The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: gambaman on August 13, 2019, 08:35:25 pm
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I have published here (https://hackaday.io/project/165634-the-ultimate-vga-to-scart-adapter) an enhanced version of my previous VGA to SCART adapter (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,158281.0.html). Unlike the previous version, the new adapter does not require any external power source nor DC-DC converter to generate the 12V of the SCART status signal thanks to Visenri's indications (https://hackaday.io/project/161006-yet-another-vga-to-scart-adapter/discussion-115687). Also, the transistors employed to generate the RGB selection signal in the previous version are no longer needed. The adapter has the following pros:
- It's cheap thanks to the unexpensive PIC16F18313.
- It automatically detects the polarity of the input VGA sync signals and configures the configurable logic cells (CLC) of the PIC dynamically to generate the SCART composite sync signal correctly.
- The PIC monitors the input signal and set the composite sync to ground if the frequency of the horizontal sync signal is wrong or if the vertical sync signal does not change. This is useful if you are using it to generate the Csync signal of a very old arcade monitor to protect it. Also, if any of the input sync signal is wrong then the PIC disables the the SCART RGB selection signal and the SCART status signal.
- Most VGA devices can provide enough power to the PIC so no external power source is required.
- No external power source nor DC-DC converter is required to generate the 12V of the SCART status signal. It can be generated by the PIC itself as noted by Visenri (https://hackaday.io/project/161006-yet-another-vga-to-scart-adapter/discussion-115687).
- Optional aspect ratio selection (16:9 or 4:3).
- Optional LEDs to test the power and input sync signals.
- Optional power source selection.
- The basic circuit only requires the PIC and a pair of resistors and capacitors.
- The full circuit fits in a (big) DE-15 enclosure using a single sided PCB and easy to solder through-hole components.
here (https://youtu.be/Ej7yfLkhnN8)
(https://cdn.hackaday.io/images/1477431565373896492.jpg)
UPDATE: I am happy to say I have found two stores selling implementations of this adapter.
One is https://www.arcadexpress.com/es/arcadevga/457-cable-arcade-vga-scart-usb-5v-12v-con-audio.html (https://www.arcadexpress.com/es/arcadevga/457-cable-arcade-vga-scart-usb-5v-12v-con-audio.html)
This implementation looks almost identical to the original, except the position of the LEDs.
Another one is http://vga-scart-converter-f-15.mozello.es/catalog/params/category/0/item/1443803/ (http://vga-scart-converter-f-15.mozello.es/catalog/params/category/0/item/1443803/)
The appearance of the latter is quite different. The switches are more accessible so that the power supply or the aspect ratio of the screen can be changed without having to open the adapter. Another notable difference is that it has a female VGA input and two SCART outputs, one male and one female. The adapter can be connected directly to the TV with the male SCART connector. Alternatively, it can be connected via the female connector using a SCART cable.
(https://site-1018059.mozfiles.com/files/1018059/catitems/cenital-f6c5f8149ae8d1af0366adcad656a90c.png?2557903)
(https://site-1018059.mozfiles.com/files/1018059/catitems/Captura01-3161f335d49e79a1a8158ab5590acff4.PNG?2558060)
UPDATE: The box version above is not on sale anymore, buy all the design files are available here (https://hackaday.io/project/182801-vga-to-scart-box).
UPDATE: buttersoft (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=profile;u=83851) has designed a
SOIC version of the adapter (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,160869.msg1726755.html#msg1726755) that can be directly solded to the back of a DB15HD male solder plug, and should fit inside any backshell, with room to connect a cable too. You can get it here (https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/tDs1Slud).
(https://i.imgur.com/MtVmk4s.png)
UPDATE: MonochromeVGA (https://hackaday.io/project/166041-monochromevga) is a project from Aitor Gómez to enjoy the charm of those monochrome monitors of the time in VGA displays. It makes it possible to select green, amber or B&W as monochromatic color, among others, as well as to change color to monochrome or vice versa easily. You may ask why I'm posting about it here. The reason is that Aitor has combined the MonochromeVGA with my project to get the MonochromeRGB (https://hackaday.io/project/176201-monochromergb):
(https://cdn.hackaday.io/images/744511607352007750.jpg)
MonochromeRGB allows several possible configurations of use:
-VGA to [optionally monochrome] VGA, without the need for any power supply
-SCART to [optionally monochrome] SCART, also without the need for any power supply
-VGA at 15.7Khz horizontal frequency to [optionally monochrome] SCART with selectable 4:3 <-> 16:9 aspect change for compatible TVs, being necessary 5V power supply via microUSB or from the VGA connector itself
I would like to collaborate with Aitor to develop a dual output version for TATE games. Stay tuned.
UPDATE: buttersoft (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=profile;u=83851) has designed a passthrough dongle (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,160869.msg1733596.html#msg1733596). This one is a double-ended version, male HD15 to female HD15. It has the LED's, taking in H-sync and V-sync and allowing C-sync through only when it detects 15kHz, blocking everything else. It allows you to plug in any VGA or VGA-toBNC or -SCART cable to the out end as required. You can get it here (https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/mMqybOjf).
(https://i.imgur.com/16Qu2cJ.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/bNxo4n2.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/WS3UHm8.jpg)
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Good stuff, i love building stuff like this so i'll give it a look.
And the more i look the more i like it. Very neat. And i like that you've included parts sourcing from reasonable places :)
I notice you've got a cable gland on the end of the DE-15 housing. Do you know where it came from?
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I notice you've got a cable gland on the end of the DE-15 housing. Do you know where it came from?
