The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: Xerobull on September 18, 2015, 04:21:20 pm
-
UPDATE 01/2019
Installing all RGB LED buttons and upgrading the sticks to Sanwa (also RGB)
LINK (https://mega.nz/#!bVsRQAiT!2rpmqb3nCerf74OwWT29can4X31ItpDT7Cdn3d1LI50)to Control Panel PSD (Photoshop) File. Other items added at the bottom of this post under 'resources'
UPDATE 9/20: Updated CP layouts
Hey guys- Been working on a pedestal design for a few weeks.
Four player led-backlit controls, backlit trackball, no other controls outside of possibly a wiimote for gun/wheel setup if I can get the dolphin bar working acceptably.
Control panel will incorporate an embedded 12-inch widescreen monitor for marquees/control layouts/art.
Main monitor (32") will be mounted on the wall.
I'm shooting for black base with red t-molding. I'll probably do laminate as I have kids in the house that will beat the hell out of it and paint might not be a durable solution.
Here's my beta control panel layout, some of which is shamelessly canibalized from other people's designs; I got the base PSD files from saneless on reddit (I know he's a user here somewhere too).
As this is a beta, I'd like some constructive feedback on the button/joystick layout. I just realized that the 1-4 start/coin buttons were a little mixed up. Here is a thumb of the CP design and a link to the lifesize cp. Characters are subject to change- I have had some suggestions I'll try to throw in there. The characters come from games & characters I grew up with, as well as some my 9-year-old son loves.
---Layout with JUST controls & embedded monitor.
NOTE: The grey outline for the embedded monitor is for illustration purposes only; the finished product should be fairly invisible when turned off.
(http://i.imgur.com/qCiHIKQh.gif)
UNSCALED (HUGE) VERSION HERE (http://i.imgur.com/qCiHIKQ.gif)
---Layout WITH characters & embedded monitor with graphic mock:
(http://i.imgur.com/EfV20cDh.gif)
UNSCALED (HUGE) VERSION HERE (http://i.imgur.com/EfV20cD.gif)
Thanks for looking!
Resources:
LINK (https://mega.nz/#!bVsRQAiT!2rpmqb3nCerf74OwWT29can4X31ItpDT7Cdn3d1LI50)to Control Panel PSD (Photoshop) File
Button Layout Template (https://mega.nz/#!TV0FiSRC!bNXvgKAamibyd0971Q6b6a5qejhO2TqYKeAIlTbMJz4)
For the embedded monitor, I re-purposed a small laptop monitor with an LCD Controller board. THESE ARE MONITOR SPECIFIC. Ask the seller if it is compatible with your monitor.
Here's the one i purchased on eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/M-NT68676-2-LCD-LED-Controller-Board-HDMI-DVI-VGA-Audio-For-LVDS-Display-Screen-/161320408901?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l10137.c10&nordt=true&rt=nc&orig_cvip=true)
Here's another one on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Controller-HSD190MEN4-M170EN06-1280x1024-30Pins/dp/B06X9NJ2NR/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1538351320&sr=8-5&keywords=M170EG01&linkCode=sl1&tag=e074d-20&linkId=02250be1f490896970f88c35081d6da8&language=en_US)
Pedestal measurements:
(https://i.imgur.com/zAL3MEg.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/PfC3DwT.jpg)
-
Welcome to the fleet!
Aircraft carrier parking is tight, so its all on a first come first serve basis.
-
Aircraft carrier....check
8 buttons...check
EVERY single video game character...check
monitor ON the control panel...check
angled joysticks...check
...you got it all covered
EDIT: Of course, I tease. :)
-
32" monitor is too small.
-
32" monitor is too small.
Is it, though? The pedestal will be close to the wall...maybe a few feet back. If I get much bigger info is going outside of my field of vision.
-
I had a 39". It was adequate. Now I've got a 48". I wish it was a 55".
-
Layout feedback:
- Player 1 & 3 on the right?
- The button outlines overlap the joystick outline, looks bad and may cause an issue with the buttons hitting the joystick mounting plate.
- You may not want/need that many admin buttons.
-
Layout feedback:
- Player 1 & 3 on the right?
- The button outlines overlap the joystick outline, looks bad and may cause an issue with the buttons hitting the joystick mounting plate.
- You may not want/need that many admin buttons.
That's a typo; 3-1-2-4 will be the layout
The button design is a perfect copy of the 'Sega' layout from Slagcoin. The graphic overlap was intentional. The spacing works fine. However, I can delete the joystick portion that underlaps the buttons- that was something I was leaning towards anyway. :)
(http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout/sega1.png)
BTW, found the original design and thread (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=39025.0) by the member here, Jarrett. Thanks for the awesome work!
