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I have been waiting to try this since you first posted your project work!

Of course now that I open your github entry I find myself over my head immediately.

Is there any hope I can do this if I have never used Linux before and only have a Windows10 computer?

Maybe I can install virtualbox so I can follow your directions but my skill in dealing with computers and code is very limited!

Your very detailed directions look excellent- and also like a foreign (even when translated into English for me!) language.
 

If I can figure this out, anyone can.  Saying I have third grade level computer knowledge would be an insult to third graders everywhere.  You don't need to compile anything - bbegin has done it all for you.  Just need to mount the image on a memory card and then boot up the pi.  You then should connect to wifi using the config file discussed in this thread like 2 years ago.  Everything else is in the instructions and it's trial and error and you can't mess anything up.  Worst you can do is have to delete the image and restart.  Just dive in!

its called anti corona dope

WHO YOU CALLIN A DOPE!?

 

you need a special meter called an LCR meter to properly measure the horizontal and vertical yoke windings and see if they are close enough to the original.

your horizontal inductance should be within about ~0.05 uH and the vertical within ~0.3 uH without having to change anything and your regular screen controls can make up for the difference... otherwise you are looking at changing tuning the capacitors in the horizontal to try and make up for it. any further than ~0.15 uH on the horizontal and ~1uH on the vertical from the original, will likely blow up the chassis when powered on.



you can KIND OF measure it with an ohm meter to find out if it's close, but your really need to find out what the natural oscillation frequency of the coils are otherwise they yoke will fight the current being put out by the chassis and run really hot... or just plain blow up when you first power it on.

the yoke is essentially a coil of wire that has a natural flow of current in and out and does not create resistance. if operated outside of this natural flow in and out, the coil resists the change and becomes a blockage in the circuit. other parts of the circuit relying on this current flowing through unrestricted will fail.

Hi @psakhis
Will this work with a non GNC card like the amd HD 6950?
thanks

Make no sense if non gcn cards aren't vulkan compat.

I know this topic has not been posted after at least 120 days.
I just wanna tell if loadman was able to get back is website or at least share us the layouts database because i want it.
PM me if necessary.
Thanks. 

You’ve done such a great job, man! I admire it so much. I hope the kids are happy. Btw, my sons are keen on Fortnite too. They used to play PUBG, but then they suddenly changed their minds. I downloaded it, and I really liked it. I think it’s a good opportunity to get to know my kids better.

I just found this as well.

https://singulartw.en.alibaba.com/product/60478106375-803538866/Kiosk_Hybrid_Manual_insert_Magnetic_and_IC_Card_Reader.html?spm=a2700.details.0.0.2a8b50faGojv82

Andy

its called anti corona dope

It's not primer, it's only ever put on around the anode button, that i've seen. And only on some tubes. I'd always presumed it was an insulating coating designed to slow down the effects of the carbon buildup from the HV, which causes arcing.

Certainly looks like primer.
Does anybody know if that was sprayed on first to get the dag layer to adhere better?

I have a few that are scratched like that one and pose no problem thus far.