Main Restorations Software Audio/Jukebox/MP3 Everything Else Buy/Sell/Trade
Project Announcements Monitor/Video GroovyMAME Merit/JVL Touchscreen Meet Up Retail Vendors
Driving & Racing Woodworking Software Support Forums Consoles Project Arcade Reviews
Automated Projects Artwork Frontend Support Forums Pinball Forum Discussion Old Boards
Raspberry Pi & Dev Board controls.dat Linux Miscellaneous Arcade Wiki Discussion Old Archives
Lightguns Arcade1Up --- Bug Reports --- Site News

Unread posts | New Replies | Recent posts | Rules | Chatroom | Wiki | File Repository | RSS | Submit news

Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10

Started by knave - Last post by RandyT

I actually quite like the concept. Sure, it's basically just an X86 laptop (or tablet) in another form factor, but that's not necessarily a bad thing.

I bought a second-hand Dell tablet for less.  i7 processor, pretty much the same memory and more storage, nice size high-res screen and thin.  Never tested it's gaming ability, but if the integrated GPU is capable of doing a reasonable job at similar res and detail levels as a steam deck, it would have a lot more utility with the simple addition of a bluetooth game controller.  As a lark, I might try dual-booting SteamOS on it to see what it does.  But this form factor with a capable APU would be my preference.  I've had a lot of handhelds over the years which end up collecting dust because with gaming, screen size is king, and I don't do public transportation.

Started by argonlefou - Last post by argonlefou

Thanks, but the grahic enhancements are limited, mainly because of how the assets are packed and mapped but also because the game is rendering 2D sprites in low res

On the other hand, this is a good thing as it keeps everything at the right place, no matter what size/res the window is.

I still have a few available ones to change to add what was stripped away from the arcade (insert coins, etc...)

Started by RandyT - Last post by RandyT

I've been quietly following this thread waiting for you guys to figure out the best leds/spacing/ect.   Once you do it's rather trivial to send rumble/led commands to a wiimote, which of course could be hacked to control a solenoid.

For the LEDs, the ones BadMouth found are working really well.  I can't imagine a reason for looking further, unless one has a specifically different type of installation in mind (i.e. projector).  But I very much recommend that they be tested with a standard 1.5v battery (or a bench supply set to 1.5v if you have one) prior to soldering.  The third string I put together was dead when I tested it, and I was extremely conscious to the polarity so I knew it wasn't a wiring error on my part.  Turns out that the first LED in the string was completely dead, and either it was that way out of the package, or I put a little too much heat to it, which is possible, but unlikely.  I also noticed that at least one of them I tested from the package had a very different current draw at the same voltage as the others, which is really only observable with a bench supply or a meter.  If possible, it's a good idea to look at this as well before making the string. 

But so far, I have had these running for many hours without issues, which brings me to another point.  BadMouth's observation about the 840nm having an advantage of being slightly visible, to help prevent leaving them on when not in use, is spot on.  They are absolutely not distracting during use (I don't even see them), but serve as a gentle reminder to turn them off, which I have forgotten to do on several occasions.

RE: Positioning.

I've used the little application I made twice, and both times everything just worked after eyeballing positions against the lines on the screen after the measurements were taken.  As the last one was on my 37" CRT, it also helped to adjust the image size and position properly.  Honestly, positioning was the easiest part.  TIP:  if using this on a CRT, set it and forget it (size and position).   If you like to twiddle knobs on your CRT, you will screw up your nice calibration.  In that sense, flat panels are more dimensionally stable.

RE: Rumble.

The software already sends a rumble to the remote on trigger press, so it wouldn't be hard to turn that into a solenoid actuation.  The trick would be to come up with a "driver" for each game to inject it into the control stream, without messing up the core function of the Lichtknarre software.  But I expect that may be possible at some point using the plug-in system he has planned.

4   GroovyMAME / Re: I2c Ardiuno Bridge to Edit Vsizeon Today at 11:09:41 am

Started by darknezz19 - Last post by R-Typer

Hey, this is great! Will this work on Sony Trinitrons CRTs which have their own mind when positioning geometry is in question?

Started by b4nd1t0 - Last post by b4nd1t0

0.250 builds, ready linux and win, this is a full build, not only arcade

Started by stpcore - Last post by Thunderspy0712

Do you have Championship I and II CD can you link on your Google Drive

Started by pakoman - Last post by pakoman

VRR is Variable Refresh Rate (G-Sync and Freesync).

A LCD can sync at variable vertical refresh rates between a range so it's not limited any more to a fixed 60hz.

Started by samco - Last post by samco

Hi @DemmyTree, it looks like a connection problem. "Device not available!" basically mean the ItsyBitsy cannot connect to the camera so you could double check you've got all the wires round the right way and try again. But I think it's probably more likely you just not getting a good connection because nothing is soldered in.

Started by knave - Last post by yotsuya

I love mine. Played Assassinís Creed IV on flights to Chicago and NYC last month. Itís great for casual gaming.

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

10   Everything Else / Re: RIP - The Dead Celebrity Threadon Today at 12:13:54 am

Started by Ginsu Victim - Last post by lilshawn

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10