The SCART-SCART cable I employed for that prototype was very short. So, instead of cutting it into halves, I removed one of the male SCART connectors and used its gland for my DE-15. A better alternative is to cut a longer cable into halves. In that way you can use an only cable to make two adapters (one with each half).
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Is there supposed to be audio in the video?.....
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Is there supposed to be audio in the video?.....
I removed most of it. Only the corresponding to the sound test (minute 5 more or less) is left. I used to think I had the voice of James Earl Jones till I recorded it :(.
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Good stuff, i love building stuff like this so i'll give it a look.
I'm sorry if you already got the previous version of the PCB (labeled 1.2). I have realized that the DE-15 was hard to fit because its footprint was wrong :embarassed:. I have just published a fixed version (labeled 1.4), but I haven't tested it yet. I have ordered a few PCBs of the new version. I will test them and tell you the results as soon as possible.
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Hah, no, i didn't order (yet). TBH i have like 6 projects on the go - encoders, SFC mods, CRT repair - and i don't strictly need a scart adapter. I'll get around to it eventually.
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I have uploaded a new version of the PCB (labeled 1.6) with the correct DE-15 footprint and the common ground connections. I have tested it and it works.
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I have no skills with soldering and stuff like that whatsoever. Is there any way to buy this cable (I live in Brazil)?
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I have no skills with soldering and stuff like that whatsoever. Is there any way to buy this cable (I live in Brazil)?
As far as I know, nobody is selling the adapter. You can make a request to a brazilian arcade shop (for example https://www.arcadebr.com.br/). Since the design is "libre", they can make and sell the adapter at will.
P.D: Is the SCART connector usual in Brazil?
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I have no skills with soldering and stuff like that whatsoever. Is there any way to buy this cable (I live in Brazil)?
Somebody is polling to make a batch of adapters: https://www.offidocs.com/loleaflet/dist/loleaflet.html?service=owncloudservice13&file_path=file:///var/www/html/weboffice/mydata/8378688565/NewDocuments/9072788666.xlsx&username=8378688565&ext=yes (https://www.offidocs.com/loleaflet/dist/loleaflet.html?service=owncloudservice13&file_path=file:///var/www/html/weboffice/mydata/8378688565/NewDocuments/9072788666.xlsx&username=8378688565&ext=yes)
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Great stuff :)
I'm also interested in 2 cables but production will be in Spain. Can add to list even if I live in Poland ?
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Great stuff :)
I'm also interested in 2 cables but production will be in Spain. Can add to list even if I live in Poland ?
You can ask the guy who is selling the adapter. Just send him an e-mail with the subject "ultimate vga" at rgbux666@gmail.com.
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I'm interested and I've already wrote e-mail to You.
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Great, haynor666. But that e-mail address it not mine. Did he respond you? As long as I know, he is still waiting for components.
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Hey gambaman, i'm thinking of giving this a go, or at least planning to, but the stencil file for boring the VGA h9ousing is not recognised by any of the fabs i normally use. It needs an outline. Any chance you could update it to have one? Or suggest an alternate method or something?
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Hey gambaman, i'm thinking of giving this a go, or at least planning to, but the stencil file for boring the VGA h9ousing is not recognised by any of the fabs i normally use. It needs an outline. Any chance you could update it to have one? Or suggest an alternate method or something?
It is because of the oval holes, right? I had problems with that. You have several alternatives:
-You can order the PCB at https://jlcpcb.com/. I ordered them there.
-I can change the footprint if you want.
-You can download the KiCad files from https://cdn.hackaday.io/files/1656347086485056/KiCad_ultimateVGA2SCART.zip and change the footprint.
-There is a guy who was selling DIY kits with all the componentes, including PCB and preprogramed PIC. You can e-mail him at rgbux666@gmail.com with the subject "ultimate vga". I don't know if he is still selling them, anyway.
Please, tell me your impressions.
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I should have been clearer. The main circuit board itself is fine. It's the second dummy PCB to help cut the housing. If you put that into JLCPCB or OSHpark it fails. This is the "ayuda_corte_carcasa-job.gbrjob" file. I cannot dump that directly onto JLCPCB, and if i archive it into a .zip file, it fails to find an outline. I cannot get the raw file to show up in a gerber viewer either, i cannot see it's size and shape at all using that file.
Is there anything i should be doing? I'd love to be able to order the Dummy PCB as well!
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I should have been clearer. The main circuit board itself is fine. It's the second dummy PCB to help cut the housing. If you put that into JLCPCB or OSHpark it fails. This is the "ayuda_corte_carcasa-job.gbrjob" file. I cannot dump that directly onto JLCPCB, and if i archive it into a .zip file, it fails to find an outline. I cannot get the raw file to show up in a gerber viewer either, i cannot see it's size and shape at all using that file.
Is there anything i should be doing? I'd love to be able to order the Dummy PCB as well!
Sorry for the misunderstanding. I thought the problem was the "real" PCB. In the .zip file I linked you will find a KiCad file called "ayuda_corte_carcasa.pro". Can you use it to generate your own gerber file?
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Hah, no i don't think so. I'm only using EasyEDA online PCB designer, i do not have kicad or anything else :(
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Hah, no i don't think so. I'm only using EasyEDA online PCB designer, i do not have kicad or anything else :(
You can also use EasyEDA. Just do the following:
-Extract the files "ayuda_corte_carcasa.pro" and "ayuda_corte_carcasa.kicad_pcb" from the previously linked zip file.
-Create a new zip with the files you extracted.
-Go to the EasyEDA menu and select document->Open->Kicad
-Select the zip file you have just created.
