The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: Santoro on September 29, 2007, 07:14:45 pm
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Edit - March 2010
I am sharing the Arcade Replay Slim LCD Cabinet Sketchup model with a few Lawyerly caveats.
- If you use the model please credit me in project announcements and webpages about the project
- You may not, under any circumstances, sell the sketchup model
- Let me know in a PM or in this thread if you use them as the basis for a project, only for the sake of my curiosity.
- If you sell cabinets substantially based on it and you appreciate my contribution you should kick me back a point or two of the profit. It's the honor system, I am not going to lawyer up and come get you or anything. PM me for a PayPal address.
- These are not precise nor complete plans. The model is intended to give you rough dimensions only. It is up to you to double check everything you do and make sure it makes sense. You need to be sure the machine is safe, balanced, etc. I am not responsible for any bad things resulting from the use of these plans.
- Other than answering a question here or there in this thread, I don't plan on supporting people trying to recreate it. BYOAC search is your friend.
If you agree to all this, you may download the sketchup model >>>> here (http://bit.ly/Xk7GhG)<<<<<
Credit goes to Xylosesame for creating the Sketchup models for the buttons, spinner, trackball, Joysticks, and coin door.
The model has evolved. here is the final design:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144305;image)
Original Post:
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I have finished my rough plans for a new cab to replace Mamenation, (http://www.mamenation.com) which I will probably sell locally. I have borrowed heavily from Kneivel's Woody Design, which set the bar for the rest of us.
My goals and improvements over Mamenation are:
Wife-friendly design, without being too furniture-like
When turned on, there will be sufficient 'arcade bling' to overcome the wood design. More on that later. (not on mockup yet)
Keyboard Drawer
Easily accessible DVD drive (not on mockup yet)
External USB ports (not on mockup yet)
Small size so as not to portude too far into the room.
Smaller but still comfortable CP. I will be doing something similar to my "Classic Gamer" CP (http://images.santoro.com/cpperspective.jpg) from last year. I am very happy with that design.
LEDWiz
Jukebox, n64 Emulation
Light Gun
It's going to take a while to complete because I am busy, but it probably won't take as long as the Mission Control cab. ;D
Edit - CP layout will be slightly different in terms of layout and art. This is the only CP art I had to use for the mockup.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=85434;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=85438;image)
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How is it going to take tokens? ;D
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LOL.
Stoll looking for a suitable Sketchup coin door model. Otherwise I need to do it myself and that won't be pretty.
Edit: I will need to build/improvise a smaller metal box. I have to hear that metal 'klink' sound when I drop tokens into a machine. (Cue the Hogan's Heroes jokes.)
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Some more details, I am undecided on which LCD I will use. I am leaning toward an LCD TV in the 32" range (ouch$) but am not sure. It's a shame to waste space, but the 20-inchers out there are pretty small after using a D9200 for so many years. I am going to do some tests on my home 32" and 19" LCDs to see if I can live with the smaller.
I will probably use Wilsonart Laminate - I like this one (the sample I have is a much richer color than the pic has):
(http://samples.wilsonartcontract.com/images/PRODUCT/large/316.jpg)
I was hoping for some opinions on the black center. It was intended to reduce the furniture feel a bit, and make it so that when you are standing in front of it you see 'authentic black.' I like the way it looks but I can see how it might elicit a "WTF" reaction from some.
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LOL.
Stoll looking for a suitable Sketchup coin door model. Otherwise I need to do it myself and that won't be pretty.
Edit: I will need to build/improvise a smaller metal box. I have to hear that metal 'klink' sound when I drop tokens into a machine. (Cue the Hogan's Heroes jokes.)
Hey, Santoro, I wasn't planning on uploading my over/under coin door model as it is very (and I mean very) rough, but I went ahead and dumped it in my collection. It's scale, based on a Happ dual; feel free to use and abuse as you see fit.
http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/search?uq=12848648007109192528 (http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/search?uq=12848648007109192528)
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I like the machine design but I think you need to bring the rear up a little and match the angles around the bezel area. ATM it looks a bit messy up top.
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i like it!
nice marquee art
love the short depth
good to see more sketchup action on your end as well!!! (check my project thread)
good luck with it
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Thanks guys, I'll play around with the angles. I originally had the underside of the marquee level with the ground, I must have dragged a point somewhere along the line and not noticed. :-[
Artifact, you motivated me to learn Sketchup. I am still not adept at it and it is slow going, but I'll get there.
XyloSesame - thanks! I'll use it on the next iteration.
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Forgot to mention, I got some of my 'goodies' in the mail today.
Novamatrix LED Marquee Light
Micro-Leaf switches
Turbo Twist 2 Spinner
2 Ultimate 360s
This stuff always motivates me to get building!
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I have a question that's kinda related to this project. Is there a way to hook an actual arcade PCB to an LCD PC monitor?
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Ack, that's way outside my expertise... the monitor forum probably has the answer. I think there is some sort of Jamma adapter..
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Hey, Santoro, I wasn't planning on uploading my over/under coin door model as it is very (and I mean very) rough, but I went ahead and dumped it in my collection. It's scale, based on a Happ dual; feel free to use and abuse as you see fit.
Hey I just noticed - I am already using modified versions of your buttons, trackball and joysticks. Nice work, and thanks again!
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I have a question that's kinda related to this project. Is there a way to hook an actual arcade PCB to an LCD PC monitor?
Yes, you can buy a CGA to VGA adaptor.
You run the RGB and sync from your JAMMA loom into the adapter and it converts it to VGA. Plug in your LCD and GO!
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Hey, Santoro, I wasn't planning on uploading my over/under coin door model as it is very (and I mean very) rough, but I went ahead and dumped it in my collection. It's scale, based on a Happ dual; feel free to use and abuse as you see fit.
Hey I just noticed - I am already using modified versions of your buttons, trackball and joysticks. Nice work, and thanks again!
NP, hope they help... I've updated the coin door (http://sketchup.google.com/3dwarehouse/details?mid=6c1173844346904c06dde090b695257), and hope to add a TT2 soon.
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I have tweaked the model quite a bit. I also added the Coin Door, DVD and USB port. The angles are a little better up top now. I am not trying to completely imitate the 'Woody' cab - I am going for a slighty more retro-shape on the top.
