/]img][/url]][url=http://img]]img][/url] (ftp://img)
This design looks awesome ill definitely be using it to help me build my own. I'm also from Melbourne.
"Time Waster" is such a great name for a cabinet. :cheers: Did you get it from The Simpsons?
Looking sleek.... Red T-molding to go on? There's a positive emerging army of these cabs now!
Heh @ "hard work being over".... looks like you broke the back of the build. Wait till you get into all the fine tuning... my build finished 6 months ago, but putting off artwork + finishing touches until I can get the setup just right. Unfortunately that's led me through the various circles of Hades. I believe I'm in the 7th circle at the moment, having to learn scripting to get per game controls display working for emulators. I suppose the only way is back upwards now, though. Unless there's one of those handy portal thingies like you got on Zelda after a boss fight. I'm rambling. I should take up health and fitness rather than this obsessive hobby! :)
Nice looking cab.
Yerp. Mitre them. They don't have to be 90deg perfect mind, as they'll sit on the inside. Cut yourself some wider angles to leave yourself some play.
Good luck and god's speed.
Just a quick note, I have (temporarily) removed the PDF plans for this design while I update with new build plans for both Metric & Imperial versions with some corrections and clarifications which have no doubt annoyed some in the past. New version will also include some CP variations based on the good work done by other members here. :cheers:
Just a quick note, I have (temporarily) removed the PDF plans for this design while I update with new build plans for both Metric & Imperial versions with some corrections and clarifications which have no doubt annoyed some in the past. New version will also include some CP variations based on the good work done by other members here. :cheers:
OND-
Not sure how far along you are on updating the plans, but if you need a tester, I'm a few weeks away from cranking up the "Metropolis factory" and would be happy to compare the plans as I build with the previous plans (Have them printed out with a bunch of scratch notes from the last 2 cabs).
Lemme know.
-Brian
OND,
I drew up a copy of your plans in AUTOCAD what feels like an eternity ago (September 2013). Piecing together all the info I could find, the imperial, the metric, and stigzler's plans . After many hours of learning on the job I saved and planned to go ahead and make some sweet, sweet sawdust. Then that pesky thing called life comes. Now finally I'm ready to go. I can't find my files. I can't find your files. Read through the entire post again to see what I've missed. Turns out you removed the file so you could proof your concept. I look forward to seeing your finished piece.
I plan to work some Sheoak, Jarrah, maybe a little JAM into the design. I want it to be worthy of the pool room. Show case a little Australian Timber. No Laminex and T-edging on this one.
Cheers for the inspiration and ideas.
I truly understand about life getting in the way of this hobby, it's frustrated the hell out of me watching people chugging along with their projects while I have to do the other things. Better days are coming though ;D.
Hey Guys,
Been following this thread for some time now and I thought I would finally chime in and show some of my progress. Thanks OND for the awesome designs! I am going with a custom MK2 build. I have completed my CP and have everything else cut to size. Was there ever a consensus on what type of hinges are best? I am thinking of modifying these designs slightly to also place a door on the front (so I can fit a mini fridge in there) I love the look of the double front panel but am worried about the weight on the smaller hinges.
Here is my CP...
Ond, I totally forgot i did this years ago and would like to share. I have cad guy, transfer the plans to a pdf, and create CNC ready files as i was going to build this bad boy and still am.
I'd like to share the files with your permission. You could even repost on page 1 if you want to update your DL links to the plans...
One thing though - would you consider having these files somewhere other than mediashare? Lots of nags + "upgrade now" on that - how about dropbox?
Wiki links here (http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Build_an_OND_designed_cab_Metropolis) and here (http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=Cabinet_Plans) updated. :cheers:One thing though - would you consider having these files somewhere other than mediashare? Lots of nags + "upgrade now" on that - how about dropbox?
Done! ;) Hosted by me on page 1 of this thread. Nag free.
Welcome to the Metropolis project NRB and good luck, check in the Projects board for some good Metro build examples to help with your research.
Fantastic share, rablack97!! ;D
Now all we need is a country-by-country list of CNC'ers...
One thing though - would you consider having these files somewhere other than mediashare? Lots of nags + "upgrade now" on that - how about dropbox?
For instance, you can't batch download the 4 cad files without upgrading.
Enterprise was asking how I hold the marquee artwork, so I took some closeups. I know this is a pretty common procedure here:
Buy the clear corner protector pieces at your favorite hardware store (typically in the wallpaper area), and spray the inside. You'll get a nice clean look with no chance of paint chipping off over time.
Then use that to hold 2 pieces of sandwiched plexi (with your marquee artwork between the sheets, and screw it on.
and disregard the dust on the cabinet!!!
What a spectacular thread! I only found this a couple of days ago, but I've already read through the entire thing.
My buddy and I are planning on building cabinets this summer, and I'm leaning toward this unit, as it looks to be within our construction capabilities.
I have a couple questions, if anyone feels like answering them. First, has anyone made any modifications that allow them to easily access the inside of the control panel? I'd like to be able to switch my joysticks from 4-way to 8-way, but I'm not sure if I'd be able to adjust this to make that happen. It seems like a hinged top to the CP might work, but then again, maybe it won't be stable enough. Any thoughts?
Second, I saw some discussion about the 4:3 monitors versus the easily available widescreens. Anyone come to any conclusions on this? Have one or the other and love it/hate it?
Thanks!
I'll go take pictures of the CP hinges for the cabinet I built for the office right now.....
@ vaderag - Yerp. Bit rough, but you should be able to get measurements/tweak it....
Download here:
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15144043/mame/PublicDownloads/3dfinalmockup.skp
What a spectacular thread! I only found this a couple of days ago, but I've already read through the entire thing.
My buddy and I are planning on building cabinets this summer, and I'm leaning toward this unit, as it looks to be within our construction capabilities.
I have a couple questions, if anyone feels like answering them. First, has anyone made any modifications that allow them to easily access the inside of the control panel? I'd like to be able to switch my joysticks from 4-way to 8-way, but I'm not sure if I'd be able to adjust this to make that happen. It seems like a hinged top to the CP might work, but then again, maybe it won't be stable enough. Any thoughts?
Second, I saw some discussion about the 4:3 monitors versus the easily available widescreens. Anyone come to any conclusions on this? Have one or the other and love it/hate it?
Thanks!
Re. Switching, have you seen the MagStik or servostik from ultimark? Both can be changed without going behind - I'm planning on the ServoStik for my build!
That's the thing tho, you can set it up so it will change automatically with the software depending which game your playingWhat a spectacular thread! I only found this a couple of days ago, but I've already read through the entire thing.
My buddy and I are planning on building cabinets this summer, and I'm leaning toward this unit, as it looks to be within our construction capabilities.
I have a couple questions, if anyone feels like answering them. First, has anyone made any modifications that allow them to easily access the inside of the control panel? I'd like to be able to switch my joysticks from 4-way to 8-way, but I'm not sure if I'd be able to adjust this to make that happen. It seems like a hinged top to the CP might work, but then again, maybe it won't be stable enough. Any thoughts?
Second, I saw some discussion about the 4:3 monitors versus the easily available widescreens. Anyone come to any conclusions on this? Have one or the other and love it/hate it?
Thanks!
Re. Switching, have you seen the MagStik or servostik from ultimark? Both can be changed without going behind - I'm planning on the ServoStik for my build!
