The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: Spyridon on August 17, 2007, 10:23:17 pm
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First time builder here! I was originally inspired by picking up an original Tron Joystick off of eBay. The plan was to build a Frankenpanel that can play every game imaginable. I've been following the posts in these forums for a few months and picked up Saint's book several weeks ago. Spending time in both of those areas gave me time to rethink the giant panel to the point that I decided to scale down a bit on my first try (and build a rotating panel on my second try ;D).
I continue to be incredibly impressed by the workmanship being displayed out here. I'm also amazed at how helpful everyone has been to my random questions I've posted here and there.
So here we go...
I've been following the plans in the Project Arcade book.
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Now it's time for cutting. Having never really used any power tools, I did what everyone in this forum does...bought myself a whole new set up tools (I better make more than one cabinet to justify that) ;).
After cutting out the first side, I used it as a template for side two. Then I clamped them together and sanded down so they were both equal.
(This cutting thing is not as hard as it looks - all fingers still intact)
I then used a router (Yes, another new toy) to cut out the slot for the t-modling. This part was easy, I'm a little worried on how to use the router when I get to the control panel part.
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Okay, everything is cut except for the control panel. I had a hard time finding 5/8" MDF. I cut one out of the 3/4" MDF as a test panel, but need to find a location to get the 5/8"
I drew out the locations for the support braces on the bottom and glued/screwed it all together.
I had some issues with the 3" casters as I tried using 4 swivel ones. I though I had them in the correct spot, but once I tested it out, some swivelling the wrong way and hitting the braces. I picked up some different casters and went with fixed ones on the back and swivel on the front. Much better.
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Now it's time to start assembling the sides. I used some of the parts I cut to support the top end since the size matched up. Nothing too special here, just trying to keep everything level. Glue and screws for all the connections. Again, I followed the book and tried to limit the amount of screws in the outside of the cabinet. The book said to use 2x2 pieces of wood for the supports, but I accidentaly purchased 1 inch wide pieces. I decided that they would still work and used them.
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Now it's really starting to look like something. I installed the marquee section, back sections and the monitor shelf.
Again, I'd like to point out that I have no woodworking experience prior to this. This just proves that anyone can build one of these if they really try. (Of course, I recommend having the Project Arcade book if it is your first)
The big dillemma I haven't solved yet is what type of monitor to use. TV, PC Monitor, Arcade Monitor ???. I'd like to go with the 27" Vision Pro from Happ, but last time I checked I think is was running aroun $450. Suggestions would be appreciated.
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Next on the list is the coin door. Again, I followed the recommendations in the book and used the hole saw to cut out the four corners. Next I used the jigsaw (again, gotta love the new toys) to cut our the main section. After test fitting and triming some areas that were a little off, it fit in nicely.
I also mounted to coin door using Euro style hinges. I had a problem with the top one at first. I thought I had everything lined up right, but it turned out to be way off. I tried to adjust it in the same spot, but couldn't get it right with the first set of holes. I was able to drop it down lower and reinstall. The door still wasn't perfect, but I was able to sand down the sides a bit to get it to line up. When you are not a perfect carpenter, a power sander can do wonders!
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:cheers:
Yeah, I know I just toasted myself, but I'm really pleased with the results. I know it doesn't compare to some of the amazing things I've seen on these forums, but everytime I look at it I get to say..."Yeah, I built that"!!!!!
That pretty much brings you up to date on where I'm at. Unfortunately, this is usually just a weekend project and only weekends where I'm not already booked with a full schedule. I'ts going to take some time to finish, but I'll get there.
Next on the list:
Cut our speaker holes (still determining which speakers I'm going to use)
Fill in screw holes with wood putty
Sand prime and paing
Cut out control panel (I was able to special order 5/8" MDF from a local lumber yard)
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I did come up with a layout for the control panel. My original plan was to build this as a Galaga (my all time favorite game) replica. However, two weeks ago I purchased my first original arcade machine. A fully working Galaga! It need some work, but is in pretty good shape. I've already acquired new artwork and new control panel for it. The restoration is for a future post.
(This hobby gets addicting quick)
I had already started on a modified Galaga CPO (Thanks AtomSmasher for the inspiration), so I just decided to add some additional items to it. I used the layout in the book with the following controls:
2 - 8 way joysticks
1 - 4 way joystick
1 - spinner
1 - trackball
enough buttons for two players
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I sent the artwork off to mamemarquees to get printed. I also orderd side art and a customized "O'Boyle's Arcade" marquee.