The entire speaker panel above the glass will be black speaker cloth.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=86537;image)
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I am going to be working backwards from what I usually do - I am going to get the PC all configured in advance. The parts came today; here's what I am putting together
AMD Athlon A64 X2 3800
Foxconn Mobo with integrated Geforce 6150 Video, gigabit LAN
1 GB RAM
120 GB PATA Hard disk
I am still working on the details of the door on the bottom. I saw the "Solocade" and I really like the "roll-out" concept:
(http://solocade.googlepages.com/061.jpg)
So I may do something similar, I am not sure yet. Here is what I was thinking of:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=86541;image)
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I think you should copy the Solocade profile more. Being just a bit chunkier makes it look much better to me... I understand most people are building these due to space constraints though.
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It doesn't look like there is room on that drawer for the coin-mechs and coin box. I would think that if anybody had a machine set up to work with tokens it would be you. Are you using a small form factor PC to allow room for the coin requirements?
Looking good. I know that you said you've been reworking the top a bit, but it seems like maybe it's still a little top heavy looking. I'm not saying physically top heavy, but visually. I wonder if the angle on the top to the back were even deeper would it look more proportionate. OR, and I realize this may compromise the art and not be worth sacrifice, but what if you made the marquee a little shorter, it would do a lot to make the top look more slim like the rest of the camera.
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I know what you are saying, and I can see it too. It is 'bigger' on purpose - I am trying to make the entire cab look 'bigger than a slim LCD cab." While I greatly appreciate the balance and design quality of the woody cab, it looks a bit too 'skinny' on the top for my tastes. I never played cabs that looked that sleek.
I am still playing a bit. I may keep the top as it is, I am not sure. Or I may be able to shave an inch or two off and mainain the efect I want.
It doesn't look like there is room on that drawer for the coin-mechs and coin box.
Yup. I am already planning on building a custom, shallow token box. The PC mobo is going to be a micro-ATX mounted sideways in the drawer. You can see it - it's the green square. Probably not exactly to scale at this point though.
Keep the feedback coming though, thanks.
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Yup. I am already planning on building a custom, shallow token box. The PC mobo is going to be a micro-ATX mounted sideways in the drawer. You can see it - it's the green square. Probably not exactly to scale at this point though.
That's definitely the important part. :cheers:
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I think you should copy the Solocade profile more. Being just a bit chunkier makes it look much better to me... I understand most people are building these due to space constraints though.
You got me thinking a little here - I am wondering if the problem is that the bulkier top is not stylisticly consistient with the angled bottom. I am going to try a version without the angle.
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I'd be concerned with trying to make the inside turn with the t-molding. See the faint red circle in the crop below.
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I am not so hot in Sketchup yet, I have been meaing to learn to do curves.
I want to see what it would look like with all the angles having small-raduis curves. Maybe I'll try to figure that out tonight as well.
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I am getting much, much closer to the look on top I was trying for from the start. I still need to lower the CP a smidge and clean things up, but the general shape is just what I wanted. Learning Arcs in sketchup helped a lot. :)
Much to the dismay of some asshats I know, I am going to use Laminate. I have never been very good at finishing, and my kids are brutal on cabs. Laminate was the natural choice.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87449)
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I am getting much, much closer to the look on top I was trying for from the start. I still need to lower the CP a smidge and clean things up, but the general shape is just what I wanted. Learning Arcs in sketchup helped a lot. :)
Much to the dismay of some asshats I know, I am going to use Laminate. I have never been very good at finishing, and my kids are brutal on cabs. Laminate was the natural choice.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87449)
Love it. It's well balanced.
As far as the laminate... I don't have a problem with it. I used it on a cabinet, and I have a couple more 4x8 sheets ready to go on the next project. I only use black though - you going with some wood grain?
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That new shape looks great. Nice job reworking it. When laminate gets done right it is a really nice finish for a cab, good choice if you ask me.
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I like your new top design. The change is slight, but it looks better proportioned.
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OK, final design here. (edit: except I need to fix the shelf thickness.) Construction starts this weekend.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87963)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87965)
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Note that the CP is not finalized yet.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87967)
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That's a pretty nice design Santoro!
I like the rolling drawer with the keyboard shelf.
Can't wait to see more pics!
Jay :cheers:
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That's really nice looking. Make sure you take plenty of pics when you build the pull out computer shelf/coin door panel. I'd love to incorporate something like that in mine...
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Stylish laminate is ok ;D
(Some people manage to screw it up badly though, making things only looking cheaper :-))
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No fair starting on the cabinet until our tokens are ready! I don't want to hear any "I've rec'd the tokens from the mint, but all my time is being spend making sawdust" comments in the future.
;D
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Wow, great design pics Santoro! So is this finished yet?
How about now? ;)
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Bumping and re-starting my on-hold project. We start cutting wood tomorrow; here is the final design.
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:applaud:
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Hey - wood had been cut.. made some good progress today.
Sides Done:
(https://arcadereplay.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/6/2020/10/p1010467.jpg)
In the process of laminating the visible parts on the inside. Bottoms yet to be done.
(https://arcadereplay.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/6/2020/10/p1010474.jpg)
http://Look how slim this is going to be compared to my second machine!!
(https://arcadereplay.com/wp-content/uploads/sites/6/2020/10/p1010463.jpg)
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That laminate looks awesome. Where'd you get it?
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It's special order Wilsonart from Lowes. I will try to find the number for you.
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It's special order Wilsonart from Lowes. I will try to find the number for you.
How much was it? I ordered some black laminate from Home Depot and it was $42 for a 24"x96" strip! If Lowe's is cheaper it might be worth the extra 5 minutes in the car next time... It looks great by the way - makes me wish I didn't stain my slim upright...
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OK I found the receipt for when I bought the laminate last year. It is Wilsonart Victorian Mahogany, # 7583-58. It wasn't cheap - about $50 for a 4'x8' sheet.
Also, I have put up a site to document the progress. http://arcadereplay.santoro.com/ (http://arcadereplay.santoro.com/)
edit: corrected product number
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No progress this weekend due to family obligations. I was able to update the blog a little with some details on my ideas for how I might 'bling' this thing out a bit.
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Nice to see some progress Santoro!
Love the design, I think im going to go for a slim for my next upright.