P.D: KiCad is libre and free. You can download it from https://www.kicad-pcb.org/
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Ahhh, ok thanks! I've had such terrible time trying to import anything into EasyEDA i think i gave up. It's an awesome site, but not great for reverse-engineering anything, if i can use the term that broadly.
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Hi Gambaman, I've been taking a look at your cool adapter, because i'm hoping to cut it down a little - i only need video and would like to keep the LED's. You mention in your first post that all the circuit strictly needs are the PIC, two resistors and two capacitors.
To keep the LED's as well, the components i seem to have left on the board are the PIC, along with R1, R6, R7, C1 and C2. Should there be another resistor, and if so, which one?
Are C1 and C2 just for power/noise filtering?
Thanks!
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Hi Gambaman, I've been taking a look at your cool adapter, because i'm hoping to cut it down a little - i only need video and would like to keep the LED's. You mention in your first post that all the circuit strictly needs are the PIC, two resistors and two capacitors.
To keep the LED's as well, the components i seem to have left on the board are the PIC, along with R1, R6, R7, C1 and C2. Should there be another resistor, and if so, which one?
Maybe you should also leave R5. It is used to lower the 5V of the PIC output to the nominal voltage of the RGB selection (pin 16 of the SCART connector). I think you will probably not break your TV if you connect directly the PIC output to SCART RGB selection, but just in case...
Are C1 and C2 just for power/noise filtering?
Yes. Maybe your implementation will work without them.
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With the current firmware, when the PIC detects a correct output, it waits for a long time before activating the output. Some testers say it is annoying because, when they switch to a game with a different resolution, the SCART input on the TV is disabled. I think it can be solved by modifying the firmware. In the source code there is a line like this "#define countdown_duration 30000". The SCART input will reactivate faster if you replace "30000" with a lower value (lower than 2300 and higher than the number of lines of your TV). I suggest mounting the PIC on a socket so that it is possible to test several values without desoldering it.
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Thanks for the replies! I'm, using dedicated RGB sets like PVM's, so i won't need the SCART blanking voltage :)
I always like socketing IC's so i can fiddle later, but i hadn't thought of it in this case. That seems like a good idea. I'm no programmer, but I'll see what i need to do to get into the code - it's in C?
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Thanks for the replies! I'm, using dedicated RGB sets like PVM's, so i won't need the SCART blanking voltage :)
Then you may consider the previous version of the adapter (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,158281.0.html). It uses a smaller and cheaper PIC. However, you will have to use this hack (https://hackaday.io/page/5431-pull-up-hacking-for-turning-inputs-into-outputs-and-saving-components) if you also want the LEDs.
I always like socketing IC's so i can fiddle later, but i hadn't thought of it in this case. That seems like a good idea. I'm no programmer, but I'll see what i need to do to get into the code - it's in C?
Yes. You can find the source code in the project page. Do you want me to change anything and recompile it?
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These projects are fascinating! The only drawback using pics is that you are in the need for programmers... Could you suggest a cheap programmer for pic16f18313?
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EDIT: the TL866 variants do not work for this project, beware!
TL866ii? It's $60AUD, which isn't nothing, but it does so many different chips (including 27C322 roms with an adapter, used in Amiga, SNES and Genesis roms). That's the only time i've needed an adapter, everything else has worked immediately.
Thanks, Gambaman, i'll give the previous version a look. I'll take a look at the code and see if i can figure it out, but if not i'll give you a yell. Cheers :)
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These projects are fascinating! The only drawback using pics is that you are in the need for programmers... Could you suggest a cheap programmer for pic16f18313?
A friend of mine uses a cheap PICKIT3 Programmer (https://es.aliexpress.com/item/32951386262.html?spm=a2g0o.productlist.0.0.2df06d7bM5Si16&s=p&algo_pvid=6d381b78-ffa2-4b0d-b87e-8de25c7b5e47&algo_expid=6d381b78-ffa2-4b0d-b87e-8de25c7b5e47-2&btsid=6b7cf479-4936-45f8-af8c-b83e1a35caf0&ws_ab_test=searchweb0_0,searchweb201602_2,searchweb201603_53).
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Thanks for the replies! I'm, using dedicated RGB sets like PVM's, so i won't need the SCART blanking voltage :)
hiya buttersoft, you don't do any blanking for PVMs? I've found that my Sony PVMs need blanking. They seem happy with just bridging pin 20 (sync) to pin 16 (blanking) with a small wire, but they do need some voltage there. Or do you mean AV switching at pin 8? Yeah, think they won't need that.
gambaman - love your work!
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No no, blanking. Most PVM's don't have SCART to begin with, but the 2730's have an option to turn "superimpose" off for the SCART socket - which means they're always in RGB mode. Unless that's superimpose on, but i think it's off.
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No no, blanking. Most PVM's don't have SCART to begin with, but the 2730's have an option to turn "superimpose" off for the SCART socket - which means they're always in RGB mode. Unless that's superimpose on, but i think it's off.
Ahhhh, I'll have to fire up my PVM2730QM and try that out. At the moment it is gathering dust in my hot shed. I do recall the "superimpose" switch, but it didn't seem to do anything when I tested it - maybe because my VGA-SCART cable already had blanking voltage!
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Hi Gambaman,
Alright, I can get into the file and change the parameter, (to 1000) but i'm stuck on how to compile. I've got an AVR toolchain and Git installed, but there's no makefile in your project. And i tried to install MPLAB X but it says there's a missing platform tool called noID which isn't in the downloadable plugins either... ;?
So, if you have any advice i'm all ears. I cannot believe how hard i'm finding it to compile c code, so any pointers would be awesome :)
I'd prefer to compile myself as that way i can test different values, to save asking you to compile a bunch of hexes for me to program.
