The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: zerohex on November 24, 2015, 09:53:26 am
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Let me start by saying thanks to Mysterysmellyfeet on Reddit. I came across his build (http://imgur.com/a/ajacB) and decided to make it with some small modifications. Also, thanks to stephenpbhs who put his Vewflix standup (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,108011.0.html) mod build out there for Mysterysmellyfeet and myself to steal… I mean use. Also, a big thanks to Scott at Gameongrafix for printing the CP graphics.
I have lurked these forums off and on for a while now. Always wanted to build an arcade but never had the time or space to do it. I got into woodworking about 3-4 years ago and I suck at it but it’s relaxing and I love building stuff no matter how crappy it turns out. Have to learn somehow, right. Anyways, now that the boring intro is over let’s get down to the project. This is my first build and any criticism, scalding, insulting, physical and/or mental abuse, etc. is welcome.
The following tools are being used for this project:
- Table Saw
- Circular saw
- Router w/ Freud Flush trim bit and Yonico 13141 Table Edge bit
- Jig saw
- Orbital Sander
- Graco Paint Sprayer
- Drill Press
- Cordless Drill
The goal is to use the table edge bit to make an elongated roundover(without bead) on all edges to make a smooth flowing structure. All gaps will be filled with bondo and sanded smooth. The finish will match the Nintendo Colors like MysterySmellyfeet’s cabinet but will be a high gloss finish that will be a poor attempt to match Ond’s paint job skills on his awesome cabinet(s).
I have almost everything cut and assembled at this point. A few more pieces then I will start the sanding, priming, sanding, paint, wet sanding, etc. process. I used all 3/4 mdf so it will be a heavy mother . Most of the structure is held with titebond III wood glue.
Electronics being used:
- Intel NUC w/ celeron processor. (It actually works better than I thought it would. I have some spare computer parts and may switch it to a core 2 duo e8400 w/ 9800GT video card and 8 GB ram)
- Pyle 5.25 in wall speakers
- VIZIO E32-C1 1080p 120hz TV (not 100% sure on this)
CP is 2 player with 6 buttons. I bought all the joys and buttons from Ultimarc. Still need to decide on a trackball.
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Here are the current pics I have on my PC. I will try to take more as the project moves along and add them to the Flickr Album.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/715/23195091311_28cb9dd9fe_k.jpg)
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/618/22909772899_3905a7bce6_b.jpg)
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/674/22883606857_5d8e8127a6_b.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5818/22883617387_3e75eb422a_b.jpg)
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One thing I can't figure out is a way to mount the marquee. I was thinking of routing a slot the width of the marquee and sliding it in but I was also thinking I want it sitting flush with the front of the cabinet like the glass will be. Anyone have ideas on how I can accomplish that?
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wet sanding,
Not necessary in my opinion and I wouldn't want water near MDF anyway.
Electronics being used:
- Intel NUC w/ celeron processor. (It actually works better than I thought it would. I have some spare computer parts and may switch it to a core 2 duo e8400 w/ 9800GT video card and 8 GB ram)
The Intel NUC is a great computer for MAME and I have used it, but you should know it's limitations. The celeron will run all the classics but might have some trouble with the 90's games. And if you are going for that authentic look, then HLSL could trip up on some games with that integrated graphics. Just test it out on all the games you want first to be sure it hangs.
One thing I can't figure out is a way to mount the marquee.
Yep, that's a good question. The style in which that marquee box is designed doesn't lend itself well to mounting marquee plexi easily. If your marquee art has dark colors, then you can put batons behind it with magnets to hold it on. I've use magnets a lot on my builds and they can be used in very clever ways. Good luck.
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Thanks for the input vwalbridge.
I'm not to worry about the authentic look on the games as long as it looks good and is playable. It's mainly for my kids to play ;). My 4 year old keeps asking when his big iPad is going to be ready.
On the wet sanding part. I will see how the first 2 coats look before I decide if I need to wet sand or not but I am using this project to work on some finishing skills and want it to have that mirror reflection automotive finish. Not sure if I can get that without a little wet sanding. I did it on a small scrap piece of mdf and after the compound and polish it came out nice. It's a lot of work though.
I will have to look into the magnet method. Sounds like that may be my key to getting that working. Would I just glue the magnets to the back of the plexi marquee? The marquee with be solid black with Red transparent Nintendo logo. I want only the Nintendo logo to just slightly light up.