Thanks for the feedback! Keep 'em comin'!
Question- I want to put two buttons somewhere in there for mouse buttons- ideas?[/list]
-
Please don't angle your players 3 and 4 joysticks! :(
-
I want to put two buttons somewhere in there for mouse buttons- ideas?
Why? :dunno
I understand having them on a portable controller that you connect to non-dedicated computers, but if you have your FE/emulators/other software set up properly on a dedicated system, you shouldn't need them.
Have you installed and configured the software to see exactly which admin buttons you need and actually use?
Scott
-
Please don't angle your players 3 and 4 joysticks! :(
Noted- I'll change this. Thanks!!! ;D
I want to put two buttons somewhere in there for mouse buttons- ideas?
Why? :dunno
I understand having them on a portable controller that you connect to non-dedicated computers, but if you have your FE/emulators/other software set up properly on a dedicated system, you shouldn't need them.
Have you installed and configured the software to see exactly which admin buttons you need and actually use?
Scott
Good point on the mouse buttons. I do have the front end set up, no need for mouse, really. I was thinking utility, but...You're right. I'll have a pull-out keyboard/mouse tray anyway. Thanks! :)
-
I have mouse buttons, but I set them to be the 7th button on P1 and 2 (out of 7buttons). They're rarely used in games but I like having them. The few games that need B7 would need to be remapped anyway and they use the mouse buttons just fine
-
Cleaned up some graphics, added the embedded monitor mock, changed the orientation of the p3&4 joysticks to not be angled. NOTE: The grey outline for the embedded monitor is for illustration purposes only; the finished product should be fairly invisible when turned off.
Feedback requested:
Control placement
Where to put master controls/ suggestions on master controls. Currently I'd like to have Select/Launch, Exit, Pause, Menu, Save, Load...any others that you guys have found useful in the past?
Background: Keep black, add graphics?
Thanks, all!
-
Cleaned up some graphics, added the embedded monitor mock, changed the orientation of the p3&4 joysticks to not be angled. NOTE: The grey outline for the embedded monitor is for illustration purposes only; the finished product should be fairly invisible when turned off.
Have you already purchased the embedded monitor? For something minor like that which will just be instructional, why so big? Why not a 6" or 8" screen? If you are set on 12", is it behind plexi because follow-through on that trackball could hit the thing.
As for the graphics, all black is not enough but 200 characters is too much. Cut out like 80% of those characters. Less is more.
Plus no need for the explanation on players/coin 1-4. You are using LED buttons so get the translucent inserts and place them behind the plungers.
Feedback requested:
Control placement
Where to put master controls/ suggestions on master controls. Currently I'd like to have Select/Launch, Exit, Pause, Menu, Save, Load...any others that you guys have found useful in the past?
Why so many buttons? What all are you going to emulate? All you need are 4 buttons for players 3 and 4 and 7 for player 1 and 2.
And even 7 is overkill since you will have LED buttons and could always illuminate the top 3 and button 1 for neo-geo games.
For admin buttons, only put exit, pause, and maybe select on your control panel. I would put select, exit, and pause on the player 1 side of the screen. Possibly another pause on the player 2 side of the screen. And if it was my panel I would actually put a second exit button on player 2 side that require both to be pressed at the same time to exit (discourage sore losers).
If you want menu/save/load you can either use a shift key or place them somewhere hidden like under the panel or on the back of it.
-
GG- Thanks for the feedback! H-town represent!
Embedded monitor- I came in to it. Also, I've looked at smaller monitors and I feel like anything under 9 will be too small. This can also double as a gaming monitor in a pinch. It will be covered so the trackball follow-through won't be an issue.
Admin buttons- I like utility. But, I love your idea of having some on the back side of the CP, and I love the shift key idea (it's on ipacs anyway, duh!).
Player buttons- MUGEN. You can play four player, six button games all day long. For player one and two, with fighting games, you can use buttons 4 and 8 for PPP or KKK, or some other macro. Utility. AND you can substitute buttons as joysticks for dual joystick games. I know it's not as elegant as a second joystick but take a look at hitboxes (http://www.hitboxarcade.com/)- these wackos play fighting games JUST buttons! ;D
Graphics- I completely get that there are purists/artists here that have honed their craft, knowledge and tastes to a fine edge, and that what I am planning may make their eyes bleed. I could easily make something extremely clean with perfect lines and angles. If I were single I would do something clean and perfect like a tribute to Frank Lloyd Wright, with minute details like the Flynn's Arcade cab (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135116.0.html) with it's faux serial, embroidered bar stool, perfectly clean pixels, etc. However, the idea behind this cab is that it's for my family, friends, and me. The characters I've laid out are a montage and tribute to things I think are awesome. The feedback I've gotten from my family and friends is a unanimous, jaw-dropped WOW. That's why it's bursting with characters and every button and joystick will light up. I want it to give the impression of somewhere between a 1980's arcade on a Friday night and a Vegas gaming floor.