Cheers!
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I can get into the file and change the parameter, (to 1000) but i'm stuck on how to compile. I've got an AVR toolchain and Git installed, but there's no makefile in your project.
Hi, buttersoft. I did not create manually the makefile. Instead, I used MPLAB X IDE.
And i tried to install MPLAB X but it says there's a missing platform tool called noID which isn't in the downloadable plugins either... ;?
Sorry, I don't remember if I had to install anything else.
So, if you have any advice i'm all ears. I cannot believe how hard i'm finding it to compile c code, so any pointers would be awesome :)
I'd prefer to compile myself as that way i can test different values, to save asking you to compile a bunch of hexes for me to program.
Anyway, in case you can not compile it I updated the source and compiled code. You can download it from the project page. I changed the parameter to 740 and works like a charm.
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Hah, i figured it out. I stupidly followed a tutorial and it was doing the wrong thing!
Thanks though, i'll change to 740 and give it a run :)
EDIT: And now it seems my PIC's are on backorder until November :( Any chance there's another PIC the code can be programmed to? Or without too much trouble...
I have to admit all i did to compile was copy-paste-all from your main.c file. All i changed was the countdown duration, to 740, and my hexfile looks different to yours! It gives me a warning too, abhout an arithmetic overflow on line 78 ( NCO1INCL=NCO_increment;). Any ideas what i might be doing wrong there?
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EDIT: And now it seems my PIC's are on backorder until November :( Any chance there's another PIC the code can be programmed to? Or without too much trouble...
The previous version (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,158281.0.html) uses a PIC10F320/322. Does it suit you?
I have to admit all i did to compile was copy-paste-all from your main.c file. All i changed was the countdown duration, to 740, and my hexfile looks different to yours!
Click on File->Project Properties and check that the selected device is PIC16F18313.
It gives me a warning too, abhout an arithmetic overflow on line 78 ( NCO1INCL=NCO_increment;). Any ideas what i might be doing wrong there?
It is OK. It warns you because the constant NCO_increment does not fit in NCO1INCL so only the 8 least significant bits will be written there. It is the wanted beahaviour. Note that the other bits are previously stored in NCO1INCH and NCO1INCU.
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baritonomarchetto I made a big mistake! IT doesn't look like the TL866 can program the PIC16F18313. I'm going to have to grab that one Gambaman recommended, i think.
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baritonomarchetto I made a big mistake! IT doesn't look like the TL866 can program the PIC16F18313. I'm going to have to grab that one Gambaman recommended, i think.
I'm sorry to hear that. Was it very expensive?
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About $25 AUD. I grabbed the exact one you linked to as it seemed to come with the better ZIF-socket adapter. I couldn't use the other PIC10 chip in your simpler adapter either, i'd need the programmer for that too. The worst part is waiting 6 weeks for it to arrive :/ I do plan to make a few of these SCART adapters, and play around with the design. And i'm sure i'll want to program something else in future.
I'm still a bit overwhelmed by MPLAB X IDE though, but i think all i need to do is import the .hex file, then build the project, using the programmer as the device. The target IC being a PIC16F18313 should already be set up, yes?
Also, i was half planning to use this for the MiSTer. Do you know if the H-sync input for the PIC16F18313 will pass composite sync through? Does it depend on what the v-sync port is doing as well?
Also, great avatar! I have to steal that picture :)
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I'm still a bit overwhelmed by MPLAB X IDE though, but i think all i need to do is import the .hex file, then build the project, using the programmer as the device. The target IC being a PIC16F18313 should already be set up, yes?
Sorry, I'm quite unskilled. Probably you can use MPLAB X IDE to write the PIC without having to build the project, but I don't know how. If you are going to rebuild the project then you don't need the .hex file. Just select the target IC, add the source .c code and, just in case, press "Clean and Build Project". Then, to write each PIC press "Make and Program Device".
Also, i was half planning to use this for the MiSTer. Do you know if the H-sync input for the PIC16F18313 will pass composite sync through? Does it depend on what the v-sync port is doing as well?
Sorry, I have no idea. Does the MiSTer have have a composite sync output? If so, why do you need the adapter? Can't you connect it directly to the composite sync input of the SCART?
Also, great avatar! I have to steal that picture :)
I'm happy to see you liked it, althought it would probably loose a battle with Usagi ;)
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Probably you can use MPLAB X IDE to write the PIC without having to build the project, but I don't know how. If you are going to rebuild the project then you don't need the .hex file. Just select the target IC, add the source .c code and, just in case, press "Clean and Build Project". Then, to write each PIC press "Make and Program Device".
Expect to hear from me in a month when the PICKIT 3.5 arrives and i can't figure it out, lol :) You updated the source.c file to switch resolutions in 740 lines?
Does the MiSTer have have a composite sync output? If so, why do you need the adapter? Can't you connect it directly to the composite sync input of the SCART?
https://github.com/MiSTer-devel/Main_MiSTer/wiki/Direct-Video
The MiSTer has a setting called direct_video which takes the native video output of the FPGA cores and pumps it out the VGA port on the I/O board, if you have one, and also out the inbuilt HDMI port. It also has an option to turn on composite sync, yes. And with almost any cheap HDMI-to-VGA converter you get 240p RGBS. But the MiSTer will pump composite sync at any res, i think. And not all cores output natively in 240p (some microcomputers, Apple, 486, etc are all higher.)
It would be nice if your adapter would work with composite sync under that environment, i guess. You could also just turn off composite sync and use normal 240p RGBHV however.