So here's my concern with those. I've read some negative reviews of the feel of the MagStick. Now, I'm no competitive gamer, so it may not matter... but I read one very well put together review from someone who I think is about the same level gamer as me (just wants to have fun) who gambled on the MagStick and didn't like the feel of it, so I'm leery.
The ServoStik seems like a good option, but I'm worried the motor is just one more thing to break. Maybe it's not a bad idea, though.
If I went with the ServoStik, I'd want to do a hardware switch, though. I don't want to dink around in the software every time.
Altogether, though, if I can find a good solution that allows me to access the CP internals easily enough, I'll probably go that way.
That's the thing tho, you can set it up so it will change automatically with the software depending which game your playingWhat a spectacular thread! I only found this a couple of days ago, but I've already read through the entire thing.
My buddy and I are planning on building cabinets this summer, and I'm leaning toward this unit, as it looks to be within our construction capabilities.
I have a couple questions, if anyone feels like answering them. First, has anyone made any modifications that allow them to easily access the inside of the control panel? I'd like to be able to switch my joysticks from 4-way to 8-way, but I'm not sure if I'd be able to adjust this to make that happen. It seems like a hinged top to the CP might work, but then again, maybe it won't be stable enough. Any thoughts?
Second, I saw some discussion about the 4:3 monitors versus the easily available widescreens. Anyone come to any conclusions on this? Have one or the other and love it/hate it?
Thanks!
Re. Switching, have you seen the MagStik or servostik from ultimark? Both can be changed without going behind - I'm planning on the ServoStik for my build!
So here's my concern with those. I've read some negative reviews of the feel of the MagStick. Now, I'm no competitive gamer, so it may not matter... but I read one very well put together review from someone who I think is about the same level gamer as me (just wants to have fun) who gambled on the MagStick and didn't like the feel of it, so I'm leery.
The ServoStik seems like a good option, but I'm worried the motor is just one more thing to break. Maybe it's not a bad idea, though.
If I went with the ServoStik, I'd want to do a hardware switch, though. I don't want to dink around in the software every time.
Altogether, though, if I can find a good solution that allows me to access the CP internals easily enough, I'll probably go that way.
I just picked up a 24" today. Seemed like the biggest widescreen that would fit. The 28" ones were like 24.5" across. I might consider rotating for mine, but I'm not sure it will fit when rotating...
If you can, I'd definitely try and get hold of a 16:10. Took w while here in the UK, but the extra height worth it imho.
Just ordered a 24" 16:10 monitor :)
One thing that I didn't spot in OND's instructions is how the monitor is fixed?
I've seen people screw into the VESA points and saw that he routed out the bezel area for the monitor to slot into, but where did the piece that has the monitor screwed into affix to?
How do you all figure out the aspect ratio? I see that a lot of listings for monitors don't have it shown. Or are you all just looking on the used market (ebay, etc)?
Is the 16:10 not going to have any black space if used horizontally, or is it just going to have less?
Also, aren't there decent MAME artwork packs out there now to deal with the black bars on the sides?Just ordered a 24" 16:10 monitor :)
One thing that I didn't spot in OND's instructions is how the monitor is fixed?
I've seen people screw into the VESA points and saw that he routed out the bezel area for the monitor to slot into, but where did the piece that has the monitor screwed into affix to?
How do you all figure out the aspect ratio? I see that a lot of listings for monitors don't have it shown. Or are you all just looking on the used market (ebay, etc)?
Is the 16:10 not going to have any black space if used horizontally, or is it just going to have less?
Also, aren't there decent MAME artwork packs out there now to deal with the black bars on the sides?Just ordered a 24" 16:10 monitor :)
One thing that I didn't spot in OND's instructions is how the monitor is fixed?
I've seen people screw into the VESA points and saw that he routed out the bezel area for the monitor to slot into, but where did the piece that has the monitor screwed into affix to?
1920x1200 is 16:10, although i found a lot did list it...
Main reason to go 16:10 is that you gain in height. It's still going to have black bars at the edge (as would 4:3 in some instances), but less, so for the same 'size' monitor you'll get a bigger picture.
My 24" arrived today and is good, although i realised (rather too late) that my existing PC monitor was 27" 16:10, so i'm going to use that instead and use the 24" for my computer monitor :)
Dunno if this is helpful, but due to the errors in the original plans, drew up my own metric ones at the bottom of the page, here:
https://sites.google.com/site/alienarcade74/sub-projects/cabinet-design
Alterations mainly around the Marquee and obviously the CP area, but should be amendable.
Hi,
Are there plans with metric dimensions? The download links on the first page only have inches.
Also, the original artwork is awesome. Is it available?
Thanks!
10cm is likely a bit surplus to requirements. I'd just take the hit and get smaller ones in...
Funny that - that was one of my "bads" during my build. I used wood filler for this - bad mistake - expanded after the paint job - now got lots of annoying bumps. :(
Put it down to experience.
Isn't Bondo just a car filler? Sure you should be able to get some decent filler reasonably priced. Bit of a faff though if you got lots of countersunk heads - either work really fast or mix often :)
I did use flexible caulk for other fill jobs (cabinet panel joins etc) and this seemed to work perfectly well. Wouldn't mess about "bondo'ing" these
Ah! Yeah - I've used that - absolutely brilliant results. As per here:
https://sites.google.com/site/alienarcade74/sub-projects/conrtol-panel#TOC-Mini-Trackball-Module
You should have no dramas. Build thread?
There are CNC files?
Yeah they can. We could do with all OND cab related files putting in one place...
Yeah they can. We could do with all OND cab related files putting in one place...
Yeah they can. We could do with all OND cab related files putting in one place...
Agreed.
For me tho, part of the fun (and satisfaction) is having the project to build myself from scratch.
Also - i'd need to adapt as using a 27" monitor, so widening the whole thing by a chunk
Try this in inkscape. Do check the dimensions though. It's an SVG - so should open in other vector programs - but again - do check the dimensions.
https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/15144043/DoNotDeleteContents/Cab%20Blank.svg
...
Question is, how to people get their curves right?
...
Rescrewing into mdf isn't good I hear, so that doesn't sound like a good idea!Threaded inserts are your friend.
Rescrewing into mdf isn't good I hear, so that doesn't sound like a good idea!Threaded inserts are your friend.
http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ#Hardware (http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ#Hardware)
Scott
So are people screwing the bottom on and fixing the top? It seems the design with the rounded corners doesnt really work with the top opening as it'll be covered in vinyl...Not sure about that -- haven't looked closely at the Metropolis CP design. :dunno
Also, how it is being attached to the actual body - i see the three bolts at the back, but is it screwed into the flat pieces sticking out as well? If so, then surely it has to be top maintainence else there is no way to screw that?
Couldnt you just put small battons along inside of side panels under cp unit and screw/bolt down into those?
I'd suggest getting your threaded inserts from a non-arcade vendor.I agree with the idea of buying in bulk, but the thread geometry on the ones you linked isn't very wide/flat. :dunno
Here's 100 of them for $5. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KT11XO (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KT11XO)
Most CPs like the one you posted are top hinged... wouldn't that work better for you?
I'd suggest getting your threaded inserts from a non-arcade vendor.
Here's 100 of them for $5. http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KT11XO (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B002KT11XO)
Buying them in bulk is pretty cheap, and you can find all kinds of useful places for them. I used them for my joysticks, to secure my monitor glass, to secure my monitor and speakers inside the cab, for attaching cable management clips inside my cab, for my marquee retainers... These things really are great.
