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Hello everyone, I'm trying to configure the vector games as best they can because they can't be seen on my monitor. The writings, especially the smaller ones, do not read well. It seems as if there is an effect that makes the image vibrate. I tried to follow some suggestions from the older posts, but I didn't get a good result. How could I configure the vector.ini to have the best result? Thank you in advance.

ok, i see.... it seems there is a tiny bit of synchronization jittering going on, but I'm not really sure where you might start looking. not sure if this is an original pacman  game board or if it's an xxx-in-1 type deal, but it could be your game board having a variance in timing or something as it seems to be doing it in a vertical direction to the monitors scan direction. maybe a power supply introducing noise? could just be a bad ground somewhere give the video cable a wiggle and clean up the board contacts and make sure everything has a good connection.

it could be something in the monitor. there is a timing capacitor for the vertical deflection circuit. it's gonna be a small (like 100uF 35v (C9?) near the vertical deflection IC) cap that's responsible for the main timing ... it's constant charge/discharge being the "heartbeat" of the timing for the vertical circuit to go to the next line. if it's starts getting old and flakey, it can cause jitteriness... it's usually much more noticeable than this and you end up with weird overlapping and foldunder and stuff so it could just be marginal.

it's not something to really worry about. i mean it's not doing too much... just a little annoying if you stare at it looking for it. if you have a screenful of stuff moving around and you are playing it, you aren't going to notice it.

if it's really getting to you and you really need to do something about it... if you have another monitor or another gameboard/power supply you can try... see if it's coming out of the board like that or it's the actual monitor doing it, becasue honestly, it could be either one doing it from what i can see.

if not, and your monitor has never been serviced, maybe start with a cap kit for your monitor and see if it still does it. they are pretty cheap insurance for the future and will make that monitor outlast you... but will also MOSTLY eliminate the monitor as a source of the jitter.

Thank you very much. I tried with other original mvs and pandora box, the problem on the monitor did not change.
not related to the game.
As you said, it can be fixed as a result of cap kit change.

Forgot to mention… could I use the joystick you posted below for the bat or was to aim with it?

Could I use the links below for either the analog aim and or modify it with a spring to add a bat for swinging?

You can use the U360 for the analog aim.
- AFAIK the design of the U360 does not allow you to add a 3rd-axis spring-loaded potentiometer on the bottom of that stick.

The closest thing I've seen to combining an analog stick and the bat control in a single control is a 3 axis analog stick like this one.



The two problems with this approach are that:
(1) The twist top is spring loaded to the center position.
(2) Not sure how combining the joystick and bat into a single control would mess with game play.   

. . . or did you mean use one U360 for aim and mod a second U360 for the bat control?
- That might be doable, but would be a bit on the expensive side.
-----------------
You can use the Leonardo board you linked to as an analog encoder for the bat control design shown in the diagram in reply #11 above.   


Scott

Sorry I meant one joystick to aim/move cursor  and another for the spring loaded bat

This is the way to make a simple, discreet, dedicated, home music player/jukebox. 

Looks great!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I've been wanting to do this.  I found a very cheap used Walmart Windows 10 tablet (ONN brand with...get this....64gb of storage), and designed a new skin to use with my vintage radio collection.  Since it's a tablet that I didn't want to use as a hold-in-my-hand tablet, I looked around for how people have used tablets and found a stand design that I modified for my use.  I still need to stain it and correct the birch plywood insert that covers the tablet, but I'm pretty happy with the result.  It holds my lifetime's music library and did accomodate my 400gb microSD card.  100% touchscreen, DWJukebox and Touchjams.

EDIT:  Just forgot to mention that the audio is via the tablet PC's built in Bluetooth.

Could I use the links below for either the analog aim and or modify it with a spring to add a bat for swinging?

You can use the U360 for the analog aim.
- AFAIK the design of the U360 does not allow you to add a 3rd-axis spring-loaded potentiometer on the bottom of that stick.

The closest thing I've seen to combining an analog stick and the bat control in a single control is a 3 axis analog stick like this one.



The two problems with this approach are that:
(1) The twist top is spring loaded to the center position.
(2) Not sure how combining the joystick and bat into a single control would mess with game play.   

. . . or did you mean use one U360 for aim and mod a second U360 for the bat control?
- That might be doable, but would be a bit on the expensive side.
-----------------
You can use the Leonardo board you linked to as an analog encoder for the bat control design shown in the diagram in reply #11 above.   


Scott

Could I use the links below for either the analog aim and or modify it with a spring to add a bat for swinging?

360 Ultimarc Stick
https://www.ultimarc.com/arcade-controls/joysticks/ultrastik-360-oval-top-clone/

KEYESTUDIO 5V Leonardo R3 ATmega32u4 Board with USB Cable Kit for Arduino Microcontroller MCU Project https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B0786LJQ8K/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_XMNJ33TAVQ9X73X8BERP?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1

The LED controller, are separate from the encoder,

Then why does this device make it seem like they aren't separate? This is where the confusion stems from...

https://www.ultimarc.com/control-interfaces/i-pacs/i-pac-ultimate-i-o/

In the case of that Ult. I/O board (and the LED-Wiz+GP), the encoder and LED controller are on one PCB and they share the USB connection, but the software configuration and wiring you need to do are the same as if they were on separate PCBs.

For the encoder part of the PCB, you still have to configure the front end, games, emulators, and maybe the encoder (you may not want to use some of the MAME default "modifier" keystrokes  ) plus you have to wire the switches/spinner/trackball to the encoder part of the board as you would with a standalone encoder like an IPac2 or GP-Wiz40.

For the LED controller part of the PCB, you still have to configure the front end and LEDBlinky plus you have to wire the LEDs to the LED controller part of the board as you would with a standalone LED Controller like a PacLED64 or an LED-Wiz.

Like Arzoo suggested, you may want to start by getting the front end, games, and encoder part up and running before you work on the LEDs and LEDBlinky part.


Scott