I'm happy to see you liked it, althought it would probably loose a battle with Usagi ;)
To Usagi as he used to be. Nowdays everyone whips his butt, lol :)
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Expect to hear from me in a month when the PICKIT 3.5 arrives and i can't figure it out, lol :) You updated the source.c file to switch resolutions in 740 lines?
You mean the countdown_duration parameter? Yes, it has been updated.
The MiSTer has a setting called direct_video which takes the native video output of the FPGA cores and pumps it out the VGA port on the I/O board, if you have one, and also out the inbuilt HDMI port. It also has an option to turn on composite sync, yes. And with almost any cheap HDMI-to-VGA converter you get 240p RGBS. But the MiSTer will pump composite sync at any res, i think. And not all cores output natively in 240p (some microcomputers, Apple, 486, etc are all higher.)
It would be nice if your adapter would work with composite sync under that environment, i guess. You could also just turn off composite sync and use normal 240p RGBHV however.
I'm a bit confused. The adapter generates the composite sync requiered by the TV from Hsync and Vsync. If the MiSTer can generate the composite sync, it does not need this adapter.
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It would be for protection from signals over 15kHz, in this case. Not a massive gain, i was merely curious as to whether it could handle composite sync.
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It would be for protection from signals over 15kHz, in this case. Not a massive gain, i was merely curious as to whether it could handle composite sync.
I'm sorry it can not handle it. Anyway, maybe the overfrequency protection is useless in this case. I don't know anything about TV internals. Can it be damaged if the frequency is too high?
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I don't think any TV or PVM from about 1990 onwards would be damaged, they way they capture sync means they'll just fail to sync to anything outside their range. But i'm sure it's best to be safe. Some old Arcade monitors and older computer monitors certainly will be damaged, as they're circuitry was only meant to see 15kHz, and they will still work to capture whatever signal is input and damage themselves. They may not fail instantly, but in some cases the damage can be cumulative.
Those wouldn't have SCART sockets of course, but i'm not using SCART and I'm building a couple of your adapters :) I was just trying to find out what they can handle and what uses they might be put to.
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I am happy to say I have found two stores selling implementations of this adapter.
One is https://www.arcadexpress.com/es/arcadevga/457-cable-arcade-vga-scart-usb-5v-12v-con-audio.html (https://www.arcadexpress.com/es/arcadevga/457-cable-arcade-vga-scart-usb-5v-12v-con-audio.html)
This implementation looks almost identical to the original, except the position of the LEDs.
Another one is http://vga-scart-converter-f-15.mozello.es/catalog/params/category/0/item/1443803/ (http://vga-scart-converter-f-15.mozello.es/catalog/params/category/0/item/1443803/)
The appearance of the latter is quite different. The switches are more accessible so that the power supply or the aspect ratio of the screen can be changed without having to open the adapter. Another notable difference is that it has a female VGA input and two SCART outputs, one male and one female. The adapter can be connected directly to the TV with the male SCART connector. Alternatively, it can be connected via the female connector using a SCART cable.
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Hi gambaman, just wanted to say I got the pickit 3 and a few pics have have been giving this vs a whirl! It all works very nicely. I did modify your original design, I have one version that has RGBS and the LEDs and it fits into a db15hd backshell - same as a regular db9 backshell. It uses an soic version of the pic chip.
I thought it might be nice to make some 15khz detector dongles, sort of thing. But it's not too hard to add a cable or cables in there as well.
I'll upload the modded design in a couple of days when I get back from holidays :)
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Hi gambaman, just wanted to say I got the pickit 3 and a few pics have have been giving this vs a whirl! It all works very nicely. I did modify your original design, I have one version that has RGBS and the LEDs and it fits into a db15hd backshell - same as a regular db9 backshell. It uses an soic version of the pic chip.
I thought it might be nice to make some 15khz detector dongles, sort of thing. But it's not too hard to add a cable or cables in there as well.
I'll upload the modded design in a couple of days when I get back from holidays :)
I'm happy to hear that. Please, upload photos.
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Please let me know if the project doesn't share properly, i haven't had to do this before!
https://easyeda.com/account/project/detail?project=b3a7e09672ef4b80a204782462e99254
can be ordered cheapest from OshPark, but you can also download the gerbers from there and upload to another fab:
https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/tDs1Slud
I built the only SOIC PIC i have right now into one adapter, but the 3d models of the boards look like this:
(https://i.imgur.com/MtVmk4s.png)
It solders directly to the back of a DB15HD male solder plug, and should fit inside any backshell, with room to connect a cable too.
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I am happy to say I have found two stores selling implementations of this adapter.
One is https://www.arcadexpress.com/es/arcadevga/457-cable-arcade-vga-scart-usb-5v-12v-con-audio.html (https://www.arcadexpress.com/es/arcadevga/457-cable-arcade-vga-scart-usb-5v-12v-con-audio.html)
This implementation looks almost identical to the original, except the position of the LEDs.
Another one is http://vga-scart-converter-f-15.mozello.es/catalog/params/category/0/item/1443803/ (http://vga-scart-converter-f-15.mozello.es/catalog/params/category/0/item/1443803/)
The appearance of the latter is quite different. The switches are more accessible so that the power supply or the aspect ratio of the screen can be changed without having to open the adapter. Another notable difference is that it has a female VGA input and two SCART outputs, one male and one female. The adapter can be connected directly to the TV with the male SCART connector. Alternatively, it can be connected via the female connector using a SCART cable.
I bought two VGA F-15 some time ago (thanks for help with this gambaman) and so far works very nice. Price is also very good.
