Let's see here:
1. It is a 3" Happs trackball with the red boards.
2. Scott with mamemarquees did a wonderful job on it and the marquee. Very professional.
3. It is 5/8" with a the top being made out of metal. There is more details in my announcement thread.
4. I used short leaf switches, lighting made from Whammoed, and an LEDWiz from RandyT of Groovy Game Gear.
As far as P3 and P4 being angled, I have not had any issues with kids or adults.
No problems on answering the questions, but I would greatly recommend reading through my thread, as I tried to be as thurough as possible on everything. Page 1 through 4 really talk a lot about the cp design and the components. I ended up using all 49 way joysticks with GGG encoders. If you look around page 6 you will see the insane wiring that took place to wire everything. I am now strongly considering switching back to a basic 4/8 way switchable, as I really miss the clicking and restrictions of an old school controller. If that is the case, I will be going back to an ipac4 from ultimarc, as I really like his software as well. If you look through the thread and have more questions, please feel free to ask, but many of the basic answers you seek can be found there. :cheers:
I'd also love to hear from any Toronto area builders on where they've sourced their parts for the control panel, etc. We're looking at some Happ Competition sticks, illuminated buttons, etc., and I've love to know the best place in either the US or Canada to pick them up for the least hassle.
Thanks CheffoJeffo - I'll check that out.
Jdurg - King of Kong is an AWESOME movie, especially for those of us with Arcade Interests! Yes, Billy comes off as one of the biggest --bags of cream-filled twinkies-- in history, his only saving grace is that he makes hot sauce.
Just watched King of Kong and I must say.. I loved it and so did my wife. She HATES Billy Mitchell, lol. I will say this, a poor loser was NEVER a winner! I am glad that he was de-throned!
Heh - I'd never seen that before...pretty good. Highlight is when the guy comes up and says "There's a potential Donkey Kong kill screen coming up if you guys are interested" :)
Just watched King of Kong and I must say.. I loved it and so did my wife. She HATES Billy Mitchell, lol. I will say this, a poor loser was NEVER a winner! I am glad that he was de-throned!
Just watched King of Kong and I must say.. I loved it and so did my wife. She HATES Billy Mitchell, lol. I will say this, a poor loser was NEVER a winner! I am glad that he was de-throned!
You know, Billy has the record again.....Steve said he is working on breaking it though.
Billy even did it in public!! He does suck major ding dong
WoW! Looking great so far. Cant wait to see the finished product and the control panel lay out.
Now to get building my cab now that I will have alot of spare time coming up. ;D
Nice work so far, project coming along nicely. Looks like you got lucky with those outer speaker holes. That must be a tight fit getting the router in their.
You're speaker setup is a mess. Speakers in series OMG!
deepblue,
I am a producer and editor from the King of Kong. Through the genius of Google Alerts I have been getting status updates on your project ever since April. I feel honored that someone would put as much time as this in appreciation of a film that I worked on. I would like to send you a free poster of our movie as a token of my gratitude for all of your hard work. Please message me through the forum for more details.
Again, great work and I can't wait to see the finished product!
C
Hey - sorry for no updates guys...if you see my comments above I was questioning whether or not my newborn baby OR my control panel/marquee printouts would arrive first.
Remarkably, they both arrived on the same day - my son was born on December 24th, and when I stopped by the house that day to grab some things, the artwork had arrived and was waiting for me.
At a minimum I'll post some pictures this weekend of my mamemarquees.com work I got from Scott (looks fantastic by the way, turnaround time was 20 days from placing the order to receiving the finished product up here in Canada), but hopefully I'll have more to share.
...the damn bezel. I've been dreading it because I don't have an elegant solution outside of some black cardboard paper and spray paint.
Week 7
Decided it was time to get the audio going on this project, so I took my old amp/sub unit and got to work on soldering the connections to my car speakers. For the audiophiles, I ran these in series (each channel goes from amp to speaker +/- and then from that first speaker to the +/- on speaker two) - my limited working knowledge of home audio tells me that home amps run at 8 Ohms, and running two speakers inseriesEDIT: parallel brings it down to 4 Ohms on each channel, which is the appropriate impedance level for car audio speakers. I soldered these and then glue gunned them for good measure:
You're speaker setup is a mess. Speakers in series OMG!
Speakers can change in resistance depending on the music. So with one bass beat one can dive to 2ohm, where the other is at 16 ohm.
That can give very strange results.
So never put speakers in series, and better, don't use them parallel either.
Is your setup 2-way, or did you just cram 4 full range ones into the top? Well better drive 2 full range ones properly, than 4 like you do know.
Ohm calculations are very misleading in speaker-land.
You most likely had it right the first time, assuming your car speakers are typical (4 ohms) and your home amplifier is typical (rated stable at 8 ohms). In this case, you would wire a pair of 4 ohm speakers in series (for 8 ohms) for each channel, so each channel of your amplifier will see a nominal 8 ohm load, which is what it is happy with.
With each pair wired in parallel, your amp is seeing a nominal 2 ohm load on each channel, which is not really good for it; though your amp may have built-in protection circuitry to prevent excessive current flow in the event of someone connecting a load that is too low. Also, your volume control can counteract the problem as well (i.e., don't turn it up too loud; your volume control adjusts output voltage to your amplifier).
No they're not. Ideally you want to match the speaker's nominal impedance to the nominal impedance that the amplifier is rated to be stable at.http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/technical-articles/228-a-secrets-technical-article.html (http://www.hometheaterhifi.com/technical-articles/228-a-secrets-technical-article.html)
Just for posterity (and so people know that I am making good on my word to finish this thing) - I managed to get the Maximus Arcade / MAME / LED Blinky configuration entirely finished to my liking. Well, almost - I am trying to compile MAME 134 with the hiscore diff and simply CANNOT FRACKING GET IT TO WORK. I'm not a slouch at this stuff - I know my way around a compiler, I just get very strange, non specific errors from Mame Compiler 64 and the Mr. Do's instruction set is too dated to work anymore.
Also want to get rid of the nag screens!
Just for posterity (and so people know that I am making good on my word to finish this thing) - I managed to get the Maximus Arcade / MAME / LED Blinky configuration entirely finished to my liking. Well, almost - I am trying to compile MAME 134 with the hiscore diff and simply CANNOT FRACKING GET IT TO WORK. I'm not a slouch at this stuff - I know my way around a compiler, I just get very strange, non specific errors from Mame Compiler 64 and the Mr. Do's instruction set is too dated to work anymore.
Why not just go back to a version of Mame that had hiscore in it?
You'll have to get a matching romset to go with it tho. (if you didn't know already) :)
The LED side of things would be damn near impossible without Arzoo's LEDBlinky app - it's sick.