I may be misinterpreting, but is this the same thing?The description reads "M4 x 10mm, FLANGED HEX DRIVE SCREW IN FLANGE THREADED INSERT FOR WOOD (Type D)".
http://www.amazon.co.uk/FLANGED-DRIVE-FLANGE-THREADED-INSERT/dp/B0193Y1QWE (http://www.amazon.co.uk/FLANGED-DRIVE-FLANGE-THREADED-INSERT/dp/B0193Y1QWE)
and is 10mm the right size? Does that 10mm refer to the outer size or the size of the bolt i need to go in it? Because i'll need to source some of those too...
How are you fixing it down with at the back?
QuoteHow are you fixing it down with at the back?
Same. Threaded inserts with machine screws. Probably ones that can be tightened by hand.
Similar issue to this guy's post a few posts above?
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,118612.msg1572881.html#msg1572881 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,118612.msg1572881.html#msg1572881)
He seemed to get it solved.
If you look through the thread I posted a cm version of the design - pretty certain that had the angles on... there is certainly enough info to work it out
Remember you'll need to modify somewhat as likely you won't have the same monitor as op
Having marked and cut mine a few weeks back using that diagram I can 100%promise that if you're looking for something that isn't on there, then it can either be worked out with some basic trigonometry or is not needed :)If you look through the thread I posted a cm version of the design - pretty certain that had the angles on... there is certainly enough info to work it out
Remember you'll need to modify somewhat as likely you won't have the same monitor as op
Are you referring to this post / drawing? http://www.apjgriffiths.com/shared/METROPOLIS_ARCADE_CAB-CENTIMETRES.png (http://www.apjgriffiths.com/shared/METROPOLIS_ARCADE_CAB-CENTIMETRES.png)
If so, still the same issue, except in centimeters.. I can't go point to point to make the angle as the measurements aren't all there to accomplish that.
Thanks
Having marked and cut mine a few weeks back using that diagram I can 100%promise that if you're looking for something that isn't on there, then it can either be worked out with some basic trigonometry or is not needed :)If you look through the thread I posted a cm version of the design - pretty certain that had the angles on... there is certainly enough info to work it out
Remember you'll need to modify somewhat as likely you won't have the same monitor as op
Are you referring to this post / drawing? http://www.apjgriffiths.com/shared/METROPOLIS_ARCADE_CAB-CENTIMETRES.png (http://www.apjgriffiths.com/shared/METROPOLIS_ARCADE_CAB-CENTIMETRES.png)
If so, still the same issue, except in centimeters.. I can't go point to point to make the angle as the measurements aren't all there to accomplish that.
Thanks
Okay, so, I'm not 100% certain but I think you're talking about the main diagonal...
The key is to draw your straight lines longer than needed, but mark the end points. You'll end up with essentially dots you can join up. The 15 degrees is from the vertical, so having the longer vertical also gives you the basis for that angle. Also, I found that my protractor want precise enough to get the lines spot on with it, so doing it this way made it easier to match everything up.
Also, don't worry about being too precise on the second piece - if you're using the flush trim router then you'll be fine :)
Looks about right to me :)Okay, so, I'm not 100% certain but I think you're talking about the main diagonal...
The key is to draw your straight lines longer than needed, but mark the end points. You'll end up with essentially dots you can join up. The 15 degrees is from the vertical, so having the longer vertical also gives you the basis for that angle. Also, I found that my protractor want precise enough to get the lines spot on with it, so doing it this way made it easier to match everything up.
Also, don't worry about being too precise on the second piece - if you're using the flush trim router then you'll be fine :)
Really appreciate the help.. :)
I don't think I'm going to use a router at all.. Not my best tool.. I'm just going to do my best with a circular saw and jigsaw.. So without those measurements I need.. Sounds like a protractor is 100% needed.. I had to borrow my daughters from school lol..
http://imgur.com/a/Ye6TV (http://imgur.com/a/Ye6TV)
The first picture is me intersecting the lines as you said.. I then put the protractor on and tried my best to mark 15*.. Is this how it has to be done?
Thanks again.
I've finally nearly finished cutting all the pieces now - just the CP sides to go, but they're going to have to wait as my second cheap chinese flush trim bit has just died :(Any place there are bare edges, I would have it.
Anyway - going to move on to the slot cutting for now (for the T-Moulding) - is it just the two sides and the CP sides that have T-Moulding on??
MOsting i'm wondering if the sides of the front panel should have it?
Thanks. I'm thinking of beveling those edges so may not be bare... I'll have a thinkI've finally nearly finished cutting all the pieces now - just the CP sides to go, but they're going to have to wait as my second cheap chinese flush trim bit has just died :(Any place there are bare edges, I would have it.
Anyway - going to move on to the slot cutting for now (for the T-Moulding) - is it just the two sides and the CP sides that have T-Moulding on??
MOsting i'm wondering if the sides of the front panel should have it?
Use a chisel.So, do you leave some excess there, or will the excess left by the router cutting up to the corners be enough? And presumably, I'll need a good non blunt chisel (which means another trip to the shop)
I was pondering this 'project' the other day. You know, thinking about my Metropolis theme, the artwork and so forth. I thought "If I were to build this myself what would I do differently". Structurally I think I'd stick to the design, then I got an idea! what about putting just one game on the cab. A game of Metropolis that I write? It would all hang together then, the artwork, the game, the theme. It could be fun - a scrolling 2D platform Metropolis game. Is it hard to do? :dunno D'ya think I could do it? What should the game play be? Would anyone be interested?Nice idea! I had the same thought with my cab - Super Bubble Fighter II Turbo.
Based on the movie Metropolis??? Sign me up!
The thickness of the CP provides the lip behind which the plexi sits. The rear edge of the panel is rounded off to provide a gap - like in the diagram.
The thickness of the CP provides the lip behind which the plexi sits. The rear edge of the panel is rounded off to provide a gap - like in the diagram.
So just to confirm, you've rounded both the front and the back of the main cp piece and then that sits on top of the cp back piece (flush at the back). The cp back piece then attaches to the cp backing piece which is attached to the main body. And the plexi sits on top of the cp backing held in place by the extra height from the rounded cp back??
Perfect, thanks :) Ill hopefully drill the holes for fixing those two bits later!!The thickness of the CP provides the lip behind which the plexi sits. The rear edge of the panel is rounded off to provide a gap - like in the diagram.
So just to confirm, you've rounded both the front and the back of the main cp piece and then that sits on top of the cp back piece (flush at the back). The cp back piece then attaches to the cp backing piece which is attached to the main body. And the plexi sits on top of the cp backing held in place by the extra height from the rounded cp back??
Yes! That is exactly correct.
Sounds like tweaking Sonic sprites from the Cyber City zone might work :)Based on the movie Metropolis??? Sign me up!
Heh, I was wondering when you'd catch this ;D. Yes based on the movie, it has plenty that could be material for a game:
-Futuristic city as imagined in 1927!
-Evil robot inventor Rotwang who builds a robot with hopes of recreating his wife Hel.
-The "False Maria" robot spreading chaos in the underground city, inciting riots and mayhem.
-The heroine Maria trying to rescue people from a flooding city.
-The giant Heart Machine requiring constant 'hands on' to stop it from blowing it's stack.
-The hero Freder running around underground catacombs battling evil and trying to save the day.
Side scrolling 2D, all in glorious 8 bit, chunky sprites etc!
Could be my obsession in 2017 (assuming current stuff is complete).
Router an angle down the long edge to get it close. Fill any gaps and sand to perfection.Thanks, and what's the best way to do that? Do I need to get me another angled bit??