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Would I just glue the magnets to the back of the plexi marquee? The marquee with be solid black with Red transparent Nintendo logo. I want only the Nintendo logo to just slightly light up.
+1 on making the marquee solid black with a red "Nintendo" logo. Something about a red Nintendo Logo on a white background just looks cheezy.
I epoxied cupboard magnets to the back of my bezel to hold it on to my Mini DK. Here (http://bartopmania.com/index.php/topic,792.15.html) is a link to that thread. (Scroll half way down to see my example.) (Different forum) This solution might seem a little jankey but since your marqee has black edges, you can get away with it because the light will not cast much of a shadow. Hopefully. Black marquees can be tricky. Translite prints don't print out "true" black. It's more of a dark, dark, dark purple if you know what I mean.
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One thing I can't figure out is a way to mount the marquee.
I used two pieces of lexan with the art sandwiched between them. I used clear tape around the edges to tape them together. I put a piece of sealing strip (don't know if that's the proper name for it in english) on top and on the bottom of the marquee.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=339936)
Finally I put a piece of painted u-shaped plastic on the top and the bottom of the marquee to cover the sealing strip.
The marquee should have a little smaller height than the marquee box, the marquee + sealing strip should have the height of the box or slightly more. Since the sealing strip is compressible, you can put the bottom of the marquee into the box, press the top down and slide it in. Then it is held fast by pressure.
Make sure that the marquee box is sturdy enough to withstand the pressure (turned out that mine wasn't, I had to reinforce it).
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Awesome info you guys. Thanks a bunch. The marquee question has been bothering me for the past week or so. Now I have multiple ways to handle it and the magnet method will even help me on the front glass. I was going a way more complicated route on that.
Great job on the mini Kong cabinet vwalbridge. I am going to have to borrow your volume control idea too.
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I used two pieces of lexan with the art sandwiched between them. I used clear tape around the edges to tape them together. I put a piece of sealing strip (don't know if that's the proper name for it in english)
Usually called weatherstripping here in the U.S. Its available at any hardware store.
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I used two pieces of lexan with the art sandwiched between them. I used clear tape around the edges to tape them together. I put a piece of sealing strip (don't know if that's the proper name for it in english)
Usually called weatherstripping here in the U.S. Its available at any hardware store.
Yeah, I actually have about 25ft leftover from my bed cover installation on my truck. They give you so much extra because when it's actually in the weather, it does not last that long.
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Great job on the mini Kong cabinet vwalbridge. I am going to have to borrow your volume control idea too.
Right on. The griffin power mate does work well. A cheap amp will do the job but it you want to make life simple and use desktop speakers, then the power mate knob is an easy volume control solution.
I was actually surprised how little I was adjusting the volume after I set it the first time. I had it in my head that I was going to be turning up and down the volume all the time but I really haven't. I guess it depends on where you keep your arcade. Mine is in the basement so I just run it at one volume level. If you like to adjust volume all the time, then you can just put the knob in an easy-to-access spot.
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Great job on the mini Kong cabinet vwalbridge. I am going to have to borrow your volume control idea too.
Right on. The griffin power mate does work well. A cheap amp will do the job but it you want to make life simple and use desktop speakers, then the power mate knob is an easy volume control solution.
I was actually surprised how little I was adjusting the volume after I set it the first time. I had it in my head that I was going to be turning up and down the volume all the time but I really haven't. I guess it depends on where you keep your arcade. Mine is in the basement so I just run it at one volume level. If you like to adjust volume all the time, then you can just put the knob in an easy-to-access spot.
We don't have basement here in the Louisiana so it's going in my office/game room. I will definitely need to adjust it regularly unless I want arcade theme music in the background while I'm working. I am fooling around with some code to have it automatically mute at certain hours unless you override it but that's not top priority right now so I just mess with it when I need a break but can't work on building.
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Made a little progress over the holiday vacation. May even get done with base sanding/sealing/shaping and able to start priming tomorrow. Filled big gaps and any holes or gouges with bondo. Sealed all edges including routed edges with shellac then drywall spackle to be able to sand really smooth. Still have a good bit of sanding to do before first primer coat.