Now that really brings you up to date with the progress.
The picture below is my test print on top of the control panel I cut from the 3/4" MDF. I will use this panel to practice using the router.
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Looking great so far. Used the book on mine and it worked out great for me too.
A few pointers. On that control panel, you need to move the spinner and 4way away from the center. You will end up smashing your fingers on golden tee. Also, you might think about getting rid of the middle mouse button and spreading out the left and right.
For your monitor, get a tv. Search craigslist every day until you find a 27" with component input. That will give you probably the closest thing to an actual arcade monitor for $100.
Otherwise, keep up the good work and keep taking pictures. You really only need one more weekend to finish the construction, then comes artwork, setting up your computer, choosing a frontend, setting up your emulators, testing it, playing it, making changes, repeat.
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:applaud:
Lookin good bud!
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Wow - awesome job so far! :cheers:
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Today I was able to cut out the holes for the speakers. I wasn't sure what speakers I was going to use until yesterday when I picked up a set of Klipsch 2.1 speakers on eBay. Since these were the same ones used in the book, I was able to use the provided templates.
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I was also able to get the control panel cut out of the 5/8" MDF. I used the one I had cut out previously in the 3/4" MDF as a template. Once cut out, I used the router to cut out the slot for the t-molding. The slot is not in the center, but that is because this will have a piece of 1/8" plexiglass over it.
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Now it's time for cutting. Having never really used any power tools, I did what everyone in this forum does...bought myself a whole new set up tools
Wow, I'm very impressed especially because of the fact that you never really used power tools prior to this project. Looking at the results so far, that would be very hard to guess.
Good luck on the rest of the project.
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Thanks for the compliments. I'm really pleased with the way this is turning out. I probably won't get much if anything else done on it this week as I'm going on vacation for a few days.
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A few pointers. On that control panel, you need to move the spinner and 4way away from the center. You will end up smashing your fingers on golden tee. Also, you might think about getting rid of the middle mouse button and spreading out the left and right.
Good advice. I think I will drop the middle mouse button as I don't think it will get much use. I'll take a look and see if I can spread out the spinner and 4 way. I'm thinking about droping both coin buttons and just using the coin door for credits. More realistic that way anyway. If I do that, I should have some more real estate to work with. Problem is, I don't think I will be able to move the 4 way too much as the 8 way will start to get in the way.
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Artwork arrived in the mail today from Mamemarquees. Control panel and marquee look great. I'm a little disapointed with the side art. The quality of the material is fine, but some of the characters are not the highest quality. Looked better in the small picture on the website.
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Today I started to sand down the putty I put in the counter sunk screws. My question is how much putty should I sand away? Should I leave only the putty only in the circular screw area like this...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=82947;image)
or leave more putty around it like this...?
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=82953;image)
Another question. I'm going to be painting soon and was wondering what grit sandpaper to use between coats? I'm planning on two coats of primer and 2 to 3 coats of semi-gloss latex paint.
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Began assembly on the control panel box. First I test fit all of the control panel pieces together. I had to redo the back piece as I messed it up when I went to cut the 45 degree angle. I tried to use a jigsaw and it just wasn't happening. I then decided to give the router a try. What a sweet instrument that is! Worked like a charm.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83025;image)
I then glued and screwed the front and sides onto the base.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83027;image)
Next step was to apply some putty to the counter sunk screws.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83029;image)
That's as far as I was able to get tonight. Next step is to install the wood blocks that will be used to seal the top on. I will be putting a strip of velcro on each of these.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83035;image)
And finally, here it is in its current state. It's really starting to look like something! ;D
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=83033;image)
I have black t-molding for this unit, but I purchased that when I was originally going to do a Galaga themed unit. Now that I seem to have a blue theme going, I'm thinking about ordering some blue t-molding as I've seen some nice looking units with it (i.e. :notworthy: Knieval).
I'm off to California for a few days to visit wine country so I won't be able to do anymore for a few days.
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Okay, it's been a while, but my work space was consumbed by a kitchen remodel I had going on. Now that it is done, I'm back to work. The time away from the cab did give me some time to work on the computer setup. Mala is a wonderful thing!
Here is where we are now...
With construction mostly complete, it was time to prime and paint. I used a white latex primer
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87086;image)
Started with the bottom
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87088;image)
Then moved on to the main cab
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87090;image)
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I needed to secure the control panel top to the base, so I used the method in the book (as I did for the entire build) and glued/screwed velcro covered blocks to the top and base.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87092;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87094;image)
I used a couple of finishing nails to make sure the velcro stayed in place
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87096;image)
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Primed the control panel unit.
