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PROJECT COMPLETE!
I've posted the link to the reveal video here so you don't have to dig to page 40 to find it.
The link below works even though the vimeo thumbnail doesn't...
Mission Control Final Countdown Video! (http://vimeo.com/27934836)
TABLE OF CONTENTS
CABINET RENDERS
Cabinet pinup (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg264190#msg264190)
Final design (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg530054#msg530054)
Why the solid wood and all the detail? (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg427580#msg427580)
Vintage Mission Control 1983 Videogame Magazine "Ad" (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=34074.msg295326#msg295326) Different thread
Off topic Ricardo Montalban Ad (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg425667#msg425667)
SIDEART
Rocketsprocket side art cut from plasma jet (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg193979#msg193979)
Rocketsprocket side art arrives (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg214636#msg214636)
GARAGE FLOOR
Carving Toyworks logo into floor (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg272981#msg272981)
Finished garage floor (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg525225#msg525225) Non chronological
MARQUEE
Dimensional marquee jig for plastic bending (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg274772#msg274772)
Test plastic (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg306825#msg306825)
Bending plastic with torches (outer face) (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg312284#msg312284)
Bending plastic with heatstrip (inner face) (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg336651#msg336651)
Trimming plastic to size (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg399124#msg399124)
Finished marquee plastic (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg414337#msg414337) Non chronological
Making the "marquee box" panels (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg594535#msg594535) Non chronological
CONTROL PANEL
Drilling plastic top (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg413265#msg413265)
Trackball hole polishing (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg414823#msg414823)
First CP panel - particle board (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg428356#msg428356)
Second (actual) CP panel - MDF (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg450467#msg450467) Non chronological
Final shiny trackball hole (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg450477#msg450477)
Final control panel (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg461017#msg461017)
SIDE PANELS
Paper printout (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg420777#msg420777)
Surfacing 2" thick solid wood (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg424637#msg424637)
Creating the MDF template and gluing up 4x8' panel (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg424683#msg424683)
Final glued-up panels. Cutting to shape with MDF template (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg443665#msg443665)Non chronological
Final sides (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg468837#msg468837) Non chronological
NAVPANEL
Navpanel layout (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg503341#msg503341)
Navpanel templates (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg505169#msg505169)
NavPanel cutting. Final navpanel with temporary art (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg523689#msg523689)
Slot loading drive custom mount (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg725587#msg725587)Non chronological
MULTILAYERED CURVED BEZEL
Bezel construction (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg723941#msg723941)
Finished bezel against curved arcade monitor (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg728919#msg728919)
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BEGIN THREAD:
I'm in the final drafting phase of Stage 2 of my cabinet project, Mission Control. I couldn't be prouder of the final design, though I know it's gianormous marquee and cartoony curves will earn their fair share of criticism. ::) It features a 3 panel marquee a-la Dragon's Lair/Space Ace, a backlit instruction panel above the monitor, and a small control strip (for front end navigation and options) between the main CP and the monitor bezel.
Below is a rendering of the cabinet I put together to show my wife that a Mame cabinet really can look like a piece of furniture...however tragic I find that comparison ;) The sides will be New Zealand rosewood and the trim will be black walnut. The "side art" I'm planning (if I actually get around to it) will be metal lettering cut to match the logo on the marquee, trimmed with blue EL wire or perhaps illuminated from behind.
The center front panel of the CP's 3 sided base will be modified to drop flat with an illuminated keyboard removed from it's case and embedded in it's own mini lexan control panel on the backside of the door panel.
Mission Control was the name of my favorite arcade as a kid. It worked well as the name for my CP when I made the overlay and the play on words was a fun coincidence. The small title you see beneath Mission Control says "The Simulacrum" which, as the dictionary defines it, is a "convincing representation of reality"...appropriate for a project dedicated to emulation.
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And the marquee. All artwork on all the cab is 100% vector.
;D
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That cabinet is BEAUTIFUL. :o
Anyone who pans that design is a heathen! It kinda gives me an Alice in Wonderland feel . Make it, make it, make it!!!!!
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That is awesome! A nice spin on the basic cab design. Kinda strikes me as having some "computer space" flavor to it, though it looks nothing like a computer space cab. I guess its the curves. Definitetly a welcome variation. You have much respect from me as that design will probably be a bit more difficult to cut than most. I know curves are not my cutting specialty. I can't wait to see the finished product. It's definetly a unique design. Good luck and post pics as soon as its done.
-Kevin
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I think it is totally awesome!!!!! I wish I had your design/assembly skills. Great work!!!!!!!
Cameron
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Okay, you must show us more images. Your cabinet is awesome! I love the design! I really like the backlit instructions.
-Tom
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um WOW !! :D
Now thats some cabinet right there.BUILD IT ! !
Impressive !
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very nice original design. kudos!
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Looks great! Very organic :) How tall is it? Looks like the CP is kind of low. Love the marquee lettering.
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Oh wow! That is going to be one sweet looking machine! Very classy and retro at the same time!
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Very nice indeed, love the colour scheme of teh marquee/cp, would love to see some more renderings if you have any. Good work :)
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Better not show that to my GF or I will have to build a new cab and scrap the old one ;)
Very nice design, I really hope you follow this through, would really like to see this one "in the flesh".
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Really cool different look! I would've used something other than that stained woodgrain look on the sides but that's just me!
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Cool design. It has a 50's "space age" look to it.
I'm just curious... How do you plan on transfering that design to wood? Those don't look like constant radius curves... Are you going to make a large template? CNC machine it?
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Thanks for all the feedback! I like that Alice in Wonderland comment... I wanted the cabinet to have a sort of cartoony "caricature" like feel to it...kind of like the arcade@home logo (which was my initial inspiration for the hugeness of the marquee).
Frosty - the cab is 6' 5.5" tall at the apex of the curve along the top edge-basically a monster. The CP is 32.5" from the ground at the front and (approximately) 35.5 at the back...(so it's at a pretty sharp angle - which I may reduce). The perspective may be a bit wonky in the pic since it's not to exact scale in the room enviornment ...I just sort of dropped it in to show my wife.
Radical - you're right - nothing standard about those curves- As far as laying them out goes, I plan on getting the outline plotted or printed on a large format roll printer (at the local architectural service bureau printing place). I may have to join a couple of sheets to do it. Depending on how well that works as a stencil, I may transfer it to a thin sheet of MDF to use as a template/cutting guide.
I'm going to post more detailed, close-up pics as soon as I can refine the art and the texture placement for the CP, control strip and info panels.
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cool. Heh I just noticed that must be the best sample screenshot ever...it's what I used when designing my cab :)
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that cab is " SEXY " ahh man! :D
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That is by far the best looking homebuilt design I have ever seen. Man, oh man, do I ever want to see the final incarnation. Good luck!
APf
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That thing is sweet. Dang! that thing is super original looking. Its kinda inspirational*. Whats the "little marquee thingy" below the 3 panel super marquee?
*Thats what I like about this site you get to see different ideas. Great Job. Hope to see pics of the real thing!
You can do it!
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Man, oh man, do I ever want to see the final incarnation.
:) You and me both! Hopefully it won't be long. Construction begins on Jan 28th - (when I get after hours access the the big power tools at the local high school woodshop)!
Doc - It's the curves :-*
g_e -
Oh, yes, there will be pics of the real thing. More than anyone will care to d-load! I'll have a dedicated site up chronicling the entire construction process with plenty of close up macro shots of all the details! When researching for my panel design I was always frustrated to see great examples at thumbnail resolutions.
The mini-marquee thing is a backlit instruction panel mounted above the monitor, it's recessed back into the cabinet so the Super-Marquee (TM) ;) hangs over it. I need a prominent instruction panel since I'll be parking this at work to let clients play on. It'll run )p('s Emulaxian front end, so I wanted to give people an easy reference for how the system works without having to explain it every 5 min. "Uh...whaddaya mean insert a coin?"
Today a co-worker and client were playing dual player Mario Bros. and Simpsons, and alternating 2 player Zaxxon, Donkey Kong, and Centipede on the control panel portion of the project. It was a solid hour or so of laughter, expletives, and "Aw, man you SUCK-take THAT" put down's and it convinced me that I have to finish the project if for no other reason than to enjoy it at work -where I spend most of my time. :-\
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Here's a render showing better detail-and an image of my Mission Control skin for Emulaxian. The left circle shows the "navigation panel" which will have buttons for use in the front end interface to keep the CP itself less cluttered. This panel is mounted at an angle slightly below the actual CP. The right circle shows the instruction panel. I haven't created the real artwork for these panels yet so these textures are temporary. The instruction panel will have quite a bit more info on it when done.
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WOW! The only problem that I have with this cab is that it doesn't exist yet. Can't wait to follow your build progress.
-S
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I agree, this is a great looking new cab idea. Is that a double layer marquee? Excellent! Might be enough incentive for me to stop using junker cabs and start from scratch!
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Doh!
Here's the strangest coincidence, and I'm only posting this so I don't look like a complete copy-cat once I finalize my cab design, but here's a sketch I roughed out for my idea last month (before I saw this):
(http://s90378193.onlinehome.us/images/flamestation.jpg)
It's tenatively called the "Flamestation" and there is certainly some similiarity (even though "Mission Control" is MUCH further along), so I thought it best to at least point that out now before I launch. I even had the same curve up by the marquee. Damn...I may just wait from your plans pixelhugger, so I can alter those...since I'm not very adept at the layout part. :) (if you were to release them. Hint. Hint.)
Also, I like some of the ideas on "Mission Control" and I may co-opt the double marquee (since it's way cool!)..but I hope to differentiate my design enough to make it worth sharing.
mrC
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Location: [Lowell, MA.]
ANOTHER New Englander! All right!
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Wow - that's eery! :o I don't imagine it would come off as a copy. That whole flame/curve design is really original. Do those front flames separate from the kick panel? And is that an arched/curved marquee?? Very cool!
As far as plans go, I'd be happy to share any of the resources I've been creating for my cab. I've got a full 3D model to accurate scale and soon I'll have a set of plans in pdf or eps format which I'd love to share. I've been planning on making everything available on my website anyway, though if it would help you to get stuff sooner, I can certainly set that up.
Very cool looking cab. Nicely done! It took me a gazillion sketches to get to where I am now, and I don't think I could have done it without the 3D manipulations. It sure gets tricky once you start putting it to scale on paper! ;)
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Sorry but i had to express my simple opinion!
BEAUTIFUL! :)
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Yeo! That thing is too cool! A true work of art it will be when completed! :)
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Wow - that's eery! :o
I think the concept is called "Morphic Reasonance" when unrelated ideas share a underlying simultaneous commonality. Happens to me all time, I just have to learn to work quicker! hehe
Do those front flames separate from the kick panel? And is that an arched/curved marquee?? Very cool!
Thanks! In theory, the front flames do seperate, but it might not lend itself to a sturdy construction. I plan on building a scale model to test. Yes! I definitely want the marquee to curve (convex) in a radius matching the curve of the CP.
I've been planning on making everything available on my website anyway, though if it would help you to get stuff sooner, I can certainly set that up.
Awesome! Don't rush on my account, but I'll certainly keep my eye out. I'm not an industrial designer by any means, so I'm going to have a huge challenge creating "real-world" measurements in a 3D environment. So I imagine your files would help tremendously in that arena. (What apps do you use? Me:3dsmax5 for now.)
Very cool looking cab. Nicely done! It took me a gazillion sketches to get to where I am now, and I don't think I could have done it without the 3D manipulations. It sure gets tricky once you start putting it to scale on paper! ;)
Ditto. I am definitely inspired by your design, and it fires me up to make my cab an absolute reality. I'm still in the sketching stages, so who knows how it'll turn out, enough thread-jacking for now... I'll start my own thread soon. ;D
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Very cool looking Pixel! I think it has a Tim Burton sci-fi/gothic look to it. :o
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A nice, tasteful original design - great work :)
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Thanks for all the great feedback :) I'm so glad it's coming across as I had hoped especially with the whole whimsical Lewis Carrol, Tim Burton thing. I was a bit nervous about the overall height since at 6.5 feet tall it's much larger than a classic cab. I just read thru the Arcade Reboot project site at http://www.ugiansky.com/arcade/default.htm That cab is exactly the same height and the builder points out that its dimensions can make you "feel like a little kid again playing a big machine." So that cinches it, since that's exactly how I want to feel :). All my initial concerns are out the window. Just in time to begin construction of the marquee in the coming week or so. WOO HOO!
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I was a bit nervous about the overall height since at 6.5 feet tall it's much larger than a classic cab. I just read thru the Arcade Reboot project site at http://www.ugiansky.com/arcade/default.htm That cab is exactly the same height and the builder points out that its dimensions can make you "feel like a little kid again playing a big machine."
I am in the finishing stages of my cab and it is 6' 5" tall and ~31" wide (not sure how it came out exactly the same!?) but I'm happy with it and it does give you that feeling like you are a kid again (dunno if its just playing the old games tho :) ) I say if you have the room, go for it!!
Brian
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That cab is going to rock!
You have given me some ideas and inspiration for my cab, thanks!
Very creative and different. I like seeing new ideas and designs. That's the cool thing about building a cab from scratch. You are not limited in the ways of converting an old cab.
I am building one from the ground up also, but still stuck in the planning stages. I got to get moving...
Thanks for sharing your great design.
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Curmudgeon... same Morphic Resonance thing just happened to me. Looking in this thread http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=10;action=display;threadid=13087 I saw Pedro had built a "navigation panel" exactly like what I've been planning. I assumed he got the idea from my project. I was surprized (and embarrassed for having thought otherwise) to find that not only was it his own original idea, he had already built it before I had even posted my render! :-[
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Curmudgeon... same Morphic Resonance thing just happened to me. Looking in this thread http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=10;action=display;threadid=13087 I saw Pedro had built a "navigation panel" exactly like what I've been planning. I assumed he got the idea from my project. I was surprized (and embarrassed for having thought otherwise) to find that not only was it his own original idea, he had already built it before I had even posted my render! :-[
:D No problem ... there are no rigths assign ... you can use it ;D and for all that matters ... you had an original idea also ... you have not seen mine before you came up with it ... ;)
Anyway, as I posted on that tread, if you have the knoledge (I didn't) to do it, I think your cab would look great if you put all the emulation buttons on the sides of the monitor (if you have the space for it) ... just a thought ... :)
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Hey, before I found this site, I thought hooking up arcade controls through a keyboard was an original idea! A good idea is a good idea. The really good ones seem to hit more than one person at more or less the same time. 8)
-S
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I finally got around to revising my artwork. This takes the whole thing in a blue direction as opposed to the purplish color I was previously using, so I'll have to update the marquee and skin too. Obviously the buttons and spinner are for layout only...those won't be printed ;)
A basic version of the Mission Control website should be up *relatively* soon. ::)
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That cabinet is gorgeous and inspirational! I'm now thinking I should consider building something outside of the (arcade) box. I can't wait to see your final results. Great concept!
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So what's the status with your project? Are you going to build it? I'm excited to see your results.
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I'm moving forward, though slowly. Been sidetracked lately in the artwork forum helping out on others' projects. Then there's work, the remodel at home, and the new baby coming in June. AAAAARGH. Never enough time! I'm in the process of making the 3 sided marquee and will post pictures soon. The website should launch in may or june.
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I'm moving forward, though slowly. Been sidetracked lately in the artwork forum helping out on others' projects. Then there's work, the remodel at home, and the new baby coming in June. AAAAARGH. Never enough time! I'm in the process of making the 3 sided marquee and will post pictures soon. The website should launch in may or june.
Whats a "3 sided marquee" again ???
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Like Dragon's Lair or Space Ace. There are 3 faces to the marquee similar to a bay window. From a bird's eye view, it would be shaped like half of a hexagon, if that makes sense.
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awesome...love the cab shape! :o
don't have any sideart! the polished wood finish is wonderful. very understated - pure class.
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Out of curiosity, how are you going to attach the back of the cabinet? Obviously the curve to the back makes things more difficult? Are you going to cut several pieces of wood, use a different material, or just use a single piece and fit it as well as possible?
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I've thought a lot about that. It'll definitely follow the curve of the cab. It's likely to be a thin sheet of plywood. Or several thin sheets "built up" and recessed in a rabbet along the back. If the plywood won't work I may use 1/8" MDF covered with very fine gauge sheet metal which should look good with the metal details I plan for the front of the cab. I'm still working on how to integrate access into the back. Worst case scenario, I'll have to use 3 separate pieces, with an access panel in the middle, although I'd really prefer to follow the entire curve more precisely than that.
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I've thought a lot about that. It'll definitely follow the curve of the cab. It's likely to be a thin sheet of plywood. Or several thin sheets "built up" and recessed in a rabbet along the back. If the plywood won't work I may use 1/8" MDF covered with very fine gauge sheet metal which should look good with the metal details I plan for the front of the cab. I'm still working on how to integrate access into the back. Worst case scenario, I'll have to use 3 separate pieces, with an access panel in the middle, although I'd really prefer to follow the entire curve more precisely than that.
If you make your access in the front of the cabinet you could always install the 5/8 or 3/4 mdf for support and then use the thin plywood or metal that you mentioned. The plywood/metal wouldn't have to support the rest of the unit then. The thicker pieces would give it extra support and the thinner material would give it the aesthetic look you're going for. Just an idea.
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Just an idea.
...and a very good one. :)
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First off, wonderful cabinet. I am looking forward to following your progress. Just one question about the control panel overlay. If you are using buttons with little people on them, is it the best use of text to put Player 1 and Player 2 over them? Perhaps start or something like that. Just a very minor point. You do great work!
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Hmmmmmm.... another good point. I guess simply START would be sufficient.
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Hello There.
Your cab really caught my attention and I just joined so I could say "WOW!".
I hope you build it. And then I hope you share plans so us cabless types can gain some inspiration and benefit from your expertise.
You seem to have found the 'look' I've always tried to describe and doodle for myself!
Like you said... You want to feel like you're that 12 year old playing again. EXACTLY.
Kudos. Best of luck getting it built.
One comment on the control panel.. I don't think you need two 'insert coin' buttons.. maybe one could be 'menu' to take you back to Emulaxian (my favorite front end as well).
Thanks for sharing your idea so far!
-CabLess
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where are the speakers going to go?
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The speakers go in the top behind the marquee lighting. Though it's pretty hard to see in the images I posted, the black section indicated by the arrow below is speaker fabric.
Cabless- Thanks! And welcome to arguably one of the best communities on the net - IMHO. ;D
Regarding the Emulaxian menu button... I'll actually have an entire control strip mounted above the CP for Emulaxian navigation. I'm still trying to decide what dedicated buttons/Emulaxian functions to use on it tho. Any input would be appreciated. I want the cab and FE navigation to be as self explanatory as possible for newbies, so I don't have to explain the same things over and over.
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What about labeling the buttons using either Happs ID tags or Labeling the button it's self and use Happs Protective Covers.
That way you can label each button like Genesis, SNES, NES, Arcade, Neo-Geo, Pinball, ect.
Or you could label each button with a function.... (Search, A-L, M-Z, Page Up, Page, Down)
You also wouldn't have to make a skin with a Tag pointing at each button, but a skin with generic instructions on using the buttons...
Just kind of an idea....
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That way you can label each button like Genesis, SNES, NES, Arcade, Neo-Geo, Pinball, ect.
That's a great idea... I hadn't thought of using them to access other emulator lists/sets. I was thinking of using the square illuminated Happs buttons on the control strip and printing artwork to put inside them. (I've become an backlightaholic).
Dedicated buttons for the different emulators would let me use the original logos... hmmmm. That'd look really cool.
DOH! Now I've got to make more room on the control strip.
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What about labeling the buttons using either Happs ID tags or Labeling the button it's self and use Happs Protective Covers.
That way you can label each button like Genesis, SNES, NES, Arcade, Neo-Geo, Pinball, ect.
Or you could label each button with a function.... (Search, A-L, M-Z, Page Up, Page, Down)
You also wouldn't have to make a skin with a Tag pointing at each button, but a skin with generic instructions on using the buttons...
Just kind of an idea....
Emulaxian allows you to use buttons to switch between emulators? Wow, that's a great feature. It's a shame Mamewah doesn't do that. I've spent the past several weeks putting stuff together for that.
I love the idea of backlighting the buttons and putting the logo on the button...fricking sweet!
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I finally got a decent camera position in Lightwave to show what the 3 sided marquee really looks like. Whenever I explain this to people I usually get a "huh?" Hopefully this illustrates the design better. Of course, to get this cool joystick's-eye-view perspective on the cab you'd have to flatten the side of your face against the control panel and roll your eyes back in your skull to stare up at the marquee, but at least it shows the 3 sides. And the speaker grille. :P
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What about labeling the buttons using either Happs ID tags or Labeling the button it's self and use Happs Protective Covers.
That way you can label each button like Genesis, SNES, NES, Arcade, Neo-Geo, Pinball, ect.
Or you could label each button with a function.... (Search, A-L, M-Z, Page Up, Page, Down)
You also wouldn't have to make a skin with a Tag pointing at each button, but a skin with generic instructions on using the buttons...
Just kind of an idea....
Emulaxian allows you to use buttons to switch between emulators? Wow, that's a great feature. It's a shame Mamewah doesn't do that. I've spent the past several weeks putting stuff together for that.
I love the idea of backlighting the buttons and putting the logo on the button...fricking sweet!
Not sure on that function specifically, we'll have to ask Peter, but you hit a button to launch a game, or switch gamelists, so the premise is the same.
BTW...I'm glad you like the Idea Mitch, because I love the Idea of a "Control Strip" and was going to ask if it was cool to use something similar on my cab, but now I don't feel so bad since I have kind of inspired you on what I was going to do with mine ;D Oh, yeah wanted to tell you got my hat, it rules...THX :)
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Dont' worry about asking my permission. It's not mine to give! I thought I was the first to think of it until I saw PedroSilva was well underway with his idea here (http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=10;action=display;threadid=13087) ....apparently a ways before I had even thought of mine. It's that old collective subconscious Jungian sychronicity convergent evolution thing.
Glad to hear you like the hat! ;D
Project update: worked on cabinet plans and m_ctl website flowchart this morning. Apart from the PDF of the basic plans which I'll be posting on my website (when it finally launches) I'm thinking of providing a free (well, cost of media+shippping) DVD-R of the plans with high resolution photos, 3D models and renderings, all the artwork files, front end files and skin (if OK with Peter ;)) and how-to video clips (especially for the convoluted marquee bending and jig making procedures) Is there enough interest in this to make it worthwhile for me to do?
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... how-to video clips (especially for the convoluted marquee bending and jig making procedures) ...
I haven't looked into it but wouldn't you be able to buy a Dragon's Lair or Space Ace marquee and use that with a new underlay? I'm not sure how they are put together so this could be a worthless suggestion.
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The design is a much different aspect ratio. Plus, bending plexi is fun since it involves fire. ::)
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Looks like things are finally coming together, can't wait to see this one ;D....have you decided what your going to do with the "Command Bar" yet? or which buttons to use?
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WOW Pixel, this is really coming together great. I really like your design.
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I was thinking of joining this forum for a while now so I could announce my project, but after seeing this absolute work-of-art, I decided to join immediately (I think that's how you spell that...). This is awesome, dude! :o I thought mine was going to be neat looking, but this just blows mine away, and I'm happy about saying that! It has a very retro look, and the form reminds me of those shapes they use on Nick-at-Nite.
Good Luck!
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PH.....any progress???
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Mission Control was the name of my favorite arcade as a kid.
Ha! I had a place in my neighborhood called Space Shuttle. As far as I know, it's a Radio Shack now but it was a good sized arcade. Man, if I had a nickel for every quarter I dropped in machines in that place, my mame cab project would have been FREE.
But in all seriousness, your cab design is way cool (wow, typing that made me feel like I was back in the 80's). Cannot wait to see how the actual machine materializes. Keep us posted.
Bumble
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This is the nicest machine I've seen...very clean, nice lines, great art and design. Marquee shape...well done.
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I think its amazing that you guys can commit something to paper and then turn it into the actual thing.
This is amazing, can't wait to see it.
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Well, while some may not consider this *progress* I thought I'd post a quick update to show my commitment to this project despite the lack of construction so far.
Completed a major revision to final 3D model for a subtle change in the appearance of the cab. When seen head on in my modeling app, the cab just wasn't "looming" like I wanted, so I canted the sides slightly inward toward the bottom so the top of the cab...the marquee in particular... feels a bit more characiture like and exaggerated. Model is now officially ready to transfer to actual construction drawings/joint details etc.... the final blue prints!! Now to make sure it's actually stable! :-[
I have spent a long time detailing the navigation panel (below the monitor) and laying out button positions. I'll be using Happs medium round illuminated buttons with my custom created Mission Control icons and graphics inside. )P( has uber-generously agreed to modify Emulaxian and provide me with an exe to support direct emulator selection via keystroke, so I can map buttons to each of the consoles I'll be running. See attached pic for a quick button mockup!
Construction will being in the next week or two! The nav-panel will be the first thing built as it requires huge amounts of detailing work... bullnose plexi etc. Pics coming soon. Even in it's rough layout form it's looking super cool... almost dashboard like. I'll be swiping Citizen Fish's idea of a PC Tachometer which measures CPU activitiy on a car tach. This should help further the dashboard look as well.
I've been doing a ton of commissioned graphics work and the results of that labor are now arriving. Yesterday I got 2 T-stick plus' with blue ball tops, quiet switches, and an ArcadeVGA card, today UPS came with a monitor bezel, round illuminated buttons, and a coin door with blue reject switches and quarter/token combo mechs. I am posting this not so much because anyone else will really care, but because I'm so excited to get going on this I can't sit still.... much less concentrate on WORK! I do consider all this progress... and hope it shows my fanatical obsession with completing this project - as these orders alone total over $400. Next comes the WG monitor, the PC, massive plexi sheets, blue cold cathode tubes, and wood wood wood.
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Wow that button looks cool.
All eyes are on this project so keep posting!
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Wow that button looks cool.
Thanks in large part to you. :) Santoro rocks!
These buttons look fantastic in person. I'm so eager to see them all lit up it's taking first priority on the construction front.
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....have you decided what your going to do with the "Command Bar" yet? or which buttons to use?
Yes. It will have buttons for the various Emulaxian navigation options, most of which will toggle between 2 settings:
3D Arcade View > List View (toggles btwn)
3D Mobile View > 3D Stationary View (toggles btwn)
Pick Game List
View favorite games > View all games (toggles btwn)
Game info/history
etc
It will also have buttons to switch immediately to a list of games for a particular emulator. So:
Atari 2600
Atari 5200 (?)
ColecoVision
Vectrex (?)
SNES
Genesis
Nintendo64
MAME
All of the buttons will have corresponding themed artwork printed on acetate (or mylar if I can afford it) and a consistent use of custom themed icons. The emulator direct select buttons will arch across the panel in a semi circle and the Emulaxian navigation buttons will flank them on either side. 3 blue cold cathode tubes will be recessed to protrude slightly from the plexi on each side to correspond with the "wing badge" 'semi-art-deco style' graphics (see CP graphics earlier in post)
The PC Tach with its beautiful chrome bezel will go top center above the arched buttons. The plexi protecting the art will be recessed into the wood and bullnosed so that the beveled edge extends just above the wood surface.
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sounds good mitch, yea we all can attest at the cost, only takes 1-2 items to start rackin up that $$$, the end results are worth the time my friend. Not to mention your smokin artsy-fartsy skills hehhehehe ;D
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I can't wait to see this thing, Pixel. Your ideas are going to make this even more impressive than the renderings already are. I love the idea of having the emulator buttons, and I think that will be a very convenient and cool-looking feature.
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....have you decided what your going to do with the "Command Bar" yet? or which buttons to use?
Yes. It will have buttons for the various Emulaxian navigation options, most of which will toggle between 2 settings:
3D Arcade View > List View (toggles btwn)
3D Mobile View > 3D Stationary View (toggles btwn)
Pick Game List
View favorite games > View all games (toggles btwn)
Game info/history
etc
It will also have buttons to switch immediately to a list of games for a particular emulator. So:
Atari 2600
Atari 5200 (?)
ColecoVision
Vectrex (?)
SNES
Genesis
Nintendo64
MAME
All of the buttons will have corresponding themed artwork printed on acetate (or mylar if I can afford it) and a consistent use of custom themed icons. The emulator direct select buttons will arch across the panel in a semi circle and the Emulaxian navigation buttons will flank them on either side. 3 blue cold cathode tubes will be recessed to protrude slightly from the plexi on each side to correspond with the "wing badge" 'semi-art-deco style' graphics (see CP graphics earlier in post)
The PC Tach with its beautiful chrome bezel will go top center above the arched buttons. The plexi protecting the art will be recessed into the wood and bullnosed so that the beveled edge extends just above the wood surface.
do you have a new pic of the "command bar?"
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Wow, I didn't realize you were that far along! Very interesting look, I imagine it fits into a home environment better than most designs.
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Hey Mitch.....those buttons look hella sweet!!!!
As far as the emu list goes....you forgot Daphne :(
Gotta have those laserdisk games.....A MUST! How can you have a space theemed cab and not have Space Ace on it?!?!? ;D
Anyway...looks fantastic and you mentioned a while back about a DVD-R with all the crazy things on it...you still plannin' on doin that?
Oh yeah....have you by chance considered going modular so you can swap out controls? If lack of artwork is a strike against, i've been toying around with the idea of actually making mini artwork pieces for each modular piece then sealing them somehow....or possibly cutting plexi in the same size as the panels and laying plexi over the top.
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Thanks Aceldamor! Yes I'll definitely be doing a DVD-R for anyone interested in the plans, models, art, etc. The plans themselves will be formal woodworking plans with complete joint details, angle measurements, procedure details and a construction plan... the whole 9 yards.... primarily because I don't trust my own ability to build something this complex without them and I think it would be a waste to put so much time into them only for them to be used once.
I did think about putting a Daphne button on there, but the only Laserdisc games I play are Space Ace, Dragon's Lair, and Cliff Hanger so it seems more practical to simply place models for those in the 3D arcade, or include them in the list of arcade games (even tho they don't rely on Mame). I may just buy the Digital Leisure versions since the picture quality is supposed to be amazing after having been remastered or retransfered (or something).
I also considered a rotating CP for quite some time, and have a ton of sketches to incorporate it. I decided against it, however, since it changed some of the cabinet proportions that were important to me and would have added a super-colossal amount of time to an already painfully slow construction process :P I haven't given much thought to alternatives like modular controls, but at the rate I'm going I'm sure I'll decide to switch course and incorporate them at the worst possible moment in the construction process! ::)
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not sure if i missed this but what frontend are you running that you can just press a button, and bring up another systems list of games? Thank you
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Emulaxian
While it currently doesn't support the assignment a keystroke to a specific gamelist, Peter - the FE's developer - has agreed to provide me with an exe that allows the assignment since he says it is an easy modification to make. WOO HOO! Of course it would be up to the user to create the list that the button would switch to. So in my case, I would create separate game lists for each console's ROMs and then assign each list to a keystroke.
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I'm wondering what stain/paint you will use for the "brown/grey" part that is shown on the front below the CP and along the bottom front edges?
I've often struggled with the idea of stained cabinet as I haven't seen many that I've liked. The entire cabinet stained the same color does not appeal to me.
Specifically, what I like about your color idea is that basically the sides are stained dark and the center portion (monitor, CP, coin area) is mostly black. I think I like that idea! And, it also appears to be a dark color stain...Nice!
Also, I'd love to steal some of those curves in your design whenever I get around to building my cab.
Great design.
JD
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OMFG! You're cabinet design is absolutely STUNNING! - It looks truly beautiful! I am now EXCEEDINLY jealous but would love to see how you're cab actually turns out. Like other have said, it's inspirational and is by far the BEST design I've ever seen (thus far)
Please, I implore you...make it NOW
Craig
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genericeric- I do have a number of pics of the new nav panel... but they are still just renderings and I'm close enough to having the real thing that I wanted to wait to post actual photos since I think people are going to start getting bored if I keep posting mockups! ::)
jdjuggler- I'm glad you like the different use of color across the cab. To answer your questions about the stains...
The sides will be solid hardwood. The large side panels will be New Zealand Rosewood... a hardwood with a natural color similar to aged cherry or koa. I will most likely finish this with no stain, probably a water based urethane or hand rubbed oil. The smaller darker sides that flank the kick-panel (coin area) will be black walnut. I really wanted to go with ebony, but since it is actually priced by the OUNCE - (forget about board foot) - and generally only available in pieces the size of a toilet paper tube I decided against it. If the walnut doesn't finish dark enough without a stain I will probably mix a custom tinted aneline dye to get it closer to ebony.
ras2a- :) :) :) I can't tell you how satisfying it is to hear words like "beautiful" and "stunning"
associated with an arcade cabinet. Construction was to begin tomorrow on the first portion. Now I am going out of town so it'll have to wait until next weekend. BLAST IT!!! My wife will be out of town with our kids for a week in august... so I'll hopefully be far enough along by then to make some big progress. It's such an overwhelming task with all the unusual details I plan on incorporating, that Im breaking the build down into sub projects...
Navigation panel
Marquee
Instruction panel (mini-marquee)
Cab frame
Metal side art(??)
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I still think your design is the best I've seen and I can't wait to see your progress. My wife and daughter left for about 5 days so that now gives me enough time to make some progress on my cabinet. I've drawn out the templates for my rotating control panel and I'm going to make a mockup of the sides of the cabinet. Hopefully I'll have them cut out and a general frame by the end of this weekend, but with this being my first project I know I'm going to be slow.
I love your idea of having console buttons but I'm going to stay with the Mamewah front end.
Keep us posted. I'm extremely interested in seeing what you accomplish.
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OK I promised myself I wouldn't do this, but I really need feedback. I'm attaching what is perhaps the cheesiest cornball mockup I've done yet for this project...(I just can't bring myself to model any more stuff to do this right) The blue lines are placeholders for CCFL lights which will be placed beneath oval vent-like slots in the plexi. The black line is a placeholder for a slot load DVD combo drive. All plexi edges will be bullnosed and polished.
Anyway, please look past the bad perspective and overall cartoony composite of this pic.... I need to get opinions on whether I should keep or loose the PC Tach (it charts intensity of CPU operation)
PC Tach pros IMO:
Cool chrome
Cool instrumental feel, kind of makes the nav panel dashboard-like
Interesting gimmickery
Retro.. sort of
PC Tach cons IMO:
Too aftermarkety?
Too automotive?
Faceplate doesn't match the style of the rest of the cab artwork and detail (my biggest concern).
Too gimmicky?
Too "uh, dude, what is THAT doing there.... that's LAME!"
So what does everyone else think? I'm too close to this to be objective now.
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So what does everyone else think? I'm too close to this to be objective now.
While it is an interesting concept, I don't really think it's necessary. I don't see CPU usage information as being all that valuable. And I'm guessing for most games in MAME it'll be running around the 0 level, since they don't require much CPU power. I'd leave the tachometer off and maybe put a graphic there in its place, possibly your cabinet's logo, something related to the theme, or even your avatar.
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Your project as a whole is going to be so completely different from a retail arcade cab that I think you can get away with something funky like the tach without it looking out of place.
It is a little automotive though. Can you dismantle it and create a new faceplate for it that more fits with your artwork? Or maybe work a little chrome into the artwork elsewhere to complement the tach?
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I agree. The tach is a really cool idea, but I don't really think it fits. It's a little too automotive, unless you can create an artwork and install it in there. Then you can make it fit however you want. You may want to consider putting a graphic there instead. Either way you go, it will look nice.
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Well, I don't actually have the Tach so I'm not sure if I can replace the faceplate... I'd have to get the needle off to avoid a seam in the artwork. Info online suggests it can be "disassembled" by a professional but cautions consumers against doing so.
That raises an additional con: I'd have to actually spend money on it. (Another reason I don't want to go forward on this without objective input).
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anychance of going with a real tiny lcd, and making the gauge digital readout? Worth a thought in my opinion, unless your goin for a particluar look there Mitch. Or get one of the colored led lit tachs, that all the ricer's think they gotta have. ;D
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How about sticking a small VGA LCD screen there with a little program running on it that shows things such as the game's controls / playtime / tips / etc. on there? That's what I'm planning for mine. I was thinking of "camoflaging" it in the artwork so it looks like a simple backlit logo or something, but in reality it's something more sinister 8) . It could also have themed messages such as "T minus 10 seconds to game launch!" and "Entering communications blackout" when shutting down and so on. Much more of a wow factor than a simple tach IMHO. That's my 2
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Emulaxian
While it currently doesn't support the assignment a keystroke to a specific gamelist, Peter - the FE's developer - has agreed to provide me with an exe that allows the assignment since he says it is an easy modification to make. WOO HOO! Of course it would be up to the user to create the list that the button would switch to. So in my case, I would create separate game lists for each console's ROMs and then assign each list to a keystroke.
it will be a no brainer as this functionality is already in there for the arcgate functions that allows you to cross jump to any gamelist in the hierarchy of the fe. I just have to bind it to the keyinputs too and at it to the cfg file to set it up.
tachometer..to gimmicky imho...remember Mies: "less is more" , even in a complex project..in the form that you ask yourself evert step of the way does it really contribute something to the organic whole...
update:
Faceplate doesn't match the style of the rest of the cab artwork and detail (my biggest concern).
I agree 100%....you spend so much time to get the feel ok across all artwork...
peter
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Your project is called "Mission Control" and I do NOT see how a tachometer fits into that theme. My vote is DON'T!
It looks like your mock "nav panel" (or whatever) is suddenly a classic car grill...This seems to have nothing to do with the "Mission Control" theme. I thought you were going for a more cool space theme, now you seem to want American Graffiti. Huh?
I would re-think/design it.
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I loved the original look of the cabinet.. but I think you've lost that direction with that tacho and slot load set up...
The thing I loved about the original "theme" was that it was so slick that it could almost have been some original cabinet from some lost manufactuer - it was that slick..!! I think you've gone down that "case modders" road where they just whack stuff everywhere and it ends up looking like it...
I think you need to try to make it look like it was some original proto-type and that means less = more..!!
In short: Make it looks near factoryl..!!
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I like it! The mock up looks cool and I feel it would only add to your already great design. Marquees are also not functional but they sure look cool on your cab, right?
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I would say no on the tach...while awsome in pocket's arcade...his is a driving cab.
The tach doesn't fit the "spacy" feel that your cab is themed.
I second the idea of a LCD screen.
The GBA screen idea or Howard's idea would be good there..that would fit the futuristic feel of your cab a little better.
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Survey says... no tach.
I'm really glad I posted this. I had hoped to get a perspective on whether the tach itself was a detraction from the design... but ended up getting a much more valuable perspective overall. The consensus seems to be to keep the entire panel simple. In thinking through the responses, I've decided I should probably simplify the button layout and nix the CCFL tubes as well.. unless they can be incorporated in to the artwork in a seamless and relevant way.
I had begun focusing so closely on this panel that I never even stepped back to look at the cab itself and envision how this thing would actually look in place. I loved the idea of the panel feeling dash-like as long as it did so with a retro sci-fi and NOT an automotive feel. The thing that bothered me most about the tach was the automotive look of the faceplate, but as Magnet points out... the whole design of the panel became automotive as a result of the tach being the focal point. American Graffiti! AAARGH! That is so true. Once again Magnet, you have nailed it. I can already hear the comments .... "those cabinet curves sure look like tail fins now you've put that tach in the middle"..."I love this cab, very 'Early Chevy" *shudders*
)P( - thanks for the comments. I have the highest regard for your opinion as your sense of design and ability to "brand" a project like this are second to none. Back to bauhaus for me! ... except of course for the curves on the sides! ;)
Thanks for the input everyone. I'll be posting a simplified no-tach mockup for feedback soon since this was so helpful.
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done :-) get the updated exe here:
http://echo.messageboard.nl/2243/viewtopic.php?t=1071
you can assign keys to any gamelist in the hierarchy...so you can also cross jump between the selsets...and you can even specify a game within the gamelist to jump to directly...
it works also with the onscreen buttons because you can assign virtual keystrokes to them ;-)
peter
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Hey Pixel, have you determined how you're going to cover the curved portions of your cabinet? I just cut my modified version of your cabinet design and I wanted to see if you had a great solution for that. I was planning on cutting some mdf so it can be set as close to the curve as possible, in order to give it support, and then I was going to ask at Home Depot what they recommended to hug the curves, for aesthetic purposes.
Before I did so I was wondering if you had an idea picked out.
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Pixelhugger:
I think the tach was a good idea, just not the automotive one.
A tach display for CPU Usage (maybe one above and one below) in digital bar form would look GREAT on that cabinet I think..
The problem with the tach the way it was, was that it looked like you took a clock from a 50's coffee shop and stuck it on a UFO. I think it was one of the cooler ideas, just not that SPECIFIC kind of tach.
oh well *shrug*
Looks GREAT so far. I'll keep checking back (of course)!
--NipsMG
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I just cut my modified version of your cabinet design
HOLY CRAP! You've cut the sides already!?! *shakes with jealousy* ARRGH! I gotta get going or my cab is gonna be old news before I even start!!
have you determined how you're going to cover the curved portions of your cabinet?
Well, I'll be relying on interior framing for support (3/4" cabinet back) as well so the wood that follows the curves can be thin. I tested the thinnest sheets of plywood at Home Depot and they seem capable of bending to match the curves without too much force.
So I'll be routing a rabbet along the interior edge of the sides and recessing a thin sheet of finish/cabinet grade plywood along that. I imagine I'll need to clamp, nail, move clamp and repeat to get it to sit flush in the rabbet since there will be quite a bit of resistance. One 8' sheet will not cover the entire back, so I'll hide the seam (probably at the apex of the innermost curve) with a wide vent.
nipsmg-
I appreciate the feedback. While I was really interested in making the tach work in the design, I'm not sure I could incorporate a digital version. The software used to map CPU performance only works with certain analog gauges. Moreover... I've gone back to earlier layouts of the nav panel and really prefer the simplicity of my first layout (the one I posted was ver. 13 or 14 I think. I'll post another mockup for feedback.
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Don't be jealous whatsoever. I only have the sides and my control panel surfaces cut out. I wanted to get those out of the way so I can start perfecting the design of my rotating control panel. I was doing it all on paper and it wasn't answering all of the questions I had, so I figured it was time for me to do more cutting and less pontificating. I still have yet to cut out the other parts of the cabinet, nor do I have a theme, the rotating panels, the wiring, or the computer set up. My wife and 7 month old daughter were out of town the past 5 days, and get back tonight, so this was the first time I've had in months to actually start making some real progress.
I bet you anything you'll be done well before I am. Since I'm a newb to arcade building and woodworking I move at a snails pace.
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I move at a snails pace.
"....Here they come...."
"...they're rounding the corner...."
"...it's neck and neck, folks, No! Wait! .... Ladies and gentlemen this looks like.... a huge upset.... Snail's pulling ahead.... he's.... he's... rounding the inside....."
"AND IT'S THE SNAIL BY A FURLONG!!!"
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Well, I'll be relying on interior framing for support (3/4" cabinet back) as well so the wood that follows the curves can be thin. I tested the thinnest sheets of plywood at Home Depot and they seem capable of bending to match the curves without too much force.
So I'll be routing a rabbet along the interior edge of the sides and recessing a thin sheet of finish/cabinet grade plywood along that. I imagine I'll need to clamp, nail, move clamp and repeat to get it to sit flush in the rabbet since there will be quite a bit of resistance. One 8' sheet will not cover the entire back, so I'll hide the seam (probably at the apex of the innermost curve) with a wide vent.
I was thinking of a thin plywood as well. I love your ideas with the rabbet and the vent as well. You really have this design well thought out. Your design and artwork are things of beauty.
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...it was time for me to do more cutting and less pontificating.
Ewww.. oh, wait.
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OK here is the revised nav panel layout sans tachometer. I really liked Dema's suggestion of replacing it with the cabinets logo, so I'm taking the opportunity to reveal that as well.
Once again, the blue lines are placeholders for CCFL lights and hopefully they'll be further integrated into the design once I have artwork on this. Buttons on the left are for FE navigation, those on the right are for direct emulator selection... thanks again to )P(. The button graphics are a work in progress. The emulator buttons will have graphics added to represent the various consoles, or their controllers.
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OK here is the revised nav panel layout sans tachometer.
I love the look of that layout! I think it does a much better job of maintaining the theme of the cabinet, and the logo itself looks awesome.
What you are doing with your cabinet is turning the process of building your own arcade cabinets on its head. I think it looks amazing and is really starting to get people thinking outside of the box. Amazing work.
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Stylish yet simplistic....
Very Nice!!!
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I like it better than the tach. I like how you have the rocket in.. a.. sprocket? LOL
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Would you just build the damn thing already!!!!
If you don't I'm just going to build it myself this week, and claim that you stole the whole idea from me ;D
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hehe - Guilty - I knew I was asking for it by posting more mockups before cutting any wood.
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Yeah really. Everytime I see a new post here I think "OMG he finally built it!" and then of course it's just another photoshop thingy :-\ (granted, they look cool too)
This is a 3 page thread and there was not one tree hurt in the proces! We want to see dead trees not pixels! ::)
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The sides will be solid hardwood. The large side panels will be New Zealand Rosewood... a hardwood with a natural color similar to aged cherry or koa.
If I am reading this correctly, you will not be using ply or veneer for this...so you'll be jointing and edge joining boards to make up the side panels?! How thick will the sides be?
I will most likely finish this with no stain, probably a water based urethane or hand rubbed oil.
You are gonna LOVE a hand rubbed oil on that, but won't it be easier (not needing re-application periodically, scratches show easier, etc) to go the urethane route? I know very little about New Zealand Rosewood, but I like the rosewood figure and look...I'm betting it'll be so much nicer than anyone can picture!
The smaller darker sides that flank the kick-panel (coin area) will be black walnut. I really wanted to go with ebony, but since it is actually priced by the OUNCE - (forget about board foot) - and generally only available in pieces the size of a toilet paper tube I decided against it. If the walnut doesn't finish dark enough without a stain I will probably mix a custom tinted aneline dye to get it closer to ebony.
Just go with the dye. I drove myself nuts wondering "Is that black enough?!" I wish I had learned about dyes BEFORE that point :-\
I can't tell you how satisfying it is to hear words like "beautiful" and "stunning"
associated with an arcade cabinet.
The color combinations and the wood will surpass words.
For any metal accents you are contemplating, might I suggest brushed aluminum?
And lastly, how are you going about doing the three-sided marquee? I saw you say you're gonna bend the plexi (so you can soothe the backlightaholic in you), but can you get angles that sharp by bending it? I'll borrow you my heatgun if you come over and build me a replica ;)
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If I am reading this correctly, you will not be using ply or veneer for this...so you'll be jointing and edge joining boards to make up the side panels?! How thick will the sides be?
You are correct sir! 3/4" solid stock, edge joined panels about 3'x7' The NZ Rosewood alone will be over $200.
You are gonna LOVE a hand rubbed oil on that, but won't it be easier ... to go the urethane route?
I do like the idea of urethane for durability. The woodworker in me wants to do the hand rubbed oil. Undecided :-\
Just go with the dye. I drove myself nuts wondering "Is that black enough?!"
That's exactly what I've been fearing! So.... VERY valuable info! ;D
For any metal accents you are contemplating, might I suggest brushed aluminum?
I'm very interested in that. My company just had a water jet cut aluminum sign installed and I've got serious project envy over it. I want to cut the rocket-sprocket logo out of aluminum for the side art, but I'm unsure if I could do so smoothly enough to have it look good. I tested some cuts with my crappy jig saw on mild steel and couldn't decide if I'd get good results on a larger scale with (the softer) aluminum.
And lastly, how are you going about doing the three-sided marquee?....but can you get angles that sharp by bending it?
It requires a 3 dimensional jig in the shape of the marquee's face. Bending the plexi at the required angles shouldn't be a problem since I've bent plexi at right angles for aquariums, so this should be easier than that. Of course the bent edges will be smooth/rounded and not sharp.
I'll borrow you my heatgun if you come over and build me a replica ;)
WHAT?!?!? And skip the FIRE!? ;)
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There is also a brushed metal sign vinyl that you can use. It actually looks pretty nice. Just an option the help cost :P
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Wow!
This is one of the best cabinet designs I have seen. I hope you show some construction photos soon, this is one to watch. :D
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i agree. that is a beautifully curvy beast!! it totally looks the part, especially with dragons lair. your front end etc make the whole thing homogenous.
wow!
you realise that a few of us might just copy that shape...
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ok, so are you finished yet?
(",)
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Must.... resist... urge.... to.... post... update.... without.... construction photos....
I just can't keep this to myself any longer. I've tried but I can't.
Thanks to a couple of the most generous BYOACer's I've ever come across (you know who you are), the metal side art is a GO!! ITS A FREAKING GO!!!!!
Materials have been ordered and computer controlled plasma cutting should begin as early as next week... (if this post doesn't jinx it!!) I can't stress enough how unbelievably generous some of the members are here. After testing cuts with my jigsaw, it was clear that the metal artwork would be impossible to create as I had in mind and then BAM!! out of the blue a couple of BYOACers I had done some art for come swooping to my rescue (roll John Williams soundtrack) with a full industrial machine / metal shop riding in toe. I'll let them identify themselves if they want, otherwise I'll protect their privacy since I'm sure they would be immediately overrun with requests. They pulled favors from multiple sources at the shop to get this done... and it makes me feel so warm and fuzzy inside I sometimes think I'll explode in a flaming ball of fuzz.
So check back in a week or two for photos. The art will be cut from 1/4" thick aluminum (I think) and will be based on the rocketsprocket logo seen in the center of the nav panel. The full diameter of the gear will probably be about 20" and I'm toying with the idea of floating it slightly off the surface and backlighting it.
WOO HOO!!! WOO HOO!!! WOO HOO!!! WOO HOO!!! :)
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I think I speak for most of us when I say this is going to be one of, if not 'the' most amazing looking cab's ever! You have obviously put an incredible amount of prep/research/thought into your cab and I'm certain this will be reflected in the finished article. Copious amounts of kudos be bestowed upon thee. Kneel Pixelhugger, rise Sir Pix'alot
Can't wait
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the metal side art is a GO!! ITS A FREAKING GO!!!!!
Hehe, nice. Can't wait to see what it looks like. I'm also designing a dark colored (cherry wood) furniture cab and I bought some silver spray paint to stencil some art on the sides. Not as cool as real metal, but at least now I can see if your idea works ;)
I'm toying with the idea of floating it slightly off the surface and backlighting it.
That sounds really cool too. Would that shine in your face though (when you look along the side of the cab)?
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Jeez, what a friggin tease!
I just noticed your post with photos in the trackball hole thread. I didn't know you had started cutting! For a guy who started with few tools, that CP looks really incredible. I am now considering 1/4" plexi for my CPs.
I also would like to take this opportunity to formally demand construction photos!! :)
Dave
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Regarding the PC tachometer idea, I agree that it would look way too "automotive" for your cab, and not "retro spaceship control."
But what if you put a couple old-style voltmeters in there, maybe something like what's pictured here (but mounted in the panel, of course). Or the square kind used in older hi-fi equipment. Of course, I have no idea how you'd interface them. Just a thought.
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HOLY CRAP! That's exactly what it should have been. Almost Jules Verne! WOW! Hmmm. No idea how that could be interfaced other than maybe to measure voltage inline from the power supply to the CCFL's or something. I love how that looks. Reminds me of all the spare parts kicking around my grandfathers house after he shut down his small 1950's neighborhood amusement park.
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HOLY CRAP!
Wow, I earned a Holy Crap. Wasn't expecting that. :)
It probably wouldn't be too difficult to have one meter wired to your audio system (just like the level meters in a stereo), so it would twitch appropriately with game sound effects. You could even do two meters that way for left and right channels. Or, if you could have one of them controlled via software, there's a number of things it could measure (CPU usage, etc.). I don't know offhand how you'd interface that, but I'm sure it would be a pretty straightforward D to A converter. I'm sure other people on these boards (or elsewhere on the web) could help you out with something like that.
Reminds me of all the spare parts kicking around my grandfathers house after he shut down his small 1950's neighborhood amusement park.
Sounds like a good source! Is his house still around (with said spare parts)?
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HOLY CRAP! That's exactly what it should have been. Almost Jules Verne! WOW! Hmmm. No idea how that could be interfaced other than maybe to measure voltage inline from the power supply to the CCFL's or something. I love how that looks. Reminds me of all the spare parts kicking around my grandfathers house after he shut down his small 1950's neighborhood amusement park.
That thing would make a great replacement for a HardDrive LED.
Or it would be cool to splice it into the CP controls so that it spiked, etc. each time a button was pressed or a joystick was used.....
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At LOOOONG last the first real construction photos are in. As mentioned before, two of the nicest people I've ever crossed paths with online are fully responsible for the first material progress on my cab. "June" from these forums and her husband Chris have made the dimensional aluminum side art (which I previously had only dreamt of) a reality. I can't stress enough how generous these people are, not only donating their time and effort, but arranging for the time and effort of their friends and co-workers to make this happen. The favor chain of good karma runs all the way up to Chris' supervisor for this, but the vast majority of it lies squarely on June and Chris themselves for demonstrating to my entire family how good faith and generosity are alive and well in the world. It is humbling to me to see how perfect strangers can meet in these forums and affect lives thousands of miles away. Not meaning to wax too corny but for me the logo itself has already become more a symbol of generosity and self-less good will than a symbol of the cabinet it will be mounted on. I will never forget the kindness shown to me in its creation and will be reminded of it every time I look at my cabinet or tell someone the story of the rocket-sprocket logo.
OK so here are the pics... :D :D The material is 1/4" thick aluminum. It will be mounted on the sides of the cabinet using bolts welded to the back. The artwork will float between 1/8" - 1/2" off the surface to allow for blue CCFL lights to illuminate it from behind (creating a kind of halo effect around the rocket). A nod to Witchboard for coining the ROCKETSPROCKET term which has seen endless use in my communications with June and family. ;)
June's AMAZING jukebox project can be seen here (http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=10;action=display;threadid=20824)
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Here is a detail of the cutting process.
:o
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And the final logo, being held by one of Chris' co-workers - another nice guy I have never met. One of these goes on each side. From here it will get cleaned, polished, and then be shipped off to be adored for generations!
:)
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This gives a pretty good idea of the super-hefty mega thickness of the aluminum.
;)
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....and like every one else I'm gonna have to throw in the standard "gratuitous super cool plasma burst canon close up shot." ::)
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Nice! I have stuff plasma cut for jobs all the time (I work in a sign shop) but I've never seen the actual process. We CNC stuff ourselves, but plasma/laser cutting gives a much smoother, more detailed end result.
Congrats!
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Most.Anticipated.Cabinet.Ever
Really can't wait to see this bad boy. You really do things with flair PH, first construction pics involve a flippin' PLASMA CUTTER!?
Awesome.
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Thanks for the pictures. Man, this is going to be so unbelievably awesome.
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Wow, very cool! :o
Thanks for posting the in-process pics. Forget a cabinet, I want a plasma cutter! ;D
What kind of contracts or work does Chris' company do? Maybe some of us could throw some business their way. I always prefer to support companies that demonstrate this kind of generosity and openness.
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What kind of contracts or work does Chris' company do? Maybe some of us could throw some business their way. I always prefer to support companies that demonstrate this kind of generosity and openness.
Thanks for the suggestion, Martoon. That's nice of you! Unfortunately, though, Chris
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What kind of contracts or work does Chris' company do? Maybe some of us could throw some business their way. I always prefer to support companies that demonstrate this kind of generosity and openness.
Thanks for the suggestion, Martoon. That's nice of you! Unfortunately, though, Chris
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I stopped mopping up my own drool long enough to check with the other 4 judges and we agree: Pixelhugger wins the Mamey for most aggravatingly slow progress on a cab, EVER. 8)
http://www.mameworld.net/massive/Awards/Misc/misc.html
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and then to think that basically the only progress that we witnessed was made by others than PixelHugger himself ::) tsk tsk tsk
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Zakk - WHOO HOO!
Wow this is so unexpected. Um, lets see, (gush gush) I'd like to thank the academy and everyone involved.... ::)
Actually, as patrick points out the credit goes to June and family for making more progress on my project than I have! Which is of course ironic.
For the record, and in my defense, the last few months have seen:
The birth of my son (who joins my two year old daughter in rightfully drawing attention and time away from my BYOAC projects)
The demolition of 1/3 of our house for a massive remodel
Two simultaneous art projects for other BYOACers
and a ruthlesssly ramped up work schedule keeping me at work until late at night.
I know.... excuses, excuses.....
But, hopefully the nav panel and marquee jig construction will begin shortly, but it is hard to carve out time! To those who doubt the cab will see the light of day, keep at it, cause it adds to the excitement and will make victory all the sweeter. Mwahahahaha! ;)
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Well I know I always work harder when someone tells me it can't be done or I'll never finish it..... so with that in mind....
HAHAHA Pixelhugger, you'll never finish that machine. Plus, it's not even that great to begin with... I bet you can't even get a game to ever run on it. Plus... well.....
um....
uh...
ok, I just want more pictures :) Keep up the good work.
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good work PHEH! It sucks, and anyways, he can't give us more pictures because he's not gonna finish it anyways AAAAND he doesn't care if he ever finishes it either ;)
Go ahead and just TRY to fight the reverse psychology! I DARE ya!
Nice work, and JERK, (in the nicest sense of the word) what's with droppin' the plasma cutter on your hot new project?!?! Everyone else...circ saw, jig saw, pencil drawing....please PLEASE I hope to God this works out. You? Plasma...theme...phat design...sweet artwork....Jerk ;) :-*
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And the final logo...
Hey, look, it's next year's token design! ;D
You've seriously raised the bar on project quality. Damn you. :)
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I'm toying with the idea of floating it slightly off the surface and backlighting it.
That sounds really cool too. Would that shine in your face though (when you look along the side of the cab)?
What about routing out a 1/4" deep circle an inch larger than the sideart and floating/backlighting the art in that?
--Chris
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What about routing out a 1/4" deep circle an inch larger than the sideart and floating/backlighting the art in that?
I like that idea. I really like that idea. Maybe roundover the edges of the hole a bit as well. It would really integrate the logo into the cabinet sides and keep it from looking tacked on. Plus it would hide the mounting bolts (as well as the bright light Patrick pointed out) when seen directly from the side. OK sold. That's happening. Any thoughts on the approach as attached in profile below?
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Are you using real wood? If your using veneered material (I don't know if that's correct english, but I mean something like plywood or MDF with thin a layer of "real" wood on it) then the routed hole will look weird.
But I thought you were planning to sink the light already so that problem must have occured to you as well. If you sink the whole logo you are making the hole a lot bigger though (and the edges might show now)
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Seems like it should work. Got any scrap lumber lying around to test it on? IIRC, you are spending a fair amount of $ on real wood for this cabinet and it would be a shame for you to mount that and decide it looks like sh!t (which I seriously doubt). But practice on some scrap plywood or similar (and give up a preview picture of how it will really look)!
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Patrick - yeah real wood. Originally New Zealand Rosewood but more likely cherry...unless there are any Hawaiians here sitting on a $3000 stockpile of 100 bd ft of Koa in 8' lengths that they want to sell for ten cents on the dollar. Oh yeah, and ship stateside for free. ;) So like I said.... cherry.
Gadget, yeah I'll definitely have to test it on scrap... primarily because I've never used a circle cutting guide with a router before.
The more I think about the logo...(which is constantly)...the more I like the idea of recessing it a bit into the side... maybe by an 1/8" or so... just so it peeks out of the recession maybe half way when seen in profile. I love the idea of making the hole large enough so the full thickness of the logo can be seen. Thanks again Chris.
On a related note, it looks like the first real construction will begin next week since my wife will be busy with my inlaws and I'll have about 9 days of project time (to make what will probably amount to an afternoon's worth of progress after considering my work schedule. :-\ ) I've decided to use the time to build the marquee jig, since going forward with the nav panel right now means finding and buying the Rosewood for the whole project (so it matches) which I have neither the time nor money for at the moment. The jig will not be a part of the cabinet itself, but a 3 dimensional bending guide to get proper (and symetrical) angles on the 3 sides of the marquee. See attached
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Real wood is good. I wasn't able to find any cherry in 3/4" though. Only thicker sizes were solid wood the rest was veneer covered plywood (in some crappy stores it's even laminated particle board). They (salespersons at several wood warehouses) claimed it would be too thin to make big sheets out of the little planks. If I really wanted it they could slim down a 1" board for me though.
Also curious, how are you going to heat the Lexan (evenly and without bubbling)?
I tried bending Lexan myself (my Galaga style control panel was supposed to have bent lexan to cover up the artwork initially), but I failed miserably. Luckily for me good laminated CPO prints are available now so I don't need a lexan cover anymore. I know I helped make fun of your slow progress (or rather help spur you on to show some progress ;) ) , but I have to admit I been "planning" for a year and a now half too ... :-[
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I cant imagine 3/4" solid cherry would not be strong enough. It's a very common choice for cabinetry. Not sure why it was hard to find solid cherry stock. Are you in the US? It should be fairly common here. At least in CA.
I have been tempted to make the beast out of thicker (8/4) stock. Dunno if I dare. My dad built a cradle for my daughter and glued up two 3/4" panels to make the legs extra beefy. I was looking at that a week or so ago wondering how it would look on an arcade cab. But holy cow would the thing ever weigh a TON.
Regarding the lexan... I used a propane torch. The kind you get for $8 at the hardware store. You have to go slowly and evenly moving in a smooth back and forth pattern, keeping the flame a decent distance from the plastic. I built two aquariums this way with 3 bends each.... and 0 bubbles. Its a bit like baking cookies. Low (relatively speaking) heat for a long time gives a completely different result than high heat for a short time.
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Gadget, yeah I'll definitely have to test it on scrap... primarily because I've never used a circle cutting guide with a router before.
a trammel, I think they call it. Pretty easy to use, I'm SOO confident you won't find it to be a problem at all
The more I think about the logo...(which is constantly)...the more I like the idea of recessing it a bit into the side... maybe by an 1/8" or so... just so it peeks out of the recession maybe half way when seen in profile. I love the idea of making the hole large enough so the full thickness of the logo can be seen. Thanks again Chris.
As I'm sitting here reading this, I'm envisioning you cutting the hole the size of your logo. INSIDE the cab, fashion a shallow (mebbe 1/2" - 3/4" deep) BOX inside the cab - something to hold the logo, and an area to hold the light, thereby hiding the light from direct glaring brightness while still emitting that "eery glow" from underneath and around the edges. Mebbe even use a chamfer bit to allow the light to spill out a bit more, if you wish.
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and? what news? you finished yet ;D
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Yeah, man! What's the skinny?
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Well most of the progress remains in the prep stages, very exciting to me but admittedly of little interest to anyone else. :-\
Here's a summary-
Rocketsprocket logos are complete... I'll post more pics soon. I can't thank June & family enough!!!!!
Marquee jig plans are complete and materials purchased.
I went to start cutting the jig only to find that the construction we're doing on our house blocked access to my table saw. ARGH. The good side to that however is that I've managed to convince my wife that the garage we're adding (we had none before) should not be used to park cars, but rather should be a dedicated workshop for projects like this. The garage has become critical to this project since I was unable to obtain a space in this years woodworking lab at the local high school (for the second year in a row) *grumble grumble* Without a space to work at home I was relying on the lab for nearly 100% of my project time.
Continued BYOAC art projects have provided nearly all the (non-wood related) hardware requirements for the cab (except the monitor). Recent acquisitions include 2 t-stick plus ball top joysticks, a Happs dual coin door, Happs monitor bezel, a 128MB AVGA card, half a dozen massive round backlit buttons, a half dozen large round backlit buttons, an AMD Athlon 2100, mobo, 512MB RAM, HD, PS, Firewire and USB ports (also to be added to the nav panel). American Demon has become my technology godfather and orcale. You rock! So does Santoro. So do June and Chris.
Artwork for the backlit buttons has been finished.
Also of little interest to those outside the small group of people semi-directly involved in the cab (but worth noting anyway) is that I've arranged for Mission Control baseball hats to be embroidered with the rocketsprocket logo. These are going out to the small group of people personally involved in the project one way or another. So how's that for taking my project waaaaay too seriously! They'll be dark blue with a silver logo.
And for my usual disclaimer about having no time....
Toddler approaching potty training, baby approaching weaning.
Remodel in full swing. Living on top of each other, the kids, two big dogs and the cats.
Busily engaged in:
The new Mame token design.
Krawdad's Goldmine artwork
and my largest artwork commitment to date for a yet to be announced cabinet (I'm working on it Nate!!!)
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Also of little interest to those outside the small group of people semi-directly involved in the cab (but worth noting anyway) is that I've arranged for Mission Control baseball hats to be embroidered with the rocketsprocket logo. These are going out to the small group of people personally involved in the project one way or another. So how's that for taking my project waaaaay too seriously! They'll be dark blue with a silver logo.
So what with the tips I contributed.....just drop me a PM when you're ready to send mine so I can give you my address ;)
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hehe ;D
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You could probably sell those hats... that logo is cool...
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Thanks for posting those plasma cutting pics Pixel, very cool!
The demolition of 1/3 of our house for a massive remodel
Boy can I relate to this! In my case it's more like 3/4 of the house though. Man am I ready to get the house back together so I can start working on my toys again!
-S
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I'm sure the *ahem* fellow who never doubted *ahem* that you would finish the project *ahem* could use a hat... ;D
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I'm sure the *ahem* fellow who never doubted *ahem* that you would finish the project *ahem* could use a hat... ;D
Clearly Zakk is sucking up to you in order to steal my hat away, but I'm not worried. Pixel, you're smart enough to see right through his ruse! ;)
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Thanks to June and family the spectacular rocketsprocket side art logos arrived at work friday. Needless to say I got very little done at my job. For the first time I'm able to actually hold a piece of the cabinet as it will appear when finished. Maybe no big deal to anyone else, but it's one of the most exciting things that will happen for me during the entire project! :)
Seeing these in pictures doesn't even come close to providing a sense for what they are really like. Each is about the size of a car tire. The metal is 1/4" thick, which gives them an incredibly solid industrial feel. To put that in perspective I've provided the following head to head reviews ::)
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Rocketspocket vs. blue Post-It note
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Rocketsprocket vs. Compact Disc
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Rocketsprocket vs. #2 Pencil
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What exactly are those parts for anyways?!
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And an overall view.
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What exactly are those parts for anyways?!
Oooops, sorry. Edited above to clarify :) They're for the side art. They'll be slightly recessed into circular cutouts on the sides and backlit with blue ccfl fan lights (which will also provide some ventilation for the cab. There is a block art diagram of how they'll be mounted earlier in this thread somewhere.
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heres another twist on the recessed idea. the sprocket is flush mounted onto the cabinet side and the circular cutout is smaller than the total sprocket width. the cutout edge would be hidden. inside the recess are small glow in the dark stars and planets highlighted by the blue fan lights. im having some fun with photoshop today and it was fun to mess around with your cool sprocket. :)
(http://arcadegames.home.mindspring.com/mcontrol.jpg)
* side note...
why is this project announcement thread a year old, 5 pages long, and yet there isnt any actual cabinet construction? get to work already, lets see some progress!
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Looking amazing,you and Krawdaddy make me want to do so much more with my project.What is the status of your cabinet at the moment?
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Well I dunno his status, but I know that he at least has his side art almost done. Even a computer.... now needs a monitor..... and then to construct. Maybe someone should offer to do artwork for him. ;)
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Yeah, we can ask Pixelhugger to do it! ;D
What??? Oh, this is his... ha ha... :-\
Ummm... never mind! :-X
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Emulaxian
While it currently doesn't support the assignment a keystroke to a specific gamelist, Peter - the FE's developer - has agreed to provide me with an exe that allows the assignment since he says it is an easy modification to make. WOO HOO! Of course it would be up to the user to create the list that the button would switch to. So in my case, I would create separate game lists for each console's ROMs and then assign each list to a keystroke.
Has Peter added this to Emulaxian? As I would like to add this feature to my cab!!
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Yes. ;D )P( is amazing. Three cheers for Peter and the planet's best FE! OK so I'm biased.
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you mention a website coming up soon or possibly already up that documents your project with graphics, pictures, etc. but after searching your posts again, i can't find an address. secondly, since you changed your color the first time, i've been wondering, how good would it look in a red? would it stand out too much? i was kinda thinking about the stained sides...
so yeah, i'd love to see a pic of the red if you start wondering yourself, and i'd really love to see a site start up even though you don't have much actual construction to document. keep up the good work.