I had a look at your blog and saw what you are intending to do with the cold cathodes. If I was you I would use strips of very bright red LEDs instead. That way you could control them with your LED Wiz to give a pulsing/throbbing effect during the attract mode etc. I thought it may have been possible to make a throbbing/pulsing affect with cold cathodes but I have since been informed that it isnt a good idea to modulate the inverters by changing the output intensity. Anyway, just a thought. Looking forward to seeing some more :)
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Looking good. I am curious, if you bought 4'x8' sheets of laminate, why are you deciding to fight with a seam in the middle of the cab? Was the grain on the laminate running the wrong way?
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Looking good. I am curious, if you bought 4'x8' sheets of laminate, why are you deciding to fight with a seam in the middle of the cab? Was the grain on the laminate running the wrong way?
if you mean the bits that are half laminated, they are the insides as i understand it.
hi brian not seen you here in a while
:cheers:
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Yes, those are the insides. Very little of that laminate will be visible.
I will have a look at LED strips Franco. If they are bright and deep enough it would be pretty cool to work them into the LED-WIZ flashing effects. Good idea.
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Looking good. I am curious, if you bought 4'x8' sheets of laminate, why are you deciding to fight with a seam in the middle of the cab? Was the grain on the laminate running the wrong way?
if you mean the bits that are half laminated, they are the insides as i understand it.
hi brian not seen you here in a while
:cheers:
DUH. Makes perfect sense that way. Carry on.
@Polaris, yeah, when I don't feel like I'm getting to do much on my projects I tend to stray, I've been poking around a bit lately and I'll be getting the artwork for "The Reactivator" printed soon, so I'll have to update my thread. I also loose motivation when I try to look through all the unread threads that I've missed. I have like 120 pages on my "view all unread topics" page. When I was a regular I'd keep up with it and now I can't bring myself to just mark them all as read and start fresh. I'm trying to figure out a way to whittle away the ones that I'm not interested in and just hit the highlights, but there is no easy way to mark stuff as read without opening them all.
@Santoro
You sir are part of the reason I'm lurking around these parts again. It's great to see another set of tokens in the works, and I enjoy seeing familiar projects being continued.
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Coming along. I gave up on using biscuits - the parts were too far apart to make it worth dealing with.
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more
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.
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8)
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:applaud: :notworthy: :applaud: :notworthy: :applaud:
Words do not need to be spoken!
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Very nice profile, I'm contemplating doing a slim cab too or else a cocktail cabinet as I already have a fullsize standup. Good luck with the build!
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The more I look at the design the more I think I need to round out the Control Panel a little bit for consistency.
I am horrible at curves in sketchup so I may plan it the old fashioned-way - with a cardboard mockup. I am not sure.
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It's special order Wilsonart from Lowes. I will try to find the number for you.
When I tried Home Depot and Lowes, they didn't have it and couldn't get it. (ie: No special orders. Only what they sell).
So I'm still looking.
Darren
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Sorry to hear that, custom orders must be an east coast thing or something. *shrug*
I made a little progress this weekend.
(To avoid rattles and enhance the bass response I always attach my sub woofers firmly to the cabinet. Because the bottom rolls out on this cabinet, I had no firm floor for the sub to be mounted to so I had to get creative. The sub woofer is mounted directly to the inside wall - I screwed right into it from the outside of the cabinet. These countersunk screws will be laminated over and won’t be seen.)
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YYAAAWWWNNN! Streeetch...
smack smack
So, umm, whats up doc?
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Work's busy forcing me to work late a lot, famly life is insane, it's 4 degrees out, and the machine is sitting in my garage in the exact state it is in the last pics.
I start work the 2nd warm day I get, with the first set aside to clean the garage.
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I was able to do some work on the cabinet finally.
I created the speaker panel. The hole is a little rough (my 11 year old son cut it out) .... but it will be painted black and covered by a black cloth grille.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=118599;image)
I also laminated the sides. For me this is always the most rewarding part... because it feels 'almost done' with the sides finished. Some will note that I didn't cut the T-molding slot yet, this is on purpose. I tend to mistakenly hit the edges of the cab and damage the slots so I save it for the latest time possible.
So far I am thrilled about how it's coming out... It is looking exactly like the sketchup plans.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=118607;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=118605;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=118601;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=118603;image)
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HOLY COW! :notworthy: :applaud:
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AWESOME. Do you know how you are goig to handle the lamination with respect to your CP? It looks like you are going for art on top but if you have to laminate the box, how are you going to deal with the cross-section of the laminate showing? Or are you planning to mitre the cuts somehow? Not that anyone would ever notice if you just laminated the sides of the box first and the front panel last so the cross-sections were on the sides and pretty much out of visible range...
I'm starting to wish I went the lamination route instead of trying to stain and finish mine. I've got 2 coats of poly on there and I need at least 3 or 4 more with lots of fine sanding in between to get it looking how I want it to. Plus, my CP box isn't as accurate as I'd like it to be but I'm not cutting it a third time (I mitred every cut on the tablesaw).
Also, what day did you possibly get to work outside??? I live in Westfield and it has been freezing lately. :cheers:
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Just out of curiosity, what is the depth of the base of the cab? Mine is like 450mm, was wondering if it was enough.
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Looking :afro:
I do love the profile, seriously. There is nothing I would change about it.
You have got to love the laminate. Every project I see with laminate looks the nuts. I'm dying to play with some but I think it will be a long time until I build a project where I can use some.
In the mean time i'll bask in the glory of your cabs :)
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Also, what day did you possibly get to work outside??? I live in Westfield and it has been freezing lately. :cheers:
Westfield, crap that's 20 mins away.. when it's done come over for a beer play and a few games!
I worked on Saturday evening, it was about 42 out. I knew I was taking a risk that the laminate cement might not work great, but the label said something like "best results when used above 60 degrees," not "must be used above 60." I was going stir-crazy from being in the house for so long and took a shot and it was fine. It is on there really tight.
The CP is still in the design stage, what I have on the sketchup plan is not necessarily the final design. I may so something like my Mamenation CP with a not-so-square design:
(http://sites.santoro.com/mamenation/files/2008/05/cp-trans.gif)
On that panel I used PartsExpress black speaker vinyl and unless you touched it, you wouldn't know it wasn't laminate. Stay tuned, I will post more as I get my CP plans firmed up.
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theatitalian asked a few questions in PM, I will answer them here so everyone can benefit..
I was wondering what was the depth size of your base?
The cabinet depth at the bottom is 18 1/2"
I was also wondering what was the size of your CP shelf (the part that supports the CP).
7 1/4"
How does it feel? Does it feel sturdy?
