Love the tiny steering wheels, but is that steering wheel going to hold up if you only secure the whole unit with one "button style" screw?Especially when panel has 45 degrees for example.
So when are you coming out with the GGG credit card?
;D
Heh, too bad I didnt patent that way back when...
Heh, too bad I didnt patent that way back when...
More importantly, when are the new joysticks coming out? My wife keeps asking what I want for X-mas and I keep stalling. ;D
Neat looking spinner and accessories. Will the mini-wheel option work with the original TurboTwist?
I will be ordering one of these. I don't need to order anything special to have it work with your EI trackball correct? Both are USB so should be plug and play.
Love the tiny steering wheels, but is that steering wheel going to hold up if you only secure the whole unit with one "button style" screw?
Wow. Love the idea. If it plays as well as it looks I will be a happy camper indeed. Talk a bout a small footprint...
Randy, since you state it has 1200 transitions per revolution, I assume that you are now using a 300 cpr encoder? Is that right?
If so I think thats probably an optimum setting. I found the 500 cpr one I tried was great for Arkanoid but was a tad "iffy" when trying to adjust it down for tempest. Just need a way to adjust the resistance on the fly now... ;)
KUDOS!
Randy, what is the total depth of the spinner with and without the shaft weight?
From the underside of the lip down. Will potentially go in metal cocktail panel(s) where depth is a concern. In this case the cp thickness is only 1/16".Randy, what is the total depth of the spinner with and without the shaft weight?
From where to where? Keep in mind that the way this is designed, much of the body is buried in your CP! So the amount that hangs below will vary based on CP thickness.
RandyT
Can the Mini-Racer be installed on a..... say, SlikStik Tornado Spinner Base?
I'd rather not the $90 I paid for the Tornado go to waste, But that steering wheel is awesome
From the underside of the lip down. Will potentially go in metal cocktail panel(s) where depth is a concern. In this case the cp thickness is only 1/16".
I can't tell from any of the pictures if it's there or not, but some sort of texture on the under side of the top mounting surface to keep it from rotating would be a major plus. It would add some grip. For all I know, though, it's already there.
I imagine anyone wanting to use this thing for driving games will also want that little fixture at the bottom of the spinner to add inertia and give it that heavier feel.
What's the diameter of that wheel?
Nicely done. The button-hole style mount is a great idea, though unfortunately it wouldn't work for me, as it's much more difficult to add to an already finished panel (with overlay on) than a smaller drill hole. If I was starting from scratch though it's certainly attractive. I have 30mm holes (Japanese buttons), but the ability to swap it into an existing hole is cool too if you're in a tighter space and using Happs or the like.
Randy...you suck...LOL! How can we keep up when you keep putting out great products? Looks Like I may have found the spinner for my driving game cab!
...does this mean the price of the original Turbo Twist is going to come down significantly?
If you decide to have a clearance sale, be sure to let me know....does this mean the price of the original Turbo Twist is going to come down significantly?
It will no longer be produced.
RandyT
I guess I'll say it before someone else does...
Does it come with a push/pull option?
(Hey Kremmit! How about that knob measurement from the original? Heh)
RandyT
Oops, sorry, forgot about that. Been really busy lately, blah blah blah. I don't have any calipers handy, but my super-scientific eyeball and tape measure says it's one and 9/16 inches; or 40mm.
... and less prone to breaking. I think it's a worthwhile trade-off.I guess I'll say it before someone else does...
Does it come with a push/pull option?
Seconded. It seems that with the completely encased design that modifying it will be difficult, if at all.
Without the ESC (flywheel) and including the extension of the shaft, it is about 2.45" from under the lip. With the ESC, it is very close to 3".
For those with 3/4" wood panels, this translates to 1.7" below without the ESC and 2.25" below with.
Great, will fit fine in a pac man style cocktail panel.
Hey this is awesome. But the default knob looks too small. (Same diameter as a pushbutton??)
And is the price really the best you can offer? I wonder if you might not sell 10x more at slightly less. (Sorry, raining on the parade here).
I look forward to a price drop. I'll definitely buy one when it hits the $40 range.
;)
I am REALLY looking forward to this....time to bust out the hole saw again.
Fortunately I think I can get a router bit into that hole and cut through the plexi and the wood and the artwork all at the same time :dizzy:
I too just ordered. I do wish, however, you offered the different knobs INCLUDING the original instead of just as an UPGRADE FROM the original. Had you offered, for example, big blue for $5.00 for a Big Blue PLUS the original knob I'd have bit, but I want the original knob as well as an upgraded one so I stuck with just the original...I'll buy a knob later once I try this one out.
