The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Arcade Collecting => Pinball => Topic started by: chopperthedog on September 18, 2015, 08:11:38 pm
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I've been intrigued with getting to work on a pinball machine for some time now. This cocktail pin had been sitting on CL for about 2 months and it really haunted me for a week after the seller dropped the price for $250 recently. I had stumbled upon some videos in the past on these cocktail pins and the themes were kinda dumb but this one looked cool. It was complete, dirty, not working and listed as a project. I set up an appointment to pick the table up last Thursday and transaction went well.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=335748)
I was happy to see that the telescoping legs that extend the table to a standing position came with the game. I imagine sitting and playing a pinball is pretty lame. Upon first plug in only some of the GI lights powered on. Playfield was in great shape with no wear marks in the paint at all.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=335750)
The same day I set up the appointment there was a new thread on klov for a little cache of allied leisure parts selling for $26 shipped (paid for em 10min later).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=335752)
The main power supply board was producing the proper voltages after a couple fuse changes. The little unit pictured above is what came with these tables stock to supply power to the MPU board. It was showing no signs of life and I didn't care to try and fix it, so it made sense just to replace it with an arcade switcher. When first powered on with the switcher I got some signs of life to the score displays but the led's on the MPU were not doing what they were supposed to. Based upon the initial signs it seemed that the reset circuit chip was tripped and needed repair.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=335754)
Taking the whole thing apart was the best way to clean it. While it was apart I had a chance to get a better look at the board on my bench and holy sh!t!!!, discovered that 2 of the CPU's weren't all the way into the sockets and there was some damage to the lower left of the MPU with 3 broken traces on the board. So now I couldn't wait to get the table cleaned and back together.
Table reassembly was complete and crossed my fingers for the first power up. Powered on and attract lights were flashing (which meant MPU booted), coined up and hit start BOOM!! the ball ejects from the out hole and the thing fu©k!ng works!!!!!!!! There was a number of playfield issues (dead pop bumper, drop targets were a mess and some switches were sporatic) but those are easy issues. What a great moment that was when the ball shot out the first time.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=335756)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=335758)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=335760)
Some interior pics after the cleaning. This table orignally came with a digital "blip" board (what that speaker is for) that sounded like crap, but I was surprised and shocked to see the chime board in it when I purchased it. Apparently at some point the chime board was taken from another allied leisure table since the chimes were wired with stripped wire stuffed into the .156 plug and the other ends that wrapped around the coil lugs with no solder. I was able to use one of the connectors that came with the cache of parts to properly wire in the chimes. I suspect that the black metal shelf that holds the coin counter is what did the damage to the MPU since it was kinda flopping around in the bottom of the cab.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=335762)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=335764)
Drop targets needed some work. There was one missing and 3 others didn't work. These are pretty unique since they are individually controlled and certain ones are only reset based upon the game play. That cache of parts paid off again with a new drop target and a couple springs. I needed to replace 2 of the sub mini microswitches with 2" leafs in the drop target unit.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=335766)
I was really concerned about the dead pop bumper since allied leisure kinda did there own thing and use ALOT of plastic parts. After recieveing 3 new standard metal rod and rings I was pleased to discover that they didn't stem very far from spec when they molded the part in plastic. It's not perfect right now, but the damn thing works again. The rods are a tad shorter and I need to get a little bit stiffer spring for the coil to accomodate for the extra weight of the metal. Good to have a plan of action for the other 2 pop bumpers when those break.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=335768)
Cleaned and waxed the playfield along with installing ALL new #47 bulbs and rubbers. The new rubbers make the game play lightning fast and really fun. It's quite a busy little playfield with a nice variety of items to shoot for. Last little detail is pulling the glass and having a new piece cut by my guy.
I've logged about 30 hours of work on the table over the last week and what an absolute joy it has been bringing this thing back from the dead. I had never seen or touched the inside of a pinball machine til last thursday. This was the greatest learning experience and a superb way to get my feet wet in the world of pins. I've got about $326 into this thing so far. The gained knowledge and hands on learning along with the gameplay are worth far more imho.
good day.