Thanks again for the feedback- keep 'em coming! :applaud:
Hmm...wish I hadn't gone on that Frank Lloyd Wright tangent- my brain is buzzing with design ideas now..
-
Lookin good dude. Didn't realize so many of us here were from H-Town! :cheers:
I'll be keeping an eye on this one.
-
Lookin good dude. Didn't realize so many of us here were from H-Town! :cheers:
I'll be keeping an eye on this one.
Another h-towner? This is the perfect week for you. Ya'll can do some research here:
http://www.joystixamusements.com/pacmanfever/default.asp (http://www.joystixamusements.com/pacmanfever/default.asp)
Also Xero you didn't say anything about the player/coin buttons. I like the circle around each one but like I said, delete the writing and use these:
http://www.ultimarc.com/ultralux.html (http://www.ultimarc.com/ultralux.html)
You could do it white and RGB or just have them per color for each player.
As for admin buttons, just remember you don't want to over complicate things and people will press a button if they see it. Human nature after all.
-
looking good, my 4 player pedestal gets used pretty heavily. As for admin buttons, i say go with as few as possible. IF you are the only one playing the cabinet, then having a bunch of admin buttons can be convenient, however you are building a 4 player cabinet, which indicates you intend to have other people playing it. It has been my experience, that people will just push buttons, all of the buttons, just to see what they do. aside from action buttons coin and start buttons, i only have 1 other button on my panel. It is located in the center of the panel and serves two functions. It is setup with an autohotkey script so that with a quick press, it acts as the pause button, but if you press and hold it for 3 seconds, it is the exit button. this makes it so nobody accidentally exits the game, yet it is easy to exit when you need to. it also keeps the panel from being cluttered. I am using an Ipac 4 for my controls, the nice thing about the ipac is that it not only can be set to support key strokes, but also mouse clicks. i have p1 b1 and b2 as mouse left and right click when the shift button is held down. this allows me to have mouse buttons when i need them, but prevents them from being activated accidentally. It isn't the easiest thing to use, but it you just need a click or two, it is fine. I keep a wireless keyboard w/ touchpad inside the cabinet if i need to do more.
as for the number of buttons per player, that is overkill for mame, but if you plan on playing PC games, or console emulators, then having the extra buttons could come in handy.
-
Thanks for the feedback, severdhed!
I read your build thread a while back; you inspired me to get a drill guide. Such an awesome, ingenious gadget. No love at Harborfreight any more but Amazon has them.
Buttons (GG too): I scrapped all of the text next to all of the buttons except players 1-4. I'll be doing inserts for the admin/player/coin buttons. I will be emulating tons of stuff so see the need for extra buttons. Admin buttons- I'm still debating the amount of admin buttons. I think I might still keep several but have a side/hidden shift key that has to be pressed for most of the buttons to work.
I got with Lucian the print guy and have my graphics almost finalized. I'm struggling a little with getting the colors right for printing; I have exactly an hour of Illustrator experience, so any tips at this point would help.
Thanks!
-
Another h-towner? This is the perfect week for you. Ya'll can do some research here:
http://www.joystixamusements.com/pacmanfever/default.asp (http://www.joystixamusements.com/pacmanfever/default.asp)
Oddly enough I STILL haven't been to Joystix! I'd like to go soon though. Do you guys make it out to the Arcade Expo in November?
Thanks for the feedback, severdhed!
I read your build thread a while back; you inspired me to get a drill guide. Such an awesome, ingenious gadget. No love at Harborfreight any more but Amazon has them.
Buttons (GG too): I scrapped all of the text next to all of the buttons except players 1-4. I'll be doing inserts for the admin/player/coin buttons. I will be emulating tons of stuff so see the need for extra buttons. Admin buttons- I'm still debating the amount of admin buttons. I think I might still keep several but have a side/hidden shift key that has to be pressed for most of the buttons to work.
I got with Lucian the print guy and have my graphics almost finalized. I'm struggling a little with getting the colors right for printing; I have exactly an hour of Illustrator experience, so any tips at this point would help.
Thanks!
Those drill guides work ok but there's a little slop in them so you have to be careful. Still better than freehand most of the time though. Good move on the shift function. I use the preconfigured 'Start + Right' on the IPAC all the time for MAME menus. Super handy and it stays out of your way.
