The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: Drnick on June 12, 2018, 03:42:58 am
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Putting this here now although may be a few weeks before any wood gets cut. (Got a few things to finish off in garden first). I Will be looking for Opinionions/recommendations on this one.
I've had a Bartop for a few years now, but it just doesn't get the love it should do. Because of this I am going to sell the bartop and start again with a full size unit. For this build I have decided to go with Jakobuds MVS4 plans but I will be adding another row of buttons giving the standard streetfighter layout with extra button. I also plan to take about 10" off the back of the unit, I will keep the general shape so the only difference will be the height of the vertical piece at back.
The plan is building from ply or similar and then laminating. (Any recommendations for close match to Neo Geo Red available in the UK?)
To make an active marquee I am going to use a 25" Widescreen and for the main screen area I wanted to be able to play both horizontal and vertical games as close to original sizing as possible, to do this I am planning on using a 43" 4k screen mounted vertically (Approx 1/2 screen should be visible), This will then require custom resolutions and layouts creating which may take some time. (Any recommendations on what Video card/software is capable of doing this kind of thing easily)
As for art, I think I will just go with the standard NeoGeo MVS transfers resized a bit due to the machine being on the adkins diet, and also use the standard control panel art with relevant modifications for credit buttons and the like.
Ideally I would like to install a coindoor for the aesthetics (Anyone got any good links for UK suppliers?).
I'll add some images and stuff later, gotta go to work now :hissy: :hissy:
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I don't see the benefit of using a 4K display unless you have an extra one in a box collecting dust. A 1080p display will work fine with nearly identical results.
love the MVS4 cab shape and look forward to following along
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The price difference between non 4k and 4k is negligible and it should allow many more options for resolutions. I'm hoping to get a viewable area about 2000x2160 (So can still have full HD displayed in the visible area) If I use a standard full HD I would be looking at about 1000 x 1080, Which is fine for most emulators and stuff but not so good for music videos (Although to be honest I could always display those on the Marquee monitor :) See attached modified Jakobud plans, may be a tiny bit off but should be good enough.
Green is 24" Monitor from work, without stand is 13" High, Black underneath will be speaker location
Red is 43" Screen (Will purchase) Looking at the sight lines I should have approx 22x22" visable screen area (Maybe a touch more).
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OK I have been looking into Laminating options, I don't have a legit Neo-geo so can't compare, but looking around the Fire red seems to be a fairly good match. I have found a company in the UK that can supply Blaze red as follows. If anyone thinks one of the other options would be better let me know.
Red = https://www.morland-uk.com/shop/shop-fit-out/laminate-sheets/formica-hpl-laminate-sheet-f2824-blazered.html?___SID=U (https://www.morland-uk.com/shop/shop-fit-out/laminate-sheets/formica-hpl-laminate-sheet-f2824-blazered.html?___SID=U)
And now for one of those Opinionion moments, Should I use Textured or untextured for the black?
Textured Black = https://www.morland-uk.com/shop/shop-fit-out/laminate-sheets/morland-hpl-laminate-sheet-black104.html?___SID=U (https://www.morland-uk.com/shop/shop-fit-out/laminate-sheets/morland-hpl-laminate-sheet-black104.html?___SID=U)
Matt Black = https://www.morland-uk.com/shop/shop-fit-out/laminate-sheets/formica-hpl-laminate-sheet-f2253-diamondblack.html (https://www.morland-uk.com/shop/shop-fit-out/laminate-sheets/formica-hpl-laminate-sheet-f2253-diamondblack.html)
Alternatively should I use osb/mdf bonded board and then paint. Personally I like the Idea of Laminating but get the feeling if I cock it up then it will get pretty expensive pretty fast :)
For speakers I have a spare set of Logitech X530's I figure I should be able to fit them underneath the monitor firing out front, I will then have the centre speaker behind the monitor firing down and the 2 rear speakers can be located left and right of the centre pedestal area. I'll have to remove the circuit board from the front speaker and wire that in elsewhere so I can still have access to headphone options and volume control. I do have a spare logitech zx5400 set but A) the speakers are too large to fit in the available space, and B) I don't need 310W of power in an arcade machine, not even if that machine was Guitar hero or Dance Dance :) :) :)
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Coindoor, looking into coindoors and can't really find anything readily available in the UK, I have though found the following
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Arcade-Machine-Cabinet-Door-2-Coin-Slot-Comparison-Mech-MAME-JAMMA/362343865733?hash=item545d609d85:g:QKgAAOSwNNVbF6Eh (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Arcade-Machine-Cabinet-Door-2-Coin-Slot-Comparison-Mech-MAME-JAMMA/362343865733?hash=item545d609d85:g:QKgAAOSwNNVbF6Eh)
I can then hang one of these underneath
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Arcade-Game-Metal-Coin-Door-Access-For-Coin-Acceptor-Doll-Machines-Accessories/202336748172?hash=item2f1c35c28c:g:MEQAAOSwfp9bGrnj (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Arcade-Game-Metal-Coin-Door-Access-For-Coin-Acceptor-Doll-Machines-Accessories/202336748172?hash=item2f1c35c28c:g:MEQAAOSwfp9bGrnj)
Alternatively I could get a panel made up and use 2 of these but it would cost more and require a custom panel to be made so definitely leaning towards click and forget :)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Front-Plate-Assembly-With-Cradle-For-3-5-Arcade-Coin-Mechanisms/371961635110?hash=item569aa42126:g:DWgAAOSwjjpa9EYw (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Front-Plate-Assembly-With-Cradle-For-3-5-Arcade-Coin-Mechanisms/371961635110?hash=item569aa42126:g:DWgAAOSwjjpa9EYw)
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Nice thread.