It is not as sturdy as I'd like to be honest. You will notice from the pictures I have already reworked the bottom once to allow the wheels to be farther apart. With the old base it was like a seesaw. In it's current state it will tip over backwards if pushed hard, but there seems to be little risk of tipping forward.
I am hoping that adding weight to the bottom helps remedy this but if if does not I will be forced to take the wheels off and go with feet/levelers to give it a broader stance.
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It tips backward? Really? If anything I thought it would tip forward!
I am sure adding some weight (i.e. the PC and maybe a 2.1 surround sound system) will help. If not, the levellers (and putting it against a wall) will definitely help!
Thanks for the valuable info! This thing will look so slick when it's finished!
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WoW....... what a great job :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy: cant wait to see it done.
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Had some nice weather today so I made some nice progress.
Slot cutter bit:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119369)
The T-molding slot is cut:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119371)
T-Molding!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119373)
T-Molding being applied
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119375)
T-Molding Notched for the going around the corner.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119377)
You can see there was a little 'extra' t-molding on either side. I purposely bought it so it was slightly big.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119379)
Trimming with a razor takes care of it nicely.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119381)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119383)
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T-Molding done:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119385)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119387)
I needed to beef up the sliding shelves to accept the front panel. You really can't drill into the edge of MDF so I attached hardwood that I could drill into.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119389)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119391)
The Keyboard Drawer Pull.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119393)
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Done for the day:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119395)
Drawer:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119397)
KB Drawer
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119399)
Front
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119401)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119403)
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Next steps:
1) Stiffen up the roll-out box. It is wobbly right now.
2) After cutting the hole for the coin door I will be laminating the drawer faces. I will probably put t-molding on the edges of both, we will see.
3) create a monitor mounting system
4) create a system for mounting the tinted safety glass
I am saving building the CP for last. I want to give it a LOT of thought.
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Wow! This thing is coming along VERY nice. Every time I read through this thread I keep thinking laminate is definitely the way to go - it looks great and the t-molding finishes it perfectly.
Are you doing anything crazy with the monitor like rotating it? I'm planning to motorize the rotation of the monitor in my slim upright (whenever I can get back to it) since 4:3 (or even 5:4) LCDs won't fill the space. I'm also rethinking my base after seeing yours - I love that the entire computer can slide in and out for easy access. :cheers:
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Thanks! I am very happy so far.
I didn't do a rotating monitor for two reasons - first, because I don't have any metalwork/hydraulic/servo skills, I didn't think I could pull it off without it looking 'ghetto.' If I rigged up some manual lazy-susan setup and the monitor was the slightest bit tilted while playing It would have driven me batty every minute. It is very important to me that when it's done it looks like it could have been mass-produced. I want people to say "really?" when I tell them I made it.
Secondly was the family-friendly factor. My wife would never turn it on if she had to adjust the monitor before playing a game.
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That's a really nice design. I like the slide out entire front panel (I'm guessing for access to the pc).
And that laminate looks great. My parents actually used wilsonart lam (in a granite shade) for their countertops, and when I heard that, I thought "Yeach!"
But, once it was in, and trimmed out, its REALLY looks good.
Same with yours. :applaud:
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Thanks! I am very happy so far.
I didn't do a rotating monitor for two reasons - first, because I don't have any metalwork/hydraulic/servo skills, I didn't think I could pull it off without it looking 'ghettto.' If I rigged up some manual lazy-susan setup and the monitor was the slightest bit tilted while playing It would have driven me batty every minute. It is very important to me that when it's done it looks like it could have been mass-produced. I want people to say "really?" when I tell them I made it.
Secondly was the family-friendly factor. My wife would never turn it on if she had to adjust the monitor before playing a game.
I am hoping to figure out the auto-rotate that a bunch of people around here did. There is a plug-in for MaLa that will start the motor for rotating the monitor upon selecting a game so no one would have to figure it out themselves. It looks really cool. I have ZERO skills in this department too but I'm going to wing it. ;D
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I haven't read here lately as much as I used to.. but the last one I saw involved a guy making his own GEARS! If there is a proven middle ground between making custom gears and code and manual rotation, I might consider it. I will search a bit.
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I haven't read here lately as much as I used to.. but the last one I saw involved a guy making his own GEARS! If there is a proven middle ground between making custom gears and code and manual rotation, I might consider it. I will search a bit.
Off of the top of my head, look up projects by these guys: psychotech, weisshaupt, DaOldMan, csa3d and Cornchip. I think they figured out the automation one way or another. csa3d documented everything with tons of pictures and details. I think anyone who could build a working arcade machine could figure it out (at least I hope that's the case). Look at THIS (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=88912.msg933326#msg933326) thread - csa3d links to a lot of different stuff that is fun to read...
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I read a few of those threads at lunch today... as I suspected, rotating monitors require a significant amount of engineering time. With unlimited time, I probably could do it, but I don't have a lot of free time. (As evidenced by the fact that I had the plans done for this cab done in Oct 2007 and am still am not done.)
Thanks for the leads though.
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Really great work there. I love the way the laminate works with the t-moulding - looks pretty swish and up-to-date retro (if that makes sense!)
Agree about the rotating monitor - once you've finished the cab, see if it bothers you then maybe go for it.
I've tried it before and before I abandoned the idea I must have spent the same amount of time and getting it working as the rest of the cab put together!
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looks pretty swish and up-to-date retro (if that makes sense!)
Makes perfect sense, and that is exactly what I was going for.
Thanks for all the feedback everyone!
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This is it Santoro - 55 degrees tomorrow and Sunday. Time to finish this thing!! I'm with you on the rotating monitor - I'm going to finish mine and then work on the rotation but I'm not going to let it hold up the entire project. It will be very difficult to implement. :cheers:
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55 degrees was perfect to get some more work done.
First, the way I had the rear vinyl stapled to hold it down looked terrible so I used some hardwood to fix it up:
Before:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119864)
After:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119868)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119866)
Next I built a template to use routing out an opening for the DVD-ROM. I used my Kreg Pocket Hole Jig.. worked great.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119870)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119872)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119874)
Here's the template screwed to the underside of the front panel.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119876)
And routed out. Worked nicely IMHO:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119878)
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Now was time to laminate the front panel and keyboard drawer face.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119880)
I couldn't resist popping in the coin door and DVD to see how it looked.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119882)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119884)
I applied t-molding to the drawer face edges and it looks great.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119886)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119888)
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Also - Turns out the coin door will fit with plenty of room without modification.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119890)
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(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119892)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119894)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119896)
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Some advice for you all. Never put your router down next to a bedsheet that you were using to protect your work.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=119898)
This mess flailed around dangerously until I was able to unplug it. :o
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Wow - things are coming along nicely! The weather was great today - too bad I had to work! :angry:
The vinyl is a cool idea for the back panel!
