The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: bimm25e on December 28, 2013, 08:32:24 pm
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Just got my GBS-8100 in the mail today and I am JUICED to get it in line but I see its going to need a 5V 1A power supply. Its going in a HyperSpin cabinet, can I use the 5V power from the PC's power supply? Or should I try to find a wall-wart with the proper voltage?
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+5v from a PC power supply will work fine. I've ran my GBSboard that way in the past and had o issues.
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+5v from a PC power supply will work fine. I've ran my GBSboard that way in the past and had o issues.
Thanks I can +1 this now.
now my next question, is there any way to SAVE the adjustments I make in the OSD when the device loses power - kind of a pain to have to recalibrate every time I turn the PC on.
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bimm25e
i am picking a few of the up
i think we can add a bat for backup
just need to wait to get the spec paperwork
like u have now..maybe u could copy it
and post it or send it to me ?
and i can tell u better before hand,as mine are 10 days away
ed
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Unfortunately, the only information I have on the unit is from this only moderately informative PDF
http://www.digitalsystemsdesign.co.uk/product_uploads/13153855771.pdf (http://www.digitalsystemsdesign.co.uk/product_uploads/13153855771.pdf)
I've got it installed now and really don't want to mess with it but I'm VERY interested in your battery idea for saving the settings.
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from what i have read it goes >the settings< to flash/sd ram
so they should auto save
olny way to find out is to run it,do the menu thing
save,remove power..wait about 3 mins
power back up and see if it saved them..if so no need for a bat
if not then we will need to find where to tag 1
as i stated mine will not be here for 10 days yet
ed
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My on screen display has very very limited options
H size
v size
brightness
contrast
hue
saturation
sharpness
"menu background" (which puts black bars behind the menu options - very dumb feature)
and the last one is something like "twitch" or "jitter" can't remember what it was
definitely no "save" option
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well an easy test is to set the horz freq and vert freq lower by a tad lets say 4#'s
write them down so u can rember them
then once u exit
power unit down
and wait 3 mins
then plug it back in and see if the values still match ?
if they do then u know it is auto saving,if not then it means u will need to tag a bat in
ed
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ok i was reading over at hackaday
they used this same board..btw it is what turned me onto it
here is some of it
>The only way would be to use video downscaling. This part was hard to solve. We knew we had to downscale our 31Khz VGA signals to 15Khz RGB lines and this is no easy task, it requires powerful video algorithms and heavy processing using dedicated chips. Professional equipments to do this job usually cost hundreds of Euros (or more).
So we though we’d go through the old underground forums and dedicated pages for arcade parts in the hunt for a solution. And we found it.
Our pick is the GBS 8100. This beautiful piece of hardware takes VGA input at 31Khz, downscales the video and is able to output it at 15Khz over RGBS pins (which can be connected directly to the arcade CRT board, cable included), VGA db9, RCA composite video or S-Video. Furthermore it has an OSD menu system and you can calibrate brightness, contrast, video offsets and other details. Requires 5V to operate. And it costs approximately $30.
<
>link
http://hackaday.com/2012/12/17/using-arcade-monitors-with-the-raspberry-pi/ (http://hackaday.com/2012/12/17/using-arcade-monitors-with-the-raspberry-pi/)
<
come down to the part about using a rasberry pi..follow the gbs-8100 link
ed
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Yeah I saw that article but there wasn't too much info there worth reading IMO.
My problem is a little unique in that I have the GBS-8100 in a switching cabinet... so I need to adjust the device to match the other source (a NAOMI) in my cabinet.
The guys who made the raspberry pi arcade had the luxury of adjusting their chassis to the board's defaults they probably don't have to fiddle with the board's defaults at all.
I can get the board matched to the NAOMI but when I cut power, even for a split second, I lose my settings in the device.
For the time being I'm going to just leave the PC/GBS-8100 powered on constantly. I don't like it but that's the plan for now.
IF you end up with a battery-save solution PLEASE post on the forum.
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thk-u for testing
now we know we need a bat in there
as soon as i get my boards in
that will be the first thing i look at
and will def. post for u
ed
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Haha no rush Ed
Thanks for all the help though! you da man
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Hi, not sure you are still interested, but I am working on a backup solution for that GBS8100 card.
It is a simple card that is connected to the 8100, listens to key presses and stores the configuration in EEPROM.
On system restart, it simulates key presses on the 8100 and reapplies your changes.
It works perfectly today and I am working on a more compact proofboard version before I integrate it to my cab.
I can / will post more details if anyone is interested.
Aurélien
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Here is a demo of the system initializing configuration on startup. The GBS 8100 and the card share the power source.
https://youtu.be/wcV1byq4-Yk (https://youtu.be/wcV1byq4-Yk)
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Hi,
I'm interested. Please provide more details. Thanks in advance.
Wojtek
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Hi, I am really sorry for the late reply. I saw your message 2 weekd ago (I thought I would be notified, but I haven't been).
It took me these two weeks to create an account on GitHub and publish the source code ;-)
Here it is:
The code is here: https://github.com/Aurelien34/GBS8100Save/
The board schema is here: https://easyeda.com/Bouz/GBS-8100-save
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Hi there. In case someone is still interested in that project, I have made a new version of the addon card for the GBS8100.
It now detects resolution changes and reapplies parameters when needed.
I have done a video explaining how the board works (imho), the differences with other cheap boards on the market, and how to connect it to a SCART cable.
The video is in french, but I have added english subtitles of you are interested.
https://youtu.be/OCfcdlBVBqQ
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Hello, I just saw this video of the new circuit. I find that very interesting and would like to do it for my arcade cabinet. Would it be possible to get the circuit and code for the ATTINY?
Thanks