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This is way, way more work than I can handle right now.

Fair enough, I understand it's a niche ask.

Almost all players I've seen so far are reloading by pointing the gun below the screen to shoot off-limits.
16/9 or 4/3 format isn't changing anything, there is no black borders at the bottom, so aiming at the bottom screen border or aiming just below the bottom screen border is just a question of millimeters...

Isn't there a small chance they're typically aiming low because it's more work to aim off to the side on modern screens? Personally I tend to just aim off whatever side is closest, with 16:9 screens that's generally the top, I feel like it's a little faster than aiming down and less fatiguing, but I guess it depends on your grip. Sometimes it's nice to switch it up so your wrist doesn't get tired.

So yes, it's a very, very specific request, not to say for your device only...because it's the 1st time I'm reading about that particular issue in almost a decade.
I'd be curious to know what is your lightgun model/hardware ?

It's a hacked together solution that essentially uses VR tracking to move a mouse cursor around with a tracked guncon. There isn't any gun data to analyse to my knowledge, I can't even get the virtual mouse to show up in DS config so I use the single mouse command to get it working. I doubt you'll be seeing anyone else complaining about it, at the very least.

Hi all, looking to try out the stand-alone version of Lethal Enforcers 3. Could someone point me in the right direction of locating the game_patched.exe file?   Thanks.

Wanting to install an illuminated Ultimarc trackball in my new build.  Question before I go ordering it, will I need to get a PacLED 64 or can I just order their Nano LED controller which is like $40 cheaper?  It seems as though both will allow me to utilize LEDBlinky but I am not exactly sure what the difference is between the 2, other than the 64 seems like it can handle many more components like buttons or illuminated joysticks. 

I'm currently building a cab with an RGB modded kv32s42. When a white image takes up 50% or more of the screen, my color balance is off, whites become cold green/blue, blacks fade. If I run the High Voltage Reg. test in the NEC test program which flashes between white and black this is extremely visible. Anybody have any ideas what would cause this? Part of the board needs recapping? Otherwise this set has an excellent image. This isn't the end of the world since there is almost never a fully white screen displayed in a game, but it can make some things quite unpleasant like the character select in King of Fighters, etc.

Hey there- is this still available?

I would ask this in the Facebook group as well, but I'm not sure if it's allowed.

Does anyone have a spare working PC for sale? My Dell PC isn't cutting it and I've got too many hours into this poor thing. I would really like to just buy another PC and use my Nytric card and move forward.

Kind of a strange feature request, but would it be possible to make demulshooter intercept left clicks at the screen edges and turn them into right clicks instead? I have a gun that's left click only, so off-screen reloads aren't possible.

It is possible, in theory. I have (again, in theory) all needed information (gun data range, min & max values) to do so.
But in reality, it would require heavy change deep in the core of DemulShooter, where hardware data is handled, as well as a lot more GUI and config updates to enable the functionality and set the limits.....
This is way, way more work than I can handle right now.

This could be expanded into a region selection, which might be useful for 4:3 games and more standard guns. If all games are played fullscreen, rather than having to click off the screen at the top or bottom, or move all the way to the sides of a 16:9 monitor for off-screen reloads, you could just click the black border on either side of the playable screen region to send a right click event instead.]

Almost all players I've seen so far are reloading by pointing the gun below the screen to shoot off-limits.
16/9 or 4/3 format isn't changing anything, there is no black borders at the bottom, so aiming at the bottom screen border or aiming just below the bottom screen border is just a question of millimeters...

So yes, it's a very, very specific request, not to say for your device only...because it's the 1st time I'm reading about that particular issue in almost a decade.
I'd be curious to know what is your lightgun model/hardware ?

As for solutions, I've allowed DemulShooter to read keyboard signal to replace physical buttons that are missing on older guns (like EMS Top Gun).
You just need someone to make your own program analysing your gun data, check with your screen boundaries, and send a specific keyboard key to replace a RightButton event when you  need.

I'm currently using the iPac 4 in keyboard mode. I've also connected an iPac 2 via USB, and I'm aiming to integrate an extra set of 7 buttons into the system using the iPac 2. Unfortunately, I've struggled to find any resources on this besides using two UIO boards. 

I have been adding pc racers as of late; redout 2, smurfs, horizon chase, etc and using the joytokey or antimicro x apps to map the games keyboard controls to wheel. And it works brilliantly. Except ffb does not work. Ever. On any of these games. For unsupported games I use the 64 bit spring effect from Boomslangz pack and have copied the files over and setup the guid but no ffb applies. I don't understand why. Does anyone have any ideas?

the second stick won’t calibrate reliably. When plugged in to a second encoder board the windows calibration tool either doesn’t detect the stick and when flipping the 5 pin around detects it but it’s as if the crosshairs for the axis calibration is stuck in the right where it only moves when 2 of the direction microswitches are pressed (holding joystick in a diagonal manner) this again, translates to in game and is completely unusable. I’ve tried swapping out boards and using different cables both one way and another and nothing. The stick looks fine, no damage and was brand new. Trace/pcb look fine and microswitches look ok as far as I can tell. Just don’t understand why it won’t calibrate.

Are you sure that nothing's shorting to the joystick PCB and that you've got the connections right?
-  Sanwa and Seimitsu harnesses use different wire colors.
Related thread: https://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,156710.0.html

If those two possibilities are not it, it's time to troubleshoot.

In this case, an easy first approach is referred to as "swap-tronics".

You have a known good system (Joy1 + Encoder1) and a known bad system (Joy2 + Encoder2)

Try swapping the Joy1 and Joy2 connections so Joy1 is on Encoder2 and Joy2 is on Encoder1.
- If Joy1+Encoder2 is good, the problem is probably with Joy2 or the wiring/connections.
- If Joy2 +Encoder1 is good, the problem is probably with Encoder2 or the wiring/connections.
- If both are good (or both are bad), there was (or currently is) probably an error in the wiring/connections.

Another approach is often referred to as "divide and conquer" -- you take measurements or break the circuit in the middle so you can test part of the circuit.

In your setup, you have 3 parts to the circuit.  A is the joystick.  B is the wiring.  C is the Encoder.

    A--B--C

Try unplugging the joystick from the wiring harness so you can use a jumper or piece of wire to test if the wiring and encoder are good.
- Bring up the encoder in Control Panel -- Devices and Printers.
- Touch one end of the jumper to the harness ground wire and the other to the Up, Down. Left, and Right wires in turn.
- if the encoder test window shows Up, Down. Left, and Right as you ground each input wire, you know that the wiring and encoder are probably good and the problem is either with the joystick or the order of the wires.

You can test the joystick microswitches using a multimeter set to continuity.
- Black lead on ground.  Red lead on the Up, Down. Left, and Right pins in turn.
- The meter should indicate open when the joystick handle is centered and continuity when the actuator presses the microswitch that the red lead is connected to.


Scott