-
Nobody goes to Joystix. Game Preserve in Humble is a bigger deal but I'm not driving that far. Get your butt to LSPA in Hockley if you haven't been.
I'll make an appearance at the expo.
:cheers:
-
A few updates:
I've pretty much finalized my graphics. Not a huge change from what's posted now. I hope to have them by Friday.
I'm going to do the pedestal base almost exactly like Severdhed's TMNT Pedestal (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,134038.msg1381490.html#msg1381490). The shape will be the same but the doors, vents, etc, will be a little different. I'm also doing a fold-out opening with a pull-out keyboard tray.
I decided on MDF and painting after all. Protip: All big-box store saws cut at a slight angle (in my experience), so be aware that getting your wood cut in-store is going to require you to do clean-up cuts at home.
I'm putting recessed castors on the bottom as I have four left over from a store shelf I scrounged from the back of a closed furniture store. Two of them have locks.
I will be cutting the MDF this week and fleshing out the base.
I realized I hadn't ordered the T-Molding yet. I'll do that now.
Side tangent: I've been brainstorming different, creative builds over the past few weeks, mostly due to reading these forums and seeing the absolute masterpieces and great members here. I've also had a couple of friends approach me about building them cabs after I showed them my plans. I'm hesitant to pursue either of these threads further because this pedestal was supposed to be my one build for the next few years, but it makes it hard. Oh, and I also came into an unknown-make multiple classic game cab that I need to go pick up; that will make three with the pedestal and the busted-up gutted Double-Dragon cab that was given to me last month.... I don't think my house is big enough. >:D
Thanks again for all of the awesome feedback!
Nobody goes to Joystix. Game Preserve in Humble is a bigger deal but I'm not driving that far. Get your butt to LSPA in Hockley if you haven't been.
I'll make an appearance at the expo.
:cheers:
Honestly, Joystix is open too late for me these days. I used to be a first in, last out kind of bar-hopping guy but now with a family, regular work-hours job and grad school, starting at 9 PM is too much for me as that's usually when I'm winding down. LSPA sounds more my speed and I would travel a good ways to play pinball all day.
-
Nobody goes to Joystix. Game Preserve in Humble is a bigger deal but I'm not driving that far. Get your butt to LSPA in Hockley if you haven't been.
I'll make an appearance at the expo.
:cheers:
Game Preserve is the jam of course. Haven't been to LSPA but I love their website! http://lspinball.com/musuem1.html (http://lspinball.com/musuem1.html)
-
Your going to have issues of Bashing your hands into the joystick, when using that Trackball.
You should have at least a 1ft diameter circle area around the trackball, that is free from any vertically high objects. By offsetting the controller Near low buttons.. it wouldnt be symmetrical.. but might save you and friends from broken fingers.
I will add... i think its a little cramped. You have to imagine peoples forearms ... ans how they will be nearly overlapping overs buttons / controls.
The pointed cp angle may also be reconsidered.. as someone might try to rest against the side of the machine, and be quite discomforted.
The Aircraft Carrier comment is typical of a Stagnant OCD attitude.
This isnt a unified cab. Its a pedestal. Its also not an arcade machine that was designed for smaller kids, and to take less floorspace up.. so that the Op's didnt complain (wanting more games in the arcade, rather than merely monstrous machines).
Its a home machine. Its yours. Make it as big and comfy as you wish. These guys are not living in your house.
-
Your going to have issues of Bashing your hands into the joystick, when using that Trackball.
You should have at least a 1ft diameter circle area around the trackball, that is free from any vertically high objects. By offsetting the controller Near low buttons.. it wouldnt be symmetrical.. but might save you and friends from broken fingers.
I will add... i think its a little cramped. You have to imagine peoples forearms ... ans how they will be nearly overlapping overs buttons / controls.
The pointed cp angle may also be reconsidered.. as someone might try to rest against the side of the machine, and be quite discomforted.
The Aircraft Carrier comment is typical of a Stagnant OCD attitude.
This isnt a unified cab. Its a pedestal. Its also not an arcade machine that was designed for smaller kids, and to take less floorspace up.. so that the Op's didnt complain (wanting more games in the arcade, rather than merely monstrous machines).
Its a home machine. Its yours. Make it as big and comfy as you wish. These guys are not living in your house.
Thanks for the feedback!
No worries on snarky comments. Doesn't bother me at all. I think 'Aircraft Carrier' is rather apt and funny.
As far as this being cramped...It might end up being that way. I know this basic CP layout has been copied several times on these forums and I've never seen a complaint about the trackball being too cramped. I've also had a MAME cab before with less room and it wasn't an issue (that I remember, anyway). At any rate, this is turning into a proof of concept more than anything else as I'm getting a lot of interest in building a few for my friends. If it's too much of a cramped layout I will build another one and flip this one! :)
I will add that I've been building my PC game collection for the pedestal and there are several modern games that need 7-8 buttons, so I feel a little vindicated in additions.