One thing I noticed - sometimes device fails to switch back TV signal after resolution change. I have to quit game and start again just to force resolution change. It does happen rarely so not a problem for me. Putting device directly in TV scart is also quite handy - no need for scart cable. This is very comfortable for me because I have TV very close to PC.
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One thing I noticed - sometimes device fails to switch back TV signal after resolution change. I have to quit game and start again just to force resolution change. It does happen rarely so not a problem for me.
Hi. Do you mean that sometimes resolution dosen't change when switching games? Does it happen with any emulator?
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MonochromeVGA (https://hackaday.io/project/166041-monochromevga) is a project from Aitor Gómez to enjoy the charm of those monochrome monitors of the time in VGA displays. It makes it possible to select green, amber or B&W as monochromatic color, among others, as well as to change color to monochrome or vice versa easily. You may ask why I'm posting about it here. The reason is that Aitor has combined the MonochromeVGA with my project to get the MonochromeRGB (https://hackaday.io/project/176201-monochromergb):
(https://cdn.hackaday.io/images/744511607352007750.jpg)
MonochromeRGB allows several possible configurations of use:
-VGA to [optionally monochrome] VGA, without the need for any power supplyA
-SCART to [optionally monochrome] SCART, also without the need for any power supply
-VGA at 15.7Khz horizontal frequency to [optionally monochrome] SCART with selectable 4:3 <-> 16:9 aspect change for compatible TVs, being necessary 5V power supply via microUSB or from the VGA connector itself
I would like to collaborate with Aitor to develop a dual output version for TATE games. Stay tuned.
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One thing I noticed - sometimes device fails to switch back TV signal after resolution change. I have to quit game and start again just to force resolution change. It does happen rarely so not a problem for me.
Hi. Do you mean that sometimes resolution dosen't change when switching games? Does it happen with any emulator?
Sometimes after starting game I get black screen - TV displays OSD info and looks like TV is not getting any signal. Today I've tested many games but it didn't happen even single time.
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One thing I noticed - sometimes device fails to switch back TV signal after resolution change. I have to quit game and start again just to force resolution change. It does happen rarely so not a problem for me.
Hi. Do you mean that sometimes resolution dosen't change when switching games? Does it happen with any emulator?
Sometimes after starting game I get black screen - TV displays OSD info and looks like TV is not getting any signal. Today I've tested many games but it didn't happen even single time.
Strange. I don't know the reason. I'm sorry I can't help you. :-[
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So that mod for passthrough dongle i was working on is done. This one is a double-ended version, male HD15 to female HD15. It has the LED's, taking in H-sync and V-sync and allowing C-sync through only when it detects 15kHz, blocking everything else. It allows you to plug in any VGA or VGA-toBNC or -SCART cable to the out end as required.
Points to note:
-You will need to wire the RGB lines from input to output yourself.
-You will need to wire up all the input/output pins on the PCB including all ground lines (just in case)
-You will need to fab the board at 0.8mm thick.
-You will need to either use a PCB HD15 male plug or trim a solder HD15 male plug. (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001418455591.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1f164c4dN9vaBg)
-You will need to 3D-print the housing for yourself :)
-Make sure you have the means to program the PIC before doing anything else like ordering parts!
More general info is in this thread :)
PCB - https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/mMqybOjf
housing - https://anonfiles.com/vbg3f5J7p0/DB9_double_mine_-_complete_tiny_v5_stl PM for updated link, pls!
(https://i.imgur.com/16Qu2cJ.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/bNxo4n2.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/WS3UHm8.jpg)
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@buttersoft - Does your redesign use Zener and Schottky diodes?
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No it does not. My version is cut down from the original, and uses no diodes. Were you thinking i should add some to this reduced design?
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UPDATE: They do not sell the box version anymore, buy all the design files are available here (https://hackaday.io/project/182801-vga-to-scart-box).
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It's really sad they are not making it anymore. I would really sink my teeth in 2 of them F15s
http://vga-scart-converter-f-15.mozello.es/catalog/params/category/0/item/1443803/
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It's really sad they are not making it anymore. I would really sink my teeth in 2 of them F15s
http://vga-scart-converter-f-15.mozello.es/catalog/params/category/0/item/1443803/
The MonochromeRGB converter is more expensive, but you can buy it here: https://hackaday.io/project/176201-monochromergb
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I bought one of the premade cables from Arcadexpress earlier on in the year, and I'm trying to understand if it's faulty or not.
I've been getting video interference with most TVs I've tried it with. I've also had audio interference.
I thought it might be a ground loop problem, but I've discovered that *just having the cable plugged in* creates audio noise on the TVs SCART input. Other SCART cables connected to the same input do not do this. Nothing is connected at the other end of the cable.
Handling the VGA end increases the noise, especially with a 3.5mm cable connected. Other SCART cables I *have* to touch the audio pins to induce noise, which I'd expect.
Is the cable faulty or is this something to be expected in the design?
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Cools, are the video/audio grounds connected to the shield ground? That would explain the noise while handling VGA end.
If the cable has poor shielding that can create similar issues too.
Probably a good idea to check what is connected to ground with a DMM. May as well check for resistance on the audio and video lines while you are there too.
Because the video and audio grounds are usually shared at both the TV and PC ends, you may simply find that running audio out to some desktop speakers works better than through the TV. A ground loop isolator may also help. But it sounds like you have video interference as well.
Before you could buy them from shops and aliexpress, I used to make similar cables by hand at my kitchen bench for forum members, and a few extra hobby dollars, after the kids had gone to sleep. 1-2 hours for a cable. Was a fun "gig" economy thing to do that helped other retrogamers.
