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I have to restart a Rowe friend R85 jukebox for a friend. who has owned it for several years

First breakdown. the juke box only took the records placed on the table and put them back in the magazine without reading them.

The Z115 has been replaced by another card.



and the battery was replaced by a button cell + a serial component.


No more disks taken but still not working.



During my on-site inspections. The lights on the power supply are Ok 28 vac = 33 vac 8vdc = 8.5 vdc and 28vdc = 33vdc. The neon lights are on + noise in the speakers when powered on. 8 volt LED on the lit ccc I have 8 volts on pins 2 and 4 p103 and common pin 3

On the CCC switch to most popular, continuous and normal. Switch on off and service on. And no indicator light on the Machinsm control card

But no interior and exterior displays.


I took over the soldering of the CCC connector + price card + control mechanism, a lot had to be done again.


during my tests. I put Switch on off and service on. All disk mechanism worked. All the lights are on at a given time except the channel on the Machinsm control card.

The disc was put on the turntable and started spinning. Then it stopped without playing the disc and no sound.

But no interior and exterior displays.


I have not tested with the parts

I have part of the technical documentation, the diagrams.

I have been a maintenance technician for 10 years and a beginner in electronics

I don't know how to use the "service buttons"


Thank you in advance for your help

And can you give me the protocol to follow?

Nicogef
attached the photos

Thanks all , I'll definitely experiment with a fan, it'd cool the PC as well haha.

The TV isn't quite saved yet, something is still missing on the s-video side. I have an image, but black and white only. I can trace continuity all the way through from the chroma pin so I'm not sure what's going on there. I have beautiful color through RGB now, but I can't get it to sync whatsoever. Currently testing with a SNES Jr and N64 since both are RGB modded, I've tried connecting csync to the svideo luma pin, composite, and main-y on the PCB, none seem to make a difference. I'm not particularly knowledgeable when it comes to electronics, so if anyone is an expert on sync at all help would be appreciated! I've never had to worry about it since I run component for every system I own. The TV Is an AA-2D chassis so plenty of documented mods that all obtain sync from similar locations.

I'd really like to get s-video fully functioning to ensure nothing there is messing with my sync, otherwise I couldn't really care less about it.

EDIT: GOOD NEWSSSSSS. Found another trace and fixed my chroma issues, had a pad I fixed spliced to the wrong side of a resistor. S video fully functional and more importantly RGB is working great and looks absolutely incredible. Back to finalizing my design plans so the woodworking is as easy as scribe and cut... And finish my coin slides and sensor circuitry. It was a sad 15 hour day of no food or breaks, but what a relief to have it working.

1st - good job fixing that pcb. I snapped a neck board in half and had no luck and ended up tossing a nice 27" sony about a year ago.

I know it's crazy but it's like the fan motor is acting like a constant degauss which is what is required on one of my sets. Somehow, facing either east or north I cannot get the shadow mask demagnetized even with a powerful coil, or magnets on the metal ring around the tube like I've done in the past. Its a sega astro city cabinet, and I place the fan on the inside of the coin box so honestly the fan is within 12"-20" from the top of the tube, basically next to the chassis board because I at first thought it was overheating because It would get more and more screwy the longer it was on, so I thought an IC was overheating. I'm not super smart with electronics but I understand enough to be dangerous.

You could likely fit a box fan or any fan really either behind the tube or in the base of the cabinet - for example I've also sat the fan on top of my computer tower in the base and that is close enough - I've tried different types of fans, like squirrel cage blowers and regular fans and to be honest the cheapest ones I found at goodwill seemed to be the most reliable. 

Anyways - hope this helps and PM me if you need anymore information. Can't wait to see how you progress on this project!

There’s a really good and perhaps slightly better in some ways port on SEGA Master System.

I could do without Dixie but it is what it is.

Way to go saving that TV. 

I have done so much reading over the last two weeks that I can't do it anymore. I'm about to just turn off Switchres and use mame without it but I gotta ask for help here in case I am overlooking something real simple.

I am using fresh install of Win 7 Pro with an AMD ATI Radeon HD 6450 and CRT_EMUDRIVER with a Betson Kortek KT-2914F CRT. 47 Modes were installed using super Modes. I am not sure if it matterts, but I cannot see any resolutions below 2560 by 480 in windows, even though they work fine using Arcade_OSD.

Essentially, I cannot get Groovymame .263 to use the custom crt_range0 that Calamity provided MANY people to resolve the vertical resolutions above 240p, or 256p to work. I copied it into a vertical.ini file and made sure it was in the correct ini folder but looks like it is not being read in the logs. I can see it attempting to load in the logs but it always defaults to 2560 x 288p resolution. To make sure it wasnt a path problem I used a clean build of GM from github with only a handul of roms and clean mame.ini file. The strange thing is that even if I remove CRT_RANGE0 from the ini file it still uses the 288 resolution. I know the mame.ini is being read since if I delete all the crt ranges, then I get the "could not find a video mode.." message and it loads the default resolution. I do have monitor custom in btoh mame.ini and vertical.ini. I've tried every single config change I could find and nothing is working, but for the sake of creating this log file I used a clean mame.ini   

I don't like to ask for help without doing my due diligence, but I gave it all I got.  Thanks for any ideas..

It's good to see the number of options are increasing, thanks for adding support for this one.

A bit related off-topic...Are there any other devices like this that would work on any computer (i.e. a generic USB graphics card, etc)?


Or is MisTer the only alternative to specific graphics card + drivers to achieve native resolutions?

Well that was incredibly stressful:





These traces are very small, originally I thought the crack might be mild enough I could just scrape back a mm and solder direct, but that was very unreliable. So I bypassed the worst of it with jumper wires. Some of the lower breaks I had no problem bridging. I'm still missing some as s-video and likely my scart input isn't working yet, but my color is normal again and composite video is back...




The purity issue I'll get back to, it's interesting the purity rings seem to do absolutely nothing on this set. It's very sensitive to direction, I get 1 corner discolored if I face it North, but not South. It absolutely does need to degauss on rotation, not a big deal though, it has a very strong degauss coil in this set actually. I also have a manual coil. Magnets correct purity, the issue is as soon as the set degausses it undoes the improvement from magnet placement. The fan thing is very interesting, how close were you putting it? I mean a degaussing tool is basically just a bunch of wire wrapped in a circle from what I understand.

Oops

change your motherboards cr2032 battery. it's dead. that's why it doesn't power on automatically. it's lost the bios settings.

then you gotta boot it, go in the bios and set the option "on AC loss" to "power on". it's default is set to "stay off". ( a third option is "last state" but not real useful) save and reboot.