It will make a difference in how much filling and sanding you need to do, but as long as there's a good connection between the pieces you should be fine.
I still haven't put the plexi on mine, but i'm going to go with 3mm, ~1/8 inch tinted plexi.Thanks. is that fairly standard? Presumably if you sandwich artwork it would be twice that?
Also, out of interest, what tint level?
Thanks mate (I'm in the UK too). You're happy with the 36% then?Also, out of interest, what tint level?
I spent a while on this question. Lots of talk about graylight. Eventually, I settled for a 36% tint (lets out 36% of the light). Dunno where you are, but only place you can get it in the UK:
https://plasticonline.co.uk/
Well, tbh, I haven't put it on yet. However, I got two other samples either side (commonly in the uk they're "light tint" and "dark tint"). I can't remember the light indexes on these, but dark lets less light through than the 36% and was TOO dark. The light was too light (and let more light through than the 36%). So I'm pretty confident the 36% will be fine.Thanks - was this the one you went for?
I think I just made that WAAY more complicated than it needed to be.
Greta value too - came well packaged + plexi in good nick. Can't remember how much the bezel plexi was, but wasn't much. Maybe ask them for samples?
Also - don't forget to get your marquee plexi whilst you're at it.
I went for 5mm on my bezel plexi. Also get some Vuplex and a good microfibre - polishes the plexi quick and effectively.
Great to have another Uk builder! :)
Hello,
Can anyone point me to where a hi-res version of the plan is? All I can find is the image in Reply #61. It has the dimensions, but the image is blurry. I see a reference to a PDF, but haven't found that either.
Thanks!
Justin
Also, out of interest, what tint level?
I spent a while on this question. Lots of talk about graylight. Eventually, I settled for a 36% tint (lets out 36% of the light). Dunno where you are, but only place you can get it in the UK:
https://plasticonline.co.uk/
Just a quick note, I will no longer be supporting this project - too busy with other stuff. Good luck to thos building, so long and thanks for all the fish! Ond.Thanks for everything you have done here OND. Genuinely wouldn't be so far along (or perhaps even have started) without your plans
Just a quick note, I will no longer be supporting this project - too busy with other stuff. Good luck to thos building, so long and thanks for all the fish! Ond.
How have you guys filled the little gaps between the straight wood pieces?
What I'm really interested to hear now is how people attached the control panel so that it's firm yet accessible.
I have thought through a few different options but they all seem to have problems with accessibility or potential firmness in use! Would like to hear from someone who's done it!!
(Point of note for mine, i need front and top joined as it'll be one piece of vinyl going round the curve. Otherwise I'm per plans!)
Thanks
What I'm really interested to hear now is how people attached the control panel so that it's firm yet accessible.
I have thought through a few different options but they all seem to have problems with accessibility or potential firmness in use! Would like to hear from someone who's done it!!
(Point of note for mine, i need front and top joined as it'll be one piece of vinyl going round the curve. Otherwise I'm per plans!)
Thanks
Pretty sure that the idea of the control panel for this build was that it was permanently glued together. That said, mine is only painted, so I used 2 elbow catches that I can access from the back of the control panel once I remove it from the cabinet. They hold tight and I've never had any issues with them.
What's the general consensus on how to hold the marquee and plexi in place at the top? Just wondering if this might affect how i re-do my marquee piece...
What's the general consensus on how to hold the marquee and plexi in place at the top? Just wondering if this might affect how i re-do my marquee piece...
Most people use L brackets, either in metal or plastic. I used 1/4" J channel from Display Products (http://displayproductsonline.com/extrusions/j-channel/1-4-in-j-channel-6-350-mm-260.html) and attached them to top and bottom ends of the marquee boards. Check out my flickr album for more details: https://www.flickr.com/photos/21400288@N05/sets/72157651964841131/ (https://www.flickr.com/photos/21400288@N05/sets/72157651964841131/)
Recently finished my OND cab. This is my first build and it took about three months to complete working primarily on weekends when time permitted. I learned how to use a router on this project so there were more than a few mistakes made throughout the process!Nice work mate, looks great!
Thanks to OND for sharing his plans and inspiring me to give this a shot. Another big thanks to edge929 for sharing the details of his build. This proved to be very helpful given that I based my build on his CP mod.
Recently finished my OND cab. This is my first build and it took about three months to complete working primarily on weekends when time permitted. I learned how to use a router on this project so there were more than a few mistakes made throughout the process!Nice work mate, looks great!
Thanks to OND for sharing his plans and inspiring me to give this a shot. Another big thanks to edge929 for sharing the details of his build. This proved to be very helpful given that I based my build on his CP mod.
Interesting... I'm struggling to picture it tho... Would you mind providing a close up pic? At the moment after spending nearly £30 on aluminium I'm not going to use I'm leaning towards the tape option!!Recently finished my OND cab. This is my first build and it took about three months to complete working primarily on weekends when time permitted. I learned how to use a router on this project so there were more than a few mistakes made throughout the process!Nice work mate, looks great!
Thanks to OND for sharing his plans and inspiring me to give this a shot. Another big thanks to edge929 for sharing the details of his build. This proved to be very helpful given that I based my build on his CP mod.
Thanks vaderag! By the way, I saw your post about the marquee and thought I would share what I ended up doing. I had some challenges here too and wasn't sure how I wanted to secure it to the cab. I wanted easy access to the light behind it so I ended up buying floor tile edging (link provided), cut it to length (top and bottom) and secured them to the cabinet using industrial velcro. Plexi fits perfectly between the two pieces and the velcro holds the edging in place really well.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-Building-Products-Polished-Chrome-Anodized-5-16-in-x-98-1-2-in-Aluminum-R-Round-Bullnose-Tile-Edging-Trim-H8711BDC98/206449090 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-Building-Products-Polished-Chrome-Anodized-5-16-in-x-98-1-2-in-Aluminum-R-Round-Bullnose-Tile-Edging-Trim-H8711BDC98/206449090)
Interesting... I'm struggling to picture it tho... Would you mind providing a close up pic? At the moment after spending nearly £30 on aluminium I'm not going to use I'm leaning towards the tape option!!Recently finished my OND cab. This is my first build and it took about three months to complete working primarily on weekends when time permitted. I learned how to use a router on this project so there were more than a few mistakes made throughout the process!Nice work mate, looks great!
Thanks to OND for sharing his plans and inspiring me to give this a shot. Another big thanks to edge929 for sharing the details of his build. This proved to be very helpful given that I based my build on his CP mod.
Thanks vaderag! By the way, I saw your post about the marquee and thought I would share what I ended up doing. I had some challenges here too and wasn't sure how I wanted to secure it to the cab. I wanted easy access to the light behind it so I ended up buying floor tile edging (link provided), cut it to length (top and bottom) and secured them to the cabinet using industrial velcro. Plexi fits perfectly between the two pieces and the velcro holds the edging in place really well.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-Building-Products-Polished-Chrome-Anodized-5-16-in-x-98-1-2-in-Aluminum-R-Round-Bullnose-Tile-Edging-Trim-H8711BDC98/206449090 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-Building-Products-Polished-Chrome-Anodized-5-16-in-x-98-1-2-in-Aluminum-R-Round-Bullnose-Tile-Edging-Trim-H8711BDC98/206449090)
That looks awesomeInteresting... I'm struggling to picture it tho... Would you mind providing a close up pic? At the moment after spending nearly £30 on aluminium I'm not going to use I'm leaning towards the tape option!!Recently finished my OND cab. This is my first build and it took about three months to complete working primarily on weekends when time permitted. I learned how to use a router on this project so there were more than a few mistakes made throughout the process!Nice work mate, looks great!