I was just going to do the bottom edges of the control panel but once I got going I did the entire bottom. I did not paint the top.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87098;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87100;image)
I used two coats of primer on the cabinet and sanded after each application
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Here it is after the second coat of primer
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87102;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87104;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87106;image)
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Next was two coats of semi gloss black paint. Again, I sanded the first coat down before applying the second coat.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87112;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87114;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87116;image)
I left the area inside the marquee white. I thought it would reflect the light better than if I painted it black (that and you wouldn't see it anyway on the completed unit)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87118;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87120;image)
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Yesterday I ordered the Nova Matrix LED marquee light from GGG. I can't wait to start putting the guts into this cab.
http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=307 (http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=307)
Now it's time for the difficult part (at least for me) working on the control panel.
First I cut a sheet of Lexan to fit. I used 5/8" MDF for the control panel so the Lexan will bring me up to 3/4" and the t-molding will fit nicely.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87122;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87124;image)
...and that brings you up to date with the progress. I plan to start cutting the holes in the control panel this weekend. I need to figure out how to use the router on the joystick and trackball cutouts. My first ever router use was the slot cuts for the t-molding, which went really well. This will be a bit more of a challenge. I'll just work on a practice piece until I figure it out.
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Hello Spyridon,
congrats on your project (and your new power tools!!).
The project is progressing well :cheers:
Jay
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Awesome build. Good luck with it. Gives me hope that I too can knock out a decent cab.
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You're just a bit ahead of me - I'm working on the front door right now then prime and paint. I'm doing my search for the monitor (thinking 25-26" TV) and prepping for the Control Panel layout. Enjoying reading your reports, so please keep it up!
Great work...
Jim
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I would rethink using Lexan. It scratches much too easily. Plexi is the way to go. Great work so far...keep it up. Can't wait to see the final cab.
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Nice Job man keep up the good work :applaud: :notworthy:
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I'm doing my search for the monitor (thinking 25-26" TV)
I haven't figured out what I'm going to use for the monitor yet either. I'm also thinking about going with the TV, just need to find the right one at a good price.
Thanks for the compliments.
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Looking good! Keep it up...
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Here's what I got done today. I started working on the control panel. I used a 1 1/8 inch spade bit to cut the holes out.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87330;image)
To line everything up, I clamped my printed template over the lexan and the wood control panel top.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87354;image)
I then drilled a pilot hole in the center of each button.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87358;image)
After the pilot holes were all drilled, I removed the template and used the spade bit to drill through the lexan and wood.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87332;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87334;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87336;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87338;image)
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For the trackball cut out, I used a 3" hole saw. To line it up in the correct spot, I placed the trackball mounting plate onto the control panel and traced out the circle in the right spot. Just like the buttons, I then drilled a pilot hole in the center of the circle. I went very slowly with the hole saw and it cut through the lexan and wood without a problem.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87344;image)
Here is the panel with all the holes cut out
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87342;image)
Just the wood with the Lexan removed
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87350;image)
And the Lexan by itself (still with the protective cover on it)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87352;image)
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Next step was to cut the holes in the side of the control panel box for the pinball flipper buttons and a couple of admin buttons. Same technique as the top. Pilot hole followed by spade bit
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87348;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87346;image)
On one side, I cut the hole a little too low which will cause the button to hit up against the control panel bottom. I'll have to get the router in there and clear out some room.
Okay, that's it for today's update. Next steps are to start cutting out the joystick holes. I also received my Nova Matrix marquee light yesterday (very fast shipping) so I really want to get that installed and see how it looks as well.
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Looking good so far. Just curious why did you call it O'Boyle's? Is this a reference to King of Queens?
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Looking good so far. Just curious why did you call it O'Boyle's? Is this a reference to King of Queens?
No King of Queens reference. It's my last name.
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Can anyone explain to me how to install the lexan over the joysticks? The holes I cut are the same size as the button holes. I thought the tops of the joysticks would just screw off, but they don't seem to and they are too big to fit through. Do I need to take the joysitcks apart (and it that easy) or do I make the holes bigger?
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It depends which joysticks you have. Many have a retaining clip on the bottom of the joystick shaft that you have to pull off then the shaft comes out. Many parts of the assembly will fall off of the shaft so keep track of which order and direction they were on there. Mount the joystick base to the cp then put the shaft back in with all the parts and re-attach the clips.