I seriously hope that's red paint on that sheet... :o
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I think they are flowers but ---fudgesicle--- me better the sheet than your hand, or worse..... your balls!
(don't ask me why I thought of balls near a router.....)
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Looks great, very stylish match of woodgrain and black, should look nice in its chosen spot in your home.
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(don't ask me why I thought of balls near a router.....)
Reminds me of the Pickle Slicer Joke - google it if you are not familiar
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I think they are flowers but ---fudgesicle--- me better the sheet than your hand,
Agree...
or worse..... your balls!
(don't ask me why I thought of balls near a router.....)
erm... me either. :dizzy:
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Made some more progress yesterday. I decided to stay with a square CP box but will make a curved front edge on the panel itself. I did wind up using laminate on the CP sides. If you look really close it's not perfect, but it looks very nice.
Not much narrative today as it's all rather self explanitory. I may be redoing the monitor hole with a router and template, the hole I cut by hand looks awful.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=120479)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=120481)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=120483)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=120485)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=120487)
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(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=120489)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=120491)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=120497)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=120499)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=120501)
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(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=120503)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=120505)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=120507)
Done for the day.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=120509)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=120511)
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One comment - you will notice that the monitor is tilted way back compared to the plans. As soon as I stood in front of it, it became clear that the planned angle wouldn't work. It was too close to my face and the viewing angle was really annoying. Where I have it here works well.
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Is it tilted back 30 degrees? It looks like it is. I am doing my one that way because I found on my first cab that it was a bit too much in my face also.
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Nice work!! I like the old school look on the wood, and the slim design!
Good idea to have the monitor tilted back some, it certainly makes it easier to look down at the cabinet, rather than have the monitor right in your face.
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Looks good. I will keep the monitor angle in mind when I am building. :applaud: :applaud:
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Is it tilted back 30 degrees? It looks like it is. I am doing my one that way because I found on my first cab that it was a bit too much in my face also.
I haven't measured the angle yet. I will let you know if I get to do that.
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looking good.
Whats the plan for the gap between the speakers and the bezel?
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Now that the monitor angle has changed I need to re-think the speaker panel - I will probably redo it from scratch.
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have you thought of a 3-way build up?
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Looking for opinions on control panel art. There's a bit of an effect I am going for here...
- When the machine is not being used I want it to blend into the house somewhat. Where I plan to put the cab you will see the wood sides most of the time. The CP wouldn't be too noticeable day to day from a distance.
- When the machine is being used, I want to feel like I am playing an authentic arcade machine, not a piece of furniture. This is why the front is black and there is almost no wood showing. A retro CP would add to this experience.
With that in mind, I am looking at something like this (it's a photoshop mockup.) I am interested to what degree everyone thinks the wood style clashes with the Centipede-esque control panel.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=121083)
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I think it depends on the marquee. I don't really like it as-is because it sticks out from the rest of the cab. However, if it tied into an equally bright/colorful marquee then it would probably look nice and not tacked on. I do think the design is a little "busy" though. Colors are fine but I'd scale it back a bit. :cheers:
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cab is looking great, you've got a very classy cab there, in keeping with the look, i would go with a much less busy cp/marquee design, and probably stick a one-color scheme/limited palette, i.e. a dark blue/red/green/purple/etc with lighter accents in shapes of the same. i think that too many colors and/or too bright would detract from the overall effect that you currently have going.
here are some examples of the sort of color scheme/palette that i think would look good:
(http://fc11.deviantart.com/fs7/i/2005/229/1/d/un_flower_wp_by_azazyl.jpg)
(http://fc30.deviantart.com/fs42/i/2009/090/e/c/electric_red_by_zilla774.jpg)
(http://fc36.deviantart.com/fs45/i/2009/090/9/e/Retro_Abstract_Wallpaper_by_FatChubaLuba.jpg)
(http://fc02.deviantart.com/images/i/2002/7/6/f/Beyond_The_Grace_Of_God.jpg)
i'm excited to see what direction you go, and the completed project.....
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Thanks for the feedback... I am a big fan of deviant art for PC wallpapers, but I kind of think they don't fit on a retro arcade machine like mine. Based on this and other feedback I am definitely going to tone down the CP, though I am not sure exactly how yet. I may completely dump the centipede motif completely and go with something darker and simpler. Lots to think about.
In the meantime I have redone the speaker panel and monitor mount, I am much happier with them now. I ordered a piece of smoked tempered glass today, and will be spray-painting a 'bezel' on the back of it. I also hope to cut the marquee plexi this weekend.
Temporary router guides to cut the monitor opening:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=121305)
The new speaker panel:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=121311)
The back of the monitor bracket prior to drilling:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=121313)
I added this hunk of wood to make it easier to move around with a dolly.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=121315)
The 'secondary speakers' to be used with the Ambiance App. (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=82754.0)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=121317)
I found a nice matching pull
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=121319)
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Here is the slot that will hold my glass. It is angled to match the monitor and was dadoed out on my table saw with a few passes. It was glued and screwed to the CP base using pocket holes.
The control panel will close right over this and hide it. The rear edge of the CP will be angled flush with the glass.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=121321)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=121323)
Testing the angle with some foam-board in the absence of real glass.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=121325)
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I made the 'rail' to hold my Nova Matrix LED Marquee light.. I may need to move it back more:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=121327)
Here's where I am at today:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=121329)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=121331)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=121333)
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I made a bezel today out of black hobby foamboard. It will probably not be too visible behind the smoked glass. On my last cabs I painted the bezel on the back of the glass but if you handled it you risked scratching it.. I am hoping that this will have the same effect without paint.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=121445)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=121447)
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I also modified the Sketchup plan to reflect changes I made along the way.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=121494)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=121496)
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FWIW - I think the angled monitor works well inside the cab. I bet if you knew you were going to angle it back from the beginning, you would have cut the sides in to follow the contour of the glass, but I like it how it is. I like the feeling of being inside the game.