Thanks to OND for sharing his plans and inspiring me to give this a shot. Another big thanks to edge929 for sharing the details of his build. This proved to be very helpful given that I based my build on his CP mod.
Thanks vaderag! By the way, I saw your post about the marquee and thought I would share what I ended up doing. I had some challenges here too and wasn't sure how I wanted to secure it to the cab. I wanted easy access to the light behind it so I ended up buying floor tile edging (link provided), cut it to length (top and bottom) and secured them to the cabinet using industrial velcro. Plexi fits perfectly between the two pieces and the velcro holds the edging in place really well.
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-Building-Products-Polished-Chrome-Anodized-5-16-in-x-98-1-2-in-Aluminum-R-Round-Bullnose-Tile-Edging-Trim-H8711BDC98/206449090 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-Building-Products-Polished-Chrome-Anodized-5-16-in-x-98-1-2-in-Aluminum-R-Round-Bullnose-Tile-Edging-Trim-H8711BDC98/206449090)
Sure thing....hope this clarifies what I was talking about
Not making any promises or nothing, but I have a mind to repair this thread and maybe even take some ownership of it. What? No. Really? Yes.Sounds like a promise to me ;)
All step by step build images are now restored, now to fix up a few of my other project threads.....OR.... Get your geezerwood out that lazyboy, and get back to work. :applaud:
:cheers:
Ond
When I originally read thorough this, I was confused about the control panel. If maintenance is needed on the electrical components, how is the control panel opened up?Yes, I still have this question!
Back when I was designing this one of my rules was to keep the woodwork as simple as possible while still having an attractive looking cabinet. I wanted the control panel to have rounded edges at the front with printed vinyl wrapped over these curves. If you check the build steps on page 5 you should be able to see that the CP can be accessed via cut-outs in the back CP panel and matching cut-outs in the cabinet. In fact, the CP is secured to the cabinet with just a few bolts. You could use cable connectors, undo the bolts and lift off the CP when needed to make adjustments. Optionally if you are more confident with woodwork you could use cabinet hinges as stigzler suggests and hinge the top panel for easier access. On one of my arcade cabinet builds I've done exactly this, I have rolled off edges and a hinged top panel. Installing recessed spring loaded cabinet hinges can be tricky (and easy to mess up). Accessing the controls from inside the cabinet is fiddly but much simpler to build. If you need to regularly adjust joystick restrictor plates or tweak your controls a fair bit, then by all means go with a hinged top panel. I hope that clears things up.
I want this thread to stay alive too. My current status:I wish this guy would update us on his cab, but he went MIA. The artwork turned out awesome (http://the-artcade.blogspot.com/2014/02/blog-post.html?m=1), I would have loved to see it applied to the cab.Otherwise it's ready to go. Hope to have the finish product pics posted soon.
- Cab completely built and working. Been gaming on it for months now and it's pretty awesome. Vertical LCD and CPO has RGB everything.
- Custom artwork by Opt2Not is complete (AMAZING) and has been delivered though I have yet to send it to the printer. Working with this guy was such a pleasure. So prossional, skilled, creative.
- User Mike Boss is building a custom MaLa layout for me and he's incorporated some of the custom art from Opt2Not. I've seen a preview and she's a beaut!
- T-mold is here and ready for install after the artwork application.
Thanks again to OND for the inspiration to jump in and learn this stuff. I'm already thinking about another cab with a horizontal CRT w/ custom Metal Slug theme, assuming that Opt2Not will work with me again. And thanks to everyone else that has contributed to this thread and to the forum in general. I certainly couldn't have done it with you'se guys.
My plan (currently) i think is to actually jigsaw a hole in the bottom which clips or magnets on (or if i'm feeling adventurous do a recess similar to the back door on the cab), meaning if maintainence is required I simply unbolt and open
This still has the vinyl problem tho, as the vinyl wraps round... Hence the thought of jigsawing a smaller hole (tho so much bigger than the small ones on the back)QuoteMy plan (currently) i think is to actually jigsaw a hole in the bottom which clips or magnets on (or if i'm feeling adventurous do a recess similar to the back door on the cab), meaning if maintainence is required I simply unbolt and open
If I were you, I would just make the whole bottom removable (ie don't glue it). That is, if you don't want hinges. It seems stuff like taking the trackball out to clean it would be really hard through the back panel holes...
This still has the vinyl problem tho, as the vinyl wraps round... Hence the thought of jigsawing a smaller hole (tho so much bigger than the small ones on the back)QuoteMy plan (currently) i think is to actually jigsaw a hole in the bottom which clips or magnets on (or if i'm feeling adventurous do a recess similar to the back door on the cab), meaning if maintainence is required I simply unbolt and open
If I were you, I would just make the whole bottom removable (ie don't glue it). That is, if you don't want hinges. It seems stuff like taking the trackball out to clean it would be really hard through the back panel holes...
Not making any promises or nothing, but I have a mind to repair this thread and maybe even take some ownership of it. What? No. Really? Yes.
Just wanted to say a massive thanks in this thread - the machine is now finished :D
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=118612.0;attach=368993)
If you want to ask me anything about it (outside the scope of this thread) then the project thread is here: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,148501 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,148501) (tho not many project notes!!)
Sounds like an awesome idea.
I had an idea of modding bubble bobble with the street fighter sprites, but time is getting away from me these days!!
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No chance.
I have 28" monitor and had to increase width in the designs
vaderag,Thanks mate.
Do you have any helpful dimension schematic materials you made on your side to accommodate your 28" that you could send over? I still want to consider a 28" if someone has done it before.
Your cab simply came off superb. I noticed you hit time constraints and design bumps along the way but pulled through with some amazing work.
Thanks mate.
The thought did occur to me to dig it out but I'm on holiday at the moment so not possible.
I'm actually a 27" rather than 28" I think, can't quite remember but I'm 16:10 Dell monitor to get max 4:3 I could on a wide-screen
Either way, I'll try dig it out when I'm back but I do have a feeling I posted some OneDrive links further back in the thread if you have a chance to dig through before I'm back
In short tho it just required measuring my monitor, comparing to the space in the original and adjusting the central wood pieces accordingly. I would take the time to familiarise yourself anyway with each piece where it goes and what it does before cutting and building, will make everything so much easier!!
Only real delays were house moves, kids being born and nowhere to work in rainy weather. Nothing major ;)
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Hi vaderag!
Not sure if this counts as a few days ;D.
Ok so I think I'm ready to cut. I'm also using a 27" 16:10 Dell monitor. I drew a sketch of the width/height of the bezel and it turns out that I need to add 4 inches (10.6cm) of width. That said, I'm adding 4 inches of width across everything except for:
-Side Panels
-Control Panel endings L & R
Does that sound about right? No height adjustments with additions of ~4 inches(~10.6cm) where width is concerned? I'll need more MDF than the diagram designates because of this.
A few posts up I attached OND's original schematic. Sorry I forgot to save your metric conversion version (american here).
edit:
If I'm not mistaken OND didn't get a chance to cover t-molding or speakers in terms of woodcutting. You did the t-molding cut-ins and speaker holes before standing up the side the panels correct?