Where is GGG? Where will the spinners be shipped from? I can't seem to find that info on the website.
You recommend the ESC for "lightweight" spinner knobs. Which of the knobs there would you consider lightweight?
If I am not mistaken, the original Tempest knob (sans skirt) was 1-1/4" in diameter. That is also the diameter of the default knob. The height is very close as well.
Heh, sorry, but yes. I have about $1000 invested just to make that special cable that goes between the board and the unit. Precision gear costs money and this unit is about as high-tech as it gets..
I would lose money on every sale at $40 each, so I think you might want to check out other options if that's your ceiling :)
I know the cost to produce the steering probably justifies the price tag, but for me, and additional $30 for what equates to a large "knob" is a little too much for me to stomache. If there was a way to get it dow to the $19.95 price-point, i'd have likely ordered it along with the rest.
I am also VERY curious as to the duribility of the unit when attached to the steering wheel...wheels tend to get pulled and pushed, bumped, etc a lot...will the spinner hold up?
CAN I HOOK MY HAPPS TRACKBALL TO IT? :dunno
May be true, but the "skirt" is there for the fingers to rest on.
(How many are left?)
Yes, but you will need to add a couple of pull-down resistors and you'd be limited to the Z-Axis unless you use a switch to share the X or Y axis.
order placed, also will the tops from Apache controls work with this one like it would on the original TT? Any idea if they would be heavy enough to use without the ESC?
Think I'll stick with my original Turbo Twist. I did a slick Button Blaster LED mod to the spinner. Looks amazing (hard to capture well in a digital picture for some reason?).
order placed, also will the tops from Apache controls work with this one like it would on the original TT? Any idea if they would be heavy enough to use without the ESC?
Will these work Randy?? If you don't think they are heavy enough any chance you could add the ESC to my order? Let me know and I will pay for it tonight or tomorrow.
Think I'll stick with my original Turbo Twist. I did a slick Button Blaster LED mod to the spinner. Looks amazing (hard to capture well in a digital picture for some reason?).
I love it! Awesome job! I had a little different method in mind when I was contemplating this, but it looks like you have it working quite well indeed. :applaud:order placed, also will the tops from Apache controls work with this one like it would on the original TT? Any idea if they would be heavy enough to use without the ESC?
Will these work Randy?? If you don't think they are heavy enough any chance you could add the ESC to my order? Let me know and I will pay for it tonight or tomorrow.
They should fit, but I don't think they will have the weight required. I will add the ESC to your order, and if you think you can live without it after you test it, you can return it.
RandyT
Anyhow, would you consider shipping to Taiwan?
Also are you working on any type of LIGHTED SPINNER TOP??
A question for you...the resistors included for the Blue Button Blaster's is the recommended resistor for 5VDC. What would the value be for 13.8 VDC (car voltage)?. I'm assuming the higher voltage's would need a higher value (I have no clue on how to figure that one out) ???
Will the Token-knobs fit on it?
Congrats on a great looking product! :applaud:
Yes, but you will need to add a couple of pull-down resistors and you'd be limited to the Z-Axis unless you use a switch to share the X or Y axis.
Pull down resistors? So the optiwiz used on the spinner is different than the regular optiwiz in some way? Did you have to modify things a bit to get the encoder to function properly?
Pull down resistors? So the optiwiz used on the spinner is different than the regular optiwiz in some way?
this unit is about as high-tech as it gets..
Anyhow, would you consider shipping to Taiwan?
Try it now.
Congrats on a great looking product! :applaud:
Thanks, but what I really want to know is what you think of the photography ;D
Hey... Where's Christian crapping on this thread?
Randy,
Seems you're replying to this thread more than email messages... ::)
Hey Randy! I'm looking to buy the Mini Racer Wheel ONLY, how would I go about that?
Heres my dillema, I have a SS Tornado and dont want to make another redundant $90 purchase.Hey Randy! I'm looking to buy the Mini Racer Wheel ONLY, how would I go about that?
I've not yet decided whether to offer them separately, but I am leaning toward not. They are specially fitted to the shaft of the TurboTwist 2, and probably won't work with other spinners.
I also have no idea as to whether the construction of other spinners can withstand having the this type of heavy attachment used with them.I appreciate your concern, but I think I'll be OK, I don't really have children around to go crazy on the wheel, and as per your warning I try this with full knowledge.
Heres my dillema, I have a SS Tornado and dont want to make another redundant $90 purchase.Hey Randy! I'm looking to buy the Mini Racer Wheel ONLY, how would I go about that?
I've not yet decided whether to offer them separately, but I am leaning toward not. They are specially fitted to the shaft of the TurboTwist 2, and probably won't work with other spinners.