Keep 'em coming- I learn from everything, so bring teh snarks.
-
Keep 'em coming- I learn from everything, so bring teh snarks.
Any dude that can roll with the punches gets the Yots Seal of Approval. :cheers:
-
The button design is a perfect copy of the 'Sega' layout from Slagcoin. The graphic overlap was intentional. The spacing works fine. However, I can delete the joystick portion that underlaps the buttons- that was something I was leaning towards anyway. :)
(http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout/sega1.png)
Out of curiosity, have you put that button layout to any tests? Meaning, use cardboard and put your buttons in it and see how it feels playing games? I don't know about you but my right hand doesn't feel comfortable bending to the right to play games. My hand naturally is angled to the left. TL;DR - Find that button layout very uncomfortable, YMMV.
-
Out of curiosity, have you put that button layout to any tests? Meaning, use cardboard and put your buttons in it and see how it feels playing games? I don't know about you but my right hand doesn't feel comfortable bending to the right to play games. My hand naturally is angled to the left. TL;DR - Find that button layout very uncomfortable, YMMV.
I agree. make a few mock ups of your control panel in some scrap wood or cardboard or something. I've played around with mine so many times until i finally found a layout that worked well for me...and i'm still not 100% sure i made the right choice. i decided to go with a 7 button layout, so i could have a neo geo layout and a fighter layout. i am very happy with the button placement i chose, but since i've put some steam games on my cabinet, i can't help but feel like i should have gone with 8 buttons.
here is the layout i went with.. it is similar to the one you posted, but yet the curves the opposite way. this felt much more natural to my hands. I didn't use a pre-defined template, i made my own.
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-mC2RsOTtk-0/Uizbl2J5QwI/AAAAAAAACuk/12M8odXLSv8/w737-h553-no/20130908_161643.jpg)
i suggest using a scrap of wood or cardboard and try out a few different layouts to see what feels good
-
I know this basic CP layout has been copied several times on these forums and I've never seen a complaint about the trackball being too cramped.
Its my opinion that people often do not like to admit their mistakes.. and so do not post them.
I would guess, that a lot of these people simply adjust the trackball sensitivity to try to counter the error.
As such, more sensitivity can allow you to roll the ball far less... to get the desired game movement.
The problem with this.. is that you reduce the amount of control and interaction. You cant get as true of an angle.. and you cant get the same kind of acceleration and speed control.. in such a short frew milimeters of a stroke.
Furthermore... the games difficulty becomes far too easy as a result. Often trackball games are supposed to make you work up a good sweat. You have to roll them with ferocity, to get the character up to top speeds... and maintaining that, is no easy task. But its awesome fun. A good example is Atari XO football. Its no "Looker", but I played the real deal a few years back.. and it was really wild fun trying to move that 4"? diameter ball like a madman. More typically known, is Marble Madness. The ball is never intended to move that fast, due to the levels being small... so you have to roll crazy fast to counter the simulated heavy mass of the ball.
In a golf or bowling game.. to get a very hard maximum powered strike... you would need awesome acceleration. This meant spinning the crap out of the ball. It wasnt easy to get the maximum result. However, when you increase the sensitivity.. anyone can attain the maximum shot power.. every single time. The game them becomes too easy.
Id also guess, that people instead are merely using it as a menu / selection device. Or use to control PC games. Rather than games like Golden Tee, Shuuz, Capcom Bowling...etc.
When you know how the game is supposed to play, I think it helps. I feel too many people have never played these games.. and so are not really familiar with how the controls should work... as well as how the games should feel, react, and be set up. It does not help, that mame has no form of accuracy of calibration of these controls.
As for the Snark... its usually meant with mean spirit. Especially with certain members here.
Good to know you can take the hook. Too bad it has to be thrown.
As for buttons.. no need to explain.
For me, I found that Concave buttons are not a good choice for curved button layouts. Its more suited to japanese flat or convey buttons.. so you can lay your hands flat. However, concave buttons feel better to me.. but, you cant keep your fingers flat to use them well. Instead, you bend the fingers at the knuckles. This causes your hand spread to be reduced.. but it also gives you better lever action.. for more ease of repeated pressing. I found the curve to be a real problem.. because I kept losing my place.. and my fingers often hit the edges of the button.. which is not comfortable at all.
Additionally, you may consider one of those buttons to use a real old skool leafswitch button. These are really great for Rapidfire games like Halleys Comet, Galaga, Satans Hollow, Asteroids Deluxe..etc. You can press them to where they made contact... then lightly vibrate with almost zero effort at all.. for an amazing fire rate... as well as far reduced physical strain. I cant imagine playing a game like Halleys Comet without one.