I still make my own cables and they are still the best (of course! :P ), but can't really compete with the Arcadexpress prices vs my time and effort.
FWIW, I usually left out the audio from my VGA/SCART cables - if you really want to, for most TVs you can simply run a cheap cable (3.5mm male to red/white RCA male) and it is done anyway.
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Thanks Zebidee. I took a meter to it, and discovered the SCART plug wasn't grounded properly. Opening it up, the metal shield wasn't connected to pin 21, I guess it had jiggled out in transit. Slotting that pin back into place solved the crazy bad interference I was getting.
While open, I spotted none of the R G B grounds were connected either, and the chosen cable didn't have enough conductors to support them. Checked the VGA end and they were empty on the PCB too.
The original design says some connections are optional, but since I was still seeing and hearing interference, I figured I should just replace the whole SCART cable part wirh a fully wired one and see what happens.
4 hours and some sorely tested patience later, I've done that, along with belt-and-braces joining all the video grounds. The video noise was still present, albeit reduced further. Audio noise, no difference.
I've done a bunch more messing around, not sure if its video card or mains socket but fingers crossed I've eliminated all video noise. Audio is there but the level is pretty low - low enough at normal volume for it not to be audible anyway. Might try your suggestion although I would need to inject the audio into the SCART plug as none of my TVs have a separate input - should I just make sure audio and video grounds are separated in the cable and see if that makes a difference?
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Thanks Zebidee. I took a meter to it, and discovered the SCART plug wasn't grounded properly. Opening it up, the metal shield wasn't connected to pin 21, I guess it had jiggled out in transit. Slotting that pin back into place solved the crazy bad interference I was getting.
While open, I spotted none of the R G B grounds were connected either, and the chosen cable didn't have enough conductors to support them. Checked the VGA end and they were empty on the PCB too.
The original design says some connections are optional, but since I was still seeing and hearing interference, I figured I should just replace the whole SCART cable part wirh a fully wired one and see what happens.
That is good news! :)
You only need one ground from the VGA - it depends on your cable, but typically it will be connected to pin 10 or 5.
Pins 6,7,8 are often not used, but usually connected/soldered to ground at the video card and TV ends anyway.
For making a VGA-SCART video cable, you need just six wires from VGA. RGB (1,2,3) + syncH&V (13,14) + GND (5,6,7,8,10). Just twist all the available VGA grounds (video+sync, not shield) together and run them into one of the SCART RGB ground pins.
Make sure you don't have any other random wires from VGA connected to SCART ground, here I'm talking mostly about the monitor ID/data pins (VGA 11,12,15) or the 5v pin (VGA 9). The wires can be any colour, so don't assume, check with DMM.
You'll also need to link the syncs together for SCART. Exactly how, and what your cable does with sync, is another issue we can get to later.
4 hours and some sorely tested patience later, I've done that, along with belt-and-braces joining all the video grounds. The video noise was still present, albeit reduced further. Audio noise, no difference.
I've done a bunch more messing around, not sure if its video card or mains socket but fingers crossed I've eliminated all video noise. Audio is there but the level is pretty low - low enough at normal volume for it not to be audible anyway. Might try your suggestion although I would need to inject the audio into the SCART plug as none of my TVs have a separate input - should I just make sure audio and video grounds are separated in the cable and see if that makes a difference?
Separating the video/audio grounding points may make a notable difference. Even with all the grounds connected back at TV/PC, the electrons still seek the shortest path of least resistance. If you can give the audio a ground return that is a little more direct, it will take it, and interfere less with your video ground return.
Video and audio signals operate at very different frequency levels (Mhz vs Khz) and there is usually some frequency filtering, so providing better ground returns may help.
Having said this, you will probably still get some interference, a kind of variable hum, sometimes sounds like a Jedi light sabre, with running the game audio output through the TV. In my experience, the hum varies mostly with screen brightness, a strong indication of voltage regulation issues. There are some very powerful voltages going around in TVs, and their voltage regulation and noise filtering can only do so much.
This is why, whenever I use a TV for a cab, I usually prefer a separate audio amplifier with its own power supply. Effectively, this separates the video and audio systems. The TV speakers can be re-used for $zero if you want, or get some new ones (speaker are where prices can be whatever you are willing to pay). There are some some decent & inexpensive audio board amps available with a range of features, choose according to your taste (prices vary with features, but around $5 to $30, check your marketplace). This also makes it easier to control things like volume, bass/treble etc.
In my current Aussie lowboy build I'm using a ZX-502MT (cost <$10) like this (clicking on pic will take you to the thread discussion):
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=164992.0;attach=391154;image) (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,166352.msg1756157.html#msg1756157)
Finally, installing a ground loop isolator for the audio inputs may help. There are many simple board-type audio isolators available under $10, so worth a try. They come with a range of different input/output options for attaching audio cables, from RCA connectors to screw terminals to 3.5mm and combos. Search your favourite online marketplace. For example:
Audio ground loop isolator (https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/111958668428?chn=ps&_ul=AU&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=705-139619-5960-0&mkcid=2&itemid=111958668428&targetid=1279751774549&device=c&mktype=pla&googleloc=1000286&poi=&campaignid=9772799667&mkgroupid=123973272138&rlsatarget=pla-1279751774549&abcId=578876&merchantid=116302102&gclid=CjwKCAjwi8iXBhBeEiwAKbUofcert13bXLfHILgbwAOosFkSESXkXOyW9lTh2AZo_2wPoK-CGslochoCGlgQAvD_BwE)
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Hello. Is it possible to buy the dongle assembled? A friend of mine is interested.