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http://youtu.be/ka1lm0p8tds (http://youtu.be/ka1lm0p8tds)
Shot a quick video on my crappy cam showing off the chime sounds and game play of my table. Other videos of this particular title feature the craptastic "blip" board. viva la chimes!!!
good day.
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Nice find, and nice job on the resurrection of a unique dead machine.
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Nice pickup, Chopper. I've played these cocktail pins at ZapCon, and they're actually quite fun.
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In your game-play video, did the ball at one point actually go back down the launch chute?
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Thanks guys!!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=335862)
In your game-play video, did the ball at one point actually go back down the launch chute?
Yes, and by design. You can see the label call out for the opening in spinner alley. They should have labeled it "shoot again".
good day.
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Yes, and by design. You can see the label call out for the opening in spinner alley. They should have labeled it "shoot again".
good day.
I was freeballing it yesterday... oh, wait... :cheers:
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I was freeballing it yesterday... oh, wait... :cheers:
Pics or you're full of lies!!!!
Installed 3 new 35amp 400v bridge rectifiers on the PSU today and they run much cooler. The 3 that orginally came on the board were rated 25amp 100v. During a long session of about 2 hours they would get super hot and just shut down. New ones are kicking ass.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=335964)
Also spruced up the plain black spinner. :applaud:
good day.
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Put something like this on the other side of that spinner for a cool effect
(http://i.imgur.com/IGzRJsIl.jpg)
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Put something like this on the other side of that spinner for a cool effect
I added a blue one to the other side. When I ordered the 2 target decals I wasn't thinking (pin noob) that the spinner was weighted and defaults to one side after rotation. A graphic like that would be cool though.
good day.
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Finally had a chance to hunt down the reason the knocker coil wasn't firing for coin up and free game acknowledgment. Stared at the schematic for a tad and located the transistor that controlled the knocker and coin counter. I "borrowed" the transistor from the coin counter circuit and knocker now fires nice and loud.
good day.
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Soooooo, I kinda forced myself into doing a board repair for the first time. I "might" have been working on the game and the power "might" have been on and "might" have seen a quick spark while I was adjusting a leaf switch and then noticed 3 lamps on the play field stuck "on". Tried to power cycle the table and the 3 lamps remained stuck. Crap, way to go dumb ass.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=342643)
Old crappy before pic from early october when I first fcuked it up (I forgot to take a better one before the repair). The green arrows show the 3 stuck lamps.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=342645)
The wire color groupings from the play field to the edge connector made it easy to get the general idea of where the issue was on the board. At first I was hoping it was just gonna be a couple transistors. NOPE!, I cooked 3 SN75492AN's. While looking at the schematic I saw the diagram for the chip and the pin outs, with my meter I was able to find the specific legs that were locked on.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=342647)
3 bad chips identified. Not too many options for purchasing these things, but made a purchase for some through a seller on ebay.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=342649)
Chips removed with no pad or trace damage. When I first mucked it up I didn't have a desoldering station and there was no way I wanted to attempt chip work with my $10 radio shack rubber bulb sucker thingy. I've also read some repair logs on these boards and they talk about how fragile the pads are.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=342651)
Sockets were installed for the new chips and the issue is FIXED!!!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=342653)
Been noticing the coils getting weak or just giving up during long periods of heavy use and knew that the 8000uf cap from the 42nd week of 1978 had to finally get replaced, plus R10 wasn't looking so good. Of course it ends up being an odd value that the standard pinball suppliers don't have and got one through mouser.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=342655)
Close up of R10.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=342657)
New cap and resistor installed. No slow downs or fatigue when getting hammered now.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=342659)
Pic of my little bench during chip replacement. Was a good learning experience on many levels. :p
good day.
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Not much to report, table has been 100% awesome with 467 ticks added to the coin counter since my last post. I have this game and my wall games on coin op and never pull quarters, I pick up rolls of from my bank and use the games as polish piggy banks.