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Well the website isn't up yet. I'm not going to launch it until I have actual construction pics to include ;). It looks like Flash will allow me to import the AI files I used for the FE skin so development should be a breeze from a design standpoint. Now to learn Flash. ::) When the site does go up, I'd like to have an online launch celebration with giveaways. Maybe some tokens. Maybe rocketsprocket hats. Dunno. If anyone has any good ideas for contests or giveaways or online events of any kind let me know! :P
As far as red goes... I've gone toooooo far down the blue road to turn back... too many skin files, the 2 marquees, the nav panel, and the CP. It would mark the 3rd or 4th overhaul of the graphics. :-\ So, I think I've just gotta move forward on the construction at this point. ;)
The workshop is on schedule to be fully operational by Christmas so hopefully things will ramp up shortly. I trying to get the marquee done before then.
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Man is this going to be a beautiful cab....unless you seriously screw it up. In that case I'm stealing your rocket sprockets and using them to decorate my room ;)
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UPDATE!!!!!!!!!!
or at least some pics to calm the hunger...
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Hehe!
Well the best I can do at this point is to note that the Mission Control Primary Construction Facility (hereafter "Toyworks") where the cab will be built is about 2 weeks from completion. WOO HOO!! I built a CP as a Christmas gift in the new workshop last weekend and was SHOCKED at how fast the work goes when it's not being done on a picnic table tottering on the lawn.
Only other update is that I've gotten myself a copy of Ashlar-Vellum's Graphite to use as the CAD program for drafting the actual construction plans. The marquee construction (and the required jig) does not rely on the plans so while I'm redrafting the cab in Graphite I'll be working on the 3 sided marquee and it's plastic-bending jig thingy.
More soon.
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Does this count as a photo update? ::) Just another cheap comp but you can see some of whats been setting me back.
Edit: Additional sarcasm
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So she finally kicked you out of the house eh? Well, at least you'll have your cab to keep you company. ;D
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I noticed dirk in the shed, is that another cab you have?
"...what are the dimentions of your shed, what kind of wood are you using, where did you get the wood, how much did it cost...blah blah blah..."
Oh Wait, that should of been asked on BYOAS (Build Your Own Arcade Shed) ;D just kidding, I don't need to know...
Good luck finishing your other project
BobbyG66
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I noticed dirk in the shed, is that another cab you have?
That's a computer mock up of Mission Control (the cab from this thread).... the project everyone has heard about, but no one has ever seen ;)
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Edit: Additional sarcasm
I have to say that I think that's the first time I've ever seen that in a message... ;D
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That's a computer mock up of Mission Control (the cab from this thread).... the project everyone has heard about, but no one has ever seen ;)
With the right "medication" I can see it
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well, you spoke of work on your project starting around christmas, maybe as a christmas present to all your project followers, maybe that website could materialize, and you can show us the work you've completed till now on the site...i mean, you've got to have done something since your last "update"...you could at least show us in detail what your "going" to make, other than that mock-up picture. i guess i just need something on the project to look over...the pictures you've given us so far can only keep us happy for so long...we need more. well, happy holidays other than your great project.
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Yes construction will begin as soon as the Christmas holiday is over! And I do appreciate the continued interest. Last night was the first night I could really work in my new workshop, as the electrical was just finished and lighting installed. Finishing this was the single most important thing to allow my cab to go forward.
As far as pics showing actual cab pieces... the best I can do is to show the collection of parts I've bought and some pine and particle board for the marquee plastic bending jig. Maybe I'll continue the teasing with a picture of those tonight. Or will that get me flamed to a crisp?
I realize many people are beginning to feel I'm all talk and no construction. I did however just finish a detailed control panel for friend's autistic son as a Christmas present. (Yet another project pushing my own cab schedule back). The project thread is here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,29210.0.html) .... it's pretty much the opposite of this one, which is to say: Short. No Photoshop comps. Just construction pics and little intro.
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Last night was the first night I could really work in my new workshop
ahem.....(http://www.iamviet.com/forum/images/smilies/smilie_nono.gif)
TOYWORKS
You may wish to carelessly throw about terms like "workshop", "construction", and "cabinet".
We here at BYOAC hold to a higher standard (for you, anyway ;) ).
Your creation of the masterpiece known as Mission Control will be finalized in a sacred hall spoken of in reverent tones - we've heard of this place, the one Santa tried to model his "workshop" after. The Toyworks is no ordinary place. We here hold to the dream that one day, your masterpiece will be considered "Mission POSSIBLE". If not for you, hope for our civilization will slowly fade away, left to die the death of countless "cabinet project" rotting away in basements and sheds throughout the country.
We are counting on YOU, Obi Wan. Our dreams lie in your hands :'(
;)
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Hi folks, I'm new to the forums!
I just have to compliment Pixelhugger on this extraordinary piece of work!
People show off many great projects in these forums, but this... whoa baby, this one tops it all!
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Hi folks, I'm new to the forums!
I just have to compliment Pixelhugger on this extraordinary piece of work!
People show off many great projects in these forums, but this... whoa baby, this one tops it all!
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If he only put half the work into the real thing, it would simply rock!
You can tell by the pictures that this is a serious project.
I don't think he's completely lost when it comes to wood work either...
I mean, the man is building a house for christ sake!
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I just read through 5 pages of this thread hoping to see somewhere the actual construction of the cab.....I was wrong.....
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Boy, THAT'LL sure teach yo to read a thread or two, hey? ::)
Pixel, as much as we all give you shite, you know we wouldn't do it if we didn't respect your work so much. It's our way of "motivating" you, and a way to live vicariously through you. It's too bad your thread will be a DEmotivator for the blind man to read other threads to find stuff out, but...meh...can't win 'em all.
Now that Christmas is over, get to it, man. We're counting on you, as you seem to be one of the few who realize just HOW important pictures are - even if it's just piddly stuff.
Did I say make wit da pictures? We won't say anudda woid about dis heah if you make wit da goods!
Pixel, Pixel, he's our man, if he can't do it bug him till he can!
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so by christmas holiday, do you mean tillthe day after christmas, or do you mean the third of january? because i'd love to see some work on this project. actually, if you'd post your plans, i'll just start working on it myself...
but really, we do need something more to calm the cravings...
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Well, I meant after New Year's. So technically the 3rd but more likely the 8th or following weekend. Construction will begin with the marquee.
And yes.... there will be more photos than anyone will care to wade through! The best of which I'll use for the coffee table book (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,28765.msg240477.html#msg240477) :P
Peek - As much as I'd like to take credit for the construction myself, we have a contractor on that. Nonetheless it has caused my "honey-do list" to hemorrhage and has resulted in very chaotic weekends. The upside is that the workshop is complete and appropriately enough the first project I completed in it was a control panel. Just not for me. See thread
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actually, now that your seriously talking about doing your cabinet, i am interested in seeing detailed plans for the woodworking section of your project. your pictures are nice, but as an engineer and a woodworker, i'm interested in how your planing to put all the pieces together...also, it's really hard to make out the peices on your little picture.
and if you did, we could help correct the mistakes that will probably come up before you make them.
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if you continue to refer to the building you are assembling as a "workshop", I will be forced to thrash you about the head and shoulders with an ugly stick and...er....nevermind, someone beat me to THAT.....reassess.....I shall be forced to beat you severely with a trout, probably in the facial area, but wherever the mood strikes me. You simply CANNOT refer to your "workshop" in such callous terms after aptly naming it, and raising expectations that you will be "working" *shudder* in said area.
TOYWORKSTM!
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i am interested in seeing detailed plans for the woodworking section of your project.
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NOW you're talkin'! 'Bout time you start representin' boooooeeeeeeyyyyyyyyy!
(http://img126.exs.cx/img126/997/36_1_11.gif)
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you done yet? there's been fighter planes go from drawing board to take off faster than this! ;D
i expect pictures of the first cuts by next week :police:
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Anyway... I don't want to post the plans until I finish construction since I'm paranoid someone else will finish my cab before I do. However I do have a question for Flinkly and any other engineers/highly intuitive woodworkers.
The cabinet sides are angled so the base is about 2.75" narrower than the top. You can see this in the lower left "front" view in the image below. This helps give the cabinet it's looming dimension and is very important to me. I am concerned however that with the weight of the monitor just above CP level, that the base may act like a fulcrum and that the cabinet may get tippy with the leverage exerted during gameplay. Anyone think this should be a concern? Maybe the overall weight will be great enough that the leverage is negligible. I know that an accurate answer
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Thanks Bigle... that's exactly the sort of help I was hoping for.
The cabinet will sit flat on the ground with casters raised slightly off the ground and protuding slightly from the back, so when tilted back at an angle they reach the ground. May not be easy to move it long distances this way, but it'll at least make it repositionable.
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like you said, exact answers to that sort of engineering problem would require some work and an idea of the weight distribution of the cabinet, but like it was stated before, intuitively, the slight change in width of the cabinet from top to bottom shouldn't cause it to be "top heavy" to a noticable degree.
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Another thing to consider would be that the weight of the monitor will be acting as a wedge now rather than just a vertical load in pure shear. This means the upper connections will need to be reinforced for horizontal pull out and not just for vertical shearing action. The effect is likley negligable though given the slight angle. From an aesthetics point of view having it narrow from top down is counter to what most people see as "natural" i.e. large objects get smaller as they go up--but that could be the effect you are looking for.
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PH,
If you mount the casters like this, the amount of tilt required to move the cab is much less.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=11108.0;id=1103)
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I put these on the cab I MAME'd. Works great. $5.70 ea @ Happ Controls (http://happcontrols.com/) (p# 33-1198-00).
(http://www.happcontrols.com/images/30/33119800.gif)
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menace, your just trying to make the rest of us engineers look bad, aren't you...
but back to the point at hand, all things considered, if you are going to make this cabinet well, that is, as long as you don't cheat due to costs and laziness during construction, you should be fine. but do make it soon...i can't stand it anymore.
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...as long as you don't cheat due to costs and laziness during construction, you should be fine.
You have been following the thread, haven't you? ;)
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Thanks for all the input. I like those caster ideas. Especially the placement that minimizes the tilt required to move it.
Just another small update on the plans. Spent a couple of hours today drafting the marquee box and bezel. I needed a scale model of the happs bezel in order to align the rest of the interior parts.. monitor frame, minimarquee and nav panel. Luckily Lightwave exports a perfect DXF so all I had to do was nudge it around. The learning curve on the CAD program is steeper than I'm used to but it sure is gratifying to use. With the marquee dimensions in place I can now draft accurate plans for the jig. And throw away the "more than likely unreliable" version I did in Illustrator.
After that it's CONSTRUCTION TIME AT LAST, at least as far as the marquee box goes. My brother is making a surprize visit this weekend so cutting will have to wait until next week at best.
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Doesn't look like much, but this is the final marquee jig plan. Basically it is a form upon which to bend two sheets of .25" plexi. The printed marquee will be sandwiched between them forming the 3 sided marquee seen in the previous renderings. The jig itself is not a part of the cabinet.
In comparing these dimensions against what I had drafted in Illustrator it turns out that my jig plans would have been between 1" and 2" off. Thats pretty significant since the marquee face sits a mere .25" back from the top and bottom of the marquee box. Adding the compound angles to that, I think I would have had a marquee shaped and sized to be completely unusable. To me, the great thing about CAD is that I can take this 3D plan and set it into the full scale model to see exactly how and where things will align.
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Glad to hear your starting,the marquee jig is impressive.Instead of casters your cabinet really is deserving of a jet pack.... ;)
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Hehe. Tough choice.
;)
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...but I'm gonna stick with these. Because I don't know if I can find the right kind of nozzles in blue.
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Damn those are some sexy blue casters ,they fit my color scheme but unfortunately my caster choice has already been made.Not sure I ever referred to casters as sexy before,maybe I am loosing it.Should have known you would have a jet pack ready for this suggestion.
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Oh aye, I'm liking those castors, too - brilliant! That's one thing I now wish I'd incorporated into my cab...ah well there's always next time ;D
Craig
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...but I'm gonna stick with these. Because I don't know if I can find the right kind of nozzles in blue.
Those casters look a little light... what kind of weight are they rated for?
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The 4" (shown) are rated to 200lbs. each. The 5" are rated for 250lbs each.
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Promised myself I wouldn't do it. Swore up and down to myself I wouldn't do it. But I just caved. Here is one more teaser pic before actual construction pics. Apologies to those who've lost all patience with these. I just couldn't resist.
This is the first image I've posted from the final cab model. It's the only 3D rendering so far to show the actual navigation panel as it will look when completed. The illuminated pushbuttons are modeled on Happs' dimensions. I've managed to accumulate everything shown here with the exception of the WG 9200.
Come worship at the altar of cool...
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Two. Make that 2 more teaser pics before actual construction pics. This is the first pic to show how the sides angle outward toward the top of the cabinet to incease its looming-nosity
The Mission Control door poster....
::)
Edit: Blast it! Thread image auto scales down. Save to HD to see more detail.
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PH feel free to tease me (us) anytime....Really neat concept work,I think you can pull it off but this sucker is going to take some time.I figure you will be done and playing it by the summer.I want to see building action shots next time.
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It's so beautiful.... :'(
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Again.. nice work!
Just wondering if you can do an overhead shot of the panel? As I would like to look at what admin buttons your have.
Also, are you going to make the "Emulator Graphics Buttons" available?
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I'm using an iPac so most admin functions can be accessed from the joystick and player start button(s)... so that covers tab, enter, volume, esc, and pause. I may dedicate the lower left button by the joystick as a mouse button... and I may add a dedicated enter button as well. I will have a flip down keyboard beneath the CP (the front panel seen in the "altar" pic) so that'll be available as well.
Regarding the emulator selection buttons.. yeah those, along with the rest of the artwork including FE skins (and eventually a custom Mission Control 3D arcade) will be freely available. I'm thinking of simply putting every related file from art to plans to video tutorials (for unusual things like the plastic bending) on a CDR or DVDR that can be ordered for the cost of the stock and shipping on the website.
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i almost forgot about that, the website...i guess it's been soooooo long since anyone believed this would ever be completed...just teasin.
but back to my question, when will the site be available for lookin at?
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Yowzer - Looking MINT!
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Hey Pixel,
Enough renderings!!! :)
I thought you had a CP that was somewhat finished based on this http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,22349.msg181835.html#msg181835 ?
How about some real photos of the CP?
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Yeah thats my CP
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but back to my question, when will the site be available for lookin at?
As soon as I have construction photos to post. Here's a sneak peek of the layout. This is from the actual vector files for Flash. So I guess they are the web equivalent of construction photos and not technnically renders or teasers per se ;)
This is the animated splash screen. It will be accompanied by a Nasa soundbite from the Apollo missions that says "....Houston, the beauty of this place is incredible." hehe. I shouldn't tip my cards, but then as Flinkly indirectly points out... by the time all this is in place many people following this thread will have long forgotten anyway.
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And this is the home page. The smaller titles are rollovers so they wouldn't normally be visible.
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Oh... and as far as construction photos go... does engraving the Rocketsprocket logo into my workshop/garage floor count? ::)
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I figure you will be done and playing it by the summer.I want to see building action shots next time.
I'm really hoping for a finish by the first part of May, but that would assume a faster pace than what I think is possible given the construction plan. So you are probably right. Actually considering the pace things have been moving at, I hope you are.
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Okay, I think I see the problem...you need to prioritize your efforts.
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Oh... and as far as construction photos go... does engraving the Rocketsprocket logo into my workshop/garage floor count? ::)
I'm gonna have to speak for everyone here and say yes, it does count.
IF YOU'D SHOW US PICTURES!
(http://www.susans-spot.com/worthless.gif)
;) ;D ;) ;D
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Dammit Pix, STOP HUGGING PIXELS AND START INHALING SAWDUST!!
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Hehe
Well I've already got the coin door from Happs. It's black and coincidentally enough, yes, I did have them swap out the reject buttons for blue which look fantastic. Thanks to Hulkster's project for that idea initially, and to spidermonkey for the confirmation. ;) It also has their "universal" mechs for tokens and quarters.
It's been sitting in it's box in my closet waiting for construction. The 27" bezel would cause too much marital discord if I were to store it inside, so it is safely stowed in... :-\.... the truck of my car.
Well I guess I have officially hit the wall when it comes to teaser tolerances. I can't say I'm surprised.
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Yak Yak Yak... you're all talk ;)
At this rate, why not just buy a projector and have a render of it lit on the wall?
Shesh!
I can't say anything though. I've had a complete set of cabinet parts (including monitor) sitting in my basement for 6 months with no movement. ;)
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Uh oh. 3 out of 4 of the last responses have involved styled type. That can't be a good sign. :-[
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Besides styled type they were also yelling at you in CAPITALS.You have to respect them for how bad they want to see progress on "your" mame cabinet.Just imagine how upset they get about there own project.
p.s. (wink wink sarcasm) WHERE IS MY DAMN ACTION JACKSON CONSTRUCTION PORN SHOTS!!!!!
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Heh heh heh! MAME porn! :o :angel:
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Okay enough excuses. Although I will be unapologetic in engraving the rocket on the floor ;)
Can somebody repost the link to the rocket that's engraved on the floor.
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Guess I'm going a bit OT, but to clarify.... engraving is to occur next week, depending on the concrete polisher's schedule. I can't engrave until the floor is finished with 400 grit plates. Then I can carve the logo in with a grinder. Afterwards it's staining and more polishing until 3000 grit. Final floor will shine like glass. Woo ha!
I was going to do vinvl composition tiles for the workshop floor... and inlay a space invader pattern in the center. But I had a friend over who owns a concrete polishing/finishing business and he offered to polish and color the floor for the cost of materials if I'd let him show it to prospective clients. No brainer. I'm going with the polishing.
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Does the term "overkill" mean anything to you? :)
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What is this, how do you say, o-v-e-r-k-i-l-l you speak of?
;)
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:D
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quarterback - this is the rocket in question. Not sure if you wanted to see the design or the final engraving (which is yet to be done). It's getting a bit overwhelming to navigate the 7 pages of this *PREVIEW* thread, so maybe this'll be new to some people jumping to the end.
This is the logo for my "Toyworks" projects. Ultimately that should include a lot of different
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Well maybe a bit OT for my own thread... but here are "construction photos" of the logo engraving on my workshop floor.
Felt I should post these in the hope that I can show that I do make progress on these overly ambitious crazy projects I talk about... even though it takes time. Before I get flamed for another distraction from construction, I have to disclaim this by saying this procedure was part of my house remodel so the wife let me use up all our weekend time doing it.
Shown below...
Me getting schooled by my cement-finishing contractor genius friend.
Me grinding the logo like a madman.
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and a shot of what the logo looks like half done...
followed by a close up of the channel the grinder carves.
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Next step is to finish polishing the floor. Currently it's at 40 grit. It'll end up at 3000 grit, giving it a glass like glossy shine with no coating or chemical finish. Along the way we'll be staining the area outside the gear a deep blue, and coloring the area between the gear and rocket a coordinating color. The logo itself will stay natural. With all the aggregate visible, it will hopefully look like the logo is floating in deep space. My cement finishing contractor genius friend, Louie, thinks it'll look like a granite inlay in a museum foyer... I'm keeping my fingers crossed *shudders with joy*
Another huge thank you to June and family for making the original rocketsprocket, which has since become a permanent fixture in my imagination.
Back on topic - I (re)bought materials for the marquee jig and should hopefully post pics of it's construction any day now.... (I know, I know.) :P
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Oh, yeah.. and the channel gets grouted and polished flat as well.
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wait a minute.... THAT'S not an arcade cabinet. you can't fool us!
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NO no no no. it is one. see thats the side art for his "apartment sized arcade cabinet". right? ;D
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NO no no no.
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Oh, he is carving his cabinet out of a concrete block, that explains why it is taking so long...
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Dude, first of all, you have the BEST sense of humor about yourself to take all the shite we (and WILL continue to) dish out about your project.
Second, even I feel happy for you about this! That is WICKED cool!
Isn't it nice to have friends wit' skillz? 8)
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WTH?
Why is this on the floor? What fills inside the grooves of the logo? Blood?
Where are the black candles and apocalypse cloaks?
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Ya know... I sure hope this cab lives up to the hype. :angel:
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Build your own R2D2. That's hillarious.
Uncle Owen, this R2 unit has a bad motivator.
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:o jeebus arent you supposed to be wearing goggles ??
Anyhow,looks very neat so far !
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:o jeebus arent you supposed to be wearing goggles ??
Absolutely. I had misplaced them 15 min before and couldn't find them anywhere. So I finished up flinching, wincing and blinking like a kid expecting a balloon to pop as I waited to have an eye put out...
Actually with the dust mask the glasses fogged up so badly I could have cut my leg off for all I could see, so I suppose it's just as well, but yeah.... I wouldn't recommend ginding without protection. ::)
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man....we should really have a photo album for snapshots of members...
first i see minwah...man what a suprise. a hippie of all things.
now i see that this artistic foe of whom i respect looks...normal. i guess you are working, so i shouldn't expect you to be all dressed up, but as an artistic genious, i expected...something else i guess.
but back to the subject, nice work. love to see some finished shots of that, or any of your projects for that matter.
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Ha :-)
Reminds me of this old thread
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,9346.0.html
I think I will bump it up just to see what some of the newcomers look like!
Dave
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HAH! You were expecting maybe the sensitive brooding artistic bohemian in mid existential breakdown? Nah, thats just my normal person outfit I use
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Pixel, that workshop is gonna kick ass.
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Since I built a custom office for pc gaming I can kind of respect someone who puts the logo of there mame cabinet on the floor of there workshop.Nice work pixel,now I need a logo for my office....
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Thanks for the feedback! Here's a pic of what it should look like when finished.
Colors subject to change....
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Hi,
First time I've looked at this thread and I fully echo the sentiments expressed so far about the design.
One idea that did strike me is the lighting effect behind the rocketsprocket(tm) logos. I know you're intending having a single smooth light source but I was wondering if you had maybe considered getting a sort of slow strobe effect going on there.
I suppose the image I'm trying to portray is that of the light effect coming through a slow moving ventilaton shaft fan (as can be seen in 101 different sci-fi films and tv shows), or the shimmering of sunlight as seen from under the sea. A kind of actinic light effect.
And hey, just to show that BYOAC improves your knowledge I just found out that a) I spelt actinic correctly first time :P and b) these sort of lights are available for use in aquariums (although you probably knew that as I'm sure I remember a reference to you building an aquarium earlier in the thread)
Of course if you wanted to get really ott (over the top) then put some kind of dry ice effect smoke generator behind it as well ::)
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Argh...ehf....wha??
Alright, that's it, gimme your address. I'm gonna come over and build the damn cabinet myself. You're not even close! You need to start with WOOD not cement slabs!
Next we're going to see you mounting a joystick to the wings of a 747 or something like that... I can't take it.
SOMEBODY LOCK THIS THREAD IT'S KILLING ME!!!!!
Hey...whatcha doing with that straightjacket? Hey get away from me with that thing...IT'S HIM YOU NEED TO SHACKLE! LOOKIT HE'S DRAWING ON THE FLOOR!!! Git away from me with that needle!!! :police:
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Of course if you wanted to get really ott (over the top) then put some kind of dry ice effect smoke generator behind it as well
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That's it, we're forming yet ANOTHER posse and going after Pix. Well, after I get out of this straightjacket that is...
WOOOOOOOOOOOOOOD! ;D
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MWUAHAHAHAHAHA-
Just a question of hours now.
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I think Pixel is just seeing how many Mamey awards he can win without actually having a cabinet. ;)
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hehe...
Well at least I'll prove quadmasta wrong..... I'm past 4 cuts already and Felsir is still working on Red Monica. ;) *inside jab*
If all goes according to plan this afternoon, first pics of the marquee jig construction should be up by end of day PST. :)
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*leaves work* shhhh don't tell boss
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*leaves work* shhhh don't tell boss
But your wife will know once you get home! ;)
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She's working today. :angel:
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There are 9 more photos to come. Maybe photo overkill considering its just the jig, but the various angles should give you a good idea of it's shape. Just wanted to get this one up to stay on schedule for an end of day post. The rest will follow later this evening.
This is the framing of the marquee jig. It's sole purpose is to serve as a form to bend the plastic into the various compound angles for the 3 sided marquee.
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Side view - so you can see how the top of the marquee hangs out over the bottom.
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Gratuitous perspective shot.
I'm guessing this is about the angle from which you would see the marquee when installed.
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Gratuitous close up shot.
Since the top of the marquee hangs out considerably over the bottom, all the cuts had to take the angle (18 deg.) into account.
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Panels installed. Already looming nicely. These will give the plastic a surface to rest against when being bent.
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Starting construction before you have painted your walls!
I like it! ;D
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I hadn't realized how dramatic the angles would be. Cool.
Now I have something to point to when my kids are asking "When am I ever going to use this Geometry stuff in real life?"
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Now I have something to point to when my kids are asking "When am I ever going to use this Geometry stuff in real life?"
Ha! Absolutely. ;D I've spent the last two days wishing someone had better pointed that out to me when I asked. It may not look like much geometrically but it threw me a number of curve balls both when designing it and building it. But then, l maybe that's because I've forgotten just about everything I learned in HS geometry. :-\
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Panels installed. Already looming nicely. These will give the plastic a surface to rest against when being bent. Should make bending a lot easier and more accurate since they follow the planes defined by the 18 degree vertical angles and the 41 degree horizontals.
Not sure if that was an appropriate use of the "new" police smiley... please advise.
Before you get too far into this (hopefully), did you take into account the thickness of those panels installed? What I mean is, do you have the dimensions of where this is going, and did adding those panels just screw up the final product you're making by 1/8" or was that accounted for?
And for someone so creative, I can't believe such poor use of the police smiley. PAIGE uses the police smiley to better effect than you! Makes me wonder if your WIFE isn't the one giving you all the idears, and you're just the wood jockey! ;)
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Astute observation Drew! Yes, it does take the 1/8" into account, but in a backwards sort of way. I had originally designed the plans so that the plastic would ride along the edge of the plywood. In that case I was going to mount boards running vertically (flush) between the plywood to act as braces. I think that may be shown in a sketch earlier in the thread. That would have required a bunch more cutting and measuring so I figured it would be easier, faster, and actually more accurate to simply tack the 1/8" panels along the plywood. Rather than back the additional 1/8th out of all the CAD files, I decided to simply change the thickness of the plexi I plan on using for the inner face of the marquee. So I'll use 1/4" for the outer plexi and 1/8" instead of 1/4" for the inner.
Next photos will probably be of a "test bend" or rather test fold using posterboard. This will allow me to (finally!) determine the actual dimensions of the plexi sheet I'll need. (Since the sides will toenail inwards as they are bent down, the sheet will need to be considerably taller than the vertical dimension of the marquee. It will also allow me to determine the angle I'll need to cant the artwork on the side panels.... since the marquee printout will get bent/folded along the 3 planes, I'll need to compensate for that in the layout. So the art on the sides will be angled in the printout and will level out when folded into position. Not sure if I'm explaining that well... it'll be clear on the posterboard though. I also need to attach a "clamping tab" at the 18 degree angle of the front plane so I have something I clamp the plexi against while bending. I'll bend the inner sheet first. Then, leaving it in place on the jig, I'll bend the outer piece over the top of it. This will ensure that they spoon well together. ;) Of course the entire process involves liberal use of fire, so as far as this thread goes, those pics should be second only in cool to June + family's plasma jet cutter.
In laws will be here this weekend so I may not (probably won't) get to the plastic until... .um.... next week - which is KILLIN' me. But I will definitely get pics of the posterboard test (yeah, yeah I know... yawn) up by tomorrow, so you can see what I'm rambling on about.
And Drew, you forgot to advise about the proper use of the policeman. You've left me just as likely to misuse it in future posts!
Rain and other jobs have slowed my friend's progress on the floor grinding/poishing. He had hoped to have it done by tomorrow, but now it looks like its another week away. If there is enough tolerance for going OT on it, I'll post mock up pics of different color options for the logo and put it to a vote.... any interest?
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Rain and other jobs have slowed my friend's progress on the floor grinding/poishing. He had hoped to have it done by tomorrow, but now it looks like its another week away. If there is enough tolerance for going OT on it, I'll post mock up pics of different color options for the logo and put it to a vote.... any interest?
Um...hellooooooo? Bueller? 8 fricken pages in a thread and NOT ALL the posts are yours. What do YOU think?!? I can't even believe you felt you had to ask if there'd be any interest! Someone pass me a wet noodle, Pixel needs a flogging!
Astute observation Drew!
It had NOTHING to do with my mental prowess, it had more to do with the fact that I've built jigs to ensure things go together myself....and you can prolly infer what happened :'(
Your description of it is crystal clear in my mind....I just had this mental image when I saw your jig where you messed it up and had to build the rest of the entire cabinet around that 1/8" mistake! I've built jigs that took longer than the actual project, and lemme tell ya, I tried to do just that to save myself the headache of building another ::)
And Drew, you forgot to advise about the proper use of the policeman. You've left me just as likely to misuse it in future posts!
On your first use, you must use at least two, unless you state your intentions are to use it as much as possible in all future posts, ala Paige. If this is your second (and beyond) post, you must use as many as possible in order to determine if Dark Kobold can tolerate your usage of the police smiley. If it seems he can, add 5 more to your previous total until you evoke a comment from him. After he comments, you may use them at will, in whatever fashion you wish.
Hope that cleared it up for ya ;)
Someone should make those usage directions a sticky ;) ;D
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Not checked your project for a while Pix, but things are looking pretty damn awesome !
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Not checked your project for a while Pix, but things are looking pretty damn awesome !
i'm not exactly sure what your talkin about, since he's only made a jig for this "@!#?@!" cab so far....and if ya wanna cheat, i guess he made some holes in the floor for it too.
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Let us have a look at some statistics.
At this moment this topic has had 12024 reads.
I have probably read this topic from start to finish maybe 3 times. I have also glanced through several times looking at the pics and reading the odd comment. I figure I have
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Not checked your project for a while Pix, but things are looking pretty damn awesome !
i'm not exactly sure what your talkin about, since he's only made a jig for this "@!#?@!" cab so far....and if ya wanna cheat, i guess he made some holes in the floor for it too. maybe when he gets around to the shell of the cab, we can start commenting on the coolness of his idea, but until then, we must barrel down on him and drive him crazy with sarcastic comments in order to envoke the building process.
Im just generalising with regards to sweet floor design etc...as this is included in the 'project' :) - But yeah we don't expect anything less than something truly out of this world for the actual cab, now (",).
Craig
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oh man I almost feel bad for pixel hugger now--over 12,000 views awaiting his cabinet--it will have to be supercalifragilistcexpealidocious now :D of course considering his talents he could make it completely virtual and none of us plebes would know it...
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Come on Pixel, I know you have already bent the first piece of posterboard by now. Get with the postin. :)
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Yeah, several times. And I was very surprized to see how little the artwork needs to be canted to align properly.. which is a good thing.
Haven't posted any pics since I didn't think anyone would be very interested. I think most people are waiting for the frame of the cabinet. :-\
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Yeah but you can still take photos for the website. ;) You and I have both talked about how important that is. So get to it. :)
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Pixelhugger- I've got an idea for ya!
Make a list of the top ten posters on your thread, or ask for ten volunteers.
generate CAD drawings of ten parts (small enough to fit in the mail)
send CAD drawings to top ten "friends of MCP"
Wait two weeks
Receive parts, post construction pics
Rinse, Repeat
I realize this takes all the fun out of it for you, it's really meant in jest. I'm sure you really don't need the charity but you've got an awful lot of people out here wishing we could just stop by your fancy new garage on the way home from work and give you a hand.
Good luck, and finish the dang project will ya? I can't post about my MCP clone till you're done....
TheDudeVT
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Holy frijoles, I just noticed that you started this thread November 08, 2003! :o
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It seems like it started in 1983...
1.
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You guys are brutal. :)
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Haven't posted any pics since I didn't think anyone would be very interested. I think most people are waiting for the frame of the cabinet. :-\
I can only speak for myself, but I'm interested in any progress pics. I read through this thread a couple times a month, and check it every day for updates. There are probably more than you think who are following your cab as closely if not closer than I am. Personally I find your attention to detail to be inspiring. I rushed through a lot of my cab and wish I would have stopped to plan some things out a little more carefully.
-S
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Thanks for the support guys! Both backhanded and otherwise.
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i guess the easter bunny never visited pixel this year...i was really hoping to see this come to life, too.
so since your not building it, care to give up some pdf plans?
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OK I definitely deserved that one!
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You need to adopt my philosophy, under-promise, over-deliver.
If I were you I would say "This cabinet is scheduled for completion in late 2007, though if the stars align preoperly I could complete in late 2006."
Then when you are able to make small spurts of progress this year, people will be happy.
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There seems to be some misconception that the project is currently on hold. That has never been further from the truth.
There are two stages to the construction that have always been something of an unknown for me, so I've spent huuuuge amounts of time planning and replanning them. The first is the marquee construction, because I'm not very used to working with plastic and the marquee requires extremely precise bending at a couple of compound angles.... which requires geometry... another thing I'm not used to working with ;) (The second intimidating stage is forming and following the curvature of the sides).
So making the jig was the first big breakthrough for me. Until now I wasn't 100% sure it would actually work as needed.
On sunday I bent plastic on the marquee jig for the first time to test its design and make sure it would actually work as planned... which it did, to my huge relief.
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You can do this with any marquee but.....
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...it takes a multi-sided marquee to do this.
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The blue tape indicates the actual trim size of the final plastic for the marquee. It will be mounted at an angle similar to that shown here, which will increase it's looming-nosity.
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Plastic Bending Factoid of the Day:
This update was due to a member's request for plans since he thought I had put the project on hold. I won't be releasing the construction drawings and cad files until this summer when I hope to be close to finished (if not done) with the basic construction. On a related note.. for those who have contacted me about getting the plans, I expect the build to be fairly difficult and expensive. So to make it easier, I'm considering offering to bend marquees to the project's specifications for free (not including the plastic and shipping). Any interest? Because I'd be using the jig to do so, I wouldn't be able to modify or customize dimensions at all, so the cabinet would have to follow the "original" Mission Control dimensions in every way related to the space for the marquee.
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You can do this with any marquee but.....
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=13118.0;id=11830;image)
I don't get it. Put blue tape on it? What? Are we supposed to see something that DOESN'T look out of the ordinary? ;)
Hey, just a question for ya, why did you decide to bend the marquee plexi instead of cutting it and gluing it together? That's what I had originally envisioned when I saw your marquee, and with heat, you were chancing introducing bubbles, which you may have, I dunno, I can't tell with that gaping maw distracting me ;D
Yeah, actually, I'd like for you to bend one for me.....so I can complete mine before you get yours done! ;)
Seriously, I really like the way that turned out. Lemme know why you chose that way, though, because it's bugging me now!
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Glued joints would have been too visible for what I had in mind. Just a personal preference. I wanted the same look as the Dragon's Lair and Space Ace marquees with a smooth uniterrupted face.
As far as bubbles go... not a one. At all. No crazing (interior stretch mark cracks) either. I haven't looked at it with a jewelers loop yet (which I won't do - learned my lesson with that while shopping for my wife's wedding ring), but there are absolutely no visible imperfections in the bend other than some wavy light distortion due to a bit of bulging in the center. I'll take care of that in the final bend by clamping a metal yardstick along the edge to ensure an more even bend.
You're absolutely right though in expecting that IMO. Another reason for a test. I was very concerned about heating an angle evenly. I was sure the thing was gonna catch on fire and melt. I had to double fist two propane torches to heat both faces of the plastic at once.
As I've told a few people... it sounded like the deck of an aircraft carrier in my workshop. I'll have pictures of that when I do the final bend. 8)
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Not sure if this helps see the detail in the edge, DK. Higher res pic, open outside browser to see full size.
There are quite a few scratches and even some small holes in the plastic as it was salvaged to use as scrap.
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Actually, I can see perfectly the effect when looking at that chair through the plexi, excellent!
I think you're right, besides, thinking about it some more, the inside angle might be pretty hard to clear up, and I'd hate to think of the time gluing those angles and then goofing up because your heat got too close to clear up the cut/glue line :o
You used propane torches - do you think a heat gun would work? Dunno how hot mine gets, but 1500w or 2000w seems to be going off in the back of my head. I know I've stripped lino tile with it and no burning with one of the attachment nozzles....mebbe some weekend fun will be in the works!
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do you think a heat gun would work?
I think that's how its usually done. The plastic needs to reach 450 deg to become pliable. It should bend on its own without any pushing or pressure at all.
I've bent lexan of the same thickness with a single torch for an aquarium and it worked just as well. I was concerned that with the longer distance to cover and the angle that I'd be bending, I'd need two torches to maintain even heat. Of course... it's always cool to say the word's "double fist two blow torches" so that was at least partially responsible for the decision.
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HOLY CRAP! No, I mean REALLY! HOLY CRAP!
I have been checking out www.garf.org (http://www.garf.org) and other assorted similar sites, but I have always liked the "look" of a bowfront tank....yet wanted to build my own.....it just dawned on me when you brought up aquariums that I could do a form and bend the stuff recommended for a tank! It'd prolly take a bit longer, since it's so dang much thicker, but still, ideas!
You're brilliant without even knowing at WHAT!
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Hopefully the radius of the bow will allow you to cold bend it... there's a formula online somewhere for that
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Dude, with every update your project gets cooler and cooler. You are truly a wizard when it comes to designing the perfect cabinet, and your attention to detail is amazing! I can't wait to see what's next.
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Wow! Nice bend! I just got done attempting to bend some plexi for my cab and am quite displeased with the results. After looking over what you have done, it looks like I will need some sort of jig too. How well/quickly does a torch heat the plexi? I was using a heat gun and it took forever.
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I was talking with a friend at work the other day about lexan. He said that stuff is "friggin' indestructible". He used to work in a sign shop and said they used to bend it in their press without using any heat.
Just thought I'd mention it. Not sure if it means anything to you or not. But at least now we know you don't need the heat.
Darryl
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@Tahnok - took about a minute for each bend. I was using two torches, though... the bottom torch had a regular nozzle.... about 1/2" ("pencil") flame. The top torch had a little spreader attachment on it to spread the flame out to couple inches wide.
@ dphirschler - Yeah, lexan can be cold bent which is a big advantage. However it depends on the radius you're bending and the thickness of the stock. I could never have applied enough force to bend these angles on the jig, though even if I could I'm fairly sure it would have snapped or cracked. At 1/4" thick you need a much larger radius to cold bend, I believe. Though it sounds like you're friend is a whole lot more experienced than I am, so I defer. :P
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Prolly not as fun as two-fisting two blow torches either.
Darryl
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where is this 84 dollar update...?
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Unlike previous construction updates, this one involves actual parts of the final cabinet. ;) WHOO HOO! I bought the actual plexi for the marquee today on my lunch break. 1/4" thick. 10.5 SQUARE FEET TOTAL! The marquee gets sandwiched between the two bent sheets. The rear piece is frosted to serve as a diffuser without diminishing light transfer as much white plexi would.
The guys at the plastic store said plexi would bend easier than lexan (polycarbonate)... in fact they seemed to think lexan would burn under heat which makes me think I've been dealing with plexi and not lexan all along.
These will be bent by the weekend or sooner. ;) I've learned my lesson and will resist saying they'll be bent tonight.
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where is this 84 dollar update...?
HEH- Boss walked in while I was updating. :police: Had to wait a sec... So I guess modifying the subject heading generates a notification email. Wow.
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i don't have this on notify...i do check the project announcements everyday when i'm at the comp.
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I like ... I like very much..!
I should have said it a lot earlier... How rude of me! :angel:
Anything with it's own flyer dares to be on top of the pile.
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ok, now it says "houston, we have a marquee...", but no marquee.
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Well despite the best efforts to catch the cool blue torch flames it's just not to be. In fact the torches look like they're turned off. But at least you can see how hot they are by looking at the brass flame spreader nozzle attachment thingie which looks like it just got pulled out of a blacksmiths forge.
This is the "inner" or back panel of the marquee. It's frosted to disperse the backlighting, but in thinking about it that's probably uneccessary, unless I print the marquee on translite or something similarly transparent.
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This took significantly longer to bend than the test piece. This is a full 1/4" whereas the test scrap was actually 3/16". Who'd a thunk a 1/16" would mae a difference.
Due to a bit of bowing in the test bend, I clamped a strip of wood along the edge to keep the bend more consistent. After the intial bend I pressed a metal yardstick against the down side and continued heating. Haven't looked at it in the daylight, but in the garage last night it seems to have made a huge difference.
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Looks like a nice straight bend.
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wait, you spent 84 dollars on plexiglass?
With pride.
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Looks like a nice straight bend.
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Yeah people usually complete planning before announcing a project.
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FWIW, my comment wasn't meant as a jab, but an actual welcome. I liked the planning parts as well though.
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FWIW, my comment wasn't meant as a jab, but an actual welcome.
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Don't get me wrong, I love progress pics. But cmon, even you have to admit that is is pretty drawn out. 9 pages and you've got plexiglass. I think people are interested (heck, I am for that matter) but I think you can leave out posts such as *I went to the store and looked at paint*, *Let me tell you my decision process on what type of woodscrews I'm using*, etc...
I love this project, but 99% is filler. You could just as effectively condense all your posts into 1 post without loosing informative content. Quality, not quantity. That being said, the cab you are proposing is unique and very well thought out. Kudos for the vision.
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Well, yes there is some filler. Definitely. I suppose, for example posting a picture of the light diffusion is clearly unneccessary. :P Point taken. :)
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Pixel,
I'll be the first to say not to listen to armax, he is completely off base.
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Thanks Wienerdog! :) I admit my responses can be a bit blog like. But as I told another BYOACer you never know what little comment will jog some idea or other in someone else's head.
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I'm not trying to put him down in anyway.
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The reason that there is so much "filler" is that this project is thinking so far out of the traditional arcade box that it's obviously reinvented the self-constructed arcade community. People have not seen this level of creativity or attention to detail before, and this screams innovation.
I personally love that he's giving a blow by blow because he's coming up with new ideas and walking us through them. For those looking for inspiration beyond the traditional rectangular cube this is exciting. For others looking for the basics this is drawn out. Wait until you see what he inspires the community to accomplish and you'll understand why this is such an extensive and widely read thread.
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Yep, I agree: this project reads like a blog which is great IMHO. The thought that goes into this project is a fun read. Also the enthusiasm Pixel has makes a lot of people follow this thread with great interest.
The 'open' communication (lot's of replies, questions and answers - and great idea's) make this a 'discovery channel'-like thread to me ;D
So, my opinion: Pixelhugger - keep posting!
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Well I guess the bigger question is.....is that right forum for a blog? I would think that a blog would be better served on a personal website. Take a look at the hall of famers, lots of creativity there but they have a website for blogs. The goldmine was pretty lengthy but the thread was a literally a blow-by-blow account of his creative thoughts ALONG WITH construction. Lots of thought has gone into most of these cabs along with ideas that has changed the boundaries of conventional construction (supercade, mom's arcade, goldmine, etc...). It's his thread but I do sense that at this rate, the thread will end up getting locked which would be a disappointment for all of us. I can honestly say that this is the first blog-like thread that I've read....
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There is no conceiveable way to measure the impact that Pixel's cabinet and thread will have. I read this thread and instantly feel "connected" to his thought process. It reminds me to pay attention to the little details, and of how I think through a project. It also reminds me that a really great piece of work takes time.
There are plenty of construction threads to read on this board. There is only one thread like this one. It is quite simple to skip over one thread if it is not your cup of tea ;)
I personally say "keep the supposed mundane details coming."
Dave.
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All I can say is, "that's some tasty filler!"
Blog on, Pixel. Blog on.
;D
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Pixel you should rename this thread.... "Thinking about Making a Unique Cabinet? Same here, follow me on the journey." Or yeah. Just keep it up. Watch out for those nasty bosses they take it right out of ya!
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Nostrebore and americandemon, cmon now. No one is bossing him around nor is the "if you don't like it, don't read it" ::) mentality called for. It's merely a suggestion. I'm just saying that I don't think this project will get much respect from the veterans of the community at this point. Overhype and underachievment don't fare well here as you can see from some of the other vets here. I agree with others here with keeping up the good work, now let's just see some work. He should rename it to "mission control project Blog" but it's his thread. Like I said before, I don't want to see this thread locked for being inappropriate.
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Nostrebore and americandemon, cmon now. No one is bossing him around nor is the "if you don't like it, don't read it" ::) mentality called for. It's merely a suggestion. I'm just saying that I don't think this project will get much respect from the veterans of the community at this point. Overhype and underachievment don't fare well here as you can see from some of the other vets here. I agree with others here with keeping up the good work, now let's just see some work. He should rename it to "mission control project Blog" but it's his thread. Like I said before, I don't want to see this thread locked for being inappropriate.
I cannot understand the sensitivity of this forum's members to the...
"if you don't like it, don't read it" ::) mentality"
When I walk up to a magazine rack, I do not read, cover-to-cover, every magazine. Some I know for a fact that they will not interest me. I will not be knitting anytime soon, so I do not pick up Knitting Illustrated. Others I browse through, and if their "format" or "content" turn me off, I put them back on the rack, never to be picked up again. Now I did not say "IF YOU DON"T LIKE IT... etc." I said it may not be your cup of tea. Just like Knitting Illustrated, you do not share in someone Else's interest in that particular field.
I'm not picking here. Just a bit confused as to why this is out of line?
...It's merely a suggestion. I'm just saying that I don't think this project will get much respect from the veterans of the community at this point. Overhype and underachievement don't fare well here as you can see from some of the other vets here.
This comment is a bit stronger than suggestion. I think Pixel has more than demonstrated to the community that he is not an "underachiever" Just look at his artwork, or the effort he has put into bending 1/4" plexi! What you are witnessing is a passion for his creation, in convenient thread form.
but it's his thread. Like I said before, I don't want to see this thread locked for being inappropriate.
You are absolutely right. It is his thread... and I predict that our friendly conversation is doing exponentionally more harm than his progress reports (or lack thereof as you contend :)) It has been my experience that these types of discussions are the reason for thread locking in this forum. I have yet to witness a lockdown over a plexi bending demonstration.
I, even more than you, would like to see this thread stay on topic - The topic of mundane details that make a good cabinet great.
That is all I have to say.
Oh, except it is Nostrebor. no E is required ;)
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My bossing comment was in regards to his real life boss. Not as in someone bossing him around on the forums. See he has some issues with authority at his RL job at times. They just dont appreciate the amount of time and effort he puts into the BYOAC community. Maybe they do, after all they pay him to do it. :)
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I like his renders and the plans of the cab myself however I wouldn't want to do all that extra work.
This cab has been going on since 2003 and still nothing built. I'm sorry I would have wanted to get it built so I could show it off to the world. But with that said their is nothing wrong with this thread he just wants to be able to visualize the cab before he builds it and make sure he likes the results. After all its not cheap making a cab from scratch.
I can't wait to see the finished machine, I hope he gets it done soon.....
Gary
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We seem to be losing sight of the fact that this is a hobby, and that no one owes anyone anything. I can't believe people are actually whining about the lack of progress. ::)
Do you guys have new babies? Do you have any idea what Pixels real life is like?
How much are you paying for his progress? That is how much value you should expect in return.
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I really appreciate all the support! I absolutely love that other people feel a part of this project - it's exactly what I love about being part of BYOAC. I've got a bunch of threads on autonotify because I look forward to sharing in others' excitement too. Armax... I know you're not ranting and I can understand your frustration. The lack of physical progress on the cab is more frustrating to me than anyone else, you can be sure of that!
As far as the chatty nature of the thread, if it is really that much more blog like than any other... that won't go away any time soon. It's just who I am and what this project is about. The thread will not get locked. It's one of the top ten most read threads in the history of BYOAC. Why lock it unless it gets offensive? At my worst I'm nowhere near as OT in this thread than I've seen regularly in many many many others. And going OT is no reason to lock a thread anyway.
As far as progress goes, I consider the marquee as much a part of actual construction as any other part. :) It is, in fact, the part of construction that most intimidated me... precisely because of how much actual construction it involved. These latest bends are not prototyping, testing or proof of concept. They are structural parts of the finished cab.
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9 pages and you've got plexiglass.
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That's exaggerating a little quaterback. I'm simply saying (and would concurr with pixelhugger that it's not so much the potential for a locked thread as it would be OT....it may end up in arcade miscellaneous as a project announcement implies a project in progress....not so much brainstorming) actual progress of a cab would be appropriate in a project announcement, wouldn't you agree?
Santuro, no drama please. The melodramatic lecture overshadows even my "whining".
I can't emphasize enough how much I look forward to this project, but a thread that started in 2003 can hardly be called a project but rather idea tweaking. Though the plexiglas construction is definitely a step forward. I would love to see every single detail of construction, but idea tweaking is more formulating a project rather than starting one.
Consider my dissenting voice on this thread a representation of many who eagerly await the inception of this concept albeit an impatient one.
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bluezero? suboakleyz? Meh, whatever, it seems to be a combination of the two, however you look at it ::)
Pixel, thank goodness you showed us Toyworks in progress, as well as every other picture, and thank you for trusting us to not only offer you useful help, but to dish out shite, and for taking it in the spirit it was intended.
Change a thing in your process, and those who think you worthy enough of ripping on you to show you some lub will make you pine for those long-ago days of humor at your expense ;) ;D
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p.s.
thanks for your blogs for the token designs, shirt designs, CP designs, marquee designs, jukebox artwork designs, tutorials for Photodorkshop noobs, etc.
We look forward to the companion coffee table book which will complement your website, thread, images, and blogs.
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bluezero? suboakleyz? Meh, whatever, it seems to be a combination of the two, however you look at it ::)
*Ding Ding Ding.*
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bluezero? suboakleyz? Meh, whatever, it seems to be a combination of the two, however you look at it ::)
*Ding Ding Ding.*
::) :P :( >:( :'( :-\
Hehehhee
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Armax,
I feel strongly that you are not going to sway the opinions of those who watch this thread with interest, although you keep trying.
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For the benefit of Pixel's post, can we get back to talking about building stuff? Please? It is obvious at this point the the discussion is deteriorating. Once the word "troll" comes out it is usually all over ::)
I will personally start a new thread in the Everything Else forum to continue this "conversation" if armax would like, but let's stop slinging mud all over Pixel's project.
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nostrebor, sounds good. Sorry If I dragged down the thread. Pixelhugger, Do you have a tentative "to-do-list" on the project? I'd like to see the planning stages on your order of events for this project. Sort of like a NASA countdown checklist....lol...it's actually fitting given the name of the project.
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That's exaggerating a little quaterback.
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thanks for the PM quarterback. You're a class-act and I appreciate the clarification! Thank you for not stooping low and flaming me on here. I guess this thread is exception to the rules for many reasons since y'all have been keeping up with this since 2003. I'll tell ya, this is quite a project. And I thought my modular, rotating cab was going to be complicated.... The final product should be truly amazing.
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....this is such a great project....I can't wait until my grandkids see it!... (I just hope I'm still alive myself by then!).
;)
MameMaster!
PS- Keep up w/the progress pics....this is definitely an over the top cool project that's been fun to follow!
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.... Move it from concept to reality and you'll kill everyone out there... And I thought my modular, rotating cab was going to be complicated....
Modular and rotating! Then it will be complicated. I am beginning to feel that people are overcrediting the actual ground broken by my project. While I do think it will be very impressive from an aesthetic point of view, (and certainly for it's overbranded "production game that never was" feel) as I said before there are a lot of projects that blow mine away from an engineering standpoint. My hat is off to anyone who builds a rotating CP or monitor. I may be bending plastic with fire but it's only to acheive a look I loved as a kid. There is little in the way of actual engineering that is new - from a functional standpoint.
That said, I can't tell you all how much your feedback gets me excited for all this. Back on page one I expected a much more mixed reaction to the cab, so I am thrilled that people are following along with interest.
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Well, I bent the second marquee panel last night. In order to ensure that the two panels "spoon" perfectly together, I bent the outer panel on top of the inner panel - to follow it's contour. I ended up with a beautifully straight and perfectly angled bend. When I went to click pics of the detail, however, I was horrified to find the bend was about 3/4" off of the panel below. >:( :o :'( It literally bent in mid air, by an even offset, on both sides. Man, that was a low moment.
I'm guessing that the wood strip I clamped along the edge to help reduce bowing acted as a sort of heat sink or shield keeping the plastic from heating enough along the fulcrum for the bend. Further complicating the bend is the fact that I can only heat from beneath up to, but not past, the fulcrum. In any case it was a spectacularly disappointing lesson. I repeated the bend with a piece of 3/16" scrap with no wood strip and it flattened perfectly across the bottom sheet. Sooooo... I'll have to redo this tonight/tomorrow with a new piece of 3/16." The quarter inch stuff is just to hard to evenly heat.
On the bright side, I got some coffee table book photos of the fire by killing the camera flash. Small consolation for me as I lost a $30 piece of plexi. :'(
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The setup. Foil wrapped "inner" panel with the "outer" panel clamped on top.
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Imminent failure.
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The heat sink.
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Wait a second..... DOH!!! AAAARRRRRGH!!!!
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Pixel, You are absolutely right about the wood heatsink. I use wood to help control exactly where the heat goes when bending plexi. It can be quite helpful for concentrating the heat into a small area, to force a tight radius without the "pooch" effect that plexi can get when flame bending.
You may have to "slip" the sheet you are working on to force the radius to fall in the right place. If you get the first bend to nest tightly, you can slip the sheet toward/away from the second bend, thus shortening/lengthening the flat space between sheets. you just reposition and clamp(well!)
I personally have never had good luck bending one sheet over top of another. If I'm making nesting sheets, I bend them seperately, using the measure and hope technique :P Unfortunately this bending stuff is more art than science.
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That is INCREDIBLY helpful! Man, you just never know what someone else's valuable experience is. Case closed on the relevance of random musings. Just wish I'd heard this $30 ago. ;) In thinking about it I was beginning to doubt it was a heat sink effect, and thought it was just due to the thickness of the 1/4 stock and the fact I couldn't heat beyond the fulcrum.. so that is great to know.
Luckily the 3/16" stuff softens broadly enough to let me mold (mould?) it to the panel beneath, since I don't think I could ever measure and have a hope to get it right.
That slip technique is clever. If I'd have double checked my work after the first bend I could have saved that sheet. Live and learn. :-\
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So the jig should have been for the smaller inner piece and then bend the larger outer piece around that?
Would that possible work?
Nevermind. After re-reading, I realize that's exactly what you were doing...color me dense ::) So now you're gonna have a quarter inch and a three sixteenths piece sammich?
What about bending a cheap piece of sheetmetal and forming the quarter inch around that?
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Well, the purpose of the inner piece is solely to hold te marquee translite against the outer piece (or vice versa) so only one of the pieces really needs the structural integrity of the 1/4" thickness. Heck, I would think 3/16" would be sufficient for a marquee.
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I have always ragged on wood-grain cabs. This cab makes makes me say, "Just kidding about all that."
Impressive.
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That is INCREDIBLY helpful! Man, you just never know what someone else's valuable experience is. Case closed on the relevance of random musings. Just wish I'd heard this $30 ago. ;) In thinking about it I was beginning to doubt it was a heat sink effect, and thought it was just due to the thickness of the 1/4 stock and the fact I couldn't heat beyond the fulcrum.. so that is great to know.
Luckily the 3/16" stuff softens broadly enough to let me mold (mould?) it to the panel beneath, since I don't think I could ever measure and have a hope to get it right.
That slip technique is clever. If I'd have double checked my work after the first bend I could have saved that sheet. Live and learn. :-\
After re-reading my post this morning, I realized that I left out some info...
When I am using wood for a heat sink, I'm not using a flame. (obviously, the wood would catch fire, unless wrapped in foil, which somewhat defeats the sink ;)) I use a heat gun for thin stuff, and a "heat tape" made for bending plastics for the thicker stuff. (I normally do not need or use wood sinks when using the tape.) The thin stuff is actually harder to bend, as the bends tend to "follow" the shape of the heat line. If the heat line is not straight, the bend will have a dip or swell, and it's off to the trash with your piece >:( Usually I make "bucks" to bend around and clamp wood to the top side at the bend to form a narrow channel. This forces the heat into a straight line, and concentrates it.
Your fulcrum comment actually is probably more of the reason that the bend fell in the wrong place. The center of the heat spread will define where the center of the bend occurs. This is why the "heat tape" works so well. The bend always falls in the center of the width of the tape. If you were heating from the bottom, the center of the heat was probably not centered over the other bend.
Linkage to US Plastic page with mentioned "heat tape" AKA plastrip heater
http://tinyurl.com/cksaq
This tool is the "stuff" for no worry bending.
Dave.
Edit: I keep thinking of stuff to add. I'm done now.
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Nostrebor-
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shmokes - ;D Yeah, a lot of people react negatively to the concept of wood when in reality what they are reacting to is really a plywood or grain issue as you and Drew pointed out in the furniture-esque thread. I was about to quote that stuff here for you and then I realized it was you that posted it in the first place. BTW that was a really funny post. Points one and three cracked me up.
Chris - yeah 1/4" is overkill. I'm the guy that put in 20 or so 12" diameter pier footings for a 9 x12 garden shed.
DK - not sure what the sheet metal would do ??? but yeah, it'll be a 7/16" sammy. :) Pretty thick... see response to Chris above.
mamemaster - hehe ;) I just hope I can finish it while people still remember arcade - how do you say.... cabinets. I think it's lost on my nieces and nephews.
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<snip>
I don't really need two perfectly nested panels at all. While the outer panel needs to be a single piece with perfect bends, the rear panel can be formed with three individual pieces cut and aligned to fit, as long as they don't generate a shadow at the seams. I was fumbling around with this idea in damage control panic mode last night and it seems to make sense. Reading Chris' clarification about structural integrity validates it.
<snip>
You better do a test before commiting to 3 pieces. If you have a hard line in the plastic, it "should" throw a shadow. I've never tried what you are trying, but I would expect it to happen, especially at 3/16" thickness. Plexi/Lexan diffuses light quite well along a hard edge. Flame polishing the edges will help a bit, but probably not enough.
If you go the 3 piece route, you might experiment with a steep bevel on the edges at the bends. Think of a funnel. This would put the hard edge away from the front edge and might let the light get in/diffuse more evenly.
In reality, I expect that most of the outcome will depend on the quality/transparancy of your print in the middle.
Do you have any 1/8" plexi to experiment with? That might be a good route for the back piece. It's *much* easier to work with when forming complex non-showing shapes. Just watch the heat, as it will bubble exponentionally faster. you could easily heat it just from the top side.
Dave.
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"Who are you who is so wise in the ways of plastic!!"
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...and to continue the OT movie references -
Looks like I inadvertantly channeled Episode 3 in that torch pic. Hehe- hope that doesn't spoil anything for anyone.
"If you bend me down, I shall become more frustrating than you can possibly imagine..."
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"Who are you who is so wise in the ways of plastic!!" *lifts visor for better view* :)
Thanks for the response. Now I can finally time my work AFTER your advice!
I'm actually hoping that any shadow will be obscured by the heavy stock the marquee will be printed on. Initially I wanted a diffuser in case I would be using a real translite material, but since the marquee will almost certainly be printed by mamemarquees, it'll actually be quite a bit more "solid."
Still though it's making me nervous. Do you think 1/8" will be stiff enough to keep the marquee from buckling/sagging? Guess it warrants another test. :police:
My problem is that maybe I am not completely it the light on how this thing goes together. Assuming that the 1/4"+marquee print+1/8" plexi are sandwiched together and then trapped in a groove or by some other method, I think you could stand on the edge without buckling the marquee. 1/4" acrylic is *quite* strong on edge. If you capture the 1/8" in a groove, especially a 3-sided bent piece, it will be plenty rigid. On my cabinet (2) 1/8" plexi's sandwich my print, and are captured at the two long edges. I would have to put all my weight against the assembly to move it.
The purpose of the backing piece is just to support the print, right?
As far as my plastic experience... I have used it for a variety of things. From basic arcade parts to cantilevered see-through handrails in a Church balcony that will take code impact loads. My work uses plastics for some concrete forming processes and shimming. I've built tanks (friend has a tropical fish breeding business) and free-form shapes with flame polished edges just to see what the stuff will do. (Deep down inside I want to be one of those geeks on Myth busters that just do random stuff with all sorts of materials :))
Working plastics is a direct cross from woodworking - a lot of the same principals apply, so it was a pretty easy fit for me.
Dave.
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Again, I appreciate the feedback.
BTW I hope the Monty Python reference came across as complimenting you not questioning you!
I haven't worked out the finer details of how the marquee will be mounted, but have always figured I would cut a channel into the top, bottom and sides of the wood around the plastic to hold it in place. If it will hold as well as you mentioned using channels only in the sides that would sure simplify things. I guess the tough thing is ensuring it applies pressure evenly across the front. You are right, the rear piece is solely to flatten the marquee in place.
I had toyed with the idea of using some sort of u-channel to hold the panels together tightly but this gets a bit squirrelly since the plastic comes down at a angle.. and the channel would have to be bent to follow the 3 sides.... plus I'd prefer to not have a visible retainer.
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There is no possible way to be upset about a Monty Python reference. I own that movie... the quote "Tis but a flesh wound" still makes me laugh any time I think about it :)
I should probably go back and look at your posts to see how you were planning on retaining the marquee, but I don't really have the hour to spare :P ;D
A retainer along the long bent sides (top/bottom) will make the assembly very solid. Retaining the sides only would give it opportunity to flex in and out. The real question is how to get the thing assembled. If you groove the wood and then assemble the cabinet, you won't be able to install your marquee assembly. You could cut some blocking for the backside and that would give something for the assembly to push against, but you need a removeable moulded outside retainer. I'll leave that bit of design sculpting up to your capable imagination ;)
Edit: Well crap! I couldn't stand it! I scrolled thru the 8 million pages of this thread and found a rendering of your Marquee area.
Ummm... question? What the heck holds that thing in there? How will you take it apart to change the lightbulb when it burns out? I have some thoughts (good ones maybe ;)) but I want to hear your plan first.
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Well, if all you are doing is sticking your marquee in there, and it's gonna be lit from behind, will it really matter if it's spot-on perfect with the bends?
As long as the back piece is relatively close, it should keep the shape and those angles should force the piece to lay close to the outer surface.
The sheetmetal idea was just to serve as both a makeshift jig, and a diffuser. Since you can get the angles identical to the original jig, my thinking is that you'll be able to heat the sheet metal from the underside INSIDE the jig, and the underside OUTSIDE, but not doing this myself, I may just be thinking something that in reality won't work. Mebbe heat tape on the top, the pencil flame inside the jig, and the spreader flame for between the jig and plexi atop it.
Did ya folla alla dat?
I think the cut/glue backer will show through on the white border/bounding line you have going around the marquee. Glue a piece and see, but I think Nos is gonna be right on that one.
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Ummm... question? What the heck holds that thing in there? How will you take it apart to change the lightbulb when it burns out? I have some thoughts (good ones maybe ;)) but I want to hear your plan first.
I'm all ears to any good ideas.
My thinking has been along two lines.
1- Make the top panel of the marquee box...the wooden "lid" removable, or maybe piano hinged. Of course, that may compromise the fit of the top edge of the plexi in the channel of the lid.
At 6.5 feet high it's not going to be very visible up top, but I would want it to be nicely finished up there regardless. I do think it would be possible to make a fairly seamless transition (at least aesthetically) from the arched top of the cab to the hinged panel.
2- There is a speaker cover beneath the marquee box. I was thinking of making this removable and using it to hide a "trap door" for the light assembly itself- so you could actually remove the light fixture or swing it down to replace lights/starters etc. I have a sketch of this somewhere.. now to find it....
#1 appeals to me most as I don't want the marquee printout to be permanently sandwiched... in case it fades and I need to replace it. Or in case...heaven forbid... I decide to rework the art yet again.
Regardless I realize I need access to all parts of the cabinet. It has been a lot to think about with the curved back and top... I imagine the monitor will need to be mounted in a way to allow it's removal/sevicing too. I'm not wild about the idea of sticking a door or access panel along the back curvature, but that may be a necessary evil too.
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Here's a rough idea of what I'm talking about. Again.... I'm all ears for suggestions.
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Well, if all you are doing is sticking your marquee in there, and it's gonna be lit from behind, will it really matter if it's spot-on perfect with the bends?
Proabably not... especially if I can get away with 1/8" stuff since I'm *pretty* sure I can get that super close.
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You have very sound ideas. Here is mine...
Build a sub-assembly box that houses your marquee and light. Make it so it slides into the opening in the front of your cabinet. secure with 2 screws that are hidden by your speaker grilles. Recess the front edges of the sub-assembly box to give some added "dimension" to the marquee opening. Edge treatments to suit. This allows you to secure the marquee in a fully surrounding groove. You could use screws to put the box top on - access for art changes and bulb changes. Best of all - no hinges to ugly up your cabinet.
(edit: crap typing job)
Pic:
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:o
Digesting new concept and possibilities.
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One thing is for sure...
You've completely captured my attention with this cabinet ;D I just hope my boss didn't notice my slacky-ness at work today.
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Hehe ;)
I have developed a reflex like instant window minimizing Pavlovian response to the sound of approaching footsteps for just that reason.
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i never would have believed that anyone could add to mission control...but i think that has just occured.
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Well, I'm ate up at this point... the whole sub-box thought process is flowing.
To expand on my box theme. You could work a space or groove between the outside of the sub-box assembly and the inside face of the opening in the front of the cabinet. Then drill a number of small holes through the perimeter of the sub-assembly back from the edge - just enought to let some light thru. This would make the marquee box appear to "float" inside the cavity. Kinda like an architectural backlight effect. You could even get some blue film to put over the holes to force a blue cast.
Or you could just do it like I show above :P
Dave.
(edit: modified pic = 1000 words. modified bottom edge only. The scale is all wrong, but you get the idea. right?)
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i never would have believed that anyone could add to mission control...
Never underestimate the ingenuity of the people here.
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After further thought, my idea above seems kinda "pimpin". Maybe I should sleep on it.
Of course pimpin out someone else's cabinet is more fun than pimpin my own :-X
Maybe skip the "light" part and just have the "floating box" part? I will await your thoughts Sir.
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I hate to shift subjects in the middle of a brain storm, but I can't help myself. Of all the elements of your cab, the one that got me all warm & fuzzy was the awesome art detail for your medium round lighted buttons to change emulators. These got me so excited, I ordered a couple of different lighted round buttons from Happ and got them in today. One is red and one is blue. Oh, oh - that's going to tint the artwork. I figured you would use clear plastic buttons and the artwork would be lit by white light. I went back to Happ's site to order some clear buttons, and I DO NOT FIND AN OPTION for clear lighted medium round buttons.
AM I MISSING SOMETHING? I really want to add that element of cool to one of my projects.
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http://www.happcontrols.com/pushbuttons/5400046x.htm
It's item #: 54-0004-61
Catch is they call it "white" not "clear" even though the window on the button is clear. The artwork will be available to whoever wants it for these buttons. If you have Illustrator you can swap the type out to customize.
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Catch is they call it "white" not "clear"
I have been working on 4-5 hours of sleep a night for the past 3 weeks so I feel really stupid right now. Thank you for pointing out what should have been very obvious.
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Hehe ;)
I have developed a reflex like instant window minimizing Pavlovian response to the sound of approaching footsteps for just that reason.
(psssst. assign the center click to minimize the current window ;). pass it around)
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(psssst. assign the center click to minimize the current window ;). pass it around)
Heh. I did that at my last employer. I also had a program that I had found which, when you used the middle mouse click to minimize it would hide it off of the taskbar too. The only way to bring the window out of hiding was to hit Alt + Middle mouse Button. Now if I could only remember the name of it.
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(psssst. assign the center click to minimize the current window ;). pass it around)
Heh.
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Nostrebor-
I've been thinking a lot about your ideas. There's no question the removable box is definitely a superior design for access. I'm undecided on the double layer of trim due mostly to the fact that it would change the overall look of the marquee that I've grown so accustomed to these last... oh... years.
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(Edit below)
Ummm... OK?
It's your decision man.
I would expect more snags though. It's just the normal life cycle of any prototype. The more complex the prototype, the more recurring snags, and your proto complexity level is pretty high.
How about this thought. If your marquee is removable... and you build you cabinet... and it constantly bothers you... couldn't you just bend another marquee later? Like after the rest of the cabinet is done?
I personally allow certain things to slide on a prototype, based on one simple rule:
Rule #1 - If I can tweak it after the prototype is complete, and it does not require me to alter some other aspect of the construction process, I move on to the next step. (AKA: the "Progress over Perfection" rule)
Please understand that I do not consider my rule a free ride to be a screw up. Based on your previous work, I don't suspect that will happen though. ;)
This rule allows me to finish my project and/or move forward to the next setback, whichever comes first. Then after the prototype is substantially complete. I tweak it to perfection.
Look at the bright side! The second one you build will be a piece of cake, because you already know where the setbacks will occur.
This has been - Deep thoughts from Dave.
BTW. I was starting to wonder what happened. So much momentum there for a bit!
