The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Driving & Racing Cabinets => Topic started by: jayc001 on February 02, 2020, 03:13:36 pm
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Hi,
I have a Daytona cabinet which used to run CRT and a hacked PC steering wheel controller on the stock 5k pots. The flyback trans went on the CRT and after retro fitting a LCD it seems the arcing from the flyback must have zapped the controller for steering/throttle/brake as they went really screwy and wouldn't work correctly any more. As I have higher def 1080p screen now I'm interested in playing newer games and especially m2/m3/pc driving games and the arcade dump of Daytona 3. What controller would people recommend? U-HID or A-PAC? Possibly something else? I don't want to be changing out the steering or throttle set up so something that would work with the 5k pots would be ideal.
Thanks
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I think there's really something in starting block
https://www.gamoover.net/Forums/index.php?topic=41719.0
I think it's going to be the must , you've got an HAPP or a MODEL 2 system you will need this and another CARD to go with your system a PWM2HAPP or PWM2M2
Thanks to People who works on this :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
Arcade is good , Arcade is great , Arcade is LIFE ;) ;) ;)
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I have both the Apac and Uhid. They'll both do what you want. If it's just for the wheel, pedals and buttons for a single race cab, the Apac is more cost effective unless you are also hooking up outputs like lamps, in which case, the Uhid is the way to go.
Neither of them will run the force feedback motor (at least not without some custom scripts). Depending how handy you are with a soldering iron, hacking a PC ffb race wheel is also an option. It's all just pots and buttons under the hood.
Some people use Arduinos for diy ffb race wheels too. There's probably some ready made code you can download for it somewhere.