So that mod for passthrough dongle i was working on is done. This one is a double-ended version, male HD15 to female HD15. It has the LED's, taking in H-sync and V-sync and allowing C-sync through only when it detects 15kHz, blocking everything else. It allows you to plug in any VGA or VGA-toBNC or -SCART cable to the out end as required.
Points to note:
-You will need to wire the RGB lines from input to output yourself.
-You will need to wire up all the input/output pins on the PCB including all ground lines (just in case)
-You will need to fab the board at 0.8mm thick.
-You will need to either use a PCB HD15 male plug or trim a solder HD15 male plug. (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001418455591.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1f164c4dN9vaBg)
-You will need to 3D-print the housing for yourself :)
-Make sure you have the means to program the PIC before doing anything else like ordering parts!
More general info is in this thread :)
PCB - https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/mMqybOjf
housing - https://anonfiles.com/vbg3f5J7p0/DB9_double_mine_-_complete_tiny_v5_stl PM for updated link, pls!
(https://i.imgur.com/16Qu2cJ.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/bNxo4n2.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/WS3UHm8.jpg)
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Well, for the record, i don't build them to sell as there wouldn't be any profit in it. I did make one or two spares though, so PM me and we can work something out :)
EDIT: Gambaman, did you PM me?
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gambaman (SCART VADER)
I see that you back in 07/28/2020 improved the resolution switching.
Is there any way to improve it even further?
Seeing as some games in Retroarch are struggling when switching from 240p to 480i.
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Well, for the record, i don't build them to sell as there wouldn't be any profit in it. I did make one or two spares though, so PM me and we can work something out :)
EDIT: Gambaman, did you PM me?
PM sent
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So that mod for passthrough dongle i was working on is done. This one is a double-ended version, male HD15 to female HD15. It has the LED's, taking in H-sync and V-sync and allowing C-sync through only when it detects 15kHz, blocking everything else. It allows you to plug in any VGA or VGA-toBNC or -SCART cable to the out end as required.
Points to note:
-You will need to wire the RGB lines from input to output yourself.
-You will need to wire up all the input/output pins on the PCB including all ground lines (just in case)
-You will need to fab the board at 0.8mm thick.
-You will need to either use a PCB HD15 male plug or trim a solder HD15 male plug. (https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005001418455591.html?spm=a2g0s.9042311.0.0.1f164c4dN9vaBg)
-You will need to 3D-print the housing for yourself :)
-Make sure you have the means to program the PIC before doing anything else like ordering parts!
More general info is in this thread :)
PCB - https://oshpark.com/shared_projects/mMqybOjf
housing - https://anonfiles.com/vbg3f5J7p0/DB9_double_mine_-_complete_tiny_v5_stl PM for updated link, pls!
I'm very interested in building this! Do you have a components list to complete this project? I think I have them all figured out (pretty green in this realm) just not sure on the 10n cap--is it utilizing this one?... https://es.rs-online.com/web/p/condensadores-ceramicos-multicapa/5373369
Also I'm too new to this forum, so can't PM for your updated model link.
Thanks!
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I have uploaded the model here - https://anonfiles.com/W3EaXel0z2/DB9_double_complete_tiny_v5_stl
The caps and the resistors are all 1206 SMD packages. The caps are 10nF and 100nF - and are optional, though recommended, i think. (The cap you linked to was not SMD/surface-mount and was 2.2nF)
Make SURE you have a device that can program the PIC first, like a PicKit 3 or something.
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gambaman (SCART VADER)
I see that you back in 07/28/2020 improved the resolution switching.
Is there any way to improve it even further?
Seeing as some games in Retroarch are struggling when switching from 240p to 480i.
Sorry, I have just read your post. Not sure what you mean. A resolution switch should just deactivate the output for a pair of frames.
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I have decided to make a small batch of the passthrough protection dongles for sale. I'll put up a separate post with more info shortly.
Gambaman, i'd love to talk to you about compiling your code for myself - my last attempt at this went pear-shaped and it'd be nice to figure out what I'm doing wrong :)
EDIT: righto, my sale thread was moved to the correct place by Scott :)
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,167729.0.html
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I have uploaded the model here - https://anonfiles.com/W3EaXel0z2/DB9_double_complete_tiny_v5_stl
The caps and the resistors are all 1206 SMD packages. The caps are 10nF and 100nF - and are optional, though recommended, i think. (The cap you linked to was not SMD/surface-mount and was 2.2nF)
Make SURE you have a device that can program the PIC first, like a PicKit 3 or something.
The link is no longer working.
But would you be willing to add your dongle to Hackaday with instructions? :notworthy:
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The link is no longer working.
But would you be willing to add your dongle to Hackaday with instructions? :notworthy:
I have split the body and the lid, and added a version of the lid that has holes so you don't have to drill. You may still need to chase them with a drillbit.
https://anonfiles.com/v0b5K46dz6/DB9_double_mine_lid_v3_with_holes_stl
https://anonfiles.com/udbfKa6ez0/DB9_double_mine_lid_v2_no_holes_stl
https://anonfiles.com/wfb8K46cz3/DB9_double_mine_body_v2_stl
And no, sorry, i am not keen to write up more details instructions - too busy with the kids. Everything you need is in this thread, and the little PCB is stencilled with part values. Passive SMDs are all 1206 sized, though 0805 will fit. I might be able to answer specific questions, if you need.
I will say again though, make sure you have the means to program the PIC before anything else :)
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I hate to bother you after you've already reuploaded it, but anonfiles has shut down.
So yeah. I'm afraid that you'll have to reupload again.
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Happy to upload again, don't know why i never shared it here :)