Edit/Add: Reading through strikethru stinks! On read #3 I noticed that the marquee is wider than planned. How much? Can you adjust for this "revision" in your 3D model and decide to love it or hate it? Is it $60+ too wide?
Just some ??? to ponder
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Yeah... what you said. :)
If I were to rebend later I would have to rebuild the top and bottom panels that hold the marquee in place. And re-rout and angle the channel etc. It'd be more work than I'd be willing to undertake at that point I think.
But as I continue to think about it, especially after reading through my own thoughts on it, I think it's clear to me that I've got to let certain things go. The width of the marquee front is not something to live or die by. It is a noticeable change from certain angles but it's the sort of thing I'd only see when toggling back and forth between images, not something I'd really notice if I didn't have a "before and after" to compare. I'm sorry to distract the thread. I felt like I had to make a decision for this weekend to either move forward or buy more stuff and start again.
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Reading through strikethru stinks! On read #3 I noticed that the marquee is wider than planned. How much? Can you adjust for this "revision" in your 3D model and decide to love it or hate it? Is it $60+ too wide?
Yeah, I had adjusted it and rerendered. When I saw the noticeable change in aspect ratio I got nervous. But I'm just mooooooving on.
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Good for you PH.
Because thats how we roll. ;)
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Thanks to a generous plastic bending expert BYOAC member.. I'm awaiting a strip heater to borrow for the final marquee face bending. Yeehah! So the marquee plastic should be done this weekend.
Until then I'm updating the thread with the OT but semi related Build Your Own Workshop Floor Logo project mentioned some time back. If nothing else, hopefully this shows that I do in fact complete my crazy, overambitious projects..... errr... eventually. ::)
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Wow! That kicks ass. That's gonna look great reflecting your eventual finished and lighted cab.
Regarding the artwork on your cabinet... As cool a design as that "rocket sprocket" is, your marquee and cpanel image don't seem to match the same style. They both look great, mind you, but just don't seem to match the rocket image style.
You seem like a capable artist. So the same thing might have been nagging you in the back of your head. Or perhaps you have resolved it somehow. If that is the case, I'd like to hear your thoughts.
Darryl
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Well, Mission Control is to the Toyworks logo what Centipede is to Atari. ::) Hehe. So, maybe some separation of style is a good thing. :-\ But you're right... I would like to incorporate it into the cab artwork to match the cab sides, since the metal logo looks so cool.
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DAMM !!!!! :o :o :o :o
a room with matching logo on the floor !!!!
Holy Molly !!!....
really... donno what to say.... this board is full of such crazy people... haaa haa... (I mean it in a GOOD WAY !!!...)
THIS IS GREAT !!!... "I AM IMPRESSED !!!" is not even close to describe my feelings....
sorry for jumping in like that... but seeing this brings me to a whole new level.... this is JAW DROPPING good...
I really look forward to any progress / pics...
side note: anyone is re-modelling his house to become a matching custom cab ??? like a whole house with a theme with a few matching theme cabs ???
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nice.
Did you wet the floor, or is it sealed with something to give it that mop-n-glo shine?
If you want to move to Missouri, I can get you a job as a concrete patcher in one particular precast plant ;)
sidebar:
when you get that heater, plug it in and hold it for a bit. Maybe it's just me, but those things seem to have a fair amount of electric current leakage. You can post your results in the 5-in-1 thread where we are all sharing our electric shock experiences :D
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No wetting. No coating. It's diamond polished to 3000 grit. By contrast most smooth warehouse floors are taken to 400 grit. So thats the actual concrete shining. Smooth as glass! Best of all I can blow the sawdust off the floor ;D ;D ;D
I didn't do much of the work... only the logo carving and help with the line layout. I did get to do one or two passes with the polishing machine. But my concrete finishing friend did the rest. And it was a TON of work. Pass after pass after pass. It was a sort of practice canvas for him to test new procedures and stains. I'm covering the cost of materials and the hourly rate of his assistant. I could never afford the job otherwise.
And thanks again for the loaner Nostrebor!! I can hardly wait!
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PH,
THAT IS JUST FREAKING AWESOME. I'm sure you are very proud of it. I know I would be.
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OK...ummmm, WOW!
That is serious overkill for a garage floor... I like it!
Be very careful in wet shoes. It will be slick. Actually even sawdust will make it slick... just be careful.
And you are welcome :)
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You're going to be surprised when you walk inside your shop from the rain and go horizontal on that glass like floor.
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Pay no attention to the doomsayers. A few broken bones from slipping is a small price to pay for your beautiful floor! ;)
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Hehe... as long as I don't take a header into the table saw. ::)
It's surprisingly grippy, actually. The local Home Depot just did the same to the floors in their new kitchen cabinet design center. Given the overly litigious nature of Californians, I'm guessing if it were a slip and fall risk in the slightest they'd never have done it.
I've wet it down several times and never had the sense it was anywhere close to being slippery. Certainly no more than the vinvyl composition tiles in the grocery store... or local highschool woodshop. Much grippier than either of those I think. :)
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Gotta tell you Pixel, that is the coolest. If I ever have a workshop, polished concrete is going to be on the floor.
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I'm not saying that you are gonna fall, I'm just saying be aware. That is from a guy who works in the concrete industry helping designers decide to do stuff just like that!
(I'm just sensitive right now. I have been installing laminate flooring - it has reminded me of slip hazards on the shop floor. Laminate makes the perfect concrete ski.)
I actually have access to all the tools, stains, etc. to do a floor like that, free of charge even. I am simply too lazy to put the effort into it ;)
My garage floor has a more natural look. 15 years of oil, overspray, burn marks and overall damage from building stock cars and car restorations. the only "intentional" mark on the floor is the line designating where to stand to throw darts. My shop floor is a historical landmark. 1000 years from now, a seasoned archaeologist will enjoy the story it tells of my life, and the greatness of my varied and sundry hobbies :P
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The floor is very cool, but I have to ask what does this have to do with building a Arcade machine?
Gary
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The floor is very cool, but I have to ask what does this have to do with building a Arcade machine?
Check out the whole thread: Pixelhugger is creating a cabinet with cool matching floor ;D
Great stuff :)
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The floor is very cool, but I have to ask what does this have to do with building a Arcade machine?
Check out the whole thread: Pixelhugger is creating a cabinet with cool matching floor
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That is the coolest workshop floor I've ever seen. Did you take any before and after photos? Are you worried about cracks, since you live in earthquake territory?
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Oh, there are cracks. A slab that big with no scoring to channel them and I guess that's to be expected. It's cool though, adds character. Yeah, that's it.... character. :P
The only before pics are a couple pages back in the thread showing the engraving. Before it was basically like sidewalk concrete.
Ghoward- Yeah, it's a bit OT. In my obsessed mind however the workshop and the cabinet are part of the same larger picture. The floor is relevant (sorta) because of its logo, which it shares with the cabinet. Originally I was gonna do vinyl composition tiles with a space invader image in a contrasting color in the center.... so I guess I've still got it in my head that it is arcade related. :P
Nostrebor- I do appreciate the advice ;D and didn't think you were naysaying. I am, after all, the kind of guy who could slip and fall while standing still, so the concern is a valid one. :-\
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The floor is very cool, but I have to ask what does this have to do with building a Arcade machine?
Check out the whole thread: Pixelhugger is creating a cabinet with cool matching floor ;D
No no no no no no NO! You've got it all backwards. He was creating a cool workshop floor with a matching cabinet ;D
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Wow!
And my wife calls me a nerd.
Guess the cabs gonna have to me included when you sell the house.
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Now that's Arcade Passion for ya!
Outstanding PixelH!!
spriggy
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What more can I add....
AWESOME
:)
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If he didn't spend so much time working on the floor etc he would have a working cab by now.
How about custom wallpaper? With the logo on it. Then we could have "Mission control wallpaper hanging"
Sorry about the comments but I want to see the finished cab as much as everyone else, it looks wonderful in the renders.
Gary
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If you really wanted to see the cab done, you wouldn't be giving him cool ideas like wallpaper, etc.
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If you really wanted to see the cab done, you wouldn't be giving him cool ideas like wallpaper, etc. ;D
Chalk one up for Dave! :D
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We have all learned that it is anti-productive to suggest things that appeal to Pixel's creative side. ;) ;D
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....wait...wait....
Hmmmmm..... what about Mission Control...... bedspread and sheet set....
.....matching pajamas.....
...pillowcases.....
.....electric toothbrush maybe........
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How about a coffee table book about your build.....kinda like a companion to the whole thing....or a flyer, like they used to have announcing new games or..... ::)
;)
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[kelso voice] "BURN!!!" [/Kelso voice] ;) ;D
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I'm sure my little post here will get everyone excited to think Pixelhugger updated this thread.
I went and registered just FOR this thread and now I come back and find it buried on page two with no updates for 2 weeks?
What's up Pixel? You rolling around naked on your new polished cement floor?
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Not checked this thread for a bit. Pix - one word = S T U N N I N G !!!!
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So when is the actual construction of the cabinet going to start? I've seen lots of work on the accessories (marquee plexi and floor) but any thoughts on an ETA on cutting wood?
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I've been trading PM with Pixelhugger... He's buried at work right now.
Sometimes those pesky jobs get in the way of our ever-important hobbies :-\
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Due to a last minute scheduling "power grab" of congressional proportion I snuck a couple of hours into the project before work was the wiser.
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Along the way we'll be staining the area outside the gear a deep blue, and coloring the area between the gear and rocket a coordinating color.
How does one stain concrete?
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There are special concrete dyes and stains. These are different from the colorants you can add when mixing concrete.
I'm really not sure what the difference between the stains and the dyes are. I believe my friend used dyes on my floor, since (if I remember correctly) stains wouldn't work as well with the polishing. I could be wrong tho. They are pretty expensive. We decided not to color the whole floor blue, but had we done so it probably would have cost a hundred bucks wholesale. The stuff is about $90 per gallon.
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Finished all marquee bending!! Both faces are ready for trimming to final size.
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Why aren't you at work :police:
;D ;D
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Hehe. Well I am now. In fact, I just passed my boss in the hall and he said... "Oh! You are here."
Phew.
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Here's the heater setup. Everything is upside down from the way I bent with the torches. This allowed me to heat the inner radius to avoid plastic pukering from uneven heat where the plastic was compressing during the bend. Or something like that. :P
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New outer face bent to existing inner panel.
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The 1/4" inner panel is so strong it turned out the jig was unnecessary for this stage.
Here's the diffusing action of the textured inner panel in... err... action.
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Spooning like the torch bent pair never could.
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Big huge thanks to nostrebor for the strip heater loan. The collaborative nature of these boards... and the expertise and generosity of its members never cease to amaze me.
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Are those actually going to sit right on top of another, possibly with the printed marquee in between the two?
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Exactly. They'll be held together in a channel on the top and bottom, sandwiching the artwork between them.
EDIT: clarification and spelling
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Big huge thanks to nostrebor for the strip heater loan. The collaborative nature of these boards... and the expertise and generosity of its members never cease to amaze me.
You are quite welcome. I'm glad that I could help to keep the compromises to a minimum!
(BTW, I still think the flame pics were cooler :P ;D)
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Nos, I truly agree. You can't beat fire.... well visually speaking that is.
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Along the way we'll be staining the area outside the gear a deep blue, and coloring the area between the gear and rocket a coordinating color.
How does one stain concrete?
with oxides.
hey is it just me, or does pixelhuggers avatar remind anyone of BMW?
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hey is it just me, or does pixelhuggers avatar remind anyone of BMW?
Yes, it IS just you, but don't worry. When we point and laugh, it's not at your expense. Honest.
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Just secured a much coveted and nearly impossible to obtain spot in the local woodshop lab. Work has stalled out on the cabinet without access to some of the bigger tools I need. I've been hoping to get away to my dad's to use his, but haven't been able since work forced cancelation of plans to do so in may. The lab starts sept 17th. Sooooo......
Best case scenario I can use my dad's workshop to get the side panels glued up and cut before then, allowing me the entire "semester" to do the rest of the cab.
Worst case scenario the sides will have to wait until the lab starts.
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If you would simply move to Springfield, MO I would provide some shop space, and tools...
It's just a thought ;)
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no updates?
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Wow thats funny, after such a long absence I was about to post an update last night then thought nobody would really be interested in the minutia so I didn't... thinking I'd wait until the woodshop lab started.
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Pixel, Pixel, Pixel...
Thread is two years old, 12 pages long, has 459 replies, 20,000 views and all we have is a metal rocket, some second hand joysticks and a bent piece of plastic.
Granted this design is a piece of art (a design I happen to love), and I can only imagine the plethora of construction challenges you have had to overcome before starting, but something just ain't right here..... ::)
Time to get cracking.
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Hehe.. I knew I was tempting fate by updating without construction. ::)
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Hehe.. I knew I was tempting fate by updating without construction. ::)
Like a man walking around in the rain wearing nothing but underpants made from sugar.
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Pixel, Pixel, Pixel...
Thread is two years old, 12 pages long, has 459 replies, 20,000 views and all we have is a metal rocket, some second hand joysticks and a bent piece of plastic.
Granted this design is a piece of art (a design I happen to love), and I can only imagine the plethora of construction challenges you have had to overcome before starting, but something just ain't right here..... ::)
Time to get cracking.
You forgot the alien on the floor
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It does seem to be taking an extremely long time to get construction started. :o
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As I said, I love the design. If Pixel wants to send me the plans I will happily build it.
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If Pixel grants my approval, I can show my incomplete prototype.
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If Pixel grants my approval, I can show my incomplete prototype.
Dude, no one here wants to see that. Now zip up yer friggen pants and stop pestering us. And NO! We will NOT "pull your finger"
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show the prototype. Heck, let's have contest to see who can build Mission Control before pixelhugger. I've already started the plans....
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Well I asked Dema way back when I gave him the files for the sides not to share pics until I had posted my own.
He has honored that agreement and I'd like to thank him publicly for that. ;D The sides will be the first thing I do in the woodshop class so it won't be long *ducks* I know, I know.
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Pixel was nice enough to share the file with me a year ago and I wanted to make sure all his efforts and labor wasn't in vain, so I agreed to hold off on posting any pictures until he completed his or gave me the go-ahead to show mine. I tweaked the design a bit to accomodate a rotating control panel, but it still has a similar enough design on the sides to where the homage is apparent. Mine is definitely not going to compare with the quality of his. No metal logos, fancy wood, or bent plexi. A lotta high quality wood putty though.
I'm currently putting the finishing touches on the actual construction, and then I'm going to take my time in creating artwork and then wiring the puppy up. When Pixel gives his blessing I'll show it off...and no Drew I'm not talking about my package or my grundle. ;)
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Well given the pictures, it wasn't very hard to replicate on blueprints. I've completed a set based on the pictures approximately to scale with the lucid design. I'll probably start cutting somewhere in late september (gettting restless after completing a supercade cab in July. I plan on using ideas on this thread (already lined up a metal working buddy for the sideart and working with a glass business on bending the plexi). I'm sure you'll finish before me (I've completion set around december). It's a great design which I'm sure will spawn many replicas.
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WHOO HAH!! That makes 2 replicabs! I'm not entirely sure what you meant by "to scale" with Lucid's design... is it a hybrid of the two?
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I'm sure you'll finish before me (I've completion set around december).
How sure? ;)
Pixel,
Aren't we about 10-15 days from class starting?
(Someone need to make a countdown clock for this thread. ;D)
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WHOO HAH!! That makes 2 replicabs! I'm not entirely sure what you meant by "to scale" with Lucid's design... is it a hybrid of the two?
no, I meant in terms of size. not a hybrid.
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Sweeeet!
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Woodshop lab has started. This first lab (following last weeks boring but mandatory machine safety lab) was extremely short (1 hour versus the normal 2 1/2 to 3 hours). I spent most of the time discussing plastic cutting issues with the instructor and trimming the marquee to it's rough vertical size. I had hoped to get the top and bottom edges flush trimmed and finished but ran out of time.
Sides won't be cut until October, so I'll be using the lab sessions up to that point for the parts that don't rely on the finished sides... specifically the marquee and its "lid" and bottom panels, the nav panel, the mini marquee, and the control panel.
Next week I'll finish the marquee edges and hopefully drill the CP. I plan on using the same technique for cutting and bullnosing my trackball hole that I used on my first CP... this time I'm going to document it though. ;)
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Because the plastic was bent at such extreme angles, I had to start with a much larger sheet so as it toenailed upward I would still have enough left to trim it to it's final size. You can see the angle I had to trim along the pencil mark.
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This shows the actual shape of the marquee, it's real height (after trimming off a ton of plexi on the top and bottom), and how it will angle forward to loom over the player. Trimming the excess off the top and bottom dramatically increases the pitch forward when sitting on the table.
The marquee is still much wider than the final size. I won't trim this dimension down until I finish the top and bottom panels and install it.
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Have you put a marquee in between in the sheets and put a light source behind it yet?
I used 2nd hand perspex for my marquee and once i put my black artwork behind it and added a light source, it showed up all the stress marks in the perspex.
Im wondering if the curve you have added has had the same effect, I hope not.
Cheers.
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Yeah, I was very concerned about "crazing" (as one plastics guy put it). Thankfully, there are no visible stress marks or cracking whatsoever... though if I remember correctly those kinds of hairline cracks can show up over time. I used the same technique to bend plastic for a couple of small aquariums with significantly more acute angles/smaller radii and after 3 years or so they are still crystal clear. ;D I imagine it depends largely on how hot and how evenly the plastic was heated before bending... and I'd guess that cold bent plastic would be even more susceptible to this. I'm not familiar with perspex.
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I think its just the aussie word for lexan.
Well done if there is no stress marks, great cab
Cheers
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Thanks!
Couldn't have bent the face without Nostrebor and his Magical Travelling Strip Heater.
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Stress marks in polycarbonate or acrylic at bends are typically caused by too low of a temperature at the bend during bending, or a fast/wide temperature swing during cooling after the bend is completed. Sometimes these show up right away, sometimes later.
By using a strip heater, <disclaimer>and letting it get the plastic to full bending temperature</disclaimer>, You have very little chance of fractures. If you play with bending plastics at all, a strip heater is worth every penny. Just be sure to follow the simple instructions if you get one.
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I've spent the last two labs cutting and drilling the CP and finishing the marquee plastic. I used 1/4" Lexan (instead of plexi) for the CP hoping to avoid the chipping I had on my original CP and my Arcade of Whoopass CP.
The Lexan drilled out incredibly cleanly and was very easy to work, without cracking or splintering. The only downside was cutting the gianormous 3" trackball hole with a really big forstner bit. See comparison pic below. The smaller is the 1 1/8" bit used for the button holes. Once the bottom of the 3" hole got within about 1/16"
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Next I routed the trackball hole lip with a 1/4" roundover bit, smoothed the edge with 220 grit sandpaper, and polished it with plastic polishing compound and using a cloth wheel on a drill. It's smooth as glass now, but I think I'll polish it further with a dremel to get it really shiny.
First pic is the entire panel before bullnosing. Second pic is post bull nosing. The plastic looks white because the protective film is still on the back. The rounded lip should become reflective like glass once the polishing is complete.
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I'll be getting my artwork from Mamemarquees.com soon so the CP will be the first completed part of the cabinet. I still need to cut the rounded front and hole for the trackball assembly.
The marquee panels are now finished and ready to mount once I get the top and bottom of the marquee box done. (Surprizingly) the angles and edges all line up well enough that the panels can stand unsupported on the ground with no wobble.... even though the tops hang out over the bottoms. Doesn't sound like much, but I was flying by the seat of my pants designing these and later desining a way to make what I designed, so I'm pretty amazed it actually worked. Pics of what I'm talking about should be up late tonight.
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Here's a gif to see if video works in a thread.
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Wooohoo!
Mission Control, we have lift-off. ;)
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That big forstner bit looks like a self-feeding one. When that happened, did it kind of "all of a sudden" dig in? I know forstners that large cost a mint - did you consider using a circle-cutting bit, and if so, why didn't you go with that? If not, the point is moo. ;)
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Excellent Joey reference DK.
I used a hole saw on my last panel and it worked well. I only used the 3" forstner because it was available in the lab... (free) and I thought it would be better than my 3" hole saw. And yes, it all of a sudden dug in. ;)
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Excellent Joey reference DK.
I used a hole saw on my last panel and it worked well. I only used the 3" forstner because it was available in the lab... (free) and I thought it would be better than my 3" hole saw. And yes, it all of a sudden dug in. ;)
That screwpoint hits a certain point and all of a sudden starts "threading" itself in. You prolly hit the material under the lexan and 1 or 2 threads caught....blammo! Perfect for wood and stuff like that.
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Hey, that routed lip on the trackball mounting surface looks jazzy! Me like!
- Dan
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Not only does it look jazzy, but it looks downright friggin' rockabilly! Frickin' great job. See? That's the kind of work you get out of someone with patience. Me? I'm like, let's see how frickin' fast I can put this together while making it look good enough.
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Thanks for the feedback. Hopefully the lip will get even shinier once dremmeled and when it has artwork beneath it.
These next pics are a bit redundant. They show the final trimmed top and bottom of the finished marquee. Surprizingly they actually sit flush on the floor with no wobble... which is more than I can say for the idiot proof kit chairs I've assembled.
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The coffee table pics help show how this will all look in place. I couldn't resist drawing arrows to show all the angles that have been so difficult for me throughout the process. This'll be far and away the part of the cab construction process I'll be most proud of (since I can't take construction credit for the super cool plasma jet rocketsprocket stage) ;) Chris and June... you're the best!
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I took the dremel to the tball hole after resanding with 320 and 600 wet. I'm not sure how much of the additional shininess is due to the dremel polishing and how much is due to peeling off the white protective backing which definitely seemed to dull the reflection.
Either way, I'm satisfied with where it is now. Next step is tracing the trackball mounting plate and routing out a recession to flush mount it into the particle board.
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I've gotten the side panel cutting template printed at Kinko's. After taping it up on the wall to double check dimensions.... I'm concerned that the CP height may be a bit too low. The part of the CP where the joys and buttons live is at roughly 35" from the ground. If I'm reading Lucid's plans correctly, the lowest angle of his CP is at 33 1/4 and the highest is at 35 1/4 (assuming a 3/4" thick CP). Anyone with a finished cab care to comment on optimum height? :P
Here's the printout. Followed by a rendering of the cab to scale.
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I don't like the controls any lower than a few inches below my elbows.
I have two EMULATOR cabinets. One is an SNK Neo-Geo cabinet and the other is a scratch built LuSiD cabinet made from the plans in Saint's book.
On the SNK cabinet, the highest part of the control panel is about 36.5" - 38" off the ground depending on how the leg levelers are set.
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Paige had some comment about his latest cab being "the perfect height for either standing or sitting down", but I can't find the thread right now, and I darn sure can't remember what the measurement was with this Alzheimer's trying to butt into my head ::)
I know it doesn't help specifically, but mebbe it'll help in the end
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Ok.
I'm going to have to set aside some time to read through the 13 pages of this thread. I started at 1 and scanned odd numbered pages, and what I got out of this is:
1 very talented designer who indends to make an avant guarde cabinet, but built a house instead and has bent the lexan for his marquee before the cabinet is built.
is that really right? and it takes up 13 pages?
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Ok.
I'm going to have to set aside some time to read through the 13 pages of this thread.
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what I got out of this is:
1 very talented designer who indends to make an avant guarde cabinet, but built a house instead and has bent the lexan for his marquee before the cabinet is built.
is that really right? and it takes up 13 pages?
He also authors coin designs, artwork for every project under the sun besides his, and it's been rumored that he has a hand in the creation/sale/shipping of the BYOAC hat.
I think that last one is like Bigfoot. Something just to take the attention off of what's really going on, and not actually true ;)
/me looks for a way to change his name to "Stingray" for this post ;D
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Hehe-
Thanks for the props DK.
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:-\ uh...props....yeah, that's the ticket! ;)
Here, from Paige's Super Sprint project (finally found it)
Also I must note, the control panel on this machine is at a magical height where it can be played either standing, or sitting in a chair. Awesome, awesome, awesome.
35" off the ground. Usable standing or from chairs.
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The most comfy CP I have played to date is a typical Williams cabinet. My Moon Patrol left for the 1984 arcade yesterday :'( but I can measure my Bubbles tomorrow while at the storage and I'll post back. If anyone else has one, please post measurements.
I had a Jamma cabinet that had a lower height, but the angle was the problem. I have carpal problems in my right hand so I take these heights and angles quite seriously.
I could barely play 2 games on the jamma cab. I could play for hours on the Moon Patrol.
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BTW nice compisite of the machine.
Did you use light probe data and HDRI or did you light it yourself?
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I had a Jamma cabinet that had a lower height, but the angle was the problem. I have carpal problems in my right hand so I take these heights and angles quite seriously.
I could barely play 2 games on the jamma cab. I could play for hours on the Moon Patrol.
At the movie theater last night there was a Dynamo cab conversion. The height and angle of the CP made it unbearable. It was a little too low with a big drop from top to bottom.
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Mark70 - Thanks :) Basic lighting was done in Lightwave. I have yet to learn how to light anything worth a damn in 3D, so I retreated to Photoshop for the compositing. The spill around the marquee was 2D matting and paint. ;) The only reason I learned Lightwave was to model my cabinet so I haven't really lifted the hood on the app beyond what I've needed to visualize my project.
MarkRVP and Nostrebor - Man I'm glad you posted this info. I pretty much figured any production game CP height would work, but it seems I'm wrong. I put my original CP on a 35" countertop and it felt just the tiniest bit too high. Since it's 4" thick (tall?) I'm thinking anything between 37" and 39" would be ideal for me. I don't want to feel as though I'm reaching downwards at all.
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OK...
Williams cabinet is 42" at the front edge and slopes "up" about 1/2" in 9". The front edge has a 1 1/2" radius (roughly). Effortless play for hours.
My Tank Batallion cabinet is dead flat and at 36" up. Haven't played on this one yet.
Star Fighter is at 37" and slopes "up" 1" front to back. Carpal no likey, but not a sbad as the dynamo cabinet I had.
I will be rasing the Tank Batallion to match the Bubbles (New Base).
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I like to think construction has been going on for a while now, but I realize many people don't consider all the plastic bending and polishing to be real construction at all. *sigh*
Well, for those waiting for the sawdust - here it comes. After the next page or two your internet connection is gonna be sore in the morning. ;)
This weekend I got the hardwood for the sides, thanks entirely to my dad for generously coming through to help my chronically underfunded project. And it's not the 3/4" stock I had originally planned on using for the sides, but 8/4 (2" thick) solid cherry. WHOOOO HA!!!! This means the sides will have the same sort of oversized charicature-like feel I've been shooting for on the rest of the cabinet's design. Props to my dad. ;D
Here's the wood straight from the mill
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Thick stuff.
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I didn't get any pics of the face surfacing on the jointer, but here I am collecting the sawdust that resulted. Literally "collecting" it for... I dunno... a shadowbox or something. ::) :P
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I did manage a bunch of photos of the rest of the surfacing. This is the wood going through the wide belt sander to surface the other face. Would've used the planer but the blades must've been dull since it was taking forever and burning the stock.
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that doesn't look like 70 percent... :-\
although it's a good thing you actually started working on some wood that might or might not be a part of a later cabinet called Mission Control.
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Keep your pants on Flinkly ;) I'm still at work (day job) and this post is gonna take a while.
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Are we seriously using 8/4 Cherry for the sides?
:o :o :o
WOW
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Ohhhhh yeaaaaah. 8)
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What does it mean that we are all sitting here watching Pixel post this in real time?
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Not only am I this boring, but today is my B-Day.
Sad. :-\
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Ooops. Here's the before and after. And Mark... for the website I had hoped to setup some sort of realtime video feed for the unveiling. Hehehehee.
Nostrebor - could be worse.... some (names witheld to protect the innocent) BYOACers have been known to be online during their honeymoons
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<cough>Zakk<cough/>
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Unexpected mishap #1- Jointer stopped working. My dad brazenly suggested opening up the beast to see what might have gone wrong. I never would have done that myself.
Turns out the setup and delivery guys who... errr... set it up originally had reversed the motor mounting brackets. This meant they had to mount the drive wheel half way off the very end of the motor's arbor. Yikes. Well the set screw loosened over time and the wheel chose my project to come flying off with an ominous ker-thunk.
This is me swapping the motor mount brackets to allow the whole assembly to be aligned without placing the wheel on the bleeding edge. Total downtime: approx 1/2 hour.
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That cab is gonna weigh 1250 lbs.
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Switching gears... here the attachment of the paper master template (shown earlier in the thread) to the MDF sheet which will be the actual trimming template for the sides.
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What's worse...I even cheacked this infuriating thread on the now infamous "honeymoon night"
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Heh- didn't mean to call you out Zakk. ;) I'd have done the same if I'dve had internet access.
After Mark and Nostrebor's super valuable feedback on CP height I decided to add a few inches to the base. Spent a while rummaging through the kitchen and found a serving plate to add to the curve seamlessly. Reminded me of when I was a kid and I'd use my dad's variously sized coffee mugs as circle stencils.
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Cutting the template out of MDF
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The template cutout with a guide for the straight cut at the base.
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The final template. It was almost surreal to walk around this in "real" 3D. After having manipulated this shape in virtual space for soooooo long, and being so familiar with all it's dimensions from various perspectives, it's hard to describe the satisfaction of cutting it into reality and looking up at it.
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....and.....
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Is that 37" performax sander your Dad's?
*nostrebor drools*
template looking good!
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Yep! Wish it were mine. Sadly, none of this stuff is... other than the cherry :P
More surfacing/squaring up stock....
Maybe I suck. But my dad and I couldn't get 2" thick 7 foot+ boards to edge joint perfectly on the jointer. Same for the (kick ass) tablesaw. So DK this one's for you. This is our homemade edge jointing jig... later replaced with a straight board (after the aluminum started to flex). We ran a router with a 2" (yes they make them) straight bit along the guide to square up/joint the edge. The bit was a champ. We accidentally routed into the table saw deck twice when the assembly shifted inward. It actually cut a smooth semicircle into the (iron?) table and didn't break or chip. The subsequent cuts were all as smooth as the first. Now THAT's a tool!
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Nostrebor (or anyone else who knows) what's your tolerance for spacing between edges of boards in a panel prior to closing them up with clamps. We obsessed over this but only in one case got a joint that was absolutely flush without pressing them together. Everything closed beautifully when clamped, but I couldn't remember how much space is acceptable (if any :-[) seems like on a panel this big you'd have to have at least SOME gapping (I'm talking like 1/32 or smaller). Help anyone?
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The template on the boards for layout before gluing.
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Are the boards glued up yet? Otherwise I am confused as to why you'd be laying it out yet....
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Hehe.... yep. Errr I mean, no, not in these pics. But by the end of the thread, yes.
Here's the final panel pre-gluing. Like Santoro said... it's gonna weigh a ton.
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To conserve wood and keep from having to surface too much more I traced out some of the smaller details to find unused areas of the panel they might be cut from. The board seen beneath them in the first was needed for the second side panel.
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Nostrebor (or anyone else who knows) what's your tolerance for spacing between edges of boards in a panel prior to closing them up with clamps. We obsessed over this but only in one case got a joint that was absolutely flush without pressing them together. Everything closed beautifully when clamped, but I couldn't remember how much space is acceptable (if any :-[) seems like on a panel this big you'd have to have at least SOME gapping (I'm talking like 1/32 or smaller). Help anyone?
7' long boards... I would expect the thickness of 2 playing cards in places prior to clamping. It is almost impossible to get glue joints on 7' stock w/o production level equipment. Good clamps and good glue will take care of that for you.
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THATS WHAT I NEEDED TO HEAR!! Man, nostrebor, I should've had your phone number! ;D
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I'm too lazy to read back in the thread, so...
Are you using t-molding anywhere on this cabinet? Are you having 8/4 exposed edges on your side panels? How are you goint to treat the edges if left exposed?
BTW, that is some fine looking Cherry! I see almost no sapwood, and straight grain. You should give your Dad a hug or something.
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My first time using a bisquit jointer. I've splined joints but never bisquited. Talk about simple!!! This little thing is a dream come true. Super handy and kept these long ass boards aligned for the glue up with no glue float (or whatever it's official term is).
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Maybe I suck. But my dad and I couldn't get 2" thick 7 foot+ boards to edge joint perfectly on the jointer. Same for the (kick ass) tablesaw. So DK this one's for you. This is our homemade edge jointing jig... later replaced with a straight board (after the aluminum started to flex).
;D
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=32923.0;id=19127;image)
Are you sure that big-ass straight bit wasn't a shaper bit? ;)
If a piece of notebook paper fits your gap, you're good. Another tip is to make it dished slightly to allow for possible movement to NOT eff up your nice boards. If you can make the middle of your joint the widest point of your gap, glue and clamps should take care of the rest, and you've got the added benefit of when the wood expands and contracts with seasonal changes, the edges won't split on you.
If you know what a caul is (and I'm betting SOMEONE you know sure as heck does, given all the woodworking apparatus), what I'm trying to explain is that exact shape on both.....crap, lemme know if you're understanding what I'm saying. If not, I'll photoshop a quick pic.
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Are the boards glued up yet? Otherwise I am confused as to why you'd be laying it out yet....
The MDF is going to be used as a template. That's my understanding, at least.
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I'm too lazy to read back in the thread
Heh me too
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DK- yeah we made sure any gap was centered for (I think it's called) a spring joint. No gaps at edges. I just couldn't remember from college woodshop if a "spring joint" refered to a bad thing or not. ::)
We did use a caul at one point. The bisquits took care of most of the alignment.
Great post DK. This feedback is tremendously helpful and reassuring.
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Are the boards glued up yet? Otherwise I am confused as to why you'd be laying it out yet....
The MDF is going to be used as a template. That's my understanding, at least.
I was looking at the photo of the MDF template laying on the boards, but Mitch hadn't mentioned glue-up yet.
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DK = another person whose phone # I wish I had available at the time.
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I was looking at the photo of the MDF template laying on the boards, but Mitch hadn't mentioned glue-up yet.
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*tries to think of a witty Monty Python quote about clamps and torture.... gives up*
Here is the first half of the first side glued up and clamped. Neither of us had ever joined up a panel of this size.... effectively we are making two large sized dining room tables. So... baby steps. One half at a time.
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First half of one side complete. This end is a bit uneven, as I'm guessing the widebelt sander isn't a perfect replacement for a planer when working on stock this long. We'll take out the 1/16" or so top and bottom before joining it to the other half.
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It was bugging me not to be able to 'splain what I was talking about, and you pegged the term. Here's a pic, exaggerated to demonstrate what I was talking about. It'd be heartbreaking to find out a year or so down the road that seasonal changes started your cab sides splitting. :'(
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/me screams upstairs
MAAAAAAAAAA!
*deep breath*
MAAAAAAAA!
C'MERE AND LOOKIT WHAT HE'S DOING! C'MON QUICK!
she ain't comin?
THROW DOWN SOME MONEY! THE ICE CREAM MAN IS COMIN'!
;) I feel like I SHOULD be calling my mom to come see this, though!
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The morning after.
Both halves of each side done. Template awaits final surfacing of subpanels and final glueup.
Like I said... 70% Sorry to leave it at this, but it's that blasted glue cure time before I can stress the panels again. Unfortunately that won't happen for a little while.
ARGH... road trip complete.
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For the love of VidKids, make sure you put that thing on the ground floor.
Lookin' good...
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Hehe... we live in a one story. Good thing too. I think I'll need piano movers to transport the thing. It will, however, be on massive casters (inset to be hidden) to make repositioning within the room easier.
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Certainly a different approach with the thickness of the wood and assembly. A question I don't know the answer to, with this much material is temperature expansion going to be an issue?
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Certainly a different approach with the thickness of the wood and assembly. A question I don't know the answer to, with this much material is temperature expansion going to be an issue?
Shouldn't be any worse than a dining table made from hardwood. Once it is placed in a climate controlled environment, it will have little chance to move anyway.
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Unless you are going to use a transparent stain finish why use real wood for the sides?
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Unless you are going to use a transparent stain finish why use real wood for the sides?
He is staining the wood a deep rich color.
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Its looking real good there PH. Good progress. :)
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Truly a work of art/scupture/fine furniture... certainly beyond an arcade cabinet.
...and here I am complaining about how many steps my puny particle board cabinet took. :-[
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Pipe clamps are cool.
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Unless you are going to use a transparent stain finish why use real wood for the sides?
He is staining the wood a deep rich color.
markrvp's quote immediately brings Ricardo Montalban to mind ;)
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markrvp's quote immediately brings Ricardo Montalban to mind ;)
Deet I meintion dee corinthian leather I'll be using?
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oooh oooh! Will it be RICH Corinthian leather!??!? 8)
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oooh oooh!
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/me makes note to never use marketing descriptions in BYOAC threads again
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Be more broad. If you use words in BYOAC threads, it will come back to haunt you.
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Certainly a different approach with the thickness of the wood and assembly. A question I don't know the answer to, with this much material is temperature expansion going to be an issue?
expansion and contraction are always an issue with wooden objects. It's why a window might stick (although with vinyl windows dominating, not so much of a problem anymore). Usually it's not a pressing concern, like nos mentioned, but to not account for it at all is to invite trouble.
One more reason why MDF is such a nice material for the projects we undertake. Movement in MDF/Plywood/OSB is pretty much nil due to the way the products are created.
If you have any wood doors in your house, check a few of the joints to see what I'm talking about, and what nos is explaining. It DOES happen, but with the right planning, its effect is minimized.
And the Chrysler Corrrrrrrrrr-do-ba wasn't this nicely appointed!
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Fear of twisting and cupping in the panel was actually one of the big reasons for going with 2" over 1"
The extra beefy thick sides are just icing on the design cake. ;D
I thought that Ricardo Montalban comment was so funny I put together a third mock ad.
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Now that's damn impressive. :o
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Especially when you consider that's really a picture of me standing next to my white 94 Mustang. ::)
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That picture would be much more accurate if you Photoshopped a pic of PaigeOliver over Ricardo.
I have it on good authority that Paige has hauled full size cabinets in a Lebaron vert.
Oh, and LOL at this pic.
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i guess if you include that ad, we'll consider the side panels 70 percent done.
by the way, awesome photoshop. only 37 more pages of BS to fill your coffee table book. and heck, if it's got ads like that, i'll buy one. then again, you'd have to finish your arcade cabinet first. :-\
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He better put in favorite quotes from this thread throughout it in margins. He should also print off a full reproduction of this thread.
Whoo Hoo 1200 posts!
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Has anyone else noticed the Terminator arm coming out of the tailpipe of the car in the shadow to the right of Rico?
Weird. ;D ;D
Edit: added some smileys so Flinky won't think I'm serious ;)
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i did, i just figured he was supposedly standing in front of a futuristic auto assembly plant, and that was a shadow from a car being assembled by a robotic arm....like it was welding on it or something.
i don't think it's supposed to be some obscure reference to the terminator. was that movie even out yet? i only ask since i'm not familiar with the lebaron's heritage.
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Just got my latest box of goodies from Happ.
This one contained the trackball mounting plate and the industrial strength kiosk keyboard assembly. I'll be making a custom overlay (with labels beneath the function keys) and insetting the assembly in a cherry frame which will pull out from beneath the bow front of the CP. So the keyboard will be built in to its own custom panel, to keep the whole thing feeling like a production game. I wanted to avoid the.. "oooh it's a PC" remark when the keyboard tray slides out. This way it feels more like a kiosk or "game with a keyboard built in" :P :P
I imagine the keyboard will see a ton of use since I plan on making a browser available within the FE for a seemless game/internet transition. So it'll be our "always on" easy access to the internet. It'll also stream XM radio and serve as a juke. Anything I can do to make it more relevant for my wife increases the chance it will find a permanent home in the family room.
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NICE!... I love the integrated approach....
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Thanks Retro - sometimes I think I'm talking crazy talk and no one will care.
This is the space for the labels. I'll cut two holes in the plexi overlay - one for the function keys and one for the rest. The edges of the plexi will get the bullnosed trackball hole treatment. The overlay will be themed to the rest of the art and be sandwiched beneath the plexi. The labels will run under the plexi between the two sets of keys.
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have you considered, frosted/opaque letters for the overlay so you could feed it light from the side?
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Like that CAF panel! Man that'd be sweet. If not for the letters then maybe at least a design around the keyboard... hmmm
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sometimes I think I'm talking crazy talk and no one will care
Not crazy...
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Speaking of streamimg XM, have you checked out Xamp Desktop? (http://xampd.imomo.net/)
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Cool.. thanks Dave!
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Just musing aloud here.
Dunno who makes it, but it was used in Dream Machine '05....they make a keyboard with blank keys. No letters, numbers, NOTHING. What about picking up one of those, removing the casing from it, and setting the whole thing into a piece of cherry. Dunno if you need actual keyboard usage, or if you simply want to customize a few keys here and there, but you could make it so the top of the cherry slab is even with the keys, as if you're pushing IN each button, rather than having it like a keyboard. The blank keys would allow you to set up each button for whatever you need it for, and you could label them whatever you wanted, say a one-button macro for XM would have the button labeled (duh!) "XM".
Just seeing what sticks.
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What is this... how you say... Dream Machine??? Link?
There's also a keyboard in development that uses tiny lcds (oleds?) on the surface of each key. They can change to be application specific for games, graphic apps, video editing, etc.... That'd rock too.
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What is this... how you say... Dream Machine??? Link?
Couldn't give a link for it, but it's MaximumPC's Dream Machine they do each year. Here's a link for the keyboard, so you can see what I'm talking aboot. OLED's were what I first thought of, but I figured when they finally get to a decent price range, THEN you can swap it out, but for now....
Linky:
http://www.xoxide.com/das-keyboard.html (http://www.xoxide.com/das-keyboard.html)
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cool keyboard...maybe i'll get one of those for a future project. how do the keys feel? is it loud and do the keys have a large actuating force? also, what is the distance from the top of the keys to your mounting hole plate? will you have enough room to put cherry and plexiglass above the plate? you could always do the cherry below and the overlay and plexiglass above, but then you'd have to router for it.
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Thats cool... kinda reminds me of the Twilight Zone movie with the girl with no face.
Flink- The keyboard will get recessed into the cherry as will about 1/4 of the plexi to give the whole thing an inlaid feel.
Not sure if you were asking about the feel of my Happs keyboard or the DasKeyboard, but as for mine the keys are super clicky. Like an old IBM PC - almost exactly the same feel. Not a lot of force required.
Next update will be trackball moutning.
Between dropping the kids off at day care and leaving for work I marked out the location of the tball mounting plate, cut the hole for the trackball, drilled the holes for the bolts and then ran out of time right before routing the recession for the plate.
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Continuing the integrated input/output theme...
I just ordered these from Markertek. For peripheral connections... Firewire and USB panel mounts. These'd make great additions to a stand alone CP.. wish I'd known about them on my previous control panels.
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Whoa! I have been looking for someting jsut like those. Nice find.
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I don't think I can link directly to the item but go to markertek.com They're about $5 each and shipping for two (priority) is about $3.
The firewire mount is item NA1394-6-B (for the black one - no pic available)
The USB mount is item NAUSB-B (again for black)
For the natural metal finish leave off the -B from the item number.
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I love the design you are going for. I can't stand wood finishes, but then it aint my cab. :)
One thing I don't understand though, and skimming through all 15 pages here, maybe I missed the answer, but...
Are you building this thing to be played on the front lines of World War III?
Do Mac trucks regularly drive through your gaming area?
Will it be part of an airplane crash test?
In case the question isn't obvious...
Why in the world are you making THAT dang surdy?
Seems like it could have been finished ages ago had you just gone with some good quality plywood.
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Why in the world are you making THAT dang surdy?
Well the thickness of the sides isn't really intended to add sturdiness. (Other than minimizing twisting and warping). It's more about the look/design. From the front plywood would have looked like plywood. In order to look like solid wood the edges had to be solid wood. That look was very important to me in this design.
Seems like it could have been finished ages ago had you just gone with some good quality plywood.
From the start I have wanted the cabinet to be an artistic, almost caricaturistic take on the arcade cabinets that awed me as a kid. My brother constantly criticizes me for not using MDF and laminate to make it authentic. My response to him is always that it's not about authenticity... it's about design... and recapturing the way I felt as a kid standing in front of something bigger than life... only this time it's something I've created.
When I was a kid my parents used to drag us kids down to my dad's professional meetings during the summer in Carmel. While it's since become a high brow yuppified art walk, back then it was a small town full of unusual craftsmen and artists. I'd tag along as my parents went into stained glass and hand made furntiture studios and I remember being impressed with the skill of the woodworkers. They'd often build unusual takes on common things... a lamp shaped like an oak tree or a coffee table carved from an old redwood burl. The kind of stuff you'd never see mass produced. Everything was a "one off" expression of how the artist saw the piece. These people could easily have gone to the local hardware store to buy 3" dowels or 2x4's but that would have completely defeated the purpose of why they were building to begin with.
It's not to invalidate other kinds of projects, it's just that my goals and interest in doing this are different. My next cabinet will likely be black laminate with chrome t-moulding as my interest in that project is different as well.
Here are a few pictures of the types of projects I saw as a kid that left an impression on me. These are pulled from Fine Woodworking magazine. Unfortunately I couldn't find the most appropriate one, a chest of drawers shaped like the lamp below.
Spend some time in the readers gallery in Fine Woodworking and I think the plywood question will answer itself. An archive of the magazine's readers gallery is at: http://www.taunton.com/finewoodworking/pages/fw_readshow_home.asp
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Oh, and yes... I do take the project too seriously. I'll be the first to admit it.
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Oh, and yes... I do take the project too seriously. I'll be the first to admit it.
Nothing wrong with having a passion.
Although I previously gave you some slacker-flack regarding the plethora of time to actually get started, I am very excited to see this thing start to take its shape.
Keep the pics coming man, it's obvious this community is watching closely and we are all pretty damn excited.
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I appreciate that BB.
Before my daughter was born my dad spent months making a cradle for her. He used the rosewood I had hoped to find for this project, and trimmed it in ebony. The rails are all mortise and tenon. The base of the bed, hidden beneath the cushion, is a joined up panel of rosewood. The knobs used to stop the cradle from swinging are hand carved from solid ebony.
He could have made it from plywood... he could have butt jointed the rails and he could have bought the knobs. But he didn't.
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And there is the explanation I failed to find in the 15 page skim. :)
I am very excited to see this project reach completion, as I am sure the time and care you are putting into it will no doubt show through greatly.
Until you posted those pictures of the artistically designed other items, I had failed to envision anything beyond just a wood grained arcade cab. I can now see more of the look you are going for, and wish you well on your way.
Of course I am now even more curious about the outcome, and wish I had decided not to enter this thread until it said 100% COMPLETE. ;D
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Show us the trackball!
Please :angel:
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And there is the explanation I failed to find in the 15 page skim. :)
:) :) :) :)
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Man...every time new pictures show up, I'm just amazed at this project.
Up until this point I had no idea you intended to use such sturdy and thick pieces of wood for the cab. Its definitely going to be unique for this board. Keep up the good progress!
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Not much unusual here. At least you can see the bow front of the CP. All controls have been countersunk. I notched the trackball plate in order to set the buttons closer and make room for the dedicated 4 way on the far left.
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What are the two buttons between the trackball and player 2 joystick?
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Bestest wood ever 8)
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What are the two buttons between the trackball and player 2 joystick?
"O" and "K".
;D
(My thanks go out to Mark for this perfect setup!)
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Whey you say "Walnut T-Molding" are you using faux wood plastic T-Molding or are you edging the CPO with real Walnut?
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first... like everyone, I follow very closely on this project (although I don't post much...)
to me, you are like finishing a dream machine that I will never have the resource and skill to finish.... (kinda like 1ups first rotating panel, but in a different way....)
now comes a question... (maybe its already answered in the previous pages but I missed...)
you're using double thickness titantium errr... I mean REAL wood... (not even ply !!) for the sides....
you went thru 8x what other people went thru in plexi to bend the marquee to shape
and now a particle board CP ????????
I mean, the cab will weight 3 tons, can withstand a direct nuclear attack, but if the CP got water spilled on it and soaked it, it'll expand, crumble, and turns into pieces ???????
Plz tell me this is just a sample board for try and fitting....
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first... like everyone, I follow very closely on this project (although I don't post much...)
to me, you are like finishing a dream machine that I will never have the resource and skill to finish.... (kinda like 1ups first rotating panel, but in a different way....)
now comes a question... (maybe its already answered in the previous pages but I missed...)
you're using double thickness titantium errr... I mean REAL wood... (not even ply !!) for the sides....
you went thru 8x what other people went thru in plexi to bend the marquee to shape
and now a particle board CP ????????
I mean, the cab will weight 3 tons, can withstand a direct nuclear attack, but if the CP got water spilled on it and soaked it, it'll expand, crumble, and turns into pieces ???????
Plz tell me this is just a sample board for try and fitting....
LOL
I was thinking the EXACT same thing.
Had my reply all typed and everything, only to be warned in red that you had beat me to it. :)
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Ya, I agree, you are going high end with everything else.
Get rid of the particle board, use MDF or plywood.
That particle board is going to be like cancer in your beautiful cab.
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It doesn't really matter what the cp panel is made from. It is not a visible part of the cabinet and to be honest I didn't give it more than about 10 seconds of thought at Home Depot. It's sealed beneath 1/4" Lexan and an overlay and trimmed with solid walnut. I guess moisture would be a concern if there were a way for it to get wet enough to cause a problem but I just don't see how that could happen.
In other words....
I'll be rebuilding it wednesday. ::) Only because you guys care so much. :angel:
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It doesn't really matter what the cp panel is made from.
Agreed.
I'm not sure I get what all the venom is about when it comes to pb... Any composite material, when saturated will loose its structural integrity... bottom line it does not matter.... If your cabinet is getting that wet your material is turning into a spitball you then have bigger problems...
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Oddly enough Retro.. MDF is the only composite I've actually had moisture issues with... ;) I left a 2 foot wide scrap outside and even without rain (overnight dew, actually) it curled up like a party horn.
I will say that MDF takes a waaaay cleaner cut than this stuff however. Kneivels CP's look gorgeous in the raw.
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I used a hefty amount of pb in my cabinet... but I did choose mdf for the panel.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=43594.0
It is very weird stuff... and it does route and cut way better... I especially like the curly-q's the forsner bits created. But holy cow... :o the dust is so pervasive! This was the first time I used it for anything.
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Whey you say "Walnut T-Molding" are you using faux wood plastic T-Molding or are you edging the CPO with real Walnut?
Solid walnut. Planed to as thick as I can make the bend across the bow front. I tested it at 3/16 and it works seamlessly so I would imagine 1/4" or so.
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What are the two buttons between the trackball and player 2 joystick?
The upper hole is for a spinner and the lower hole is a mouse button for use with the trackball.
EDIT: But I like nostrebors answer better. ;D
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Mitch:
I don't care so much about the particle board (although I think I would prefer to do it out of birch plywood), but I am concerned about how thick it is and how things are going to mount.
Please note - I know it doesn't matter what I think, but I want to share a couple of thoughts I've gathered from building my control panels.
First of all - is it your plan to have the overlay on top of the wood with the 1/4" plexi on top?
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I second this, I have cabs both ways, and the textured overlay feels way more authentic.
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From a moisture perspective, there is no benefit to using MDF over PB. Either will swell up profusely when introduced to H2O. I would not re-work the PB unit unless it had another flaw, or because you just like to make stuff.
You would not want to use real hardwood for this panel. Engineered material is flatter/more stable.
MDO would be ideal, but it is spendy.
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Surface mounted carriage bolts make baby jesus cry. :'(
On my previous panels I've recessed the bolts (flat head) into the joystick base by drilling away a small amount of plastic. I now have special coutersinking drill bits which make it even easier
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oooo forgot about that.
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I would not re-work the PB unit unless
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The bullnosed trackball recess is indeed sexy.
Heh
.... aaaand it matches the bullnosing (or at least will) on the minimarquee, nav panel, and optical drive slot. ::)
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What is MDO?
An MDF core with MAYBE an eigth inch overlay. I've seen the overlay be some REALLY nice cherry veneer, which would be the shiznit if you were going with a natural wood CP, and I've also seen it with laminate-looking stuff (it may have indeed been laminate, I didn't care much to investigate). It's a tad more expensive than MDF, but really easy to machine, flat as.....a board ;) , and nice to finish.
Menards is the only place I've seen it in my area, but right now, we've ONLY got Menard's and Home Depot. In a few months, we're getting a Lowes, and it's been several years since I had a Lowes to go into.
Go with plywood. IMO, you'll find the walnut easier to attach to the ply than the particle board. If you still want to go with that, something that MAY make the particle board machine somewhat better is to get some generic masking tape and tape BOTH sides of the cut, if possible. Particle board in and of itself isn't a bad material to use for a cab, it just "flakes" so much when machining it, your edges won't be as crisp and nice as I'm thinking you want them to be.
I've been contemplating picking up some edge-banding router bits for just this purpose with plywood. I'll see if I can find 'em and link 'em, otherwise, you could do a nice little dovetail or t-joint or something equally esoteric that'll have us "ooh-ing" and "ahh-ing" at your madd skeelz ;)
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Okay, found a few options for you, and the OVER A HUNDRED BUCKS SET :o :o is what I was speaking of, but I KNOW there's a set out there that does a "V" groove and matching edge that aren't that expensive. I also found a few other things, tongue and groove bit perhaps, and one other thing that I had always seen and thought about buying....and you simply HAVE to buy it.....I'll add that next.
A few options, all can be found at Rockler:
Tongue and groove
(http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/92134-is.jpg)
Finger joint
(http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/61886-is.jpg)
Burgess Edge (the Big Daddy)
(http://images.rockler.com/Rockler/images/26018-lg.jpg)
I don't have a link for the "V" groove/edge bit, but it's identical to the Burgess Edge bit in principal, and I KNOW it's cheaper.
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And finally....the thing I pondered....with as much time, effort, and planning as you've put into your masterpiece, I am letting whoever wants to have a BYOAC group meetup know in advance that if you DON'T get one of these, I'll be heading to California to personally kick you square in your ass ;) Being the ringleader of the meetup idea, I get first dibs, and everyone else can get in line behind me. I am also open to the idea of forcing you to lick the road from your house to the local hardware store while we each take turns wearing our legs out on your backside. ;) I may have to start a separate poll for this. We'll see how receptive you are to this:
A personalized branding iron to finish off and "sign" your cab when done.
(http://images.rockler.com/Rockler/images/21634-01-500.jpg)
All in favor of giving Pixel a good bootin' let's plan on buying our plane tickets for January 1, 2007. Pixel should have just wrapped up finishing this thing the week prior to that date ;D
Ok, all in good fun, but seriously, you've GOT to give serious thought to signing it this way, and a woodburning iron just ISN'T going to be as classy. Now shoo. You've got some buying to do ;)
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I saw the v-groove thing in a woodworking mag one time. It was really sharp (no pun intended.) I can't find it with Google.
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It was REALLY bugging me.
All the above bits can be found at Rockler, this one I found at MLCS (www.mlcswoodworking.com).
This is the "V" bit, in two different versions
(http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/graphics3/edgeband.jpg)
$50 ::)
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Yeah that's the one. When I saw it used, the side inlay was exactly flush with the top edge, sort of like veneer.
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If it ain't, it's easy enough to clean up with a straight bit with bearing.
Now, back to the important stuff.....application of foot to rump! :police:
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I read that you're cutting two joystick holes, for a dedicated 4 way and an 8 way. Did you decide to do without Randy's GP-Wiz 49 way? I know some like the feel of the 4 way but having everything controlled by one joystick would do well for this CP, seeing how the artwork is so beautiful.
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Artwork still looks good with the added 4-way. I've got the 49-way setup, but I still prefer the Wico joys and I wouldn't try and talk you out of what you are doing. I think the 3 joysticks you are using is the best for gameplay.
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Pixel:
I fully respect the direction you are going with your CP. I just wanted to throw in my 2 cents.
I do have two more questions/suggestions that you can consider or toss.
1st is the size of the hole you drilled for your spinner. I've got both a Slikstik Tornado and an Oscar Push-Pull spinner and neither one requires a hole bigger than 3/8" in diameter. The whole spinner assembly mounts underneath and you only have to allow for the 1/4" shaft to stick through. Do you need the 1-1/8" hole for your spinner?
2nd - the hole for the trackball button to the left of the player two joystick bugs me. It seems out of place and out of balance with the rest of the control panel. Would you consider putting that button (and I really suggest two mouse buttons for "right-clicking in Windows") as the Player 1 button 1? You could put the second mouse button as player 1 button 2. This would require no remapping in MAME because if you enable mouse control for your MAME games, MAME automatically maps Player 1 button 1 to L-CTL AND MOUSE 0 and PLAYER 1 BUTTON 2 to L-ALT AND MOUSE 2. Paigeoliver maps the mouse buttons to Player 1 Start and Player 2 Start, but that eliminates using the Player 1 button as the SHIFT Key for the Ipac. That's why I say make the trackball buttons P1 buttons 1 & 2. You would get full "mouse functionality" without having to dedicate one special button for it.
Remember, your project impresses me more than any other I've seen and I'll be amazed at whatever direction you go, but these suggestions are just a couple of things to think about to keep the CP as clean and elegant as possible.
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This would require no remapping in MAME because if you enable mouse control for your MAME games, MAME automatically maps Player 1 button 1 to L-CTL AND MOUSE 0 and PLAYER 1 BUTTON 2 to L-ALT AND MOUSE 2.
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This is the Medium Density Overlay that I am talking about...
"MDO Plywood - The Paintable General Purpose Panel
Characteristics: An EXTERIOR type plywood with a weather-resistant resin overlay bonded to the wood by heat and pressure. This process fuses the molecules of the overlay with the fibres of the wood to form a bond as strong as the wood itself. MDO has all the advantages of regular plywood as well as additional properties. The overlay, which has 28% resin content, resists water, weather, wear and degradation. It has texture that paint can grip with remarkable tenacity. Paint finishes on MDO are up to three times more durable than the same finish applied to ordinary plywood."
I use quite a bit of this in my cabinet construction projects. It is fairly water resistant, and holds paint much better than MDF. I get scraps for free from work, and sometimes these scraps are 4'x6' ;)
One day I will build a cabinet with MDO sides to keep for myself.
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To answer the 49 way question... I had originally planned on using 4-8 way switchables (t stick plus) to keep the panel simple. After playing on an old 4 way leaf (at the barber shop when my son got his first haircut ;D) I decided I had to look into the original leafs. Reading through some of paigeoliver and noone=nba's posts about the leaf switch feel, I decided it was the only way to go. I've read good things about the 49 way but I'm really after the original feel the Wico's have.
Here's the latest artwork for the CP, revised for a 1" narrower width, the bow front, new spinner location, and the now superfluous mouse button. :-\
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I like the symmetry between the two sticks on the left and the stick and spinner positions on the right...
IMHO: symmetry good... :D
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<snip> and the now superfluous mouse button. :-\
Does this mean that it is going away?
For some strange reason this mystery button reminds me of the Friends episode with the 3rd nipple :-X
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Surface mounted carriage bolts make baby jesus cry. :'(
I'm surprised nobody else mentioned this yet...but that quote is hysterical!
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Sorry if I've missed this earlier in the thread, but what joystick handles are you planning to use? Your cab is too custom to use the standard Wico handles IMO.
Coleman
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Blue ball top shafts from Ponyboy. I considered some of the fancier stuff, SlikStik stainless or lighted balltops etc and I may use something like that on my next cab but for now the blue Wico balltops really appeal to me. :)
Oh, and Drew that branding iron looks like a must have. Especially the logo version.... now to find a spare $143.00 :P
nostrebor- ummmmm.... doesn't everybody have three? What am I missing here? ::)..... As for the button nah, probably not going away, it may be superfluous but not enough to justify a total do over as I'm totalling costs and time. I just have to keep reminding myself that certain elements can be reworked later on. I suppose there is a good chance I'll want to revise the entire CP once I've used it in context of the FE for a few months. :-\
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Do you already have your arcade computer up and running with Emulaxian?
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Had it then sold it. Was a Dell that didn't support AGP which I need for the ArcadeVGA.
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Are you near a Fry Electronics? Every Friday they have a sale and you can usually pick up a P4 3.2 Ghz processor and motherboard for around $200. They also have AMD Athlon 64 3200 motherboard & processor combos for around $169. Add 512 megs of Ram for $40 and a hard drive for $80, a power supply for $50, and a DVD-ROM drive for under $100 and you've got a massive computer system that will run almost all the games MAME fully supports.
Anyway, that's neither here nor there. I'm really looking forward to seeing Emulaxian up and running as it looks really cool, but I never really worked with it much.
I think the coolest thing about your cab is the Nav panel with all the emulator buttons.
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They are FINALLY opening a Fry's about 10 minutes away. AmericanDemon set me up with some great parts... everything I needed actually.... to build the PC. Big thanks again to him! But I'm sure I'll be hitting Fry's for more bells and whistles.
The nav panel will hopefully make the cab a bit more user friendly for people unfamiliar with the whole concept and FE. I'm hoping to make it as self explanatory as possible.. as though the whole thing could stand alone in an arcade with nobody around to walk a player through it's use.
Emulaxian can certainly be a bit complex to setup but it's getting easier and the flexibility and customizability is incredible. Once I get the whole thing completed I plan on adding 3D arcades to match the rest of the artwork/concept. I have sketches for a massive environment that will hopefully contain everything from a walkaround construction gallery to archives of scanned videogame magazines from my childhood. I probably shouldn't go into all of this here, since it is such a long way off and so likely to get laughed at but then... that hasn't stopped me so far ::)
Here are some of the concepts I've been working on for a Mission Control 3D Environment. Luckily these are all a ton easier to model and convert to W3D than my cab. :P
The Aerospace Museum (Populated with 3D models of vehicles from 80's sci fi/toys... Space 1999 Eagle, Tie Fighter, Colonial Viper, Starbird.. and so on). Most of these models are available online, otherwise creating them would be ridiculously impractical. Like building a cabinet out of sol... errrr... never mind.
The Hall of Gods and Heroes (Walkaround gallery of projects and builders that inpired me during development of Mission Control including but probably not limited to Roswell, Robotron3000, SuperCade, Jubei, PacMamea, and on...).
The Wingmen's Deck (Walkaround tribute to the really helpful people who have assisted in the project).
Library and Archives (Browseable scans of videogame magazines and ads I remember as a kid)
Construcion Gallery
Art and Concept Gallery (Concept and development sketches, diagrams, and early versions of artwork etc...)
The Arcade (a collection of.. errrr... duh).
I hope to incorporate some of this in to the eventual website...
But enough of all this vaporware. It's woodshop night tonight!
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WHOO HOO!! Markertek order came today. These panel mount firewire and usb connectors are waaaaay nicer than I had expected. Very "military spec." Almost look like OEM cigarette lighters from a Humvee. ::)
I'm really excited to have found these.
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Well, since you're online and hpefully I catch you in time, do you recall if they have something like that for S-video, or can you repost the link?
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Yes, they do Drew.
Go to http://www.markertek.com
Search for NEUTRIK and SWITCHCRAFT panel mounts. They have them in BNC, S-video, XLR, 1/4", whatever you want.
I used to order stuff from Markertek all the time when I had my video production company.
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WHOO HOO!! Markertek order came today. These panel mount firewire and usb connectors are waaaaay nicer than I had expected. Very "military spec." Almost look like OEM cigarette lighters from a Humvee. Roll Eyes
I'm really excited to have found these.
I'm not really sure what that is.... but if it is what I think it is. I'm very excited to. ^_^
Wait.... does that act as an usb extension cable... ugh I can never explain what I mean. Like if you have an usb exension cable you can connect it to this thing and plug it into your computer. Then use this to connect something to the top... I just sound stupid now... what exactly is this thing. :(
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I looked everywhere in Australia for a similar product to mount a USB extension socket (and failed).
Great find!
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WHOO HOO!! Markertek order came today. These panel mount firewire and usb connectors are waaaaay nicer than I had expected. Very "military spec." Almost look like OEM cigarette lighters from a Humvee. Roll Eyes
I'm really excited to have found these.
I'm not really sure what that is.... but if it is what I think it is. I'm very excited to. ^_^
Wait.... does that act as an usb extension cable... ugh I can never explain what I mean. Like if you have an usb exension cable you can connect it to this thing and plug it into your computer. Then use this to connect something to the top... I just sound stupid now... what exactly is this thing. :(
You're getting the idea. This is basically a way to put a USB or Firewire connector on the OUTSIDE of your cabinet. You cut a hole in your cabinet and screw the panel mount to it. Then you just plug your USB extension cable from the back of the panelmount to the USB jack on your computer. Then you can plug any USB device into the front of the panel mount like a joystick, hard drive, mouse, keyboard, etc.
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The control panel is nearly done. I've built up the front edge to 1.75" to accept a very cool piece of solid hardwood t-molding. I thought I was gonna have to shell out a ton of money on a huge shaper bit to cut the molding (to give it the super huge radius) but then stumbled on exactly what I was planning on cutting while at a hardwood dealer that specializes in flooring and crown moldings.
Turns out they use 2" wide solid wood t-molding to finish off wood floors where they join different surfaces. The profile is exactly that of the plastic t-molding used to edge arcade games..
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Here is the planer and the spline or stem half removed. Originally the stem stuck out about 1/4"
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....and spline gone. I was shocked at how easily the planer handled this. I would have expected the trim to rock back and forth on it's convex side, but once fed it didn't rock a milimeter so I was able to plane the back down perfectly smooth.
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Here's the front of the CP thickened up to accept the full surface of the molding. Not yet glued together.
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And here's how the whole thing will look (in it's raw form) when glued. To take this pic, I held the trim bent into place with my highly dextrous chimp like feet... not shown.
The walnut will look much richer and softer when finished. I may stain it to get it a bit darker, or maybe just oil and wax it. Regardless, in person it looks much better than these pics show... even my wife said "wow.. honey that's nice wood." :o Which of course made me laugh so hard I almost dropped the panel as she kept saying "What?... What?"
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Shoulda told her:
"You bring out the best in me honey!"
"You should see it in the morning!"
"What, you thought that was just a roll of quarters in my pocket?"
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Wow Pixel.
That's some nice wood!
You knew this one was coming going to occur ;D
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I just went back to the first post on this thread.
November 8, 2003-November 8, 2005
(and counting)
Happy Second Birthday
(belated)
Mission Control Project Thread!
When this thread was started:
- Mame was still in the .70's (.72?)
- We still thought there were WMD's in Iraq.
- You could advertise a MAME cab on Ebay without getting sued.
- HDTV was still in it's first year of availability and HDTV sets cost over $10k
Ahh.. the days of yester year when projects only seemed to take a few months. :D
What else has happened since
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Hehe. *switches to Homer voice* It's funny because it's true.
I'm currently up at my family's house working in my dad's shop trying my best to finish this beast before too many more milestones are passed. Depending on how the rest of the evening goes (finally cutting out the sides), I should have pics of the finished sides later tonight.
I got my CP and illuminated button artwork from Mamemarquees and was hoping to have pics of the finished CP ready for tonight as well. In fact, I was hoping to launch the website this weekend. But the sides have been the typical unexpected amount of work so I'm behind on all that. Cool things are happening though! I have been absolutely blown away by the quality of mamemarquees printing. The CP and buttons are gonna look unbelievable. Scott at mamemarquees sleep deprived himself splitting hairs on color calibration and the results are stunning. HIGHLY HIGHLY recommended. More on all that later.
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I should have pics of the finished sides later tonight.
You're such a tease! ;)
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Still routering this morning
Pics by end of day... gotta travel home.
Hehe teeease
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Here's the final glueup of the side panel. Basically the two smaller panels built last trip joined into one.
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Big side panel trimmed to nearly template size with the template screwed in place for easy routering. First pass with router complete.
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It's so thick I we had to take a pass from each face to trim it. Once with a top bearing trim bit and once with a bottom bearing bit.
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And the finished side. One of two but the second still needs cleanup with the router.
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oh man... this cabinet is gonna look awesome. i dont think your rendered pics from 17 pages ago are gonna do it justice. cant wait to see more. :)
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I'm guessing it's a visual thing or something - did you purposefully cut your template smaller to account for the bearing, or is that 1/2 inch of additional material to be sanded down?
I'm guessing you used a pattern bit instead of a flush-trim bit, but what made you decide on that?
Oh, and since I haven't seen Paige around in ages, I've got to add this for him: With the back of that cab like that, it'll be hard to move ;)
Me: Not to mention the brazilian pounds it'll weigh ::)
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Progress is really starting to pick up. So far everything looks great!
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It looks great! Now is the time when you start to get really excited.