I also have no idea as to whether the construction of other spinners can withstand having the this type of heavy attachment used with them.I appreciate your concern, but I think I'll be OK, I don't really have children around to go crazy on the wheel, and as per your warning I try this with full knowledge.
Make a grown man happy for Xmas, lol.
Hey... Where's Christian crapping on this thread?Patience my young padowan...
this unit is about as high-tech as it gets..
;D
Incredible product Randy!!! (I'm errrr, spechless . . .) (Okay I'm never speechless on a forum, but this is the coolest thing since. . . since . . . This is the coolest thing . . . )
You could offer the wheel separately to previous TT 2 purchasers, as I probably won't get one initially, but will probably add one later.
What does the "1200 transitions per revolution" mean?
Is that how many "spokes" are on the encoder wheel, or what?
Anyways, I'll probably be ordering one of these spinners with my next paycheck.
Too Cool.
ah, so that would mean like 600 spokes with 600 spaces?
Or something like that?
Randy, since you state it has 1200 transitions per revolution, I assume that you are now using a 300 cpr encoder? Is that right?
... you are correct.
...I can't believe it hasn't been asked yet...what is the all-too-overly-advertised-because-it-really-doesn't-mean-squat SPIN TIMES of these suckers?!?!? With and without weight...That would depend on how hard you initially spin it . . . :laugh2:
Randy - I was just curious whether the Opti-Wiz board included with the TT2 still supports mouse buttons. I compared the initial post pics with the Opti-Wiz pics on GGG, and it looks like the solder points are there, but the pin header has been removed.
Buttons would be nice for a standalone module like I posted earlier, but not a big deal if it doesn't support them.
...I can't believe it hasn't been asked yet...what is the all-too-overly-advertised-because-it-really-doesn't-mean-squat SPIN TIMES of these suckers?!?!? With and without weight...
...I can't believe it hasn't been asked yet...what is the all-too-overly-advertised-because-it-really-doesn't-mean-squat SPIN TIMES of these suckers?!?!? With and without weight...
With the ESC, it spins longer than an arcade spinner control needs to, without the ESC , you'll get a few revs. I'm not going to perpetuate that silliness by saying anything more than that on the subject. :)
RandyT
If you made the ESC magnetic, surrounded it with motor windings, then you could selectively short the windings allowing for selective spin times. Similar to magnetic dampened exercise bikes.
Randy, did you get my p-mail?
If you made the ESC magnetic, surrounded it with motor windings, then you could selectively short the windings allowing for selective spin times. Similar to magnetic dampened exercise bikes.
Gave this some thought, but I would be concerned about magnetic fields around monitors and such. It think it might also induce a "stepped" feel to the control, but I haven't tried it so it might actually work :)
RandyT
If you made the ESC magnetic, surrounded it with motor windings, then you could selectively short the windings allowing for selective spin times. Similar to magnetic dampened exercise bikes.
It think it might also induce a "stepped" feel to the control
But yes, it does have a stepped/bumpy feel. From hardly noticeable to bumpy. Depending on the pattern of windings shorted.
There's 300 teeth on that tiny lil thing?!? I saw that post, but didn't know what it meant. I know alot about BYOAC, but spinners are most certainly not my specialty.
There's 300 teeth on that tiny lil thing?!? I saw that post, but didn't know what it meant. I know alot about BYOAC, but spinners are most certainly not my specialty.Exactly.
Will the Token-knobs fit on it?
(http://www.groovygamegear.com/Store_Images/TTTokenTops.jpg)
Oh wait. Never mind. :badmood:
Looks AWESOME, I hope it feels as good as it looks because we need compact spinners out there!
They were never made, that was my way of busting Randy's hump about it. :)
There's 300 teeth on that tiny lil thing?!? I saw that post, but didn't know what it meant. I know alot about BYOAC, but spinners are most certainly not my specialty.
I'm guessing it's probably not the normal "teeth" and "gaps". I'm guessing etching on a metal cylinder, with sensors detecting the reflected light instead of light that passes through. But the principal is the same, and it's easier to stick with the well know "teeth" and "gaps".
I also suspect it's the same thing that's inside the other new spinner on the market
They were never made, that was my way of busting Randy's hump about it. :)
Let's not dwell on the past....they are being made as we speak, but will have a nice rubber inset grip instead of the cold and slippery stainless.
You will love them ;)
RandyT
Let's not dwell on the past....they are being made as we speak, but will have a nice rubber inset grip instead of the cold and slippery stainless.
Will the Token-knobs fit on it?
(http://www.groovygamegear.com/Store_Images/TTTokenTops.jpg)
Oh wait. Never mind. :badmood:
Looks AWESOME, I hope it feels as good as it looks because we need compact spinners out there!