The apron damage finally got to me and I came up with a plan of attack to handle it all in one shot. First thing was to handle the warping, judging by some of the fading on the drop target plastics, this thing sat in the sun somewhere. Used a heat gun carefully to take care of the severe bowing. There were multiple areas where the black ink had been eaten away by the adhesive from pads applied at factory to "protect" scratches in the ink. The adhesive also started doing a number on the actual plexi as well. Removed all glue and damaged surrounding ink, taped it off and sprayed the back black.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350266)
Plotted out the exact specs and ordered a new piece that worked perfectly. For future use give your glass guy that pic and tell him "clear, 3/16", tempered, no logo".
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350268)
The score windows were trashed, thankfully the ink sucked so bad it only took a little alcohol to get the windows clear. I got the idea to pick up a roll of that tail light repair tape. Sh!t worked out perfectly.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350270)
I've searched high and low on the interwebz for the score cards and came up dead. Brushed up on my gimp skills and was able to recreate it myself. Font isn't exact, but meh much better than the piss stained looking thing I had been staring at. I found a grainy pic online and was able to create something that looked close to the left card.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=350272)
Much better looking apron now. Score windows and instruction cards top it off nicely. I also attached the PDF of my score cards for anyone that finds this thread in the future.
good day.
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You find and fix the weirdest ---steaming pile of meadow muffin---, and I admire the hell out of you for it.
As always, great job and great documentation.
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Love that pin. I want one.
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Well done! :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
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gclub (http://www.bet365gclub.com)
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http://youtu.be/34vMkKny8yE (http://youtu.be/34vMkKny8yE)
Playing around with the cam on the new phone. Shot a short pov vid that shows the play field and game play off better.
good day.
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http://youtu.be/0zyXBA90aRk (http://youtu.be/0zyXBA90aRk)
And a fun slo-mo. :applaud:
good day.
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Nice Job! love these little guys,
I am working on Take Five its mostly working except Q34 transistor (replay knocker coil) gets very hot. the coil is free and diode looks fine, i replaced the Tip3055 but the new one gets hot to, I think one or more chips were damaged when someone... connected the AC and DC general illumination together. :angry:
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Love that pin. I want one.
Mission Accomplished.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180423/21a1c0c14eb91690974bdda5a1133872.jpg)
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Love that pin. I want one.
Mission Accomplished.
NICE! Does it have chimes or blip board?
good day.
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Full on chimes!!
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Full on chimes!!
Swish!
good day.
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I might hit you up for some tips if I have to dig in to it
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I just picked this Cab up at the Pacific Pinball Expo sale.
Thanks for posting all of your work on this. Hopefully it will provide some guidance for me as I start to work on mine.
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Congrats! Best of the bunch. Got any pics? what's the current state? Were you blessed with chimes or a blip sound board? Please don't led it. I did find some leds that look perfect in the pop bumpers, didn't want to keep cooking the covers with #47 bulbs. I tried many many leds from everyone in the pops and comet has a winner.
good day.
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Congrats! Best of the bunch. Got any pics? what's the current state? Were you blessed with chimes or a blip sound board? Please don't led it. I did find some leds that look perfect in the pop bumpers, didn't want to keep cooking the covers with #47 bulbs. I tried many many leds from everyone in the pops and comet has a winner.
good day.
I need to get some new pop bumpers for my Roy Clark, they’re already burned. I tried some LEDs but they just show how bad they are cooked.
What did you go with? And are they warm or cool white?
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These in warm white. http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smdfd.htm (http://www.cometpinball.com/product-p/2smdfd.htm)
good day.
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Got some parts in to fix those cooked bumper caps!
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180729/abbccf653cebac048aabfd9d8a3eb4c4.jpg)
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Nice. Is that leaf adjuster thingy plastic/fiberglass or metal? Either way, just avoid the mistake I made in post #11 :laugh2: .
good day.
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Nice. Is that leaf adjuster thingy plastic/fiberglass or metal? Either way, just avoid the mistake I made in post #11 :laugh2: .
good day.