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I agree, I kind of like it. I think if I were to have cut the sides to match the monitor angle the "marquee protrusion" (WTH do you call that part anyway) would have looked too large and needed reworking. I also need to make the sketchup angle a little steeper too, it doesn't seem to match the real angle.
Interestingly the real life angle looks nicer. I think it's because it is clearly supposed to be that way, while the lesser sketchup angle looks like it 'might have been a sloppy mistake.' :)
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Looks great, Im feeling inspired. Have you posted the sketchup file or measurements for the sides? Thanks
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I am getting a lot of requests for the Sketchup file.. I promise I will be posting it, but I (somewhat selfishly) don't want to share it until my cabinet is complete. I am making very slow progress due to a busy personal life and it would kill me to have someone finish a version of my design before I finished mine.
Hope you can all understand. :cheers:
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i understand perfectly......your selfish! ;D I like the changes old man. :cheers:
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I installed the PC and the tinted glass.
The PC was installed using an aluminum motherboard tray from an old PC. I also took the opportunity to plug in one of the cheapie cold cathode tubes to see what it looked like.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=121704)
Obviously I still need to secure all the wiring.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=121702)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=121698)
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Here it is with the smoked glass. Unfortunately I am not at all happy with the way this piece of glass turned out. It is wavy, has a few blemishes, and scratches VERY easily. I will be going back to the store this weekend.
When I get a decent piece of glass, I will be painting the Bezel on behind the tinted glass. The black hobby board bezel I made looks nice and presentable, but it is nowhere near as nice as the effect my previous 2 cabs got with a painted bezel. When that is done, the image appears to 'float' on the jet black glass. It's awsome, unfortunately I never captured it on 'film' to show here.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=121700)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=121706)
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NICE! :afro:
I was thinking, are you going to laminate the keyboard tray?
Also, about the art, why the hell are you not using the one in the sketchup plan!? That looks awesome!
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Pixelhugger's progress motivated me to get working on this cab again. It was a gorgeous day out so I made the speaker grill. I made it out of 1/2" MDF that is held on with really powerful rare earth magnets.
First I screwed in some temporary router guides and cut the speaker holes.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144137;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144139;image)
Then I rounded it over and spray painted it black.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144141;image)
Following Pixelhugger's example, I held the frame in position and drilled four small pilot holes to be guides for drilling the retainer magnet holes. The magnets were epoxied into holes that were already a snug fit. Here is a magnet in the cabinet frame:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144143;image)
I stretched the grille cloth over and secured with staples and hobby glue. Everything came out great:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144145;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144147;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144149;image)
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I also spent some time on the Control Panel. I am waiting for my high-lip trackball to cut the hole and actually start wiring this puppy up.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144151;image)
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I know I said I wanted to wait until I was done, but I am taking so long to complete it I changed my mind and posted the Sketchup Model on the first page of this thread. (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=71848.msg739091#msg739091)
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Worked on the control Panel a bit more today. The Lexan is going to be used as a base for an Polycarbinate laminate overlay from MameMarquees.com. Because it will be entirely covered I haven't been trying to keep it scratch free.
Next steps - add the stainless power button and my RAM Controls Atari cone switches for P1/P2 start.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144734;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144732;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=144736;image)
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Looking good Santoro - I'm glad you picked this project up again! :cheers:
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Looking really good...Im a sucker for the woodgrain look as well. Nice find on the laminate! :cheers:
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Slooow progress this month.
-I installed the Novamatrix LINX LED marquee light.
-The FE and MAME are configured and running.
-The cold cathode lighting is installed underneath.
Artwork and LED design/installation up next.
So a few personal notes. Keep in mind my last cabinet had a huge W-G D9200 Arcade Monitor. I was concerned about moving to a smaller screen.
1) Having now played MAME on my first LCD cab I can say that it is much nicer than I thought it could be. I played about 25 games without any overlay effects and I wasn't thrilled as it looked too modern. I then added the RGB_KB.PNG overlay and suddenly it felt very authentic. Additionally the significantly smaller LCD feels MORE authentic than the humongous arcade monitor I had used in my last cabinet. Classic arcade games had small monitors.
2) This is also the first cabinet I have made or played since the MAME artwork engine was redone, and I have to say I was very pleasantly surprised about how the sides of vertical games can be filled with cropped artwork. The entire MAME experience has come a long way in the years since my last cabinet was built.
3) I highly recommend the GGG Novamatrix LINX LED Marquee light. I bought 2 extra segments and it was perfect.
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Started the artwork for the CP. Any thoughts on this? The gray border won't be there, nor will there be any bolts showing. The controls are just a rough paste-in from visio.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=154352;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=154354;image)
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Here's another sun-less version.
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Almost 5 years after designing it, I am wrapping up. Did a reset on the artwork, here is a mockup. I have ordered these from Scott.
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Test fitting the control panel art. It took six tweaks to the art to get a good fit.
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Neatened up the wiring considerably.
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Hey man, nice job on the project! I'm curious though, if the LCD monitor dies, how do you plan on replacing it?
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With considerable effort :)
My cabinets don't get tons of use so I hope that won't be an issue. If I do have a problem the cabinet is wide enough for a 21" monitor, all I'd have to do is get out the sabre saw and widen the opening.
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The Mala front end.
VID_20120331_233423.mp4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=hif8-Ed13O0#)
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right click on the vid in youtube and select "copy embed url", then paste that instead of the link in the url bar on the youtube page. I'll trade you for you telling me how to apply the png overlays for crt looks in mame?
Love the atari style art and good looking slim cab.
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Deal.
There are several good overlays included with MAME in the [Artwork] folder. Just add the command line switch to your front end config.
mame <game> –effect aperture1x2rb (for low res displays)
mame <game> -effect aperture2x4rb (for high res displays)
I am using RGB_KB.PNG, attached with a few others I found. Just detach these into your /mame/artwork folder and add -effect rgb_kb.png to the MAME command line.
I don't know who to credit for these, I found them a few years ago and Google isn't much help.
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Thank you for that info.
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Artwork arrived from Gameon Grafix. Scott did an amazing job as usual.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182699;image)
This looks washed out but the colors are vivid in real life.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182697;image)
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That looks fantastic. Between the dark woodgrain and the artwork I'm seeing a bit of an Atari homage. Nice job. :cheers:
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I remember when you started this :dizzy:
looks good
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I agree with everyone else, good job!
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Nice job! :applaud:
I really like the CP... do you have any finished pictures of that?