Hey Ond
For your game, I read you're looking at Unity... have you heard of or tried Godot? I've used godot (have a game in progress) and it's great. I found it much easier and nicer than Unity, but it depends what you have planned for the game. Might be worth at least checking it out (better license than Unity for one thing).
:cheers:
Hey Ond
For your game, I read you're looking at Unity... have you heard of or tried Godot? I've used godot (have a game in progress) and it's great. I found it much easier and nicer than Unity, but it depends what you have planned for the game. Might be worth at least checking it out (better license than Unity for one thing).
:cheers:
I've done a few games in Unity, unfortunately I lost one that was SOOOO CLOSE to completion which was an arcade basketball game you played with the trackball. I can probably be more help with music or sfx though. Fire an email if you want to chat about it!
Hi Ond!
With no wood cutting experience ever, I'm happy to say that I was able to customize the bezel on a 16:10 27" LCD by applying letterboxing covers on the width so that it fits a 480p 4:3 screen. It comes out to about a 24" 4:3 display! It looks great and I'll post pics once I have more of the wood material cut out.
Quick question. Since I'm really new to this, I don't have an eye for rounding the edges for the inside bezel area. You first mentioned to leave 3/4ths of an inch outside the edges with a jigsaw, then with the router leave 2 inches from either side the inner bezel area.
Any reason why you didn't instead give us a visual of a compass arc on these inside edges to cut around it instead of leaving estimated distances as per the metrics above? Is it because this is a judgement call in terms of how we perceive the arc should be angled? It's not a big deal but since I'm new I don't have the eye for what the compass arc should exactly look like.
edit: Attaching photo of the inner bezel arc I drew with a compass. Is that accurate? It looks like it would give me a round turn, but you'll notice the 2 inch spacing on each side. To me it's implying that my arc isn't as big as it should be, but if I were to make it rounder/larger, it'll deviate further from the original corner.
Thanks!
Been reading this thread over and over for weeks now. I'm closing in on building my OND-ish cabinet. I just pulled the trigger on a Dell IPS 32" 16:9 monitor and am wondering if it's going to be too big? Obviously OND's original plans were more for 23" to 24", but I wanted as much height as I could get. I was planning on modifying the width a bit to accommodate a 27" by increasing width by about 2", but I found the bright 32" Dell IPS for $129 and pulled the trigger. Now I'll have to go with about a 30" width....Any thoughts? Is 32" too big?
Thanks Ond. I think I figured out what I can do. I can make an access hole in the CP bottom after it curves out then use thread screws with a thin piece of wood recessed to the CP bottom to seal it after wiring. I don't intend to constantly check/update the wiring so it should work. I agree that a smooth wrap around is an ideal look.You don't need to seal it. It's inside the machine...
Thanks Ond. I think I figured out what I can do. I can make an access hole in the CP bottom after it curves out then use thread screws with a thin piece of wood recessed to the CP bottom to seal it after wiring. I don't intend to constantly check/update the wiring so it should work. I agree that a smooth wrap around is an ideal look.You don't need to seal it. It's inside the machine...
I haven't forgotten I owe you some pics, just been manic with the family!!
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Excellent, thank you! Don't mind my second question--you were able to answer it with the graphic.Yeah, one of the things I loved about this project was figuring out some of these things as I went along!
What's funny is that your past "conundrum" with the bezel leaning further back relative to the intended spec gave you the ability to do this cool little mod. I gotta figure out my own mod since I've got a different angle to work with.
Great work Tyler! Your build is well on the way. Good to see you helping him out vaderag with the learnings from your own (very nice) build.
So, ZTylerDurden717, what are you thinking of doing for your artwork? Are you doing your own or getting someone to help you? There are some very skilled artists on the forum who may be willing to help out if you want to go in that direction.
Hey Tyler, the original intent was for all joining surfaces to be angled for the 5 degree tilt using whatever tools you had. Cutting the bracing timber to meet the angle should be fine if the front of the CP sits flush. Sorry I was a bit late with my answer...just woke up ackk. ;D
Yeah for my last control panel I cheated. I tried to cut all the angles I needed at first but I had a house shaped box so the angle pieces up front needed a compound angle cut. So I got the bright idea to position my control panel base on my CNC at the angle I needed to make the surface I wanted to be flat parallel with the CNC table. Then I started up the router and used manual jogging to shave off a few mm of wood to make a nice flat plane that would be at the correct angle.
What I like about this build is that it has a rectangle control panel, that looks like it could double as a pinsim controller that could play VR pinball( https://www.tested.com/tech/gaming/569647-how-build-pinsim-virtual-reality-pinball-machine/ (https://www.tested.com/tech/gaming/569647-how-build-pinsim-virtual-reality-pinball-machine/)). Has anyone made one of these OND cabinets ,with solenoids and plunger for VR pinball?
1) Because the vinyl would cover the majority of the CP, did you not paint it black? I ask simply because there's another thread where I see your cab black while the CP wasn't.- I painted the whole lot in undercoat and only the edges in black of where the CP was sitting
2) To make the vinyl application process easier, did you not screw in the CP side pieces until you applied the vinyl on the main CP to make it easier to wrap around the side edges without the side pieces getting in the way? Was there anything unique about how/when you decided to screw in the side pieces within the steps of building?My Side Panels of the CP arent screwed - they're held on with a frame and tension clips like this but bigger - (https://encrypted-tbn0.gstatic.com/shopping?q=tbn:ANd9GcTt_IS80pL7Fvqk4DDopukywJuNx7ZJPjVBZKcfAUf9KuJnK_t03BPFniZprox_PdQk2yC9fm46Dg&usqp=CAc)
3) The main CP vinyl was one flowing piece, correct?Yes. It's not actually the whole thing thats covered, only about 3/4 but yes, one piece
4) The vinyl flows underneath into the bottom of the CP. Did you extend the bottom vinyl length so it was tucked inside the main cab (so that it wouldn't peel or someone could grip it from beneath the CP?)It does go underneath. I've stapled it for extra hold, but dont think it needs it :)
it's supposed to be 1/8" longer than the bottom panel which is probably due to the angle
When one panel is longer than the other by 1/8th, you'll get a 1/8th difference when sandwiching...
I want this thread to stay alive too. My current status:Otherwise it's ready to go. Hope to have the finish product pics posted soon.
- Cab completely built and working. Been gaming on it for months now and it's pretty awesome. Vertical LCD and CPO has RGB everything.
- Custom artwork by Opt2Not is complete (AMAZING) and has been delivered though I have yet to send it to the printer. Working with this guy was such a pleasure. So prossional, skilled, creative.
- User Mike Boss is building a custom MaLa layout for me and he's incorporated some of the custom art from Opt2Not. I've seen a preview and she's a beaut!
- T-mold is here and ready for install after the artwork application.
Thanks again to OND for the inspiration to jump in and learn this stuff. I'm already thinking about another cab with a horizontal CRT w/ custom Metal Slug theme, assuming that Opt2Not will work with me again. And thanks to everyone else that has contributed to this thread and to the forum in general. I certainly couldn't have done it with you'se guys.
I want this thread to stay alive too. My current status:Otherwise it's ready to go. Hope to have the finish product pics posted soon.
- Cab completely built and working. Been gaming on it for months now and it's pretty awesome. Vertical LCD and CPO has RGB everything.
- Custom artwork by Opt2Not is complete (AMAZING) and has been delivered though I have yet to send it to the printer. Working with this guy was such a pleasure. So prossional, skilled, creative.
- User Mike Boss is building a custom MaLa layout for me and he's incorporated some of the custom art from Opt2Not. I've seen a preview and she's a beaut!