I would have gone with the matte black, to match the matte red.
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Yep the more I look at it the more I think Matte all round will be the best choice.
I figure that building this machine would be possible using a straight edge and a skill saw, both of which I already have, But I can see a few places where I am going to need to make some interesting cuts on angles so I have decided that I may as well add to the tool kit and have purchased the following.
https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01LYDELEC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01LYDELEC/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
Having looked at reviews for pretty much every table saw under 200 and coming to the conclusion that they were all going to be a little bit rubbish I moved up to the under 300 and the above came out a clear winner for the hobbiest. I feel that it is a fair investment as I do have to make some storage for an upstairs bedroom which will have all sorts of weird angles involved.
I already have 2 Routers, a jigsaw, 2 skillsaws, a 210mm Sliding Mitre saw, more drills and bits then I can shake a stick at, a portable Drill press and I even have some 900mm clamps so I think that's all the tools I will need. (Actually scratch that, I really need to get/make a router table). I have access to an A0 plotter at work so should be able to print out the sides to full size.
Controls,
I want the controls to be mostly authentic to the style of the machine, Looks like either competitions, ultimates or IL Eurostyle, I am currently favouring the IL
https://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/il-eurostyle-joystick-with-cherry-microswitches.html (https://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/il-eurostyle-joystick-with-cherry-microswitches.html)
Buttons will be standard colour layout with BCD on both top and bottom rows, I will have an additional button on control panel for exit thus having 4 instead of standard 3.
https://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/white-il-concave-arcade-start-button.html (https://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/white-il-concave-arcade-start-button.html)
https://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/il-psl-h-concave-arcade-button.html (https://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/il-psl-h-concave-arcade-button.html)
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Join UKVAC and ask if anyone has them spare or at least know where to get them
http://www.ukvac.com/forum/forums.html (http://www.ukvac.com/forum/forums.html)
Coindoor, looking into coindoors and can't really find anything readily available in the UK, I have though found the following
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Arcade-Machine-Cabinet-Door-2-Coin-Slot-Comparison-Mech-MAME-JAMMA/362343865733?hash=item545d609d85:g:QKgAAOSwNNVbF6Eh (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Universal-Arcade-Machine-Cabinet-Door-2-Coin-Slot-Comparison-Mech-MAME-JAMMA/362343865733?hash=item545d609d85:g:QKgAAOSwNNVbF6Eh)
I can then hang one of these underneath
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Arcade-Game-Metal-Coin-Door-Access-For-Coin-Acceptor-Doll-Machines-Accessories/202336748172?hash=item2f1c35c28c:g:MEQAAOSwfp9bGrnj (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Arcade-Game-Metal-Coin-Door-Access-For-Coin-Acceptor-Doll-Machines-Accessories/202336748172?hash=item2f1c35c28c:g:MEQAAOSwfp9bGrnj)
Alternatively I could get a panel made up and use 2 of these but it would cost more and require a custom panel to be made so definitely leaning towards click and forget :)
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Front-Plate-Assembly-With-Cradle-For-3-5-Arcade-Coin-Mechanisms/371961635110?hash=item569aa42126:g:DWgAAOSwjjpa9EYw (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Front-Plate-Assembly-With-Cradle-For-3-5-Arcade-Coin-Mechanisms/371961635110?hash=item569aa42126:g:DWgAAOSwjjpa9EYw)
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This looks like it is going to be sick. Very cool idea with the monitor to get a larger 4:3 screen! :cheers:
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This looks like it is going to be sick. Very cool idea with the monitor to get a larger 4:3 screen! :cheers:
Thanks, Its not exactly groundbreaking as it's been done before, But I was sort of surprised to see nobody had done an mvs4 with active marquee before. The idea of slimming down did come from other users here though, sorry can't remember who exactly.