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Haven't applied it yet - hope to do it soon. As soon as I get it on there I will post pics.
I am also struggling with whether to put the laminated/adhesive CP on top of the existing plexi or under a new piece of plexi with a sexy beveled and polished trackball hole.
Thoughts?
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a new piece of plexi with a sexy beveled and polished trackball hole.
This would like nice.
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The CPO came out great and I decided to apply it on top of the plexi. I had a few issues applying it and it's not completely straight. If I can suppress my 'OCD' I may keep it. The more likely scenario is that I will rework the CP properly sometime. I am very happy with the artwork though.
Up next - wiring the RGB LEDs.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=183016;image)
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Looks good! Really like the Atari cones.
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Thanks - the volcanoes make it for me too...
Did some more work today -
1) I mounted the Aimtrak LED bar...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=183021;image)
2) I masked off and painted the 'bezel' on the back of the tinted glass. The little notches are for the Aimtrak LEDs.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=183023;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=183025;image)
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Earlier in the construction, I said this:
I made a bezel today out of black hobby foamboard. It will probably not be too visible behind the smoked glass. On my last cabs I painted the bezel on the back of the glass but if you handled it you risked scratching it.. I am hoping that this will have the same effect without paint.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=121445)
The foam board bezel just wasn't doing it for me. I could see it through the tinted safety glass and it looked homemade. Here is the new and improved painted safety glass. It's a thousand times better.. I am delighted with how it looks. The monitor image seems to hover in the blackness of the glass.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=183036;image)
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And here is where we are now.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=183038;image)
The heavy lifting is done, all I need to to is the finishing touches:
-Add pinball flipper buttons- I have some extra orange or yellow buttons and I think those would look nice.
-Wire the RGB-drive LEDs to the LED-Wiz
-Install a few RGB LED strips to provide ambient lighting
-Install the new electrical cord setup (it's removable like a PC cord)
-Tweak the Mala layout to include an 'instruction card.'
-Cut a few vinyl button stickers for the admin buttons
-Add virtual pinball
-Cut and paint the back panels
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(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=183040;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=183042;image)
Note to self: get out the Fantastic and clean the laminate.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=183044;image)
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Nice Job! Really like the CP. :applaud:
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.
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Thanks!
Got the trackball and coin reject buttons lit. I will be ordering red inserts, right now it is yellow inserts lit with red LEDs.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=183050;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=183048;image)
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The traditionalist in me really isn't a big fan of slim cabinets, but I have to be honest- I love everything about this cab! It looks like an authentic relic from the 80s. Great job.
From the photos, I also like how it serves a dual purpose as a deterrent to would-be thermostat changers!
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Here's how I mounted the LED behind the trackball.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=183054;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=183056;image)
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....but I have to be honest- I love everything about this cab! It looks like an authentic relic from the 80s. Great job.
It really thrills me to hear this from you and others because I agonized over the details to get this feel...thanks.
From the photos, I also like how it serves a dual purpose as a deterrent to would-be thermostat changers!
lol... usually the cab is over more to the left. I have been moving it all around while working on it today and didn't center it right for the pic.
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(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=183016;image)
Love the CP, Looks new from the factory, only 30 years ago.... If you see what I mean
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I got the power receptacle wired up today.
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The sketchup model I posted in the first post has been downloaded 145 times, I was wondering if anyone has actually used it?
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I'm getting ready to install what looks like the exact same power block as you.
I tried soldering the wires directly to the power block but was not happy with the results. I went and bought some female connectors tonight. Did you do anything special besides crimping them in place?
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Nothing other than shrink-wrapping them afterward for safety. The kit I bought also had a rubber boot that went over the whole thing behind the panel, and I secured that tight with zip-ties
If you don't have something similar I'd consider somehow protecting it with an electrical box or a lot of tape. You obviously don't want ANY chance of electrocution if you or loved ones happen to reach into the cab for some reason.
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Love that panel art! :cheers:
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Nothing other than shrink-wrapping them afterward for safety. The kit I bought also had a rubber boot that went over the whole thing behind the panel, and I secured that tight with zip-ties
If you don't have something similar I'd consider somehow protecting it with an electrical box or a lot of tape. You obviously don't want ANY chance of electrocution if you or loved ones happen to reach into the cab for some reason.
Mine doesn't have a boot but I heat shrinked it. Just got done in fact. Thanks. :cheers:
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Just found a great t-shirt from one of our vendors that will complement my cab perfectly!
http://lowrez.spreadshirt.com/laser-blast-vintageprint-free-shirtcolor-selection-A8430497/customize/color/63#details (http://lowrez.spreadshirt.com/laser-blast-vintageprint-free-shirtcolor-selection-A8430497/customize/color/63#details)
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Great looking cab, brilliant work :applaud:
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A blast from the past, nice to see it come together.
This one really looks like it could be dropped right into an 80's arcade! :cheers:
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Thanks, it's always nice to get kudos from the king :)
I was hoping to use GGG Electric Ice button shells with black Happ button inserts for a 'glowing ring' effect but alas, almost no light was transmitted. (see the bottom middle button in the pic.) I was very disappointed, but then I replaced them all with pure Electric Ice buttons and fired up LEDBlinky. Holy Cow it looks great.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=183504;image)
This is my first LED cab, and I have to say I am blown away by the features packed into LED-Blinky. I was also very pleasantly surprised at how easy it was to set up. I thought I'd have to spend hours designing animations, but after seeing the assortment available I really think I can use what's in there with only minor tweaks. The LED setup has surpassed my expectations and it only took a few hours to get it all the way I wanted it.
Next up - I need to add the RGB cabinet lighting. Video to follow that.
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The RGB-lit buttons have been bugging me. In the darkness, the Electric ice buttons look stunning, but in the light, they really looked washed out to me. So then I tried clear pushbuttons. I expected too much glare, and I was correct. I started brainstroming how I might 'frost' the inside of the clear buttons, and the solution hit me - scotch tape.
I am not sure if it has been done here before, search yielded nothing. Essentially I stuck a bit of tape onto the end of the plunger spring and used a razor blade to cut the extra off. I will post pics of that in a bit. The result? A perfectly frosted clear plunger. I use black casings with clear plungers- I don't like how the clear casings looked.
VID_20120331_233423.mp4 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4C7NCbtR_94#)
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Wow those look awesome! smart thinking.