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Oh, and since I haven't seen Paige around in ages, I've got to add this for him: With the back of that cab like that, it'll be hard to move ;)
I'll bet even Paige would understand the need for, and approve of the shape in this case. :)
Pixel, so you are gonna spraypaint the sides black, right? ;D
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First of all I cant believe Im finally seeing the side panels.
Second of all..
This is going to be one sweet arcade machine
Its nice to see you doing everything the right way. My first cab I built I was so excited to just get it done It was sloppy, it looked good but I wish I would have taken my time and thought everything out.
Keep it up.
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did you purposefully cut your template smaller to account for the bearing, or is that 1/2 inch of additional material to be sanded down?
I should have explained that pic better.
The top most layer is the template. Beneath it is the side panel to be trimmed. This image shows the result of the first pass of the router with the top bearing following the template and trimming the side panel flush. Because the bit wasn't long enough it cut just under halfway down the edge. To trim the remaining, we flipped the entire panel (with the template still attached) to the other face and routed again, this time with a bottom bearing bit.
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Awesome... Beetlejuice Beetlejuice Beetlejuice!
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More gratuitous shots. Super low angle followed by close up showing super thickness.
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Unless someone decides to form a cabinet out of cement or carve it from solid steel, I think you're going to have the heaviest cabinet around.
But its going to be damn beautiful, thats for sure.
Great job on the sides, looking forward to seeing everything mocked up (and completed!) soon.
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:o :o :o :o
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Awesome... Beetlejuice Beetlejuice Beetlejuice!
I never saw Beetlejuice but I'm guessing this is related to the same thing as Zapper's Tim Burton comment. Please enlighten me. :-\
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Thats funny I did not know somebody had already commented on the Burton-esque style of your cabinet...
When I saw the pic of the side... it just struck me as to how non-linear it is... hence why it seemed to me as something that belonged in a Tim Burton film... lots of curves almost winged...
It is really gutsy and wild... like Burton... only without the aspect. ;D
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it just struck me as to how non-linear it is... hence why it seemed to me as something that belonged in a Tim Burton film...
Ahhhhhh, gotcha!
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As I'm preparing the website for launch I got thinking it would be helpful to know what other people would like to see.
So far I'm planning
A "blog-like" construction journal with pics
A finished gallery showing all the cabs details
An artwork section
An FE section to show the interface/skin
A section to thank people involved in the project
An R+D section to show the design process and evolution from embarassingly contorted bad napkin sketches to final 3D files
A links section for all the helpful stuff I've stumbled upon over the years
A store section for plans, art etc. Though I think it'd all be free. Unless I offer prebent 3 sided marquees for sale. ::)
Any other ideas?
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Any other ideas?
Hot girls in bikinis standing next to the cab, just like they do for car magazines? ;)
(...silently awaits the joystick jokes to follow...)
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Any other ideas?
Yeah. Make the blog a perpetual "Under construction" site. Put a "Countdown to completion" clock that constantly resets every day. Lastly, drop the finished gallery. Don't EVER put up a fully completed pic of the cab....it'd only take away from the experience
;D ;D ;D ;D
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No mockup this time on the button. This shows the artwork from Mamemarquees installed and backlit on one of the large navigation buttons.
I'm not at all happy with the almost amber color of the tungsten "white" stock lamp that Happ ships with these buttons. So I guess I'm gonna have to moonlight some more and but the white wedge LEDs they offer.
You can't really see the yellowness of the lamp in these images but it is very present in person. I'm also hoping the LEDs will be brighter, although I am happy with how much illumination I'm actually getting as is.
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On an unrelated note, I decided to redrill the CP in MDF. I was bothered by the blow out I had on the bottom of the particle board and think that the thing will look a whole lot nicer in MDF. In realizing that I may be raising the hood on the CP frequently to show people how it works, I really couldn't bear showing the blown out surface of the particle board that looks more like a lunar landscape than a control panel.
So thats getting redone. No big deal time wise. But when I was test fitting the plastic over it with the artwork in place I noticed that for all the polishing I had done on the lexan it was STILL hazy. In fact the haze extends far beyond the trackball bullnose since I had feathered out the sanding/buffing. Turns out you don't see it NEARLY as much with the milky white backing film on, but once removed it is blatantly visible at any angle other than head on. ARGH! I guess Lexan doesn't take a polish like acrylic. Must be too soft. Any advice to fix this would be MUUUUUCH appreciated. If, as I suspect, it's not gonna get any better I'm gonna have to redrill that as well.
All this at a time when I tough I was a couple of hours away from a finished CP. >:( Seems the biggest problem with this project is that as it grows (and becomes more expensive) I can tolerate fewer and fewer imprefections. I keep thinking "I've come this far..." or "I've already spent so much..." that I can't settle for anything that's really gonna bug me long term.
Soooooo...... looks like I'll be salvaging a piece of acrylic from my marquee bending graveyard. Bummer is that the only stuff wide enough is 3/16" thick so the bullnose won't be quite as deep. Sigh.
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I'm not at all happy with the almost amber color of the tungsten "white" stock lamp that Happ ships with these buttons. So I guess I'm gonna have to moonlight some more and but the white wedge LEDs they offer.
What about checking that "All you could possibly need for LED's" site that's constantly recommended around here? I KNOW when I checked that site out, they had replacement LED's for all kinds of stuff. I bet they also have some nicer "Ice white" led's than Happs. Sometimes the white isn't "white", and I bet they're cheaper than Happs too.
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What've you used to polish it? Was it hazy from the start, or how'd it get that way in the first place? I've used Meguiar's Scratch-X on some CD's and my cell phone's outer display with excellent success for "removing" scratches, but I dunno why your lexan would be hazy in the first place.
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The button lights are 12v and it appears you are only using 9v? That would make the light output warmer (just like dimming tungsten lights). Try 12v. That will make the output brighter and the light's color temperature should cool a bit.
I'm sure you know this, but tungsten lights (like in those buttons) have a color temperature of approximately 3200 degrees Kelvin. Light used for color matching is typically 5000 degrees Kelvin (a D50 fluorescent tube). If you end up getting LEDs, try getting something that is between 5000 - 6500 degrees Kelvin. Also, when lighting your marquee, use a Daylight balanced fluorescent tube. If you use the regular tubes that come in the shoplights or under-the-counter fixtures (at 4500 degrees Kelvin) your blue Marquee will appear purple.
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Redrilling the CP?
Are you going to get rid of the mouse button too or planning to leave it?
Once I discovered you could use mouse buttons for fire buutons I had to change my layout. In my opinion a cabinet looks a whole lot sleeker and "arcade like" when the mouse button is invisible.
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DK- I used a plastic polishing compound I got at the plastic store and buffed it using both an electric drill and dremel with polishing wheels. I think it's hazing up since the super super fine scratches from the polishing are too soft too buff out. I think they're just getting "buffed around" if that makes sense. :-\ I tried a polish similar to Scratch - X but no luck. ARGH!
Mark- Just connected it to the proper voltage and sure enough the color temp cools waaay down. I wasn't sure what voltage these were and had a 9v handy so I figured I'd try. Man I was sure off. :P
Brax- Well, it's part of the artwork now. I actually don't mind it so much so I'll probably leave it.
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Any other ideas?
A time line showing how long it has taken for this project to be completed - may only be handy for those with widescreen monitors though :)
Hoops
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I think some pithy introduction might be called for. The following post can only be apologised for!
The Seven Ages of Mission Control (with thanks to W Shakespeare!)
All the world's an arcade,
And all the men and women merely player1 and player 2;
They have their tokens and their quarters;
And one man in his time makes Mission Control,
His acts being seven ages. At first the design,
Sketched out on a piece of scrap A4;
Then the glorious mock-up, with its rendering
And shining reflective surface, creeping in development
Unwillingly to build. And then the research,
Sighing each time, with a woeful forum post
and yet more delay. Then a re-design,
Full of strange curves, and lit like the Aurora Borealis,
Jealous of cabs already built, unsure of his next step,
Seeking the ultimate curved marquee
Even with the derision of others. And then the builder,
Slow to get going, getting mdf primed,
With colours severe and angles carefully cut,
Full of circular saws and modern T-moulding;
And so he cuts the parts. The sixth age shifts
Into the glued and screwed cabinet carcass,
With edges finely sanded and coin door fixed on front;
His highest scores, well sav'd, a cabinet too wide
For his Happs Bezel; and his big manly subwoofer,
Turning again toward childish treble, bleeps
And explosions in his sound. Last scene of all,
That ends this strange eventful history,
Is second cabinet and mere oblivion;
Sans Jamma, sans tron joystick, sans steering wheel, sans everything
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Wow. I'm betting not many people have poetry written about their (as-yet uncompleted) cabinet ;D
Nice poem, great looking cab!! :)
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I just realized I'm the very first (non-pixelhugger) reply to this thread. Kinda feels special considering this King Kong-like thread that's developed. ;)
*points to the "I'm #1" button pinned to his chest!*
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...But when I was test fitting the plastic over it with the artwork in place I noticed that for all the polishing I had done on the lexan it was STILL hazy...
...I guess Lexan doesn't take a polish like acrylic. Must be too soft. Any advice to fix this would be MUUUUUCH appreciated. If, as I suspect, it's not gonna get any better I'm gonna have to redrill that as well...
...Soooooo...... looks like I'll be salvaging a piece of acrylic from my marquee bending graveyard. Bummer is that the only stuff wide enough is 3/16" thick so the bullnose won't be quite as deep. Sigh...
Lexan will not hand polish like acrylic, and will be much easier to scratch later anyway. I doubt that you will ever get the scratches out by hand polishing, to your satisfaction. So if your willing, lets do something risky with your CPO.
Before you trash the Lexan piece, but after you have exausted all other ideas and are ready to trash it, try this:
FLAME POLISHING
Set you torch that you were using for the bending experiment to a LOW heat flame. Start passing over the scratched area with the heat. Far away and fast at first, sneaking closer while looking for the scratches to "soften". This will be hard as hell to do without distorting the face of the Lexan (face polishing is the hardest). You are looking for the scratches to "melt" and then re-solidify into a smooth surface.
Practice on a Lexan scrap first. This takes the lightest of touch, and it is extremely easy to put too much heat in, resulting in bubbles and distortions. The bigger the torch, the harder it is, so use your wimpiest torch. I use a little cheap butane torch with a pencil tip for this, and it is still easy to screw up.
Flame polishing Lexan is a bit of a no-no, and difficult, but if you are goint to toss it anyway...
If you decide to make a new one from acrylic, PM me. Maybe you can make the next one without any buffing or polishing by hand, and avoid the "scratchies".
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Jealous of cabs already built, unsure of his next step,
Grammar Police! Grammar Police!
Should be Envious of cabs already built, as you can only be jealous of something you HAVE but you ENVY that which you do not have.
However, let me say, Brilliant Homage! And for that you may write this poem As You Like It.
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I was over at Target the other day looking at Christmas lights, and I noticed that they had a set of mini LED Christmas lights for $4.99.
They run off batteries and may have a possible usage by you or someone else.
They aren't located by all the Christmas lights but over by the extension cords, shingle clips, replacement bulbs area. Small silver box about 3" x 3". Comes all white or multicolored. Looks like you could hack them out easily enough if you'd like to go that route.
Attached is a pic I found of them.
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I tried the flame polishing, which worked for most of the scratched surface. Unfortunately I overheated a few areas and got some crackling on the surface.
So I've rebuilt the CP, acrylic for the top this time, with MDF for the panel. Tomorrow I'm hoping to finish it up with the trackball hole, bullnosing and polishing. If all goes well I'll get the trim on the bow front and be ready to install the art and wire it up.;
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So I've rebuilt the CP, acrylic for the top this time, with MDF for the panel. Tomorrow I'm hoping to finish it up with the trackball hole, bullnosing and polishing. If all goes well I'll get the trim on the bow front and be ready to install the art and wire it up.;
All I heard was "blah blah blah I have no pictures blah blah blah" ;)
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So I've rebuilt the CP, acrylic for the top this time, with MDF for the panel. Tomorrow I'm hoping to finish it up with the trackball hole, bullnosing and polishing. If all goes well I'll get the trim on the bow front and be ready to install the art and wire it up.;
All I heard was "blah blah blah I have no pictures blah blah blah" ;)
when I say lol. I mean this time I actually lol'd
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Bahaha
I actually just said the same thing to myself:
*scroll scroll scroll*
"Damnit, no new pics!"
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Did you say something about pictures? Of a control panel? That was supposed to be finished yesterday?
I guess I imagined that. ;D
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Oh yeeees. I should have pics up by this afternoon. I was jinxed by DK's post and when I setup my camera at the wood lab last night I realized that in my rush to get out the door I left my flash card at home. ARGH! So I made sure it was loaded when I headed BACK out the the high school at 6:30 this morning to remove the clamps from the trim. The lab could not have gone better. I had the day off yesterday so I was able to get nearly 4 hours in at the shop.
This was enough time to drill the trackball hole, bullnose it, route out the recession for the mounting plate, flush trim the panel and the plexi along 3 sides with a router and along the bow front with the disc sander. Then (with literally minutes to spare before the bell rang:police:) align, glue and clamp the trim along the bow front edge (This marks use #3 of a hand made jig for the project). I polished the bullnose this morning with a fantastic result, a big relief after yet another hard learned lesson in lexan. ::)
I still have to recess the joysticks and stain the trim before I can install the art and call the non-electronic portion completely done.
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As I said, no pics from the lab last night. For the most part it was just redo-ing the same stuff I did before to the lexan/particle board CP only this time in plexi/MDF.
Glue up is always nerve wracking for me. In this case it was particularly stressful since I was working against the class clock. I had to make sure that the trim contacted the radius of the front edge all the way across. So I clamped a little jig across the outside of the trim to allow me a flat surface to clamp against and to provide even pressure across the radius. I was expecting a difficult go at keeping the top of the trim perfectly flush with the top of the plexi and was thinking I'd have to place a bunch of cauls (or braces) along the top to keep the trim in place vertically. Luckily that wasn't necessary. There was zero glue float
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Clever.
What kind of glue?
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Here is the bullnose after sanding to 400grit. There are some router tracks here and there in the MDF as I made several passes to knock down some high spots. I'll sand those out. ::)
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And the result. These reflective things are really hard to capture in a picture (see token thread ;)) You can see how clear the edge polishes at the bottom of the hole in the second pic. There you are actually looking through the polished face. Clear as glass.
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What kind of glue?
Yellow. But in retrospect (and for the rest of the cabinet glue up) I'd use something slower setting. I just can't take the stress!
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But in retrospect (and for the rest of the cabinet glue up) I'd use something slower setting
Thats why I asked... when you said "run like mad" you made me curious.
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Well, it was run like mad for two reasons-
1. The class was ending and I was about to get locked out. :P
2. I wasn't sure how much setting could happen before it'd leave a film (or worse) on the plexi. After the polishing on the lexan I was really concerned about having to polish any large areas on the plexi. I just didn't know if semi-set glue could be removed.
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Oh yeeees. I should have pics up by this afternoon. I was jinxed by DK's post and when I setup my camera at the wood lab last night I realized that in my rush to get out the door I left my flash card at home. ARGH! So I made sure it was loaded when I headed BACK out the the high school at 6:30 this morning to remove the clamps from the trim. The lab could not have gone better. I had the day off yesterday so I was able to get nearly 4 hours in at the shop.
This was enough time to drill the trackball hole, bullnose it, route out the recession for the mounting plate, flush trim the panel and the plexi along 3 sides with a router and along the bow front with the disc sander. Then (with literally minutes to spare before the bell rang:police:) align, glue and clamp the trim along the bow front edge (This marks use #3 of a hand made jig for the project). I polished the bullnose this morning with a fantastic result, a big relief after yet another hard learned lesson in lexan. ::)
I still have to recess the joysticks and stain the trim before I can install the art and call the non-electronic portion completely done.
As I said, no pics from the lab last night. For the most part it was just redo-ing the same stuff I did before to the lexan/particle board CP only this time in plexi/MDF.
Glue up is always nerve wracking for me. In this case it was particularly stressful since I was working against the class clock. I had to make sure that the trim contacted the radius of the front edge all the way across. So I clamped a little jig across the outside of the trim to allow me a flat surface to clamp against and to provide even pressure across the radius. I was expecting a difficult go at keeping the top of the trim perfectly flush with the top of the plexi and was thinking I'd have to place a bunch of cauls (or braces) along the top to keep the trim in place vertically. Luckily that wasn't necessary. There was zero glue float or movement during clamping on the trim. I knew the glue would squeeze out around the plexi, but it was still horifying to watch it spread further than I had thought and begin to congeal. I was able to remove the plexi once the trim was firmly clamped and run like mad to wash it off before it set to the point of no return.
So in the pics below you can see the MDF panel and the walnut sandwiched between it and the jig. The front edge of the CP is about 1 3/4" thick with the plexi in place. (I built up the front edge with a piece of poplar to double the surface for the 2" wide trim to get glued to.
blah blah blah somehow DK is to blame blah blah blah but I suckered you into looking at no pictures again blah blah blah
You should have to run the gauntlet of all the viewers of this thread while we whip yer ass with wet noodles ;D
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What kind of glue?
Yellow. But in retrospect (and for the rest of the cabinet glue up) I'd use something slower setting. I just can't take the stress!
Titebond makes a slower-setting glue you could use. Something to keep in mind for better joints is to use that regular stuff (the stuff that sets up too fast for you) as a prep coat on any end grain. You'll essentially be using that glue to somewhat seal the end grain so when you finally fasten the two pieces together, that end grain won't wick away as much glue and possibly starve your joint. With miter joints, that's a REALLY important step, but if it's just plain butt joints, it's not as important, but still something you might want to think about. Kinda like glue primer.
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blah blah blah somehow DK is to blame blah blah blah but I suckered you into looking at no pictures again blah blah blah
OK this time I actually LOL'd. Quietly, since I'm still at work. But audibly.
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Are you just going with a clear finish on the whole thing, or a Danish oil or something? I can't seem to remember, and there's way too many pages to sort through.
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The walnut will get a dark stain to even out it's color and prevent lightening over time. It'll also help bring it closer to the super chocolate dark look I had hoped to go for with *coughs* ebony. It'll be topcoated with whatever I use to top the cherry, probably shellac or varnish. The cherry will get no stain.
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The cherry will get no stain.
Go with an amber shellac. That'll get that nice warm color right from jump. You might even like the walnut with only shellac. That coloring only looks uneven because there's no finish on it. Once you lay a finish on, even a coat of poly for instance, the whole look of walnut will change dramatically. You might like it with just straight shellac.
If you've got your mind set on the ebony look, I'd suggest a dye rather than a stain. It'll look "deeper" than a stain would once your finish is on.
Grab a scrap of walnut from somewhere and spend the time testing these things out. Unfortunately they don't just sell little cans of the crap you'll be using, but $30-40 spent to test out how things will look will be money well spent in the end, yes?
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Titebond makes a slower-setting glue you could use.
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If you've got your mind set on the ebony look, I'd suggest a dye rather than a stain.
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Titebond makes a slower-setting glue you could use.
I'll look for that.
It's the bottle with the green tip and label. I know there's blue, and red as well, but the green gives a longer open time.
I'm particularly concerned about timing during the final cab glue up. The only other "large" woodworking project I've done was a corner fish tank stand. Glue up on that was hectic enough. I'm concerned that with all the interior parts and the massive/heavy sides, that positioning and clamping is gonna be tough to do in 5 or 10 minutes. I'll probably have to place the sides on separate furniture dollys in order to pull them "easily" together during clamping. It's gonna be craaaaazy.
Something you might consider is using a biscuit cutter. I know you used one for other stuff like fastening some pieces together already, but for larger assemblies, I don't throw a biscuit in there for structural use, it's to help with alignment. Pre-glue a biscuit into one side to further help with final assembly. Mebbe invest in a glue bottle with a roller head to help you lay it out better too, or a few of those disposable chintzy metal-handled brushes
The "primer" coat of glue will help too. You'll have more open time with the regular glue because it won't be being wicked away as quickly. Test it out on some scrap. Prime one piece first and then throw glue on both test scraps. You'll find the glue doesn't seem to disappear as quickly.
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1. the glue up and the bull nose look great! It appears no flames were used... true? I really think that you will like the acrylic for your CPO in the long term. It is more difficult to scratch than Polycarbonate, and cheaper to replace if you do ;)
2. If you like working with Yellow woodworkers glue, but want more open time, use white elmers type glue. It is exactly the same glue as the yellow, without the accelerators that are in the yellow.
I like the white with MDF, because it is easy to clean, you can use alot to offset the super suction of MDF, and it stays open for quite a long time. Same rules apply to real woods, but you have even more time because the wood does not absorb it (typically) as fast as MDF.
3. Can you do a few "sub" glue ups? I glue my interior pieces into assemblies, and let them dry. Then to one side, let it dry. Then glue that assembly to the other side. If you are using dados, it is pretty easy to insure that all the pieces will go together square and snug. Just do a dry fit first.
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Don't use shelac. It gets damaged easily with moisture. I build furniture and restore antiques. I use a polymerized tung oil. (sutherland is the brand) It's a wipe on finish that you apply in coats and builds up to a very hard finish. Whatever you do don't use plastic (poly).
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Don't use shelac. It gets damaged easily with moisture. I build furniture and restore antiques. I use a polymerized tung oil. (sutherland is the brand) It's a wipe on finish that you apply in coats and builds up to a very hard finish. Whatever you do don't use plastic (poly).
What's in that oil finish that builds up? I've never seen the stuff, so I'm just going on regular tung oil, which that stuff definitely doesn't seem to be. And what's the price run on that stuff?
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Time for your weekly update.
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Drew,
Here's a link to the finish I was talking about.
http://www.sutherlandwelles.com/ptodir.htm
Nothing looks better on on wood, this really makes the grain pop. A french polish with shelac looks really nice but it won't have the durability that this does.
It's not cheap but nothing really good ever is.
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Top of the CP is complete. Just gotta wire it now. The printing was done by mamemarquees and is absolutely SPECTACULAR. I wish these pictures could do their printing justice. I've been struggling to get accurate images. Apparently mamemarquees printing is capable of a wider color gamut than my swanky digital camera. When I take pictures under overly warm tungsten light I get a pretty accurate hue to the blues, but the colors wash out and look milky. When I take pictures outside in the sunlight I get better saturation and contrast, but the blues look too cyan. So... just picture the blue values from the inside shots with the vibrant saturated look of the outdoor shots and you'll get a better idea of how it looks in person.
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That is one heck of a goodlooking CP. It looks absolutely great!! (sorry, I was looking for better words to describe my awe, but words fail me...oh well- you know what I mean)
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lookin very nice indeed! All startin to come together.
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And here's one for the coffee table book.
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That looks good, but I gotta ask. Is player 2 joy in the way of the spinner?
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When I take pictures under overly warm tungsten light I get a pretty accurate hue to the blues, but the colors wash out and look milky. When I take pictures outside in the sunlight I get better saturation and contrast, but the blues look too cyan. So... just picture the blue values from the inside shots with the vibrant saturated look of the outdoor shots and you'll get a better idea of how it looks in person.
Well that certainly clears everything up for me (http://www.stingraysmadness.com/EE/images/smiles/!drunk.gif)
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Top of the CP is complete. Just gotta wire it now. The printing was done by mamemarquees and is absolutely SPECTACULAR. I wish these pictures could do their printing justice.
Well, that seals the deal for me. MameMarquees it is. It does look great...
On a side note, what sticks are you using? At first I wasn't big on the ball-tops, but after seeing how they look on your CP, I might change my mind on this.
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That looks good, but I gotta ask.
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Well that certainly clears everything up for me (http://www.stingraysmadness.com/EE/images/smiles/!drunk.gif)
Hehehe. OK, translation- mamemarquees does a better job printing that my pictures can show.
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That looks good, but I gotta ask. Is player 2 joy in the way of the spinner?
No. Although if you were to use the spinner with your right hand I'm sure it would be.
So for spinner games you remap player 1 controls to the player 2 side?
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Well there's definitely going to be side swapping between players. I opted for only one 4 way. So 4 way games are played on P1 side and yeah, spinner games (basically Tempest) on the P2 side.
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Close up of the trackball bullnosing. Again, the plexi makes it hard to get a good picture. All the text and graphics are razor sharp and actually make the overlay look dimensional. As though the Mission Control text is floating above the surface.
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And a final gratuitous full frontal shot showing the bow front and super thick trim. I think the reflection from the white ceiling is causing the flat look to the artwork. Ah, well. You get the idea.
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Unbelievable. Thats awesome man. I am glad its starting to come together for ya!
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Well, that seals the deal for me.
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Oh,yeah... they were originally red ball tops. I bought the 3 (short) replacement shafts from Ponyboy (also highly recommended). Things of beauty!
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Definitely a beautiful looking CP. And MameMarquees should pay you some money, because I think you just earned them a few dozen customers ;)
Keep up the great work with the cab. It may go slowly, but you're definitely going to get a high quality piece of work when everything is said and done.
So...Can we vote this cabinet into the Hall of Fame before its actually completed? :)
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So...Can we vote this cabinet into the Hall of Fame before its actually completed? :)
No, we want to make sure he finishes it.
Pixel:
Looks great.
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That's some great looking work Pixel.
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So...Can we vote this cabinet into the Hall of Fame before its actually completed? :)
No, we want to make sure he finishes it.
Yeah, it's not unique to have an unfinished cab, therefore it doesn't qualify for the HoF yet, unless we're going for uniqueness based on number of other pictures in a cab thread ;) Ahhhh, Pixel, we keed, we keed!
Since you started we have seen the introduction of translucent microswitch buttons and LED controllers. Have you considered replacing the black player buttons with lighted blue translucents?
Good job Mark ::) That won't prolong progress on it, since clearly he won't build a custom jig to create a faceted lens for the LED's to create better light diffusion, or manufacture his own button or some such thing. Yeah, first you talk about making sure he completes it, then you throw a million-dollar challenge at him and triple-dog-dare him to try and resist it. :D
I think that's another reason we like this thread Pixel. Whether you are or aren't, you never say anything to make us think you're anything but a good sport about us gunnin' on you ;D Thanks for letting us all live vicariously through you, brudda!
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Since you started we have seen the introduction of translucent microswitch buttons and LED controllers.
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Looks beautiful Pixel.
BTW I bent some plexi on the weekend and have a new appreciation for your marquee jig/bending posts.
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I'm very interested in the LED controllers as well. I'd love to have a way for the FE to indicate whether a game is 4 way or 8 way. *looses self in thought*
What a great idea!!! :o
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That looks good, but I gotta ask.
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I'm taking this opportunity to invite myself over to try your cab out
if when it's done.
I'm also taking requests of what drink to spill on your CP. No shakes though. We want something to get in the innards ;)
If I were you, I'd get a BB pistol to shoot those kinds of knobs in the ass when you catch 'em ;D
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I think Pixel should install some type of self destruction mode. The machine will examine and analyse any spillage and then consciously make up its own mind to self detonate.
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*attempt to delete has failed*
I am very interested in visiting your website once it is up. I am particularly interested in the marquee, control panel art design portion.
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deleted (don't see a delete option in the modify page)
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I would like to buy the kit for this design/project.
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(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=13118.0;id=21882;image)
"Skill and practice bring back times past"
Am I close?
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I was wondering about that as well. It's a really cool touch, isn't it?
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Latin :o
Pixel, it looks fantastic.
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I was wondering about that as well. It's a really cool touch, isn't it?
Extremely cool touch. Of course, us arcade geeks are the only ones that'll notice it. :-\
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Hah! Found it on page 6...
"The art and science of remembering when."
Stupid latin. Too many words with multiple meanings.
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ars = art, skill, method, science, technique, craft, conduct
et = and
ratio = system, manner, method, procedure, theory, reason, judgement, consideration
revocandi = to call back, recover, refer, revoke
temporis = of time, short-lived or temporary
praeteriti = past, expressing or describing a past action or condition
Heh, my translation - "The art and system to recover a lost/previous time"
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I oh-so-want to pour beer all over that control panel ;)
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Actual translation: "I poke badgers with spoons."
Like you said Ed, too many words with multiple meanings.
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I would like to buy the kit for this design/project. Are there any authorized dealers? I would hate to have to purchase the kit and instructions off of some Ebay'er. Pixel, which dealer did you buy your mission control cabinet from?
or DID YOU ORDER IT DIRECTLY FROM MAME?
You have 485 posts; is this question serious?
If so, then sure, just go down to your local MAME outlet. Every major city has one. They should even assemble it for you for a small fee. If your city doesn't have a local MAME outlet, just drive to then nearest state capital. They all have one. Don't check the phone book or anything first, don't worry, it will be there.
Mark70:
Timoe is poking fun at a question a newbie asked over in the Main Forum. The newbie asked if he should build his own cabinet or order it directly from MAME.
Please delete your post and I'll delete this one so as not to muck up Pixel's thread.
Too late. I've now quoted all the drivel associated with it so as to make Pixel's thread a miniature example of how everything BUT work on his cab has only made us want to add our own muck.
We are muckers, the mighty mighty muckers.
I oh-so-want to pour beer all over that control panel ;)
I'll race you ;D
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You win ;)
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This is looking awesome.
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this control panel is a beauty well done .....
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Man Pix, that is beautiful. I'm really diggin the bullnosed and
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My 6 1/2 foot+ twins arrived this weekend as my dad was able to get away and haul them down my way on a road trip. We had to rent an Excursion since they wouldn't fit in his car.
Yesterday we trimmed the second side to it's finished shape. I couldn't resist propping the panels up to get a better idea of how it'll all look when done. This was probably not the smartest thing to do since I couldn't hold them very firmly in place, but luckily I was able to get a few pics without any catastrophes. So the images below show the sides placed within about a 1/2" of their final positions width wise. I'm not sure about the exact angle of their pitch vertically but it should be pretty close (the bottoms of the sides are set a few inches closer to each other than the tops in the final design.) While it looks as though the cab has been assembled in these pics, these are just balanced in place... nothing is holding them there, none of the interior structure has been made yet.
Spidermonkey- you've got me thinking about those dust washers now..... thanks for the kind words.
Arcade and Jav - :)
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You must be so excited... that is just beautiful... totally exciting just to look at... not to mention how it will be when it will be up and running!
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That CP is spectacular... though, gotta say, us left handed spinner game fans are going to be a bit wonked.
I'm probably the only one, though. I'm like Tigger.
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"I'm like Tigger."
You bounce around and have a speech impediment?
PH, how much do the sides weigh (if you had to take a wild guess)???
All of a sudden, my lame black cab doesn't look so cool. :)
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"I'm like Tigger."
You bounce around and have a speech impediment?
From memory:
The wonderful thing about Tiggers
Is Tiggers are wonderful things
Their tops are made out of rubber
Their bottoms are made out of springs
They're bouncy flouncy trouncy pouncy
fun fun fun fun fun
but maybe the most wonderful thing about Tiggers is I'm the only one
IIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIIII'm the only one
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Those sides look gorgeous! How much do you have in this baby? My guess is the sides weigh 110 ponds each.
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I was gonna say 150lbs... but then thats a wild guess.
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I notice that you have your can of Kilz sitting there. Be sure to post some pictures of those sides once you get them primed :P
I will state once again that you owe your Dad a big hug for donating all that Cherry. It is simply fantastic. *When* your project is complete, you should submit it to a couple of the mainstream woodworking magazines. It is a shoe-in for publication in WOOD or FWW.
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HAH!! You blew my cover nostrebor. ;) I have been pouring over the readers gallery in FineWoodworking for MANY issues now, trying to better my chances of getting this profiled. I am thrilled you think that may not have been hopeless dreaming!! I haven't said anything until now cause I didn't want anyone beating me to it.... or laughing at me. ::) I did mention it to my dad a while back but I didn't get the impression he thought it'd get in. Heh. Oh, well. Definitely worth a shot.
As for the Kilz... man I'm still laughing.
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WOW, wish I had a garage that clean, I can barely get around to do anything in mine.
How thick is the wood on the sides of your cab they look THICK...???
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.How thick is the wood on the sides of your cab they look THICK...???
Thanks for noticing. ;)
2" stock surfaced down to about 1 1/2"... so twice the norm.
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The magazine editors might not go for it, but the woodworkers would (for the most part) really dig it.
I posted a few pics of my Pac project on a woodworking forum and was just blown away at the hype it created. There are a lot of those guys that are at our age (and geeky level) in the WW hobby. I think your project would put many a woodworker into full spasms or amazemant.
Nobody has ever done this before... the WW mags should pick up on that as well.
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I notice that you have your can of Kilz sitting there. Be sure to post some pictures of those sides once you get them primed :P
/me chokes from laughing so hard ;D
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Any more updates on this? *drool*
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(hey guys, let's see if we can get him obsessing over a minor detail like dust washers..)
Regarding the dust washers and scratching the plexi, have you considered putting a thin layer of felt, suede, vinyl, nylon (the white plasticy nylon, as used in bushings and bearings- not pantyhose) or some such on the underside?
Or, did you see these (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=37140.0)? They're fricking gorgeous, his pics don't really do them justice. I ended up putting two of them on a standalone CP I made my brother for Christmas, wrapped around two of RandyT's translucent balltops, and they really give it that extra something something. It's also occured to me that there's no reason I couldn't take my remaining pair down to the engraving shop.
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OR, they make some material similar to UMHW (I can never remember the order of the letters, but you SHOULD know what I'm talking about, otherwise just paint your cab ;D ) in black that would work perfectly.
Perhaps you should do some tests, mebbe build a jig, and run some materials across a scrap piece of plexi several times to see which scratches less, if at all. Naturally, these tests will end up showing you the thing which scratches the least will not come in the color you need it, but let us know so we can help figure out some exotic way to color it.
Kremmit, did you notice that he's going with the STANDARD nuts for his buttons? Can you believe he's going through all this trouble and has THOSE? ::) Some people just have no idea how to solve the little problems, hey?
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dang you guys, i keep checking out this thread in hopes that pixel has actually done something, only to find a couple of windbags...no offense. i was suprised by the dust washer issue though.
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No you are right, they are windbags. ;)
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No you are right, they are windbags. ;)
Said the guy adding a reply to the thread and causing people to look ;D
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Am I the only person who feels dust washers should go UNDER the plexi? Why work on all that beautiful artwork then cover it up with a dustwasher?
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It would be cool, but I think stainless washers would negate the fact that they are visible.
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so, this is hypothetical, what if some guy made a control panel that only had an overlay, like from mamemarquees. how would he hide his dustwashers under the artwork? this is completely hypothetical.
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By routing out shallow circles around the Joystick and recessing them under the under the cp underlay.
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Those stainless washers are gorgeous. Can you feel them hit the shaft or do they fit tightly enough to move with it?
As far as updates go, I made - or rather stumbled across - another personal breakthrough for me. I've been wondering how to go about "inlaying" the plexi for the nav panel and minimarquee. Turns out my dad used a special inlay router bit to inlay a piece of wood into a mistake he made on a tabletop. Worked perfectly, so he's sending the bits down for me to use. This'll let me set the plexi flush with the wood. After bullnosing both edges where they join it'll have a "pillow embossed" inlaid look. I'm very excited about it!!! Hopefully these panels will be completed this weekend, and of course I'll flood the thread with pics. :laugh:
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On an unrelated note, I thought I'd post these images- if only to show that when I can't be at home trying to build my cab, I'm busy dreaming about it at work.
These are the result of now cancelled plans to take the show and tell aspect of the project to even more ridiculous levels. Since I enjoyed making the mock ads so much I thought I'd mock up an actual magazine for the project. It was gonna be one of those absurd single issue commemorative magazines you find briefly on newstands after questionably significant events like royal weddings. After finding a magazine printer who could actually produce a bunch of them for a couple hundred bucks I decided I had to do it.
Until my wife refused to tell me what she thought of the idea. That meant it had nothing to do with money... she was in "protect my feelings" mode. Further badgering got her to admit that she thought it was ridiculous to the point of embarassing. I dimissed it laughing that I already knew that. But her look made me suddenly realize how right she was. It wasn't that she thought it was riduculous. It was that she thought it was pathetic. I started to feel like I was obsessing over the project like some teenage kid with a lowered honda and a two foot tall scoop on the trunk.... so no magazine.
Cover idea #1
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Cover idea #2 and the intro page.
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so, this is hypothetical, what if some guy made a control panel that only had an overlay, like from mamemarquees. how would he hide his dustwashers under the artwork? this is completely hypothetical.
By routing out shallow circles around the Joystick and recessing them under the under the cp underlay.
Exactly. Here's an image reference for you courtesy of Oscar. It's from his multi-williams.
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Those stainless washers are gorgeous. Can you feel them hit the shaft or do they fit tightly enough to move with it?
As far as updates go, I made - or rather stumbled across - another personal breakthrough for me. I've been wondering how to go about "inlaying" the plexi for the nav panel and minimarquee. Turns out my dad used a special inlay router bit to inlay a piece of wood into a mistake he made on a tabletop. Worked perfectly, so he's sending the bits down for me to use. This'll let me set the plexi flush with the wood. After bullnosing both edges where they join it'll have a "pillow embossed" inlaid look. I'm very excited about it!!! Hopefully these panels will be completed this weekend, and of course I'll flood the thread with pics. :laugh:
Well, at least some progress is being made, even if it is behind the scenes. ;D I pretty much check the thread once a month now, figuring I'll hit the big changes. I'm just waiting for the "FINISHED" on the thread title so I can come look. Slow and steady. Tried and true.
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For anyone interested in how the inlay bits work you can read about them here:
http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/graphics2/19inlay.pdf
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Damn!! Gorgeous CP Pixel!! :o
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I definitey think you are obsessed, but you are a graphic artist, of course you are going to want to go off on tangents like this. I get similar feedback from my wife now and then about my Arcade, Ham Radio, and Computer hobbies. But this is coming from a person who has no hobby passion at all. I feel sad for her sometimes. How boring it must be.
Enjoy your hobby, as long as you aren't blowing off the family to do it. Let het roll her eyes, she knew what she was in for marrying an artist, right? ;)
....she thought it was ridiculous to the point of embarassing. I dimissed it laughing that I already knew that. But her look made me suddenly realize how right she was. It wasn't that she thought it was riduculous. It was that she thought it was pathetic.
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what he said. of course your like a teenager with a lowered honda, is that a bad thing?
right now, i'm in the middle of getting my cab comp going and everything wired up and working and i've taken three rooms of the house to do it (the dining room for painting and assembly, the living room for comp setup, and my bedroom for soldering and crimping and testing). then, my lady wanted to play nintendo on the tv while i was messing around, but it doesn't work anymore, so i've got two nintendo's on my desk in my room taken completly apart (and i think it's a bad transformer...).
I told her this morning how crazy it is to be working on two different projects while i'm supposed to be studying for two midterms and she was like, at least your back to normal. aka, she expects me to have like eight projects going all the time, cause that's what i do. yeah, she thinks it's crazy that i've spent 2000 on an arcade cabinet that doesn't work yet and that i have three nintendo's in my closet, but she understands that this is who i am. she's probably just happy i'm not out living the wild life with ladies in my arms or something.
anyway, do what you want, since your wife doesn't seem to care. yeah, she thinks it's crazy and obsessive, but we'd all hope that this isn't news to her.
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oh, and if you've got spare time, there's always other lucrative things you could be doing with it (commissions).
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nice designs
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On an unrelated note, I thought I'd post these images- if only to show that when I can't be at home trying to build my cab, I'm busy dreaming about it at work.
These are the result of now cancelled plans to take the show and tell aspect of the project to even more ridiculous levels. Since I enjoyed making the mock ads so much I thought I'd mock up an actual magazine for the project. It was gonna be one of those absurd single issue commemorative magazines you find briefly on newstands after questionably significant events like royal weddings. After finding a magazine printer who could actually produce a bunch of them for a couple hundred bucks I decided I had to do it.
Until my wife refused to tell me what she thought of the idea. That meant it had nothing to do with money... she was in "protect my feelings" mode. Further badgering got her to admit that she thought it was ridiculous to the point of embarassing. I dimissed it laughing that I already knew that. But her look made me suddenly realize how right she was. It wasn't that she thought it was riduculous. It was that she thought it was pathetic. I started to feel like I was obsessing over the project like some teenage kid with a lowered honda and a two foot tall scoop on the trunk.... so no magazine.
Cover idea #1
Wrong, Wrong, Wrong!
My wife accepts my childlike enthusiasm for my cabinet project. It's nerdy. I can come to terms with that. My brother and Sister In Law were up for superbowl. They both said that when they heard the idea they throught it would be crappy. When they saw it, they said it looked like something you would buy. My Sister In Law, actually asked me where I bought the cabinet part (which I built), after I told her I bought the CP parts from real arcade suppliers. We all had a great deal of fun playing it. Every person has "their" game. My Sister In Law was nostalgic about Tetris because she and her cousins took a roadie when the were younger with only gameboy tetris to play. She said herself, it can be a bit nerdy, but it's not like it's the only thing you do. I play sports (broke my leg doing it), teach skiing, build other home projects like fences, shelves etc...
Additional to that anecdote:
My wife laid out all of her wedding pictures with an online company which publishes a bound book. I though that was a little obsessive.... but change the subject matter to, oh, I don't know, an arcade cabinet project..... I can tell you that her mother, all her girlfriends, my mohter... every woman who has seen the bound wedding picture book went absolutely batty over how beautiful it was and how nice it was to have it all bound in a professional looking package.
Think on that when you ask you yourself if you really want to do up a magazine. Consider also that FutureShop, Loblaws, Kodak... just about anywhere that does digital image processing now offer a book binding service.
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On an unrelated note, I thought I'd post these images- if only to show that when I can't be at home trying to build my cab, I'm busy dreaming about it at work.
These are the result of now cancelled plans to take the show and tell aspect of the project to even more ridiculous levels. Since I enjoyed making the mock ads so much I thought I'd mock up an actual magazine for the project. It was gonna be one of those absurd single issue commemorative magazines you find briefly on newstands after questionably significant events like royal weddings. After finding a magazine printer who could actually produce a bunch of them for a couple hundred bucks I decided I had to do it.
Until my wife refused to tell me what she thought of the idea. That meant it had nothing to do with money... she was in "protect my feelings" mode. Further badgering got her to admit that she thought it was ridiculous to the point of embarassing. I dimissed it laughing that I already knew that. But her look made me suddenly realize how right she was. It wasn't that she thought it was riduculous. It was that she thought it was pathetic. I started to feel like I was obsessing over the project like some teenage kid with a lowered honda and a two foot tall scoop on the trunk.... so no magazine.
Cover idea #1
Wrong, Wrong, Wrong!
My wife accepts my childlike enthusiasm for my cabinet project. It's nerdy. I can come to terms with that. My brother and Sister In Law were up for superbowl. They both said that when they heard the idea they throught it would be crappy. When they saw it, they said it looked like something you would buy. My Sister In Law, actually asked me where I bought the cabinet part (which I built), after I told her I bought the CP parts from real arcade suppliers. We all had a great deal of fun playing it. Every person has "their" game. My Sister In Law was nostalgic about Tetris because she and her cousins took a roadie when the were younger with only gameboy tetris to play. She said herself, it can be a bit nerdy, but it's not like it's the only thing you do. I play sports (broke my leg doing it), teach skiing, build other home projects like fences, shelves etc...
Additional to that anecdote:
My wife laid out all of her wedding pictures with an online company which publishes a bound book. I though that was a little obsessive.... but change the subject matter to, oh, I don't know, an arcade cabinet project..... I can tell you that her mother, all her girlfriends, my mohter... every woman who has seen the bound wedding picture book went absolutely batty over how beautiful it was and how nice it was to have it all bound in a professional looking package. I'd wager any red blooded man who has ever picked up as much as a hobby knife will give the male equivalent response.
Think on that when you ask you yourself if you really want to do up a magazine. Consider also that FutureShop, Loblaws, Kodak... just about anywhere that does digital image processing now offer a book binding service.
Besides you could consider it a graphic design portfolio piece. I don't know if you're a designer by profession, but you're pretty damn good at it.
oops.. was quoting instead of modifying.
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(in regards to the photo shown with inlaid dust washers)
ah, i get it now, he's got Plexiglas over the routered hole and dust washer, i never noticed that before. i always wondered how people wouldn't press your overlay down into your routered hole. and i guess you could always use wood instead of Plexiglas. on a even more side note, why not just recess your joystick into the top of the cp, then stick the dust washer on top, then put a layer of plexi over that? it would take less routering and t-nuts...
sorry pixel to hijack your thread for personal reasons, i've started like two threads on the topic and never got a good answer to my cp conundrum. go ahead and start working again.
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on a even more side note, why not just recess your joystick into the top of the cp, then stick the dust washer on top, then put a layer of plexi over that? it would take less routering and t-nuts...
You'd need a hole large enough to stick the joystick body, and have just enough left over to support the corners of your joystick (take a look at a joystick - you'll see what I mean) that it'd be so poorly supported I don't suppose it'd take much to shove it right through your CP and/or bend a corner or something. Sure, you aren't going to have yard apes playing on your cab, but things tend to "happen" in the oddest ways.
Then, the whole top of some joys (I don't know about ALL, but I know about what I've got) is inset and will support an even smaller area of your CPO than routing out the dust washer recess.
Lastly, your joystick would sit taller than normal. Mebbe you can work around it, but with all the other things working against you, do you really wanna add yet one last thing to help you screw something up?
Alternatively, you could trim your dustwashers (like it seems Kelsey did)
Now stop crapping up Pixel's thread. He won't have room to post any updates ;)
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Those stainless washers are gorgeous. Can you feel them hit the shaft or do they fit tightly enough to move with it?
They do look nice. The size I had Franco cut them, they are dead snug on a nice new Wico shaft, to the point of not even fitting onto a rusty one. I ended up using RandyT's lollitops on my brother's panel, which have much smaller diameter handles. You can feel them hit if you really shake things around, but during normal play, you don't notice a thing. Gravity and the slope of the cp conspire to keep them hanging, and a sideways move of the stick just rolls them. I suppose a direct down-to-up movement might produce a little impact, I can't say I ever noticed it to be a problem, but I didn't get much play time in on it before it left the building.
Drew seems to be worried about your nuts.
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you know what, this huge thread is almost like a guide for building an arcade cabinet, the right way and the wrong way. so far we've covered time issues and constraints, as well as how to get past them, and as for cabinet building, we've covered control panels and marquee building, as well as designing in cad software. we've covered all sorts of small things too dealing with each topic, like the right way to bend Plexiglas, and the wrong way.
i say we should sticky this one and rename it as a cab building FAQ post. of course, we can still ask pixel why he hasn't built this ridiculous cabinet yet and harp on him about all the things he does waste his time on, even if they are cool.
of course, we should probably wait till he gets done, but that might not be for another 3 years at the pace he's going.
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you know what, this huge thread is almost like a guide for building an arcade cabinet, the right way and the wrong way. so far we've covered time issues and constraints, as well as how to get past them, and as for cabinet building, we've covered control panels and marquee building, as well as designing in cad software. we've covered all sorts of small things too dealing with each topic, like the right way to bend Plexiglas, and the wrong way... etc. <snip>
Well said.
This thread is a cabinet build thread... but it is also a thread that pushes the envelope of what can be done. It brings out some of the best and brightest fabricators on the forum. It stretches the imagination.
Because of the "obsessive" properties of this thread, there are many, MANY processes and discussions that can be used to improve the construction of the most basic of cabinets to the most outrageous. I find myself regularly reading back through it, simply because it has so much great discussion about what I like best in this hobby... the design and fabrication of a well constructed cabinet.
I'm calling you out Pixel! Obsess away and hit us with more of the details.
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I have three (3) wico joysticks that I will someday top mount in a panel and cover with Lexan.
I would like to know more about how you applied your artwork. Did you put a thin piece of plexi or lexan on top of your joystick bases and then sandwich your artwork between that piece and a top piece of lexan/plexi?
If so, how did you maintain a smooth transition between pieces and art at say, the trackball hole?
Any info or help here would be greatly appreciated.
edit* I finally found some free time to search through this thread and answer my own questions but if anyone has any more details regarding alignment or cutting of the plexi pieces that would be helpful.
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Well as far as alignment goes, I used the same file to layout my controls as I did for the artwork. So when it came time to drill the plexi and mdf I printed out a full scale B+W sheet of my layout at Kinkos. Then I clamped the MDF and plexi together and taped the layout in place for reference when drilling.
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We need pics. C'mon, the hall of fame is calling.
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Sorry for the lack of updates recently. Of the 20+ hours of lab since the "semester" started, I've only been able to go for about 45 minutes. Sigh. Anyhow, next week I've scheduled time off to be able to attend an unprecedented FULL LAB SESSION. 4.5 hours of uninterrupted cabinet progress. I'm hoping this will be enough to nearly finish the NavPanel and Minimarquee... structurally at least.
I've posted for opinions on the NavPanel layout before which was very helpful... so I'm looking to get feedback one more time before committing the design to plastic and wood forever. ;) Basically I'm trying to decide between two button layouts.... one is all horizontal, which leaves some open space to either side of the DVD slot. Not sure if that's gonna look too bare or uneven. The other uses an arc of buttons to fill the space a bit better and I think it ties the panel in with the curves of the sides and CP. It also gives it a bit more of a "dashboard" feel. Goofy spaceship instrument cluster = good.... automotive instrument cluster = baaad. Opinions wanted.
As far as what to expect wednesday (lab day) I'm hoping to get the following done:
Route 2 templates for inlays - one for the minmarquee and one for the navpanel.
Route recession for inlays in wood of minimarquee and navpanel
Cut inlays out of plastic
Bullnose wood and plastic
And if there's time, drill holes for buttons and route slot for dvd drive in the navpanel.
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First blush...
curved.
After more deliberation...
curved.
Final conclusion...
curved.
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Curved layout for sure.
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Curved. If it were possible I would prefer the curve inverted to look like a smile instead of a frown.
Also, did you scrap the original console button labels that had pictures of the consoles with the console name?
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Yeah, I scrapped the pictures of the consoles because they didn't feel like a consistent design element without being vectorized. It also feels a bit cleaner to me without them.
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Curved. No question. Curved.
Just wondering - what does the 'mobility' button do?
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curved.
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The mobility button toggles between two different first person 3D modes in the 3D Arcade FE. One allows the player to walkaround through a virtual arcade, the other fixes the players position while cabs scroll past as if on a conveyor belt.
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Curved is the way to enlightenment, young Grasshopper.
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Some comments on the two designs:
Curved almost looks like an alien frowning (not necessarily a bad thing considering the arcade theme). It breaks the smaller buttons into two groups of three... which again is not necessarily a bad thing. It leaves room below the buttons for some cool artwork or instructions. Curved also fits the profile of your cabinet.
Straight puts more emphasis the orange button. The look is a little more cramped. It draws a line with the emulator titles on the buttons, might make them a little harder to read (or find quickly).
So, based on that, I have to go with curved.
Darryl
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They are right,
Curved is really nice ;)
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So what did you get done at the woodwork lab last night?
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So what did you get done at the woodwork lab last night?
Well it turns out that 4 1/2 hours was only enough to get the jigs complete... I did manage to generate enough MDF dust to nearly send the entire class into respiratory failure... plenty of dirty looks from the old woodworking curmudgeons.
So here are the results...
First image is 1/4" MDF marked for routing out the jig
Second image is the router positioned at the end of it's path. I attached a stop block at this point for a good transition from the horizontal path to the vertical.
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Here is the first horizontal pass with the router from stop block to stop block. I used the edge guide to hold the router straight.
Second image is the finished cutout.
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The finished minimarquee jig.
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I also finished the NavPanel jig. I'll post pics from home tonight for that.
Next step is to use these as guides for an inlay bit set to route out a 1/4" deep recession in the walnut panels, and cut matching plexi inserts from 3/8" plastic. Both the walnut and plastic will get a 1/8" bullnose where they meet. The plastic will protrude about 1/8" from the walnut. I'm very excited for the "crafted" look this should give these panels. If all goes well, I'll probably use the same technique for the CP of my (ahem) next cab.
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Just realized the pic of the edge guide makes it hard to distinguish from the vise at the end of the table. Here's another.
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Final jigs
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Weird. Your MDF looks grainy like particle board. Wonder if that is a regional thing? The MDF here is much darker and one solid color.
This whole thing is making me sad. All my tools are packed awaiting the move. I had to borrow a drill from work yesterday :o It is quite depressing.
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The MDF here is much darker and one solid color.
The only stuff darker than this out here is masonite. The camera may be adding a bit of graininess to it too. Dunno. After that last CP I don't think I'll ever touch particle board again for my arcade projects! Blech. :P
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Seems I can't get anything right on the project on the first attempt... so right on par with building this whole thing twice before it's actually done... I spend a chunck of time over the weekend re-routing the navpanel jig. I failed to realize how significant the inlay bit offset from the pattern was going to be. All told the overall dimension of the inlay is a full 3/8's smaller than the jig itself. I had to reroute in my "shop" without access to the high school lab. That meant no edge guide so I had twice as much blocking and measuring to do in order to form a horizontal guide. Just as well since the router seems to cut a much better line when running along the horizontal blocks than it did with the edge guide. I'm much happier with the smoother results. I'm determined to get these panels done wednesday!!
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Basic question, I know, but what is a jig?
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Basic question, I know, but what is a jig?
A lively dance typically incorporating leaping movements.
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Basic question, I know, but what is a jig?
A lively dance typically incorporating leaping movements.
;D
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Or in this case, a device used to guide to hold tools against a workpiece. Technically I suppose these are really templates or patterns. The device used to bend the plastic was a better example of a jig.
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I know little about woodwork. Difficult to tell, I know. I am a bit confused as to what those minimarquee jigs would actually help you do.
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I know little about woodwork. Difficult to tell, I know. I am a bit confused as to what those minimarquee jigs would actually help you do.
I was confused about this too. You're going to route out a recess in the panel and inlay in some shaped plexi, right? Very slick. This will hold down your artwork while still allowing the beauty of the wood to be shown. I'm impressed.
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I know little about woodwork.
Heh... well at the rate I'm going, that makes two of us. I know it's a bit obscure right now. If I had gotten to the point of finishing the inlay I'd have pictures that would make MUCH more sense. I actually just reread my post and confused myself. It'll make more sense wednesday... if I can do it right on the first try.
Essentially the idea is to recess a pattern in the shape of the artwork into the walnut of the minimarquee. Then cut a perfectly matching piece from thick plastic. The art then gets set into the deep recession and the plastic gets inlaid into the recession as well. It'll protrude a little bit and be bullnosed and polished. So it'll have an inset/embedded feel. The jig or pattern serves the purpose of guiding the router to recess the walnut. I'll then switch bushings on the router base and make a matching shape out of plastic using the same jig. Like I said, hopefully wednesday it'll all be clearer. :)
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That's good, I understand what you're doing now. The jig is a template from which you will both route the recession in the control panel and cut the plastic that will fill that recession.
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You know, it just occured to me that this:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;attach=38571;type=avatar)
...would make a heck of a token. If a guy were going to spare no expense, that is.
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You know, it just occured to me that this:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;attach=38571;type=avatar)
...would make a heck of a token. If a guy were going to spare no expense, that is.
I'd be worried that the little notches on the sides would tear up the coin chute on the way down! ;)
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You know, it just occured to me that this:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;attach=38571;type=avatar)
...would make a heck of a token. If a guy were going to spare no expense, that is.
I'd be worried that the little notches on the sides would tear up the coin chute on the way down! ;)
Why would Pixel use a standard coin door?
He will probably build something like this.
The coins will look just like the above image. (Full 3D with color and all).
You will place them into a lighted recess that has a perfect fit.
You then press down on the coin and it will lower into the panel.
At the same time fog and air will circulate, lights will flash and the coin will dissappear.
At the same time some cool sound effect is also playing in the background.
WOW, what did I smoke for breakfast?
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Ack dont give him any more ideas, Ive already waited too long to see this project come this far.... ;
Any recent project updates Pix?
mj147
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We need updates pics eyecandy input.
Anything!!
Stop teasing.
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^^bump.
for purely selfish reasons. dying to see progress on this cab.
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^^bump.
for purely selfish reasons. dying to see progress on this cab.
Dats funny.
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Pixelhugger reminds me of the old commercial, "we will sell no wine before it's time." :angel:
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Well I had planned an eye candy navpanel update today since it's slow at work... but then forgot the hard drive with all the pictures on it, so it'll have to wait until tonight. DOH!!
On a totally unrelated note, I was able to show off my, errr, lack of progress to a fellow cab builder who stopped by last weekend. It was the first time I got to show the cab in person to someone who has actually followed the thread. Fun stuff! :)
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Why would Pixel use a standard coin door?
He will probably build something like this.
The coins will look just like the above image. (Full 3D with color and all).
You will place them into a lighted recess that has a perfect fit...
Hehe... Now THAT would be cool. Especially with the fog.
Not sure if I mentioned this before, but I did intend on mounting two tokens on the CP and wiring them with one of those electrostatic touch sensitive switches they put on metal lamps. That way you could just touch.. not press.. the token and register a credit. I canned the idea when I decided the coin door would discourage credit absue. This came after a friend and I played Gauntlet with a million or so credits and I realized some games just suck if it's too easy to tap in credits. Still, I thought the idea was cool and may use it on... ummmm.. my next cab.
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On a further unrelated note...
I've continued to be tempted by the idea of a magazine to commemorate the completion of the project. I decided a while ago it was self centered to the point of embarassing but the idea continues to fascinate me. I just discovered the printer can produce magazines with a squared off/glued (perfect bound) spine... like the videogame magazines you see on the newsstands. This got me thinking about it again and I may cave to my inner geek. I thought if the magazine were structured around a reprint (albeit heavily abridged) of the thread, I'd have a much less embarrassing time explaining why I printed it. ::)
Would anyone else be interested in a commemortative abridged hard copy of this ridiculously self serving thread? It'd look and feel much like the ads in my sig. and would contain a partial reprint of the thread, parody ads, project background, how to's and construction gallery and an article unveiling the final project...40-50 pages in all (44 pages is the minimum for the perfect bound spine :P) I'm askin cause the more copies I could sell at close to cost the more likely I could afford to actually run the thing- probably at 9 or 10 bucks each. Just checking. I know, I know.... :lame:
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Would anyone else be interested in a commemortative abridged hard copy of this ridiculously self serving thread? It'd look and feel much like the ads in my sig. and would contain a partial reprint of the thread, parody ads, project background, how to's and construction gallery and an article unveiling the final project...40-50 pages in all (44 pages is the minimum for the perfect bound spine :P) I'm askin cause the more copies I could sell at close to cost the more likely I could afford to actually run the thing- probably at 9 or 10 bucks each. Just checking. I know, I know.... :lame:
I'd probably pop for one... Provided the cab is finished and the magazine published before I hit retirement age in 2032 and cannot afford it with my reduced monthly income.
Come on... get with the building and updating already.
Bumble
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What the... you mean actually build it????
Heh... check back tonight for the navpanel progress. ;)
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uh... son of a .... how dare you post in here without pictures! When I found this thread I read through the whole thing (it took a while).... only to find out that it wasn't complete. So now I'm just waiting, to see how I want to build my cab. Maybe I will just build yours, so I get to see it complete!
Of course, I'm just messing with you. :P But don't you dare come back here without pics ;) Funny you should mention the "thread book", I was just going to suggest you say screw the book and just print the whole thread out.
Anyways, wish you luck, and you should heed the lesson you already know from everyone else on here... take on ONE project at a time. Screw the book, no sense in making a book on how something was built... if it never gets built.
l8r,
liquid8
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Would anyone else be interested in a commemortative abridged hard copy of this ridiculously self serving thread? It'd look and feel much like the ads in my sig. and would contain a partial reprint of the thread, parody ads, project background, how to's and construction gallery and an article unveiling the final project...
Put in a cut-out version of your cab so we can build our own (similar to the Way of the Rodent models) and I might be interested
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Would anyone else be interested in a commemortative abridged hard copy of this ridiculously self serving thread? It'd look and feel much like the ads in my sig. and would contain a partial reprint of the thread, parody ads, project background, how to's and construction gallery and an article unveiling the final project...
Put in a cut-out version of your cab so we can build our own (similar to the Way of the Rodent models) and I might be interested
HOLY CRAP!!! That's a freaking GREAT idea!! OMFG that's a must do!
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WHAT DID I TELL YOU! :angry:
liquid8
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:)
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Well typical for this project, I had to do this several times before I got it right.
The basic idea was to create a plastic inlay in walnut. I wanted the result to look as though the artwork overlay were embedded in the wood. I used an inlay bit in a router to cut the pieces using the templates as a guide. There's a good description of how this works here http://www.newwoodworker.com/rotrinlays.html
To quote (for the lazy) A small diameter bit passes through a small collar, much like a normal guide bushing setup. The trick part is a removable bushing that fits on the collar. When installed, the bushing positions the bit to cut the recess for the inlay. Remove the bushing and the bit is now correctly located to cut the outline of the inlay, sized perfectly to fit the recess.
The walnut came out beautifully on the first try. The plastic however was far more difficult for me... I went through 3 pieces by the time I was done.
First failure: Attempting to cut plastic in one pass resulted in pretty stuttery router control. Probably could've been salvaged except for where I pushed away from a curve in the template and about 1/2" into the inlay. ARRGH. $15 down the drain and downtime waiting for a chance to work on it again.
Second failure: Being an idiot, I tried to cut the plastic in a single pass again. This time the trail of fused plastic and incomplete depth of cut in a couple of places caused chipping when I removed the cutout. Didn't really matter since I had forgotten to remove the removable bushing and had cut the inlay way too small. Another $15 gone and more downtime.
On the third time I cut the plastic in multiple passes. I also decided not to risk cutting the right angles at the bottom and modified the jig to use 45 deg angles there instead. This looks much nicer from a design standpoint anyway.The melting/fusing problem was eliminated and the clear, shallow path made handling the curves waaaaaay easier.
Here is the template and walnut ready for the first cut, you can see the inlay bit and bushing in the router
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47432;image)
Here is the walnut after the first router pass
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47426;image)
...and after removing the inner area of the recess.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47438;image)
Here is the jig modification
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47430;image)
And the final routed walnut and plastic inlay
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47442;image)
This is the setup for cutting the DVD slot
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47455;image)
And the slot cut
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47457;image)
Fixing unevenness in the slot
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47451;image)
Bullnosing the edge with a 1/8" dremmel bit
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47436;image)
And polishing the bullnosed edge.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47446;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47453;image)
Finished inlay. So tight it's damn near impossible to get the plastic out once seated. The plastic still needs quite a bit of polishing.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47444;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47449;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47459;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47463;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47465;image)
The final panel trimmed to sized will look about like this
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47469;image)
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That looks amazing. Great job, as always.
Thanks for the update. I always love seeing your work.
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That looks bloody great.
Put me down for one of your crazy mags.
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MOST EXCELLENT!!
I've always thought the neatest thing about your cabinet was the NAV panel with the custom artwork in the buttons. I really like it.
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Some nifty router work there...nice job. This panel was my favorite part of your concept too. :)
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Thanks everyone! It's really exciting for me to see it materializing.
The wood is still unfinished (stain only so far) and the overlay artwork is temporary.. printed out on my inkjet, Mr. Crappy... but I couldn't resist posting all this. There's really only a few more difficult structures to build before I can assemble the thing - the marquee "box" top and bottom, the minimarquee and the keyboard panel (also inlaid). After all this I'm hoping that stuff won't be very hard. Oh, and I still have to build a bracket to hold the slimline DVD drive on the back of this. Anyone know of any cheap slimline drive brackets that'd do the trick?
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Hey all, I thought I should chime in here. I had a chance to see the "Cabinet" first hand this past weekend. I was out in LA bringing my fiance home (i'm from VA) and I thought I'd bug Pixelhugger. The control panel and this latest panel look amazing. The inlay and woodworking were topnotch. He also showed me what a wico joystick looked like.... yeah I'm a microswitch kid! The sides of the cabinet are TALL...like 7' tall. All in all, its going to look gorgeous when its done.
PS: I don't know if this is anywhere else on the forums but you all should should pester him for a picture of his garage floor....
Nate
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Hey Nate!
Yeah, it was really fun being able to talk shop in person... Next time you're out this way I'm hoping to have the thing actually playable. :laugh2: Then you can experience the MUSHY-FU fighting style of the leaf switch Wico's... mebbe then I'd stand a chance since I generally suck at fighters.
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No slimline drive PC mounting bracket suggestions?? There's gotta be PC case modders here who've got ideas/recommendations! :P I'm looking for something that'll screw/bolt to the drive.. mebbe a cage of some sort that I can then screw/glue/mount to the back of the wooden nav panel.
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So...Lets see the garage floor Pixel. :D
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He's got a mockup of the floor back on page 7 but never posted any finished pics >:(
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I swear he posted pics one time.... seach harder :)
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He's got a mockup of the floor back on page 7 but never posted any finished pics >:(
Man, I thought I had! Just searched the entire thread and... nothing.
So here they are. Not as over the top as the mockup with all the blue, but I love it.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47800;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47796;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47798;image)
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I swear he posted pics one time.... seach harder :)
This thread needs a TOC. ::)
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I know for sure I saw those pics before... unless you emailed them to me before or something.. I am I the only one that remembers seeing these?? I can't find them with the search function either. Wierd.
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I know for sure I saw those pics before... unless you emailed them to me before or something.. I am I the only one that remembers seeing these?? I can't find them with the search function either. Wierd.
I remember seeing them, too. Here's my theory..
Pixel gets a lot of :censored: for not posting new updates.. So, now, he's resorted to removing OLD updates, allowing him to REPOST old pics, adeptly removing our attention from the fact that there's no progress... ;D
JUST KIDDING, PH!! I just want to see more progress pics! :notworthy:
:)
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Flipping sweet!
I remember seeing the work in progress on the floor, good to see the final pics.
Now he's got to finish the walls...
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THAT IS SO SICK!!!!!!
Now, I know you did not have marbke cut for a garage, so how did you pull that off?
:applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
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Flipping sweet!
I remember seeing the work in progress on the floor, good to see the final pics.
Now he's got to finish the walls...
No , don't get him going on the walls !!! I wanna see more cab progress pics :hissy:
Don't want to see the cab pushed back any farther...I'm now reading of a probable book also....? :'(
;D ;D ;D
Heyas Pix in case no one has mentined it yet, you got a beautiful cab in the works :D
mj147
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Everything looks spectacular! :applaud: Question: Shouldn't you be designing statues for a local school, or making pieces of art or something? That craftsmanship is on the next level. Like you may want to consider making some stuff level. :notworthy:
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THAT IS SO SICK!!!!!!
Now, I know you did not have marbke cut for a garage, so how did you pull that off?
I projected the logo from inside the garage attic with a cheapo plastic art tracing projector. Then I hand cut the logo with a 4" angle grinder. My friend ground the cement and polished it with his fancy cement polishing equipment which is what makes it look so cool. That was 99% of the work. He also stained/dyed the artwork and cut the border with a cool little sled mounted grinder (to keep the lines straight). One of the best things about the floor is that sawdust doesn't stick to it and it doesn't "sweat" gritty garage floor cement silt into the shop!
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Your gonna bust your ass on that floor :P ;D
I want need a book.
The plastic and walnut work look just great! I still can't believe that you are hand polishing that stuff though... hard work that is. You do make this stuff look much easier than it is in reality you know ;)
On the CD mounting, I usually just hack up old PC cases for my mounts. Cutting out the section that I need and then re-forming the mounting tabs to fit my app. Once it fits I just roll the sharp edges and pretty it up with some paint or whatever. Never bothered to look for a pre-fit method. I'm sure this is less than helpful...
Bacon.
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No slimline drive PC mounting bracket suggestions?? There's gotta be PC case modders here who've got ideas/recommendations! :P I'm looking for something that'll screw/bolt to the drive.. mebbe a cage of some sort that I can then screw/glue/mount to the back of the wooden nav panel.
I dunno if you thought about this,or if it would work, but how about universal CB mounting brackets, they look like little peices of angle iron, they screw into the sides of a CB then onto the dashboard(or ceiling) of a vehicle. Hell I probably have about 200 around here somewhere, I've owned my fair share of CBs and cobras come with these cheesy little ones that could work for your aplication, but I'm not about to mount a 5 lb Cb from the roof directly over my right temple from those so I go out and buy the BIG one! Any truck stop would have em, and they cost less than 10 bucks.
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You do make this stuff look much easier than it is in reality you know ;)
...only cuz I don't show the smouldering remains of my failed attempts. It just costs a lot to make it look easy. :angry: ::)
@reptile- thanks for the heads up on the brackets I'm gonna look into that.
And the PC recylcing idea too...
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See, I told you they would like your floor....now work on the cab! Or mine ;D :angel:
Think we should start a project thread on it or revive the old one at least?
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Another idea for the mounting brackets...
Go to a HD or Lowe's and check the brackets used for decks and studs.
There have things called mending plates or something like that.