Anyway due to World cup, Shed Building, Handling Probate for my mothers estate, and my own glacier like speed of movement I haven't done anything else with this except for play around with the art a bit. See below draft of where I am at currently, It's a very simple art set as per the original machine. I'm using Gimp/Inkscape for the art and was hoping to just find a set of vectors, For some reason I didn't come up with anything that I could easily use, so far I have spent an evening redrawing all the lines, I am fairly sure that as the thickness of the center lines shrink that the gap between the stripes increased so I just increased by 1 line thickness for each gap.
What I am currently finding issue with though is creating a border around the buttons that I like the look of, I'm happy with the BCD area, its the break out into the A area that I am not a current fan of. Any assistance with the border and getting the Logo in Vector format would be greatly appreciated. Also if anyone knows what font would be closest to the original font used that information would also be accepted with my eternal thanks :) (Actually fixing the buttons may be as simple as adjusting the angle of the dangle to the same 30 Degrees as the art work lines).
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I would ditch the A button altogether and curve the 6 button setup. Something like this:
(https://1.bp.blogspot.com/_CXccc8RIW9I/R0NUN9sll_I/AAAAAAAAAjU/fHg2Fr4RTho/w1200-h630-p-k-no-nu/ultimate+button+layout.png)
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I would ditch the A button altogether and curve the 6 button setup.
I can't do that to a Neo-geo clone :)
That layout is basically the same layout I have on my bartop and whilst when I was laying it out originally I thought was the best layout to use,
But I recently played on a straight street fighter layout and oddly found it so much more comfortable to play :)
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OK I was pointed to some Vector art, Ended up merging that with work I had already done and now have the following.
Any thoughts? I'm happy enough with it which is all that ultimately matters, But its nice to get opinions, even if I then ignore them entirely :)
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Your button outline looks like an upside down penis on Lorena Bobbits cutting board.
Is that intentional?
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Any thoughts?
1. The button surround shape is a wierd mashup of a narrow rounded rectangle and the wide pointy-curve of the original. :dizzy:
Pick one style/thickness and go with that.
2. Consider bringing the lower left button a bit closer so the center-to-center distance is the same as the horizontal/vertical distance between the other buttons.
Scott
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Your button outline looks like an upside down penis on Lorena Bobbits cutting board.
Is that intentional?
No, But I do see what you mean :) :) :) I think it's our fascination at work for leaving drawn penis' in random locations creeping into my subconscious (our favourite was the one left in the boardroom, drawn on an a3 flip chart board about 20 pages in so it didn't get seen for a few months)
Any thoughts?
1. The button surround shape is a wierd mashup of a narrow rounded rectangle and the wide pointy-curve of the original. :dizzy:
Pick one style/thickness and go with that.
2. Consider bringing the lower left button a bit closer so the center-to-center distance is the same as the horizontal/vertical distance between the other buttons.
Scott
Thats what I need, something I can actually work with. I shall give it a go :)
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Watching with interest - v v interested to see how the marquee/2nd screen works out. I really like the idea of the marquee changing with the game (though it's costly) but using it as the top screen for games like punch out and the like as well would work really well I'm sure. Fitting it all into the cab is the challenge but sure you've already sussed that.
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Hey ho. Been away a while..
This looks like it could be pretty cool. I like the shape a lot.
I went with matt laminate a while back for a cabinet and really like it. There's definitely a slight texture to it which is nice.
And 4k all the way if you're going for a large screen. If you're using game bezels they'll come out a lot clearer and running any of the shaders will make the game screen look better too.
If you go for that IL joystick let me know how you get on with it. I'm looking for a new stick for my Blip cab and that's much more the type of stick I grew up with :)
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:o
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:o
You can't blame me for that, its the actual vector art shadow from a neogeo machine :)
Anyway, lets try this again, how about this one.