Where would i get my grubby little Australian paws on one of these?
Can you give us a time frame and an idea of price?
Exacto the overlay, then holesaw the wood?
No, wait... clamp a piece of scrap wood on top of the CP first, sandwiching the overlay. Holesaw through the sandwich.
Exacto the overlay, then holesaw the wood?
No, wait... clamp a piece of scrap wood on top of the CP first, sandwiching the overlay. Holesaw through the sandwich.
It's a metal CP (Galaga style), and the problem is the heat during the drilling bubbles the polycarbonite and the vinyl. I've tested it on scrap before. So ya, some exacto work will probably be required if I do it.
Would it be possible to have two of them mounted to play some of the multi player(on one screen) driving games?
Can you give us a time frame and an idea of price?
But there is something that I'll talk about soon (after I conduct some tests) that may make that number much easier to swallow.
In unrelated news, I noticed from one of the posts in this thread that there's actually a small chance we'll end up neighbors next fall. Cornell is my first choice for law school. My chances of getting in are low, but I've already applied and have my fingers crossed. Let me know if you have any connections on the admissions board and I'll sign over my soul to you. ;D
Sorry to open the can of worms, that wasn't my intention. :-\
Oh, I know!!!! you are going to have the top able to light up like your TB and buttons. PLEASE PLEASE PLEASE
Sorry to open the can of worms, that wasn't my intention. :-\
It's just an interesting discovery that may prove to be beneficial and economical at the same time. But I'm not talking about it until I can do the testing.
I always HATE posts like this! :laugh2: :laugh2:
looks nice, are they just stickers??
You probably shouldn't advertise it as:
"MAME Turbo-Twist 2 MAME spinner for use in MAME arcade machines. Get your MAME spinner knob here at GGG, the place for all your MAME needs. Allows you to plays all your ROMZ and gamez faster and better than ever before . . . If it's in MAME it needs this spinner knob."
Awe...I opened my mailbox this afternoon to find a box! DAMN I WAS EXCITED! Only to find a minute later that the box contained a DOG SWEATER...
My wife had used my name...
:o(
Awe...I opened my mailbox this afternoon to find a box! DAMN I WAS EXCITED! Only to find a minute later that the box contained a DOG SWEATER...
My wife had used my name...
:o(
:laugh2: :laugh2: thats why I always look at the address
Here's an example of the "semi-premium" spinner knobs I mentioned. These will be separate order items and I have a few other styles / designs, including some very Tempest-like knobs.(http://www.groovygamegear.com/Store_Images/cooltops600.jpg)
Wohhhhh! Randy!! Those are absolutely awesome!!...... Only one question?? Will you be able to offer one off custom designs??? I'm guessing that you have to order these in bulk so I'm guessing the answer will be no. But I thought I'd ask anyway.
if the art is already vectorized and not too detailed, it shouldn't be too bad. I'll see what I can do.
Exacto the overlay, then holesaw the wood?
No, wait... clamp a piece of scrap wood on top of the CP first, sandwiching the overlay. Holesaw through the sandwich.
It's a metal CP (Galaga style), and the problem is the heat during the drilling bubbles the polycarbonite and the vinyl. I've tested it on scrap before. So ya, some exacto work will probably be required if I do it.
you need a greenlee hole punch, find a used one on ebay for cheap
Exacto the overlay, then holesaw the wood?
No, wait... clamp a piece of scrap wood on top of the CP first, sandwiching the overlay. Holesaw through the sandwich.
It's a metal CP (Galaga style), and the problem is the heat during the drilling bubbles the polycarbonite and the vinyl. I've tested it on scrap before. So ya, some exacto work will probably be required if I do it.
you need a greenlee hole punch, find a used one on ebay for cheap
Oh, metal CP. Whammoed is right. No heat, no drilling, no bubbles.
Exacto the overlay, then holesaw the wood?
No, wait... clamp a piece of scrap wood on top of the CP first, sandwiching the overlay. Holesaw through the sandwich.
It's a metal CP (Galaga style), and the problem is the heat during the drilling bubbles the polycarbonite and the vinyl. I've tested it on scrap before. So ya, some exacto work will probably be required if I do it.
you need a greenlee hole punch, find a used one on ebay for cheap
Oh, metal CP. Whammoed is right. No heat, no drilling, no bubbles.
You still have to drill a 3/4 inch hole to use the hole punch unless you have a press you can use.
Hi, I hope I did this right as I'm in the UK, suppose I should have asked first. I just ordered a TurboTwist 2 slave as I have an optipac in my cab, I take it the master one just includes the interface board so will a slave be ok through the optipac? I also chose USB1 as the device number as It'll be the only USB peripheral plugged into the motherboard.