If you know which joystick you have you can proabably find a schematic online that shows the assembly order. If you don't know which joysticks you have you should post a picture here and somebody will tell you.
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I'm using 2 of the Super Joysticks and the Ms. Pacman/Galaga stick for the 4-way. I looked on Happ's website and they have an exploaded (http://www.happcontrols.com/joysticks/super_joy_e.htm) view of the stick. I guess I was hoping I didn't have to take it apart, but looks like that's the way to go.
Looking back at my posts, I didn't list everything I was putting into this, so here it is:
(All ordered from PonyBoy: numbers represent Happ numbers)
50-6084-1125R Pac-Man/Galaga Joystick
50-6084-00 Super Joystick Black (2)
56-0300-10TI12 Trackball Assy 3”
55-1102-00 3” Trackball Mounting Kit Zinc
95-2657-00 Slikstick Spinner
50-0465-00A Skirted Knob Assy.
49-0059-00 Panel Clamps (2)
49-1000-00 Marquee Retainer 36” (2)
58-9155-L Horizontal Pushbuttons Yellow
58-9144-L Horizontal Pushbuttons Purple
58-9166-L Horizontal Pushbuttons Black
58-9100-L Horizontal Pushbuttons Red
58-9122-L Horizontal Pushbuttons Blue
40-0038-01 Coin Door
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I routed out the recessed area for the track ball mounting plate today. Since this was the first time using a plunge router for me, I decided to try it out on a scrape piece of wood first.
I used the mounting plate to trace out an outline for the cuts. Had to read through the router instructions to learn how to set the depth of the cut
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87619;image)
I cut it freehand and it worked out pretty well. Here is a shot of the recessed plate in place. I did see that I cut it a little too deep, so I will adjust that on the real thing
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87621;image)
Here is a shot of the final work on the real control panel. I got smarter after the test run and used a clamped down straight edge to get nice even edges.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87623;image)
Not perfect, but a pretty good fit. I'm very pleased with the way it came out as this part kind of scared me going into it. Turns out the router is pretty easy to use. I now have the confidence to move on to top mounting the joysticks.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=87625;image)
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You did the edges and insides all by freehand? No template or guide? Nice work! Gives me hope as the Control Panel is the part I'm definitely having some anxiety about. Can you provide a photo of your entire CP at this point with AND without the hardware attached?
Jim
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You did the edges and insides all by freehand? No template or guide? Nice work!
Yeah... what he said! Congrats dude.
No way I come that close to a straight line freehand. If that was easy for you, I may need to upgrade my borrowed 20 year old router.
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You did the edges and insides all by freehand? No template or guide? Nice work! Gives me hope as the Control Panel is the part I'm definitely having some anxiety about. Can you provide a photo of your entire CP at this point with AND without the hardware attached?
The practice one was all freehand. For the real control panel, I clamped my straight edge down for each side. This allowed me to run the router against the edge and get a nice straight line. Just needed to be careful when you got to the end of each side so you didn't go past the outline. It really went pretty easy, I just had to take my time. Probably took me an hour to cut it out as I was very careful.
I'll take a picture of the whole control panel, but other than the recessed area for the trackball plate it looks the same as the pictures above. I didn't actuall install any hardware yet. The trackball plate is just sitting in there upside down to test the fitting.
I was most worried about the control panel as well, but so far so good (crosss finger...knock on wood...etc.)
I still need to cut out the area for the trackball. Guess I'll use the router for that and the same method. Won't have to be as careful on the edges though. After that I'm going to top mount the joysticks, so that means more fun with the router.
Thanks for all the compliments. I'll keep taking photos as I go along.
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Don't use a router for that, it will take many passes to get through the MDF.
Here's how I cut my trackball hole:
1) Print out the template for the trackball cutting area.
2) Using repositional spray adhesive (available at Lowes), align and stick the template down to your control panel.
Example:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=61896.0;attach=64583;image)
3) Drill starter holes near the corners of the template.
4) Insert the jigsaw into the starter hole and cut out along the template outline.
5) Peel off the remainder of the paper stuck to the control panel.
You may be able to forego the starter holes since you already have the track ball hole there to start from.
I actually routed my trackball plate after I cut the hole but it shouldn't make any difference.