Heh - they’re metal. I’ll make sure I don’t adjust with it powered on! :cheers:
Got the caps from PBResource.
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I suppose you could add a small bit heat shrink tubing at the bend and almost to tip. Dummy me was using some small pliers and nicked the GI wire while doing the switch. I need to order one of those tools though.
good day.
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I suppose you could add a small bit heat shrink tubing at the bend and almost to tip. Dummy me was using some small pliers and nicked the GI wire while doing the switch. I need to order one of those tools though.
good day.
PBResource has a bunch of great stuff, tre best price I found on those tools, plus they had the exact caps needed for Allied Leisure pins. Check them out!
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Have ordered from them and marco on occasion, but I'm lucky to be able to get my crack fiend needs fulfilled fast by doing cash and carry with pinball life :applaud: , just about a 40 min drive west of me. Also if you bring the almighty dollar and pick up, the stuff is much cheaper than listed on site. :cheers:
good day.
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Have ordered from them and marco on occasion, but I'm lucky to be able to get my crack fiend needs fulfilled fast by doing cash and carry with pinball life :applaud: , just about a 40 min drive west of me. Also if you bring the almighty dollar and pick up, the stuff is much cheaper than listed on site. :cheers:
good day.
Nice! The only seller local to me is Highscoresaves.com
I still need to get those LEDs you recommended.
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Hello there. I have an allied leisure Star Shooter. It uses the same power supply board and r10 is overheated. Can you tell me the value it is supposed to be? The schematic I have is unreadable in that spot.
Thank you
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New bumper caps with warm LEDs...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180805/a392e7262a702f805a9d7c49a8ff204a.jpg)
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Hello there. I have an allied leisure Star Shooter. It uses the same power supply board and r10 is overheated. Can you tell me the value it is supposed to be? The schematic I have is unreadable in that spot.
Thank you
820ohm 2watt I had the same issue with the bad scan, but I found a good copy of just the power supply schem that was readable (I've attached that page to this post).
New bumper caps with warm LEDs...
neat! those the comets? (dumb question, since the color timbre looks good and the whole body of the pop bumper is illuminated as well).
good day.
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Thank you very much
Hopefully I can resurrect this thing. I am having a hard time locating replacement pop ups for this (waiting to buy till I can confirm it powers up) do you know of any places that have them?
Thank you
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Thank you very much
Hopefully I can resurrect this thing. I am having a hard time locating replacement pop ups for this (waiting to buy till I can confirm it powers up) do you know of any places that have them?
Thank you
Do you mean "pop bumpers" or "drop targets"? Just make sure the 5v supply to the pcb is good and solid, everything else is somewhat easy to fix, but you don't want to cook the board or the custom cpu's.
good day.
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Duh...yeah drop target. I haven't been at this long. Need to get my terminology correct.
My 5v is solid but I will be replacing with a 5v switching power supply. It's the power to the coils (I believe that's the circuit-it's been a week or so since I was looking at it) that is blowing the main fuse. The resistor number you gave me was the final piece I needed to replace components on that circuit( replacing all components on the board actually) Something on the board in that circuit is blowing the main fuse because I can disconnect everything outgoing from the pcb leaving incoming power from transformer and that circuit will cause the main fuse to blow. When I remove that circuit's fuse with only the incoming power connected the main fuse does not blow. Primitive way to diagnose but like I said I'm new to this. Removed the 8000mfg electrolytic cap and its not testing correct and as I understand it a bad one can draw too much current.
I appreciate the responses. Especially seeing how old the thread is.
-James
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Hi Chopper,
I just sent you a PM.
I just bought one of these tables and mine is in need of some power board repairs not unlike your own.
I've attached a pic of my current power board.
As you can see, it needs some help.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Todd
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I think I figured out my shopping list for power board parts.
However, I see you have a new fuse in F5, but I don't see any reference to it.
What did you put in there?
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I ended up starting a blog on Pinside.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/allied-leisure-star-shooter-diving-into-the-restoration-deep-end#post-4551969
There's lots of pictures there.