Basically it's a small piece of sheet metal about 4 x 6" and is drilled with a bunch of holes.
You can drill other holes as needed.
I have taken those before and then bent them in a vise at right angles.
Not as pretty, but no one will see them. You could paint them I guess.
BobbyG66
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What he's looking for is a DVD drive like you have in your car dash, where the disc just slips in. There is no tray for the disc.
Or did you guys already know this and I should crawl back in my hole again?
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No slimline drive PC mounting bracket suggestions??
i think you will just have to go to a PC parts place and see if they have any 5.25" mounting cages.
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What he's looking for is a DVD drive like you have in your car dash, where the disc just slips in. There is no tray for the disc.
Or did you guys already know this and I should crawl back in my hole again?
I got the impression that the drive was already selected... he just needs a project-worthy mounting method. I'm sure that something hand chiseled from titanium would be acceptable ;D
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What he's looking for is a DVD drive like you have in your car dash, where the disc just slips in. There is no tray for the disc.
Or did you guys already know this and I should crawl back in my hole again?
Pixelhugger - are you looking for a way to mount an existing drive or do you need the drive as well? Here's a good source for the drives if you still need one - http://www.mp3car.com/store/index.php?cPath=39 (http://www.mp3car.com/store/index.php?cPath=39)
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Man, I thought I had! Just searched the entire thread and... nothing.
So here they are. Not as over the top as the mockup with all the blue, but I love it.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47800;image)
So Pixelhugger - how do you get a car in there with a big ol' tree in your driveway ;)
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I got the impression that the drive was already selected... he just needs a project-worthy mounting method.
Right. Got the drive already from newegg. Same one in fact that's shown in that mp3 car link... (cool site btw!) It has a teeny faceplate with those little fabric dust curtains - not shown here.
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Just bought the walnut today for the top and bottom of the marquee "box." Sure sucks to buy this hardwood without a family member helping to pay! :dizzy: Hopefully this means I'll get the marquee structure finished soon!
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You know, you are a true craftsman. This project stands as an example of how well things can be done when time and money are not allowed to influence the outcome. Our society may be remembered for the volume of innovation that we've produced, but we certainly won't be remembered for the quality or artistry of what we've produced. It's too bad we don't have a bulletin board website of just things done right. It would be nice to see an arcade cabinet project in a place like that.
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Man, I thought I had! Just searched the entire thread and... nothing.
So here they are. Not as over the top as the mockup with all the blue, but I love it.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=47800;image)
So Pixelhugger - how do you get a car in there with a big ol' tree in your driveway ;)
I was wondering about this, too. Don't tell me that after that photo was taken you killed an innocent tree and coated some virgin earth in concrete to make a driveway for your planet destroying SUV. Nature hater.
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Hehe... naw... my neighbor cut down a half dozen oak trees like this one and the city slapped him with an $80,000 fine. It's definitey a "single car approach" :P But then I don't let either of our cars approach it anyhow!
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If getting the book done is anything like the cab, sure, put me down for one. At this rate, I've only gotta save a dollar a year to pay for it :laugh2:
Nice work on the cutout. Did you leave the template in place while you routed out the rest of the insides, or did you freehand it?
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Hehe... naw... my neighbor cut down a half dozen oak trees like this one and the city slapped him with an $80,000 fine. It's definitey a "single car approach" :P But then I don't let either of our cars approach it anyhow!
The garage doors are there to allow easy acces for large tools and ginormous pieces of material. Driveways are for parking! (At least this is what I keep telling my wife ;D)
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Did you leave the template in place while you routed out the rest of the insides, or did you freehand it?
Freehanded. But that was easy since I just had to route up to the 1/8" channel. I used a 3/4" straight bit for that.
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Not saying that you would move anytime soon. But, it is going to be interesting to see the look on the faces of the next people who buy your house. It is going to take a certain type of person to say... HOLY CRAP Check this out. THIS is my house. Might be fun just to place a camera in the garage as people look at it just to see the reaction.
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Yeah, we thought about that. In fact that's why my wife wouldn't let me carve the word "Toyworks" into the floor. If we ever do move, the hidden camera is a great idea. :applaud:
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Ahh hell, here goes...
Get a nice solid block of walnut, nice and thick. Route out the exact shape of the drive with the same depth. Slip the drive in place, connect power and data cables to it and cover the piece with plexi. Then mouth the wood piece under your panel. Brace it if you have to.
Darryl
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That's actually very close to what I've been toying with as an inexpensive alternative to buying brackets. I was thinking of cutting a "tray" out of poplar (since it won't be seen) then glueing on sides and a back to "hug" the drive and screwing a piece across the top to sort of "compress" it slightly in place.
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This has given me an excellent idea to mount my harddrives. Thanks fellas! :cheers:
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Watch the heat tho! ;)
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Pixel, why not just use those 2 pieces of poplar, about 1x thickness, and route a channel into 'em the thickness of the drive so you've got a boxy "U". Route the piece of walnut and make the edges of the hole larger to hold the piece of poplar on either side, sort of like a mortised joint.
You could then drill holes into the poplar as in a normal drive cage to further strengthen the support. If you felt necessary, you could make another "U" channel for the backside of the drive and again, route out openings for the cables (I'd use SATA drives for this) and perhaps fasten the back piece like a drawer, one wide dovetail joint on either side to hold everything all nice and tight.
I'm just sayin' is all ;)
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Hey Pixel, I made an all plexi HD shelf. A pictorial is over in my thread. Click my footer to get there. I think it would be very easy to make something similar for your needs.
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pixel, you were wondering about mounting the optical drive. Check out what this case mod did.
http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2006/05/22/wmd_part2_g-gnome_case_mod/9.html
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Wow that is a cool case 'mod.' Thanks SirP, now I need to go learn metalwork and make me one. 8)
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Heh, I guess it isn't so much of a mod rather than a build :)
How close is the mounting screws and width to a normal 5.25" bay?
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pixel, you were wondering about mounting the optical drive. Check out what this case mod did.
http://www.bit-tech.net/modding/2006/05/22/wmd_part2_g-gnome_case_mod/9.html
That guy is :censored: nuts!
Good luck getting that on a plane...
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OMG!!!! I'm with Santoro.. makes me want to learn metalworking.
@SirP not sure... I don't have a cage handy.
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OK, I know may get clowned for yet another cheap mockup, but this one is really important. To me, at least. Really.
I recently updated my cab's 3D model with the super thick sides and correct CP shape etc. It substantially changed the overall vertical feel of the cab, and even with the sides toe-nailing at the same 1
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Thanks for the compliment. :cheers: I think this is a great idea. I was thinking about the frosting. I bet if you had your areas prepped, you could have a body shop sand blast it real quick for next to nothing. I think the effect of the multiple plexi is golden. Very original.
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The more I think about this the more I like it. Mccoy.... how smooth is the sandblasted finish? Can you post close ups of your bezel??
I added the new bezel to the newly updated model and I think I'm sold. Here it is all updated and stuff. Some wonkiness on the model yet to be tweaked. Spinner, eject button, navpanel button layout etc... I apologize again for posting more vaporware renderings but this was long overdue. :blah: The most recent images I had showed the side panels way to thin, the marquee box top and bottom too thin, the wing panels too thin, the wrong controls and placement, the wrong CP shape, no keyboard pull out panel, wrong rocketprocket background and the wrong color wood. PHEW. So this looks more better. Worth doing since it caused an overhaul to the side angles, the cabinet width and now the bezel.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=49381)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=49383)
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Pixel,
My bezel was not sandblasted, but here is a pic I googled:
(http://joeginsberg.com/html/services/fabrications/fabPics/aluminum-racks.jpg)
Also, the paint job on the bezel if freaking fantastic from the outside, like a company did it. I am using a 27" flat screen t.v. and it is right up on the plexi. I will get you a pic tomorrow.
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Nice. Your cabinet is looking like it is going to be my second favorite cabinet out there. That's some good work.
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There is no question that multiple bezel treatment would look impressive,
but that sure adds a lot to the final cost - although that may not even figure
into the equation at this point.
My concern would be that you could find matching colored spray paint
for the two-tone blue plexi inlays that match the rest of the cabinet.
My fear is that they will appear dark compared to the other artwork.
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Yeah it would be expensive. Hopefully I could use the center cutout of the larger black sheet to make the lower black sheet. Depending on how well the sanding can hide a glue joint I may be able to make the blue panels from narrow strips. Otherwise, yeah... very pricey. I was trying to do the math while looking for a plastic store reciept and swerving along canyon roads on my drive home from work tonight. :angry:
As far as the darkness goes.... I'm actually thinking of lighting them from the sides and running blocks of wood the full length between them to keep light from spilling to the monitor. I'm a big fan of that CAF cab project with the lit plexi. I think between the frosted top and the painted back it could look insane!
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I just want Markvp to know that his hard returns
for easy reading did not go unappreciated.
(Pixel, the large renders are awesome, like all your
work, but the back-n-forth scrolling is annoying.
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Yeah it would be expensive. Hopefully I could use the center cutout of the larger black sheet to make the lower black sheet. Depending on how well the sanding can hide a glue joint I may be able to make the blue panels from narrow strips. Otherwise, yeah... very pricey. I was trying to do the math while looking for a plastic store reciept and swerving along canyon roads on my drive home from work tonight. :angry:
As far as the darkness goes.... I'm actually thinking of lighting them from the sides and running blocks of wood the full length between them to keep light from spilling to the monitor. I'm a big far of that CAF cab project with the lit plexi. I think between the frosted top and the painted back it could look insane!
I'd say go for it then. This is the cabinet to end all cabinets, so go all out. :cheers:
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What, no coin door?
Thanks for the renders, it looks great
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the back-n-forth scrolling is annoying.
Sorry! Fixed.
@Timoe- the coin door is one of those tweaks not yet done to the model ;) But I do have one. With blue inserts :)
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It might also be cool to see if you can get scraps of Corian-type material in the colors you want to make the bezel. I doubt those are popular colors with homeowners but a largish countertop specialist that does retail just might have what you want.
I think that would be more compatible with the solid industrial look of the other materials you are using than glowing plexi would.
It would also help to seal this cabinet's fate as the heaviest on the planet. :)
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Thats a fantastic idea!! Would probably look much more like the mockup than plexi would. I'm gonna check the special orders at Home Depot next time I'm there.
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if you can get scraps of Corian-type material
When you said this I first though "rish Corinthian leather". I hope he isn't make a Cordoba themes cabinet :)
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You are dating yourself there SirP! I remember that one too sadly.
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Heh, but that car was made before I was born :)
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YIKES!!! This is the SECOND time rich corinthian leather has been mentioned in this thread. And the second appearance of Ricardo Montalban imagery. That's twice too many. :laugh2:
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This is the cabinet to end all cabinets
;) Hehe
Better not be! I've already started concepting and development on my next cab! Shhhhh.... wife doesn't know. But I really want one of each... a horizontal monitor and a vertical monitor.
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;) Hehe
Better not be! I've already started concepting and development on my next cab! Shhhhh.... wife doesn't know.
You pathetic, pathetic person. I can't believe it! You are going to kill us all.
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Yeah. I've learned a lot about how NOT to manage a project thread. Next go round I'm not gonna start the thread until I've started the project. I also want to design the next cab in a way that doesn't require local woodshops and my dad's tools. If I can remove the multiple month bottlenecks and daunting/elaborate multistage jig craziness, I think I can build the next one in a matter of... um... errr... well, no promises.
Of course, I also have to one up myself so I'm sure it's gonna be a :censored: anyway.
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Heh, but that car was made before I was born :)
Dang. Everytime I think I might not be the oldest :censored: around here, I get my hopes dashed.
:cry:
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You pathetic, pathetic person. I can't believe it!
Got that right.
*tease*... :blah: :blah: The shaded panels are MDF to be bullnosed and finished with metallic automotive paint and clear coat. The vents are backlit aluminum perf panel (similar to what will be behind the rocketsprocket logo) Monitor will be mounted vertically :blah: :blah: :blah: :blah: This should feel like an appliance. Or a car. Or surfboard. Or something similarly polished and solid and shiny. :blah: :blah: I really like the idea of multiple heights for the side panels. Someone posted some renderings a while ago of a concept cab with an outer side panel shaped like flames layered over a lower panel. I'll have to find the link. It was very inspirational stuff.
So like Mission Control, the idea behind this project is "arcade cab as art" ::) *takes self too seriously* But whereas Mission Control focused more on woodworking, this one will focus more on the shape and design of the cabinet sides and their multiple layers and materials.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=49608)
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a couple comments..
*tease*... :blah: :blah: The shaded panels are MDF to be bullnosed and finished with metallic automotive paint and clear coat. The vents are backlit aluminum perf panel (similar to what will be behind the rocketsprocket logo) Monitor will be mounted vertically :blah: :blah: :blah: :blah: This should feel like an appliance. Or a car. Or surfboard. Or something similarly polished and solid and shiny. :blah: :blah: I really like the idea of multiple heights for the side panels. Someone posted some renderings a while ago of a concept cab with an outer side panel shaped like flames layered over a lower panel. I'll have to find the link. It was very inspirational stuff.
Start another thread for this one now.. maybe when your finished it can reach 100+ pages ;)
Mission Control focused more on woodworking, this one will focus more on the shape and design of the cabinet sides and their multiple layers and materials.
focused is past tense... is Mission Control finished?? >:D
I may have missed this in the thread from hell, but did you say that you are doing a custom frontend for this, or using an existing one?
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A customized existing one..... 3D Arcade.
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focused is past tense... is Mission Control finished?? >:D
Heh.. My bad. Shoulda used present perfect. hahaha
:dizzy:
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Here's the CAF backlit plastic link. (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=21886.0)
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So hows it going PH? Any new shots? :)
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Hey AD- Well... I'm holding off posting the latest shots until there's something more interesting to show. I've been making (slow) progress on the marquee box (the top and bottom panel that will hold the marquee) but currently all I've got to show for it are the patterns for cutting the channel to receive the marquee plastic (in the top and bottom panels). And rough cut 2" walnut for the panels themselves. Yesterday I cut and glued up some more walnut to extend the bottom panel. So, like I said... waiting to show something more interesting. :P
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***Momentary Thread HiJack ***
Santoro, I AM older than you and as I recall, I wasn't the oldest one in the "How Old are You" thread.
Heh, but that car was made before I was born :)
Dang. Everytime I think I might not be the oldest :censored: around here, I get my hopes dashed.
:cry:
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Ackghrgh! Would you just BUILD the damn thing?!?!?! :hissy:
I'm going to look into how long it took them to make Mt Rushmore, because it COULDN'T have been this long!!!!
**Okay, so it looks like it took 14 years to make mt Rushmore. So I guess you do have 12 years left... ;D
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Ackghrgh! Would you just BUILD the damn thing?!?!?! :hissy:
I agree.. geez, 24 pages and only a few pieces to show for it.. :blah:
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i am relatively new to the forum. ive only been reading
since about novemberish of '05.
and after 24 ish pages...
im convinced Pixelhugger doesnt exist.
there is no project and its all an elaborate hoax.
the floor was just a distraction.
its all part of a clever plan.
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What the?.... ME? Distract viewers with cheap superfluous pics to hide the lack of progress? I'd never stoop so low... and as far as whether I exist... if not.. how do you explain THIS!!!!?
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=52105)
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Now that's funny...
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:notworthy:
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What the?.... ME? Distract viewers with cheap superfluous pics to hide the lack of progress? I'd never stoop so low... and as far as whether I exist... if not.. how do you explain THIS!!!!?
:applaud:
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I guess I can't complain that I'm not able to look at photos of your completed cab yet. You are definately an idea man. I work for people like you. Great ideas, an inate sense of the aesthetic, brilliant presentation skills..... need a bloody knuckler to see it through to fruition.
I hope that still sounds like admiration. After all, I still do strive to be a designer myself in some sense.
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Mt Mission Control ? The fifth forefather.
LMAO
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Mission Control Project - More design changes and renders - opinions requested
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I heard it took Robert Binkman 12 years to carve that thing. He did not have enough money for rope (cause he used it all in the arcade) So he got all the dental floss he could find and wove himself a net to stand on. Day and night he stood on his net chipping away the rock inch by inch. The day he was to finish he made a horible fatal flaw. He was tapping the stone that would be the track ball. The tapping apparently splintered the rock sending a 24 ft slab of rock resembling a flying saucer towards binkman, and decapited him. When the disk landed on the hill near by and finally skidded to a stop, people started to notice the odd looking engraving on the surface.
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ROTFLMAO :laugh2:
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It's been nearly two months since Pixelhugger has posted an update.
Is the project dead? Man.. that would be disappointing after more than 2 years of tracking this project.
Let's review:
He's got the sides shaped; he's got the bezels done, he's got the marquis done. he's got the garage. Heck, isn't this when projects kick into gear?
I mean, by the time he rolls this out, he'll be too arthritic to play the games! >:D
Come on Pixel.. let's wrap this project up! I really want to see you standing in front of the finished product with the 3DArcade FE up and running!
Don't give up now! You're at the FUN part finally!
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Naw, he will have to wire the thing and my guess is that he will use some sort of crazy wiring scheme where he uses infrared lazer beams with mirrors n such instead of wires. why?? Just because he can. Makes me want to vomit. But after vimiting, I will still eagerly come back in here to see said laser beams.
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Heh.. well I guess a project like this sorta kicks in and out of gear. Make no mistake, it's as alive as ever but progress has been particularly slow lately. Things have ramped way up at work and I'm training for a mountain bike race so progress will continue to be slow until november. The training takes up most of my non family free time on the weekends and makes the rest of the week pretty hectic too. Mebbe I should post my spectacularly underwhelming pics of the marquee base/bottom that I finally got glued up last saturday :blah: Hehe. On a more encouraging note I got another spot in the woodshop lab for the semester starting next week. WOOT! The planer and jointer in the lab will be critical for thicknessing the interior structures which will be dadoed into the sides to hold everything together. Now THAT will be the exciting stage. But alas... still months off. :banghead:
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Who's Pixelhugger?
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Who's Pixelhugger?
I think I bought a hat from him once.
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Yes you did, sir.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=55577)
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Oh, it is supposed to say hat. I have always thought mine was a misprint. Mine says, "All I got was this lousy rash". To think, all that embarassment was for nothing. Well, that's what you get for waiting till the $3 hats came out.
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When will the hat be available I want one :laugh2:
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PixelHugger will probably want to hand weave the fabric for the hats, which means he have to build a custom loom, and raise the Alpacas which will require their own shed with another rocket sprocket logo, etc, etc. ;D
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3 years and 2 days will pixel ever finish?
Will we keep checking back hoping for that illusive update?
Check back next year same cab time same cab channel. :dunno
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Well for what it's worth, I am still so addicted to the project that I'm currently checking this thread from a hotel lobby in Central America.
As I mentioned a bit ago, the progress got (uncharacteristically) slow ::) as I had some other commitments going on. Today marks the last day of all that so I'd expect more progress (read: inching forward) fairly soon. :blah: Um... after I catch up on all the other stuff I'm behind on. :police:
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Your use of walnut on the admin panel inspired me to go with an exotic wood on my current project. Thanks.
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you guys with your 'walnut' this and your 'new zealand' that. all those exotic trees dying! on the other hand there are heaps of mdf trees so they arent missed ;D
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I have no idea how to check, but I'd be willing to guess this this both the oldest active thread and the longest thread anywhere in the forums.
I'm gonna start reviving my old threads for the heck of it - just to have one older. :P
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you guys with your 'walnut' this and your 'new zealand' that. all those exotic trees dying! on the other hand there are heaps of mdf trees so they arent missed ;D
I'm still trying to get some seeds from the money tree he's using for this project.
I threw a few coins in the ground and watered 'em over the summer, but I'm guessing it takes a few years for it to sprout :dunno
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Well for what it's worth, I am still so addicted to the project that I'm currently checking this thread from a hotel lobby in Central America.
As I mentioned a bit ago, the progress got (uncharacteristically) slow ::) as I had some other commitments going on. Today marks the last day of all that so I'd expect more progress (read: inching forward) fairly soon. :blah: Um... after I catch up on all the other stuff I'm behind on. :police:
Woo hoo!!!
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you guys with your 'walnut' this and your 'new zealand' that. all those exotic trees dying! on the other hand there are heaps of mdf trees so they arent missed ;D
I'm still trying to get some seeds from the money tree he's using for this project.
I threw a few coins in the ground and watered 'em over the summer, but I'm guessing it takes a few years for it to sprout :dunno
i think you have to water it with THAT hose, but not with children around. drink plenty of Coke (tm) ;D
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I've finally gotten the upper and lower panels that form the marquee "box" pretty much finished. Because the marquee is "dimensional" I couldn't just cut the usual slot to hold the plastic in place. I needed to cut a wide channel that followed the contour of the top and the bottom of to the marquee. It had to be about 3/4" across to allow for the forward pitch of the plastic. I had to create another template/jig thingie to route the channel. Because the marquee is angled forward I couldn't just trace it's footprint onto MDF for a jig since the actual footprint to cut was about 1" up the face, IE where the platic would exit the channel. Sorry, pretty confusing but importatnt. So I stuck a block as tall as the channel would be deep to find the actual measurement I needed to trace out for a template.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=61295)
Using that measurement I offset a line on MDF to cut along. I then placed my router bit at the edge of the line and screwed down blocks to run the router base along.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=61297)
That left me with a template for the top channel.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=61299)
I flipped the marquee upside down to test the fit.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=61303)
Here is the final top template ready to be used on the walnut top panel.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=61305)
and the 3/4" straight cutting bit in the router. Unlike the blocks used to guide the edge of the router to cut the template, the channel will be cut with the bit following the edge of the template (with a top mounted bearing).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=61307)
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Having learned the hard way earlier on in the project, I decided to cut the channel in two passes.
Pass one
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=61309)
depth of cut mark for pass two:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=61311)
and the final result from two passes:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=61313)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=61315)
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I followed the same procedures for the bottom panel. Veeeeery time consuming. Especially considering it all would have been a single, straight 1/2" cut with practically no setup had the marquee been flat. As with everything else on this project, the simplest things have become massively time consuming (and resource intensive) just to accommodate some crazy non standard dimension/shape/inlay etc.
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The plastic in place on the bottom panel.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=61317)
You can see how deep it sits into the walnut here:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=61319)
You can also see above how my dumb ass "measure once cut twice" mentality resulted in building up the panel. 3 joints no less!
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The backside of the channel. This'll get a wedge stuck in along each side that'll put pressure on the plastic to draw it together and hold it tightly in place. It's removable so I can change the marquee artwork should it ever fade, or should I decide I've been seriously one upped in the artwork category and need to improve it. Pretty likely since I've already redone the art a couple of times. :P Hehe
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=61321)
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Here are both panels in place, yet to be trimmed along the diagonals. The bottom panel will be fixed, dadoed into the cabinet sides, while the top panel will be hinged to allow light replacement and artwork tweaks.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=61325)
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Gratuitous angles.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=61327)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=61331)
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And here are the panels with the diagonals rough cut...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=61335)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=61333)
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And more gratuitous angles.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=61349)
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Not shown in these last pics.... lots of cleanup to the edges with a stationary belt sander to remove the roughness left by the circular saw.
I've also bullnosed all the edges pretty heavily (surprize) so the whole thing is very smooth.
Next up is wet finish sanding (600 grit) with oil to fill the open pores of the walnut. Then I'll stain it to match the previously shown CP trim, so it'll a bit darker and richer than it would otherwise be... and significantly darker that the raw wood seen above.
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Wow. Looking good!
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Nice self portrait in the reflection. Beautiful work. I really like large diameter bullnosed edges. It just invites people to touch it.
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Nice self portrait in the reflection.
Heh. Thanks for noticing. ::)
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Good job taking your time Pixel, I hate the fact that I'm done with my cabinet.
Also, I love walnut.
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I hate the fact that I'm done with my cabinet.
What is this... how do you say.... "done with cabinet"??
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can you get a pic with some big gumballs in there? ;D
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3 years for a marquee...??!! :laugh2:
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If it were me, and i was as close to finished as you are, with as much time invested as this project has got, I'd quit my job just to finish it. >:D
no not really
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Dude that looks tight! I am duly impressed and I cannot wait....as well as many others....to see this hit its completion. This is a marvel amongst our kind.
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Hey AD - good to hear from you!! I'm not on IM at work anymore :badmood: so it's good to errr... see a familiar face.
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subtle, subtle...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=61299)
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subtle, subtle...
heh, I didn't even notice that... but I agree.
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Man, that backlit frosted look is The Sh.... uh The pooh.
Awesome.
You're going to have to print your marquee art on acetate and have plenty of clear and translucent areas to take advantage of that. And light it with a good lamp type.
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Yeah, it'll be lit with a much cooler lamp(s). That yellow tungsten is coming from my floor lamp in the background. :P I'm planning on having mamemarquees print everything. They did such a beautiful job on the CP and I've heard great things about their new marquee backlit film. Super excited to get that installed!
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man. I wish I had more freetime than the few minutes I get to myself when I get up in the morning before I go to work. I get no free time with this new girl friend.. I may have to cut back on her a bit to give myself some time to finish my cab.
I LOVE your cab so far PH!
Neil
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man. I wish I had more freetime than the few minutes I get to myself when I get up in the morning before I go to work. I get no free time with this new girl friend.. I may have to cut back on her a bit to give myself some time to finish my cab.
I LOVE your cab so far PH!
Neil
i actually decided to be celibate while i built my cab :o . worked though, only took a couple of months or so to complete :)
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UPDATES PLEASE!!!
As if you needed another idea running through your head, have you thought about having an embroidery shop do custom barstool covers with your mission control logo on it? You've already gone all out and done hats, keep pushing the limit!
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UPDATES PLEASE!!!
You'll have to wait another 12 months.. :laugh2:
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And here are the panels with the diagonals rough cut...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=61335)
Hey, that looks like me taking the picture. But it isn't, so I don't want to be taking any flack for not posting updates recently.
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I've heard great things about their new marquee backlit film.
Super happy with how it works, much better than any other backlit print I've used before. Doesn't wash out.
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Finally caught up on this... as always I'm in awe.
So many bullnoses, it's like a hot dog factory in there.
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:laugh2:
And more bullnosing to come...
I've got an update to the MiniMarquee which is almost done... and I also redid the NavPanel walnut. The piece I had originally used for the NavPanel (seen finished earlier) was too lightly colored and mottled. It didn't take stain very well and ended up looking really thickly and unnaturally stained. So I found a better board and rerouted it. Another upside to the redo was a cleaner cut so the plastic fits even better. Not really postworthy in itself, but it shows my continued obsession with the project if nothing else. Pics of both will be up later this week once I finish sanding and staining.
After finishing layout lines on the sides next weekend, I hope to be dadoing them a week from sat! After cutting the dados the next step will be the interior structures (the base... monitor shelf etc) and then... gasp... assembly. It's crunch time now since we're hoping to have another baby this year or early next, before which point the project has to be completely finished. The wife agrees and has ceded control of weekend free time (the honey-do list) to the cause. WOOT!!
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The wife agrees and has ceded control of weekend free time (the honey-do list) to the cause. WOOT!!
Well, at least we will forgive putting the focus on the honey-do list if you're trying to have a baby. You can post pics of your wife instead and we'll mentally fill in the "do".
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It's crunch time now since we're hoping to have another baby this year or early next, before which point the project has to be completely finished.
So we've only got another 12 months to wait..? :dunno
Just build the damn thing..!! FFS.. :banghead:
EDIT: Let it not go un-noticed that this is the 1000 post with basically nothing done albeit some drawings and a marquee..
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Build up and/or hype is everything. He's probably fashionably late at functions also. ;) ;D
Just do it.
do it.
do it.
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Proper design is 50% fo the work for a great product.
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I believe Pixelhugger is immortal. He can take his time.
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He is not immortal but he is working on creating a son to carry on the project when he dies 40 years from now.
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It's crunch time now since we're hoping to have another baby this year or early next, before which point the project has to be completely finished.
So we've only got another 12 months to wait..? :dunno
Just build the damn thing..!! FFS.. :banghead:
EDIT: Let it not go un-noticed that this is the 1000 post with basically nothing done albeit some drawings and a marquee..
I think you only read the last 400 pages if you think there's not much done. You need to go to page 876 and start from the beginning.
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:laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2:
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Just added a fully functional real life actual table of contents to the first post of the thread.
I realized that anyone joining the thread in, um..... progress.... would likely only read the last few posts (if that). So it would be easy to miss most of what the project is about. Browsing the whole thread is more than even I (with my project obsession) can handle. So to respond to well intentioned points like Hoopstar's I figured an easy way to summarize the project was in order, since I can't really provided a "Previously on Lost...." backstory summary with each update.
I also though it was time to do this since I'll be ramping up construction and updates over the next few weeks and wanted to provide a sort of subtotal for where the project stands.
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Just added a fully functional real life actual table of contents to the first post of the thread.
I realized that anyone joining the thread in, um..... progress.... would likely only read the last few posts (if that). So it would be easy to miss most of what the project is about. Browsing the whole thread is more than even I (with my project obsession) can handle. So to respond to well intentioned points like Hoopstar's I figured an easy way to summarize the project was in order, since I can't really provided a "Previously on Lost...." backstory summary with each update.
I also though it was time to do this since I'll be ramping up construction and updates over the next few weeks and wanted to provide a sort of subtotal for where the project stands.
Maybe instead of posting... you should be working... This thread started in November of 2003! :scared
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Or maybe people should relax... it's a hobby project, for crying out loud.
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Maybe instead of posting... you should be working...
Heh... saw that one coming. :P
Well I was working actually. As usual, at my day job, which often is also my late into the night job. While I can post/read BYOAC at work, I can't, in fact, do any construction.
Just thought the links might be helpful.
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Maybe you should finish your cabinet when you get good and ready. I'll certainly not be rushing you along.
I do enjoy the updates, conversations, and useful design thoughts you had carried through this saga build, and I would like to see the *blogging* continue.
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Well I was working actually. As usual, at my day job, which often is also my late into the night job. While I can post/read BYOAC at work, I can't, in fact, do any construction.
Just thought the links might be helpful.
You should really consider bringing your project to work - then you can do both!
;D
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I don't understand.
Shouldn't you have discussed your intention to create a Table of Contents? Provided renders of the proposed TOC? Shouldn't the TOC have been created out of something exotic, like Verdana or Tahoma?
:laugh:
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I don't understand.
Shouldn't you have discussed your intention to create a Table of Contents? Provided renders of the proposed TOC? Shouldn't the TOC have been created out of something exotic, like Verdana or Tahoma?
:laugh:
:laugh2:
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So we should get the index in 11 months or so? ;)
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Yah I am sure they wouldn't mind a router table installed in the edit bay; HDCam decks should be able to handle a little MDF dust, right?! ;D
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any plans on an indepth 6 month-long discussion on the fasteners you'll use?
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Shouldn't you have discussed your intention to create a Table of Contents? Provided renders of the proposed TOC? Shouldn't the TOC have been created out of something exotic, like Verdana or Tahoma?
BWAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA!!!!!! :laugh2:
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Shouldn't you have discussed your intention to create a Table of Contents? Provided renders of the proposed TOC? Shouldn't the TOC have been created out of something exotic, like Verdana or Tahoma?
I think you just missed one of his pictures
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All right already...Dude your probably going to get a mamey. So just finish the thing. Even if you don't get it for the wicked cabinet design, you will get it for longest running build thread. Well, you might be behind Drew and Mission, but you'll get it. Who cares about Grammys, it's a MAMEY. Just finish it already. ;D
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Even if you don't get it for the wicked cabinet design, you will get it for longest running build thread.
HAHAHA
Well, it already won a Mamey... for most agravatingly slow build progress.
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All right already...Dude your probably going to get a mamey. So just finish the thing. Even if you don't get it for the wicked cabinet design, you will get it for longest running build thread. Well, you might be behind Drew and Mission, but you'll get it. Who cares about Grammys, it's a MAMEY. Just finish it already. ;D
/me shakes his fist menacingly at MYX
He's working on 4 years, dagnabbit! I've got 3 years to spare!
[cartman] Screw you guys, I'm goin' home! [/cartman]
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All right already...Dude your probably going to get a mamey.
If memory serves, I believe he already has one for this project. Something like, "The biggest tease ever".
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Here is a challenge to everyone. Let's see who can finish building the Mission Control Project before Pixelhugger does. I've already starting the sketching and measurement phase....
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Sept. 1, 2005
let's have contest to see who can build Mission Control before pixelhugger. I've already started the plans....
Mar 15, 2007Let's see who can finish building the Mission Control Project before Pixelhugger does. I've already starting the sketching and measurement phase....
Guess I'm not the only one taking forever to build Mission Control! :laugh2: :laugh2:
HAHAHA Feel my pain! ;)
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Whooohoo, I show up 2years late and I'm still on time to see this thing finish. Well maybe I'll bookmark it and come back in a few months... ;)
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Sept. 1, 2005let's have contest to see who can build Mission Control before pixelhugger. I've already started the plans....
Mar 15, 2007Let's see who can finish building the Mission Control Project before Pixelhugger does. I've already starting the sketching and measurement phase....
Guess I'm not the only one taking forever to build Mission Control! :laugh2: :laugh2:
HAHAHA Feel my pain! ;)
LOL...no joke. I had the sides sketched up but got sidetracked with my current project (which got completed late last year). Rest assured I'll have that project fully sketched up before summer. As for starting....who knows. Someone out there has to have some free time and money and may make use of the plans. Your design is a great idea. Maybe SOMEONE can benefit from it.
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Wife and kids are out of town tonight so I've got all night to dedicate to the project. I don't think this has happened.... umm... ever.
With this huge block of time I've decided to cut into the sides and route the dados that will hold everything together. This is the one part of the project where there is no "do over." I was only able to get the cherry with my dad's help so if I :censored: these cuts up I don't think the project will recover. So I'm literally trembling at the thought. What makes the whole thing so terrifying is (1) having to cut the dados at an angle and (2) ensuring they will line up across the cabinet with each other once the sides are angled outwards. [/drama]
The steps for the night are to
Draw out dado (and a couple of mortise) locations on MDF.
Route completely through the MDF following lines
Trim the MDF into the cab shape using a side panel as a template
Use the MDF as a stencil to layout all the lines on each side to match perfectly.
Build a jig to attach to the base of my router which will angle it propery to cut the dados.
Clamp guides to the sides
Gulp
Route the side panels.
So if all goes well tonight I'll be posting pics triumphantly for tomorrow morning. If something goes wrong I'll be back here ranting and howling in misery.
This is the dado plan
Blue indicates dados green indicates mortises.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=69996)
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ARGH!
Spent the last 3 hours measuring and adjusting the plans.
At this rate the best I'll get done tonight is the MDF template. No way I'll be able to cut the cherry before work tomorrow. :censored: :censored: :censored: :censored:
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so that means a year from now?
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Keep plugging along. I'm sure you'll finish before the sun goes nova.
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Stupid me. Realized the template idea is pointless here. Not only can I measure the two side panels accurately without it, but after removing so much material from the MDF it would bow and flex making it innacurate as a stencil.
Decided to mark a long straight board with the measurements indexed on the edge to easily repeat them across the panels.
Pics later tonight.
Back to the workshop.
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Drew out most of the lines on the cherry for the dados and the navpanel mortise as well. The pics are pretty underwhelming. I think I'll wait until I actually cut the channels to post them.
I'm really disappointed with how little progress I made tonight.
:banghead:
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I figured that you would have been disappointed at the 2 year mark....
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You guys give him a lot of crap for the rate of this project. Given the quality here I'm just glad he's sharing as much of it as he is.
Don't worry about spending a few hours on a couple of different angles of approach... that's better than rushing through and popping the cherry irreversibly.
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True, that. Besides, this is highly enjoyable ;D
(I wonder if he would mind if I would steal that boomerang idea...)
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Well this is sorta what happens when you put so effort into hyping a project instead of actually building one.
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Maybe... maybe he works for MicroSoft?!? :laugh2:
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(I wonder if he would mind if I would steal that boomerang idea...)
That's what it's there for. ;)
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armax really, knock it off already ::)
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(I wonder if he would mind if I would steal that boomerang idea...)
That's what it's there for. ;)
Okay, it's official! We are allowed to steal his idea! :)
Unfortunately, a secret project called P38 will have to go first...
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patrickl, don't get your panties in a bunch. Pixelhugger's a big boy....he can handle some hazing (I'm sure he expected some of it given the timeline)....even if some here can't.
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Well this is sorta what happens when you put so effort into hyping a project instead of actually building one.
::)
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So here is the minimarquee update.
I wanted the marquee to feel inlaid in the walnut the same way the nav panel does, but also wanted it backlit which required floating it. This was the design I settled on which allows me to swap out the artwork down the road.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=70155)
Basically the plastic and walnut get routed with the inlay bit set just like the nav panel except in this case the walnut gets cut completely through and the plastic floats in the center, instead of resting in a recession. To hold the plastic in place I decided to cement 1/4" or so tabs around the edges. A deep rabbet cut on the back of the walnut gives them somethin to press against and allows for a rear piece of plastic to sandwich the art in place. The design allows for the marquee plastic to protrude slightly from the walnut without any visible fasteners. Woot.
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The inlay process and all the template stuff is covered for the navpanel, so I won't repeat any of that explanation. ;) Here are some links if anyone missed it and wants to know.
Navpanel templates (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg505169#msg505169)
NavPanel cutting. Final navpanel with temporary art (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg523689#msg523689)
Here is the minimarquee template, pretty much like the one for the navpanel only narrower.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=70133)
Below is the result of routing out the walnut. The rabbeting bit will be run around the inside edge to give me a recession for the plastic tabs and rear plastic that will hold the art in place.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=70135)
And the result of the rabbeting below....
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=70137)
Next I rounded over the front edges (and later sanded out the burn marks ;) ) You can see the lip created by the rabbet behind the front edge.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=70139)
Next it was back to the jig to route the plastic. This piece was about a half inch thick so I had to make a billion passes.... cleaning out the pixie dust each time.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=70141)
You can see how thick the plastic is by the screwdriver sitting in the hole left behind.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=70143)
Next I cut the plastic tabs and used fancy acrylic glue to fuse them to the sides. I got the sense this stuff would melt your eyes if you were to squeeze the bottle too tightly and get in in your face.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=70145)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=70147)
Backside of the plastic with tabs cemented on.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=70149)
Sitting in the walnut. You can also see the piece of plastic that goes on the back to sandwich everything together.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=70151)
Lots and lots of polishing ahead. I removed some scratches with 600 grit paper, but now I've got to remove what that left behind.... it's always something.
And here's how it looks from the front. Once I get the cleats on the back the plastic will be flush with the walnut.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=70153)
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Wow. This project is definitely worth the wait!
Where does this mini-marquee go on the cab?
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Pixelhugger, don't mind armax. I just think he's jealous. Keep up the good work. I personally think your stretching it out because you love what your doing.
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;D
It goes beneath the big marquee set back right above the bezel. It'll be used a bit like an instruction card. You can see it below.. the strip of blue above the monitor.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=49383)
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i love the control panel :o
take your time ;)
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Pixelhugger, don't mind armax. I just think he's jealous. Keep up the good work. I personally think your stretching it out because you love what your doing.
Personally as long as your making progress Im watching. ;)
Heck my machine isn't even in the design phases yet so keep it up so I can get more ideas.
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Cool :notworthy:
I've been spying ever since I found the site/forums. That really is (will be..) an awesome cab. Still, I'm not sure about my life expectancy .... ;D
KeEp up the great work !!!
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This has to be the coolest cab I've seen :notworthy:
Can't wait for 2009.... when this cab is finished
/me grins >:D
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Can't wait for 2009.... when this cab is finished
So, you really meant 2015? It's really not that far away...
:laugh2:
Anyway, awesome ..we just need more updates :hissy:
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What happened to routing the sides? I'm confused about the order in which the project is proceeding...
1. Cabinet renders
2. Sideart
3. Garage floor
4. Marquee plexi
5. Control panel
6. Side panels (almost teased us into thinking construction had truly begun)
7. Nav panel
It seems like you were set to put the cabinet together when you cut the side panels but then got scared. Maybe it's just me but it seems like you are doing everything else in order to avoid the task of actually building the cabinet. Cmon man, no guts no glory. It's absolutely a beautiful design. Let's see some cabinet work. Everything so far has been great. Take the plunge man...
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..hush...
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sick... just plain sick...
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It seems like you were set to put the cabinet together when you cut the side panels but then got scared. Maybe it's just me but it seems like you are doing everything else in order to avoid the task of actually building the cabinet. Cmon man, no guts no glory. It's absolutely a beautiful design. Let's see some cabinet work. Everything so far has been great. Take the plunge man...
I don't want to route the sides until I am ready to assemble. There are a couple of very important reasons for that.
1- All the dado and mortise locations depend on the horizontal pieces that go in them, so it makes sense to remove any variables with those first.
2- If I were to route the sides out just because they exist, then take time to finish everything that goes in between them, I'd only be giving them more end grain surface area to absorb moisture through while at the same time reducing (however slightly) their rigidity so they can cup, bow or twist. A problem I'm already having to deal with. Routing the sides has no functional purpose until I'm ready to glue up.
You are right in that I very consciously put off the side panel routing until the horizontal structures are done. But not for fear. Well not as far as I know. ::) That said, yes the process makes me nervous because the sides are irreplaceable.
I totally understand people's frustration with the lack of progress. I am absolutely guilty of that and deserve the jokes about when I'll finish. The slow pace frustrates me more than anyone... I can promise you that. ;D
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Not sick .. Just ... perfection. .. Well, it's just around the bend ;
Still, :notworthy:
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;D
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...That said, yes the process makes me nervous because the sides are irreplaceable.
No doubt. Those sides are what, 3" thick old growth from 700 year old trees?
Love your inlay work! Very nice.
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As part of my new push to fund cabinet progress through arcade artwork commissions, I did some work for a fantastically skilled BYOAC member, Cornchip. If you haven't seen what this guy is capable of (http://cornchiparcadeproject.wetpaint.com/) you've missed out on a whole new definition of "building" your own. His project is one of those once in a blue moon bar raising feats of cabinet engineering that leaves us all in the dust. He milled his own illuminated joystick handles and spinner top, and designed and machined his own custom (and beautifully engineered) gears to rotate his monitor. He gives me a serious inferiority complex in the construction department. I did some art for his cabinet in exchange for a bunch of these these incredibly cool palm sized rocketsprocket logos which he waterjet cut from solid stainless steel...about 1/8" thick. Purdy hefty. Not shown here is an additional 8" logo out of the same stainless that will be used as a clock in my workshop. Or maybe a clock in my yet to exist game room. I'm really excited about these! I just love computer controlled industrial cutting machines! If I had this stuff at work I'd never leave. As opposed to not having this stuff at work and still never leaving. :P
One of these goes on the front of the cab as a handle on the flip down keyboard panel as shown in the render below. Another 2 go on the back of the cab covering bolts that secure an access door in place.
Each gets a piece of perf panel recessed a bit below it to add to the dimension.
Aww.... yeeaaaaaaah.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=70349)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=70351)
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The following pics were taken by Cornchip. I've got movies of the process for my website, too!! The last images are taken with his cab in the background. Like I said, he does amazing stuff. Oh, yeah... he also cut his CP overlay out of stainless. :notworthy:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=70353)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=70355)
Cornchips CP in the background:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=70357)
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No doubt. Those sides are what, 3" thick old growth from 700 year old trees?
When you put it like that the treehugger in me feels bad.....
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The funny thing is, since it's already gonna be a MAME machine and thus "can't" be MAME-d, armax' grandkid will buy this at some auction and promptly turn it into a desk or firewood for a camping excursion ;D
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Only if he brings a boom crane with him to move it.
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Those gears would make awesome martial-arts weapons. Pixel, you could become some sort of new uber-villain, and the Rocket-Sprocket Chinese Stars lodged in victim's necks could be your 'trademark.'
And imagine, I don't even read comics. :)
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Those gears would make awesome martial-arts weapons. Pixel, you could become some sort of new uber-villain, and the Rocket-Sprocket Chinese Stars lodged in victim's necks could be your 'trademark.'
And imagine, I don't even read comics. :)
Geese, I was thinking the same thing. :laugh2:
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Those logo's are look'n good. Where'd ya get them? ;)
Cornchip.
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I thought the logo would make an excellent bezel for a simple clock. I decided to make an extra one for myself. The wood backing is African Padauk. It has an amazing red color, even without the finish to bring out the depth. I still need to round up the parts to finish (movement and hands).
Cornchip.
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AWESOME!
I can hardly wait for the mail person to get here!!! Those canoe rivets look niiiiice. Think I'm gonna mount mine on Koa... maybe carve digits in since I won't have the numeral positions on the gear. Can't afford much more that a board foot of that stuff, so it'll be the perfect project to use it on.
Thanks again Cornchip.
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Love the logos. For my first cab my marquee was a piece of steel I had cut on a waterjet with a backlit print behind it, nothing else quite like the effect of the perfectly cut metal.
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Man, this project keeps getting more and more awesome.... I love the little steel logos! Will you sell me a couple?
Last night I was thinking about your cab (not sure why) and I had an idea. When your cab is finally DONE, you should rename it to....
MISSION ACCOMPLISHED
;D
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I am constantly in Aw of this project. PH you will go down as a legend in this hobby. ;)
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Hey AD!
Long time no hear!
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I am constantly in Aw of this project. PH you will go down as a legend in this hobby. ;)
I have to agree. Though, I have been impatient about the finished result, I have totally enjoyed watching the inventiveness of the thing.
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I thought the logo would make an excellent bezel for a simple clock. I decided to make an extra one for myself. The wood backing is African Padauk. It has an amazing red color, even without the finish to bring out the depth. I still need to round up the parts to finish (movement and hands).
Cornchip.
Looks great, but wouldn't it have been better to position the rivets in the "number" places for a clock, so they could pull double duty as rivets and represent the 12 hours? It's so close, it just seems odd you wouldn't have lined them up that way (what do I know though).
I am currently making a clock (we just carved a Mayan calendar with our CNC machine for fun, and figured we may as well make a clock out of it). We have it on a 2' pine table top though, so we have to find a good clock movement and some long hands to fit it. It was a lot of fun to cut, but I don't think I'd ever use pine for a project that detailed again in the future (too soft, many of the details kind of "folded" over on themselves while cutting).
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Count again, there is exactly 12 rivets. ;D
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I thought the logo would make an excellent bezel for a simple clock. I decided to make an extra one for myself. The wood backing is African Padauk. It has an amazing red color, even without the finish to bring out the depth. I still need to round up the parts to finish (movement and hands).
Cornchip.
Looks great, but wouldn't it have been better to position the rivets in the "number" places for a clock, so they could pull double duty as rivets and represent the 12 hours? It's so close, it just seems odd you wouldn't have lined them up that way (what do I know though).
Ummm.....whuh? :dizzy: Mebbe lay off the paint thinner for a bit or summink?
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=13118.0;attach=70443;image)
Mebbe you've gotten too used to your digital watch and can't remember exactly how the numbers position themselves on your clocks? :dunno
;)
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WOO HOO!
Just bought the Betson Imperial 27" arcade monitor and am leaving work right now to go pick it up! Been waiting for this purchase for YEARS!!!!! :)
Best. Lunch break. Ever.
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Niice. That almost beats lunch at the nudie bar.
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LA TRAFFIC :banghead: :angry:
I just now got back from Betson. 3 1/2 hour trip to go 30 miles and back. So much for "local."
Betson was great. They had an arcade game showroom full of cabs a couple of pinballs and a pool table. I kept thinking what it would've been like to see that place as a kid back in the 80's packed with Williams and Atari games. *drifts off in thought*
I picked up the 27" Betson brand new for $369 plus tax. No Wells Gardner reliability nightmares or crummy UPS shipping damage to worry about. Niiiiiiice. Now I can finish the bezel and mounting plans I've been working on with actual reliable measurements. Long time coming.
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The 401 and QEW highway corridor can be the same if not worse than LA traffic. The greater Toronto area is reported to have the highest vehicle per hour flow rates in all of North America. In places the highway is 12 to 24 lanes wide. This sucker is huge. Stay away form Toronto, the place is crazy.
Cornchip.
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Man, I coulda used an extra of 9 of those lanes today.
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The 401 and QEW highway corridor can be the same if not worse than LA traffic. The greater Toronto area is reported to have the highest vehicle per hour flow rates in all of North America. In places the highway is 12 to 24 lanes wide. This sucker is huge. Stay away form Toronto, the place is crazy.
Cornchip.
And sometimes, no matter how hard to you try to stay to the left, you still end up on the damn QEW.
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The greater Toronto area is reported to have the highest vehicle per hour flow rates in all of North America.
Cornchip.
At least it's flowing, I think LA probably has about as many cars on the road, they just don't move for more than an hour.
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The 401 and QEW highway corridor can be the same if not worse than LA traffic. The greater Toronto area is reported to have the highest vehicle per hour flow rates in all of North America. In places the highway is 12 to 24 lanes wide. This sucker is huge. Stay away form Toronto, the place is crazy.
Cornchip.
And sometimes, no matter how hard to you try to stay to the left, you still end up on the damn QEW.
:cheers:
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After saying how bad Toronto traffic can be, I ended up going right into the heart of the city today. My wife wanted to go to the Home Show they had at the CNE. Needless to say, in the picture we are stopped dead with traffic whizzing past. What a place.
Cornchip.
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Should have gotten off at York or Yonge and come at it from the other side ...
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I should have taken Jameson Ave (coming from the West) and then used Lake Shore Blvd to get to the CNE. My mistake. :-\
I like to stay in the Hamilton/Niagara region when ever possible. I did throw in a secondary trip that my wife did not expect. There was a monthly arcade auction at a place called Starburstcoin. I didn't see much there other than a nonworking Centipede cab. I'd like to try a restoration eventually.
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Coming from the other side used to get you better, faster parking (I lived at Yonge and Queens Quay for a few years).
Now I am sorry I missed the auction yesterday -- I now live about 5 minutes north of Starburst, but had a birthday party to attend (at least it had vids and two almost-working pins).
Cheers
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Sorry for the lack of updates....
For anyone interested I'm selling off the (still new) illuminated pushbuttons on my NavPanel. Complete with graphics if desired.
I've decided to replace them with flush mount style to better compliment the flush inlaid look of the panel.
Offer thread here. (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=67835.msg688990#msg688990)
On an unrelated note, I'm nearly finished with the custom 4 layer bezel for the monitor and have completed the drive mount for the slimline DVD, so pics on that stuff soon.
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Pixelhugger,
I'm new to these forums and just spent awhile reading through this entire thread. ROCK ON man. I'm in the process of planning my first arcade and you have been a huge inspiration. You have taken your hobby to a new level.
I can't wait to see continued progress on this. I know people are bitching and moaning about how long it is taking you, but if that's what it takes for perfection you gotta do it.
My dad always told me, if you're gonna do something, do it right. You've definitely personified that mantra!
Alright, enough asskissing from me.
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Thanks! ;D My hat is off to anyone who has the attention span to read through this behemoth. In the end I think it's all going to be woth the wait despite the flaq I take for the slow progress. Each completed part has far exceeded my expectations and the upcoming bezel is looking drop dead gorgeous. But then I'm heavily biased. >:D
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So yeah. Howz it going PH? Long time no see bro. :)
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Heh. Well, I've spent the last few days resisting the temptation to post an update. My wife and kids were outta town from last Thursday to Saturday and I was determined to finish the bezel I've been working on and get the sides prepped for glue up. I figured I'd have the bezel done Thursday. But it ended up taking every hour of free time Thu, Fri, and Sat just to finish polishing the bezel and painting a small trim piece for it. To get the scratches off the face of the plexi from the bullnosing I had to buy insanely overpriced fine grit sandpaper and polish using 9 grits from 1500 to 12000. That's a total of 9 sanding passes on 32 linear feet. Followed by two polishing passes with chamois and 2 liquid compounds! :dizzy: (I did try flame polishing on a scrap piece ... which now looks like a burned campfire marshmallow. Apparently I still suck at that, Dave. :hissy:) Anyhow.... at length the sanding worked and everything looks great. I'll post pics once I finish cementing the bezel together. Unfortunately my wife took the camera with her, so all my pics from the last few days are lame-o camcorder stills.
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To get the scratches off the face of the plexi ...... (I did try flame polishing on a scrap piece ... which now looks like a burned campfire marshmallow. Apparently I still suck at that, Dave. :hissy:)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=13118.0;id=14035;image)
Flame Polishing Info at the end of the video (http://www.tapplastics.com/info/video_detail.php?vid=15&format=windowsmedia&)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=13118.0;id=14035;image)
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Wow. That video was informative and entertaining. Now I know what your smiley is whistling..
"T..t..t..t...t.. Tap.... TapPlastics."
If only face polishing were as simple as edge polishing ;)... *sigh* But then if I had followed that video... maybe I could have flame polished the bullnose and not needed to do the face. *drifts off in 20/20 hindsight.* :'(
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Man, 9 different grades of paper. I hope you like the finish after that effort. Couldn't you use some sort of electric buffing wheel for that? I look forward to the pics.
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Well in retropect I should've bought the 4" disc paper for my random orbit sander. Instead I got the 3x4" mini sheets and, well.... did it by hand.
The result of the bezel layers is actually very similar to your TimeSink project. When I saw your bezel post I was shocked cause it looked so much like what I had laying all over the workshop. I noticed you're lighting slots above and below the monitor. Do you think that light in the foreground is going to be distracting? I'd originally been thinking of edge lighting the 2 colored plexi panels, but decided against it when I saw how bright they already are. If your lighting scheme works out without being distracting I may rethink my decision. You'll have to let me know!
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All this jibber jabber sure is nice and all, but describing your current bezel is just a tease.
Where are the :pics
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The result of the bezel layers is actually very similar to your TimeSink project. When I saw your bezel post I was shocked cause it looked so much like what I had laying all over the workshop. I noticed you're lighting slots above and below the monitor. Do you think that light in the foreground is going to be distracting? I'd originally been thinking of edge lighting the 2 colored plexi panels, but decided against it when I saw how bright they already are. If your lighting scheme works out without being distracting I may rethink my decision. You'll have to let me know!
I'll let you know. The way it is now, I have one strip on the CP that should only be bright to the 4 year olds (very low). The two other strips on the bezel run vertical, left & right of the monitor. The faces are frosted, not polished, giving off a soft light. If it turns out to be too bright, I will increase the values on the resistors. If that doesn't work, I may try pointing the Plexiglas 45 degrees outward (increasing the angle decreases the brightness.) If that doesn't work I'll either punt, or try something else.
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It'd be great if you could (have an FE dev) add support for dimming the leds when a game is launched. Pipe dream, maybe, but it sure would have a theatrical effect. ;)
pics? PICS? >:D
Should be an overload of them in the next couple days. :angel: Just gotta finish the paint on a trim piece. For some reason it's puckering on every coat. Like tiny vericose veins only not on legs. And not blue. *shudders* I keep sanding it out and it keeps reappearing. :hissy: If it happens again tonight, I'm going to ditch the gloss paint for flat. If that doesn't work I'll ditch the flat for some of that faux finish textured stuff. *crosses fingers*
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I just wanted to chime in and let you know how much I look forward to updates on this incredible project. Looking forward to the upcoming pics!
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Thanks Mountain. Thats good to hear.
Its been such a long process I feel like lots of people must have lost interest by now. I know I would have if I weren't so :censored: obsessed with it.
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I'm an on-again/off-again reader/contributor and whenever I come back from a little hiatus, I look for this thread first. :cheers:
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It'd be great if you could (have an FE dev) add support for dimming the leds when a game is launched. Pipe dream, maybe, but it sure would have a theatrical effect. ;)
I've been struggling with that idea and am looking into options. I'd like to have some cool motion effect and/or control from the PC. I'm too cheap to buy a LED wiz and would rather learn how to build one myself.
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Thanks Mountain. Thats good to hear.
Its been such a long process I feel like lots of people must have lost interest by now. I know I would have if I weren't so :censored: obsessed with it.
Some people even hate you for it.
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Hmmm.... LED wiz. Didn't think of that potential for lighting the bezel. Must. Look. Into.
For the longest time I've thought the ultimate PC to cab control would be an actuator to flip the 4 way/8 way lever on a t-stick based on a selected game's joystick config. :blah:
Zakk - I hate me for it too. :banghead:
The last two nights I've painted and repainted and rerepainted the trim piece I've been working on. Always with the same puckered result. Decided it's the way the gloss paint is reacting to very tiny patterns in the wood. Even tried a skim coat of wood filler to help. Didn't work. Tonight I'm abandoning the gloss for a textured spray paint. Hopefully it'll have a powder coated metal feel. That'd probably look better than the gloss anyway.
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Pixel
How about some gratutious PICTURES!
Seriously I love checking on this project for the last 2 years. :laugh2: or more?
You'll just have to lock yourself in your garage for a few weeks to finish.
I'll even send pizza.
What's your favorite topping.
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Thyme.
I can never get enough of it. :P
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Thyme.
I can never get enough of it. :P
*groan*
;D
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Previously on Mission Control....
After comparing the thin plastic Happ bezel to the super thick solid wood of the sides I decided to make a custom bezel for the cab that would feel more substantial and... errr.... custom.
Here is the Photoshop concept mockup.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83169)
I was going to hit up a very generous BYOACer for some CNC work to make the bezel, but I couldn't get the blue panels in anything under 4x8' without shipping them across the country and back. So I decided to save the CNC for something else and went at it on my own. I wanted the entire thing to feel polished and machined regardless of the fact I was doing it with hand held power tools. The biggest problem I faced creating a curved surface to accurately sit flush against the *very* curved monitor surface.
First step was to print out the design I had laid out in Illustrator. Each panel of the bezel got its own template starting with one properly sized for the monitor glass with each addition panel about 3/4" bigger than the one beneath. Each panel opening is angled (wider at the top, narrower at the bottom) to match the toenailing angle of the cabinet sides.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83083)
Next I cut the templates out of MDF using guides I screwed on. I cut the curved sections with a jigsaw.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83085)
I was really concerned that the little fluctuations in the lines from my hand held cuts would be obvious when transferred to the plastic. So I set each finished template on a sheet of paper and traced it. That let me see where any wobbles needed to be sanded out. Especially where the straight router cuts met the "freehanded" jigsaw curves.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83087)
To help the plastic routing go smoothly I rough cut the plastic to within a half inch or less of the template with a jigsaw.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83089)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83091)
Then I routed the plastic against the templates.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83093)
While it isn't *quite* as messy as routing MDF, I get the sense I'm poisoning myself even faster with the vapors the acrylic gives off.
Next, I flipped it over to round the edges using the MDF as a guide for the bearing... The roundover bit was large enough to completely round the edge.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83095)
I guess this is the point at which I should have flame polished since there were no scratches on the face. Like an idiot I took sand paper to the edge, with each pass extending further and finally overlapping the face in certain sections.
Finally I polished them back to glassy goodness which took many hours....days actually....and 9 grits of super fine special order magic sandpaper.
The most intimidating part of the bezel design was to shape it to follow the convex curves of the arcade monitor. To do this, I traced the horizontal and vertical curves from a Happ 27" bezel to a couple of narrow boards.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83097)
Then I cut the profile into them, sanded out imperfections and used a flush trim bit to create a copy of each. I use these to force the lowest face of the bezel into a convex shape that matches the monitor glass.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83107)
I painted them black in case they would be seen and attached acrylic strips to the top to allow for easy cementing to the bezel.... not realizing at the time they wouldn't be flush with the bezel to allow for cementing once the plastic was bent beneath them. So I had to shim them by measuring how far the bent plastic forced them away from the panel they would be attached to, then cutting a thing piece of wood to match.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83099)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83105)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83143)
You can see how these arches pull the plastic into shape below.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83119)
[imghttp://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83122;image[/img]http://I thought these arches would sit back far enough from the opening in the bezel to be pretty much unseen. In fact they sit so close, and push the innermost bezel so far down you can see it all very clearly. The following pic shows the problem. In its final form there are three larger panels that sit on top of this one, but regardless all these structures and the corner edge of the inner bezel were in plain view.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83159)
Soooo... back to the drawing board to make an "inner trim frame" to hide it all.. This inner frame had to have the same curvature, so I copied the curves from the arches into MDF, extended them to run the full length of the inner panel and cut thing 1/4" strips of poplar to match.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83109)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83111)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83115)
I glued them together into a frame and added tiny woodscrews to stabilize the joints.
Since this inner frame would be very visible, I didn't want it to detract from the machined look of the plexi. I escpecially didn't want it to look homemade or wooden. I wanted to avoid the look of the simple butt joint the frame had.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83113)
So I cut the edges off a long piece of cove molding from Home Depot leaving only the curved center portion behind... and thankfully my fingers as well, since this was a kind of dicey cut on my tablesaw, Mr. Crappy. I sacrificed the family coloring time markers for the greater good to clamp and glue the curves into place, then I used Dap Plastic Wood to smooth the transition and sanded the bejeesus out of it.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83141)
As mentioned early in the thread, the painting too forever. At first I was set on using gloss paint to best match the plexi. Since I just couldn't perfect it I retreated to a textured paint, and I think the result is actually far better than the gloss would have been anyway. It really looks like power coated metal.
Here is the painted frame in place hiding the corners of the inner panel and the faces of the rough looking arches.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83125)
[(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83161)
Next I glued the inner panel assembly (with the arches attached) and the inner trim frame resting on top to the back of the next larger panel. As I mentioned I had to shim them to be flush with the flat panel it was getting glued to.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83163)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83127;image)
Here you can see the edge of the inner trim frame hiding the arch ugliness in all its powder coated like glory.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83131)
You can also see the thin panels of 1/8" acrylic I had cemented to the face of the blue panel. This allows the panel above it to be cemented to it, but float offset above.
Next I cemented the dark blue panel on top of the light blue panel also with 1/8" strips on top. Finally I cemented the top most black panel to the dark blue panel. I used a slow setting viscous plastic cement to allow me to reposition and fudge the panels around into alignment. That stuff stunk so bad I had both garage doors open, the side door open and a filter cartridge respirator on... and still got a headache. Didn't feel right the rest of the night. But hey.... Bezel done!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83175)
This is the lower edge of the bezel. Super tasty.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83147)
And the lower right corner. Also much tasty. You can see how much that vexxing inner trim piece add to the look.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83149)
Concept to completion.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83167)
I still need to clean all the fingerprints and smudges off. The sunlight really highlights those as does seeing this next the the Photoshop mockup.
I test fit the bezel against the actual monitor to spectacular flushness. I'll post a pic of that when I can get it in good light. Thing. Of. Beauty.
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Let me be the first to congratulate you on your newly found progress. Way to go!
Cornchip.
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Thanks! :cheers:
It's slow going. Behind every update of mine is a smouldering line of failures, setbacks and frustrations. With the bezel particularly, I felt like I was working against some magic self replicating punishment from a Greek myth. Every task I completed seemed to result in a new one springing up unexpectedly to take it's place. It took longer to paint that inner trim piece than the exterior of my house.
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:applaud: Damn that looks sweet!
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Wow, it's almost like you're trying to build an arcade cabinet. 8)
Very nice as always. Do you have a rendering of what your new Nav panel will look like with the recessed buttons? I kind of hate that you're changing from the other buttons as I really liked that aspect of the cabinet.
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Thanks!
Maybe going out on a limb here, but if you liked the previous I think you'll love the new one. ;D It has everything that's great about the original but flush mounted now. ;D I'll post an image of it with the new drive mount...
BTW... the original unused buttons are for sale/trade. With artwork. Any takers? :P
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Unique Design.
Quality Artwork.
Meticulous Attention to Detail.
Most of all - Suspense.
This project most assuredly has it all, but I went to the doctor recently, and he confirmed that the suspense is killing me. :P
Cool stuff as always. :cheers:
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You forgot Mount Rushmore and Ricardo Montalban, man.
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:cheers:
just one word: Beautiful :applaud:
Thanks for the update...always a pleasure to read your work in progress... ;)
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Good god. :notworthy: :notworthy:
I can't believe how awesome this is.
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[will ferrell]I can't believe how awesome that response is.[/will ferrell] :)
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It took longer to paint that inner trim piece than the exterior of my house.
Tell us all that you're at least done with THAT project! ;)
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Painting exterior.... yes.
House... never. :dunno
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You suck.
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That is one sweet bezel PH. No wonder your project is taking so long. :cheers:
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What type of buttons are you using for your nav panel? I'm specifically interested in the smaller ones that make up the curved buttons in the middle... Thanks!
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Those are Happ Medium size Round Illuminated pushbuttons. (http://www.happcontrols.com/pushbuttons/5400046x.htm)
The ones you see in the thread were just bought by McCoy178. (Enjoy!) I've decided to use the flush mount kind since they go better with my inlaid plexi. The downside to the flush mount kind is that the small size (the only ones that would fit in my navpanel arch) are MUCH smaller than what I had, so the emulator names are gonna be a bit on the tiny side. :'(
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I've decided to use the flush mount kind since they go better with my inlaid plexi. The downside to the flush mount kind is that the small size (the only ones that would fit in my navpanel arch) are MUCH smaller than what I had, so the emulator names are gonna be a bit on the tiny side. :'(
I can almost picture it. What I need is... PICTURES!!! ;D
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Those are Happ Medium size Round Illuminated pushbuttons. (http://www.happcontrols.com/pushbuttons/5400046x.htm)
The ones you see in the thread were just bought by McCoy178. (Enjoy!) I've decided to use the flush mount kind since they go better with my inlaid plexi. The downside to the flush mount kind is that the small size (the only ones that would fit in my navpanel arch) are MUCH smaller than what I had, so the emulator names are gonna be a bit on the tiny side. :'(
$7.15 each! Grrr... my next project is getting VERY expensive...
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Yeah, at $7 each x 13 it was really hard to justify them in the first place. I had to duck when I told my wife recently that after buying them all that time ago, I was going to do it all over again to replace them before even using them.
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Yeah, at $7 each x 13 it was really hard to justify them in the first place. I had to duck when I told my wife recently that after buying them all that time ago, I was going to do it all over again to replace them before even using them.
I hope - just for grins and giggles - that somewhere you have scribbled on a scrap piece of paper all the expenses you've incurred for this project. I promise never to tell your wife, but after 3 years of following this thread I'm too curious not to ask.
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The number "eleventy" comes to mind.
Make sure to include your game storage facility with the polished concrete floor ;)
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Looking good. It's a shame that me nor my children will get to see this cab completed in our lifetime. ;)
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Looking good. It's a shame that me nor my children will get to see this cab completed in our lifetime. ;)
:laugh2:
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The Great Pyramid of Giza didn't take this long to build. And they didn't even have CAD or Photoshop.
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You suck.
Yup.
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You suck.
Yup.
And one more time for the hat trick.
Seriously though. Great stuff :applaud:
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Prepping for this weekend's update on the drive mount. The mount has been done for a while, but I've really wanted to finish the artwork and staining for the rest of the (rebuilt) navpanel in order to show how it all comes together.
This was another one of those parts of construction that had me intimidated for a long time. I spent hours searching online for an off the shelf mounting bracket for these slimline drives, but the best I could find were entire PC cases. I finally resigned myself to making the part and after thinking through the concept came up with the following approach. After putting the idea on paper it seemed pretty staightforward but the thing really had me stumped for a loong time. Of course within minutes of posting this someone is gonna post a link to a $2 bracket I could have used.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83337)
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Dude, why'd you go that route? You shoulda went to Lowes, and in their plumbing department, there's this $2 bracket that you coulda.....
;D (http://farm2.static.flickr.com/1207/1289986564_18fc13cfe0_o.gif)
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Here is the finished drive mount. The bracket on the right side had to be shorter than the left to allow for the funky drive overhang.
No local retailers carried the super tiny machine screws (1-72?) to attach the angle bracket to the existing threaded holes in the drive case. So I cracked open (literally) my old dead Powerbook and found a handful were used for both it's slot load drive and LCD frame. There is a place called MicroMark online that carries these super small screws, but I wasn't sure of the exact size and didn't want to pay and wait.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83492)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83496)
To mount the drive to it's plastic sled, I put a piece of paper along the side of the drive, poked a pen through into the mounting holes and used that paper to mark the hole locations in the angle bar. Then I drilled the bar and screwed it on to the left side of the drive. I repeated the procedure for the right side of the drive. Because the holes on the right side were considerably higher I first placed the angle bar along the side with the drive sitting level supported by the left bracket, as it would be once mounted and marked a line where the holes should go on the bracket. Then I aligned the paper template with that line and drilled. I was pretty surprised that everything lined up correctly. Then I attached a bracket to the front edge of the plastic.