A little trick I've always done with my button LEDs is to square off the round tips with my bench grinder.
Diffuses them nicely so you never get that center 'hot spot'.
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Looks good! :applaud:
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Belt in the dryer? Didn't sound like shoes. Thunk...thunk...thunk...
Those look pretty pimp, I had thought about using some 200 or 300 grit on the end of a dowel rod and sanding the inside to get goop opacity but it looks like the tape does the trick pretty well. Nicely managed.
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Belt in the dryer? Didn't sound like shoes. Thunk...thunk...thunk...
My wife was drying baseball cap by itself in the dryer - it wasn't nearly as loud in reality, my phone mic seems to have accentuated that part of the audio.
Wow those look awesome! smart thinking.
A little trick I've always done with my button LEDs is to square off the round tips with my bench grinder.
Diffuses them nicely so you never get that center 'hot spot'.
I remember you saying that in the past but I had forgotten and didn't try it. I may still do that because you can sometime see the RGB component colors in the non-frosted part of the plungers. It's not that noticeable - but it might be a little better.
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Ok, as my first post I'm gonna give kudos and thumbs up for the awesome look you managed to achieve for your cabinet! Looks good all the way ;)
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Thanks, I am honored!
Not too much progress lately. I do have some of the Cabinet lighting done, I will post some more video of that when I am done with that. After that, all I need to do is the following:
1) Make a back panel
2) Finish installing the Aimtrak in my gun shell and set it up in MAME
3) Possibly install virtual pinball. Not sure if I'd really use it.
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I do have some of the Cabinet lighting done, I will post some more video of that when I am done with that.
Looking forward to seeing this! :)
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Maybe today - I only have one LED strip on top, I will be adding the side ones today I think. Then I can post some video.
Judging from how good it looks already, I think you'll like it.
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Very nice job on the buttons. I had considered LED buttons, but decided to have a couple kids instead. Now I have no time or money for, well, for anything.
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Maybe today - I only have one LED strip on top, I will be adding the side ones today I think. Then I can post some video.
Judging from how good it looks already, I think you'll like it.
Wow, didn't realize you were doing an upgrade, it looked great already.
Can't wait to see the video.
:cheers:
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Here is the menu and in-game cabinet lighting animation. I will probably modify it later to stay on each of the the colors a little longer. (sorry about the background noises, my house is NEVER quiet. :banghead: )
VID 20120930 194419 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Yq9kqICMoxU#)
This is the 'paused game' cabinet animation. It's one of the LED-Blinky canned ones, and it's a little seizure-inducing so I may do something different.
VID 20120930 194609 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2PjoFQbb4pI#)
Event-based cabinet animations are possible thanks to Arzoo's latest LEDBlinky released a few days ago.
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:applaud:
One thing I've noticed is that the animations you create are slower in the animation editor than they are when you actually implement them.
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The Pause one is a bit twitchy but the menu one is quite nice really. I don't have much motivation to go down the LED road but that is nice enough to make me take a look at it as an option again. :cheers:
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I adjusted the slower animation so that it stops on each color for seven seconds and then fades to the next. I like it much better. I will post a vid tonight after dark.
Also - In case anyone is gonna try this - you need a dedicated lighting controller for your cabinet lighting. I didn't grasp that at first. More info here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,119901.msg1270682.html#msg1270682)
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http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F7a5rO3VdNI (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F7a5rO3VdNI)
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^ Private video?
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fixt
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This is..Disco ! :afro:
:)
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Santaro,
I have been looking at several of the slim cabs in the forums of late. They all look like they could tip over easily. I like the design of yours with the wider profile. I tried to download the sketchup file and got an internal server error. Really all I need is a layout of the side with measurements.
Nice job on a long project.
Kaytrim
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Santaro,
I have been looking at several of the slim cabs in the forums of late. They all look like they could tip over easily. I like the design of yours with the wider profile. I tried to download the sketchup file and got an internal server error. Really all I need is a layout of the side with measurements.
Nice job on a long project.
Kaytrim
Look who's still alive.
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Santaro,
I have been looking at several of the slim cabs in the forums of late. They all look like they could tip over easily. I like the design of yours with the wider profile. I tried to download the sketchup file and got an internal server error. Really all I need is a layout of the side with measurements.
Nice job on a long project.
Kaytrim
Look who's still alive.
More like back from the dead. >:D My frankenmame died (PC) and the wife unit made me finally tear it apart. Thus I am perusing the forums again looking for ideas for my own real cab.
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Seems like bitly doesn't like my URL anymore. Fixed the link in post 1.
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Seems like bitly doesn't like my URL anymore. Fixed the link in post 1.
For some reason the link still doesn't like me. :(
Internal Server Error
The server encountered an internal error or misconfiguration and was unable to complete your request.
Please contact the server administrator, webadmin@kundenserver.de and inform them of the time the error occurred, and anything you might have done that may have caused the error.
More information about this error may be available in the server error log.
Additionally, a 500 Internal Server Error error was encountered while trying to use an ErrorDocument to handle the request.
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OK try again - it might have been related to the long file name.
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What are you using for leds on the back and how many?
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I used about 3 feet of this stuff on each side.... and 18 inches up top.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=+5050+RGB+LED+STRIPS+5M+&_sacat=0&_odkw=black+PCB+16.4FT+5050+RGB+LED+STRIPS+5M+300leds+waterproof&_osacat=0 (http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=+5050+RGB+LED+STRIPS+5M+&_sacat=0&_odkw=black+PCB+16.4FT+5050+RGB+LED+STRIPS+5M+300leds+waterproof&_osacat=0)
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I used about 3 feet of this stuff on each side.... and 18 inches up top.
http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=+5050+RGB+LED+STRIPS+5M+&_sacat=0&_odkw=black+PCB+16.4FT+5050+RGB+LED+STRIPS+5M+300leds+waterproof&_osacat=0 (http://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_nkw=+5050+RGB+LED+STRIPS+5M+&_sacat=0&_odkw=black+PCB+16.4FT+5050+RGB+LED+STRIPS+5M+300leds+waterproof&_osacat=0)
Thanks for the link Santoro.
Was just wondering if these had a sound/music activated mode?
:cheers:
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np...
That is a built in feature of LED Blinky, but I don't use it (yet.)
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Hello Dave. It's a nice marquee design you have made for your mame. Is it ok I use it too?
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Look at that Santoro. His first post. You're a star!