- T-mold is here and ready for install after the artwork application.
Thanks again to OND for the inspiration to jump in and learn this stuff. I'm already thinking about another cab with a horizontal CRT w/ custom Metal Slug theme, assuming that Opt2Not will work with me again. And thanks to everyone else that has contributed to this thread and to the forum in general. I certainly couldn't have done it with you'se guys.
I really wish Gern posted his end result.
The artwork turned out really great, and would have loved to see it applied to his cabinet.
But he hasn't logged in since 2016...
(http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-TBHYfy9wpKA/UvqR8Y3FnxI/AAAAAAAAB4k/HDCc7E_u494/s1600/Donpachi_Side_FINAL+4.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-AbZo-r-ero0/UvqR8c8Fg5I/AAAAAAAAB4o/JXFn6ppklJc/s1600/Donpachi_WIP_Control_Panel_4.jpg)
(http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-SOXzDvQ_-n4/UvqR9xDqDWI/AAAAAAAAB40/PU-5n2XknOY/s1600/Donpachi_WIP_Marquee_1.jpg)
Gilrock,
Measuring the full widths of top and bottom
Top: 10 5/32:
https://imgur.com/k3e9P7h
Bottom: 10 1/32:
https://imgur.com/6ZOStYM
This is what you meant, correct? Thanks so much.
Ok I drew out the side profile in a CAD program and did some math. With the front 3.15625", back 4", bottom 10.03125", the top works out to be 10.0667" but the plans show 10.15625. He was most likely rounding to the nearest 1/32" when he posted measurements because you can't cut more accurate than that unless it's CNC. So the plans have the top about 0.08955" longer...times 32 is ~2.86. So that's just over a 1/16" longer than it needs to be. At this point I would just use a hand held belt sander and sand that top board back down flat with the back panel.
This is why sane counties work in mm ;-)
Ok I drew out the side profile in a CAD program and did some math. With the front 3.15625", back 4", bottom 10.03125", the top works out to be 10.0667" but the plans show 10.15625. He was most likely rounding to the nearest 1/32" when he posted measurements because you can't cut more accurate than that unless it's CNC. So the plans have the top about 0.08955" longer...times 32 is ~2.86. So that's just over a 1/16" longer than it needs to be. At this point I would just use a hand held belt sander and sand that top board back down flat with the back panel.
You are a legend! I thought I was taking "crazy" pills and I owe you for solving this puzzle.
So the correct "top" width should be 10.0667" which rounded to the nearest metric I should use 10.0625 (1/16th). Correct?
Well now that you got that board lying there can't you just mark a pencil line underneath the lip and use that to cut it?
Hey guys,Nice work, looks awesome!
I've been taking forever! Gosh I hope you guys are still around.
Here's a photo of the side! This cab should be done in the next 2 weeks.
Ond - this is fantastic! Ordered all components this w/e - and making a start next w/e! My first build so desperately hoping made all good decisions. Dont' know if you and/or others can help with a few q's:
Here's a photo of the side! This cab should be done in the next 2 weeks.
Seriously nice work here. Would have loved too see it on the cab as well.Thanks buddy! It was a fun art project for sure. I was working with my concept artist friend of mine on the design for this, and it really turned out great. I hope it eventually makes it onto a cabinet, Gern paid a high price for this artwork, it would be a shame to go to waste. :cheers:
Hey guys,I really like the style of artwork here. Simple design, bold shapes and colors. Fantastic. :applaud:
I've been taking forever! Gosh I hope you guys are still around.
Here's a photo of the side! This cab should be done in the next 2 weeks.
Ond - this is fantastic! Ordered all components this w/e - and making a start next w/e! My first build so desperately hoping made all good decisions. Dont' know if you and/or others can help with a few q's:Here's a photo of the side! This cab should be done in the next 2 weeks.
:laugh2:
Mine's still not finished. Presently coding new Front End. Feature creep city...
Seriously nice work here. Would have loved too see it on the cab as well.Thanks buddy! It was a fun art project for sure. I was working with my concept artist friend of mine on the design for this, and it really turned out great. I hope it eventually makes it onto a cabinet, Gern paid a high price for this artwork, it would be a shame to go to waste. :cheers:Hey guys,I really like the style of artwork here. Simple design, bold shapes and colors. Fantastic. :applaud:
I've been taking forever! Gosh I hope you guys are still around.
Here's a photo of the side! This cab should be done in the next 2 weeks.
Hey guys,Nice work, looks awesome!
I've been taking forever! Gosh I hope you guys are still around.
Here's a photo of the side! This cab should be done in the next 2 weeks.
Sent from my F1 using Tapatalk
I absolutely LOVE it!! Great work Tyler. :cheers:
At the end of the day it's whatever makes you happySeriously nice work here. Would have loved too see it on the cab as well.Thanks buddy! It was a fun art project for sure. I was working with my concept artist friend of mine on the design for this, and it really turned out great. I hope it eventually makes it onto a cabinet, Gern paid a high price for this artwork, it would be a shame to go to waste. :cheers:Hey guys,I really like the style of artwork here. Simple design, bold shapes and colors. Fantastic. :applaud:
I've been taking forever! Gosh I hope you guys are still around.
Here's a photo of the side! This cab should be done in the next 2 weeks.Hey guys,Nice work, looks awesome!
I've been taking forever! Gosh I hope you guys are still around.
Here's a photo of the side! This cab should be done in the next 2 weeks.
Sent from my F1 using TapatalkI absolutely LOVE it!! Great work Tyler. :cheers:
You guys have no idea how good your comments make me feel. Imma give you guys a heads up that the rest of the art has a stark contrast with the side panel art because I had a change of mind of the theme I had in mind. Nevertheless I think it looks cool anyway.
Hey Alistair, now is the time to start your very own build, especially as I'm gearing up to add new content to the thread, speaking of which, the Metric plans are now available for download on Page 1 in PDF. ARTWORK NEXT!
Ond
Love this Thread! This is what my girlfriend wants for her post cancer reward. So, while my bartop isn't finished, how can I say no to that! Is there plans all put together or just throughout the thread? I just may be totally blind and cannot see the cabinet for the arcade (trees and forest bad dad joke), but i cannot find it anywhere.
Hey Alistair, now is the time to start your very own build, especially as I'm gearing up to add new content to the thread, speaking of which, the Metric plans are now available for download on Page 1 in PDF. ARTWORK NEXT!
Ond
It looks like at one time there was a pdf of them. If anyone could share or point me in the right direction, I and my GF would be truly appreciated.
Love this Thread! This is what my girlfriend wants for her post cancer reward. So, while my bartop isn't finished, how can I say no to that! Is there plans all put together or just throughout the thread? I just may be totally blind and cannot see the cabinet for the arcade (trees and forest bad dad joke), but i cannot find it anywhere.
Hey Alistair, now is the time to start your very own build, especially as I'm gearing up to add new content to the thread, speaking of which, the Metric plans are now available for download on Page 1 in PDF. ARTWORK NEXT!
Ond
It looks like at one time there was a pdf of them. If anyone could share or point me in the right direction, I and my GF would be truly appreciated.
Hey there. Do you still need this?
Here you go - mine had a few alterations. I wanted the CP within the width of the cab - but you should be able to work from these if you want it as per the original design. I think I also changed the angles on the marquee box too.
@Stigzler I saw you uploaded a sketchbook file up awhile ago, do you still have that file? I tried to download it but 404!