I built a small mounting block that could remain permanently screwed into the back of the NavPanel with the machine bolts mounted inside it. It was very important to me the the drive be easily removable for service/upgrades/removal of accidental token insertion etc.) I mounted the drive to this block with wing nuts to allow it to be easily detached without a direct line of sight.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83498)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83500)
From the front, the drive aligns with the slot in the nav panel plexi.... no fasteners visible. The artwork is all temporary-- printouts from my inkjet. The final art will be printed at mamemarquees.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83502)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83512)
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More finished navpanel shots.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83504)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83510)
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Wow PH,
really nice nav panel!!!!
Can you tell me what kind of cd drive is that? I scrolled through your previous posts and didn't find it... :dunno
Jay :cheers:
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Panasonic CW8123B
But I think the 8124 is the currently available model.
http://www.logicsupply.com/categories/cd_dvd_drives?referrer=googleAd&kw=cw-8123&nw=search&cr=788196865&pl=&gclid=COiozOuDpo4CFQc-YAodukabRw
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Now that is NICE :applaud:
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Panasonic CW8123B
But I think the 8124 is the currently available model.
http://www.logicsupply.com/categories/cd_dvd_drives?referrer=googleAd&kw=cw-8123&nw=search&cr=788196865&pl=&gclid=COiozOuDpo4CFQc-YAodukabRw
Can get a good deal on a slot loading dvd from mp3car. They do CarPC stuff.
Just thought you guys might want to know:
http://store.mp3car.com/Panasonic_Slot_Load_DVD_ROM_CD_RW_CW_8124_p/opt-002.htm (http://store.mp3car.com/Panasonic_Slot_Load_DVD_ROM_CD_RW_CW_8124_p/opt-002.htm)
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I had to duck when I told my wife recently that after buying them all that time ago,
"when I told my wife"... Now there's your problem.
Thanks for the writeup on the bezel.
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Looks good. You kept the artwork which is what I always thought was the most impressive part about the buttons. I agree with you that the recessed buttons look even more classy. Nicely done.
What's next to build before assembling the cabinet?
Also, you said you are using a MAC as the computer inside? Are you still going to use a Mac? If so, do you have a way to make the VGA card output at CGA frequency/resolution? If not, please get a PC and an ArcadeVGA card. With so much detail to the cabinet, you really need the authentic look of the CGA resolution of games on the Betson monitor.
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Yeah, they definitely go better with the flush inlaid plexi. Although the raised buttons have a cool atari cone like feel to them. This particular application was better suited for the flush mount however.
The computer will be a PC. Partly so I can run 3Darcade as the FE and partly because I am determined to maintain the authentic picture from the AVGA.
Next steps are pretty easy, until it comes to dadoing the sides at an angle. I have to finish all the horizontal structures that get glued into the final assembly. So I've got to extend the bottom panel of the marquee box, and build "drawer rings" for the bottom, middle and top sections as well as a face frame like structure for the front and a rear panel for the back to keep everything solid and hold the massive weight of the canted sides. All those are easy, and will likely just be plywood rectangles since they will be completely hidden in the final cabinet. I think I posted a pic of the dado plan back a ways. :P
I've also decided to trim the edges of the sides with a furniture trim bit to give them a wide smooth radius/arc. And I gotta install the side art. So, yeah.. theres plenty left before glueup I guess.
Insert "yikes it's gonna be another decade before this is done" comment here. :angry: Hopefully these more straightforward processes won't trip me up for months at a time like the unorthodox stuff has.
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It's good to see more consistent progress.
Is the blue plastic on your bezel translucent? That would look cool side lit. Is it too late to add another layer of clear plastic, side lit with blue LED's?
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It's good to see more consistent progress.
Is the blue plastic on your bezel translucent? That would look cool side lit. Is it too late to add another layer of clear plastic, side lit with blue LED's?
Hey! Don't slow him down with new ideas, he'll never get this done! ::)
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Here are some pics of the bezel against the monitor glass... how it'll look when mounted.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83838)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83840)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83844)
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Coder- Yeah it is fairly translucent. Unfortunately the lighter blue is translucent enough to allow shadows from the shims to interfere in the lighting. I actually had to put a piece of cardboard above the bezel in these photos to keep the ambient light from illuminating that. It's really too bad, because lighting the panels would look amazing.
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Man, that looks amazing. Great job.
... lighting the panels would look amazing.
;D Stay tuned...
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Coder- Yeah it is fairly translucent. Unfortunately the lighter blue is translucent enough to allow shadows from the shims to interfere in the lighting. I actually had to put a piece of cardboard above the bezel in these photos to keep the ambient light from illuminating that. It's really too bad, because lighting the panels would look amazing.
Could you put some sort of opaque treatment on the back of the 'bottom' layer and light it from the sides like Coder said? It probably wouldn't be bright, but I think you could swing a 'cool glow."
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Nice work Pixel! Getting a real retro vibe from that monitor bezel. :)
Love the admin panel too. I know some people don't care for them but I think they add a lot to a cabinet.
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I can tell you have a great camera, but it is the subject that makes or breaks a shot.
Unbelievable dude. :notworthy:
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:o
That panel is gorgeous :notworthy:
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:applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
The thing I like most about this project is that not matter how insane I might feel some times, I will NEVER be this insane. The craftsmanship is beyond that of most of us mere mortals. Seriously! I'm glad you've been able to dedicate yourself to building this cab. I can only imagine the chaos that would be unleashed upon the world, were you to not have this hobby. :dizzy:
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Not bad ;D
Anyway, how did you actually do (and finish) all the bezel plexi curves? Too smooth :hissy:
You'll surely fix it in the mix, but I couldn't resist:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83512)
Anyway,
AWESOME :notworthy:
psychotech
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Whatchu talkin bout Willis?
;)
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I have been out of the arcade scene for awhile and thought I would take a peek here at your progress.
It's looking bloody fantastic!
All your plans and visions are really starting to take shape. :applaud:
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All I want to say is... "where are the oops'es?" This thing melts my brain!
I'd like to count how many times the words "unbelievable" or "fantastic" are posted in this thread ;D
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;D
Well if you mean the "oopses" throughout the project, they lie in smouldering heaps all over my garage waiting to be recycled as scrap materials. The CP, navpanel and marquee were all built 2-3 times.
If you mean the "oopses" on the drive mount and bezel... well, I got lucky on those pieces. They're some of the few that don't have expensive twins in my garage junk pile. :P
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Random Q: Where did you get the blue plastic panels for the bezel?
Any more progress? :cheers:
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Any more progress? :cheers:
It's only been about a month and a half! You can't expect any progress this soon!
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I got all the plexi at an acrylic store here in Santa Monica called Solter Plastics. I think most acrylic or plastics stores would carry it. Google plexiglas and see where the local places are. The only drawback is that most places will charge for a full 4'x8' sheet for the less common colors unless they have remnants. That forced me to go with a different hue of blue for the lighter panel, since I otherwise would have had to buy the 32 square feet... the price for 4 sq ft was painful enough so I bought what they had left over from another job.
Progress has been limited to those time consuming but unimpressive tasks I have to finish before I can glue up. Recently I've been working on trimming sections of the side panels where the original routing had left a few sections blow out. That and sanding down uneveness in the panels along glue joints. Painfully slow going.
And then there's the pregnancy with twins to contend with. Upside to that is that I absolutely have to finish the entire cabinet by march. I may actually have to take vacation days at work to complete it. :cry:
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Congrats on the twins! Wow that's going to be crazy!!
Thanks for the info on the plastic. I'm thinking about using a piece for the bezel on my next cabinet rounded over like yours but I'd need the plastic to be black. I'll look around - what are we talking for a sheet? I spent $60 per sheet on the birch plywood...*sigh* this is one expensive hobby...
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Black is more widely available and in demand so the store may be willing to cut a sheet without waiting for a remnant. You're probably looking around 7 to 9 bucks per square foot for 1/4" thick.
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Twins...your the man! :)
Cronchip.
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And then there's the pregnancy with twins to contend with. Upside to that is that I absolutely have to finish the entire cabinet by march. I may actually have to take vacation days at work to complete it. :cry:
mouah ah haha haaaaa!
We now have 2 options for the Mission control timeframe
November 2003 - March 2008 :applaud:
or
November 2003 - March 2028 (project completed by the twins, just before leaving the parent house) :laugh2:
Congrats on the twins. This is fabulous news!!!
Jay :cheers:
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Heh, yeah Jay.... I'm desperately trying to avoid the latter timetable. As it stands now, once I get the website up I'll actually be able to dedicate at least a couple pages to Mission Control: The Early Years. *sigh*
On another note... I'm really really excited for my latest acquisition. JMB noticed my posts in Ponyboy's thread and let me know he had 20 leaf switch adapters he wasn't using. Since it seems these may be out of Ponyboy's stock for a long time (maybe forever???) I was thrilled to pick them up from JMB at cost. With the 17 buttons on my CP I can now go 100% leaf switch!! Combined with the WICO joysticks I have realized my personal goal of zero microswitch tolerance. :P Thanks JMB.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=36770.0;attach=37891)
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I've read through most of this amazing and monsterous thread, but can't figure out how you made the cd eject on a button press... what's the secret?
by the way, amazing project. looking at it makes me want to never do anything ever again. ;)
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what's the secret?
I plan on using something like this. (http://www.filebuzz.com/fileinfo/35286/CD_Eject_Pro.html)
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Looking good as always.
I have to say though, Knievel would have had this project done in 3 days. ;D
(Shameless attempt at speeding this up!)
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Actually I got frustrated with this thread and went ahead and built a clone of this cabinet last weekend.
I will wait until Pixel posts his completed project though. I don't want to ruin the ending for him. ;D
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Man that was cold.
:laugh2:
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Introducing Knievel's "Woody Control" :applaud:
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what's the secret?
I plan on using something like this. (http://www.filebuzz.com/fileinfo/35286/CD_Eject_Pro.html)
how about this?
http://www.alexnolan.net/software/commandline.htm
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On another note... I'm really really excited for my latest acquisition. JMB noticed my posts in Ponyboy's thread and let me know he had 20 leaf switch adapters he wasn't using. Since it seems these may be out of Ponyboy's stock for a long time (maybe forever???) I was thrilled to pick them up from JMB at cost. With the 17 buttons on my CP I can now go 100% leaf switch!! Combined with the WICO joysticks I have realized my personal goal of zero microswitch tolerance. :P Thanks JMB.
Well I've got $5 riding on you actually finishing this before Chad hits 100,000 posts so it was the least I could do.
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YIKES! He's only got 74,177 to go. Better kiss that 5 bucks goodbye my friend! :dizzy:
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It's taken me a good 7-8 hours to read this thread and all I can say is holy cow this project is an inspiration. I especially love your custom made bezel. Great to see the dedication you have to completing this, if i started back in 2003 I think I would have lost patience by now.
Great work look forward to seeing the finished product sometime next year :)
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*breaks out the whip* Oh PixelHugger.....where are you..... we have some work to get done..... *SNAP*
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YIKES! He's only got 74,177 to go. Better kiss that 5 bucks goodbye my friend! :dizzy:
Chad can drop that many posts before lunch.
Oh, and I still check in on your thread from time to time. Your standards stay at 2003 levels. That is a real accomplishment for this group of ADD slackers. ;D
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Wow. My autonotify isn't working. :dunno
Ironically I was spending all day playing hooky from work to make errr... unprecedented progress on the cab.. until a call at lunch that I had to go in to work for some last minute crap. Man was I pisssed. I wait years for this kind of break and then it gets yanked from my hands.
Your standards stay at 2003 levels.
Its funny... the longer the project drags on the more important it becomes to me and the more willing I am to start stuff over or pay through the nose for some part or other.
We've got twins coming in march so I've been madly scrambling to finish the cab before then since I know the ax is going to fall on personal time at that point. In December my wife got put on full bedrest and the :censored: hit the fan. I was making good progress toward gluing up by Christmas and then got stopped flat. Last week I got time to continue... laying out dado lines that I had started a long time ago. When tracing the marquee box profile on the cab side I saw for the first time what the top and bottom of the marquee box would look like in the final cab. I've gotten so used to looking at the individual pieces I've finished that I have lost a sense of how they would look when all put together. Anyhow... the thickness of the marquee panel walnut was about a 1/4" thinner than the sides. It didn't bother me until I held the two together and decided.... another do over.
This was a particularly painful decision I waffled over for days. I wouldn't have had the :censored: to do it except for the fact that the walnut wing panels that go beneath the CP had just been glued up and surfaced and their dimensions matched what I needed exactly. This also gave me the chance to route the top marquee panel as it should have been done originally... at an angle so the plastic of the marquee would sit flush against the walnut. Routing at an angle caused all kinds of issues so it's been slow. So... I'm hoping to make more progress tonight and finish the "new" thick and properly fitting marque box this weekend.
I've resigned myself to completing glue up by mid march instead of completely finishing the cab which would be impossible. I've added some twists on the design details which will complicate things but will be doable in my remaining spare time after the twins come.
So the plan now is:
week 1: Marquee box redo
week 2: Final dado layouts/Finish sand sides/route edges
week 3: Cut/build interior framing
week 4: Cut/build interior framing (cont)
week 5: Build angle jig for router/test on scrap
week 6: Route dados for base/monitor "shelf"/marquee box/all interior framing
week 7: Test assembly/dry fit
week 8: Glue up
So I have to stick to the schedule or live with the smouldering remains of my best laid plans when D-day hits in March.
:blah: :blah:
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"in my remaining spare time after the twins come."
:laugh2:
I have twins so let me give you some info here.
You will not have any spare time for the first 6 months to 8 years.
There may be a few times they are on the same feeding and sleeping cycle.
The rest of the time will be choas.
It does get better, good luck with them!
BG66
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...so we may see some progress on the cab 8 years from now... whoo hoo! ;D
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Hey PH do you need help getting this done? Maybe some BYOACers can help you get it done. ;D
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;)
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I've gone from loving this thing to "It sucks" now. Until you're done, it'll stay at "SUCKS!" Until you post something again, at which point I reserve all rights to change my opinion and give you a thumbs-up again.
SUCKS! :angry: :badmood: :soapbox:
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"in my remaining spare time after the twins come."
:laugh2:
I have twins so let me give you some info here.
You will not have any spare time for the first 6 months to 8 years.
There may be a few times they are on the same feeding and sleeping cycle.
The rest of the time will be choas.
It does get better, good luck with them!
BG66
Yep. So true. My eldest son was 1,5y old when the twins were born. With three kids aged under 2 years...my life has turned into a happy chaos from that point. My advise; accept all the offers for help you get and take every minute of spare time you can for yourself. There won't be many- but man are those are some of the best spare minutes you'll ever have. Don't get me wrong, I love my kids more than anything! ;D
They are however the main reason I turned from active BYOACer to just lurking (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Lurker) these boards.
Good luck with the twins, it's great to have kids around!
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You will not have any spare time for the first 6 months to 8 years.
I also have twins, who, coincidentally, are turning 8 this weekend ... does this mean I will get my spare time starting next week ? :applaud:
Congrats PH -- I remember the birth of my twins as if it was yesterday ... probably because that was the last time I had a full night's sleep. :dunno
You DO need to get the cab done soon. Where else will the kids play ? Here's your chance to shape the development of the next generation.
:cheers:
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Hey PH do you need help getting this done? Maybe some BYOACers can help you get it done. ;D
Brilliant!!!!!!!!! BYOAC work party 2008!! Too bad we all live on other sides of the world :(. Where you at for arguments sake? I'd love to help ;D
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We demand an update. ;D
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this "thing" still going in..I am pretty sure you lost interest by now lol ???
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this "thing" still going in..I am pretty sure you lost interest by now lol ???
well...
We've got twins coming in march ..
This explains a lot.
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I gotta tell you guys, here is a guy that could build pretty much anything he put his mind to, but the "mission control" cab will likely never see the light of day. For a perfectionist like pixel, this cab could never be "good enough". There are three likely outcomes: Either he loses complete interest (and I mean really, if he was truly interested he'd have it completed by now), or he does a hack job on the rest of it, just to "git er done", or it will stay in a semi-finished pile of expensive rubble.
I had hopes for this ultimate tribute to yesteryear being the high watermark in a mame-build world, but as it is, it's just a waste of everyone's time and thought. It's not going anywhere until these twins are in their 20's.
Sorry Pixel, no offense intended. I just think your vision exceeded the reality here. You probably spent more time thinking about the nav panel than most of us woul have thought of the whole damn project. How can you live up to the hype? Probably impossible.
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Zakk:
Bet you a cab that.. :dizzy: ..oh, psychology 101..
Anyway, (another) nice try ::)
Pixelhugger:
Twins? Congratulations & all :cheers:
Still.. that's no excuse... :laugh2:
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I'd completely understand twins slowing things down. I was only giving him grief because when this started my boy wasn't even a spark in my eye and now hes two years old. ;)
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Wow who doesn't have twins? Is it something I can catch from this forum?!?!
:cheers:
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Man, the damn autonotify still isn't autonotifying me. I missed a particularly rousing post from Zakk for over a week. Yikes.
Since this is a new page I'll quote before continuing....
I gotta tell you guys, here is a guy that could build pretty much anything he put his mind to, but the "mission control" cab will likely never see the light of day.
Heh. Do not underestimate me. ;) Look back over the thread er.. years. Every thing I've hoped or planned for the project has eventually been built. I have hundreds of coffee stained sheets in sketchbooks detailing the parts and building procedures for things that seemed impossible to me. One of the greatest motivators for me when I'm feeling overwhelmed by some part or stage of construction is to thumb through my schematics and realize the crude pencil sketches from my over caffienated imagination are all, ALL sitting in my garage. There isn't a single ambition for the design that hasn't been realized. They take a while. A long while. But they get eventually do get built... just as I imagine them. ;)
For a perfectionist like pixel, this cab could never be "good enough"
True enough. :) There is a wall I hit where I realize I can't do any better. At that wall I call it good enough and move on happy with the result. But yes, if I make a mistake and think I can do better I start over. That has definitely set me back along the way but it has been worth it.
There are three likely outcomes: Either he loses complete interest (and I mean really, if he was truly interested he'd have it completed by now), or he does a hack job on the rest of it, just to "git er done", or it will stay in a semi-finished pile of expensive rubble.
Wrong, wrong and wrong.
Lessee.. the interest. My obsession does slow me down. And I admit there have been a number of weekends I've spent doodling changes and additions at Starbucks when I could have been cutting wood. But the slow pace and constant, constant thinking is the only thing that has allowed me to get where I am on such an unusual second woodworking project. I just haven't made many things before so I rely on the slow pace and continual replanning to catch my errors before I make the worst of them. I probably shouldn't admit this, but I have no fewer than 6 CD's in my car with various labels like Mission Control website sound track ideas.. Mission Control QuickTime trailer music edits... etc. I spend at least an hour of my two hour round trip commute thinking about the project daily. The posts here only come after dozens and dozens of hours of work and development. Do not assume that by not posting I have made no progress... or even more mistakenly, that my interest has waned.
I had hopes for this ultimate tribute to yesteryear being the high watermark in a mame-build world, but as it is, it's just a waste of everyone's time and thought.
I'll take that back handed compliment. I realize it's frustrating to see such slow progress and if you follow this thread for instant gratification you're bound to be let down. If that makes it a waste of time then I'm sorry. Nearly every idea planned for the cabinet is now complete and displayed here with a breakdown of the design and building process. So the groundbreaking things are there to... err... break ground. Want a DVD slot or a nav panel or inlaid plexi or solid wood sides or a three sided marquee or metal side art or direct emulator selection or multilayered bezel or bullnosed plastic or any of the other ideas.. they are all here and will be not be any more groundbreaking or relevant once the cab is done. If you follow this to see a finished cab email me and I'll let you know when it's done months down the line. Most people here follow for inspiration or ideas. Those have been posted and don't depend on the finished box. So in that regard I don't understand the "waste of everyone's time and thought." None of what I have proposed has been vaporware. None of it.
Sorry Pixel, no offense intended.
None taken. :) I appreciate the motivation. And I was actually moved by the high water mark comment. I'm not offended because I don't blame you. I can't expect anyone to believe me when I say it's coming together soon. But it's thrilling to read that and secretly know whats in store. Thrilling and frustrating.
I just think your vision exceeded the reality here.
Why? Because I have't glued it into one piece?
Vision / Reality
Solid hardwood sides / Finished and exceeded
(Twice the planned thickness at 2.5X cost, 10X the pain, and many times the impact when you run your hands along their beefy thickness.)
NavPanel / Finished to spec
Slot loading DVD / Finished to spec
Dimensional 3-sided marquee / Finished to spec
Marquee "box" and fastenter free plexi sandwich design / Finished to spec
Side art / duh
Inlaid minimarquee / Finished to spec
CP / Finished to spec
Bezel / Finished to spec (far beyond original plan)
So what part of the vision other than the glue up has exceeded reality?
You probably spent more time thinking about the nav panel than most of us would have thought of the whole damn project.
Absolutely. Did I mention the CD's? :-[
How can you live up to the hype?
I plan on pulling out all the stops for the unveiling. Just. You. Wait. >:D Again, if following the thread itself is boring you, don't bother. You'll know it's close when you see the HD trailer on the front page. ;) Hehe. Remember.. that kind of crap is my day job.
Probably impossible.
Every step of it has been from the beginning. It's what has made it all worth while! :cheers:
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PHEW....
All that said... I have been making progress on the sides. More on that when I have more to show in pics. I still feel I should leave the substantive updates until I have more interesting things to show beyond trimming, sanding, building a jig to evenly sand specially rounded edges :blah: :blah: :blah:
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If my jabs did anything to inspire you to get off yer ass and get something done, then I think I did my part. Remember, pissing people off is *my* day job! ;)
Hehe, I guess I DO get a bit impatient. As the one fellow pointed out, this build is older than MY boy, and he's 4! I consider myself an A-type personality with an attention to detail, but I go in and renovate an entire 2-bedroom 2-bath condo, and I mean completely renovate...walls, floors, plumbing, crown, trim, showers, etc etc etc and with the help of only one guy do it in 3 weeks. So when we get nearer to the decade mark on this, it gets a bit "silly" (and brother, you DO have to get that I am NOT insulting you and your work!! :) ).
For example, I had to build a breakfast bar for this one condo. I have never built one, and when I sat down to auotcad, I just had an idea of what it would look like. In 2 hours I had a breakfast bar with rounded corners, bow front, custom counter, archway, pendant lights, cabinetry and electrical...all laid out and modeled. I printed the plan out, went to Home depot and grabbed the drywall, hardboard, bullnose bits, etc etc and brought it to the unit. In 2 days I had it framed in, drywalled (if not mudded and sanded), and wired. So 2.5 days from idea to completion, on something I had never tried before. I just go like hell to get it done, and keep working until it looks right.
That's my viewpoint... I do not discount the innovative stuff you have done, at all. I just know that you are one of the most talented, creative people I have ever seen, and I KNOW that if you went full tilt, you could have a project like this done in a month, oh, lets give you TWELVE months. But 4-5 years?? C'mon, nobody can afford that many starbucks coffees. That's a LOT of downtime. Don't even get me started on real life... I have 4 kids, work as a realtor, run a rental company, am starting a new business...and I STILL do the renos on my properties basically myself. Am I a superman? Hardly, I still spend time drunk in the hot tub almost every night ;)
Still, this still could just be a ploy to set the fire under your feet. I mean, I really think I misspoke when I said this was a waste of time. I can't figure how I meant to say it, but that definitely came out wrong.
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So how are the twins?
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in mother russia cab slows twins down. :laugh2:
but anyways you should introduce the twins to it as early as possible, this is daddys you dont puke on the hazelwood.
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Maybe the twins will be the ones to finish this project?
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PH! Wherefore art thou PixelHugger? The gods have forsaken us of even one glimpse of the amazing Mission Control idol in many moons! What (Who?) do I need to sacrifice for an update?
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Just to put something in perspective.
This thread started 11/08/2003.
The average price of gas in the US was $1.43 a gallon! :angry:
BG66
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Jeez. I disappear for a few years, come back, and he STILL hasn't finished this thing? :laugh2:
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And people get mad how long I'm taking to develop my jukebox software. Sheesh! ;D
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You guys do know that hes going to complete it in 2013 as part of the 10year anniversary for starting it. ;D
Or its going to be finished as their High School graduation gift.
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But we're all going to dye in 2012 though. :-\
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You guys do know that hes going to complete it in 2013 as part of the 10year anniversary for starting it. ;D
Or its going to be finished as their High School graduation gift.
Oh my god, I didn't even notice, it's almost 5 years.
Wow.
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I think you meant to say.. "it's ONLY been 5 years".. ;D
Hoops
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I think Pixel's twins killed him and ate him, Lord of the Flies style... :dizzy:
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Apparently the experiments run using the Large Hadron Collider opened up a rip in time. When the portal opened a visitor walked through and told the scientists that he was from 10 years into the future and that the Mission Control Project cabinet still wasn't finished.
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But we're all going to dye in 2012 though. :-\
What color?
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Actually I just wanted a post in this thread. I figure it is going to go down in BYOAC history and I just want to be a part of it.
I remember looking at this thread before I started my cab over 2 years ago. Some people just like to take their time... :)
edit 3 years ago
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Actually I just wanted a post in this thread. I figure it is going to go down in BYOAC history and I just want to be a part of it.
I remember looking at this thread before I started my cab over 2 years ago. Some people just like to take their time... :)
edit 3 years ago
you think this is bad,
im still THINKING about my cab, and started just before him.... i may only be 19 but ive been waiting for money to build the damn thing....
and since then my ideas that ive had just keep evolving, and a few of them ive had, then later seen them be done before i even set myself to do any woodworking, oh well, at least when im done it will seem to be a colaboration of ideas from everywhere intergrated into one awesome cab, rather like pixelhuggers...
EDIT: OVER 100k views...
i swear this thread must have the most views of any thread!!!!
it even beats the stickys!
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Meh. The Cheesecake thread's sitting comfortably at 125k. ;D
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I'm alive. I figured others might want to know that. ;)
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I'm alive. I figured others might want to know that. ;)
You're not fooling me. You look like a skeleton in your picture.
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You're not fooling me. You look like a skeleton in your picture.
Looks more like a skelington to me. ;)
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Meh. The Cheesecake thread's sitting comfortably at 125k. ;D
Probably because it is updated more frequently ;D
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I figure this thread needs one post a month.
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Awright awright....
Update: I've been measuring and cutting the interior "shelves" or panels that will hold the cabinet together. There are 3 horizontal interior panels each wider than the one below it to create an angle to the sides. There are also front and back vertical interior panels to give the cab stability and help square it up.
All these panels are cut from cabinet grade cherry plywood (since they won't be visible). It's been really difficult for me to square them up without a good table saw. My first attempt resulted in a panel that was about 1/16" out of square when measured along the diagonals. Since I have no idea what that means down the road for the glue up as far as stuff aligning, (and having been scared to death by a warning in a Fine Woodworking article about small deviations added up to big misalignments).... I've spent the last several weeks trying to edjumacate myself on what realistic tolerances should be. How exact is exact??? This started an obsession with 64th's of an inch I wasn't previously able to measure. I bought myself a ridiculously expensive 4R yardstick, a magnifying glass, and 3X power old man reading glasses from the drugstore. (I'm pretty sure I wouldn't have needed the glasses back when I started the project 5 years ago). I've got the first panel into square within a 64th and am unable to do any better. I'm guessing this is so far beyond what is necessary I won't have to worry about the squareness of the panels compromising the rest of the assembly.
Method for squaring plywood with only a router-
Following the 3-4-5 rule for a triangle with a 90 degree corner (a2+b2=c2) I measured multiples of 3 (21"), 4 (28" and 5 (35") to get 2 square sides.
Using a long metal straight edge cutting guide, I routed one side straight. I bought a cool cutting guide I wish I had gotten at the start of the project. Lets me clamp it from beneath to the workpiece and provides a super rigid straight edge to rout against.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=117043)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=117045)
Marking in about an inch from the corner I measured 21" to a 64th with my magic yardstick and old man reading glasses. Marked with an exacto knife, since my pencil marks were too inaccurate.
Then I laid out a line 28" parallel to the clean edge. I used a cheapo square to keep the ruler relatively straight which was enough to mark the 28" accurately. The square itself however is out about 1/32 over it's puny length. So is my carpenters square. Everyone online recommends a machinist square, but I still haven't been able to buy one.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=117047)
Using my non flexible magic yardstick I measured a 35" diagonal off the far end of the 21" line, marking the intersection along the 28" line.
A straight line down to the starting point of my first 21" line gave me a very accurate 90 degrees.
I trimmed that 90 deg line and measured off it for the opposite edge. Then measured off the first clean edge for the final parallel side.
Time consuming and likely overkill but I'm pretty nervous about the alignment of all 5 panels, plus the marquee box, minimarquee, and navpanel fitting into their respective dados all at once when gluing up.
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Awright awright....
Update: I've been measuring and cutting the interior "shelves" or panels that will hold the cabinet together.
You DO know they sell rulers.....you don't have to make your own out of shmooleyhide and strongtanium. There's SOME level of detail you can simply just...oh, I dunno.... leave out :laugh2:
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I heard that some people actually recieved their panels from Christian while waiting for this to be finished... Although that is only a rumour.
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I heard that some people actually recieved their panels from Christian while waiting for this to be finished... Although that is only a rumour.
Now that is going a little too far. :dunno I agree that this project is going along at a snails pace but at lest we get to see the progress.
Michael
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Meh. The Cheesecake thread's sitting comfortably at 125k. Grin
That's right.
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At least he's been working on it and giving everyone some serious inspiration. I've been following this since 2006. And I've always had some excuse why I can't start my own project. Seriously, Mission Control takes MAME cabs to a HNL. It's not even done and it still makes me feel inadequate.
Keep up the great work Pix
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I heard that some people actually recieved their panels from Christian while waiting for this to be finished... Although that is only a rumour.
Now that is going a little too far. :dunno I agree that this project is going along at a snails pace but at lest we get to see the progress.
Michael
Snail's pace? Do snails live that long? ;D
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Using a long metal straight edge cutting guide, I routed one side straight. I bought a cool cutting guide I wish I had gotten at the start of the project. Lets me clamp it from beneath to the workpiece and provides a super rigid straight edge to rout against.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=117043)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=117045)
As a router newb, I'm intrigued by this yellow thinger. Can someone explain what bit you'd use with this (flush trim?), where the router sits (on top of the yellow bar?), and is there a bearing that rides along the edge of the yellow thing? Lastly, were can one buy these and are they specific to your brand of router.
*neat*
-csa
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They are not brand specific. I ran the router's base plate along the edge of the bar since I was afraid running the bearing along it might cut the bar, especially over repeated use.
I used a 1" straight bit. To make setup easier I first cut a piece and then measured exactly how far off the bar the router had cut (2 31/64" for my Porter Cable router). That made all future positioning of the bar super easy since I just moved it back that distance from the line to cut. Accurate to within 1/64" :angel:
The bar can be extended by joining two together with a cleat in the track the clamp rides on the underside. This extends capacity to over 100" I will say however that the bar has a tendency to bow against pressure when used like this since it can only be clamped at the ends (unless the piece you are trimming allows for a clamp in the middle, which most 8' sheets would not.
Festool makes a tool guide like this for their circular saws/routers/jigsaws, and I've seen others online as well. I really liked the positionable clamp system this one uses. Product info (http://www.woodcraft.com/product.aspx?ProductID=145726&FamilyID=5142)
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Good to see you back and active Pixelhugger. Looking forward to more progress updates on this project.
Michael
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Good to see you back and active Pixelhugger. Looking forward to more progress updates on this project.
Michael
you're making assumptions...
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Good to see you back and active Pixelhugger. Looking forward to more progress updates on this project.
Michael
you're making assumptions...
He may be moving slower than molasses in January but any progress is progress. Heck look at the juke I am 'building' for my wife. I haven't gotten out of the planing stage yet though I am accumulating parts and materials.
Michael
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So I just found this thread a few hrs ago and read it all... pretty epic. I am seriously super impressed with your attention to detail.I can't wait to see it done (not to give you even more ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- about how long its taking,but when i saw it was over 30 pages it made me keep reading expecting it done at the end haha) keep up the great work man
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:)
Heh, I actually find the opposite happening to me. I'll start reading a thread, not knowing how old it is, and find my jaw hitting the floor when I see page after page of progress- expecting nothing to be done. That happened to me with OND's Retro Futuristic cab (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=88912.0). I saw the rendering at the start of the thread and thought BWAH..... Right! Good luck on that one. Then scrolled down to see he had already nailed everything just like the render. :notworthy:
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Mission Control takes MAME cabs to a HNL. It's not even done and it still makes me feel inadequate.
What does the H stand for? ;D
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Mission Control takes MAME cabs to a HNL. It's not even done and it still makes me feel inadequate.
What does the H stand for? ;D
Hypothetical?
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:laugh2: :laugh2: Well played. :applaud:
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Just wondering, have you finished this, Pixel? I haven't looked in for ages, and i don't quite feel like going through 32 pages to find out...
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Just wondering, have you finished this, Pixel? I haven't looked in for ages, and i don't quite feel like going through 32 pages to find out...
Pfffft. He's not even close...
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Just making my anual check in.
My mame cabinet is definately not even close to the league pixel's is in, but I've built, use and broken (the computer, not the craftsmanship) mine since.
Sad to see a lot of the pictures are gone now.
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Hey Mark. Glad to see the continued interest. The missing "n" in anual makes it look really disturbing in a medical way. :P ::)
Yikes! What pics are missing? That's a scary thought after this has survived so long. I did notice some text is missing, which really sucks. Does anyone know a good way to archive a thread like this? Y'know, so as to be able to save if for my children's children... provided the cab is done by then.
I apologize for the lack up updates. Not sure if I mentioned this before, but the top edges of the sides have hairline cracks that appear in the warm weather and close up in the dry cold. So I've been holding off on gluing up and sealing the beast until then season changes and the wood goes back to how it was when the panels were joined. Hopefully once sealed the moisture exchange will be minimized to prevent that much movement. Man, it's always something.
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Yikes! What pics are missing? That's a scary thought after this has survived so long. I did notice some text is missing, which really sucks. Does anyone know a good way to archive a thread like this? Y'know, so as to be able to save if for my children's children... provided the cab is done by then.
You can click on the "Print" button on the button of the page. This shows the whole thread in one page. Or maybe there is some preferences setting to show all replies on one page?
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Unfortunately that doesn't include images. Or should it?
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EDIT: added poll to choose artwork
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Unfortunately that doesn't include images. Or should it?
No indeed it doesn't.
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Not sure if I mentioned this before, but the top edges of the sides have hairline cracks that appear in the warm weather and close up in the dry cold. So I've been holding off on gluing up and sealing the beast until then season changes and the wood goes back to how it was when the panels were joined. Hopefully once sealed the moisture exchange will be minimized to prevent that much movement. Man, it's always something.
No worries, if you wait a little longer you'll be dealing with petrified wood.
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Not sure if I mentioned this before, but the top edges of the sides have hairline cracks that appear in the warm weather and close up in the dry cold. So I've been holding off on gluing up and sealing the beast until then season changes and the wood goes back to how it was when the panels were joined. Hopefully once sealed the moisture exchange will be minimized to prevent that much movement. Man, it's always something.
No worries, if you wait a little longer you'll be dealing with petrified wood.
:laugh2: :laugh2:
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Does anyone know a good way to archive a thread like this? Y'know, so as to be able to save if for my children's children... provided the cab is done by then.
I can make it into a PDF for you. I did the first 5 pages and each page of the thread gets broken down into about 18 8.5x11 pages. The entire PDF looks like it will ONLY be about 600 pages and 12MB.
There used to be a site that I used to upload large files to share temporarily that would retain the file for about a month or a certain amount of downloads. Anyone know which site that is? I can't recall the name or see anything familiar when I search.
Petrified wood...hilarious! :lol
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Yikes! What pics are missing? That's a scary thought after this has survived so long. I did notice some text is missing, which really sucks. Does anyone know a good way to archive a thread like this? Y'know, so as to be able to save if for my children's children... provided the cab is done by then.
Pixel,
You can be assured that if one day this forum does close down, Saint and I will have a full copy of it somewhere. As for the text formatting issues, I can't explain that, and it can happen in very rare instances. All I can say is that anything ultra critical make sure to keep what you wrote down, and then go back and fix it.
The other suggestion is to make yourself a wiki page and put it all there. You can also push the images all there to if you really want. In either case, it'll be stable. There is also of course a print button, but that will not capture the images (which I think is a bit of a bummer).
Let me know if there is something you need.
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Wow I had no idea that this thread started in 2003 but then I vaguely recall seeing it as I would lurk from time to time.
Is the objective to finish this when it actually becomes a classic cab in its own right? ;)
Sorry couldn't resist...
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I like the *new* artwork ;D
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As I've been updating the cabinet's artwork, the rule to "never fall in love with your first design" kept bothering me. Ultimately I decided to revisit the logo design to see where a fresh start might end up.
So below is the original logo (design1) and the potential replacement (design 2). There's a poll at the top of the page. I'd love to get the feedback of everyone here. I'm torn between both for a number of reasons. Please vote and let me know what you like/don't like. I'm especially interested in getting the opinion of people who aren't really familiar with the old design. I'm just too close to it at this point.
For what it's worth I posted the newly revised CP as well. The CP isn't affected by the logo design.
This is DESIGN 1:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=127044)
This is DESIGN 2:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=129591)
And the CP
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=129601)
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Design 1 is so much better it's not even close! :cheers:
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Design 1 is so much better it's not even close! :cheers:
+1
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+1
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The font choice of #2 is nice, but that rocket is just too much in the way. Maybe if you had the rocket as the giant background image instead of the planets.
As they stand, #1 is much better.
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The other reason that sticking with #1 is better is that it allows you time to actually BUILD the thing.... :)
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#1 seems to fit much better with the somewhat unusual lines of the cab. And FWIW this is from someone who hadn't looked at this thread up until a few days ago. Read the whole thing though...took half the day. LOL
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#1 is 110% more fantastical. . .
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Design #1 makes me think about Day of the Tentacle, probably because of the font and the "cartoonish" look of the overall design due to that font.
Design #2 makes me think about a more serious theme, probably not NASA-category but at least not cartoonish. The rocket and the motion curve would need to be redone/enhanced because they block the title too much. Not enough contrast or something, sorry if I'm so vague but visual design isn't a strong point of mine.
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Threw my vote in earlier for Design 1...I like the waviness of the font...much more in line with the curves/waves of your cab.
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I just changed my mind, stick with the old one...
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Stick with #1
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Peer pressure.....yeah #1 has it for sure.
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#1, both are good thou...
Really elegant :cheers: probably one of the nicest i have seen on this forum :applaud:
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(voted) def #1.
Something that always grabs my eye as out-of-place though is those dashed circles. Is there a reason for those? Always sticks out (to me) as Betelguise-ish.
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Something that always grabs my eye as out-of-place though is those dashed circles. Is there a reason for those? Always sticks out (to me) as Betelguise-ish.
To me it looks like those "cut here" lines.
Talking about those lines however, the spacing between the dashes at the bottom of the trackball needs to be corrected IMO. Sorry if it has already been mentionned but this is like the longest thread ever. :o
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No:1 is sooo "Day of the Tentacle", I like it! :applaud:
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I like #1 the original more....
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I like the font of #1 better. Reminds me of something from a 1950s B-movie or one of those black and white sci-fi American shows. Only drawback for me is the white dotted lines... kinda makes it look like it's supposed to be cut out with scissors.
#2 looks more serious. But it's still very cool and I like it. I honestly couldn't choose between the two. If you lost the dotted lines on #1 and did something more subtle I'd go with #1.
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Well the new one brings the artwork into this century. ;D
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I first liked the second one, but the first has character that matches the rest of the cabinet.
also the 2nd one looks too modern which for an arcade machine isn't always the look you want... maybe that's because the arts 6 years old!
also FWIW if anyone believes me ive been planning my own cab and collecting pieces since this thread was made, i just never thought id made enough progress to start a build thread and my design has changed radically since, might have something to do with that i was only 13-14 when this thread was made! a few of the ideas i've had i've seen been implemented but been inspired by so many cabs since then. this one being a major influence of take your time and put effort into EVERYTHING.
my biggest problem is funding since i've either been at school or university... but I swear in this thread of all places that my cab will be awesome once i get funded.
sorry to hijack my own post that was originally just to vote with.
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#1 - so much more attractive...
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#1
and make those white dashes lite blue
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I second Benders post you definitely should make the white lines light blue and go in different patterns based on whether the systems in game mode or attract mode and so on.
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Thanks for all the feedback.
This has been tremendously helpful. I had really expected opinions to be divided between the two designs, with those familiar with the project preferring the original and those new to the project preferring version 2. The clear preference for the original design helps me stop second guessing myself. It's also been interesting for me to hear why people prefer #1, since a number people pointed out aspects of the design that had mean leaning toward it as well, particularly that it has a feel that better matches the feel of the cabinet. While I still feel the new marquees has a *better* designed logotype, but that really means nothing if it fails to convey the right feeling about the cab.
Regarding the black and white dashes. I'm not sure how these are coming across to most people, they were intended to feel like a map or navigational design element, much like the dashed lines you would see on a map indicating the equator or scale lines in the map key. I've also seen it used around the edge of a map as a border, maybe to more easily count longitude and latitude? Anyhow, that was the idea. They also serve to anchor the otherwise busy logo against the background. After trying a number of different options, this felt the cleanest. I definitely understand the "cut here" comments. My unwillingness to see anything other than catoony space cartography of the future however has me satisfied with how they stand ;D Point taken though, and I did align the dates with the white dashes to hopefully tie the navigational concept in a bit more clearly. Oh, and I fixed the goofy spacing on the trackball border.. thanks, I missed that!
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how about something like this, to me it feels a little more like a map boarder than a "cut here" line
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=130624;image)
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It's not to invalidate other kinds of projects, it's just that my goals and interest in doing this are different. My next cabinet will likely be black laminate with chrome t-moulding as my interest in that project is different as well.
When will the next project be started? before or after the current one finishes? and if so when can we expect renders?
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Ahhhh, the black laminate post of 2005. Good times. Shortly after though, that got superceded by the Boomerang post of 2006 and my interest in the next project moved from chrome t molding and black laminate to maple and car paint. Three years later I'm still inching forward on the original project and am already thinking the next project may not be a cab at all after seeing Ben Heck's hand held 2600 and ColecoVision projects.
So to answer your question in order I'd say: Who knows. After. And, long before I actually start. ;) :timebomb:
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Pixel, would it be fair to say this build has become the "Chinese Democracy" of arcade projects?! Heheh, then again, that album did finally come out. Ok, let's not all pile on now....Oh, hey, I still have to get that artwork from you.
8)
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Pixel....let me just say...i hate you...with a passion...lol...i just blew something like 2 or 2.5 hours rummaging through posts...i can honestly say i don't think i will ever be able to work with wood as you have...it's truly beautiful to watch (albeit painfully slow)....
that being said, i was hoping you might shed some light on a few things for me...
i have been investigating CPs for awhile trying to figure out what controls i will ultimately use...you are using the same controls i am going for, i.e., 4-way, two 8-ways, 6 buttons (i'll have 7) and a trackball and spinner....i like the overall layout of your CP....
do you have a file with the dimensions and placement so i could try out your layout and work from it....i am really struggling with dimensions and i think it might help give me a good base....
again...great job...and just fyi...i am going to "borrow" some of your styling cues on the art and your admin panel ;)
thanks and again....great job!
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Hi Pixel,
I new to posting on the boards but have been haunting for a while. If you ever decide to build this cab, let me know and I will cut those side details in aluminum for you. Wont be a problem for the equipment we have in the shop. I will post some picts of projects soon.
KJ :)
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Hey Knave, thanks for the offer, I really appreciate that. The side art has actually been cut already, though. I may take you up on your offer for another part of the cab depending on final plans for details on the back door. :)
Do you work at a sign shop? I'm so jealous of all these people with machine shop access!
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i just blew something like 2 or 2.5 hours rummaging through posts
...
Same thing happens to me in this thread. I get lost whenever I need to go back to find something.
i can honestly say i don't think i will ever be able to work with wood as you have...it's truly beautiful to watch
Have you checked out OND's and FrancoB's work? Just stunning.
A PDF of the CP layout (without artwork) is attached.
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Actually I own a waterjet cutting service and we also do laser engraving. So yeah we have some very cool toys to play with. I hate to admit it, but it makes creating router jigs and any of the metal parts so much easier. Just wait till you see the game list and instructions for my cabaret. It was once a Centipede, but some one long before i got it turned it into a fighter. Just about ruined it as far as im concerned. Its only sort of patched together. It looks better from the front....not so good from the back. I love the look of the Mission Control Project. I had not considered the theme cabinets before. It makes for some wonderful ideas though.
KJ
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Have you checked out OND's and FrancoB's work? Just stunning.
Dude, as flattered as I am, I don't think I'm in your's and ond's league!
Anywho, its nice to see some 'progress' on this. :)
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How can you say that with a straight face?
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(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=141700)
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Oh holy crap.... don't tease me... let's get some pics... :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
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Oh holy crap.... don't tease me... let's get some pics... :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
Clearly he has just been waiting for his yoke to arrive first!
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Please be good please be good please be good please be good please be good please be good please be good please be good please be good please be good please be good please be good please be good please be good please be good please be good please be good please be good please be good please be good please be good please be good please be good please be good please be good please be good please be good
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:lol
I cant believe its been over 6 years since this project started lol..
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I cant believe its been over 6 years since this project started lol..
6 years, 3 months...but who is keeping track? Oh wait...we are :)
Can't wait for an update.
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Apparently we ARE going to wait for an update.....
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3 more days...
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Maybe he's waiting for his yoke to show up :D
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lol
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Maybe... just maybe... he has actually finished it... :-\
Naaahh, who am I kidding!?
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Maybe he selected the paper that the coffee table book (featuring the cabinet) will be printed on?
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@pixelhugger : first i d like 2 say thanks for the hours of godly entertaining and the nice work ure doin on creating this baby . i think some day i ll borrow the design with a few modifications to build a 70 % shrinked kiddystyle sitdown cab , if u dont mind . again : ure doin a wonderful job and take all the time u need , even when people hate u .
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Ya know..... I think this has been done for a LONG LONG time...... Pixelhugger has just been building dozens of them to sell. He just wont let anyone know till his stock is full and ready to ship unlike other peeps we know...... :afro:
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I'm working on a full write up for the last few days of progress (along with the progress made in the months since my last update.) Putting it all together with the associated pictures is going to take more time that I have right now, but since I'm determined to post by my self imposed deadline of 2/22… here is a preview pic of Saturday night's dry fit before Sunday's glue up. None of the plywood structures will be visible in the final cabinet. (None of the final front structure is seen here.) All plywood "shelves" are 3/4" cabinet grade, dadoed 7/16" into the sides. There are a total of 17 structural dadoes in the final glue up of the project, 6 of which are angled into the sides at 2 degrees and 7 of which intersect for alignment and strength. There are an additional 11 cosmetic/non structural dadoes (mortises?) for the marquee box, marquee plastic, minimarquee, bezel and navpanel to be mounted into the sides. So that's 28 dadoes total, each cut in two passes to ensure a tight fit for the plywood. The gap you see at the top where the marquee will go is due to the side panel not being fully seated before the picture was taken. In the final assembly there were no gaps or misalignments. WOOT! Much, much more to come when I can get the update together.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=142319)
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T-moldless curved side edges? :o :notworthy:
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2" thick solid cherry. 1.5" after surfacing and sanding. :afro: Also, radiused across the full edge (not bullnosed on either side of the edge). It's the same treatment given to chair arms on some fine furniture. Makes it irresistably grabbable like other curvy round things.
Top of marquee box area
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=142321)
CP "arm"
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=142323)
Not seen in these pics is the "glow" the curve gets when light hits it. The close up of the top pic makes the edge look rough, but it's really smooth "in person"
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mmmmm curvy round things....I love the smell of cherry wood in the morning! Those timber edge are going to look beautiful finished. Good to see you making stuff again. :cheers:
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Good to see you making stuff again.
Thanks man! Means a lot coming from a builder like you. I've been going solid since Thursday. Even took Friday off to prepare for the glue up on Sunday. Record progress for the cabinet.
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Those edges required so much sanding I was afraid I'd change the shape of the radius (I had a bit of chipping while routing some of the end grain, especially at the top of the cabinet.) So I made a custom sanding block to help keep the profile consistent. The radius was definitely a PITA to work with, but worth it in the end.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=142325)
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Wow, that is sick! :applaud:
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Congrats man. I was hoping it wasn't going to die. As well my boy is only 4 years old and I was going to ask him to build me one when he gets into high school woodshop.
I guess I'll have to scrap the idea of him building me one since your back on it. ;)
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(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=142319)
Hmm . . . something about this picture makes me think that starting and then not finishing projects might be a chronic thing for you. :cheers:
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Around here most garages are unpainted.
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Thanks Dave. :) Y'know around here, most don't even have drywall.
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Cripes! are you still working on this thing?? :laugh2:
You do realize this one will have to go in a museum, then you'll need to start all over again.
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So here's a quick rundown of the progress I've been making over the last months. I've felt that most of this hasn't warranted posting on it's own, so I've waited until I'm ready to make more interesting progress to post this stuff.
Previously on Mission Control:
Back in July, yes that July… almost a year ago..... the changing humidity had wreaked havoc with the moisture content of the cherry and hairline cracks appeared in the ends of the sides. I was nervous that cutting dados and gluing up with the dimensional changes in the wood during the warm weather would be dangerous... risking misalignment or even further cracking when forcing the wood under clamping pressure. These cracks have since sealed back up with the cooler weather and I'm comfortable moving forward with the glue up of the cabinet and sealing of the sides. So to catch up with everything since my last update here's what's been done:
Complete rebuild of the walnut "marquee box" panels to make them as thick as the sides and to cut an angled channel for the plastic marquee so it fits with less of a gap at the top.
Sanding the faces of the sides.
Rounding off the cabinets edges with a single radius (as seen above)
Sanding the edges of the sides This required a specially shaped sanding block to match the profile of the edges (as seen above)
Squaring up and angling of all the interior "shelves" of the cabinet that'll hold the thing together. These can be seen in the glue up pics that follow. A discussion of the process involved in squaring and cutting these sheets is here. (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg933645#msg933645)
Creation of the various arcs that will give the top and back of the cabinet it's curved shape. These will get ribs connecting them between the sides and then get covered with curved sheets of poplar before laminating them with cherry to match the rest of the cabinet. Epyx has already done something very similar on his project.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=142648)
Because the sides of the cabinet are angled downward (wider opening at the top than bottom). I had to make a jig to cut any horizontal dados at the proper angle. Here's a breakdown of the design and creation of the angled router jig (For simplicity's sake, but mostly because it's so much fun to say out loud, this jig will subsequently be referred to by the military style acronymn R-BAAD (router baseplate assembly for angled dados.) Unless somebody can come up with something better ;)
To create the jig I drew out the router in Illustrator at full scale against the side panel. This gave me the measurement for how high the "cleat" holding the router at an angle would have to be.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=142660)
I then cut a piece of wood to this height with the proper angle to glue onto the jig's base. Basically I had to cut a piece of 3/4" pine leaving the bottom 1/32" narrower than the top. Shocking that Mr. Crappy the "table" saw could manage that tolerance. I did have to buy a fancy billion tooth Freud blade to help.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=142640)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=142638)
I bolted this onto a rigid piece of 3/8" plexi and attached it to the bottom of the router.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=142662)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=142795)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=142799)
(http://)
(http://)
Next I tested all the angled dado cuts in two pieces of 2" thick pine for each side at the full scale of the cabinet and assembled the shelves into it as though they were the finished sides. They fit nice and flush with the "cabinet" at its proper width top and bottom, which confirmed the jig angle was correct. It was also really easy to control the router with the jig on. That had really concerned me until testing.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=142801)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=142785)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=142789)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=142783)
All these crazy measurements were getting incredibly time consuming so I picked up a pair of digital calipers to make repeated measurements super easy. They also made staying to 1/64" simple. Measuring to those tolerances with the yardstick SUCKED.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=142634)
VERSUS
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=142636)
Next I had to cut all the dados and mortises in the sides of the cabinet. First I traced the marquee box's profile onto a piece of MDF to make a template for cutting the marquee's shape and ensuring that the radiused wood fit snugly with no gapping and that the angled marquee plastic had a matching slot to fit snugly into. I cut the template shape into the cherry side and cleaned up the corners with a rasp.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=142793)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=142791)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=142803)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=142646)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=142644)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=142805)
The marquee box is seen here dadoed/mortised into the sides at 1/2" deep. Pretty clean joint especially considering it intersects at a compound angle with the plastic. I didn't want any butt joints or anything surface mounted. I was pretty sure that with the angle of the sides, anything on the surface would leave obvious gaps.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=142642)
I'll post a video of the dadoing process for the structural panels and a time lapse of the glue up since it's just so much fun to watch.
Lots more coming. Dados, speaker grille assembly, and glue up need to be posted. I'm so behind on posts it's tedious catching up.
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Nice work Pixelhugger. Methinks you are on a bit of a momentum roll :)
*new tool alert* MUST have a pair of digital calipers...fantastic little tool and one that will come in very handy for those type of precise measurements. Can't wait to see how you handle the top of your cab with the ribs and cherry!
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Can't wait to see how you handle the top of your cab with the ribs and cherry!
That makes two of us. The idea will be to build out the ribs with the arches in place on the glued up cab. Then I'll remove them assembled and bend poplar sheets over them. Then trim them to width using a router with the sides of the assembly (the arches seen in the previous pic) as a guide. Then I'll laminate them with cherry and trim again. Hopefully everything will fit snugly when I put them back in place.
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I figured the references to all the dados and structures that go in them along with the close up shots might be a bit confusing. Here's a guide. ::)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=142842)
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Close up of the dado/mortise for the minimarquee. Before the dado for the bezel got cut.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=142838)
And with the minimarquee in place. I decided to angle this down toward the player instead of at a 90 deg to the top.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=142836)
And with the bezel dado completed and the bezel in place
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=142840)
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Wow awesome woodworking skills, thats going to be something else when finished.
:cheers:
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Thanks! It's largely been "learn as you go" That along with fail and rebuild as you go. :badmood:
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Forgot to mention, you'll see some dados with uneven or wobbly cuts where I freehanded the back (not visible) side on the non structural dados. That is because they are not visible and not structural (don't need a snug fit)
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Very nice pictures of an awesome project. :applaud:
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Damn Pixelhugger - you are INSANE. This is going to be great. :cheers:
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are you painting this cabinet or going for the "wood" look?
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Marble Contact Paper. :)
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In order to be allowed to post on this thread you should be required to show proof that you have read the whole thing from start to finish.
:dizzy:
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are you painting this cabinet or going for the "wood" look?
Do a search, n00b! ;D
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Marble Contact Paper. :)
:laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :applaud:
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In order to be allowed to post on this thread you should be required to show proof that you have read the whole thing from start to finish.
:dizzy:
We've only had 7 years to do it. ;) Bahahahahaha
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Mission Control Glue Up Redux. Here is a video showing the previously mentioned dadoing and the final glue up. It's the result of about 4 straight days of cabinet work condensed to the length of a typical Benny Hill slapstick chase sequence…. only without the topless nurses and old guy getting beaten with a cane.
edit: Forgot to explain the "Imminent Failure" part of the video.... The sides are so heavy (100lbs+?) it was tough to position the right side on top of the "shelves" you see sticking up from the left side. We didn't realize until long after the glue had set, that in the process of moving the side back and forth to position it we rubbed most of the glue off the shelves. Unfortunately the glue along the front pieces set fine, but the middle and back of the cabinet was completely unattached to the right side. Because the front had set, I couldn't just lift the side up and pour more glue in. I decided to drill pocket holes along all the joints that needed regluing and inject glue using my wife's left over syringes from her pregnancy meds. (Unfortunately for her, but luckily for the project, these syringes are about the diameter of large cocktail straws, used for drawing up peanut butter-like meds). Injecting them during her pregnancy was like taking a core sample of her butt cheek, but they worked beautifully for wood glue. So the glue mistake is what you see occuring during the warning siren, followed by the procedure to fix it.
GLUE UP VIDEO 1a.mov (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=r-PNP7TSuhY#ws)
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It's the result of about 4 straight days of cabinet work condensed to the length of a typical Benny Hill slapstick chase sequence…. only without the topless nurses and old guy getting beaten with a cane.
Lol classic...I miss Benny Hill. Looking great!
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only without the topless nurses and old guy getting beaten with a cane.
I knew it was missing something.
Great video, thanks for sharing.
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Man, wordworking skills are solid.......I sat here and oooed and awwed at the fact that you were making such straight lines pure dados....... :notworthy:
Awesome work.......
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Injecting them during her pregnancy was like taking a core sample of her butt cheek, but they worked beautifully for wood glue.
I hope to god for your sake she never reads this forum.
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That was unbelievably entertaining.
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That was unbelievably entertaining.
OK, OK so it looses something without the topless nurses and slapstick chasing.
@Stub.. Believe me, she's well aware of the core sample comparison. :) After the first few shots she banned me from doing the injections. That said, she doesn't read the forum. She refers to the project only as "the Geekbox." :dunno
@rablack.. Thanks! I've been living in fear of the glueup for a long time now. All the dados and the angles had me sure that the assembly would be like one of those Chinese finger traps... bunches of tiny tensions adding together to make it impossible to budge. I was really nervous the panels wouldn't align. Or would bind in the dados. That's what's behind my reaction in the video when the back slots into place with a solid kerchunk. It was pretty clear at that point that the dados would at least work as planned.
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That said, she doesn't read the forum. She refers to the project only as "the Geekbox."
In my neck of the woods that wood be a compliment :dunno
I daresay you have had a slew of updates in 2010 so far...momentum is on your side...keep it going! :cheers:
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Played a bit of hooky from work today so I'm very near posting pics with the sideart installed and CP installed. The angled sides really complicate everyting. The CP is mounted at a downward angle so the back is about 1/4" wider than the front. When trimming it today the router did one side fine, but tore and chipped the front CP trim (across about two inches) on the other side.... so now I'm having to carefully graft pieces back into place. ARGH.
The side art is looking really cool. I recessed a hole to allow perf panel to go about 1/2" behind the rocket, and a sheet of stainless about 1/2" behind the perf panel. Ultimately it'll get LED strip lighting hidden around the circumference of the cutout... blue across the surface of the perf and UV behind that (shining through the holes). Hopefully those colors will match the blue and purple in the rest of the artwork.
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I'm gonna show my wife this thread in the morning. Then I'm gonna say "And you think I overcomplicate things!!!"
Seriously dude, your work is amazing. Borderline insane, but still amazing.
Your choice of side panel material obviously shows you have far bigger brass ones than any other person in this hobby.
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I enjoyed your video more than any other single post I have ever seen on this forum. Absolutely fantastic. :cheers:
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It's getting revised as we speak. Same video. Magically funtastic new co-star to make up for no nurses. :afro:
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And thank you! I was really excited about it. :) That's a pretty huge compliment. Made my day ;D
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Video revised to more faithfully capture the Benny Hill music sequence. See if you can spot the new co-star ::)
GLUE UP - rev.mov (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FjSVbnrP4U8#ws)
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Incredible. How long were you actually filming? Man, I wish every project had a video like this...
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:laugh2:
I love how the "co star" disappears when the Mrs. shows up!
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How long were you actually filming?
It was spread out over four days. The camera was running for about 3 hours of that. So it captured maybe 20% of what was going on. I wish I had gotten better footage of the glue injecting. And more bikini models.
@epyx Purely untintentional. Instinctual subconcious attempt at self preservation maybe. ::)
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:lol I keep watching this over and now I must comment. There's a bunch of great things going on in the video (not the least the reminders of how much I loved Benny Hill) it's nice to watch someone else working the wood. I'm there with you in the moment of truth when you test fit the edge into the slot. Great stuff, makes me want to work with some real timber again rather than steenking MDF. There is one thing though, you are an extremely naughty fellow *grits his teeth*.........using a claw hammer on a wood chisel! :hissy: I'm wrapping up and mailing you a wooden chisel mallet as I type this. ;D Just kidding dude. Thanks for bringing back the Pixel magic to the forum :cheers: :cheers: I must see more!
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Man I remember reading about you working on the marquee section way back when I found this forum. Seeing this project survive the addition to the family and the wife helping is great. Well with the cabinet all glued up you are in the home stretch man. Keep at it and don't give up on the dream. This is one cab for the record books and when ever it is 'finished' should go for a MAMEY.
:cheers:
Michael
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*grits his teeth*.........using a claw hammer on a wood chisel! :hissy:
Heh- :-[ Guilty. In my defense tho' it was a choice between that, a 3lb. sledge and a 5 oz. jewlers hammer. To add insult to injury, I'm pretty sure I was using the chisel backwards on at least half of those blows. :-\
@kaytrim - home stretch is right... people at work are already asking me what I'm going to obsess about once this is done. Technically it already did win a Mamey... for "Most Anticipated" which I think later got downgraded to "Most Aggravatingly Slow Progress on a Mame Machine." Either way, I wear that one with pride.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143726)
In a super gratifying twist of irony, since it's another hooky day from work, that sideart will finally be posted later today, done up all finished like, 'ceptin for the lighting of course, that'll have to wait until the fancy electronics get installed.
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Amazing to see this finally wrapping up. :applaud: Since I found this site and read through this crazy long thread I am always checking it, so what if it has taken 7 years! You have gotten exactly what you have planned and desired, better than a lot that just give up and take the short way out to get something playable. Your work never ceases to amaze and is right up there with OND. Congrats!!!
Keep it up the fast forward progress.
P.S. If you finish this by my birthday that would be a awesome and make my day. Although no one would believe you as it is April the 1st... ;D
TEKNYNE
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Very funny video! nice work!
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Dude I simply cannot wait!
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Can't take much credit for the sideart. Another huge thanks to BYOACer June (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=20824.msg168160#msg168160) and her husband Chris for making these logos. (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg193979#msg193979)Funny thing about the stage I'm in on the project now is revisiting the emotions and fun from older parts of the project. I just can't get over how beautiful the aluminum looks on the cherry. Chris did (or had someone do?) a phenomenal job polishing the metal. It absolutely glows. The 1/4" thickness compliments the super thick side panels better than I could have imagined.
The logos were mounted to the surface of the sides after routing a holes to inset more metal. The holes have a lip to allow two levels of metal beneath the logo. So the design is #2B mill polished stainless in back. Then a layer of heavy gauge perforated aluminum panel. Then the rocketsprocket logo on top. I wanted a dimensional feel to the logo treatment as though there were some sort of vent or airlock or something that could emanate light behind it. As mentioned above, the final installation will have LED strip lighting around the circumference of the stepped hole. Blue around the perf panel and UV around the stainless, so the UV light will glow through the holes in the aluminum panel which itself will glow blue under the rocket logo.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143779)
If you look closely you can see how the perf panel floats above the stainless (where it casts a reflection below)…
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143783)
Oh the tastiness… It's really thick.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143781)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143775)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143787)
The drop shadow on this last image is decieving. It makes the perf panel look further behind the logo than it actually is.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143777)
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That's magic, lovely work.
Edit: I just went back to page one thinking ill read through the whole journal.. i got up to page 11 and noticed the posted dates and came close to falling off my chair.. you need a freaking medal for keeping this going with the amount of detail for 5 years :dizzy:
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;) There are probably plenty of members here who would say that's the way to see the thread... without having to wait for all the updates. Like watching the full seasons of LOST on DVD instead of cable. ::)
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I don't post much, but I had to log in and tell you how disgustingly awesome your cab is. The wood is just gorgeous! OUTSTANDING WORK! Love the video, too :applaud:
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Pixelhugger,
You are most certainly on a momentum roll...keep it up! Amazing to see it actually standing assembled after all these years! :cheers:
Question,
Where did you source that perforated aluminium from? I'm thinking that would make a nice vent square for my cab (painted black!).
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Pixelhugger,
You are most certainly on a momentum roll...keep it up! Amazing to see it actually standing assembled after all these years! :cheers:
Question,
Where did you source that perforated aluminium from? I'm thinking that would make a nice vent square for my cab (painted black!).
I got it from mcmaster-carr.com (http://mcmaster-carr.com) - an industrial supply place. I don't know if they ship to the UK. Let me know if you have trouble getting it... I may be able to send a piece. How big is your vent?
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I haven't sized the vent yet but it will likely be 18"x12" or so...
Now that you have the link I at least know what to call it and can look around here in Canada and they do ship here if I can't, so thanks!
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Just incredible. I can't believe it actually has been worth the wait! Are you planning to finish the wood? I wouldn't stain it but maybe give it a nice rubbing with some tung oil or something and then seal it with some poly to bring out the grain. Keep up the great work! :cheers:
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I've been debating the finish for a while.
Trying to decide between oil and wax or a wipe on oil/poly blend. It's cherry so absolutely NO STAIN. :angel:
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I just logged in simply to say congrats on the momentum. Even us non-current guys are still watching this project.
As much as I would say wax that Cherry, I would probably go with the poly, just for maintenance reasons. LOTS of hands end up on those cabinet sides.
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Hey Dave! Great to hear from you again. :) All this stuff from the past coming together.... It's like a high school reunion. :cheers:
Yeah, the maintenance is a real issue. My two year old son... yep the twins that brought the project to a screeching halt are two now... has discovered ball point pens and is drawing on everything from the kitchen hutch (I had refinished when they were born) to the wainscotting. So I'm left wondering.... poly for the stain protection or wax for the ease of *oh god* sanding down and retouching. Probably the poly, since I'm afraid at some point he'll discover *shudders* Sharpies.
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Somehow my boy never was inclined to draw on stuff. He pounds on items with swords/hammers/guns/cars instead. :whap The only way to be completely sure of no damage is to sell your children. ;)
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Probably the poly, since I'm afraid at some point he'll discover *shudders* Sharpies.
You need to know about this. It saved my kids a lot of grief.. mostly my son. Works great on wood and has successfully removed sharpie. However; no guarantees on the Cherry but you still probably need these with twin two year olds.
(Link to a page about Mr Clean Magic Erasers)
http://www.mrclean.com/en_US/magic-eraser.do?gclid=CM-36b2Hw5wCFRMhnAoduAcLoA
(http://www.mrclean.com/en_US/magic-eraser.do?gclid=CM-36b2Hw5wCFRMhnAoduAcLoA)
Good job on the progress! Are you still on track to use 3d Arcade as the front end? I hope so! I'm a huge 3DFE fan. Will you use a skin or do a whole 3d arcade for the project?
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Thanks for that link, Nada. ;D
Yeah, 3DFE. It'll be completed skinned and ultimately there will be several arcades (if I can ever get to them). I want the FE experience to play like a game. Hopefully to those not familiar with MAME (people at my work where I'll keep the cab initially) will mistake the FE for an actual game created for the cabinet.
As far as the skins go once I'm done with construction I'll move into artwork mode which is more my comfort zone. Everything will be provided for download on )p('s site. I want to have various themed collections which can be selected from within the FE (like the different courses on a racing game, or different characters in a fighter.) One of those themes will be "80's videogame magazine" with "articles" for each game genre. Here are a couple of very early/rough works in progress. So as seen below, the game list would be dynamic and the screenshots, marquees, and info would update beneath the wrinkled page texture as games are selected. Anyhow... yes. 3DFE absolutely. For the arcades I've been toying with the idea of creating a mall like environment with themed arcades.... :blah: :blah: :blah:
Sorry if I've already posted/discussed these. It's been a while. ::) :-[
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143858)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143856)
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Wow, that's a really cool frontend idea. :cheers:
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While we're on the subject.... here is a work in progress to integrate the FE into the feel of the cabinet, particularly to match the bezel.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143862)
Not sure if it's possible to have a game list functioning in conjunction with an arcade simultaneously, but this is more an experiment in layout not function. Nowhere near that point yet. I guess the better example would be a list of arcades to choose from on the left, with the preview of the arcade on the right. Whatever. :blah:
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Although that would be really cool of you moved down the list and the avatar moved to stand in front of said machine ;)
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I know 3dfe lets you jump from a list to the matching game in an arcade like that. :P
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With the glue up done it's on to the speaker panel. Nothing groundbreaking here, but it's a nice finishing detail as an alternative to surface mounted speakers.
I cut the shape out of 3/8" thick MDF to match the bottom of the marquee box, inset a few inches.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143837)
I used an inlay bit to cut the shape into the bottom of the marquee box before glue up, so the speaker panel is actually inlaid into the panel with only the bluenosed edge protruding. (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143852)
This was the same process as used to inlay the NavPanel plexi as seen here. (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg523689#msg523689) This keeps the speaker panel much less visible when viewing the cab from most angles, and gives it a clean and inlaid/integrated feel.