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very nice
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Spent some time working on the trackball tonight. I printed out my template for the 3" Happ trackball, but I couldn't get it to line up perfectly. Since I already had the trackball area clearly marked out, I decided to just place the trackball on the control panel top in the correct spot and trace around the outline.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88101;image)
This gave me a good idea on where to cut out. I then pencilled in the area I would be cutting out
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88105;image)
Full control panel shot
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88103;image)
Next step was to drill some holes to allow my jigsaw easy access. I could have just started from the hole I cut for the trackball, but it was easier going from each corner.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88107;image)
Time to cut...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88109;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88113;image)
Almost there...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88115;image)
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And the completed cut
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88117;image)
After a test fit to make sure the trackball fit (it did), I drilled the holes for the mounting plate.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88119;image)
A nice flush fitting trackball plate:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88121;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88123;image)
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Next step was to start working on the joysticks. I printed out my template, but again it was slightly off. I decided that it would be easier to just trace the outline of the joystick. To do this, I needed to take the joystick apart. That E clip scared me! Luckily, it didn't go flying across the room and the joystick was in pieces...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88125;image)
To trace out the outline, I turned the base of the stick upside down and lined up the center with the hole that I had already drilled out.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88127;image)
I then traced out the outline, including the holes for the screws
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88129;image)
Repeat for the right side
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88131;image)
Next I drilled some small pilot holes. Once the router hits it, I would lose those marking. This way I can still line everything up
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88133;image)
And that's as far as I was able to get tonight. Back on it tomorrow morning. Hopefully, I can get all three joysticks done. After that is the fun part of putting everything together.
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Looking good spyridon,
you do a good job documenting your project and be assure it will usefull for other people :applaud:
not me, because, I'm just a bit ahead of you. I just finished the routing of the recessed part on my CP tonight >:D
Keep us posted!
Jay :cheers:
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Thanks Jay. I've been following your thread. Awesome work! :notworthy: It looks great.
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Spyridon,
Agree with Jay - you're documenting is great. It'll be a huge help to me when I reach that point. Picked up my monitor this morning and will be working today on getting it fitted properly in the cab. Your earlier comments will help there, too.
Remember - PLENTY of pictures and commentary! (I enjoy reading about other people's work as much as I enjoy working on my own.)
Jim
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Picked up my monitor this morning and will be working today on getting it fitted properly in the cab.
Thanks Jim. What monitor did you end up going with. I didn't figure out what I'm using yet.
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It's a Sony 25" - heavy commercial usage. Apparently they are used in newsrooms and such... well, before LCD flatpanels became the rage. It's very heavy - I'd estimate it's pushing 100 pounds and is going to require some serious reinforcing of the cabinet. The great news is the picture is excellent and I hooked up my laptop and played some games on it and they look great. Got it for 25$ from a guy who buys and sells audio/video surplus.
Jim
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Can't beat the price. Good luck with it and don't hurt your back lifting it in.
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Worked on the joysticks today. I started out by using the router to recess the Happ Super's flush with the control panel.
First the left side. I started marking the area the I will need to cut out in order to make it fit.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88183;image)
Then the right.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88185;image)
I tested the fit with the joystick turned upside down.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88199;image)
Once the fit was correct I used the router on the interior part. This wasn't as easy to do free hand as all the other parts because of the dept of the router. With it plunged down so low, it was difficult to see where I was going. Need to learn how to make a template for next time. Again, starting with the left...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88201;image)
If fits...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88203;image)
Wash, Rinse, Repeat for the right...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88205;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88207;image)
Not a perfect cut, but it works and you won't see any of the crooked lines on the finished product.
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Next it was time for the dedicated 4-way stick. I struggled with the E clip on this one, but finally got it apart
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88209;image)
Same approach as the other two joysticks. I used the base to trace out the outline.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88211;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88213;image)
And cut...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88215;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88217;image)
Test fit...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88219;image)
Then mark off the area that needed to be extracted with the router...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88221;image)
Cut...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88223;image)
And if fits...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88225;image)
This one turned out the best of the three. Guess I'm getting the hang of it.
And the full control panel with all joysticks complete.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88227;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88229;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88231;image)
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Needed a break from the control panel, so I started working on the marquee area. First I needed to install the Nova Matrix LED lights. Since the interior area was angled, I needed a level area to mount the lights. I thought it would be pointing too far down if I used the angled area. I screwed two pieces of scrap MDF to the top of the marquee.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88233;image)
The lights came with two wires that were only a few inches long. I attached some wires that would be long enought to reach down to the power supply on the computer.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88235;image)
Then I attached the light to the MDF pieces
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88237;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88239;image)
Trying to keep the wires under control
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88241;image)
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With the light installed, I can now install the speakers. I'm using the Klipsch ProMedia 2.1 speaker system. This is the same one used in the book. I first removed the cover and screws holding the face plate on.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88243;image)
I had already drilled the holes using the template earlier, so all I had to do was replace the stock screws with 1 3/4 length screws.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88245;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88247;image)
I orderd some speaker grills from Mike's Arcade and screwed them on as well.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88249;image)
I think I'm going to try and find some black screws as the silver ones stick out too much on the black background
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88253;image)
I wonder if I have the light mounted too low. Hopefully the speakers won't throw a shadow on the marquee. If the do, I'll have to raise up the light.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88255;image)
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Nice progress, well done.