As you can see from reading it. I'm having a lot of the same power board issues as you and have been documenting my progress with it.
I haven't even begun to think about lighting but will take your advice.
Congrats! Best of the bunch. Got any pics? what's the current state? Were you blessed with chimes or a blip sound board? Please don't led it. I did find some leds that look perfect in the pop bumpers, didn't want to keep cooking the covers with #47 bulbs. I tried many many leds from everyone in the pops and comet has a winner.
good day.
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Duh...yeah drop target. I haven't been at this long. Need to get my terminology correct.
Those might be tough to find unless you happen to run into someone at the right time parting out an allied table out. I have one never used drop target I'm obviously keeping, I had one that was shot completely, but was able to repair 4 others that were bad in mine with epoxy and small strips of plastic for reinforcement.
Hi Chopper,
I just sent you a PM.
I just bought one of these tables and mine is in need of some power board repairs not unlike your own.
I've attached a pic of my current power board.
As you can see, it needs some help.
Any advice would be appreciated.
Todd
Looks like your power board is a different revision, I wonder if F5 is used on the units that have chimes for sound. Where that green plug is, that's where you're gonna want to wire a new switching power supply for good 5v to main pcb, only 4 wires on that plug, real easy to figure out which 2 are the ac line and -/+ 5 from the ps. I hope you ordered a bunch of extra fuses, have a feeling you're gonna be hunting down a couple shorts on the play field or within the transistor section on the pcb. Take it one step at a time, and verify voltages as you go, keep in mind there is gonna be a mix of ac and dc, check docs for pin outs and values.
good day.
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LOL, my bad.
Like on your board, there is no F5 on mine either.
I had not ordered extra fuses yet, but you're right, I guess I'm going to go through a number of them before I get everything figured out.
BTW, is the voltage on your 8000uf replacement capacitor 40v? I'm having trouble finding that part at Mouser. I suppose once I get the bridge rectifiers installed, I should test the existing parts first before ordering any expensive replacement parts.
My primary goal right now should probably be to get it working just well enough to test the cpu board.
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If you keep instantly blowing fuses, you can wire in an incandescent light bulb across the fuse holder. It will keep glowing while you figure out where the dead short is.
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8000 uf @ 40 volts is no longer a standard value of capacitor. You can use a 10,000 uf @ 50 volts instead.
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Hi chopper,
Thanks for making this thread!
I have one of these, and I was hoping you might have some advice. I'm having an odd issue that happens 95% of the time, 5% of the time the game works fine. Game turns on fine, but when you insert a coin it stops all activity on the main board (led3/4 stop flashing and most of the active logic is frozen).
I have traced the coin up signal from J2 pin 21 to IC8 and IC6 and it gets there successfully. I swapped out IC8 with another 6520 with the same results. On a test bench with only 5v connect I get the same results (95% chance to lock up). Address decoder appears to be working but I can only see that it has activity and that the outputs that will never be high or low behave correctly.
Anyone with advice will be appreciated.
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All restores are a labor of love. She looks great.
I did not see where you had found the correct drop targets but that got me thinking. My wife does crafts a lot and she has a machine that I have used to make several templates of various things from a simple line of text stencil to a 5 piece stencil that was used several times on his RC plane. He loves TMNT and I made him a very happy camper and the envy of his friends with it. Each stencil was for a different color applied in the correct sequence. Stickers/decals can't be used as the fuel eats the adhesive. You can buy blank targets and paint them yourself. Stickers or decals will peel after while.
Most of the cutters have programs that are very intuitive and easy to use, even for the novice.
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I print drop target art on shipping labels, slap clear packing tape on them, and affix to the targets. Lasts years.
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PMs sent on September 1st and 26th.
Not sure if you got them, Toby. :dunno
Scott
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I see over on the pinside forums there is a thread about making modern cpu boards for Allied Leisure machines.
https://pinside.com/pinball/forum/topic/new-allied-leisure-mpu