Before stretching the fabric I bullnosed the edge with a roundover bit.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143835)
Then used a rabbeting bit to cut a notch into the back of the panel. The rabbet was probably unnecessary in hindsight, the idea was to give the speaker fabric a place to sit while allowing the panel to sit flush against the marquee box. The fabric is so thin I doubt this made a difference.
[imghttp://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=14383[/img]http://(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143833)
Next I painted it black to keep it from showing through once the fabric is on.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143839)
Then I put the panel into the recession in the marquee box and drilled pilot holes through the panel and into the marquee box panel. I used these pilot holes to position my drill holes used to install the speaker retainers seen below. These are fantastic. Available at woodworker.com along with the fabric.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143841)
I attached the fabric with contact cement from home depot. Seems to work the same as regular old elementary school rubber cement, only it smells much more toxic and is probably far stronger. I stretched the fabric diagonally from corner to corner… much easier than I thought it would be. No puckering or funny stretch marks. Super easy.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143843)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143846)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143848)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143850)
The speaker brackets give the panel a nice positive "kerchunk" when it snaps into place. I may post a superfluous video of that since it can't be conveyed in pictures.
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Very nice Pixelhugger...I know we all rib you about the oft delayed timeline but I bet it must feel great to see your plans/vision actually standing and mostly assembled...I can only imagine the impetus this has given to boosting your drive for the final stretch! :cheers:
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I've lived so long with the images in my 3D app and the renders in Photoshop, it's surreal to see the actual thing looming up in front of me. And yep, it's a HUGE motivation. :) I've also learned a bit about how to actually get work done considering my family and schedule. I used to work exclusively during the kids nap time on weekends, but have found now I can actually get as much or more done using small increments of time during the week, before and after work.
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OMG! I just showed a colleague at work and REALLY loudly said "NO ---smurfing--- WAY!". My boss is now staring at me... :-[
Man, that looks unbelievable. Will you be oiling the wood? (:lol)
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Amazing work, every home should have one of these.. care to make a few billion more?
Do you work with wood for a living? cant get over your skills.
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Wow. Very cool. I love that 3d fe. I'm guessing it's emulaxian (i think that's the name anyway). I was never able to figure out how to set that thing up. Kinda of got a little ways with it, but Mala was so much easier.....
Anyway, nice work on the cab. You're on my kind of project schedule :)
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(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143850)
That is just beautiful. :o
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Will you be oiling the wood?
The more I think about it the more I think I'll go with one of those wipe on oil/urethane blends. My boss finished some consoles at work with this stuff (http://woodworker.com/sealacell-clear-mssu-868-647.asp?search=general%20finishes&searchmode=2) and they look amazing.
Do you work with wood for a living?
No. It really just comes down to patience. And obsession with the project.
I'm guessing it's emulaxian (i think that's the name anyway). I was never able to figure out how to set that thing up. Kinda of got a little ways with it, but Mala was so much easier.....
Yeah, Emulaxian-which I think is now officially referred to as 3DFE with Emulaxian now being a skin. The ability to load the 3D arcades is a really big deal for me.
That is just beautiful.
Thanks man. Should just keep gettin better as the finish is applied!
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Thanks for that link, Nada. ;D
Yeah, 3DFE. It'll be completed skinned and ultimately there will be several arcades (if I can ever get to them). I want the FE experience to play like a game. Hopefully to those not familiar with MAME (people at my work where I'll keep the cab initially) will mistake the FE for an actual game created for the cabinet.
As far as the skins go once I'm done with construction I'll move into artwork mode which is more my comfort zone. Everything will be provided for download on )p('s site. I want to have various themed collections which can be selected from within the FE (like the different courses on a racing game, or different characters in a fighter.) One of those themes will be "80's videogame magazine" with "articles" for each game genre. Here are a couple of very early/rough works in progress. So as seen below, the game list would be dynamic and the screenshots, marquees, and info would update beneath the wrinkled page texture as games are selected. Anyhow... yes. 3DFE absolutely. For the arcades I've been toying with the idea of creating a mall like environment with themed arcades.... :blah: :blah: :blah:
Sorry if I've already posted/discussed these. It's been a while. ::) :-[
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143858)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=143856)
Do you have the files for these to where I could adapt them? Or is this a signature trademark to your project that you don't want to give up? Or are these just mockups that aren't really adaptable.
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I don't mean to speak for Pixelhugger, but from the same post you quoted:
Everything will be provided for download on )p('s site.
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Pixel,
may I suggest this for the finishing of your wood;
http://www.sutherlandwelles.com/ (http://www.sutherlandwelles.com/)
I have built and refinished antique furniture and there is nothing better in my opinion. It's the only thing I will put on wood. I even did my wood floors with it.
You don't want to put plastic (poly) on that.
Advantages:
Wipe on.
Builds to a nice sheen - what ever sheen you like depending on which you used.
Very hard finish that doesn't look like plastic.
Penetrates into the grain and really brings out the depth and make the grain pop. Plastic sits on the surface.
Easy repairs - let say you get a scratch, all you do is lightly sand the area and wipe on some more.
Don't need to worry about a clean room for application, you sand lightly between applications.
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I was trying to solve a problem with building speaker grills and your design of the external frame that snaps in side is brilliant. You said you had a video that shows it snapping into place I'd be curious to see that unless of course work blocked it and I just cant see it.
Great work.
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Jeeez that looks like a high end speaker that costs £$£$£$£$!
Certainly making up for lost time....
+1 on some form of oil.
Cheers
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Forgot to post the brackets. The little arm thingie moves freely under the rectangular thingie to allow some flexibility in positioning the panel. The rectangular thing is exactly 1 1/8" long, so it countersinks perfectly with the same bit you drill button holes with.
I got them at woodworker.com (http://woodworker.com/detachable-panel-connector-mssu-936-967.asp?search=speaker%20bracket&searchmode=2)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144327)
@kizer: glad it helped. I wasn't sure posting the speaker panel build was going to be relevant to anyone, so that's good to hear. I'll get a video up soon.
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@mpm and wilno- Awright you guys have me thinking again. Tung oil was my original plan before seeing the console finish at work. The "plastic" comparison puts the fear of god in me.
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OK, here's a video showing the snaptastic function of the brackets. Pretty superflous, but worth the upload IMO
SPEAKER PANEL ATTACH.mov (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PJdgDGb_jt0#ws)
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^^^ Oh SNAP! :cheers:
So.. are you ready to post some pics of the whole cab as it is right now? I'd like to see how the wood looks.
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^^^ Oh SNAP! :cheers:
So.. are you ready to post some pics of the whole cab as it is right now? I'd like to see how the wood looks.
It's damn near impossible to get good pictures of the wood since it's in the garage with only florescent lighting and work lamps. I'll try tho'. I need to secure the bezel in it's final position, then attach the CP in it's final position. At that point I'll post some "State of The Project" pics.
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Dang, every time i view this thread and all its updates, it kinda puts my little build its in place, namely the trash heap :cry:.
All i can say is :notworthy:
Seriously though, excellent workmanship on this beauty. :applaud:
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WOW - 6+ years and you're posting videos of speaker grilles snapping in place.. :laugh2:
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WOW - 6+ years and you're posting videos of speaker grilles snapping in place.. :laugh2:
...and we're loving it because it is so damn well done.
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Yeah no kidding. I have to solve that issue with my Jukebox project that some day I might actually build. hahaha
I keep designing things in my head, but then I look at issues and well some are magically solved. Thanks for the link too.
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WOW - 6+ years and you're posting videos of speaker grilles snapping in place.. :laugh2:
That's nothin'. You should see the video of me standing in line at the McMaster-Carr will call desk.
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@mpm and wilno- Awright you guys have me thinking again. Tung oil was my original plan before seeing the console finish at work. The "plastic" comparison puts the fear of god in me.
With the sutherland wells products, it's not just tung oil, it's polymerized to harden so it def won't look like just an oil finish, it will build.
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Do you have the files for these to where I could adapt them? Or is this a signature trademark to your project that you don't want to give up? Or are these just mockups that aren't really adaptable.
Basically what Shmokes said. ;)
They are built from a mix of Illustrator files with the paper effect added in Photoshop. So any adapting would have to be done in AI. But, yeah everything will be made available including the stuff designed primarily for my cab (the bezel example above). Ultimately there will be full sets of artwork for "customizing"/branding cab projects. So for a given design there'll be a marquee, sideart, bezel, CP, and FE skin which will all match for an integrated feel.
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Wow Pixel!!! I have not checked this thread in like 2 years. I am glad to see that you are still at it. It is coming along great!!! It looks like the render is really coming to life now. Keep up the stellar work. I hope it is done before the world ends in 2012 because I do want to see how it looks when it is finished.
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I rarely log on to the forum anymore but every time I do I'm sure to check out your thread. So today, just like 3 years ago when I found your thread the first time I again get to experience the Mission Control cliff-hanger 4 new pages of updates and it's still just a taste. Great progress, I may have to check in more often now that you seem to be rolling along, and I'm trying to finish a 2 year project for my dad.
Keep it up, it's an inspiration.
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Thanks for the ecouragement guys. I'm prepping another update for miscellaneous fixes, the CP mounting, the walnut trim panels beneath the CP, and the curved kick plate/coin door panel.
Just thought I'd ask since there's such a broad user base on BYOAC now... anyone in southern california with a vacuum bag press for laminate and veneer gluing want to help out? My garage or yours. It'd need to pull about 1.2 CFM in a 2'x4' bag. Maybe even 3.2 CFM in a 4x4 bag. I need to laminate 4 curved panels into shape against 4 forms and then veneer them. These will end up as the coin door panel and three top and rear panels to follow the cabinets curves. If nobody local can help out I'm facing the uncomfortable position of having to buy a kit and compressor for $500+ :dunno
Anyone? Anyone? .... Bueller??
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When I saw the word laminate I panicked there for a second.... ;D
When can we see the finished side panels - have you decided what to use yet?
Looking forward to what you are planning for the coin door panel - keeping it simple eh. ;)
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When I saw the word laminate I panicked there for a second.... ;D
:laugh2: Nah, laminate as in multiple pieces of 1/8" poplar glued up into a curve. :angel: Solid wood wherever humanly possible. I was initially considering this multiple ply build up and veneering for the curved panel front of the CP (the panel that will flip down with a keyboard in it above the coin door kickplate) until my dad recoiled at the idea of veneer and suggested I cut it on his bandsaw from the same 8/4 cherry used on the sides. Since the arc only protrudes about an inch I think that'll work. The rest of the curved panels have to be veneered cherry over bendable poplar due to their size.
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As far as the finish I've decided on Tung oil. I may go with the polymerized stuff for the top coat.
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May as well post pics to clarify what I'm talking about.
First I cut a bunch of arcs out of poplar following the same jig I used to create the front of the control panel.
Next I clamped them together to sand out any irregularities in their shapes.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146220)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146218)
Then I screwed them onto a scrap sheet of plywood.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146222)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146216)
This will be used as a jig to bend sheets of 1/8" bendable poplar to create an arched panel veneered with cherry beneath the CP. I'll mount the coin door in the center of it on top of a piece of walnut which will have a concave curve in the back to negate the curve of the cherry panel and give the coin door a flat surface to mount to. To either side of the arched coin door panel will be walnut trim pieces. Between that and the cabinet sides will be aluminum perf panel treated the same way as seen behind the rocketsprocket logo.
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Oh good lord.. what this project needs is more attention to detail. :laugh2:
I can't wait to see how this turns out and I can't imagine how you know what to do as a plan to make this work out. I don't think you're a cabinet maker or carpenter, I thought you were a digital guy by trade, how do you know how to do all this stuff?
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Oh good lord.. what this project needs is more attention to detail. :laugh2:
As in "spare us the pictures and write up of minor details" or as in "the project itself is too detailed" Cause I'll apologize for the first but not the latter. :afro:
I thought you were a digital guy by trade, how do you know how to do all this stuff?
Simple.
I don't.
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Walnut next to the cherry is going to look lush.
Will the walnut panel look anything like this? If so how are you going to create the curved alcove shape?
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=146237)
Keep up the good work.
Cheers
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That's exactly the idea. The only difference being that I'll likely only cut the curve in the top and the bottom edges. The sides will be cut at 45º and the center will be open (like a picture frame).
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As in "spare us the pictures and write up of minor details" or as in "the project itself is too detailed" Cause I'll apologize for the first but not the latter. :afro:
I thought you were a digital guy by trade, how do you know how to do all this stuff?
Simple.
I don't.
Oh no.. I love the detail it's just really amazing. I check this form once a day and always love to see the updates coming. Don't take my joke as a derision, it's praise. I'm just amazed.
As for not knowing how to do this, wow... Then that's amazing.
So, in short, keep up the good work, don't spare the detail and keep blowing my mind. :)
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Pixel It's great to see progress on this extreme arcade cabinet of yours. Awesome work as always I look forward to the final finishing.
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Cue the Journey, REO Speedwagon and Night Ranger. Father's Day is all Mission Control. All day. Massive update coming soon! Like an 80's power ballad... only instead of jilted lovers and the lonliness of touring with roadies, it's all vacuum pressing and curved panel coin door love. :afro: :afro: :afro:
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Lots to update.
The biggest remaining challenge on the project has been creating a number of curved panels… for the coin door/kick plate panel and for the top and back of the cabinet. Originally I thought a sheet of thin cherry plywood could be kerfed and bent, but the curves turned out to be too tight to bend plywood. Even a sheet of kerfed 1/8" masonite split when bending to make one of the forms.
So I decided to bend and laminate 3 sheets of 1/8" bendable poplar together and then veneer them with cherry. After months of hesitation and reading about veneering online I finally caved to the pressure to build a vacuum press to properly, accurately, and evenly bend, glue, and veneer the different shapes. There may have been ways to accomplish this without the press but I didn't trust myself improvising so I went with what seemed like the closest thing to a standard procedure.
So figure 1 is the recently completed vacuum press. Initially it felt like overkill going through so much work just to finish one aspect of the cabinet, but since seeing OND's scratch built Ionic Velvetizing Wand (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=88912.msg1092714#msg1092714) I felt better. Thanks and props to OND for putting my obsession in perspective ;)
Building the vacuum press
Here's how the vacuum press works….
You connect a (surprisingly large capacity) air compressor to the device on one end and a vacuum bag to the other. The compressor blows air through a restricted opening which creates a vacuum in an attached hose. The air gets sucked out of the PVC tubes through this hose and they become negatively pressurized (?) as all the air is sucked out of the attached bag. At least I think that's how it works. The system creates an insanely strong vacuum in the bag pulling down with a pressure of almost 1500 lbs. per square foot.
"21 inches of mercury" was the magic number for the press to work...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=148978;image)
So I think it's equivalent to parking your car on top of whatever you are pressing in the bag. And then another car on top of that. Unless your car is a Hummer.
I got the plans and most of the parts to build the press from veneersupplies.com. (http://www.veneersupplies.com) This site was the storefront for the educational/how to veneering site joewoodworker.com (http://www.joewoodworker.com/veneering/vacuumforming.htm) which was absolutely indispensable in learning how to do this since I had never touched veneer, much less bent lamination before.
Over memorial day weekend my wife took the kids to the inlaws so considering the kit is buildable in 2-3 hrs, I figured I'd make some huge progress while home alone. It's a good thing I don't make these for a living because I started buying the parts not included in the kit at about 10am and was done with the final kit at about 1AM. I was done with the first panel by 5am! WOOT!!! It was the first non-professional all nighter I've pulled since college.
The following is a breakdown of the vacuum press build. Scroll to my next post if you'd like to skip the details of the press construction and get to the actual bending.
This is the manifold assembly. Nothing tricky here, just wrapping threads with tape and following the kit instructions.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149587;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149585;image)
Lots of time was spent dealing with drilling the holes for the manifold to attach to the PVC tubes. I wasted lots of time trying to figure out the best way to approach this without a drill press (since the holes have to be absolutely straight to be threaded and seal the vacuum pressure)… I finally hacked my own drill press thingy together from MDF and 2x4's with a cheap-o drill guide I had pretty much discarded years ago. Not sure if this contraption helped or not. Probably not.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149579;image)
I didn't have a tap kit to thread the holes either. I took a shot at threading them with the brass fittings themselves which was unnerving but worked. The only tricky part was getting the fitting to start straight which I just couldn't get right by hand or with a ratchet. Someone online threaded theirs using their drill press which was genius. In that regard my ghetto drill assembly did help.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149595;image)
Here's the pipe cap all threaded and ready to be glued onto the pipe.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149581;image)
From there it was just wiring the thing according to the step by step instructions, building a wooden frame for it (according to the directions) and then testing it.
This is the completed press.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149573;image)
I was convinced the thing wouldn't work since I didn't use the recommended drill press or tap kit. Considering that the brass fittings screwed in like hot bolts into cold butter I was sure I had messed up the threading and they'd leak under pressure. But the thing held and after a few test runs I had my first panel completed.
The actual bending
So each of the curved panels in the project will be laminated together from 3 sheets of bendable poplar plus a layer of cherry veneer on the top and bottom. Essentially it makes a custom piece of plywood in whatever shape you bend it to while gluing. The resulting arc is remarkably strong and light.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149599;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149583;image)
To start I made a form for the kick panel/coin door area out of poplar and masonite. The poplar arcs were cut to a shape I drew and printed from Illustrator as seen earlier on this page. Unfortunately that all had to be scrapped and redone since the original arc, which matched the control panel, was basically imperceptible once I put the masonite on it. So I recut all the poplar and assembled the final jig.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149591;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149577;image)
To bend the panel I just rolled veneer glue over each piece of poplar and the two pieces of veneer, kept them aligned with a screw and stuck it in the vacuum bag with a sheet of mesh on top to keep air from getting trapped. A couple minutes later it was drawn to it's final shape and allowed to cure.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149597;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149713;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149711;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149589;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149571;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149567;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149569;image)
The coin door gets mounted to this arched panel. Since the door is flat I'm sandwiching a piece of walnut with a concave arch in the back between it and the curve to allow the coin door to lay flush. Wilno45's example pic above of what I needed to make explains the part far better than I ever could.
I traced the arch of the cherry panel onto a piece of MDF to make a template for cutting the concave arc into the walnut. I used a 3/4" top bearing trim bit in my router to cut the top and bottom edges of the walnut down to where the opening for the coin door would be. Before continuing I used an MDF template to trim the panel to the shape of the coin door (adding about 1/2" to use as trim) and then blulnosed that.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149632;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149618;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149616;image)
I tested the fit against the cherry and was super happy with the result.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149620;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149609;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149613;image)
So that gave me a nice flush fit between the walnut and the cherry for the top and bottom edges of the walnut "bezel" To trim the side edges I used a 45deg chamfer bit, making sure to set it just far enough back that it would cut right to the edge of the side.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149701;image)
To use the chamfer bit I first cut channels for it to ride in as a guide.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149607;image)
Then cut the 45 deg edges
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149601;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149603;image)
Next I flipped the panel over and used the router and a small hand saw to cut out the opening for the coin door. I had also bullnosed the edges with the router.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149624;image)
The notches in the sides are for some tab thingies on the back of the coin door. Here's what the final part looks like. Very similar to Wilno's example seen here:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149687;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149682;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149628;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149626;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149605;image])
After trimming the cherry kick panel to the same angle as the cab (wider at top, narrower at base), I cut two poplar braces off the form I used to bend the panel since these would fit perfectly into the back. These are glued to the base of the panel and top of the panel to give it some attachment points to mount it, as well as to increase it's rigidity should any one actually *kick* the kick panel.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149636;image[/[img]
[img]http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149638;image)
Next I cut some angled strips to place on the back of the arched panel to give the coin door brackets a flush surface to clamp to.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149672;image)
In order to reach the angled strips I replaced the bolts on the coin door and added some washers for the tabs to attach to.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149666;image)
The sides of the coin door panel/kick plate are trimmed in walnut made from a piece of hardwood t-molding like the front trim of the CP, glued to a piece of 3/4" walnut. These flank the sides of the curved cherry panel. The t-molding gets pretty thin towards it's edge so I epoxied a strip of 3/8 x 38" sanded plexi to the inside edge of each trim piece. I cut the edge of the plastic that faces the cherry at an angle so it sits flush. This plastic will act like a cleat to brace the edge of the walnut should anyone… again…. actually kick the kickpanel. In the space behind the plastic I'll mount a stip of white LEDs so the edges of the trim will give off a soft diffused glow across the curved cherry face of the kickpanel, which will hopefully accentuate it's curve.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149648;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149668;image)
Thin edge….
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149650;image[/img
Plastic strips for bracing/lighting…
[img]http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149634;image)
You can barely see the plastic in the upper left section of trim in this pic…
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149691;image)
I cut the bottom of these trim pieces to allow them to sit at the same angle as the cab sides. Then I attached the walnut trim to the curved panel at the braces I had cut from the form earlier.
Once all that was assembled I traced the profile of it's base to a piece of MDF with about a 1/2" offset to use as a template for cutting a base for it to sit on.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149658;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149660;image)
Once the base was cut out I had to trim the edges at the same angle as the cabinet's sides. I used the "RBAAD" for this ;)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149662;image)
Here's the base on the kick panel….
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149674;image)
A while back I had cut two large trim panels to sit inset on either side of the cabinet.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149678;image)
These flank the coin door panel assembly. Once I aligned the base of the coin door between these I kerfed them to allow the installation of perf panel between them.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149654;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149656;image)
Some sanding, staining and perf panel cutting and the parts were assembled into their final positions.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149705;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149703;image)
Next it was on to the curved front panel of the CP….
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Amazing workmanship! It's also really inspiring and insightful to see how you work, Amazing documentation and pictures. Thank you!
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:notworthy: WTF this is incredible, OMG ...OMG :applaud: fricking awesome that is all I can say. I bet those arcade companies wished they had you back in the days. Keep up the good work. Everyday I log on this forum just to look for your work. I get sad when i don't see anything new. But I also know that you can't rush perfection this machine is going to be priceless.
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Thanks! My camera gets pretty dusty. Especially with all the MDF :angry:
Sometimes I can't decide which takes longer... building the parts or updating the thread. I haven't wanted to interrupt the progress since I have several deadlines with it, so all of this has really piled up! :embarassed:
I'm glad someone gets insight from it all. It's actually been harder to figure out HOW to build these parts than to actually make them. Harder, but often even more fun....
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I bet those arcade companies wished they had you back in the days.
... to bankrupt them. :-[ >:D
Everyday I log on this forum just to look for your work. I get sad when i don't see anything new.
Wow thats probably the biggest compliment I've gotten in this thread. :) :afro:
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Breathtaking... :applaud:
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I like your blackboard. It's like the lair of a madman, scheming away... :cheers: Your cabinet looks my something by Da Vinci.
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Dude, if someone actually kicks your kick panel, you need to just punch them in the face. Seriously. :bat
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I like your blackboard. It's like the lair of a madman, scheming away... :cheers:
Mwahahaha
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Dude, if someone actually kicks your kick panel, you need to just punch them in the face. Seriously. :bat
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Your cabinet looks my something by Da Vinci.
Aww.....Busted...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149739;image)
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Your cabinet looks my something by Da Vinci.
Aww.....Busted...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149739;image)
Excellent Post :laugh:
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:applaud:
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Let me know when these kits go for sale. Thanks.
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Let me know when these kits go for sale. Thanks.
:laugh2:
Maybe people can pre-order and pay in advance :angel:
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:o
Your photo should be inserted into the dictionary next to the meaning of skill, omg and f***
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Let me know when these kits go for sale. Thanks.
Heh heh... no kits until I have a 8'x8' cnc machine, kids out of college and a fat retirement package.
However... before then you can pick up one of these attractively packaged collectible 8" PVC commemorative multi-articulated limited edition action figures for an outrageously low price at ComiCon this year. ::)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149751;image)
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:notworthy: :cheers:
Stunning Pixel...stunning.
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Let me know when these kits go for sale. Thanks.
Heh heh... no kits until I have a 8'x8' cnc machine, kids out of college and a fat retirement package.
However... before then you can pick up one of these attractively packaged collectible 8" PVC commemorative multi-articulated limited edition action figures for an outrageously low price at ComiCon this year. ::)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149751;image)
I'd so buy one! you never Cease to amaze me pixel as always superb.
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Pixelhugger, fantastic work - simply stunning.
:applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
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Haha - those won't display well however; the hang tab should be in the back. Unless the rear of your cabinet is more interesting than the front...
:)
Let me know when these kits go for sale. Thanks.
Heh heh... no kits until I have a 8'x8' cnc machine, kids out of college and a fat retirement package.
However... before then you can pick up one of these attractively packaged collectible 8" PVC commemorative multi-articulated limited edition action figures for an outrageously low price at ComiCon this year. ::)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=149751;image)
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Aww.....Busted...
Haha nice!
The writing should be backwards though... ;)
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Heh heh... Hey man, I didn't build the box. ;) I just put the goods inside. You'd be surprized how hard it is to find just the right toy packaging on google images. Beggars can't be choosers. :angel:
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Heh heh... Hey man, I didn't build the box. ;) I just put the goods inside. You'd be surprized how hard it is to find just the right toy packaging on google images. Beggars can't be choosers. :angel:
No no, I meant the Da Vinci image! Da Vinci was known for his "mirrored writing", right to left (http://www.mos.org/sln/leonardo/leonardorighttoleft.html). Yeah, I'm an art nerd. :D
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Heh... I was responding to Havok. Sorry I shoulda quoted. ;)
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Fixed broken link to OND's scratch built Ionic Velvetizing Wand (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=88912.msg1092714#msg1092714) mentioned at the start of this update. :afro:
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Beautiful work. I think what I like most about this project is the successful realisation of the arcade machine as furniture quality art. The level of effort put into this design is evident in the gracefull curves and choice of timber colors. Actually playing games on this cab is almost secondary to taking it in as art IMO. Labour intensive projects like this may move along at glacial speed (mine included) but the results are worth it.
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Many pages ago someone asked why I didn't just cut the sides from plywood since other "furniture" or "woodgrain" cabs use it. I responded with a picture to explain that not all furniture is the same thing. (None of this is my work):
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=13118.0;attach=19394;image)
There is the local Furniture Warehouse and then there is Stickley.... or Rohlf. Recently I've been really impressed with Straight Line Design's (http://www.straightlinedesigns.com/hips.html)whimsical furniture.
Anyhow... I mention all this because I truly appreciate the reference to the cabinet as artistic. Taking myself too seriously as usual, I like to think of the cab as an artistic project... so it's fun to hear that coming from outside my little bubble of a vacuum.
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OK, so this is not directly Mission Control related... at least not for anything more than the logo, but I just had to post this somewhere.
I've been a huge J. Scott Campbell fan for years. His Danger Girl comic has had a big impact on my interest in illustration and is about the only comic book I've ever bought. Anyhow, I went down to ComiCon last weekend after being so pissed I missed the Tron/Flynn's Arcade event last year and accidentally stumbled across Campbell signing books and prints. I had my sketchbook with me so I waited/lurked/stalked his table and during a lull in the line he sketched his Danger Girl heroine Abbey Chase for me..... with my project logo featured.... errrrr.... prominently! :) :) So cool when your heroes actually turn out to be nice people.
Getting the sketch eclipsed my initial reason for going, but yes... they did have Flynn's Arcade recreated from the movie so that was awesome as well. Got me my TRON tokens!!!!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=150843)
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That's awesome! :cheers:
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Forgot to post the brackets. The little arm thingie moves freely under the rectangular thingie to allow some flexibility in positioning the panel. The rectangular thing is exactly 1 1/8" long, so it countersinks perfectly with the same bit you drill button holes with.
I got them at woodworker.com (http://woodworker.com/detachable-panel-connector-mssu-936-967.asp?search=speaker%20bracket&searchmode=2)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144327)
@kizer: glad it helped. I wasn't sure posting the speaker panel build was going to be relevant to anyone, so that's good to hear. I'll get a video up soon.
I really like this. So you made a recess in the wood for the rectangular part to sit in and then mounted the round part on the peice that it snaps to, protruding from it? How deep is the hole?
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Yeah, exactly. Only now I'm not totally sure why I countersunk the rectangular portion. Maybe it was to decrease how much of the speaker panel protruded... tho I guess I could have achieved that by routing the recession in the walnut panel deeper. Hrrmmmm. This kind of thing happens routinely on the project. I'll have some breakthrough idea at the coffee house only to forget why it was important later when not so focused on it. *sigh* But anyhow... the brackets are great. KERCHUNK!
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Oh, you asked about the hole... it's just slightly deeper than the rectangular part is thick. So maybe 1/16 or 3/32 or something. :afro:
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(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=150843)
This is AWESOME. You need to trim that page up and get it framed. Amazing piece for the room.
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Wow - just read the update. That coin door/kick panel is just about the nicest thing I've seen on this site. Not only do you have incredible skills but you have incredible patience which I think is the key to any successful project. :cheers:
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More patience than skills for sure.
Ironically it's about the nicest thing on the project itself. As long as this stuff takes to build and update, it felt like it came together kind of suddenly. I guess it's 'cause I really hadn't given it that much attention through the project. Up to this point all the renders left a big black square where all this goes. So when it came to actually building it.... the thing sort of came out of nowhere, without any renders or tons of planning. So I'm still trying to get used to the look and feel of it. A couple of people have compared it to a Hammond organ which drives me NUTS. :angry: ;)
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wow that front panel is looking great.
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Anyhow... I mention all this because I truly appreciate the reference to the cabinet as artistic.
Couldn't have said it better myself.
I haven't been hanging around here as long and many of you guys, and there are plenty of people here that know WAY WAY more than I do about this. Plus, I'm not really quite as hardcore a gamer and many around here, BUT, I really love the way that these cabs bring several of my favorite things; art, woodworking, computers, software, hardware and creativity together.
Sure, there's people that really just love the games and build a straightforward cab quickly so they can get to the gaming, and there's nothing wrong with that at all.
Then there's those that want to do more, go that extra step (or mile) and really create something unique. I like watching both. There's plenty to learn from each!
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Forgot to post the brackets. The little arm thingie moves freely under the rectangular thingie to allow some flexibility in positioning the panel. The rectangular thing is exactly 1 1/8" long, so it countersinks perfectly with the same bit you drill button holes with.
I got them at woodworker.com (http://woodworker.com/detachable-panel-connector-mssu-936-967.asp?search=speaker%20bracket&searchmode=2)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144327)
@kizer: glad it helped. I wasn't sure posting the speaker panel build was going to be relevant to anyone, so that's good to hear. I'll get a video up soon.
hey Pixelhugger - how much weight can these things support? I am trying to think of alternatives to hinging my coin door panel (because it is a pain to install and it seems to sag over time) and this might be the easiest solution.
Thanks. :cheers:
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I can't imagine they'd hold that kind of weight, unfortunately. If it's sagging maybe you could chisel a notch for each mounting tab to fit in so there's a lip to give it resistance?
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hey Pixelhugger - how much weight can these things support? I am trying to think of alternatives to hinging my coin door panel (because it is a pain to install and it seems to sag over time) and this might be the easiest solution.
Thanks. :cheers:
I just got a couple of angle brackets and put one on the door (opposite the hinge), and the other on the side panel. So when the door is closed it is supported on both sides--by the hinge on one side, by the bracket on the other.
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I was thinking, if you sold that cab fully completed, how much would it go for?
Now I know you might say "I will never sell it!" but honestly, what do you guys reckon? I am thinking it has to be in the 10k+ region. I don't know how much the materials cost (but I could bloody guess!) but the labour on it must be a ---smurfette---! ;)
I'd be interested Pixel, what figure would you provide in a quote "if" you had to make another one?
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Yeah, the better question is how much would you charged if you were commissioned to make another one. This one undoubtedly has sentimental attachment that would drive the price up.
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Exactly. Plus I'm not very efficient at this kind of thing.
I guess the question is how much would it cost to have it made, since I'm sure others could do it far more cost effectively than I could. Custom woodwork like this could probably be done around 75/hr. I've long since lost track of the actual cost of materials, so you'd have to guestimate that. Same with the hours spent, although again, I'm sure others could do it far faster than I could.
As far as what I'd commission something like this for…. Man, that's hard to say since such a thing would take all my free time for at least a couple of years. I think we all like to believe our cabs are more valuable than than anyone would actually pay for them. ;)
One of the first questions people not familiar with the hobby usually ask is if I'm planning on mass producing the project, or making them to sell. My response is always that I'd love to, but everything that makes the project cool or interesting also makes it impossible to recreate profitably. At least for me.
If I had to guess, I'd bet it'd be almost impossible to sell for the cost of materials themselves. Which is why people don't make many things out of solid wood.. much less 2" thick.
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Two years!!! I doubt that. You've learned so much and developed skills while making this one. You're next one would go much faster. Not only that, but you'd be getting paid.
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Blast you shmokes. You've forced me to tip my cards... I do have one commission.....
For: One. Million. Dollars.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=151584;image)
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:lol
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Hahahaha, brilliant. But seriously, give me a price or the kitty gets it... ;D
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Forgot to post the brackets. The little arm thingie moves freely under the rectangular thingie to allow some flexibility in positioning the panel. The rectangular thing is exactly 1 1/8" long, so it countersinks perfectly with the same bit you drill button holes with.
I got them at woodworker.com (http://woodworker.com/detachable-panel-connector-mssu-936-967.asp?search=speaker%20bracket&searchmode=2)
In addition to being highly entertaining, this post is such a wealth of information - in spite of everything being called "thingies" :D
Thanks for sharing, I ordered some "detachable panel connectors" for my build today :laugh2:
You rock Pixel!
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You rock Pixel!
Well, he has had six years of practice...
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I am super glad I'm pretty new to these forums. Had I been watching this thread for 7 years I would have wanted to do very mean things to you for taking so long to build this awesome cabinet. However, since I went through all 37 (largely skimming through filler) in one day I have to say that this is really cool. I'm having a hard time getting my project started here too since real life things keep coming up so I understand how time can get away from you. It has only been a few weeks since I bought mine cabinet and there isn't a single day that I'm not thinking about it, planning it, browsing the internet looking for things and it's killing me that I don't have the time/space at the moment to get real work done. Here's hoping you actually finish this thing soon!
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Welcome to the thread! Good timing, as I'm prepping the biggest update so far... CP front and curved top and back panels. Lots to write and upload!
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Pixelhugger-
This is truly an awesome project. Believe it or not, this project has inspired me to do more with my simple project. You truly embody the adage, 'If you are going to do something, it's worth doing right.'
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Welcome to the thread! Good timing, as I'm prepping the biggest update so far... CP front and curved top and back panels. Lots to write and upload!
When shall I start your drum roll, sir?
;D
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Welcome to the thread! Good timing, as I'm prepping the biggest update so far... CP front and curved top and back panels. Lots to write and upload!
When shall I start your drum roll, sir?
;D
I'd say, given his current rate of progress, in about another year or two... :burgerking:
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Next up was the front of the control panel.
This panel bridges the gap between the edge of the CP and the kick panel/coin door below.
The panel is curved at about the same radius as the CP and inset about a 1/2" from its edge. Initially I was going to build it with the same bent lamination approach as the other panels but decided instead to cut it from a piece of solid wood. Since I don't have a band saw I used a 2" long straight bit to follow the curved MDF template with the base of the router. The template is the thinner piece of MDF set back a few inches in the picture. The 3/4" MDF was just a base for the router to ride on. The board itself, about 4 3/8" wide, is screwed into a piece of plywood clamped to the table to allow me to cut the face along a vertical plane.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=156966;image)
Once I had reached the limit of the cutting edge of the bit, and after having risked life, limb and (by cutting at crotch level… ) manhood, with the shank of the bit short of the minimum recommended insertion depth in the collet, I flipped the board over, screwed it back into the table edge and cut the remaining 2" with a bottom bearing flush trim bit using the previously cut face as a guide instead of the template.
I repeated the first half of this procedure with another 2" wide piece of cherry which I glued to the edge of the first to create a sharp edged step effect in the middle of the panel.
Because, like the people I work with in my real life, my logo can never be too big or appear in too many places, I wanted to put one front and center on the panel. Even if it looks a bit like a rodeo championship belt buckle trophy.
I wanted the cherry to curve around the logo (as seen in the render below)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=156964;image)
Doing that was a 2 step process. First I needed to cut a concave back for the half circle piece to sit flush against the arc of the cherry panel it goes on top of. Then I needed to cut the half circle shape itself.
To cut the concave portion I used the piece of MDF left over from the template I cut for the CP panel arc in the earlier step.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=150952;image)
Once that was cut I flipped the cherry over and attached a 5" diameterer pine clock face thing I bought at Michael's (local chain craft store) to use as a template.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=150950;image)
I only needed the bottom of the circle and in retrospect should have cut a piece much larger than that, since once the router got to the edge of the half circle piece I was cutting, the piece disappeared with a SNAP and I had to go looking for it in the garage. I guess double sided tape doesn't count proper bracing in this application, but luckily the piece wasn't blown apart and I was able to file off/sand down the edge that snapped using the the clockface as a guide and move on.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=150948;image)
This little half circle, concave on the back face and flat on top, got glued to the face of the inset portion of the CP panel and to the edge of the overhanging larger portion of the panel. I then sanded it down to match the arc of the larger overhang. The net effect is that the semicircle is part of the top overhang and looks machined out of that piece.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=156942;image)
I cut a circular recession behind the where the logo will go to place a stainless background and a piece of perf panel to give it a similar vent like dimensional feel like the side art.
To attach the logo I used a crazy steel epoxy putty to fasten a bolt onto the back. At the hardware store they had a product display with a golf ball puttied to the side of a smooth glass soda bottle. I figured any adhesive that could do that was worth using so I bought some. Turns out it works just like it says. It's basically an epoxy putty that dries hard like metal once it's blended together. You just cut some magic putty off the enchanted putty log, mash it around with your fingers to activate the hardening process, then spread it wherever you need it. I felt like I should be sticking a wire in it to blow open a vault. In fact I enjoyed using it so much I put together an altered package shot with some I Photoshopped to post here. ::)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=156940;image)
More tomorrow. It's a bit overwhelming to get all the pics and write-ups organized and posted, so the next few posts will come in parts…
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Oooohhhh aaahhhhh update that's a really nice looking cab wish I could work wood like that.
Hm would that putty work good to attach bolts to the back of a metal cp?
LOL on the package does it say in the use on part Mame cabinets?
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Heh... yeah. If you alt click the picture and open it in a new window so you see it full size it's easier to read.
I sure love me some joke packaging. :P
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Hm would that putty work good to attach bolts to the back of a metal cp?
I would think it would work perfectly. It's not expensive so I'd say buy some and test it out. :) I used a flat head bolt to give me a tapered edge to feather the putty over.
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A Rodeo belt buckle, huh? :applaud:
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Hm would that putty work good to attach bolts to the back of a metal cp?
I would think it would work perfectly. It's not expensive so I'd say buy some and test it out. :) I used a flat head bolt to give me a tapered edge to feather the putty over.
I gots to get me some of 'dat. Totally solves my 'how will I attach bolts to the bottom of my metal CP?' question!!!!
:applaud: :applaud:
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Before this project I had never really used epoxies before. I thought of them more like a fancy glue. Now they seem more like cold welding to me. They're just amazing, especially for those applications that require bridging a gap.
You know you're getting some quality project time when your wife comes back from the grocery store, gives you a suspicious look and says "Why do I smell adhesives?
Why does the whole house smell like adhesives??? >:D
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After pretty much completing the front of the panel, I realized I had made enough adjustments to it's dimensions along the way that it no longer allowed for a keyboard to comfortably fit recessed on the back (the plan is to integrate a keyboard on the backside). I decided to add more height to the panel with a strip of walnut which I glued on and routed flush with the existing arc of the panel.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157007;image)
I didn't think I could stain the walnut once glued and cut flush to the cherry so I decided to add a piece of metal to separate them. I used the slot cutting router bit I had bought for the t-molding of my first CP (about 10 years ago!). Making two passes, I cut a channel 1/8" wide to allow a strip of aluminum to fit inside. Next I cut the aluminum to the right length and tapped it in, fastening it with the same crazy steel epoxy.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157009;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157005;image)
Originally I planned to attach the logo directly to the cherry, but in cutting the recession behind it, I accidentally cut a bit off center so I decided to hid the mistake behind a mini logo bezel/trim piece cut from walnut. I used another (larger) clockface as a jig to cut a piece of walnut about an inch larger than the logo itself. I planed this down as far as I could, and bluenosed the edge to keep it from protruding too much from the cherry panel (didn't want the cabinet to look like it had been born with an "outie") While this looks nicely consistent with the rest of the 2 tone design of the cabinet, it was really design by accident. Ah, well.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=156962;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=156988;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=156986;image)
Next up is the inlaid keyboard on the back of the panel….
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That 'mistake' actually looks great!
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Looks great.
Is there a reason you decided to have the background perforated metal next to the logo rather than with a gap like the sides?
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Blast you for noticing that inconsistency! But also thanks for caring. ;)
Initially I tried it with the perf under the walnut, but it made the logo look more projected off the surface of the panel and less flush. I should probably go back and split the difference. ::) That said, once the perf on the side logos is permanently installed, it'll be a bit closer to the surface. Not touching as this is, but closer.
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Forget I said anything. I don't want you to delay this project or anything. :lol
When I first saw what you were doing and there was the hole, I figured you'd originally planned to recess the perforated metal. That's why it stood out when I saw the final product was flush. A smaller setback would probably fit in with the smaller size of the beltbuckle as compared to the sides.
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i have to compliment you on your project. very nice indeed. i voted too i went with #1 seems most are agreeing with my vote. i just thing the script matches the lines of the cab better than the block letters.
chris.
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@Yotsuya - Thanks. Happy accident! It actually works much better this way I think.
@jipp: Thanks for the input. Yeah, more consistent with the curves. More personality too I think.
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On to the back of the panel and inlaying the keyboard. I had always wanted a keyboard as part of the final cabinet for PC games designed to be played that way and for the usual administrative functions. I know I could have gone with something wireless (although I'm not sure that technology had been developed when this project started) but I really wanted something completely integrated that felt as though it had been built with the cabinet and not connected to it as a peripheral. I really didn't want the keyboard to feel like a glimpse behind the curtain to the "cabinet as a PC." So I decided to integrate the keyboard into the wood panel beneath a plexi inlay designed to feel like the NavPanel. This would allow me to surround it with more artwork and make the keyboard itself feel like a custom component of the cabinet. Years back I bought an industrial keyboard from Happ and now it was finally time to actually install the thing.
First I cut the recessions for the keyboard body.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157047;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157045;image)
Then I cut the larger inlay recession for the plastic, and then cut the key openings. I used the same technique to inlay the plastic for the keyboard as i did for the navpanel (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg523689#msg523689) The only differences were having to cut recessions for the body of the keyboard out of the panel, and having to cut openings for the keys to protrude through the plastic. So I had one jig to cut the oval plastic shape for the inlay and another jig to cut the key openings.
This is the oval template to cut the inlay for the plastic. First step is to cut a channel with the template.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157043;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157041;image)
And the next step is to remove all the stock up to the channel for the inlay to sit inside.
(http://)
Then on to cutting the plastic for the inlay.
I can't remember the reason I cut the holes for the keys first. I remember that it was important. Ah well…. one of the drawbacks of delayed posting. This was the jig for the main keyboard keys.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157039;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157037;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157031;image)
And this was the jig for the function keys.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157035;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157034;image)
Then it was back to the oval jig to cut the plastic into the shape for the inlay.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157030;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157027;image)
I bevelled the edges of the plastic that will protrude above the wood. Gives it a really glass like feel. I still have to polish and clean them up.
In order to fit the keyboard into the space I allotted, I had to trim off a couple of mounting bolts and cut down the mounting tabs. I used my dremmel with a little cut off wheel which worked perfectly.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157025;image)
I haven't screwed the keyboard in permanently yet, or drilled the hole for the cable. In the final installation the cable won't come out the top of the panel, there'll be a hole in the bottom to thread it through.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157021;image)
Here it is under the plastic. Obviously there will be an artwork overlay to go under the plexi.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157019;image)
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Here's the front/back so far
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157051;image)
and here's the top and side
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157053;image)
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Amazing level of finish on this project! Keep up the good work!! :notworthy: :notworthy:
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HOO LEE ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---!
:notworthy:
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Mad skilz ;)
I love that inset keyboard and the detail.
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I'd just like to say I blame you for my problems. Had you been updating this thread with your work, in particular, all of the jigs you build, (it's possible) I wouldn't have been stupid enough to use my painted control panel to cut my plexi. I would have traced with a pencil around the strange corners and angles, cut myself a nice template, and went on my merry way. But, Nooooooooooooo. You had to be all busy and stuff, without time to work on your project, or update your thread. And who pays the price? Me, that's who.
;)
On a very, very, very serious note. This Project amazes me in so many ways. Your attention to detail is astounding. Your workmanship is unmatched. You're a serious inspiration to craftsmen everywhere, regardless of the project being worked on. I'm glad to see you back and active. Every time I open this thread, it takes my breath away.
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Superb. :applaud:
Any reason the plastic piece is that wide? My guess is some type of information will be in the artwork?
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Thanks for the encouragement all!
Knowing people are still watching really keeps me motivated.
@emphatic- yeah I've toyed with different things to put in that space. For a while ive thought I'd put switches for the different lights and for the fans. The more I think about it, the less I think I'd need any of that tho. So I'll likely have instructions/ shortcuts filling in the blanks.
Next up are the panels I bent for the top and back...
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As always amazing just amazing detail work Pixelhugger. Dangergirl rocks, I was sad when the comic ended. :(
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I really need a bushing for my router. There are so useful.
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Teaser....
The top and back of the cabinet. With the arched panels temporarily installed.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157083;image)
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So on a scale of 1 to 10, how scared are you to stain/oil this thing? I'm guessing you are somewhere around eleventy billion...
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This cabinet is just ridiculous.
Ridiculously amazing looking!
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So on a scale of 1 to 10, how scared are you to stain/oil this thing? I'm guessing you are somewhere around eleventy billion...
Scared "off-the-charts" for sure. Though much less so since reading up on that Sutherland Welles tung oil mpm32 recommended. It's definitely the way to go. At this point it's those curved veneers that have me scared since you can't use the straight oil on them (as there's not much thickness to absorb the oil.) You have to use a varnish (though SW does sell a wiping varnish that "matches" their tung oil.)
I'd be paralyzed with fear to use anything brush or spray on.
@opt :) What's the black bar?
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@opt :) What's the black bar?
Highlight to see.
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A while back someone had asked how I planned on finishing the top and back of the cabinet since there are no straight lines. After a number of years I'm finally able to explain the answer with some actual pictures. From a design standpoint its very important to me that the curves of the cabinet be a structural part of the cabinets shape, and not a facade seen only from the sides. The last thing I wanted was to have the cabinet end in flat panels on the back and top, so the top and back will have curved panels that follow the profile of the cabinet.
There are two curves along the top with a vent in between.. the second of these, at the rear of the cabinet wraps around from the top to the back and ends in an arched opening. An additional curve at the bottom rear of the cabinet extends upward from the floor ending in an opposing arc, so when seen from behind the cabinet has a circular opening that will be used as an access hatch for the monitor and insides.
To make these shapes I built forms much like the one used for the coin door/kick panel arch. To ensure that the resulting pieces would fit the spaces intended for them, I built the skeleton of the forms in place on the cabinet. The "wider at the top than the bottom" nature of the cabinet meant every few inches of each form was a different width. Combining that with the curved shapes would have been more math than I think I could ever learn, so making the forms a near "mould" of the space the panels sit in seemed to be the easiest and most accurate way to build and then trim them.
I printed out arches in the shapes of the curves I wanted to create then made MDF templates from the printouts and cut the arches out of poplar. I screwed them into position on the sides and then attached a couple of plywood panels between them horizontally with epoxy. Once removed the idea is that they create a form exactly the width and shape of the side panels, making it easy to trim the final curved panels to the exact width/shape of the space they occupy by using these forms as a cutting template with the router… (keeping in mind that the width of the cabinet changes from the top to the bottom I was really concerned about gapping and the panels not fitting flush.. they sit between the side panels, not on top since that'll give it a much more finished look.)
I made a bunch of matching arches to build each of the forms.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157094;image)
For each form I screwed (not glued!) an arch on to each inner side of the cabinet. Then I epoxied plywood to the arches and once dry, unscrewed the arches from the sides. I had wax paper in place to avoid any problems with the epoxy squeezing out.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157092;image)
Here is the first form removed from the cabinet but maintaining the toenailed angle of the sides.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157090;image)
After removing the first form I found that, despite my best attempts to avoid it, epoxy had squeezed past the protective wax paper masking between the poplar curve and the cabinet side. As I panicked and hastily checked to ensure no epoxy had stained a visible part of the cabinet's side…imagine my surprise as I discovered the face of Nolan Bushnell staring back at me like so much Face-of-Mother-Theresa-in-a-Cinnamon-Bun.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157096;image)
If you don't believe me read the fine print in the article below. You'll need to ctl+click it to open it full size in a new window. The actual image is viewable much larger than what it defaults to below.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157102;image)
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You have way too much time on your hands yet not enough!!! Great job and beautiful cab, congrats. :applaud:
Still hope you finish it in my lifetime being so close to the end... :lol
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yeah, your work is ok........................
:notworthy: :notworthy: ;D
Hey! we are both busy at our cabs again (although you are the sneaky type who works in the background, then strikes when the time is right).
Your genius is my motivation.
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Can't tell from the emoticon... is that a.... perpetual ojigi?? If so, I am honored to be recognized for "praiseworthy cabinet style." :cheers:
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Syzygy... dead
Atari Inc. (the REAL Atari).... dead
Playnet... dead
uWink... dead
Do I even need to tell you to sand that faceprint off there with the quickness? ;)
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If only it were real. :P
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If only it were real. :P
You mean it was photoshopped?!?!
You made a fake photo and newspaper article?!?!!??
I'm shocked. :o Thoroughly shocked.
(amazing attention to detail on the real stuff :cheers: )
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Awesome wood working,
Scared "off-the-charts" for sure. Though much less so since reading up on that Sutherland Welles tung oil mpm32 recommended
You won't be disappointed. It's a very forgiving finish both in application and touchup should there be any scratches in the future (not that you'll let anyone near it)
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Just wait until one of his kids takes a sharpie to his cabinet... >:D
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Amazing work Pixelhugger, I love what you have done with the keyboard...never would have thought of that! Suburb dude, words fail me.
Love the attention to detail.
No - "lets get this thing finished already" which is why I, and so many - are such avid followers of this thread.
Best thread ever dude.
:cheers:
Edit for... spelling etc.
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Glad to see this project is back! Love the curves, looks great! More, more more!
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Wow nice work!
Can't wait to be jealous of the final version.
:angry:
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Wow nice work!
Can't wait to be jealous of the final version.
..or your grandkids will be.
It is taking a while but it's nice though.
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Is there a reason you decided to have the background perforated metal next to the logo rather than with a gap like the sides?
For the LED lights to shine through. It goes in after the blue T-molding and marbled contact paper.
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@mpm - yeah, it was really the touch up that cinched it. The chances that one of the kids "takes a sharpie to the cabinet" (@ HarumaN >:D) are actually pretty good. The ability to spot sand an re-oil seems like a great insurance policy. There's no chance I'd be up for completely stripping the sides just to fix a scratch. It took FOREVER to sand the radiused edges alone, and that was without any finish on it.
@wilno45 - Thanks! I really appreciate the comments. Especially coming from someone whose project is such a drop dead beautiful piece of wood work. I'm sad about your CP plexi. I really like seeing thru your cab.
@billygoat/trebeck :)
@zakk - welcome back to the slow burn you love to hate. You sick :censored: .
It is taking a while but it's nice though.
@barry…..
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157360;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=157358;image)
@ed…. thats…. errr….. actually, true. The LEDs at least.
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I couldn't care less if it was going to come to my house and spit horny megan fox clones into my bedroom.
It can do that?!
:notworthy:
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I couldn't care less if it was going to come to my house and spit horny megan fox clones into my bedroom.
It can do that?!
:notworthy:
Best quote to date. But whappen to Zakk's posts?? I didn't even get to read that one. :dizzy:
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I haven't looked at this thread for over a year.
I am really happy to see some actual construction has occurred.
It is looking great.
I really love the crazed laughter when you test fit the first dado. It explains a lot! ;D
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8 years, over 1000 replies. Amazing... Just brilliant.
You've inspired me to not do the "basic" cabinet but to think outside the box.
I doubt I could shine a light to your skills, (or funding) but I will certainty take what you've done and try to make something special.
Cant wait to see more pics.
Amazing...
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Well there's a shot in the arm. ;D
I spent the afternoon prepping to bend the last of the arched panels, something I've been putting off for a while as work has gotten insanely busy.
I apologize (to anyone who cares) for the loss of inertia with the updates lately. I shouldn't have posted that arched panel teaser pic, since that took the steam out of the updates leading to it. But for anyone still interested, I'm getting another big update ready to detail all that. Plus I rebuilt the area to the sides of the coin-door/kick panel to give it more dimension. So more on that too.
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I saw a pretty complete shot in Saint's new book - is that a render or are you holding back on us? ;)
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What? me render? ::) Nah - it's all real. I dont think there's anything shown in the book that I haven't already shown in the thread.... Other than the temporary installation of the artwork.
The stuff that remains to be done pretty much comes down to:
Bending lower rear panel on back
Building rear access door
Permanently attaching the drop down keyboard panel
All wiring/lighting
Some kind of hidden or retractable caster solution Hrmmm
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I saw a pretty complete shot in Saint's new book - is that a render or are you holding back on us? ;)
I thought the same thing.
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Well... I haven't posted a full frontal yet, that's true. :angel:
As seen in the book all the wood is still unfinished and the kick panel area is yet to be redesigned. Most of the front is not technically assembled, but rather suspended there by an elaborate system of toothpicks, yarn and tongue depressors... holding just long enough to click a picture before falling apart in a heap. ::) In other words, while all the components in the book picture have been seen before in the thread I haven't posted final pictures of the entire cabinet with them in place since it's not actually complete. Close but not complete. So those who want a sneak peak of the cabinet in a semi finished state should buy Saint's book ASAP. :) Those who don't need a sneak peek should buy Saint's book anyhow to support him and the site! :cheers:
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Saint's new book? Is it a new book or are you talking about the new printing of his current book?
Encryptor
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Saint's new book? Is it a new book or are you talking about the new printing of his current book?
new printing of his current book :)
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So here's the long overdue backstory on the arched panels…
After building the basic form to fill the space the arched panel would sit in, I attached the additional arches I had made to support the center.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=165078;image)
This is the location the form is meant to fill, though the form itself is temporary and this won't be part of the actual cabinet....
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=165080;image)
Next, I screwed a couple sheets of bendable poplar onto them to create a "platten" for the panel to be vacuum pressed against. At this point the entire form assembly shown is still all temporary structures. None of this actually goes on the cabinet.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=165082;image)
With the form complete, I vacuum pressed the curved panel (made of a sandwich of 3 sheets bendable poplar between 2 sheets of wooden cherry veneer.) For detail on this process see the write up on the coin door kick panel here. (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg1098680#msg1098680).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=165084;image)
The glue up/bending of this panel was a bit sketchy as the huge volume of air and space left beneath the form allowed the bag to draw inside right at the seam. The immense vacuum pressure was then held by the glued edge of the bag which shortly split apart. Surprisingly despite the bag failure and huge drop in pressure the glue-up process worked long enough that the veneer cured without puckering. At least on the top of the panel. There was a bump in the glue up on the underside that got trimmed off. Dumb luck.
Once the bending was complete, I cut an arch out of poplar to attach to the inside. I used this to route the arched opening that will allow access into the back of the cabinet. (This panel is forms the top/rear of the cabinet)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=165090;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=165094;image)
Then I finished the arched opening with a piece of walnut (the same solid walnut t moulding I used on the CP edge and on the sides of the coin door kick panel…. you can see it to the right of the panel in the pic above.) This stuff is intended for transitions on hardwood flooring… like a small threshold. It has a really nice radiused face which I'd need a shaper to do on my own. Being that I don't have a shaper, and that they scare me anyways, this is a simple solution. I routed the spline off of the tmoulding so it became a flat piece of trim I could bend and then I clamped the bejeesus out of the walnut so it would follow the arch.
This is the arch flipped over to allow me to clamp the walnut to it's edge.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=165096;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=165098;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=165086;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=165088;image)
There were three arches like this in total. This was the most dramatic of them, for the top rear. So it covers part of the top of the cabinet, then bends around following the shape of the rear of the cabinet to cover the top part of the back. Another arch covers the top front behind the marquee, and another covers the bottom rear. This leaves a large circular area in the cabinet's back which gets filled with a removable curved door/access panel. More pics on that later.
Next update is for the sides of the coin door/kick panel area. After initially finishing this area I wasn't happy with how the perf panel looked. Turns out that combining the layered perf panel with the wood as I did ended up looking more like a speaker panel or a church organ. I decided to rebuild the sides of the kick panel with some left over curved cherry, adding a piece of walnut and aluminum to add a step mimicking the CP drop down front.
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Absolutely beautiful craftsmanship. Can't wait to see a full shot of this thing!
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That is A LOT of clamps. :laugh: Great to see an update. :applaud:
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Woah.
Pixelhugger and Kneivel updates all in one day? :blowup:
Love it when a plan comes together. Lookin' great.
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@purple: Thanks! Full frontal and more coming very very soon. There are some pics in Saint's 2nd edition book, although not of any of the stuff from this update and the next couple.
@emphatic. Yeah, you can never have too many IMO. :afro: The blue Irwin clamps are the only things pressing the trim against the glue. The orange clamps are all there to hold the trim against cauls to keep it from floating away from the edge.
@DFM Thanks! More on the way.
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So here is the update on the kick panel trim redesign….
I had some strips of curved cherry which I decided to add some walnut blocks and aluminum to in a stepped design like the front of the CP.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=165106;image)
First I cut a template to match the cherry's curvature. Then used the router to cut the walnut block to match.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=165110;image)
Next I cut a similar curve from 1/8" aluminum pieces with a jigsaw and sanded/polished the edges and faces.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=165112;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=165114;image)
Here's a before and after of the aluminum edges. I used 320 grit wet/dry sandpaper. Way easier to get an even texture than I had thought.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=165116;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=165140;image)
Here are the finished pieces before trimming to width…..
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=165118;image)
And this is one epoxied to the walnut block…..
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=165120;image)
If nothing else I now have experience for a backup career as a shank maker
Most of this was epoxied together with glue blocks behind the curves.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=165122;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=165124;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=165126;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=165128;image)
After completing the new trim pieces, I needed to attach them to the existing trim on the kick panel. I removed the existing trim and cut a profile into the edge to match the new stepped profile pieces. I cut the same profile into the walnut trim on the cabinet side edge.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=165130;image/img]
[img]http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=165132;image)
Here is the left side trim in position with the existing kick panel edge. It protrudes outward in the same arc as the kickpanel itself, so when fully assembled the entire area below the CP has a distinct barrel front feel, with the walnut blocks and aluminum almost feeling like barrel hoops.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=165134;image)
The new components required a new base plate for the kickpanel which was made using a template traced on MDF from the parts themselves then cut from walnut with the router.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=165136;image)
Here's a crappy phone camera shot from overhead of the new trim in position. You can see how it joins the trim on the kick panel to the left and the heavy walnut "wing panel" walnut trim of the cabinet side on the right. You can also see one of the poplar glue blocks I used at the top and bottom of the new trim to wedge it against the dados/profiles of these heavier pieces the new trim slots into.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=165138;image)
I'll post much better pics of this final assembly next.
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so like what are you making here ???
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so like what are you making here ???
I hope you're kidding...
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so like what are you making here ???
Sorry this update is a bit obscure. I'm rebuilding the portions to the left and right of the coin door/kickpanel. Originally these areas were just flat perforated metal panel, but since that didn't turn out looking as I had hoped, this is a redesign of the area. Should make a bit more sense when I get the front angle pics posted.
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so like what are you making here ???
I hope you're kidding...
I was :burgerking: lol
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Just discovered I don't have space to mount my HAPP P2 button with the ponyboy's leaf switch adapters I'm using.
Apparently Happ makes/made button plungers for the P1/P2 start buttons with different plunger alignments. I need a 2 player button with a switch bracket/plunger aligned vertically like the 1P button seen in the photo below. (I need the bracket to be aligned with the player graphic when the button is installed. Alignment is determined by the plunger on the player graphic)
ARGH.....
Anybody have one to sell/trade? I have some super tasty 3.5" NOS WICO ball top shafts in Red, Orange, Purple, Yellow, or Green
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=165880)
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I've got 1p and 2p white happ buttons that match your "right bracket" picture... the switch brackets run in the same direction as the dude(s) standing on the button. Message me your address and one/both are yours!
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Admittedly I'm not completely awake yet, but couldn't you just pop the 2P button itself out of the 2P housing and put it into another 1P housing?
Endaar
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Endaar- Nope... the housing is actually inconsequential as the moving part of the button is what determines whether or not the dude is vertical or horizontal. The little prongs that align with the housing are what determine the direction the dude will face.
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I've got 1p and 2p white happ buttons that match your "right bracket" picture... the switch brackets run in the same direction as the dude(s) standing on the button. Message me your address and one/both are yours!
You sir, rock.
PM sent.
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On to the back.
As I've mentioned before, the top and back of the cabinet always posed a big design problem for me. Ultimately the vacuum formed panels along the top, and parts of the back solved the problem of the cabinet's curves otherwise becoming a facade hiding a flat top and back, which I definitely wanted to avoid.
I still had to deal with putting a door or access panel on the back of the cabinet, since the permanent installation of the bezel meant the monitor couldn't go in or out through the front.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=168122;image)
I decided to create a panel that followed the contour of the back of the cabinet. I wanted the back to have the same level of finish and detail as the rest of the cabinet, particularly if it is to ever sit away from a wall, where it would be visible. For the surface of the door, I used aluminum perf panel, which has the added benefit of venting the cabinet directly behind and above the monitor.
This perforated panel is bent and held in shape by a 3/16" channel cut into 3/4" walnut sides which give the hatch its structure and add a bit of trim to the back.
It gets bolted into place, since it'll rarely be opened, and since I needed to child proof it against curious little hands, given it leads straight into the neck of the monitor and access to the anode cap… The bolts (and nuts) that hold the door in place are then hidden by a pair of stainless steel rocket logos (waterjet cut by Cornchip) which spin down onto the remaining length of the bolt shafts and recess themselves into the walnut handle across the mid section of the door.
Confused? So was I.
First I used the same template approach I used on most of the cabinet to cut the walnut door sides. That is….
1) Create the shape in a graphics program (Illustrator)
2) Print out at full size
3) Spray mount on MDF
4) Cut the MDF to the final shape
5) Use the MDF as a template to route the actual wood.
Once I had two matching sides, I rounded their edges with the router then screwed them onto a sheet of MDF to hold them in position next to each other (back to back) while I routed the various dados I'd need to brace the door with poplar… ummm…. braces. This allowed me to get the dados in exactly the same location on both sides quickly and accurately. I was really really nervous about keeping the door square… partially because of the fact that, like the rest of the cabinet, it toenails down at an angle (wider at the top than bottom, blah blah blah) and partly because there simply wasn't going to be much structure holding it together. It was going to be like a very large and curvy picture frame, with quite a bit of twisting/flexing torque applied to it by the large sheets of "forced into position" curving perf panel. Anyhow, I tried to keep things as accurate and symmetrical as I could.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=168124;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=168126;image)
With the dados cut, I marked their locations on the poplar braces that would get slotted into them. Hoping to create a sort of multi directional self stabilizing auto aligning locking mechanism structure, I continued the dado along the poplar. There are two of these poplar braces, each in the shape of a T as you can see in the wider shot.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=168128;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=168130;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=168132;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=168134;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=168136;image)
Next I measured the horizontal dimensions for a handle to be cut from walnut to give the center of the hatch some support, and allow for an attachment point (the bolts mentioned above)
I created a template for the handle (as detailed above) and routed it from walnut.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=168138;image)
Front:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=168158;image)
Back:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=168156;image)
Using the same template I had used to cut the door sides, I inset a 3/16" channel along the inner face of each side to allow the perf panel face of the door to be held inside.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=168140;image)
After measuring the length and various widths I needed for the perforated panel, I trimmed it to the appropriate shapes to fit into the angled door. The perf panel wobbles and shakes like crazy when being cut. Sandwiching it down made that a lot easier. Who'da thunk?
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=168142;image)
I tried using epoxy to attach some threaded "weld nuts" on the back of the stainless logos with mixed results. Ultimately one is (so far successfully) attached with epoxy, while the other failed and was reattached using JB Weld… technically an epoxy I guess but apparently much much stronger and better for smooth surfaces than the stuff I was using.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=168150;image)
After measuring the diagonals to check for square, I glued up the door, sandwiching the perf panel in between the sides in the slot I had routed.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=168144;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=168146;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=168148;image)
After the door was glued, I attached a heavy grade vinyl window screen material to the back of the perf panel to prevent the previously mentioned curious fingers from poking a coat hanger through the back and into the monitor neck…..*thinks of Nostrebors avatar pic*
Here are pics of the doors curvature
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=168152;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=168154;image)
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Simply beautiful :applaud:
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Stunning!
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That looks outstanding!
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Outstanding is right! :applaud:
I tried using epoxy to attach some threaded "weld nuts" on the back of the stainless logos with mixed results. Ultimately one is (so far successfully) attached with epoxy, while the other failed and was reattached using JB Weld… technically an epoxy I guess but apparently much much stronger and better for smooth surfaces than the stuff I was using.
I have been thinking of how I should mount my invaders and marquee to stand off the cabinet. I was leaning toward JB Welding some all-thread to the backs of them but this seems to work great. I will be following your example when I get to that point in my project. :)
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If you're talking metal to metal, I found some solder in the plumbing section at lowes. It comes in a syringe tube and is Solder and flux together.
You use a torch to solder it, but I've found that (at least for copper-copper and copper-brass) it's a very solid joint when done right.
But JBWeld rocks too. Be sure to scuff up the areas being joined first, if they're really smooth.
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Yeah, the nice thing about the weld nuts for attachment is that you have a large surface area around the base. I love the story on the JB Weld packaging about the farmer who glued a cracked engine block back together.
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I sure hope that cab is going in the middle of the room, preferably with a spotlight on it. It'd be a shame to back it up against a wall!
:applaud:
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If I had my way it would be on a rotating turntable with a fog machine behind it.O
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If I had my way it would be on a rotating turntable with a fog machine behind it.O
Uh-oh, hes getting creative ideas again :applaud:
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Good God! :notworthy:
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Dude, you dodged a bullet with the end of the world not coming on May 21, 2011, but 2012 is coming up quick...
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So, how do you stay in love with a project this long? If I don't finish quickly, I tend to loose interest and it doesn't get done. I need to have the level of commitment you have.
Since I first saw the pixelhugger thread I've:
Designed and built a MAME cabinet which is a turd by comparison
Raised a son for a few years
Had a second son and raised him to the age of two
Changed jobs twice
Started and Architectural Consulting firm.
You can't keep something this good from the world; unless you happen to be raising kids too, in which case it will be eighteen years before you can finish it.
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Good to see you back in the thread Mark. Crazy timing, tho'.. I thought for sure I'd be the one to bump the thread tonight. Just you wait.....
You ain't seen nothin' yet. :cheers:
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Uffffffffff i love!!!! :notworthy:
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Oh, now I can't wait for the update.
What would it take to convince you to do a video on finish.
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Just wait. This one's been in the works for a looong time now. Although, your posts are eerily timed... more Jungian collective subconscious crap? :o :o :o
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I thought for sure I'd be the one to bump the thread tonight.
And by tonight of course I mean tomorrow night.
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Lmao . . . I know how that goes.
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I thought for sure I'd be the one to bump the thread tonight.
And by tonight of course I mean tomorrow night.
Or maybe the night after tomorrow night? ;)
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I am gobsmacked at the amount of work you have put into this, it's inspiring!
Amazing job!
:notworthy:
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Not sure how I missed your last update with the curved screen material, but that looks fan f'ing tastic! Looking forward to the update... hope those start buttons work out for ya!
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Not sure how I missed your last update with the curved screen material, but that looks fan f'ing tastic! Looking forward to the update... hope those start buttons work out for ya!
Thanks again for those! They work great! Update imminent. Been slaving on it for days. >:D
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Pixel, it looks like you almost have everything finished... what's left?
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Pixel, it looks like you almost have everything finished... what's left?
Now that the space shuttle program has been mothballed, he's retrofitting it with some booster rockets salvaged from NASA.
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Heh... just some media related technical slow downs. Had a hard drive go down that I was relying on as a scratch disk. Got a work around, but it's delayed the update until tonight/tomorrow. :angry:
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Heh... just some media related technical slow downs. Had a hard drive go down that I was relying on as a scratch disk. Got a work around, but it's delayed the update until tonight/tomorrow. :angry:
You're teasing me... let's see the pron. ;)
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Wait for it... Wait for it.... ;)
Be patient... it's 8 minutes of awesome.