I suggest you might need to use some other speakers or de-case those... I'm almost certain that those speaker boxes are going to cast a shadow on your marquee. I suggest trying a marquee in a dark room before you finalize anything.. and if you're set on those speakers being in the case, try some foil tape on the roof to reflect the light back down.
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Following on dmworking247 recommandation for the speaker,
If decasing isn't an option for you you can try what I did...
I'm using logitech Z2300 and have a similar setup : speaker close to the marquee and NOT decased.
Basically, I mounted the light source above the speakers and use a piece of luan covered with a reflective material.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=64434.0;attach=87158;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=64434.0;attach=87160;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=64434.0;attach=87445;image)
if you need more info, here's the post where I talk a bit about it... (post#191)
uroMAMEstyx speaker vs marquee solution (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=64434.msg747066#msg747066)
If there's something your not sure about this, ask ;D
Jay :cheers:
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I think I'm going to try and find some black screws as the silver ones stick out too much on the black background
On my current project, I had the same issue. If you can't find black screws, a touch of black spray paint may be your friend. I had the same issue on my current project. To get them consistant and even, I taped them together with a bit of tape, then hung them up.
Great progress.
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On my current project, I had the same issue. If you can't find black screws, a touch of black spray paint may be your friend. I had the same issue on my current project. To get them consistant and even, I taped them together with a bit of tape, then hung them up.
Same problem here, same solution as TheCoder...
The screw painted black...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=64434.0;attach=87427;image)
A close-up of the final results...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=64434.0;attach=87439;image)
Jay :cheers:
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Had to fix a problem with one of the pinball buttons on the side of the control box. When I drilled the hole, I drilled too low which resulted in the bottom panel being in the way of the button going all the way through :banghead:.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88713;image)
My first thought on fixing this was just throw the router thorugh the hole and make some room. I tried it and realized that the bit would not reach through far enough. After several minutes yelling at myself for not drilling in the right spot in the first place, I decided to try and use the spade bit to clean it out. It worked. I'm not proud of it as it is kind of a hack job, but it works and won't be seen once everything is put together. (new this was going to easy)
Here's a shot of the button going in all the way.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88715;image)
And from the inside...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88717;image)
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Next, it was on to the marquee. I picked up a disk drive power extension cable from Radio Shack. I couldn't find just the molex connectors I needed, so this seemed like an easy way to avoid hacking up my power supply.
Since I only needed tow of the four wires, I cut off the section I needed (on the left)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88719;image)
And connected it to the wires running to the Nova Matrix LED's.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88723;image)
I then plugged it into the power supply matching up to the +5v wire
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88725;image)
Turned it on and waited for the magic to happen...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88729;image)
:dunno
All I got was two barely lit LED's on each side? Was it my power supply? Switched to another one and tried that. Nothing! Stumped for a few minutes and went on to the web site to check the specs on the LED's. It needs +12v :banghead:. For some reason, I really thought it was +5v. Well, better I under shot than over shot. Need to read directions better in the future.
Switched the wires to the correct ones and.......
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88731;image)
There's the magic I was looking for!!! :applaud:
The pictures really don't show how bright this thing really is.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88733;image)
Now to see how the marquee looks (hand held)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88735;image)
I was worried about the speakers being in the way, but it's so bright, that I don't need to worry about it. It looks great as is.
I know this is common stuff to most of the people out here, but this is my first one. And I have to say I was really excited to see this thing light up. I ran upstairs and made my wife come down to look at it. (She wasn't quite as excited as me - but she did like it)
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Time to button up the marquee. I needed to cut the marquee retainers to size. I measure, clamped down, and used the jigsaw to cut it. Jigsaw went through it like butter. Really easy.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88737;image)
When I orderd the marquee from Mamemarquees, I also ordered the two pieces of plexi glass to hold it. Needed to remove the protective layer. First the front...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88739;image)
then the back
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88741;image)
I'm planning on painting the screws black, but was too excited to wait. I'll switch 'em out later. Installed the reatainers with three screws on top and bottom.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88743;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88745;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88747;image)
And one with the lights on...(sorry about the blurry picture)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88749;image)
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Looking good spyridon!!!
