The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Woodworking => Topic started by: ZTylerDurden717 on January 17, 2019, 04:00:32 pm
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Hi guys,
I thought I found info on the forum about this but I lost it. I was going to bottom mount my Sanwa JLF sticks in 1/2" CP thickness. How deep should I go in the recess hole for the mounting plate? I'm using threaded inserts to secure it.
It's either going to be 1/4" or 1/8". Not sure what's recommended given the length of the Sanwa shaft.
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Nevermind folks. The right thing to do was to get an S-mounting plate.
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Hi guys,
I thought I found info on the forum about this but I lost it. I was going to bottom mount my Sanwa JLF sticks in 1/2" CP thickness. How deep should I go in the recess hole for the mounting plate? I'm using threaded inserts to secure it.
It's either going to be 1/4" or 1/8". Not sure what's recommended given the length of the Sanwa shaft.
Slag coin suggests leaving 23-24 mm from the bottom of the ball to the top of your panel, which from when I was looking into meant the mounting plate needed be pretty close to 1/4” below the top of your panel. If you bottom mount though that would leave 1/4” thickness of material which may be an issue if the sticks get manhandled. :dunno:
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Hi guys,
I thought I found info on the forum about this but I lost it. I was going to bottom mount my Sanwa JLF sticks in 1/2" CP thickness. How deep should I go in the recess hole for the mounting plate? I'm using threaded inserts to secure it.
It's either going to be 1/4" or 1/8". Not sure what's recommended given the length of the Sanwa shaft.
Slag coin suggests leaving 23-24 mm from the bottom of the ball to the top of your panel, which from when I was looking into meant the mounting plate needed be pretty close to 1/4” below the top of your panel. If you bottom mount though that would leave 1/4” thickness of material which may be an issue if the sticks get manhandled. :dunno:
Yeah I thought about that and I was like "OK that doesn't sound sturdy enough" and then decided to get the S-mounted plate. Now the situation here is that the S-plate requires about 3/8" (9.1mm) in depth BUT you screw from the 1/2" mark from the bottom/beginning instead of from 1/4" in the previous scenario.
Will it be sturdier this way? No idea, but Slagcoin seems to favor the S-mount versus a flat plate bottom mounting method.
In any case, thanks dude ;D
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Hi guys,
I thought I found info on the forum about this but I lost it. I was going to bottom mount my Sanwa JLF sticks in 1/2" CP thickness. How deep should I go in the recess hole for the mounting plate? I'm using threaded inserts to secure it.
It's either going to be 1/4" or 1/8". Not sure what's recommended given the length of the Sanwa shaft.
Slag coin suggests leaving 23-24 mm from the bottom of the ball to the top of your panel, which from when I was looking into meant the mounting plate needed be pretty close to 1/4” below the top of your panel. If you bottom mount though that would leave 1/4” thickness of material which may be an issue if the sticks get manhandled. :dunno:
Will it be sturdier this way? No idea, but Slagcoin seems to favor the S-mount versus a flat plate bottom mounting method.
In any case, thanks dude ;D
Definitely sturdier, Japanese sticks were designed to mount to metal panels, hence the thin mounting requirements. S plates as I understand it we’re designed to help overcome this in a wood mount without having to swap out the shafts for longer ones (which is an option, but changes the leverage or stiffness of the stick). You could use T-nuts on the top of the wood, and screw in from the bottom of the S-plate, that would probably work well. As another alternative, you could go with a universal mounting plate and route out the top and put another top finishing layer (I’m doing this on my build).
What is going on top, graphics? Do you have freedom to mark up the top cause you’ll put something over it?
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Hi guys,
I thought I found info on the forum about this but I lost it. I was going to bottom mount my Sanwa JLF sticks in 1/2" CP thickness. How deep should I go in the recess hole for the mounting plate? I'm using threaded inserts to secure it.
It's either going to be 1/4" or 1/8". Not sure what's recommended given the length of the Sanwa shaft.
Slag coin suggests leaving 23-24 mm from the bottom of the ball to the top of your panel, which from when I was looking into meant the mounting plate needed be pretty close to 1/4” below the top of your panel. If you bottom mount though that would leave 1/4” thickness of material which may be an issue if the sticks get manhandled. :dunno:
Will it be sturdier this way? No idea, but Slagcoin seems to favor the S-mount versus a flat plate bottom mounting method.
In any case, thanks dude ;D
Definitely sturdier, Japanese sticks were designed to mount to metal panels, hence the thin mounting requirements. S plates as I understand it we’re designed to help overcome this in a wood mount without having to swap out the shafts for longer ones (which is an option, but changes the leverage or stiffness of the stick). You could use T-nuts on the top of the wood, and screw in from the bottom of the S-plate, that would probably work well. As another alternative, you could go with a universal mounting plate and route out the top and put another top finishing layer (I’m doing this on my build).
What is going on top, graphics? Do you have freedom to mark up the top cause you’ll put something over it?
Yeah I have graphics going over the top and I think it'll look cool without the bolts up top (imo). Layering is another beast I'm not ready to conquer for my first build but for sure it's a great idea. I feel better about getting an S-plate now though :cheers:
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How'd this end up going? I just recently started looking at the Japanese sticks and buttons, but I'm in a similar boat since I'm using MDF for my control panel.
I might end up ordering one of these, route out some of the MDF, and bottom mount it with some t-nuts:
https://paradisearcadeshop.com/en/home/controls/accessories-parts/mounting-plates/paradise-arcade/1278_universal-s-arcade-joystick-adapter-plate?search_query=s-plate&results=86 (https://paradisearcadeshop.com/en/home/controls/accessories-parts/mounting-plates/paradise-arcade/1278_universal-s-arcade-joystick-adapter-plate?search_query=s-plate&results=86)
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bottom mount it with some t-nuts:
Bottom mount with t-nuts?
(https://web.archive.org/web/20150214114014im_/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/images/f/f9/TeeNuts.jpg)
If so, I hope you plan to put them on the top of the panel. You can countersink them and add a layer of bondo or wood filler for a smooth control panel top.
If you put them on the bottom they can easily work loose and fall out. :banghead:
(https://web.archive.org/web/20170323173020im_/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/images/c/c2/Joystickmount-undertnuts.png)
. . . or are you thinking about threaded inserts?
(https://web.archive.org/web/20170312205349im_/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/images/0/0b/GGGThreadedInserts.jpg) (https://web.archive.org/web/20170312205222im_/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/images/9/96/UltimarcThreadedInserts.jpg)
(https://web.archive.org/web/20170222050308im_/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/images/9/98/Joystickmount-under.png)
More info on various mounting methods here (https://web.archive.org/web/20160809113045/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ#Joysticks) in the wiki.
Scott
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Thanks Scott. Yea, I just realized yesterday, that there is a big difference between t-nuts and threaded inserts. Glad I caught it before placing an order! Will be checking out that wiki article as well.
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Hey! Sorry just saw this.
Yes it worked out and seems pretty sturdy, thankfully. The part that was unnecessarily draining for me personally was making the threaded insert hole centered where the bolt goes, which is where the s-plate holes are on each side. If the bolt didn't go in then I was pretty much screwed because the joystick is recessed in that exact location with a botched hole.
What gave me peace of mind (but still was not a perfect solution!) was getting self centering drill bits. It took guess work out of finding the center. But hey, some of us are just better at perceiving the center.