-
Small update:
-Did all of the cuts and built most of the base of the pedestal this weekend.
-'Primed' the cut edges of the MDF with drywall compound.
-Got my CP graphics and CP template in from Lucian, looks perfect!
-Ordered barrel Soss hinges for the front fold-out panel for the keyboard drawer.
Normally I would come home from work and continue knocking this out but as I'm in Grad School, homework trumps play time. We also had a rash of car robberies in my neighborhood early yesterday morning which threw off my schedule for the day (they didn't get anything from me).
I'm hoping to finish the build by the end of this weekend and start painting. I'll get pics up soon of the progress.
Question: I'm going to have surround sound built-in. Any good ideas of where to place the speakers? Obviously Front in front, but where to put the rear speakers- sides or back?
-
-Ordered barrel Soss hinges for the front fold-out panel for the keyboard drawer.
What is the keyboard for?
-
-Ordered barrel Soss hinges for the front fold-out panel for the keyboard drawer.
What is the keyboard for?
All emulators run on a Windows 7 install. Front end is Hyperspin.
-
-Ordered barrel Soss hinges for the front fold-out panel for the keyboard drawer.
What is the keyboard for?
All emulators run on a Windows 7 install. Front end is Hyperspin.
So you are building an entire drawer to house a keyboard for setting up Windows and Hyperspin?
-
You'll find more than a few recommendations here to dispense with the keyboard drawer. A properly set up system shouldn't require interfacing with the Windows shell for routine play, and for those times when you need to either update software or whatever, a bluetooth keyboard should do the job just fine.
-
Progress!
I've been slammed with work, a few colds and grad school but finally had time to work on the build over the weekend and the past couple of days.
The cab is in the painting process. As the CP itself was only going to be primed, I decided to apply the graphics and install the controls. It turned out way better than I anticipated, especially the monitor, which I was a little iffy on. The monitor hole was bigger than anticipated, and I ended up cutting off the heads of some of my sprites but was able to reattach them in a creative way.
(https://i.imgur.com/7V8u0g8.jpg)
LED Check!
(https://i.imgur.com/IgNSz4R.jpg)
Man, these puppies are bright! My wife said she was picturing the electricity meter spinning around like in Christmas Vacation. (note: trackball light not yet installed).
Tomorrow I'll apply the final coat of paint (satin) to the cab body and let it dry for a day. I'm off work, but I have tons of school work but I'm hoping I will have it up and running by Thursday AM, in time for my guests to enjoy it.
-
Those LEDs take up less electricity than all those times your wife leaves lights on in an empty room.
What are you doing in grad school?
-
Those LEDs take up less electricity than all those times your wife leaves lights on in an empty room.
What are you doing in grad school?
That's what made it funny- the LEDS are cheap to power. She was referring to the brightness of Clark's lights. Fun fact; my wife has ancestors named Griswold.
(http://jolimit.com/p/2015/11/christmas-vacation-lights-qcb7zxv6.gif)
I'm getting a Masters in Business Administration. The courses aren't hard, just super time-consuming. They like to make you work to make the degree more master-y.
Anyway- build progress:
I have the CP all wired up in a test layout. I'm using an IPac2 for P1, P2 and trackball, and two Xinmao controller boards for P3 &P4. Why? I had the IPac2 and two Xinmao controller boards, so I'm going to see if it will work without buying an IPac4.
Problem 1- One of my T-Nuts broke loose when I was installing the Joystick for P4. Now I have a lumpy spot under the graphic. I've made peace with it. Lesson: don't use T-Nuts, use embeddable screw nuts, like the ones that come with the Ultimarc Trackball. I've seen them at the hardware store.
Problem 2- The Krylon Satin spray paint I used didn't give me an even coverage, even after 6 coats. It's blotchy as hell; most certainly operator error. I will have to clean up the paint, either by applying side graphics, rolling on paint or applying laminate. Lesson: use a medium you're familiar with. My original plan was to use laminate but I didn't want to deal with the work. Silly me.
-
Ah cool, friend of mine got his MBA from UH recently. Very impressive school building. Can't speak to the other programs in town.
:cheers:
-
Up and running for some turkey day fun:
(https://i.imgur.com/ylswxrC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RzGsMz3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/aXGSERW.jpg)
I picked up this 43" HDTV from Target the other day for $160. Had the mount already.
I have a few things left: surround sound, clean up wiring.
Ah cool, friend of mine got his MBA from UH recently. Very impressive school building. Can't speak to the other programs in town.