(Yes I know that the buttons don't line up etc, but the above is a draft from which I can then get all lined up straight) etc :)
I think I'll line the top row of buttons up with the joystick by bringing all the buttons down Hopefully It doesn't affect palm space too much.
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OK As soon as I revisited the buttons it all became a little bit clearer and simpler to deal with :) I think I will stick with this one :laugh2: :laugh2:
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OK As soon as I revisited the buttons it all became a little bit clearer and simpler to deal with :) I think I will stick with this one :laugh2: :laugh2:
This one is the best looking.
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OK As soon as I revisited the buttons it all became a little bit clearer and simpler to deal with :) I think I will stick with this one :laugh2: :laugh2:
This one is the best looking.
I agree but I think it could still be better. Why not curve the buttons? You'd get the bottom row for ABCD but it would be more comfortable to play...
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I think I will stick with this one
The outline looks pretty good, but will that layout feel good?
Have you made a cardboard test panel yet?
Finger placement: Thumb on A/ring-finger on D or index-finger on A/pinky on D?
If you use thumb on A and the top row for B thru D, that layout might work.
If you use the bottom row with thumb on A, it seems like the stretch would be uncomfortable unless you move A down a bit. :dunno
Ergonomics first, then artwork/labeling.
Scott
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[This one is the best looking.
I agree but I think it could still be better. Why not curve the buttons? You'd get the bottom row for ABCD but it would be more comfortable to play...
@Locke141 Thanks, I've updated the image again with the latest updates. @Javeryh Nope, got the curved layout on my bartop and I find the Street fighter layout more comfortable to play.
The outline looks pretty good, but will that layout feel good?
Have you made a cardboard test panel yet?
Finger placement: Thumb on A/ring-finger on D or index-finger on A/pinky on D?
If you use thumb on A and the top row for B thru D, that layout might work.
If you use the bottom row with thumb on A, it seems like the stretch would be uncomfortable unless you move A down a bit. :dunno
Ergonomics first, then artwork/labeling.
Scott
If using A button then B-C-D from top row would be the ones to use : As for comfort a printed sheet feels comfortable. Thumb on A and next 3 fingers on B/C/D :) I will do a test panel before finalising art, The joy of what I have done so far though is it is all separate layers at 300DPI so I can just move and adjust accordingly, I'm getting the hang of Inkscape again after all this time :)
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Unless someone can see something blatantly obvious that needs fixing this is all I am going to do with the control panel ::) ::) ::)
Anyone know the size of the segmented credit panels, also anyone know of a way of sending them information as credits are input (Would be nice to have them go down as games played to, (Maybe when Credit button pressed they increase and when start button is pressed they decrease) Must be a way of doing that safely with relays or something :) Will have a hunt on google to see if anyone's done anything similar.
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OK it looks like an Arduinio or Atmega and some of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7-segment-LED-Display-Single-Double-Quad-ideal-for-Arduino-UK-Seller-Freepost/152508668087?hash=item23823998b7:m:m045Y_NlHiR6BV0lS_7F9Jg (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/7-segment-LED-Display-Single-Double-Quad-ideal-for-Arduino-UK-Seller-Freepost/152508668087?hash=item23823998b7:m:m045Y_NlHiR6BV0lS_7F9Jg) should get me what I want. Will have to read up on a bit of coding, If anyone is good with this kind of thing and can let me know everything I would need to order to achieve this. I could just as easily edit the art and have 19 one side and 73 the other (Or something similar) But I think if I'm going to be going with the active marquee and this big monitor in vertical mode (May not bother with 4k as have seen a crazy deal on a Full HD LG Display monitor which is designed to be hung in Portrait mode, Going to go give it a test to see how it does with gaming. If it is good it will save me about £200 off the total build cost :)
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And time for any opinions,
Do I go with LED RGB Buttons?
Or do I go with LED Single Colour Buttons?
Or do I go with Standard R/Y/G/B Buttons?
My Heart says LED RGB, My head Says LED and my missus says if I must go with anything then go with R/Y/G/B
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And time for any opinions,
Do I go with LED RGB Buttons?
Or do I go with LED Single Colour Buttons?
Or do I go with Standard R/Y/G/B Buttons?
My Heart says LED RGB, My head Says LED and my missus says if I must go with anything then go with R/Y/G/B
Haha! Unlucky you with the missus! My wife made me get LED' s. Her exact quote was "If you're gonna do it, do it right!"
As for your build, I think the Spectra Eclipse in red from GGG would look awesome!
https://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=73&products_id=408
Sent from my SM-J320R4 using Tapatalk
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If I were building a Neo Geo I would use convex competition buttons.
