The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: cappadonna on March 12, 2009, 09:47:11 pm
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Hello all,
Just wanted to post some pics of my xbox 360 wireless arcade joysticks. The first one consists of a sanwa joystick and happ pushbuttons. It plays very nice with Street Fighter IV ;D. The second one is incomplete but will consist of the same sanwa stick and happ buttons. Button colors will be green and black. I will upload more pics when finished. I hope you enjoy and please ask questions and leave comments. Thanks
(http://i733.photobucket.com/albums/ww331/piemaster77/AFRO.jpg)
(http://i733.photobucket.com/albums/ww331/piemaster77/RYU.jpg)
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Do you have any pics from underneath? What type of wood did you use? How did you achieve a flat top with no screws showing (for both the joystick and to hold down the plexi)?
They are nice! :cheers:
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looking good...more pics please!!!
javeryh..i dont know how he did it, but you can mount the joysticks from the bottom, either using screws, countersunk bolts (underneath the plexi) or use threaded inserts so that there are no screws showing for the joysticks. the buttons act as large plastic bolts, so they hold the plexi in place.
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Mounting JLFs with no bolts showing is easy, Franco just did a thread on it in the woodworking section. In fact if you can see the bolts on a wood case they probly mounted the JLF wrong. Also this is my first time to see Happ concaves and JLFs on the same stick. ;D
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Hey guys. Thanks for the questions and input. I prefer to use poplar for the wood box. It is very lightweight and has unpredictable staining patterns. Some people like this, some don't. I will post some more pics later. I mount the sticks using threaded sleeves. You can put them between the graphic and sheeting, then attach screw through the bottom. I got the buttons in today for the ryu stick. I also have a third stick in the works. Well it was actually my first one.
As far as using sanwa with happ..........Sanwa stuff is really hard to get right now and shipping is expensive :'( I do have one stick on the backburner now that is all sanwa). I have also switched to happ comp. buttons. They are slightly convex and operate a litter smoother. Everyone seems to think that sanwa is the :timebomb: but let me put it to you this way. If you play arcades in Japan on a regular basis you will be comfortable with sanwa. If you primarily game in the US, then you are use to happ. Don't get me wrong. I do like sanwa stuff. It does however take some getting use to and deep pockets.
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Very nice :cheers:
I would like some 'under the hood' pictures too if possible. I have a couple of wireless 360 pads to wire up soon and I'm trying to get some ideas together.
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Here are a few more pics to look at. First one is the inside of the Afro stick. I know that project boxes can be used to conceal the controller but they take up way too much space. I have managed to get these sticks down to a nice size and I want to keep them that way. I would have to add 2" to all sided to fit a project box. BTW, soldering the wireless connect switch is a BEEYATCH. Good Luck.
(http://i733.photobucket.com/albums/ww331/piemaster77/Afro2.jpg)
Here is the Ryu stick with buttons. I think I'm going to move away from the P1 start button. Looks a little to arcadish, maybe a solid color. What do you think. This stick will probably end up being wired just so I can use up some spare controllers.
(http://i733.photobucket.com/albums/ww331/piemaster77/Ryu2.jpg)
This is the akuma stick I have been working on. This was my first one. It is wired but does have independant turbo fire for each button ;D. I will be using either red/black or red/white buttons.
(http://i733.photobucket.com/albums/ww331/piemaster77/Akuma.jpg)
As far as how the plexi is mounted...the outer frame was notched with a table saw. This holds the graphic and glass in place. Except for the akuma stick. See the difference.
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I'm new to the fighter scene, Never really played them in the arcade, but the new Streetfighter for 360 looks so good
I'm thinking of building a couple Sticks, but....
I have a couple of questions
I pretty sure they're 8 ways
I see a circular restrictor there, is that standard or do they normally use an 8 way(square) restrictor?
Why 8 buttons, what are the extra two for?
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Good ?'s bender. Yes, they are 8 ways. This particular restrictor just reduces the throw of the stick. Sanwa's have a VERY LONG THROW. The square 8 way restrictor you speak of does the same thing. SF IV in the arcade uses 8 buttons. The last 2 are RT and LT. When you press the fourth button it is the same as pressing the 3 punch or 3 kick buttons simultaneously. Some people seem to believe you cannot connect the trigger buttons because they are analog. This is not true. They connect just as easy as the others do.
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how tall are your sticks? Just curious because I've had to make my happ ones taller than I'd like.
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Height on these boxes are just under 3 inches. If you use happ buttons and sticks you will not be able to get the box much lower than that. The comp. joys from happ have the shortest bases (2.09"). The box I have set aside for sanwa sticks and buttons should have a height of only 1 3/4" to 2". Sanwa controls have a smaller footprint. However, it doesn't look like there will be and sanwa stuff until early/mid April :'(
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yep. Im having to refund a couple of my customers and cancel orders because of the delay times. Its not a huge deal. Happ parts are still in good supply...and even though they are larger...I think I prefer them to Sanwa.
I'll have to try that restrictor plate on the Happ stick though. I didnt even know you could do that.
*EDIT
Scratch that last comment....I see now thats a sanwa stick. I didn't even notice the metal mounting plate till just now.
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Wow! LizardLick is closed till april ???
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yep.
tis sad. that just means there's an ass of custom sticks out their being built because of SFIV.
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If anyone is interested in one of these, let me know. I need to order more parts.