Cheers.
Hi, I hope I did this right as I'm in the UK, suppose I should have asked first. I just ordered a TurboTwist 2 slave as I have an optipac in my cab, I take it the master one just includes the interface board so will a slave be ok through the optipac? I also chose USB1 as the device number as It'll be the only USB peripheral plugged into the motherboard.
I do see any kind of instructions in regards to where to attach the wire that goes from the circuitboard to the spinner...
Thanks for the fast shipping!
So... sorry for the newbie question, but how do you take the black rubber knob off? It's like welded on or something. (Or at least it resists all my efforts at being gentle.) I want to try out the mini steering wheel.
Oh, no joke about the steering wheel, folks. This thing could be used as a deadly weapon. It sure is solid. (Although a bit scratched up on the bottom. No biggee, though.)
Randy, how about Omega Race style control knob? I don't see new ones of these anywhere and I liked the feel of it. The top would have enough space for a token, if desired.
Randy, how about Omega Race style control knob? I don't see new ones of these anywhere and I liked the feel of it. The top would have enough space for a token, if desired.
I have an pot based omega race spinner sitting around somewhere, and I don't know what the big deal is about that knob. That thing is super fugly and cheap looking.
Randy, how about Omega Race style control knob? I don't see new ones of these anywhere and I liked the feel of it. The top would have enough space for a token, if desired.
I have an pot based omega race spinner sitting around somewhere, and I don't know what the big deal is about that knob. That thing is super fugly and cheap looking.
looks nice, are they just stickers??
I will most likely make the decals available separately so the Big Blue owners can put them on the knobs themselves. :)
RandyT
Hell yeah you are quick....DOCs in my email box as promised!
If I was within the first 4 units sent out...which number was I? It would be sorta cool in some strange nerdy way to be #1...
Haha, beat you by one :applaud: Order #2983
MINE IS UP AND RUNNING
Fortunately I think I can get a router bit into that hole and cut through the plexi and the wood and the artwork all at the same time :dizzy:
If your luck is anywhere near as bad as mine, you will end up with a bunch of saw dust inconveniently nestled in between the artwork and plexi doing it that way LOL. :banghead:
ROFLMAO.... :laugh2: Don't you just hate it when when you know it's going to happen and it does!!! I've now got to disconnect all the buttons, take them out of the panel, just to be able to lift the plexi enough to clean all the dust and plastic chips out. ARRRRGGGGGGHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!
First, try just loosening all of the nuts. You might be able to lift the plastic enough to blow out the dust without having to disconnect everything!
Randy, which knob would you recommend for Arkanoid?
Wouldn't the "feel" be more connected to the angle of rotation rather than the diameter of the knob? Especially when it is within one revolution. At least that's how I play. of course a bigger knob will feel different too, but the angle of rotation is far more important to me.
Randy - inventory is getting a little low...
Don't you dare run out of stock when I finally get some cash to buy this!!!
:-[
Randy - inventory is getting a little low...
Don't you dare run out of stock when I finally get some cash to buy this!!!
Side note: The machinist called today and said the TokenKnobs are finished. When I asked him what he thought of the design of the finished part, I believe his response was "gorgeous". I'll be picking them up tomorrow, so I should have something to show / talk about tomorrow evening.
I'm on the verge of putting in an order, but I think I might wait until the TokenKnobs are available. Any news?
Order placed just now.
Says the TT2 is sold out after I placed my order...randy I don't think you will miss in the special instructions...
Please Add BYOAC TOKEN KNOB and charge accordingly
Features:
Accu-Twist™ -The Worlds FIRST and ONLY "on-the-fly" arcade spinner resistance adjustment technology. Go from free-spinning to any amount of knob resistance you desire with a simple 3-second adjustment. Finally, you can have both the precision and original control feel of Arkanoid-style games.
GroovyGameGear would like to introduce the TokenTop™ Premium Spinner Knob
I am interested in how the ACCU-TWIST function works..
...and if custom coins/etc can be added...
I mean I love you guys, but I am not to sure about the BYOAC pimpage action for the cabinet...
Loosen the knob with the included tool. Raising lowers the resistance and lowering increases it.
If the BYOAC tokens aren't your thing, you will be able to order it without and you can fill the recess with whatever you like.
Loosen the knob with the included tool. Raising lowers the resistance and lowering increases it.
Loosen the knob with the included tool. Raising lowers the resistance and lowering increases it.I too must know more. Are we talking friction with the flange of the spinner and the bottom of the knob?
