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Started by Empo - Last post by nipsmg

Iím going to go with PL1 and recommend against the rotary encoder as a course of action. 

For the control interface, all you need is VERY cheap arduino mega and this:

https://github.com/njz3/vJoyIOFeederWithFFB

You connect your pots (driving and pedal) up to the analog inputs on the board, and the buttons to the digital inputs. Easy. Everything works perfectly, it comes with a calibration and setup program, and it feeds FFB to controllers if you have one connected.  For the FFB, go over to gamoover.net and look in the driving controls forum.  (Use Google translate). 

There are MULTIPLE proven solutions from a board member named Aganyte.  You can buy FFB driver boards from him, and that board is pretty much ground zero for driving cab FFB/interface solutions.  I had all of my conversations by Google translating back and forth, and they are very helpful and accommodating.

Link to my project:  http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,162932.0/all.html

Started by lomoverde - Last post by lomoverde

Back on it this morning.Ran a couple of tests before starting on the real thing again.Watched a couple more YT vids last night,and one guy recomended lightly rubbing over your first coat with a washing up sponge.I gave that a try,and it does very slightly rough up the surface,but also really sharpens up your edge line.Any tiny lines of bleed were removed from yesterdays test peice.

 Gave it a rub over the first coat I had,It really exposes the edges of the stencil,and should help show where the paint needs to be concentrated:



I then got started laying the second coat down.Now the only thing Im still not to sure of is would the paint go on better if the cab was stood up and I was spraying a vertical surface ??

Anyway,I brought a worklamp to the job today and made sure I got full coverage,as there is no 3rd coat.My earlier tests had come up with 12 minutes of drying time seemed about right,so after 12 I removed the masking:



 I found it really hard to not wait longer and let the paint dry totally.But Id run a test earlier,and everyone says peel off while its tacky....So...



Smashed it  :applaud:

 Came off great,and am super happy with the result.
Couple of slight bleeds here and there.But the worst ones will have red over them.
 Going to wait 48hrs for this to fully cure before laying the red stencil.

Started by saint - Last post by lomoverde

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Started by Empo - Last post by Vee21

Awesome work mate, I'm doing a similar conversion on a single Namco racing cab from around the same generation (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,165806.0.html). Yours looks similar to the original Initial D cabs which were one of my favorites.

I like how you have fitted the LCD it looks great, I need to rig something up like that for mine. I'm hoping I can squeeze a 32 inch, I'm using a 27inch monitor at the moment but it just not the same...

PL1 I think the use of the optical rotary encoder is to get FFB working relatively easily using solutions like EMC or MMOS which are preconfigured to have inputs from a optical encoder, example - . I may be completely wrong so please correct me if I am. I'm also looking for a FFB solution, my arcade wheel uses a pot and the wheel is connected directly to a motor, I'm all ears if you know of a way to get some FFB action using a pot with Arduino.
I'm waiting for my motor driver to arrive to start trialing different things to see if I can make it work with the analogue pot.

Keen to see how you go with FFB and see the finished product, good luck!  :cheers:

Started by sirgubster9 - Last post by Vee21

hey mate I recently did exactly what you are trying to do with a racing cab - http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,165806.0.html

Hopefully the thread helps, thanks to the awesome people on here I got it all working using an Arduino Leonardo my next hurdle is force feedback. My setup was potentiometers for accelerate, brake and steering, those were easy to hook up to the Arduino and get them working, you could copy the code in my thread if you decide to go the Arduino path.

I work with computers but had zero clue about electronics (I had no idea what a potentiometer was) so it was a decent learning curve but its damn worth it once you get all working.

Cheers  :cheers:

6   Project Announcements / Re: 1985 Rewindon Today at 04:45:06 am

Started by bobbyb13 - Last post by Jimbo

Looking good!  I'll try and get a look at the base of my cab for you asap.

James

7   Project Announcements / Re: 1985 Rewindon Today at 01:16:01 am

Started by bobbyb13 - Last post by bobbyb13

And...
I was wrong about the Road Blasters cabinet anyway.
I thought since it was released after Paperboy that it was a System 2 game, but nooooo!

Maybe I'll need to make a System 1 cabinet for Road Blasters  >:D

Anyway,
I forced some more time to work on this again today (too hot to cut the ocean of grass, too humid for my drywall mud to fully kick.)
 :)

I was dreading dealing with the coin box because it was going to be so weird, but I was just being a sissy.
It DID however require some fun with ridiculous angles.

For all those making this ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- up as they go along (like me!) you NEED to own these things.



Bevel square and sharp pencil a necessity of course, but this True Angle thing is awesome in case you actually want to know what angles you are actually playing with.
The side of the coin box (because of how I built it) has 3 weird angles so I checked those against my side length measurements a few times before I made a cut.
I still nearly messed it up.

I figured I should anticipate having a legit coin door and cash box stack in this, so I used the one I have in the Rush cab to measure for a porthole.
Then I figured if I was REALLY good then I could use the cut out as a door panel while I wait to spend the $$ on a real door.
So, careful plunge cuts first



Then finishing out the corner radii with a jig saw.
I have found that this really narrow blade works well for even tight curves and while you're cutting you are literally only rotating the saw (instead of actually pushing it around the corner.)
As you twist the saw around, the teeth actually pull it around for you and you can get a really nice curve if you go slowly.



A little sanding to clean up and think this will still work well as a temporary door.



I clamped those three panels together to see how I did and it is actually coming out as I planned it.



If I hadn't shown it before, here is the magic potion for filler that mixes and sands so easily.



I use a digital scale because if you don't get the mixture spot on you can have drama.
This aluzine is getting kind of old too, so it is more intolerant of ratio screw ups.
Mix in a little of that brown microballoon stuff until it is marshamllow consistency and spackle it on!



This stuff should have kicked by now actually (took a dinner break) so I bet I can go start prep for primer coat tomorrow before work.

I bought a new (cheap) sprayer so hopefully it won't choke on some thinned out enamel.
Find out tomorrow!

Started by saint - Last post by bobbyb13

 :dizzy:

Started by saint - Last post by bobbyb13

 :banghead:

Started by FormulaFox - Last post by PL1

Do those QD connectors come in varieties that are crimped onto the wire or do they have to be soldered? I can do the former without concern, but my soldering skills are lacking considerably(though this doesn't exactly look like the kind of precision soldering you need to be fairly skilled to do right)
QDs are crimp connectors intended for stranded wires.  Use ratcheting crimp pliers FTW.
- When using QDs with solid-core wire, I recommend also drilling a through-hole for the wire and soldering it.

 

As you observed, soldering wires onto the switch tabs is not exactly a high-precision job.   :lol
- Tin the wire.
- Slip some heat-shrink on the wire for later.
- Bend the wire.
- Thread the wire through the hole in the switch tab.
- Solder the wire to the tab.
- Cover the connection with the heat-shrink and hit it with a heat gun. (Don't be Bozo with a Bic.   :embarassed:)


Scott
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