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yep.
tis sad. that just means there's an ass of custom sticks out their being built because of SFIV.
that's just what I was thinking
good boon for lizard lick though, which in the long run is good for the community
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good boon for lizard lick though, which in the long run is good for the community
Could be bad and good, the kids whose orders got delayed are throwing fits and bad mouthing LL to anyone who will listen. Even after LL refunded their money. :dunno
And I'll disagree cappa, I grew up playing in American arcades and I certainly don't prefer Happ controls. ;D
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Yea, don't bad mouth lizard lick. Well, not yet anyway. Owner took my phone call and was very informative and explained my order situation. I still havn't received my order yet but I knew it would be a while when I ordered. Their site plainly tells you this.
Oh, and on the happ controls.....I said it is what you are used to, not prefer. Different smokes for different smokers. :cheers:
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good boon for lizard lick though, which in the long run is good for the community
Could be bad and good, the kids whose orders got delayed are throwing fits and bad mouthing LL to anyone who will listen. Even after LL refunded their money. :dunno
And I'll disagree cappa, I grew up playing in American arcades and I certainly don't prefer Happ controls. ;D
That is a real shame
I've had nothing but great experiences with LL
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Yeah both Chad from LL and Per from http://www.akihabarashop.jp/ are great guys to deal with and both are being hammered with orders from SFIV. :applaud:
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Hey cappadonna,
Nice sticks. I was wondering, do you have any pics of the trigger wiring? (without resistors) I dont need the analogue functions, just the signal/no signal option. Thanks for the inspiration.
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Here you go vox. http://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/pcb_diagrams/360_diagram7.jpg
That's better than any pic I can take. Oh, and don't thank me. I was inspired by many others. Check out brydo.org for some kick --I'm attempting to get by the auto-censor and should be beaten after I re-read the rules-- sticks. 8)
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Oops! Think I've posted in the wrong place. I was looking for the trigger wiring for a mad catz wired pad (late model)
I checked out your comment to HarumaN regarding the triggers, and you mentioned a way of hacking without resistors. I've dropped on so many sites in the past few days, I thought you were talking about the Mad Catz pad. Anyway, thanks for your time, I'll keep looking for the answer!
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Oops! Think I've posted in the wrong place. I was looking for the trigger wiring for a mad catz wired pad (late model)
I checked out your comment to HarumaN regarding the triggers, and you mentioned a way of hacking without resistors. I've dropped on so many sites in the past few days, I thought you were talking about the Mad Catz pad. Anyway, thanks for your time, I'll keep looking for the answer!
On some pads you can leave the pots intact and set to neutral instead of using resistors. The most current PCB I've seen does not allow this.
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Finished another stick. This one did end up wired (Trying to use up all my controllers). It does have turbo function for all buttons though. Good for Blanka, E Honda & Chun Li. I also swapped the stick in my Afro wireless controller. I will be honest (my opinion), I have played several rounds with the Sanwa stick (Afro) and a Happ comp (akuma). Hands down, the Happ controler is more precise. I have been and avid SF player for years. I had absolutely no trouble pulling off ultras and supers with the Happ. I cannot say the same for the Sanwa. Again, that is my opinion. I don't want to start a Sanwa vs. Happ war. Anyway, here they are.
This is the finished Ryu Stick. SOLD :applaud:
(http://i733.photobucket.com/albums/ww331/piemaster77/RyuStick2.jpg)
This was actually the first one I built. That's why you can see the screw posts. I have switched to comp. buttons now.
(http://i733.photobucket.com/albums/ww331/piemaster77/AkumaStick2.jpg)
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Thanks for showing the pics, and nice work. I've just started on my first stick, but I'm also stuck in the vortex of waiting for parts. I just switched my order to Happ from Sanwa parts, mainly because of the familiarity thing (and the fact that JLF sticks are pretty much sold out all over the place).
I saw that the sticks you made are just under 3", but could you share the rest of the dimensions? Having not done this before, I'm a little nervous about building a case that doesn't leave enough room for everything I need to cram in there. I plan to do the full 8-button layout similar to what you've done.
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Great looking sticks! I have a couple of questions. What thickness is the top panel on those and how do recess those buttons on the sides?
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Sorry, been away for a bit. To SG, The deminsions I currently use are 12"W x 9"L x 3"H. I will admit, this leaves a tight space inside. However, If everything is positioned correctly everything fits fine. I do not suggest using terminal blocks with this size. I use QuckD's
on the microswitches to adjust for that.
To odysseyroc, the panel thickness is 3/8" thick (don't fret, very sturdy). To counter-sink the holes I use Forstner bits. Larger one first, then 1 1/8 for button hole.
Here are a couple more sticks. All of these are wireless.
I know, ditch the red stick :banghead:
(http://i733.photobucket.com/albums/ww331/piemaster77/KenStick.jpg)
(http://i733.photobucket.com/albums/ww331/piemaster77/KenStick2.jpg)
Working on this one now. No longer placing start button on face of controller. Moved to back with other admins.
(http://i733.photobucket.com/albums/ww331/piemaster77/Ken2Stick.jpg)
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My second Ken stick is almost finished. Have to connect the wireless pcb and add battery pack.
(http://i733.photobucket.com/albums/ww331/piemaster77/Ken2Stick2.jpg)
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Moved to buy/sell/trade.