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/698/23355372046_9d5602dbe8_b.jpg)
(https://farm6.staticflickr.com/5667/23298949971_e6421178eb_b.jpg)
(https://farm1.staticflickr.com/605/22753151284_9d51deae4b_b.jpg)
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Looking at monitor options. I have room for up to a 32 inch TV. So tossing around either getting one of the following:
LG 27 IPS Monitor (http://www.tigerdirect.com/applications/SearchTools/item-details.asp?EdpNo=9885725&Sku=)
or
Vizio 32 1080p TV (http://www.amazon.com/VIZIO-E32-C1-32-Inch-1080p-Smart/dp/B00SMBF3NS/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1448898458&sr=8-1&keywords=32+inch+vizio)
What do you guys think? Any other recommendations are welcome as well. .
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While I've never tried/seen it in person, I have had a few people tell me that drywall mud expands/contracts in heat/cold at different rates than wood and could lead to cracks. Was told to use bondo instead since it would adhere better and less of the above.
Again, 3rd party word of mouth for what it's worth, but just in case before you get too far along it probably would be too hard at this point to change your mind if you wanted.
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Thanks Fryed. The drywall mud is only to help seal the edges. Most of what you see in these pictures will be sanded down even more. I just got a little mud happy and put it on thick. You know, so I can create a dust storm when sanding. I just went back over the whole project looking for any gaps/cracks that need filling. All joints, cracks, screw holes, etc are filled using bondo.
This was my first time ever dealing with bondo, I learned real fast how difficult it can be if you put to much hardener and don't work fast enough :banghead:
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Wow, Crazy that I sidelined this project over a year ago to finish other projects. Then got caught up remodeling the house. Anyways, finally got back to it and it's pretty much done other than getting the components in and getting the front glass ordered and installed.
Here are some updated pics.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3741/33519125506_56aa705db6_t.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/T4Yhe1)
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3843/33519126716_2256a3db34_t.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/T4YhzS)
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I think we can finally chalk this up as complete other than software tinkering and adding games here and there.
(https://c1.staticflickr.com/4/3950/33802008085_7d38920fa6_t.jpg) (https://flic.kr/p/TuY8mR)
Can see the album here: https://flic.kr/s/aHskUxhi9j
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Your front end is terrible.
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What Front End is that?
Like the way you've stuck to a brief with the grey and silver...
is that a small controls display at the bottom of the bezel?
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@pbj - glad you hate it. That was my only goal... But are you referring to "my" front end or my arcade software front end.
@Stigzler - yes, that a 7 inch screen that handles all the controls display thanks to your CPWizbiz paired with CPWizard combo. Front end is Launchbox/BigBox.
Paint is actually automotive lacquer from duplicolor. Candy Coat Silver base for the silver parts and Jet Black for base. And about 4 coats of clear.
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That's a beautiful cabinet.
Love the paint finish, and really love that CPO. Awesome job!
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@Wyo - Thanks. Although I did build it from scratch, I can't take full credit for the full design. It is based off mysterysmellyfeet's cabinet I saw on reedit. Just made my own customization to the cabinet and used a lot of bondo to try and get a seamless finish.
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Oh! recognize the nic now! Small world...
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I can almost guarantee you'll get telegraphing (seams visible thru paint) on the MDF joints where you used drywall compound. A good water based primer helps, will swell edges you'll have to sand down. Another option is 50/50 water and PVA glue to seal it. This will help curb the issue but not 100%.
The guys in the speaker community have struggled with this phenomenon for years and have personally seen $5000 turntables telegraph lines through thick paint.
Bondo is the way to go. Also google "parts express trench method" for an interesting thread that shows how one person handles his seams... Its very labour intense.
Wet sanding is totally fine on MDF, you're not using a bucket of water, and should have all exposed wood sealed before you start the wet sand process.
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@pbj - glad you hate it. That was my only goal... But are you referring to "my" front end or my arcade software front end.
On this forum, front end = software you use to select games. What you have looks awful and detracts from your build. Do better.
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On this forum, front end = software you use to select games. What you have looks awful and detracts from your build. Do better.
By day, he feeds milk via a pipette to little baby birds who have fallen from their nest and who are missing their mummy.
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Project looks awesome. I have been copying the same build and just stumbled upon this. Not to derail but here's where I'm at.
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Project looks awesome. I have been copying the same build and just stumbled upon this. Not to derail but here's where I'm at.
Whatever you do, for the love of god, make sure you choose the right front end.
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Using Maximus. which i know isnt the favorite around here!
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We'll await his Lord's judgement....
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I'm doing the same build and about where you are. Having trouble picking a monitor though. What are you going with? (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170506/02197049132410ac7f20e4711822b26f.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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I used Zinsser BIN to seal my MDF. I'm a big fan of it!