In this case RGB presents a distinct advantage, since you're mashing multiple layouts together. If there's a justification for RGB controls it's a seven-button layout on a Neo Geo.
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If I were building a Neo Geo I would use convex competition buttons.
In this case RGB presents a distinct advantage, since you're mashing multiple layouts together. If there's a justification for RGB controls it's a seven-button layout on a Neo Geo.
We need a thumbs up Emoticon in here :) This is the kind of thinking I can use to counter any monetary issues the wife has. Mind you the amount her Disney infatuation costs me a year I would be able to build this with 4k OLED Screens and still be on the light side of the scales :)
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costs me a year
This indicates that you bring in the income. Why do you have to justify your expenditures for something as trivial as blinky buttons?
Assert your fiduciary authority. Spend the extra couple dollars boldly and don't ask permission or offer justification.
By the way, convex blinky buttons are garbage.
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costs me a year
This indicates that you bring in the income. Why do you have to justify your expenditures for something as trivial as blinky buttons?
Assert your fiduciary authority. Spend the extra couple dollars boldly and don't ask permission or offer justification.
By the way, convex blinky buttons are garbage.
Check, No Convex Blinky Buttons for Mike, Don't get me wrong I don't have to justify my expenses to her indoors, But I do have to deal with her trying to curb my tendancy to just spend for the sake of spending :) What would you recommend as buttons Mostly playing Fighters with some SHMUP action :) (I think for anything else I may as well install one of my spare 21" 4-3s in Vertical mode to my current bartop set the joysticks to 4 way mode and strip the playlist right back to 4way vertical games only)
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Now you're talkin'. I am much more interested in the vertical bartop. Get yourself a nice leaf switch 4 way stick. Get some leaf switch buttons.
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Now you're talkin'. I am much more interested in the vertical bartop. Get yourself a nice leaf switch 4 way stick. Get some leaf switch buttons.
Roger that, Looks like I can get the following joystick and 6 buttons for less then £30 so thats a bonus
https://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/leaf-switch-ball-top-arcade-joystick.html (https://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/leaf-switch-ball-top-arcade-joystick.html)
https://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/Gold-Leaf-Arcade-Button.html (https://www.arcadeworlduk.com/products/Gold-Leaf-Arcade-Button.html) (Anyone use these and can advise if they are any good?)
I'll look to swap out the left player side and leave the other side with the Mag Plus and the standard clicky buttons.
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I don't see the benefit of using a 4K display unless you have an extra one in a box collecting dust. A 1080p display will work fine with nearly identical results.
The one perk I can think of is that your bezel art can have very readable instructions and movelists without as much graphic design work. (I got everything on bezels readable on Mimic at 1080x1080, but only narrowly, and often had to reformat them to make that happen.)
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I went and had a look at the LG Pro and whilst it was perfect for still images, and pretty damned good for videos it was pants for gaming. sooooo much lag :) Back to 4K again. I've seen a Samsung UHD for silly moneys as it has a vertical line on the screen (I'm hoping its in the top or bottom 3rd of the screen, either of which can be hidden below the visible area).
Back on the Art, Anyone know somewhere that does the SNK/MVS transfers for the sides of the machine?
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Hopefully ordering a leaf joystick and some goldleaf buttons for the Bartop will placate Mike A for the information that is to come.
I have decided on the buttons for the machine and I am going down the route that Nephasth took for his Run and gun mame machine. I shall be installing Translucent buttons with RGB lighting and black plungers, Not sure if I will go down the Nephring road for the joysticks though.
So to finalise my controls I will be going with an Ipac Ultimate, 18 x Happs Translucent with RGB and 18 x Happs in Black. I actually prefer the look of the Ultralux Translucent but don't really like the buttons themselves. For the joyticks I shall be going with the Jsticks (Battop) instead of the Il's originally planned. I'm beginning to figure with this one I may as well go big or go home, and as I am already home :)
As for the control panel I have sent details of the control panel round to a few metal working shops to see if can get it laser cut.
Related to the plan for RGB is getting everything wired nicely, So once again I shall take a lead from others and go down the molex route, Only being a cheapskate its sort of a molex clone :)
Housings
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/4958975/
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/6802120/
Connectors
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/4959653/
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/4959631/
What I am having a problem getting my head around is the right Crimp and Die set, If someone who understands all of this wiring gubbins can help me out here and find a ratchet crimp and die (available in the UK) that would do those pins , It could be that I am missing something simple, but the recommended tools for the crimps almost cost more than the rest of the machine build is going to cost :)
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Hopefully ordering a leaf joystick and some goldleaf buttons for the Bartop will placate Mike A for the information that is to come.