I had to think twice on my CP box before drilling the pinball holes.
Those mini marquee led seems terrific :)
that 5V error is not that bad, imagine if it was the opposite : 5V and you plug 12V...
It would have been a nice flash.
Jay :cheers:
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Spyridon,
The marquee looks great! What color t-molding will you be using?
Also, you say the LEDs require 12V - how did you solve that problem? Are you still pulling power from the PC's power supply?
Jim
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Spyridon,
The marquee looks great! What color t-molding will you be using?
My original plan was to do a Galaga style cabinet, but shortly after starting, I picked up a real one. I had already ordered black t-molding. I'll put it on, but may switch to blue at some point because that combo seems to work well on many of the cabs I've seen posted.
Also, you say the LEDs require 12V - how did you solve that problem? Are you still pulling power from the PC's power supply?
Yes, I'm still pulling it from the PC's power supply. Just needed to move the wire from one spot to another.
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Blue-trim t-molding would look nice with the blue in your marquee... just not sure if the blue t-molding would blend or clash with the blue in your marquee.
Jim
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It worked. I'm not proud of it as it is kind of a hack job, but it works and won't be seen once everything is put together. (new this was going to easy)
Actually, this is a good thing. It's better to have a few easy-to-fix screwups along the way rather than discover you :censored: up royally at the end.
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Today I bolted in the three joysticks. I used drilled all the way through the control panel and used machine screws, nuts, washers and lock washers to secure it (Thanks Kenival for that tip)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88771;image)
Here is the first one done
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88773;image)
And a close up
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88775;image)
They are really held in there tight with those machine screws.
Here are all three joysticks completed
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88777;image)
Next, I bolted in the trackball mounting plate
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88779;image)
And a top shot of everything in its place.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88781;image)
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On to the t-molding. I used a paper towel to avoid marking up the t-molding. That only worked for a little while as I needed a third set of hands to do it. Since the t-molding is black, it really wasn't needed.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88783;image)
Around the 90 degree corners, I cut out a section of the t-molding to get it tight around the corner.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88785;image)
Completed coin door section
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88789;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88791;image)
Around the curved section I added a few cuts to get it to bend correctly
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88793;image)
t-molding complete...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=51525.680)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88797;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88799;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=51525.680#bot)
The t-molding really gives it a nice professional look.
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Next, I added some clamps to hold the control panel box in place.
With the control panel box in its correct spot, I traced out the bracket for each side.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88803;image)
Then screwed it in place
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88805;image)
Finally, I lined up the latch and screwed that in.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=88807;image)
Did this on both sides and not have a nice sturdy control panel.
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More work on the control panel today. I placed my control panel overaly and lexan on the control panel top and lined up the holes.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=89176;image)
Once it was lined up correctly, I clamped it in place.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=89178;image)
I didn't use any adhesive on the overlay, instead, I cut a star patter in each of the button holes and used the buttons to lock it in place. It holds very tight and isn't going anywhere.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=89180;image)
And here it is with all the buttons and joysticks in place. (still need to add the spinner)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=89182;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=89184;image)
The last thing for tonight was the put the t-molding in place on the control panel top.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=89186;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=89188;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=89190;image)
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Looking REAL good! Has the hole already been drilled for your spinner?
Jim
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Looking REAL good! Has the hole already been drilled for your spinner?
Yes, it is already drilled. You can see it just to the left of the Q-bert picture. The joysticks are just sitting in there for show. I didn't want to install them or the spinner until I finished the wire work. It will be easy to turn up side down and work on at my table without them in.
Thanks for the compliments. Can't wait to finish it.
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I'm working on the wireing and have a question. Which buttons are typically setup as button #1, button #2, and button #3? The ones on the top row or the bottom row?
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Never mind. I figured it out once I installed the iPac configuration software. They used the top row as buttons 1-2-3 and second row as 4-5-6. Makes sense, so that's the route I will go.
Finished most of the wire work last night and plugged it in. It works!!!!!! Now I need to unplug it and forget about it until I finish up the remaining details.
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Wow, how time does fly. 17 months since I posted in this thread. Well, here is where we are. Game has been fully playable...hence the no progress. What happened is that building this mame machine, got me into collecting and restoring original arcade games. Now I have 17 of them in my basement. I do love the dedicated machines, but the mame game still gets lots of play. Next step on this is to replace the crappy 19" computer monitor that is just sitting in the cab. It was just a temporary setup, but I think 17 months is long enough. Time to go.