Mission Control Final Countdown to DONE! (http://www.vimeo.com/27934836)
Link fixed!
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In the USA:
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In the USA:
DENIED!!!
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NOT AVAILABLE!
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So, how do you stay in love with a project this long?
To be totally honest, I could never have kept the motivation without these forums. Not even close. There were so many times when it almost got shelved only to get somebody's random feedback to spur my lazy a&& back into the garage.
And then there were times when I mentioned an update and felt obligated to follow through (not get flamed)... so yeah, this thread made all the difference.
Thanks for everyone's participation, it's really what's kept me going.
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In the USA:
Uh oh. I guess its the music track that's generating that content restriction. ARGH! Anyone know of somewhere I can post and embed without that??
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In the USA:
Uh oh. I guess its the music track that's generating that content restriction. ARGH! Anyone know of somewhere I can post and embed without that??
Try registering at vimeo.com and upload it there, or remove the music and upload it to YouTube again.
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Thanks Emphatic... trying that now. If not I guess there's Facebook.
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Waiting on encoding through Vimeo. Hopefully I'll have a new link in 30 min.....
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What a tease!!! :angry: :angry: :angry:
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Fixed. Thanks Emphatic!
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:dizzy: :applaud:
That is how its done. Bravo man. This cab is in a class by itself. That reveal vid was hilarious and awesome! :notworthy:
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Fixed. Thanks Emphatic!
Wooot! I made it to the final credits! :cheers: How does it feel now that it's done?
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A build this badass deserves its own music video! Excellent, excellent work!
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Fixed. Thanks Emphatic!
Wooot! I made it to the final credits! :cheers: How does it feel now that it's done?
Awesome job!!!! I'm in the credits too! We need a BYOACMDB!!!!
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Thanks for the feedback!
The video was as much fun to do as the project itself! I'm glad you guys like it. :)
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Fixed. Thanks Emphatic!
Wooot! I made it to the final credits! :cheers: How does it feel now that it's done?
Y'know... it the middle of the build I thought it'd be anticlimatic to finish, and that actually playing it would be a huge letdown.
The opposite has turned out to be the case. My son has just reached an age when he can actually appreciate the games (yes the 7 year old son who was born AFTER the thread started).
Anyhow, his enthusiasm makes it all worth while. It's so much fun to play Mario Bros. like I remember it.. this time with my kids!
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Awesome awesome awesome. I can't believe it WAS worth the wait! So when do we get a video of you demoing the thing? :cheers:
P.S. the video is hilarious.
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Finally! It's DONE! :cheers:
What makes me mad about these kinds of projects is that I can barely do a control panel. I'm hoping my DIY CNC machine will fix that to some degree. Damn you all for being so damn good, I'd be happy to be 10% as good as some of you. ;)
P.S.: it's weird to see my name in the credits. I just searched the whole thread so that I could remember what I said.
PS/2: a replacement for the AT-style keyboard connector.
PS3: a game console from Sony.
P.S.4: Final Countdown rocks!
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Congratulations!! your project has been/is a great inspiration to me, it combines arcade fun and spirit with true art and craftsmanship.
AWESOME, DUDE.
:cheers:
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Great video!
And a fantastic build! :notworthy:
It's definitely worthy of being handed down through the generations. That's a surefire way to keep classic gaming alive!
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A perpetual Ojigi right back at you Ond...
it combines arcade fun and spirit :cheers:
I got thinking after finishing the video that people were going to clown me for such an off topic tangent and waste of time, but then I thought.... were all here for fun and nostalgia anyway, so I figured I'd post it as it is and let it be.
Glad people are having fun!
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Thanks Dr. V
It's definitely worthy of being handed down through the generations.
I love that your project feels like it already has been! ;)
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I feel like I did when I finished the last book in the Harry Potter series... Now that it's over, what's left to look forward to??
Well worth the wait, but the anticipation was half the fun!
Great video! :D
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That was great. I only pop on here now and then and have checked your thread for progress. To see it completed but with the video details it made it feel more than just a cab being built. :applaud:
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I feel like I did when I finished the last book in the Harry Potter series... Now that it's over, what's left to look forward to??
As a big Potter fan myself that's an enormous compliment.
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Dude, that is really fabulous work. From concept, to all the tangential fun stuff you created on the way, to the detailed (though often only annual) build updates with pics and video, to this finale...the whole project rocks!
Your project was one of the first ones I read completely through in early 2009 when I started my build (now merely 2.5 yrs old. Thank you for setting a new standard for how long is too long to complete a build!!!) . Your creativity and attention to detail resonated with the way I like to do things and I have followed along with great interest. Enjoy the fruit of your substantial labor and thanks for giving us all a glimpse of arcade heaven.
t3
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*grinning like an idiot checking the thread while wife is driving down the freeway wondering why*
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Great, Just Great, the machine, the woodworking, and the video, thank you!
Taz
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Congratulations on a job well done. :applaud:
I don't know that I've ever had the stick-to-itness to undertake a project that lasted this long.
This thread has also kept me interested in the hobby so many years later. When you get some time I'd love to see a video of your frontend in action and some final shots of the the whole cabinet.
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The cabinet looks awesome. the video was great. It was funny but somehow also choked me up toward the end.
great job
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When you get some time I'd love to see a video of your frontend in action and some final shots of the the whole cabinet.
I had hoped to get the FE in the video but some text alignment issues were driving me nuts and so I left it out. The video was originally planned to be a comprehensive detailed breakdown of the cab, but that proved impossible... I just don't have the photography skills to make what I wanted it to be... you were never supposed to see my family room or walls. So the detail of the cabinet will have to be still photos. I was super happy with how the Final Countdown portion of the video, and the thank you/credit section turned out... but much less so with the montage section detailing the cabinet itself.
If there's interest down the road, I may try to reshoot the cabinet in a (even more) self indulgent montage to focus better on some of the details and angles. :afro: By the time my poorly shot footage is compressed and resized the project looses something. :-\
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somehow also choked me up toward the end.
My wife cried. But then that was probably from embarrassment when she realized it was posted for the whole internet to see.
It is funny you'd say that though. I had originally cut a much longer section about my grandpa at the end to dedicate the project to him. But it felt like it took the video off in a completely different overly personal direction.
It was tough to do tho... he was such a tinkerer and genius. It was sad for me to loose him before he could have seen all this completed. His philosophy on life was that we live on through our children and grandchildren and I missed not being able to show him what he had encouraged in me...
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The Epic Fail Cabinet Guy could stand to take some lessons from you. Excellent job!
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Amazing. The cabinet.
As for the video, if that's your real hair, I am -so- jealous. :)
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Not only a totally originally cabinet but now an off the hook video. Way too cool. :cheers:
Glad to hear you are enjoying playing the finished product. Thanks for sharing your build with us.
It was funny but somehow also choked me up toward the end.
Me too. I lost my father a year ago this week. That shot of the tools at the very end reminded me of his shop.
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if that's your real hair, I am -so- jealous. :)
Sadly the hair, like the pixelated spandex, is an enhancement.
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Just awesome Mitch, Congrats! It came out just as amazing as I knew it would.
What's next? :)
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A great video and a truly fitting tribute to a fantastic build. :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
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Wow! I can't believe it's done! Great Video. Honestly, I would love to see stills and a video of the FE working etc... Don't even worry about fancy editing or titles, I just want to be able to see what it's like if I was standing there about to drop a token in to play a game.
Great Inspiration in this thread. Are you going to go forward with the coffee table "making of" book idea?
P.S. That was nice of you to put in the shout-outs!
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I lost my father a year ago this week. That shot of the tools at the very end reminded me of his shop.
Man, I'm really sorry. I do believe, like I said earlier, that the people responsible for who and what we are continue on in what they've contributed to what we become. Doesn't really make it easier but I think it helps put at least some sense into it.
Thanks for sharing that.
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It came out just as amazing as I knew it would.
As always thanks for the vote of confidence Dave. I always knew (hoped) I'd finish at some point. It was at times both motivating and demoralizing when people lost confidence in that, so I always appreciated it when people like you would point to the demands of kids and real life to put things in perspective.
What's next? :)
I dunno. Maybe another kid?
I've been tempted by what Ben Heck has done portable-izing consoles and would love to do a wood and metal version of a 2600. Especially now that LCD's have gotten so good.
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MOAR shots of the finished cab!!!! :drool
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P.S. That was nice of you to put in the shout-outs!
Thanks but... are you kidding!? :) The video itself is solely for the people who have followed this thread. Thats the only reason for making it. That and to loose any respect I had from coworkers at my job. Everyone who contributed (for better or worse) deserves credit for pushing my slow a&*$%! forward...
Honestly, I would love to see stills and a video of the FE working etc... Don't even worry about fancy editing or titles, I just want to be able to see what it's like if I was standing there about to drop a token in to play a game.
Great Inspiration in this thread. Are you going to go forward with the coffee table "making of" book idea?
I guess that's what the website will come down to. The coffee table book and "one-off-commemorative-magazine-a-la-when-some-British-royal-gets-married "idea of sheer self indulgence has reduced itself to.. well... pretty much the same exact thing only in browsable PDF form on a website. Page turn effects and all. :laugh2:
I had really wanted to learn Flash and get the website up to coincide with the unveiling video, but it was becoming clear that would delay me by months at best. So to answer Santoro, that's really what's next.
And to address jfunk about not having a project to follow over the years or something to check in on, I've always wanted the website to pick up that responsibility. :afro: Much like the EGM magazines I'd check for at Safeway after school. To that point, and now that there's no more construction, planning and tweaking to obsess over, I'm hoping to post skins and marquee/cp art there on a hopefully regular basis. Something to give people a reason to lurk or browse. I lost many many hours ogling Zappers Robotron 3000 site and others like it back in the day, and I think that's left me with a permanent interest in developing something that does the same for others. That's why peoples comments that they've enjoyed following the thread, or in the case of jfunks that "the anticipation was half the fun" mean so much to me. That's exactly what I've wanted to give back because that's exactly what I've taken from so many other projects here over the years.
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MOAR
Excellent!
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I guess that's what the website will come down to. The coffee table book and "one-off-commemorative-magazine-a-la-when-some-British-royal-gets-married "idea of sheer self indulgence has reduced itself to.. well... pretty much the same exact thing only in browsable PDF form on a website. Page turn effects and all. :laugh2:
Does that mean that The Franklin Mint will be selling commerative plates that can only go up in value*? Sign me up!
*Note: Not all plates rise in value.
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Out of this world!! :applaud: This thread has it all, discussions, emotions. Ever since i found BYOAC this topic has been alive. Its like BYOAC Forum was made just for this build :)
I especially like that so many people from pixelhugger got involved. For most its a one man show to build and this forum to help.
I you will enjoy Mission Control as much as i did reading this thread.
Best Thread ever! :applaud:
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Good job bro.
:applaud:
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Awesome! Was cool to see my name in the credits there...
Incredible work, and the video is just the icing on the cake. Makes me want to undertake some kind of epic build! :cheers:
End of the video kinda choked me up, too. Reminded me of my granddad out in his garage...
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Wow...just...WOW!
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Look at the size of that thing! That's no moon...it's a space station.
Incredible job. I knew it was big but I guess I'd never noticed how substantial it was until the video.
Video was a trip. I can just see your family off camera aiming the fan at you.
Now that it is done, I felt obligated to go back and see when I first commented on the thread since I made it into the credits (2005). Thanks for that.
Just a beautiful build. Congratulations.
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Hmm, I don't think I really like the completed project. Can you tear it down, and make it, you know, happier? ;D
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Dude,
I don't know you, but you're awesome. And the cab is gorgeous. And the video was amazing. And I hope you continue to have a good time with it all!
Nice.
:woot
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Part of me wants to ask if it will fit in my basement, but the rest of me is totally horrified.
Global financial meltdown. Check.
Rioting in the streets. Check.
Xiaou2 (or CheffoJeffo) not being banned. Check.
PH completing MissionControl. Check.
The four horsemen are queued up and ready to roll.
Press Start to Proceed.
:scared
PS -- Awesome -- how does she play ?
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Amazing work and a great video to show it off!
:applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
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The four horsemen are queued up and ready to roll.
I guess I wasn't the only one expecting my house to be swallowed up by the earth last night.
Now that the prototype is finally finished, when does it start rolling off the assembly line?
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Hmm, I don't think I really like the completed project. Can you tear it down, and make it, you know, happier? ;D
In my defense Zakk, you haven't seen the kittens playing the piano in the frontend yet.
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you forgot me in the credits. I look forward to the final countdown video version 2.0
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What the ?!!?
Really? Aw crap
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Stunning workmanship my man, you're an inspiration to many :applaud:
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This thread was the first thread I looked at when I first joined these boards over a year ago, I had to go through the whole thing. Since I am a noob I couldnt contribute to anything but man, seeing this complete is amazing!! The video was glorious, I love that song haha! The craftsmanship is absolutely superb! :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
Makes my cab look like dogshit. :cry: ;D :cheers:
Congratulations on a job well done!!! :w00t
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Nice job! You have to start a vert one now! :cheers:
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I bet the whole community feels the relief you feel right now; those long, intense labor pains suddenly gone; seeming so distant with that beautiful baby staring you right in the face; gleaming with newness, promising your renewal ...and just begging you to play another round of Robotron, or Defender, or Joust, or....
Congrats, Pixel! I'm jealous of your workmanship and awed by your perseverance. Bravo! :applaud:
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P.S.: it's weird to see my name in the credits. I just searched the whole thread so that I could remember what I said.
Yeah, finding stuff in here can be a needle in a haystack...
Design #1 makes me think about Day of the Tentacle, probably because of the font and the "cartoonish" look of the overall design due to that font.
Design #2 makes me think about a more serious theme, probably not NASA-category but at least not cartoonish. The rocket and the motion curve would need to be redone/enhanced because they block the title too much. Not enough contrast or something, sorry if I'm so vague but visual design isn't a strong point of mine.
and then
To me it looks like those "cut here" lines.
Talking about those lines however, the spacing between the dashes at the bottom of the trackball needs to be corrected IMO. Sorry if it has already been mentionned but this is like the longest thread ever. :o
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those long, intense labor pains suddenly gone; seeming so distant with that beautiful baby staring you right in the face; gleaming with newness, promising your renewal
You forgot "keeping you up all night" :cheers:
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you forgot me in the credits. I look forward to the final countdown video version 2.0
Oh, you were kidding. DOH!
Going through 41 pages to check, at least I found YVAN. :dizzy:
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Look at the size of that thing!... I knew it was big but I guess I'd never noticed how substantial it was until the video.
That makes two of us. Once we got it inside I realized I had waaay underestimated it's size and footprint. There was literally only 1 place in the house it could fit and even then it has to be pushed flush against the wall in the corner, hiding one side and the back. I had always thought I'd angle it 45º in the corner, but it'd stick out so far it'd cover half the french doors. :banghead:
Ah, well. There's always a remodel.
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Look at the size of that thing!... I knew it was big but I guess I'd never noticed how substantial it was until the video.
That makes two of us. Once we got it inside I realized I had waaay underestimated it's size and footprint. There was literally only 1 place in the house it could fit and even then it has to be pushed flush against the wall in the corner, hiding one side and the back. I had always thought I'd angle it 45º in the corner, but it'd stick out so far it'd cover half the french doors. :banghead:
Ah, well. There's always a remodel.
There's really only one solution to your problem: You need to move! ;D This thing NEEDS to be displayed in the middle of a room (like a basement game room or something) so you can see it from all sides. :cheers:
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I joined BYOAC back in 2007. I've quietly followed this thread since then. I've never had anything to add (nothing that would've been of value, anyway) ... In this case, I was quite content to sit under the tree and simply watch it grow.
Sometimes, certain actions in life take on a meaning, a purpose larger than themselves. This is going to sound cheesy, but I know I'm not the only one around here for whom this is one of those moments. Like the poster who mentioned how he felt at the end of the Harry Potter series, there's a certain breath of ... well, uncertainty now. The beautiful thing about this (and Pixel, you essentially said it yourself,) is that this is not an end, but a new beginning.
I am sure your family (past, present, and maybe even future) is very, very proud of you.
Congratulations! Enjoy it!
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I was quite content to sit under the tree and simply watch it grow.
...and about as fast. ;)
Thanks for speaking up! It's funny, because you never know who is listening or how far your posts reach. I've always thought the huge number of views of this thread is due to the same handful of people repeatedly checking for progress, but I guess there are those who (like I did for years) watch anonymously from the side.
I am sure your family (past, present, and maybe even future) is very, very proud of you.
Well I did get three emails from my mom this morning. Although they were all the the message. :-\ ::)
Thanks Ryori very nice thoughts.
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Wow this is awesome to see complete. Great work and attention to detail.
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Workmanship, workmanship, workmanship! I have been fabricating things from wood and metal and concrete since I could walk, have worked with many an artisan along the way, been a part of building incredible things... and I stand in awe of your workmanship.
Congratulations Pixel on a job well done. Your gramps would be very proud.
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By the way, that cabinet I started before yours all those years ago... it's still not finished. So don't worry when life gets in your way. It happens to all of us.
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Workmanship, workmanship, workmanship! I have been fabricating things from wood and metal and concrete since I could walk, have worked with many an artisan along the way, been a part of building incredible things... and I stand in awe of your workmanship.
Congratulations Pixel on a job well done. Your gramps would be very proud.
Thanks man, I really appreciate that. :cheers: :cheers:
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By the way, that cabinet I started before yours all those years ago... it's still not finished. So don't worry when life gets in your way. It happens to all of us.
:)
Although you had the good sense not to start hyping it before that point. :embarassed:
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Great job man.
On both the cab and the video!
:applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
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you forgot me in the credits. I look forward to the final countdown video version 2.0
Oh, you were kidding. DOH!
Going through 41 pages to check, at least I found YVAN. :dizzy:
I voted for version 1 ;)
srsly though, what the hell did Chad help with? Is that what caused the 8 year delay?
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God DAAAAAAAAAAAMMN!!!
That video was just about the funniest thing I've ever seen!!!!!!! :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2:
oh and the cab's not bad either!!!!! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
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God DAAAAAAAAAAAMMN!!!
That video was just about the funniest thing I've ever seen!!!!!!! :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2:
oh and the cab's not bad either!!!!! :cheers: :cheers: :cheers:
...makes the video project worth the 3 x 3am nights! I'm still a bit sleep deprived from it. :dizzy:
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It's been ages since I've posted anything, but I have to come back to say CONGRATS on completing this build! It's been really cool to watch this progress over the years, and I'm glad to have seen it come out as amazing as expected. The plasma/water jet cut pieces still blow me away.
Awesome build! Hopefully you get more playtime and enjoyment out of the cab, then the amount of time it took to build it :)
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Thanks for coming out of hibernation to post!
It's awesome to hear from people that've followed the thread from way back.
Since people drop in and out activity on the site as they complete their projects I was a little bummed thinking people who watched it in its formative stages would never see it done. It's a blast to see that's not the case.
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Count me in as another hibernator coming in from the cold to say--it was worth the wait and that video was awesome!!!
When you finish a big project, you really really go for the big finish!
Its funny too, cause after doing a project like that, the people that most appreciate it--are all right here...so thanks for sharing!
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Italy loves you !
Are you an alien ? ::)
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Holy ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---! Is it really done?!?!? :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
Congrats Pixel, its stunning. Truly a work of art, and better than I think any of us could expect. That said, we're really running out of long time jokes now.... Duke Nukem Forever is a real thing... .and Mission Control is done.
What do we do now? :)
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That video is amazing. I watched it twice more today (avoiding work).
Each time I spot something new.
Just picked up on the part where you hit left and right to get past the nag screen. :laugh2:
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Wow...simply amazing. I remember when you started this thread...I never knew the outgrowth would be so awesome. It's saying that 8 years is worth the wait!
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WOAH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Honestly your craftsmanship and attention to detail on this thing is absolutely legendary. I'm honored to have been able to donate a few buttons to the cause, and even more honored that you took the time to thank me in the video. I just showed my wife and she wanted me to tell you how awesome it was too (although she may have been talking about the pixelated pants shots... not entirely sure).
I freakin LOVE the footprint on this thing. I'm a big fan of massive cabs and Mission Control's size and profile just demands attention. Hopefully at some point you will go into more detail about getting your marquee shaped like that... I'm designing a cab right now that uses a lot of octagonal shapes and I have been flirting with the idea of a octagon-shaped bent marquee but thought it might look like crap. Your cab has completely changed my mind! Anyway don't want to stray off topic but I just wanted to say that you should be incredibly proud of this thing. It's obvious that it was a true labor of love, and like others I actually got a bit choked up towards the end (don't tell anyone). Great job!
Oh yeah, what's next on the project list? Hahaha
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Hopefully at some point you will go into more detail about getting your marquee shaped like that... I'm designing a cab right now that uses a lot of octagonal shapes and I have been flirting with the idea of a octagon-shaped bent marquee but thought it might look like crap.
Not sure if you've seen the write up on the bending which starts one this page of the thread. (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg274772#msg274772)
Bending was pretty easy. Building the jig to ensure symetrical angles was the more time consuming part. Blow torches are the cheapest way, but if you need two faces to join flush, you'll need a strip heater (one more shout out to Nostrebor ;) )
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Its funny too, cause after doing a project like that, the people that most appreciate it--are all right here...so thanks for sharing!
;D
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Just picked up on the part where you hit left and right to get past the nag screen. :laugh2:
I was hoping that wasn't too obscure. Glad somebody caught it!
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@technomane: Molte grazie!
@pointdablame: Thanks! I think it snowballed into more than I had expected as well.
PS My 3 year old saw your avatar and got a big mischievous smile and said "Who's THAT??"
@boinkxp: :) Thanks for hanging in all these years!
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Awesome, awesome, AWESOME!!! If anyone can come even HALF WAY to the quality, and HEART, that you have put into this gift to your Family, then they have come close to perfection.
Thank you so much for letting us be a part of your work, for giving us the opportunity to give our thoughts, and a huge thank you (you didn't have to do it!) for putting all of us into your credits! I kicked myself for changing my username to "Rick" rather than "RWElphinstone" when I saw your credits roll, as this is the only site I've EVER done it on, but it's a testament to what how personal this site really is to most of us. (I'll just have to be extra convincing when I show this to my friends. "Yeah, yeah! That's me riiiiiigggghhhhtttt THERE!" LOL.)
Seriously, Sir. Thank you. Your work is amazing.
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That was the coolest presentation I've seen done. Great work you are truly an inspiration for the rest of us.
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That was the coolest presentation I've seen done. Great work you are truly an inspiration for the rest of us.
I agree. I'm going to have to open the actual gates of Hell, to even come close.
;D
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The video was pure genius. Can we get some still shots of the finished cab? And when are you starting on the matching cocktail cabinet?
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Great job man! The only down side is that now we need a new project to track like this. It might be 8 years for start to finish, but it was really worth it.
I will start the bidding off at $10 dollars ;)
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Phenomenal. I started reading this thread when you decided it would be a good idea to polish concrete in your garage? Long time ago, but very well done. Finished product and vid are superb. :cheers:
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Beautiful! :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
Congratulations of finally getting it done and with such amazing quality and attention to detail.
I bet your other half is glad this "little" project is over... ;)
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No words left......
:applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
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nice..very nice :cheers:
godlike presentation.
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To make the link easier to find, I put a copy of it on the first page.
:cheers:
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....wait...wait....
Hmmmmm..... what about Mission Control...... bedspread and sheet set....
.....matching pajamas.....
...pillowcases.....
.....electric toothbrush maybe........
Hey Pixel! Don't forget these fancy accessories! >:D
Also, dibs on the toothbrush prototype. ;D
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What's better than a master designer/builder? A master designer/builder with an awesome sense of humor!
It's hard to compare a 3 day video shoot & edit to a decade long cab build, but they both kick ass!
:notworthy:
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Pixel, YOU are the reason I am in this hobby. Your work leaves me with a feeling of awesome I can't describe.
The 2012 BYOAC Token MUST include this cab in the design somehow. Cripes the BYOAC FORUM needs to include this game in its benchmarks.
As far as standards go, this is as good as it gets. All others may strive, none will match.
p.s. Thanks for including me in the credits. I feel somewhat validated now ;)
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The video was hilarious, but I'm really looking forward to some stills highlighting the completed cabinet from every possible angle, and I'm DEFINITELY interested in the FE as well.
I honestly never thought I'd see the day that this project was finished. Now that I have. :applaud: BRAVO.
Incredible workmanship. Incredible detail. Incredible 80's hair. What more could you ask for?
You're an inspiration. I eagerly await any future competition, but I don't think we'll see anything of this magnitude for a long time, if ever. Incredible job.
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Hey Pixel! Don't forget these fancy accessories! >:D
Also, dibs on the toothbrush prototype. ;D
HAH! I had forgotten about those. Gimme another 8 years for the toothbrush.
I'm really looking forward to some stills highlighting the completed cabinet from every possible angle, and I'm DEFINITELY interested in the FE as well.
Couple people have asked for that, so I'll get stills started tonight. Still have to work out alignment kinks in the FE before another video. :angel:
The 2012 BYOAC Token MUST include this cab in the design somehow.
Ah the days when an annual token run was a foregone conclusion. :'( As far as the design goes... I already accidentally included it in the dragon artwork for Saint's PAII cabinet. :P
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=171310;image)
What's better than a master designer/builder?
Maybe a builder who acutally finishes within the same calendar year he starts? But I definitely appreciate the compliment!!
@ Rick, GibsonRiddler, Benevolance, Pinball Wizard, drawfull, BlasterMaster, wilno45, Donkey_Kong, smalltownguy, nipsmg:
Thanks guys. The last few years have been a watershed of great inpiration from "new" builders here. I think it really started ramping up for me with Franco's machining work. And Mountain. Now we've got people like Ond doing similar industrial fabrications... only without the actual industrial machines.
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Now that I am unflabbergasted, I can finally post.
Thanks for the mention in the credits of your video. What a cool cabinet! The bar is set folks!
*edit for spelling*
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OMG, I finally feel like getting back into the swing of things and the first thread I view is this one. I am glad I did.
:notworthy: Pixel that cab is a long time coming and worth every bit.
Kaytrim.
p.s. thanks for the mention in the credits, you must have gone through this thread from start to finish to get all those names.
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Wow and wow....... I had to take a triple take to make sure I was reading it right. Its Done...... Of course I had to flip back sevaral pages to catch up where I left off, but man that video was crazy funny. LOL
Thanks for the mention in the credits. All I ever did was flip you crap and call you slow. LOL. I guess all that patience paid off in the end because that is amazing.
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Oh, Holy S!
:notworthy:
That's just too awesome! Can't even find the words to try and compliment you on the finalized MCP. It's just beyond incredible!
And yeah, thanks for the amazing reveal video too! You've really set the bar high on future cab reveals.. :)
Thanks!
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Awesome just awesome.
The only thing sadder than seeing it done is the fact that I've been around here since the first post. ;) Where has my life gone - lol
Did you end up using the Sutherland Wells tung oil? It was hard to see in the kick --I'm attempting to get by the auto-censor and should be beaten after I re-read the rules-- vid.
Can we have some still pics? ;D
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Yes 4 coats of their med. lustre polymerized tung oil for the everything but the curved panels, which they recommmended finishing with their tung oil wiping varnish.
The tung oil is ridiculously easy to use. And the result was exactly the hand rubbed soft glow I had hoped for. Thanks again for pointing me to Sutherland Welles. Great company. The individual who takes your call knows the product and can offer great advice...it felt like a family company. It's definitely more expensive, but worth it, I did get a lot more coverage than I had expected but it's still probably about 50% more expensive than a typical polyurethane.
You were right about touch up and refinishing. Since I had applied it long before finishing the curved panels, rear door and front of the CP, the sides had gotten pretty banged up after the finishing from being in the garage and from test fitting panels. I just had to random orbit sand with 220 to remove gouges and rub some more oil on and you can't tell. It's exactly what I need with the kids around. I'll gladly sacrifice a little bit of scratch resistance from not using poly for the flexibility of rubbing in a little more oil if I ever need to spot sand. It's awesome stuff.
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Ah the days when an annual token run was a foregone conclusion. :'(
Tokens are back on - see the stickies in the main forum. You have less than a week dude, hurry up! :)
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Tokens are back on - see the stickies in the main forum. You have less than a week dude, hurry up! :)
YIKES!
And now I have something to use them on!!
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Here are some final still photos. Apologies in advance for anyone looking at this on a small screen. These images are big. Open them in new window or download them to see full size (about 400% larger than the preview here I think)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=171362;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=171366;image)
The small logos on the back spin off to reveal nuts attaching the rear door to the cabinet. The top and bottom arches are removable so the door can be lifted off exposing the monitor and related innards.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=171368;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=171370;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=171372;image)
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Can't express in words how amazing this project is....well I guess I just did.
Can't stop chuckling first seeing the cabinet on stage in the video. I had to do a double take and rewind.
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Here are some final still photos.
I just had a soft nut...
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Wow Pixel. Unbelievable. Every inch of that thing screams perfection. :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
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(http://pictures.mastermarf.com/blog/2010/100501-beautiful.jpg)
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That things gorgeous!!!!!
Love the video too! Great editing on it.
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Nice, the finish came out perfect. So glad you didn't go with the poly.
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work of art. still shots :cheers:
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Congratulations! I think it's the most amazing cabinet I have ever seen. I'm in awe :dizzy:
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awesome!! the video was sooo good, but the still pics... wow!! :applaud: :applaud:
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First, that's an amazing cabinet. Thank you for sharing with us.
Second the video is great, a fitting way to complete the cab thank you again!
Finally, that's solid wood you used...holy crap how heavy is that thing?
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I feel some kind of peace.
I loved the video. Having no idea what you looked like, nor what the band look like, I was fooled until it became really obvious.
I may try to write a piece for this. There's a great community at Gamers With Jobs .com One of the hosts has also built a MAME cab, and a virtual pinball table. You need to interview with them.
Once upon a time I broke my leg, got bored, went on the internet, found BYOAC and started a MAME cab. Shortly after that I discovered the Mission Control Thread. I don't know who started first, but we've both grown older, had kids, raised kids, etc since then. ...though I finished before my kids were old enough to play. They do like to play on it now though.
....I digress.
brilliant. You have to get a dedicated link. Your own hall of fame for this.
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I vote 2011's BYOAC token has at least one side to commemorate Mission Control's completion.
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NOW WITH A FRUSTRATING TIME WASTING CONTEST!!
Details coming soon.
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Thanks for coming out of hibernation to post!
It's awesome to hear from people that've followed the thread from way back.
Since people drop in and out activity on the site as they complete their projects I was a little bummed thinking people who watched it in its formative stages would never see it done. It's a blast to see that's not the case.
Word gets out even if you don't read BYOAC any more, man. I expect you'll have old names popping back up every once in a while for a long time when they see you've finally finished. Congrats!
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Looks Awesome! congratulations. So is that really nearly 8 Years since this thread began..... :dizzy:
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Congrats on striving for, and achieving perfection! Such an amazing amount of detail went into this machine, it is mind boggling...! And thanks for documenting every step in such a detailed fashion.
I have no idea how you were able to stick with it for so long, without compromising your vision...!
Thanks for making the rest of us "normal" cab builders look like schmucks... :lol
As someone mentioned previously - cocktail version? Would be pretty schweet to have it in your edit bay for entertaining clients while you are rendering... You are still an inferno/smoke artist/editor right?
Cheers to a project that goes way beyond "well done!" :cheers:
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Would be pretty schweet to have it in your edit bay for entertaining clients while you are rendering... You are still an inferno/smoke artist/editor right?
Yep, hence the compositing in the video. ;)
As far as the cocktail goes... years ago I went to a demo at Discreet's Santa Monica office (back when it was Discreet... before Autodesk) and they actually had a MAME cabinet one of the engineers had made. I wish mine would fit in the bay! No time/patience for a cocktail build at this point, unfortunately :P BTW, Drum.... noticed ILM is hiring at their Canadian studio in Vancouver. (https://www.lucasfilm.apply2jobs.com/ProfExt/index.cfm?fuseaction=mExternal.showJob&RID=3531&CurrentPage=1) Just sayin.
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Can't stop chuckling first seeing the cabinet on stage in the video. I had to do a double take and rewind.
I'm glad that wasn't lost. It was the funnestestest part of tweaking the footage.
Finally, that's solid wood you used...holy crap how heavy is that thing?
It's easily moveable with two people and a dolly. And I can push it around on the (wood) floor if I can brace myself against something.
I pretty bad at estimating weight, but I'd guess 500-600 lbs.
@Mark70 I'll have to check out that site. Always looking for a good podcast for the commute!
So is that really nearly 8 Years since this thread began..... :dizzy:
In 3 months!
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Haha funny; I was at that Discreet office on Main St. as well for a Flame class way back when, but didn't see their cab; can't recall what year that was...
Thanks for the ILM tip, but I am more on the design side of post rather than VFX. And knock on wood, been gainfully employed as a "permalancer" for the past 15 yrs at a TV network here in beautiful downtown Burbank ;)
I plan on bringing my Moon Patrol cocktail into my office once they move us next year to a new location.
Thanks for the mention in the video!
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Thought you were in Canada! You on Flame? Or was that someone else?
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Mostly AE & C4D... I learned Flame and we have 8 Infernos but I never liked the Discreet software. Been using AE since the early 90's so I know it like the back of my hand.
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I was at that Discreet office on Main St. as well for a Flame class way back when, but didn't see their cab
Yeah, the Main St. office in Venice. It was at the bottom of the stairs.
Ah, my bad... it was Billy_Goatfeet that was the canadian Flame artist. If you count 1UP makes four of us in post production... small(ish) world.
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WoW!!!
Your craftmanship is amazing.
This thread should be granted STICKY status
whats your next project?
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Video is just like everything else in this thread, OVER THE TOP!
Love the schwing! made me laugh out loud.
Congratulations!
Hey, I seen I made the credits! way cool!
Awesome job, it's the best custom cab build I have EVER seen!
I'm kind of disappointed that you finished so quickly though, it sets a new standard of efficiency.
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Hey Pixel,
I'm a big fan of 3dArcade and I think you were going to stick with that FE if I recall since it's so extensible. Did you finish the integration of the custom skin to the cab? I would love to see a video of that in action, especially how you manage the 'selector' buttons across the top etc. Any more content coming along these lines?
Just a straight up Iphone video would do...It doesn't have to be a 3d animated flash application with built in holographic experience mode... but at this point, I wouldn't be surprised if you went that route. :D
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Hey Pixel,
I'm a big fan of 3dArcade and I think you were going to stick with that FE if I recall since it's so extensible. Did you finish the integration of the custom skin to the cab? I would love to see a video of that in action, especially how you manage the 'selector' buttons across the top etc. Any more content coming along these lines?
Yeah, more coming on that. It's not the easiest software to configure, mostly because it is so extensible and configurable. I've been waffling between two skin designs. One is meant to look like an old issue of EGM from the 80's, the other which is currently running, is meant to look like an extension of the cabinet design, so the button look matches the navpanel buttons, the borders match the bezel etc.
So far I've managed to get a custom gamelist created with (mostly) the proper 3D cabinets associated with the right titles and a reskinning of the default 3D arcade, remapping the wall textures with art from the marquee, the floors with a space station like rubber tile texture, and the ceiling with stars. Not quite the custom arcade I had hoped to build, but it's a start.
I'm still ham fisting my way through the various list setups and wrapping my head around that. Once I get it running I'll take a 3D steroscopic video for you to play back on your holodeck!
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Thats one Amazing Cab !!!!
Im just about to start building my first cab with my lad and yours has given me ALOT of inspiration ...
THANKYOU (from a noob)
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I gotta say that my son's reaction to it has made the whole effort worth it.
:)
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Uffffffffff :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
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outstanding !!! one of the best !! :applaud:
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Had to pop in and say congrats, that is one beautiful machine. :cheers:
Got me seriously thinking about doing another wood cabinet now..hmm
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I'm popping in as well! I can't believe it, I never thought I would see the finished result :cheers: That video was effin' hilarious! Serious dedication and unbelievable craftsmanship!
It was nice of you to thank everyone on here, and glad that everyone was able to keep you motivated to finish - even if there was a lot of :laugh2: about it not getting done! But you did it. So cool that your kids can play this now, and be able to see the entire history of the project and how much work you put into it.
Now, I just hope I will get the time and $$ to get my project off the ground :angry:
I picked some things I thought were funny in the thread from the years past:
Jan. 9, 2004
"Man, oh man, do I ever want to see the final incarnation."
"You and me both! Hopefully it won't be long. Construction begins on Jan 28th" (2004)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg115647#msg115647)
Oh, the beginning..
April 21, 2004
"Then there's work, the remodel at home, and the new baby coming in June. AAAAARGH. Never enough time!" (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg146812#msg146812)
I still say it was your other "side" projects slowed you down - books, videos, wait.. was there really a Mission Control movie script?
April 12, 2005
"There seems to be some misconception that the project is currently on hold. That has never been further from the truth." (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg306824#msg306824)
Hold, slowed, delayed, whatever - it's done!
March 3, 2006
"Would anyone else be interested in a commemortative abridged hard copy of this ridiculously self serving thread?" (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg523481#msg523481)
Did this happen btw?? :) If I wasn't worried about wasting paper, I'd print one of these myself.. perhaps a pdf?!
Nov. 11, 2006
"Well for what it's worth, I am still so addicted to the project that I'm currently checking this thread from a hotel lobby in Central America." (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg593175#msg593175)
Dedication.. love it.
March 5, 2007
"It's crunch time now since we're hoping to have another baby this year or early next, before which point the project has to be completely finished." (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg638284#msg638284)
...only slightly off the mark.
April 18, 2008
I plan on pulling out all the stops for the unveiling. Just. You. Wait. Evil Again, if following the thread itself is boring you, don't bother. You'll know it's close when you see the HD trailer on the front page. (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg827040#msg827040)
Predicting the future.. love it!
October 25, 2009
"Three years later I'm still inching forward on the original project and am already thinking the next project may not be a cab at all after seeing Ben Heck's hand held 2600 and ColecoVision projects." (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg1028774#msg1028774)
Any word on the "next project"? :)
Mar. 18, 2010
"I've lived so long with the images in my 3D app and the renders in Photoshop, it's surreal to see the actual thing looming up in front of me." (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg1070202#msg1070202)
And just think, it was only 1 1/2 years later, it was done!
Thanks for the enjoyment of following this thread through the years.. it was so great to see it finished!
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Awesome post. Just awesome. :cheers:
March 5, 2007
"It's crunch time now since we're hoping to have another baby this year or early next, before which point the project has to be completely finished."
:laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2:
Little did I know at the time that turned out to be 2 babies simultaneously, and the project was only chronolocially about 1/2 done.
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Little did I know at the time that turned out to be 2 babies simultaneously, and the project was only chronolocially about 1/2 done.
I can't tell you how disappointed we all were, hearing that your project would be delayed yet again.
;)
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March 3, 2006
"Would anyone else be interested in a commemortative abridged hard copy of this ridiculously self serving thread?" (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg523481#msg523481)
Did this happen btw?? :) If I wasn't worried about wasting paper, I'd print one of these myself.. perhaps a pdf?!
I came to my senses, so it's morphed into the project website... I found a great Flash component that will let me build a large part of the project gallery and construction journal as a browesable magazine, so I plan on making it a hypothetical copy of an old 80's issue of EGM. Definitely not the most practical format for a website, but hopefully appropriate.... :blah:
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oh, two more things...
1.) Damn you for getting "Final Countdown" stuck in my head! :)
2.)
August 30, 2011
Yeah, more coming on that. It's not the easiest software to configure, mostly because it is so extensible and configurable. I've been waffling between two skin designs. (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg1211451#msg1211451)
Wait.. so you are saying you are NOT done?!!?!?!? :dizzy:
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oh, two more things...
1.) Damn you for getting "Final Countdown" stuck in my head! :)
2.)
August 30, 2011
Yeah, more coming on that. It's not the easiest software to configure, mostly because it is so extensible and configurable. I've been waffling between two skin designs. (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=13118.msg1211451#msg1211451)
Wait.. so you are saying you are NOT done?!!?!?!? :dizzy:
Are they ever? ::)
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absolutely the greatest project in the history of this hobby. Beautiful in every way. Congratulations!
Is there a #2 in the works? A slimline model? A bartop? A cocktail?
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Thanks VRF!
I've been thinking off and on about a cocktail and about a portable/handheld console hack. Not sure what the next project will be.
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I wanna change my vote. I like the new Mission Control better. Christ that thing is a sexy beast.
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Wait for it... Wait for it.... ;)
Be patient... it's 8 minutes of awesome.
Mission Control Final Countdown to DONE! (http://www.vimeo.com/27934836)
Link fixed!
this is comming from a guy whos hair was bigger and badder than his girlfriends in the 80's........the video and cabinet are totally awsome!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
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Thanks guys! Always fun to get a bump. And now the video's link is bumped as well. Sweet.
I showed the video during movie night with some other families and now one of my daughter's friends actually thinks I was actually famous in the 80's. Later I repurposed the outfit for Halloween. Everyone under 20 thought I was supposed to be a woman. I was all... "WHAT?!?! NO! I'm an 80's rocker, you know like... Hagar, Roth, Bret Michaels..... anyone???" Made me feel real old real fast. :-[
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Thanks guys! Always fun to get a bump. And now the video's link is bumped as well. Sweet.
I showed the video during movie night with some other families and now one of my daughter's friends thinks I was actually famous in the 80's.
I repurposed the outfit for Halloween. Everyone under 20 thought I was supposed to be a woman. I was all... "WHAT?!?! NO! I'm an 80's rocker, you know like... Hagar, Roth, Bret Michaels..... anyone???" Made me feel real old real fast. :-[
Dude looks like a lady!
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Just caught this thread again.... and so it's finally finished!!! I remember seeing this thread when I first joined this forum and thinking "wow! that's gonna be cool" but I still thought it would be done in a few months. Gotta say it's absolutely stunning. :applaud: You must be very proud. And after all that do the kiddies like playing on it? Or have they grown up now and think those games are crap? :lol
The video is brilliant and very well edited. Another skill you have there. It took me a few seconds to realise that all the names were peeps who posted in the thread over the years. :P
Dare I ask... what's next in the pipeline? :dizzy:
(I would lose the nag screens in Mame though ;))
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And after all that do the kiddies like playing on it? Or have they grown up now and think those games are crap?
One of the benefits of taking 8 years to build it was that the completion timed out perfectly with my oldest son getting to an age where he can play/enjoy the games. Of course it helps that we dont have a Wii, Playstation or Xbox to compare. :P
As far as whats next, I've been interested in a cocktail. I recently found sites for DIY multitouch tables like the Surface. That seems like it would be a really cool project, not so much for gaming but for photos, internet access, interactive lava lamps etc... :dizzy:
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Do you have some good links for the DIY multitouch?
I was really impressed watching Settlers of Cataan played on a Microsoft Surface at PAX. I think a multi-touch table would be excellent for digital incarnations of certain board games. The only part I disliked was that the 'cards' were part of the surface, which required good gamemanship from your opponents not to simply look at your hand.
And if you played it right...you could install a tablet in the kitchen and some restaurant software on the multitouch table. Then whenever you need a beer or a snack, you simply place the order from the couch and your wife brings it out. It's a genius idea that has no flaws!
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Great stuff Pixel! Eight wonderful years! I recall taking a look at the concept renders thinking "this is going to be something to watch". Man I wasn't disappointed.
[Insert lots of awesome comments about craftmanship, vision, detailing, graphic design, woodworking, sprockets and lastercutters, curved wood, curved lexan, frontend here but have already been said by countless people]
Above all, a huge accomplishment to continue with this much dedication to bring this project to completion without making sacrifices to your vision. Well done and thanks for keeping us humble BYOACers inspired :-)
and: yay! I'm mentioned in the video!
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I return after a prolonged absence to find that you've finally finished your cabinet. And, man, is it absolutely gorgeous! I love the newer version. You, sir, have created the best looking MAME cabinet I have ever seen. Kudos.
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we don't have a Wii, Playstation or Xbox to compare
:)
I know that exactly, my daughter's in about the same stage, and we don't have any consoles either.
But, she seems to have an appreciation for the classics now, so it's all good.
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@ Felsir and ToddH - Great to see old faces dropping in! What a long strange trip it's been. You still vectorizing Felsir?
drV- Yeah, it's huge fun to see the kids clearing levels and learning tricks I did when I was a kid. The other day my son was playing Mario Bros. with my daughter when she had to go finish some chore or other. Rather than lose their accomplishment of getting to "the fly level" together he showed her where to position her character at the lower edge of screen where the turtles/crabs/flies never go so he could keep playing without her losing her lives. I never knew that trick, it was like watching some other kid at an arcade and picking up tricks. Silly but fun.
My son is going crazy to play New Super Mario Bros on Wii and I should really just cave and buy one. Been toying with setting up Dolphin on Mission Control, but my core duo can't play it any faster than 30% speed. Need to upgrade to an i7...
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My son is going crazy to play New Super Mario Bros on Wii and I should really just cave and buy one. Been toying with setting up Dolphin on Mission Control, but my core duo can't play it any faster than 30% speed. Need to upgrade to an i7...
Just retire Mission Control and build a new cabinet! :cheers:
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I just popped in for a moment and decided to check the thread for old times sake.... DUDE! Congratulations! Such a labor of love. A true testament to the BYOAC spirit! You sir should get an award.... like a lifetime achievement Mamey or something!
It must be such a relief to finally have the machine done. Now, how much time do you spend playing on it? :) I miss talking with you man. Great times!
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Just retire Mission Control and build a new cabinet! :cheers:
Like the space shuttle... So now I just need to get SpaceX to contract it's replacement!
@AD- hey man! Long time!! I play on it probably every other day. The kids play more than that... As much as we let them. Actually using it has been one of the bigger surprises, as I thought it'd mostly be a conversation piece/nostalgia shrine. For me it helps that I got Donkey Kong II and there's no continue game, so playing feels like it did way back when.
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Wow what an Awesome project...you make me feel like such a lazy bastard for using duck tape to hold my control panel in place.
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It takes 8 years less to attach your CP that way.
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Been toying with setting up Dolphin on Mission Control, but my core duo can't play it any faster than 30% speed. Need to upgrade to an i7...
:)
And you just +thought+ you were finished!
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Just retire Mission Control and build a new cabinet! :cheers:
Like the space shuttle... So now I just need to get SpaceX to contract it's replacement!
Just make sure you don't get a contract with the Russian Space Agency. :dizzy:
Awesome job! :applaud:
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Hey pixel I just dropped in and it's finally finished!!!!! Who won the pool on how long it would take to finish. I had 4yrs 2 mos :laugh2: Your workmanship and attention to the tiniest detail is what kept coming back again and again and again. Seriously awesome work.
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@ Felsir and ToddH - Great to see old faces dropping in! What a long strange trip it's been. You still vectorizing Felsir?
Hey Pixel, yeah, I still do some vectorizing projects once in a while (I worked on a few cardgames via www.thegamecrafter.com (http://www.thegamecrafter.com)). Sadly most of my hobbies got sidetracked due to my wife's illness last year :( but she's feeling better every day so I'm picking up my old hobbies again. I will probably be around BYOAC more often as I plan to build a new arcade cab this summer (yay!) Got a few ideas sketched out I'll start my own "project announcement" post soonish.
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Pixel....THIS ROCKS...seriously it turned out fantastic...was just checking on status and almost lost it when it said PROJECT COMPLETE...the video was fantastic great job and funny as hell but a nice tribute to the website, its crazy residents and of course your labour of love the last 8 years.
Man did it turn out nice...how about an update on your playtime with it since finishing? PLease tell me you have at least had some fun to just relax and enjoy the cab?
Again, CONGRATS!!! :cheers:
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PLease tell me you have at least had some fun to just relax and enjoy the cab?
That's been the biggest surprise. We (at least between my son and I) play it most days. I've installed the LEGO Star Wars and Indiana Jones games and my son has gone nuts on those (we don't have any consoles so this is the only way he gets his fix) I play DK II quite a bit. The rest of the kids like the original Mario Bros. game since it has coop play.
All in all it gets used far more than I thought it would.
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Is the video available on Youtube? Vimeo is god awful sometimes, I have a very fast connection and it took about five minutes to load the first minute of video.
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Is the video available on Youtube? Vimeo is god awful sometimes, I have a very fast connection and it took about five minutes to load the first minute of video.
Hrm... Well, I had tried YouTube first but it got denied. Either because it failed the automated copyright check due to the Final Countdown track or because YouTube decided the world wasn't ready for it's awesomeness. Either way, my hands are kind of tied unless there is another free streaming service someone can recommend that's better than Vimeo and isn't concerned with how awesome the music is.
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No worries. I guess I'll just let it buffer for a while in the background til it's ready. Getting anxious to see the video, the cabinet looks awesome :)
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Wow, grats Pix :applaud:
Was doing my usual check in to BYOAC and of course check on Mission Control progress..... :o
I think I must had read the title 5X before I clicked on it.......complete?........nah it cant be.......
I might be a little late for the party but heck whats a couple months in 8 years ;)
Congrats man, and as if it wasn't stated enough already, great work!!!! :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
mj147
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Just watched the video again. Brilliant stuff! And your attention to detail means there's stuff I see in video I didn't notice before. Like the overlay of the date Nov. 8th 2003 over the original Final Countdown video. The date this thread started. Did anyone else pick up on that? Gratz again on such a momentous and cool project. :applaud:
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Brilliant video and awesome finish! :cheers:
8 Years...time flies. You deserve some solid playtime on that cab.
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Cant believe you finally finished it. So amazing the final product glad to see you can finally enjoy it. Gives me inspiration to finish my project that has gone on way to long. Congrats Pixelhugger, I know I am late to the party it was really fun to follow this from beginning to end.
Thanks!
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So we've been using tokens with the kids as a reward for good behavior. They start the week out with a handful and loose them one at a time if they misbehave.
We just got back from a road trip and the older kids had been particularly difficult in the car. I started the arcade to play Mario Bros. with my youngest son when my oldest daughter came up wanting to play Donkey Kong Jr. I told her she had lost all her tokens and wouldn't be able to play. She just looked at me and said, "That's OK. Whenever that happens I just do this..." and started sweeping the coin returns with her fingers looking for stray tokens. She fished out a surprisingly large haul from our 2004 nickel collection, leaving a bunch scattered on the floor. I was hit with such a blast of nostalgia for all the times I tried the same thing in an arcade after running out of quarters I just sat back and watched her restock. The floor looked a little like how Mel Fisher descirbed finding the Atocha.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182516)
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"That's OK. Whenever that happens I just do this..." and started sweeping the coin returns with her fingers looking for stray tokens.
Awesome :laugh:
I used to do the same thing at arcades.
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Talk about bringing the arcade experience home. That's really cool. :cheers:
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How is the
acrylic lexan polycarbonate on the CP holding up?
(edited)
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Originally I had used Lexan/polycarbonate but rebuilt it with acrylic (several years before project completion :dizzy:) when I realized I couldn't polish the trackball bevel in Lexan with sandpaper or Novus polish and after completely botching an attempt to flame polish it.
So it's acrylic. And it's held up perfectly. I am glad I put the dustwashers under the plastic and CPO. Not only did this allow me to polish more shiny bullnosed holes, but its prevented dulling and scratching around the joysticks. :)
The haze you see in the picture is probably a combination of kids' sticky pancake syrup hands, light glare, and bad camera compression/noise. The plastic has stayed pristine. :afro:
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Thanks! I hadn't noticed a haze in the picture.
I thought you had used polycarb which scratches easier IIRC.
I was considering shiny black polycarb for my own build, am afraid it wouldn't look good for long.
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Props to rooter!
This project has always been driven by my nostalgia.
Ten years back when I was starting my project I started looking for any relics of actual arcades I had gone to. Sadly they are so long gone there's barely a reference to any of them online. I found a guy who had a token collection that included a Chuck E. Cheese token from the location I went to as a kid. (This was back when it was called Pizza Time Theater, and had a dark almost bar like vibe to it… not the day care center it has since become.) There were only a few of the franchises around and Nolan Bushnell (Atari's founder) was still in charge of the project. The tokens used to have the location minted on them, Concord CA in this case, with the year on the back. I desperately tried to get the guy to sell it but since he was a hardcore collector I had no luck.
Fast forward 10 years. After finishing my project I was trolling around another BYOAC members project site Rooter's Shooter (http://shaunroot.net/arcade/?p=234) and found a picture of a similar token. In a desperate email I asked him what I could pay, trade or give in exchange for it. Rooter said he'd try to find it and send it my way. After real life, vacations and the like delayed hearing back, again I asked what I could pay to sweeten the deal. No word.
Couple days after Christmas the token shows up in my mail box. Ecstatic I email Rooter and ask what I can send him. Maybe money to help with his pin build and DMD. Thread here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,118908.msg1259354.html#msg1259354) Again he turns it down and simply says he's glad he could make someone's day.
That's an understatement. As nostalgic as I am, it' surreal to hold a token from a childhood arcade 25 years gone. The first real arcade I went to, the place that introduced the concept to me. I still remember the excited discussion in my 6th grade class when it opened and the plans made to go with friends. It's date of 1981 means it was in the arcade when I was. Maybe in the pocket of my grey Toughskins, however unlikely. Maybe in the super inconvenient front pocket on my equally grey Member's Only jacket. Or the pocket on my velour OP polo.
So once again this project has introduced me to some random generous person on the interwebs and reaffirmed my faith in total strangers. More than the fact that Rooter was willing to send it unconditionally, I'm dumbfounded that when he could easily have held me over a barrel to ransom the coin away, he didn't. And when I was insisting to pay him something for it he wouldn't take it. Knowing how desperately we all seek project funds for the endless parts lists this just amazes me.
So to pay it forward, a free pair of NOS WICO microswitch joysticks to the first person to post "Rooter rocks" in this thread. :)
Here's the token in it's place on my marquee, in homage to the protocol used when waiting in line for a game.
I'm trying to figure out how to wire a touch sensitive switch to my iPac so I can use it to actually insert credits. Running a wire to it is no problem, it's the circuit and voltages that baffle me.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=274570;image)
The location in the Willows Shopping center, Concord CA. The entire shopping center was magical to me for the the mere presence of the arcade.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=274568;image)
The date on the back. Places it squarely in my world at the height of my interest in videogames.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=274572;image)
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What a great story to read :applaud:
Great to see that there are still people out there willing to help each other out freely :notworthy:
So yeah "Rooter definitely Rocks! " but your offer goes to the next person saying this after me ;)
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Rooter rocks
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And so does Pixelhugger.
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Rooter rocks
DING DING DING
That didn't take long. ;)
Check your PM
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Great story Pixel :-)
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Cool story, PH.
Rooter is exhibit one when proving that the spirit of Christmas is alive and well. :cheers:
I'm trying to figure out how to wire a touch sensitive switch to my iPac so I can use it to actually insert credits. Running a wire to it is no problem, it's the circuit and voltages that baffle me.
Is a PCB mount or SMT microswitch (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/CK-Components/KSC441V2-SP-Delta-LFS/?qs=sGAEpiMZZMtFyPk3yBMYYAmzYZYJu%2fNimFm54ij7Hf0%3d) out of the question here?
(http://www.mouser.com/images/ckcomponents/images/ksc4ve_b.jpg)
I figure that you can make a wood 1-position rack similar to Happ's plastic 8-position "The Competitor" rack.
(http://na.suzohapp.com/images/20/26106500_colorsm.jpg)
The switch can be hidden behind a layer of wood so that pressing the token causes the rack to compress some foam weatherstripping (gray) and press the microswitch.
Scott
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This project has always been driven by my nostalgia.I found a guy who had a token collection that included a Chuck E. Cheese token from the location I went to as a kid. (This was back when it was called Pizza Time Theater, and had a dark almost bar like vibe to it… not the day care center it has since become.)
This is how I remember it being when I went to one as a kid. It was certainly not like it is today.
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I guess the business model had to change after the crash. Their market certainly shifted from teens to kiddies.
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Found an even thinner switch option -- TL3315NF100Q (http://www.mouser.com/ProductDetail/E-Switch/TL3315NF100Q/?qs=%2fha2pyFaduji%2fLWRV9Pcph8sSH5sCq%252bxtBbn3Oz5X6e5Rg65t7gQuQ%3d%3d).
(http://www.mouser.com/images/e-switch/images/TL3315%20single.jpg)
~4.5 mm square
.55 mm thick
100+-30 gram switch.
.2 mm travel
1,000,000 cycle life
Scott
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Found an even thinner switch option --
I think PixelHugger is thinking more along these lines:
http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/touch-switch-ic (http://www.hobbytronics.co.uk/touch-switch-ic)
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In Pizza We Trust.
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Hey Pixel,
just wondering, I recall you mention creating a coffeetable book filled with your sketches, renders and advertisements. Did you ever get around creating that one? I browsed this thread but I couldn't find it?
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When I last visited this board (years ago ::) ) I was expecting to return years later and still see PixelHugger working on this thing.
Yet... he finished it. And it's shockingly beautiful :dizzy:
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This thread is the gift that keeps on giving for me. I love these unexpected bumps which send me back through the posts and updates like an old journal. Never expected the project itself would become more nostalgic than the nostalgia that created it. ;D
Does anybody know why the vimeo thumbnail doesn't work anymore? The link to the video functions but the thumbnail shows an error.... :dunno
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This thread is the gift that keeps on giving for me. I love these unexpected bumps which send me back through the posts and updates like an old journal. Never expected the project itself would become more nostalgic than the nostalgia that created it. ;D
Does anybody know why the vimeo thumbnail doesn't work anymore? The link to the video functions but the thumbnail shows an error.... :dunno
it just reminds me how I joked you didnt thank me, then you read through the whole thread and I felt like a dick because I was kidding.
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Does anybody know why the vimeo thumbnail doesn't work anymore? The link to the video functions but the thumbnail shows an error.... :dunno
They keep changing the links all the time. I just googled for Pixelhugger Mission Control and found a youtube link somewhere... at first I thought it only to be a Europe music vid ;D
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I just watched the reveal video and this man deserves an award for the video alone! :notworthy:
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Man, this is still such an inspirational project. Oh and I back Felsir , what happened to the coffee table book?
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I can't think of a single superlative that hasn't already been said...the cabinet is amazing and the video is hilarious, both a satisfying conclusion to the thread, which is epic by itself.
For me, the most impressive part is that you actually had the patience to not only finish the cab but to keep the quality of work so high throughout. I give you credit for not slacking off at some point and compromising your vision simply to finish the project. Unbelievable.
Must be quite satisfying to play with your kids. I've got a few years to go for that still.
Endaar
P.S. Nice touch mentioning all of us lowly posters in the video. :D
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P.S. Nice touch mentioning all of us lowly posters in the video. :D
I think my favourite part is the fact that I think he posted the video a week after I changed my name from one of my cooler avatars, to "Rick". Damn. Could be anyone.
;)
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P.S. Nice touch mentioning all of us lowly posters in the video. :D
The people following this thread were the biggest reason I was able to complete the project. Had I built this in isolation I would never have gotten past the glue up. Thread updates were the only thing that forced me to pick back up every time after stalling out.
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and despite never posting in the thread prior to completion, I'd check it at least once a week.
This is still one of my fave cabs.
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Breathtaking thread :dizzy:
What a great journey and masterpiece :notworthy:
Are you and the kids still using the cabinet?
Very nice to see and FEEL the vibe about building and playing the cabinet.
New plans on the way :cheers:
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Are you and the kids still using the cabinet?
Very nice to see and FEEL the vibe about building and playing the cabinet.
They've played it every day. Every. Single. Day. Well, until my wife recently put the smack down and told them weekends only. :dunno We don't have an Xbox, Playstation or Wii, so it's their only videogame portal beside our phones. So far my sons have logged over 140 hours on Lego Marvel Superheros alone. That doesn't include the time on Lego Pirates, Lego Star Wars, Lego Harry Potter, Lego Indiana Jones, Lego Batman, Minecraft etc.... I should have built it out of bricks.
My daughters like the old school games... Gauntlet, Pang, and Frogger. Not sure how many hours they've logged on those. The key to keeping it active has been the fact they don't have something connected to the TV.
Thanks for the compliments!
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First time I saw this (yeah I'm a noob), fantastic craftsmanship, I am very impressed!
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Are you and the kids still using the cabinet?
Very nice to see and FEEL the vibe about building and playing the cabinet.
They've played it every day. Every. Single. Day. Well, until my wife recently put the smack down and told them weekends only. :dunno We don't have an Xbox, Playstation or Wii, so it's their only videogame portal beside our phones. So far my sons have logged over 140 hours on Lego Marvel Superheros alone. That doesn't include the time on Lego Pirates, Lego Star Wars, Lego Harry Potter, Lego Indiana Jones, Lego Batman, Minecraft etc.... I should have built it out of bricks.
My daughters like the old school games... Gauntlet, Pang, and Frogger. Not sure how many hours they've logged on those. The key to keeping it active has been the fact they don't have something connected to the TV.
Thanks for the compliments!
I'm very jealous about the cabinet is used in these days.
Just what you say, if you don't have a console at home, this is the big thing, and show that you don't need it at all ...
They don't miss a thing when you got plenty of quality time with your fantastic build.
And it's worth the money this way :cheers: better then after this progress of building and spending money, they never play on it :banghead:
:applaud:
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So I got the bright idea to start reading this thread sometime in the afternoon...it's now 11:15 and I just finished.
I love the opportunity to go through threads like this with time compressed (10 hours or whatever beats 8 years!). Thank you, ph, for documenting this build so acutely: it's so easy to lose track of time while vicariously experiencing the project's timeline.
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Special Limited Time Offer for the Discerning BYOAC Collector of Other Peoples Unused Project Junk!!!
The smoldering husk of my early-prototype-learning-curve-control-panel-project is available for trade.
Cleaning out the workshop/garage, Ive been throwing away my Mission Control construction templates (at least the ones that I can’t store for future reminiscing.) But what to do with my first control panel and intro to the hobby?? :dunno
This comes from the paper bezel and marble contact paper era of BYOAC, circa 2000, so I felt like it was breaking ground at the time - being made from hardwood and polished plexi. Not very impressive by today’s standards but a big deal for me back then. It was my first attempt at Building My Own Arcade Controls and was a bit of a proof of concept, that I could actually build something. Unfortunately that shows.
This was not built to the same standard or finish as Mission Control. (Ill post pics of the drill blow-out on the underside of the particle board panel for example, and the freehanded control inlays *shudders*) The plexi top has holes for carriage bolts, a relic of the old trackball mounting method I started with - combined with a totally unnecessary attempt to hold the plexi in place.
And no, this is not the CP from the cabinet itself.
The visible woodwork is marginal. It used to be stained but I long ago sanded that out. There are some deviations in the thickness of the wood as a result of the random orbit sand-a-palooza it underwent. It includes the original CPO artwork I designed while still learning Illustrator and Photoshop, so again it shows its age (like 15 years or so) so the paper may be a little puckered or wavy beneath the plastic. It also includes the updated CPO I had printed when getting closer to the actual cabinet design. Um. If I can find it.
There are two holes rudely drilled through the bottom panel that I had used to hang the panel on my office wall when it was not on my desk.
Does NOT INCLUDE any controls, joysticks, buttons etc. Just the wood, particle board, t-molding, plexi and hinge. So the attached pics are how it USED TO LOOK, or might look once reassembled and stained. :P
Is my unused crap worth anything to anyone? A trade for an iPac2? iPac4? Anything? Anyone?
... Bueller?
Available for local pickup (Los Angeles area) or I could ship it if someone wants to pay for that - no idea what it would cost.
This is what it looked like back in the day. If anyone is interested in a trade, I’ll post pics of it as is now, no controls or stain, with the scratches that come from storage in the garage.
And no comments on the classy "seamless background" ::) It was one of my first digital pictures.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=355191)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=355193)
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Oh man that video is epic! Lolololol well done mate. The cab is sensational too!
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Thanks man!
Heh. Sorry to bump my ancient thread. Didn't stop to think this would expose anyone who missed the journey the first time to the rabbit hole! It just seemed to make more sense to post my offer in the context of the thread where I wouldn't have to explain myself quite as much. :afro:
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You were right to bump this great cab. #MakeBYOACgreatagain
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I had forgotten how much fun it was to participate in this forum. It's a bizarre feeling to find the project I built for nostalgia has taken on a nostalgia all its own for me. Just rewatched the video and realized how much fun I was having without realizing it.
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Oh, also this happened.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=355195)
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It belongs in a museum! :soapbox:
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Seeing as there's a trend for honouring old builds - i gotta say Mission Control is my favourite build ever. Tell me that puppy is still running!
:notworthy:
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It runs just fine, or did when I saw it last year. Good to see Pixelhugger on this forum again. There must be a whole bunch of people here now that are unaware of this mighty project. Timely bump really...... ;)
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Hey Ond! :cheers: Couldn't resist posting that photo. I gotta say I miss having stuff to post here.
@Mark: thanks for the kind words! Still up and running. Every. Single. Day. I have a boxed backup WellsGardner in the garage to ensure it stays that way for my kids children. If you are ever near Los Angeles come check it out. Just be careful with the ticket agent or it will be the most expensive game you ever play, just ask Ond. [/endinsidejoke] BTW I love the minimalism of both Cube and Blip. You nailed it on both.
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Pixelhugger, YOU should come out to ZapCon this year, since your next door in LA. You'd be the guest of honor!
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If you are ever near Los Angeles come check it out. Just be careful with the ticket agent or it will be the most expensive game you ever play, just ask Ond. [/endinsidejoke]
Heh heh, just the swings and roundabouts of life my good man, I've spent more on far less worthy things!
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If you are ever near Los Angeles come check it out. Just be careful with the ticket agent or it will be the most expensive game you ever play, just ask Ond. [/endinsidejoke]
Heh heh, just the swings and roundabouts of life my good man, I've spent more on far less worthy things!
Ond, your coming to ZC last year was one of the most epic things I've ever seen, just because you made the trek. Hope to see you again one day, my brother!
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If you are ever near Los Angeles come check it out. Just be careful with the ticket agent or it will be the most expensive game you ever play, just ask Ond. [/endinsidejoke]
Heh heh, just the swings and roundabouts of life my good man, I've spent more on far less worthy things!
Ond, your coming to ZC last year was one of the most epic things I've ever seen, just because you made the trek. Hope to see you again one day, my brother!
Thanks mate, I enjoyed my time with you guys very much. I will return to your neck of the woods, just can't make ZapCon this year, I have an interstate 50th birthday of a good friend to attend and money is a bit tight. PH may be persuaded to attend, but you'll have to add him to your dream list first though! When I return we'll have some beers. :cheers:
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lol, just opened my Galaxian cocktail to look at replacing the grinder that used to be a fan, searched the web, found old threads on the BYOAC by too well known people, and had to look back and see what became of Pixelhugger. looks like all is well in the land of BYOAC. so much time spent watching this thread, and on the forum.
good to see the cab still kickin as it should be.
now to find this video that i may have never seen...
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What the!? Never saw the video??
Here it is then:
https://vimeo.com/27934836
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https://vimeo.com/27934836
As it is, my ten year old's favourite song right now is "The Final Countdown". I'm on my way to pick him up from school, and I'm showing him your vid. He's gonna love it. (OMG! My name is in the credits! Thank you sir, for being one of the inspirations for doing what we do here!)
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Was driving the other day and heard "The Final Countdown" on the radio and was immediately brought back to this project.
What a great project. Cannot believe it's been nearly 20 years now. WOW
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:dizzy:
20 years?? Damn
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greatest music video of all time..this arcade version here :lol
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Was driving the other day and heard "The Final Countdown" on the radio and was immediately brought back to this project.
Thanks for posting this. The passage of time is crazy. When I stated this project it had been 20 years since i was a kid spending Saturday in the arcades. That felt like an incredibly distant, deeply nostalgic past. Now it’s been 20 years since the first post in this thread and it only seems like a few years have passed. Strangest thing.
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It's been almost exactly 20 years since I registered. Time does indeed really fly.
There were only a very few projects that stick out from the time, and this one is surely one of them. It was amazing to see the hobby evolve.
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Zakk Lives!
What's up man?
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I also think of this build / thread and video when I hear that song!
Thanks for adding everyone who replied in the thread to the credits!
So fun!
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I haven't been to BYOAC in a long while. Just watched the finished product video. Dude! What a stunning piece of art and craftsmanship. Congratulations man!
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It's the project that got me into this community (even if I mostly lurk, maybe one day I'll get to contribute something worthy) and the closest to an actual, veritable piece of art. I'd definitely pay money for that fabled coffee table book, even in PDF format.
I don't even want to imagine the cost in materials. It had to be staggering.