Zilka
Hey guys,
I've been taking forever! Gosh I hope you guys are still around.
Here's a photo of the side! This cab should be done in the next 2 weeks.
Hey guys,
I've been taking forever! Gosh I hope you guys are still around.
Here's a photo of the side! This cab should be done in the next 2 weeks.
Hey ZTyler,
I was just perusing this whole thread, as I am currently using most of this cabinet design to make 2 new cabs. Just wanted to tell you your sideart is the sickest graphic I have seen in a while. Just perfect for an arcade machine. Well done!! Is there a finished cabinet to share? I'd love to see how your CP ties in.
Cheers,
Rob
Attached. The balltop on 2P is unscrewed but it's a violet/magenta on 1P.Looks fantastic mate, great work!
Attached. The balltop on 2P is unscrewed but it's a violet/magenta on 1P.Looks fantastic mate, great work!
Sent from my M2007J20CG using Tapatalk
Ah don't, I just used the knowledge from everyone else here! Team effort!!Attached. The balltop on 2P is unscrewed but it's a violet/magenta on 1P.Looks fantastic mate, great work!
Sent from my M2007J20CG using Tapatalk
couldn't have done it without your help! thanks so much.
Hey gang. I am about to finish up a pair of cabinets based on this design, but I will post a separate thread with details and more pics on them. Mine are "widebody" versions with 32" monitors...but the side profile, CP design with side wings, and 2-layered front panel with LEDs in them are taken right from this design. I really love the Metropolis original concept pics, and also the several versions you guys have posted here since.
So, the one thing that makes sense to share specifically on this thread is the CP box construction. Several posts were asking about how to access the CP, etc, and there were some ideas but I think mine might benefit people going forward.
The tough spot with this CP is that it has the cool solid front where the graphic rolls over the edge uninterrupted, and it has the side wings on it. This makes it tougher to do a normal hinged design like a lot of other CP designs.
I solved this with mine and in the process my CP is one of the most accessible I have seen. It was just a joy to work on during the wiring phase and it will be super easy to open up and tweak.
What I did:
- used a double-thickness of 3/4" hardwood (hard maple in my case) to attach to the front/bottom of the CP panel at the 5 degree bevel angle. This extra width of surface area
makes a super solid connection to the top panel. It also makes a much better material to allow the hinge screws to bite into.
- used a 30" continuous hinge (piano-hinge) to connect the bottom of the support to the bottom of the control panel box, which is then secured to the cabinet with screws.
- attached the side wings from the inside using pocket screws on the CP top and the front support hardwood piece.
The result is a CP which opens out totally flat and sits right about table height...perfect to work on sitting in a chair in front of it. The side wings make nice handles to use to open the CP. I might add some strong magnets on the inside of the CP to secure it, but it feels pretty solid just being closed with it's own weight.
Also, I moved the glass/bezel further inward to create a recessed 1 3/4" tray behind the CP for the admin buttons and to stash a pile of tokens, phone, game controller, etc. Got that piece from the 'Lakeside Arcade' thread. Very handy little feature.
Here are some pics of the CPs to illustrate.
Hey gang. I am about to finish up a pair of cabinets based on this design, but I will post a separate thread with details and more pics on them. Mine are "widebody" versions with 32" monitors...but the side profile, CP design with side wings, and 2-layered front panel with LEDs in them are taken right from this design. I really love the Metropolis original concept pics, and also the several versions you guys have posted here since.
So, the one thing that makes sense to share specifically on this thread is the CP box construction. Several posts were asking about how to access the CP, etc, and there were some ideas but I think mine might benefit people going forward.
The tough spot with this CP is that it has the cool solid front where the graphic rolls over the edge uninterrupted, and it has the side wings on it. This makes it tougher to do a normal hinged design like a lot of other CP designs.
I solved this with mine and in the process my CP is one of the most accessible I have seen. It was just a joy to work on during the wiring phase and it will be super easy to open up and tweak.
What I did:
- used a double-thickness of 3/4" hardwood (hard maple in my case) to attach to the front/bottom of the CP panel at the 5 degree bevel angle. This extra width of surface area
makes a super solid connection to the top panel. It also makes a much better material to allow the hinge screws to bite into.
- used a 30" continuous hinge (piano-hinge) to connect the bottom of the support to the bottom of the control panel box, which is then secured to the cabinet with screws.
- attached the side wings from the inside using pocket screws on the CP top and the front support hardwood piece.
The result is a CP which opens out totally flat and sits right about table height...perfect to work on sitting in a chair in front of it. The side wings make nice handles to use to open the CP. I might add some strong magnets on the inside of the CP to secure it, but it feels pretty solid just being closed with it's own weight.
Also, I moved the glass/bezel further inward to create a recessed 1 3/4" tray behind the CP for the admin buttons and to stash a pile of tokens, phone, game controller, etc. Got that piece from the 'Lakeside Arcade' thread. Very handy little feature.
Here are some pics of the CPs to illustrate.
That is badass.
So is there a latch on the backside/bezel side of the CP so that people can't grab onto the side wings and lift up the top by accident?
My new restored side art. Side 'A'. Side 'B' with Maria next.
My finished 'Metropolis' inspired cabinets, 32" widebody variants. Build thread and many more pics here:Love it!
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,165054.0.html
Thanks for OND for the design and all the other people on this thread for your versions to use as inspiration.
I just really love the side profile of this design, as well as the 'winged' control panel. Also the 2 layered door design really gives it some visual appeal, especially on a wide 32" cabinet to break up the space.
The white cabinet really pops with the LEDs in the door gap.
I am still deciding if I will add a little more graphics to it or leave as-is. I was thinking something on the top door layer around the coin door. And maybe do the CP wings and something on the speaker panel. Let me know your opinions.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=387758;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=387759;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=387761;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=387809;image)
Cheers.
Love it!
Love the keyboard tray - does that hide away?
Sent from my M2007J20CG using Tapatalk
Just on the quiet for Metropolis fans, shhhhh (no one reads stickys anyway :lol ) I'm planning on beginning my own build of this design over June. I'll review the original plans, build procedures etc. Coming soon to a Project Announcements board near you "METROPOLIS'.
Just on the quiet for Metropolis fans, shhhhh (no one reads stickys anyway :lol ) I'm planning on beginning my own build of this design over June. I'll review the original plans, build procedures etc. Coming soon to a Project Announcements board near you "METROPOLIS'.
Don't you have 7 other projects to finish first? :)
Hello,
Can anyone point me to where a hi-res version of the plan is? All I can find is the image in Reply #61. It has the dimensions, but the image is blurry. I see a reference to a PDF, but haven't found that either.
Hi I've been lurking on here for a while now, and I at this point I feel confident of showing my Cab.
Things left to do:
replace current DIY spinner with a proper button hole one.
Get Monitor rotation properly working.
Thank you OND and everyone else on this forum for inspiring me.
Here is an image
Very clean build. Congratulations! That's an interesting take on the screen...is it manually rotated in the cutout?
:cheers:
Ond.
It's supposed to work automaticly.There are a number of monitor rotation related threads in the Automated Projects (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/board,51.0.html) sub-forum.
But I haven't worked out the kinks yet. it will not rotate past a certain point. any suggestions would be welcome
Hi I've been lurking on here for a while now, and I at this point I feel confident of showing my Cab.
Things left to do:
replace current DIY spinner with a proper button hole one.
Get Monitor rotation properly working.
Thank you OND and everyone else on this forum for inspiring me.
Here is an image