Is the knob attached with a set screw, and if so do you have to remove the rubber band to get to it?
You'll have to wait for actual users to give their reports on it after they get theirs and start using it. Too much potential for uninformed speculation.
There is very discreet hole for access to the set screw. It's smaller than the tool that goes into it. That's one of the nice things about rubber. :)
RandyT
The token recess on top of those knobs could be filled with clear epoxy, lacquer, or similar. Just add your custom-printed graphics or whatever first, then pour the epoxy on top.
Or, maybe somebody can find clear, blank dome labels that measure .984"? You know, like the ones they use on computer case badges or those groovy car keychains there's always a rack of?
They're not outrageous if you want a decent-size run of just one design, and I think they will do them in whatever size/shape you want. What I don't know is if there's anybody that will sell you a plain, clear dome that you can bond to custom, one-off artwork.
Ok, not so hard to find them....hard to decide on a couple of universally appealing designs though.....any suggestions?What is considered a practical order on this? (i.e. is it a minimum of 100 so you could maybe keep 10 different designs, or is it a 10000, minimum, so you need to pick the best and only carry one style?)
- No ESC Required - The Energy Storage Cylinder is no longer required for prolonged spin when you use the TokenTop knob. Reduces the vertical footprint of the TurboTwist 2 to an amazing 1.5" below 3/4" wood panels with no spinner performance penalty!
RandyT
How about a label saying 'Twist to open'. That'll really confuse the party guests.
Ok, not so hard to find them....hard to decide on a couple of universally appealing designs though.....any suggestions?
How about a label saying 'Twist to open'. That'll really confuse the party guests.
I don't care who you are, that's funny right there! :cheers:
I think I'm going to tool up for and do them myself.
Randy, which knob would you recommend for Arkanoid?
By the end of next week there will be a knob available that I expect will be better for this type of game than any other knob prior to it.
Is the token knob the knob you were referring to in this post?
Heh. Thanks for all of the suggestions. PoDunkMoFo set me straight on how these are done, so I think I'm going to tool up for and do them myself. I already have a digital printer / vinyl cutter, so if I set up with the rest of it, the possibilities will be endless. Might even find some other cool uses for the stuff once I get rolling.
Thanks,
RandyT
Invert your invaders design - i.e. instead of a blue invader on a brushed metal background, a Silver Invader on a black background.
Randy, this is one cool spinner!
Could you be more specific on what needs to be done to connect a trackball to the new OptiWiz (specifically a Happ). You mentioned popping a resistor across the data lines before the trackball is connected. What would the recommended resistor values be? It would be fantastic to use the Spinner on Z and the Trackball on X/Y- it would replace my serial Opti-Pac and my problem of mouse IDs switching would be solved. So many problems solved at once makes the TT2 cheap! :dizzy: :notworthy:
Wohooo!
Could you be more specific on what needs to be done to connect a trackball to the new OptiWiz (specifically a Happ). You mentioned popping a resistor across the data lines before the trackball is connected. What would the recommended resistor values be? It would be fantastic to use the Spinner on Z and the Trackball on X/Y- it would replace my serial Opti-Pac and my problem of mouse IDs switching would be solved. So many problems solved at once makes the TT2 cheap! :dizzy: :notworthy:
Could you be more specific on what needs to be done to connect a trackball to the new OptiWiz (specifically a Happ). You mentioned popping a resistor across the data lines before the trackball is connected. What would the recommended resistor values be? It would be fantastic to use the Spinner on Z and the Trackball on X/Y- it would replace my serial Opti-Pac and my problem of mouse IDs switching would be solved. So many problems solved at once makes the TT2 cheap! :dizzy: :notworthy:
The resistor thing was before I did any trackball testing with the modified hardware. I tried both an Atari and Betson/Imperial trackball and they work fine on the Master board with no modifications. I haven't specifically tried the HAPP, so I can't say for sure. But I have high expectations ;)
RandyT
Is there really a better reason to have a spinner?
Very nice. May I ? ;D
RandyT
Is there really a better reason to have a spinner?
Very nice. May I ? ;D
RandyT
Just out of curiosity, Randy, Would this also fit in the top of Big Blue??
As you scour the web you should know that .984" = 25mm. Does Tap have 25mm discs?
That's certainly a nice looking piece of equipment. Give a shout on the thread if we should wait until you update the ordering page for the token knobs or if we should just go ahead and order away. I'm already sold on it.
That's certainly a nice looking piece of equipment. Give a shout on the thread if we should wait until you update the ordering page for the token knobs or if we should just go ahead and order away. I'm already sold on it.
For those who have been waiting, the TokenTop™ knobs are now available at the store.