:cheers:
Taking it at UH-CL. I know UH has a better program but this one is pretty good so far.
-
Got the secondary embedded monitor going with HyperMarquee this weekend. These pics are just a taste of what the program can do- you can layer images, video, text, and even high score info for each game. The marquee scrolls through the Hyperspin wheel and displays info for each game.
These pics show it pulling the Hyperspin wheel images.
(https://i.imgur.com/YjBwCnZ.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/gc3xir3.jpg)
HyperMarquee Download Here (http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/files/file/7397-hypermarquee/)
Setup & Config thread here (http://www.hyperspin-fe.com/topic/9012-hypermarquee-045/) SevenSeal is AWESOME at helping set up this HS Addon.
-
Love the CP. I'm in the process of building my first arcade cab and you have me rethinking my CP. Maybe I should add a 6inch screen to mine as I was looking for a cool, clean way to display game info.
Can the screen also display controls for whatever game your in? Also, what screen are you using?
-
Love the CP. I'm in the process of building my first arcade cab and you have me rethinking my CP. Maybe I should add a 6inch screen to mine as I was looking for a cool, clean way to display game info.
Can the screen also display controls for whatever game your in? Also, what screen are you using?
Thanks! I love the CP too!
Screen: It's a 12-inch screen from a dead Lenovo laptop. You can get controller boards for almost any old laptop screen on ebay or amazon. Beware, most ship from China, so you'll be waiting a few weeks. I did find a seller on Amazon that was in the states and got my controller board within a week.
You can have MameMarquee display ANY text file that corresponds to the rom name, and you can layer several different images, as well as videos and HitoText high scores. You can do custom text, game info in text...tons of stuff and the add-on is under active development so i know more is coming down the pipe.
EmuMovies has tons of art and this site does as well: http://www.progettosnaps.net/marquees/ (http://www.progettosnaps.net/marquees/)
The secondary monitor certainly isn't needed but it is a nice wow factor.
-
Been out of the game for awhile, where do you get those sweet joysticks?
-
Been out of the game for awhile, where do you get those sweet joysticks?
GameRoomSolutions (https://gameroomsolutions.com/shop/2-player-led-arcade-control-panel-bundle-kit/)
-
Please don't angle your players 3 and 4 joysticks! :(
Noted- I'll change this. Thanks!!! ;D
Why wouldnt you angle the joysticks? It would be weird to play with controls that arent orientated to the way the player is facing
-
Please don't angle your players 3 and 4 joysticks! :(
Noted- I'll change this. Thanks!!! ;D
Why wouldnt you angle the joysticks? It would be weird to play with controls that arent orientated to the way the player is facing
No. The 4 player gods will smite. All joysticks should be oriented the same. Though player 3 and 4 will be at a slight angle it only makes sense for them to move the stick in line with the monitor.
-
Please don't angle your players 3 and 4 joysticks! :(
Noted- I'll change this. Thanks!!! ;D
Why wouldnt you angle the joysticks? It would be weird to play with controls that arent orientated to the way the player is facing
You would think that... Until you actually try it. Don't angle.
-
This is what Scott just posted in the Simpsons thread.
Ive got a question about the joysticks orientation... Why arent they orientated parallel to the player, instead of parallel to the front and back?
From the FAQ:
(wiki is still down, but here's a link to a copy on the Internet Wayback Machine (https://web.archive.org/web/20160809113045/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ))
Orientation
It is important to note that joysticks should always be mounted parallel to the screen since it is intuitive for a player to move the joystick in relation to the action on the screen. This might seem not obvious in 4-player designs, but experience has proved that this holds true even if the player is standing diagonal towards the screen. Therefore it is advised not to angle joysticks for players 3 and 4. P3, P1, and P2 joysticks are shown parallel, while P4 joystick is shown angled.
(https://web.archive.org/web/20150625124703im_/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/images/thumb/d/da/StraightAndAngledSticks.jpg/800px-StraightAndAngledSticks.jpg)
Scott
-
Hi Xerobull I need the PSD you created for your Pedestal Xero. You say I'll happily post the PSD files when I have a finished product. Cant you provide me the PSD please. :)
-
Hi Xerobull I need the PSD you created for your Pedestal Xero. You say I'll happily post the PSD files when I have a finished product. Cant you provide me the PSD please. :)
Hey, I'm back after a long hiatus- if you still need this please PM me. The file is massive at 400mb.
On another front, I upgraded the monitor on this to a 55" as it was left over from a TV upgrade in another room. I'm going to upgrade the buttons and sticks to better quality RGB LED (probably Ultimarc)...going to use these sticks and buttons to refurbish the Arcade1up cabs I picked up on discount. Also doing work updating Hyperspin with new systems and romsets. I'll post pics and a video soon.