What is your opinion on the best 27" arcade monitor to use? I'm considering the WG D9800 for $395.
Specs:
Resolution: CGA-SVGA, 15 kHz-38kHz
Used On: MAME Cabinet Flat CRT
Replaces: WGM2798-U0FS06S
Games:
Global VR, Need for Speed Underground. Can be used in Pro Buck Hunter. Also has 4 spacers for CRT.
I plan on running this off of an ArcadeVGA board
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I'm considering the WG D9800 for $395.
I orderd the D9800 from eBay for $345
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Okay, here is what I didn't show you from 17 months ago...
I installed some tinted plexi and used two thin pieces of wood to hold it in place
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh244/joeo42/MAME/IMG_4098.jpg)(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh244/joeo42/MAME/IMG_4099.jpg)
Then painted them black
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh244/joeo42/MAME/IMG_4100.jpg)
and screwed into place
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh244/joeo42/MAME/IMG_4106-1.jpg)
On to the control panel wires. I used quick connects on all of the wires
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh244/joeo42/MAME/IMG_4034-1.jpg)
Ground wires in place
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh244/joeo42/MAME/IMG_4040-2.jpg)
One of the joysticks and corresponding buttons all wired up
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh244/joeo42/MAME/IMG_4042-2.jpg)
and the rest of the wires (still need to get the cable ties in place to clean this up)
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh244/joeo42/MAME/IMG_4122.jpg)
The finished control panel:
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh244/joeo42/MAME/IMG_4114-1.jpg)
Working game in the place its been for the last 17 months (getting regular use):
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh244/joeo42/MAME/IMG_6293.jpg)
...
Which brings us to today
...
Got this nice package in the mail today:
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh244/joeo42/MAME/IMG_6786.jpg)
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh244/joeo42/MAME/IMG_6788.jpg)(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh244/joeo42/MAME/IMG_6789.jpg)
Placed the new monitor in the cab to test it out (it's heavy). Need to figure out how I'm going to permanently install it:
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh244/joeo42/MAME/IMG_6790.jpg)(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh244/joeo42/MAME/IMG_6791.jpg)
Fired up the computer. Got the Windows boot screen. So far so good:
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh244/joeo42/MAME/IMG_6792.jpg)
When it got into Windows, the screen was all messed up. Plugged the old monitor in and lowered the screen resolution.
Bingo:
(http://i258.photobucket.com/albums/hh244/joeo42/MAME/IMG_6794.jpg)
I need to pick up a bezel that will work with this size monitor. Screen text is a bit blurry so I need to figure out how to adjust the monitor. Also need to determine if I'm going to pick up a ArcadeVGA board or play around with Soft-15KHz. (anyone have a recommendation?)
Well, it's good to get that small monitor out of there. I'd like to finish this up so I can get back to restoring the dedicated cabs.
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My opppinion,
If you are going to go with just mame, and no other emulators, other than classic systems then the avga is a fine card to use. It is rock solid, and the driver comes with all the resolutions that you may need. If you are a pc gamer, and you would like to drop in some heavy graphic games, then soft 15khz is the best route to go. I am currently running a ati x850 xt with soft 15 and it runs like butter. Its all up to you though.
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Also, the text is very blurry in Windows and in my Mala setup. I'll have to figure out what to adjust.
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Also, the text is very blurry in Windows and in my Mala setup. I'll have to figure out what to adjust.
I adjusted the focus and picture is a little better but still not perfectly clear. My game list in MALA is hard to read whereas on my computer monitor it was perfect. I ordered an ArcadeVGA card today so I probably won't spend too much time on this until that card is in.
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What resolution are you running at? You will probably need to adjust the MALA layout to use a little larger font for your game list. Give up a few games on the list for a larger more clear font.
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What resolution are you running at? You will probably need to adjust the MALA layout to use a little larger font for your game list. Give up a few games on the list for a larger more clear font.
I am running at 640 x 480. Anything higher and the monitor gives an overscan message. Games look good running, especially something like Dragon's Lair. Maybe with the ArcadeVGA card, I can get the resolution higher. If not, I'll just have to adjust the game list in the layout.
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Got the ArcadeVGA card installed as well as a new bezel from Happ. Picture quality is great on the games, but I will need to adjust the font on my layout. It's a bit hard to read on the big monitor.