Linkage (http://www.groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=86&products_id=280)
RandyT
One question; how easy is it to pop out the token and put in another one?
When not using your Opti-Wiz based board, can the Red/Black wires be directly connected to 5V? Or do they need a resistor in-line.
Is anyone else having problems with their TT2 coming loose? I have really cranked down with a button wrench (requiring me to remove the weight to do so)...and again, I found my TT2 starting to loosen up last night. Standard 3/4" wood CP... not sure whats up. I may try a different "nut" this time.
Can the Turbotwist 2 be plugged into a Minipac from Ultimarc? Maybe the slave version, perhaps? I ask because I already have the Minipac and don't need another interface board.
Can the Turbotwist 2 be plugged into a Minipac from Ultimarc? Maybe the slave version, perhaps? I ask because I already have the Minipac and don't need another interface board.
Is it any reseller in EU who have this spinner, so I can avoid to pay a roughly high toll in Denmark (EU) (40% to total price+11$ fee)? I hope arcadeshop.de or such in the future add GGG as a vendor.Maybe you can have it sent as a gift.......just an idea ;)
This is the only reason why I diddent order yet.
So Randy, I hope you start a business in EU (like in UK).
Does the spinner perform EXACTLY the same (IOW with the same resolution/update speed) on the Z-axis as it does on the X or Y?
I tested it a bit (in USB mode) with Tempest and found that I need to cut the sensitivity down to 3% to match the 6% used when on the X-axis. This would seem to imply that something is different with the Z-axis and the TT2 (or opti-wiz). Maybe the scaling is different? Is there any difference (regarding Z-axis performance) between PS/2 and USB modes?
Of course, the reason for the Z-axis is the ability to add a trackball to the opti-wiz. If the spinner works on the Z-axis 100% as good as it does on the X-axis, then that certainly adds value to the TT2.
Rick
I'd like to buy it, but I see there's no shipping to Italy... :(
Kaytrim is correct in that it is a Windows "thing". There have been custom MAME builds to address this, and the topic has surfaced a couple times here, including what needs to be done to the MAME code to counter the Windows translation.
Kaytrim is correct in that it is a Windows "thing". There have been custom MAME builds to address this, and the topic has surfaced a couple times here, including what needs to be done to the MAME code to counter the Windows translation.This has already been addressed in windows MAME for quite some time.
MAME divides the scroll wheel count by 30. So if you set the sensitivity to 25% then 1 wheel click = 1 MAME optical count.
MAME 110u5 is out with the Mouse Z fix
BTW has anyone tried using their spinner for Asteroids yet? Mouse axis are now selectable as button input in the latest MAME.
As a result, we can now offer 3 different sizes. The original 5", as well as a 6" and 7" version. The bigger wheels look just like the small ones but are larger (who'd have guessed ;D ) Exact dimensions are included in a table at the site.
If you have the room on your CP (I don't :'( ) and can swing the extra cost, the bigger wheels might be a consideration.
I'm so deperessed :cry: ,I've just bought the TT2 with the 5" steering wheel two days ago and a 7 " comes out now :hissy:.
Would have loved the bigger wheel , just unlucky timing :dunno
BTW has anyone tried using their spinner for Asteroids yet? Mouse axis are now selectable as button input in the latest MAME.Sorry for the thread hi-jack.
BTW has anyone tried using their spinner for Asteroids yet? Mouse axis are now selectable as button input in the latest MAME.Does anyone know how to make this work? I go into "Input-This Game", select "Rotate Left", press Enter, and move the mouse, and "Rotate Left" gets set to "None."
Last question - What I would prefer is for either the Buttons or the Mouse to do Rotation, but I didn't see any way to assign this.
Do you think it's possible?
You just like left arrow OR mouse X axis Pos? This will be a head slapper for you Tiger-Heli ;):Thanks Robin, I tried that earlier. My
It's just like entering multiple OR inputs in mame: enter, press key/button, wait until mame accepts it, enter, spin spinner, wait until mame accepts it, (repeat as needed).