-
Hi Xerobull I need the PSD you created for your Pedestal Xero. You say I'll happily post the PSD files when I have a finished product. Cant you provide me the PSD please. :)
Hey, I'm back after a long hiatus- if you still need this please PM me. The file is massive at 400mb.
On another front, I upgraded the monitor on this to a 55" as it was left over from a TV upgrade in another room. I'm going to upgrade the buttons and sticks to better quality RGB LED (probably Ultimarc)...going to use these sticks and buttons to refurbish the Arcade1up cabs I picked up on discount. Also doing work updating Hyperspin with new systems and romsets. I'll post pics and a video soon.
Hi can you share the psd, I am new on this, and want to build my own pedestal, try to sent you a pm but it didnt work
Regards
-
Added a download to the PSD (Photoshop) file to the original post. LINK (https://mega.nz/#!bVsRQAiT!2rpmqb3nCerf74OwWT29can4X31ItpDT7Cdn3d1LI50)to Control Panel PSD (Photoshop) File
Added a picture of the dimensions of the pedestal portion to the original post. I recall that the cp case was a little less deep than I anticipated but it still fit on the base.
I had someone ask me about the embedded monitor. For the embedded monitor, I re-purposed a small laptop monitor with an LCD Controller board. THESE ARE MONITOR SPECIFIC. Ask the seller if it is compatible with your monitor.
Here's the one i purchased on eBay (https://www.ebay.com/itm/M-NT68676-2-LCD-LED-Controller-Board-HDMI-DVI-VGA-Audio-For-LVDS-Display-Screen-/161320408901?_trksid=p2349526.m4383.l10137.c10&nordt=true&rt=nc&orig_cvip=true)
Here's another one on Amazon (https://www.amazon.com/Controller-HSD190MEN4-M170EN06-1280x1024-30Pins/dp/B06X9NJ2NR/ref=as_li_ss_tl?ie=UTF8&qid=1538351320&sr=8-5&keywords=M170EG01&linkCode=sl1&tag=e074d-20&linkId=02250be1f490896970f88c35081d6da8&language=en_US)
(I also put this in the first post)
To add the embedded monitor, I cut out the size of the monitor then routed out a space for the plexiglass. I'll add a pic of the underside of the monitor when I get home.
-
Got my Ultimarc RGB Buttons, new control boards and sticks in yesterday. Not only was Andy @ Ultimarc great with support and questions, they ship AMAZINGLY fast from London. It left Tuesday AM (American Central Time) and hit my door in Texas Wednesday afternoon. I couldn't believe it- I've traveled to London and it was barely faster to go in person. THANKS, Ultimarc!
I'll post pics of the new setup when it's done and a full review of the buttons, etc.
-
Great looking build, kids are obviously enjoying the pedestal, has to make it all worth while..
https://www.menards.com/main/electrical/wall-plates/legrand-reg-in-wall-dual-cable-access-kit/ht2004whv1/p-1444451177220-c-1489667504662.htm?tid=-4570085088722867351&ipos=2 (https://www.menards.com/main/electrical/wall-plates/legrand-reg-in-wall-dual-cable-access-kit/ht2004whv1/p-1444451177220-c-1489667504662.htm?tid=-4570085088722867351&ipos=2)
that is what I used to hide the cables for the monitor behind the wall, in case you wanted to do that..
- Zeosstud
Rodney Butler
-
Got my Ultimarc RGB LED leaf buttons in as well as two iPac Ultimates, and wired it up this weekend. I'm waiting on the RGB joystick knobs to come back into stock so I can order as well. Once I get everything installed, I will run rocketblinky to set the RGB sequences. I'm also 'rebuilding' Hyperspin.
Great looking build, kids are obviously enjoying the pedestal, has to make it all worth while..
https://www.menards.com/main/electrical/wall-plates/legrand-reg-in-wall-dual-cable-access-kit/ht2004whv1/p-1444451177220-c-1489667504662.htm?tid=-4570085088722867351&ipos=2 (https://www.menards.com/main/electrical/wall-plates/legrand-reg-in-wall-dual-cable-access-kit/ht2004whv1/p-1444451177220-c-1489667504662.htm?tid=-4570085088722867351&ipos=2)
that is what I used to hide the cables for the monitor behind the wall, in case you wanted to do that..
- Zeosstud
Rodney Butler
Thanks, Z- I have a similar solution on order from Monoprice. I've moved everything into my garage, which I've converted into a 'fam-cave'/gym. I insulated and sealed the doors and added a split unit AC. Pics will be posted when I'm further along.
-
I look forward to seeing your new setup!!