I have decided on the buttons for the machine and I am going down the route that Nephasth took for his Run and gun mame machine. I shall be installing Translucent buttons with RGB lighting and black plungers, Not sure if I will go down the Nephring road for the joysticks though.
So to finalise my controls I will be going with an Ipac Ultimate, 18 x Happs Translucent with RGB and 18 x Happs in Black. I actually prefer the look of the Ultralux Translucent but don't really like the buttons themselves. For the joyticks I shall be going with the Jsticks (Battop) instead of the Il's originally planned. I'm beginning to figure with this one I may as well go big or go home, and as I am already home :)
As for the control panel I have sent details of the control panel round to a few metal working shops to see if can get it laser cut.
Related to the plan for RGB is getting everything wired nicely, So once again I shall take a lead from others and go down the molex route, Only being a cheapskate its sort of a molex clone :)
Housings
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/4958975/
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/6802120/
Connectors
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/4959653/
https://uk.rs-online.com/web/p/products/4959631/
What I am having a problem getting my head around is the right Crimp and Die set, If someone who understands all of this wiring gubbins can help me out here and find a ratchet crimp and die (available in the UK) that would do those pins , It could be that I am missing something simple, but the recommended tools for the crimps almost cost more than the rest of the machine build is going to cost :)
I end up using my single h crimp hand tool more than my double h crimp ratchet tool. With the double, you ---fudgesicle--- up the crimp if your not dead on center. The single, I insert the crimp until the sheath wings stop on my tool and then squeeze. Perfect every time.
Ps I would ditch the tons of buttons and stick to 4. There’s tons of 4 button games to keep you busy in every genre of playing. It looks silly on a Neo Geo.
Check out my attractmode layout called mvscomplete. I thought of doing an lcd monitor for marquee and integrating it into theme, but ---my bottom--- is broke.
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I end up using my single h crimp hand tool more than my double h crimp ratchet tool. With the double, you ---fudgesicle--- up the crimp if your not dead on center. The single, I insert the crimp until the sheath wings stop on my tool and then squeeze. Perfect every time.
Ps I would ditch the tons of buttons and stick to 4. There’s tons of 4 button games to keep you busy in every genre of playing. It looks silly on a Neo Geo.
Check out my attractmode layout called mvscomplete. I thought of doing an lcd monitor for marquee and integrating it into theme, but ---my bottom--- is broke.
Thanks for that, Nephsath was able to help me out with the right kind of crimper, Managed to find one UK side along with a bunch of terminals for less than £25 :laugh2: :laugh2:
I Ended up spending about £100 on the Ratchet tool and connectors, a decent wirestripper, 100Mtrs of wire, (Almost went all Black, but will go RGB-BL for the RGBS and Yellow/Black for all other controls, Also got heatshrink tubing, 4.8mm quick disconnects. Currently hunting a decent router table insert so I can make a router table panel to fit the table saw and sourcing the Particleboard/OSB for the actual build :)
I have knocked up a very basic cutting plan and it looks like to get the majority of the machine built from 3 sheets of 8ft b 4ft 3/4" OSB
I should hopefully have the shed and the Garden fence all sorted this weekend after which I can dedicate some time to this build :)
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Dang it, lost post as tried to attach invalid file format. Lets try this again.
I didn't get the fence done because uncovered a ground wasp nest, chemical warfare has begun and hopefully extermination will be complete this weekend, If not then falling back to Fire (Although this will be a last resort as will be a little bit dangerous).
I have created a proper cut sheet (Accurate to within 5/100's inch) which I need to replicate into Freecad, I then need to learn how to use Freecad to build this thing virtually. I am sure that I have to adjust the sizing on some things, Others I have left slightly over sized as unsure exact sizing needed. Creating this virtually first should eliminate these problems.
I also took some time to create a custom coin insert, I plan on getting some tokens for this machine so noted tokens only.
And now the cut lists and insert :)
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Ground wasps? Pour some kerosene down the hole at night and light it up.
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Ground wasps? Pour some kerosene down the hole at night and light it up.
If chemical warfare hasn't completed the job, that is the plan. The issue is there is a lot of dry tinder under the hedge (6" deep dead twigs/leaves etc) where they are, that could easily catch and then the hedge would go up, then I have a problem on my hands. So as mentioned previously fire is definitely the last resort and will involve a few buddies and 3 water hoses setup and ready to go. (I know petrol floats on water but it will put out the burning leaves)
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Well the chemical warfare seems to be failing, its killing hundreds but many more survive :hissy: :hissy: Fire will progress this weekend. On a brighter note I have finished with the shed and have catalogued all my tools, damn I have a lot of tools :) Anyway wood has been ordered and will be with me beginning of next week. So in the meantime I have been re-learning Sketchup, haven't used it since I started design of the jukebox topper about 5 years ago or more. The results of this are shown below, I now have the fun task of breaking the 3d back down into 2d and creating a new cutlist, I was right about some of the angles for the cuts too, The table saw is sure going to come in handy :)
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I told you to use fire.
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I told you to use fire.
I did use fire the next time I came across wasps,
Well as there isn't anything in the way of build progress on this I thought I would start on the software and art. I'm planning on adding working credit counters into the design as briefly discussed here
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,161220.0.html
The items there would be ideal candidates except it looks like all sorts of fun getting anything posted to the UK from Malaysia :( I'll find someone local who does electronics and get them to build something similar for me. I would do it myself but there is no way I can solder :)
I mentioned in that thread about setting up the active marquee to replicate the look of the 6 slot marquee. Unfortunately unless I go for a 4K screen as the marquee I don't think I can pull that off. I can though get away with replicating the 4 slot.
The idea will be that as you go through the games the display changes to show the next games in the list, A bit like a massive 196 multi slot :) I figure this is going to take some time, but I think I figured a way of only not having to do all 196 or so, quick mockup Examples below, as you can see Games 1 through 3 use the same image just the light to show which game is active moves Ideally I want to know what the next and previous games are at all times. There will undoubtedly be a fairly simple method I'm sure. At the moment I have this,
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=379702;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=379703;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=379704;image)
Game 4 has new image created although everything should be one place to the left.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=379708;image)
It then goes on something like as follows,
AM2,ANDRO (lit), AOF, AOF2
ANDRO, AOF(lit),AOF2,AOF3
ANDRO, AOF, AOF2 (lit),AOF3
AOF2,AOF3,(lit)BaseBall Stars, BBS 2
AOF2,AOF3,BaseBall Stars(lit), BBS 2
BBS, BBS2(lit),Battleflip,Blazing star,
BBS, BBS2,Battleflip(lit),Blazing star,
Battleflip,Blazing Star(lit),Blues Journey, Bomberman
Battleflip,Blazing Star,Blues Journey(lit), Bomberman
And so on and so forth I see a spreadsheet coming up in my future to work out minimum amount of work needed :)
Actually I don't need the spreadsheet, I just use 1 image for every 2 games The lights should only be over the middle 2. At least I've figured out I can cut the work in half now :laugh2:
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Well not a record by any means, But it has been a year since I did anything with this. Having been stuck indoors for the past 10 weeks or so I've redecorated the bedroom and hung the TV on the wall :) This meant that I had a free TV Stand to find a home for. So I decided to put the sofa from the shed into the Bedroom, and took the tv stand to the shed installed the TV onto the stand in portrait mode and setup a PC so I can start doing the software.
I have also placed an order with Ultimarc for the following.
1 x Ipac Ultimate I/O
2 x Servostiks Red Bat top
1 x Servostik controller
4 x Plain white standard pushbuttons
14 x Goldleaf RGB Buttons
14 x Black Caps for Goldleaf RGB Buttons
2 x Mounting kits for under mounting
Various Extensions and Daisy chain ground cables
Total cost just shy of £290 :o :o :o
I already have cable, crimp and various molex connections.
So plan of action, Double check all the sketchup plans, get a copy of control panel art printed and build a test control panel.
Here's hoping it doesn't take me another year before my next update :)
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OK have rough cut parts to make temporary control panel, Unfortunately weather has turned to rain for the week so can't finish that yet, (I don't think wife will allow use of table saw in house).
In the meantime I have got a friend of mine to print out a couple of coin mechs for me, These are no issue. But of course because I had no coin mechs I also have no switches,
Had a look online and only UK stock I could see for what I know I need and they want about 17 quid each, No way am I going to pay that.
Have looked for long lever microswitch, needle microswitch, coin drop microswitch.
Coin door is 2 slot version of the one in this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=t5J_gaCzhnc
Any assistance with what I need to order in the UK would be wonderful. Or ideas on what I can do to put in a ghetto coin switch.
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Well weather was good for a few days, So cut an old mdf shelf down to size to create a temporary control panel box for the software Setup. It would have been nice if it was possible to have cut the shelf down so was the same size as the end cabinet will be, but alas, just not quite enough material. Never mind, 23" wide by 12" Deep the box shall be :) 8 Degree slope. I think everyone knows how to build a box so haven't covered building that here, :laugh2: :laugh2:
Hit the box up with 2 coats of auto primer, quick sand down with some 200 sandpaper and then 2 coats of matt black. Control panel got 2 thick coats of MDF Primer on top ready for artwork.
I took my original art and scaled it to the size of the test control panel, replaced the button markings with a slightly different layout, which works nicely as has a semi curved layout when using buttons 1,2,6 and 7
567
234
1
Printed the resized art out as poster PDF on A3 paper then carefully stuck together and stuck it to the control panel, cut holes out for buttons, My choices for drill were a 26mm forstner or 30mm forstner I went with the 26, really need 27.5 :) Used a router to increase size of holes, I have now ordered 27 and 28mm auger/spade bits. I could really do with a drill press though. Holes ended up OK, all buttons fit, nothing totally out of whack yet.
I found a local printing company that could do a metre square print on door vinyl, I figured for £21 it was worth sending them some artwork :) Sent the artwork as used for test panel along with 2 versions of normal sized art to be used as templates for actual machine, only difference between those is the spacing of buttons, Whichever layout I like the best will then be used to get Laminated vinyl print, quoted £25 for a 25x11 matt laminate control panel seems like a fairly good price. I also have the same printer doing laser cut Logo's for the sides.
Anyway Door vinyl arrives, all good, Cut out the bit I want to use and spend 15 minutes lining up the vinyl, go to get tape to stick down one edge , ask wife to hold in place, say do not move it. Get tape come back. Did you move it? I asked, "No" was the answer. Good, tape down, peel other end, start laying down get about 1/3rd way across and I look at it and go that's not straight, attempt to pull back up, well that's not going to happen. Looks like with a dry install of this stuff you get one chance. Oh well, Its not going to line up then, luckily it's just a temp box, I'll live with the results :) Cover rest of box with spare Vinyl from Entertainment Centre Build. I found about 7 Foot of black and about 7 Ft of Yellow Tmolding, I ran the black around the base and then decided to add Yellow over side panels. Really wish I had decided to have Tmold on sides originally though as then could have cut the slot before installing panel. End result looks like so.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=383403)
The one unfortunate thing about the servosticks is the shaft length. Definitely designed for metal panels. Even after routing out the maximum I could on back of panel without then risking blowing the mounts through the artwork it just looks like the shaft is not long enough (Oooh Eer Missus). Guess I'll want to do the real thing in Metal, or go with one of the fancier methods for undermounting :)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=383404)
So then it was an afternoon of cabling, And boy oh boy am I beginning to rethink this whole RGB malarky, Way too many wires under here, I am though getting better with the fitting of cables into Dupont pins and then getting those into the headers correctly :) I was worried that I would need about another 1000 pins the way I was chewing them up at the beginning. I have found bending the end wings in a touch made it work so much better. Also ensuring I put the pin in to the right side of the crimper helps, took me a bit to see that one side was actually deeper than the other on the ratchet die :) (I've only ever used BNC and rj11/45 crimps before now). For the test panel I am just running the cable into a bit of cable tidy tubing I had laying around, It's not perfect but its easy to work with. Final panel will have all cables ran to exact length using Male/Female SM JST connectors. I am not looking forward to installing all those.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=383405)
Still to do on test panel, Finish extending Player 1 Joystick wires, Drill Start/Select/Exit Buttons (Waiting on New Drill Bits for this). Put some clamp mounts in for the tubing and wire up a 12V power brick for the Leds/Ultimate IO.
For now I will be installing a Micro Form Factor Dell Optiplex 3040 into the Box, I'm putting a faceplate on back to allow HDMI/Display port wires to exit box and for power to enter box. I did look for a HD panel that included USB/DP/HDMI/Audio etc but ultimately decided why spend the money, I won't use it in the full size machine :)
As for the Microswitches, I found some for £3 each as need new wire installing, shouldn't be an issue, (Piano wire should work) Unfortunately they've been shipped to lord only knows where, supplier says will post more tomorrow, but doesn't have them on his page anymore, so not sure on that. :banghead: :banghead:
So until next time, Be safe, Be Kind,