<?xml version="1.0"?>
<!-- This file is autogenerated; comments and unknown tags will be stripped -->
<mameconfig version="10">
<system name="asteroid">
<input>
<port type="P1_JOYSTICK_RIGHT" mask="64" index="18" defvalue="0">
<newseq type="standard">
NOT MOUSECODE_1_X_POS MOUSECODE_1_Y_POS MOUSECODE_1_Y_NEG MOUSECODE_1_X_NEG MOUSECODE_1_X_POS MOUSECODE_1_Y_POS MOUSECODE_1_Y_NEG MOUSECODE_1_X_POS MOUSECODE_1_Y_NEG MOUSECODE_1_Y_POS MOUSECODE_1_X_NEG MOUSECODE_1_Y_NEG MOUSECODE_1_X_POS MOUSECODE_1_X_NEG
</newseq>
</port>
<port type="P1_JOYSTICK_LEFT" mask="128" index="19" defvalue="0">
<newseq type="standard">
MOUSECODE_1_X_POS MOUSECODE_1_Y_POS NOT MOUSECODE_1_X_POS MOUSECODE_1_Y_POS MOUSECODE_1_X_POS MOUSECODE_1_Y_POS MOUSECODE_1_Y_NEG MOUSECODE_1_X_NEG MOUSECODE_1_Y_NEG MOUSECODE_1_X_POS MOUSECODE_1_X_NEG MOUSECODE_1_Y_POS NOT MOUSECODE_1_X_POS
</newseq>
</port>
</input>
</system>
</mameconfig>
Mywork, errmmmn test system does not like reading the mouse inputs at all.
I simplified my earlier response, but when I spun the mouse, my unmodified .cfg file looked like this:[snip]
When I tried to map an OR combination, it changed ROTATE LEFT from "mouse gobbledygook" to "Enter", so I asked here, but now that I know it's possible, I'll see if I have any better luck with my home (real) PC.
Works fine on my laptop, except if I try to map a normal mouse or touchpad X axis for example, the Y axis is included with lots of NOT or ORs or ANDs. Hand editing the cfg file gets rid of the extra Y axis junk.
<?xml version="1.0"?>
<!-- This file is autogenerated; comments and unknown tags will be stripped -->
<mameconfig version="10">
<system name="pirates">
<input>
<port type="P1_JOYSTICK_UP" mask="1" index="1" defvalue="1">
<newseq type="standard">
KEYCODE_UP OR MOUSECODE_1_Y_NEG OR MOUSECODE_2_Y_NEG
</newseq>
</port>
<port type="P1_JOYSTICK_DOWN" mask="2" index="2" defvalue="2">
<newseq type="standard">
KEYCODE_DOWN OR MOUSECODE_1_Y_POS OR MOUSECODE_2_Y_POS
</newseq>
</port>
<port type="P1_JOYSTICK_LEFT" mask="4" index="3" defvalue="4">
<newseq type="standard">
KEYCODE_LEFT OR MOUSECODE_1_X_NEG OR MOUSECODE_2_X_NEG
</newseq>
</port>
<port type="P1_JOYSTICK_RIGHT" mask="8" index="4" defvalue="8">
<newseq type="standard">
KEYCODE_RIGHT OR MOUSECODE_1_X_POS OR MOUSECODE_2_X_POS
</newseq>
</port>
<port type="P1_BUTTON1" mask="16" index="5" defvalue="16">
<newseq type="standard">
KEYCODE_LCONTROL OR MOUSECODE_1_BUTTON1
</newseq>
</port>
<port type="P1_BUTTON2" mask="32" index="6" defvalue="32">
<newseq type="standard">
KEYCODE_SPACE OR MOUSECODE_1_BUTTON3
</newseq>
</port>
<port type="P1_BUTTON3" mask="64" index="7" defvalue="64">
<newseq type="standard">
KEYCODE_LALT OR MOUSECODE_1_BUTTON2
</newseq>
</port>
<port type="P2_JOYSTICK_UP" mask="256" index="9" defvalue="256">
<newseq type="standard">
KEYCODE_R OR MOUSECODE_3_Y_NEG
</newseq>
</port>
<port type="P2_JOYSTICK_DOWN" mask="512" index="10" defvalue="512">
<newseq type="standard">
KEYCODE_F OR MOUSECODE_3_Y_POS
</newseq>
</port>
<port type="P2_JOYSTICK_LEFT" mask="1024" index="11" defvalue="1024">
<newseq type="standard">
KEYCODE_D OR MOUSECODE_3_X_NEG
</newseq>
</port>
<port type="P2_JOYSTICK_RIGHT" mask="2048" index="12" defvalue="2048">
<newseq type="standard">
KEYCODE_G OR MOUSECODE_3_X_POS
</newseq>
</port>
<port type="P2_BUTTON2" mask="8192" index="14" defvalue="8192">
<newseq type="standard">
KEYCODE_Q
</newseq>
</port>
<port type="P2_BUTTON3" mask="16384" index="15" defvalue="16384">
<newseq type="standard">
KEYCODE_S
</newseq>
</port>
</input>
</system>
</mameconfig>
Your example has 15 words per input: the max is 16, and to add a button, you need "OR" & the button. If the number words goes above 16, mame drops the old settings and just goes with the new. And 15+2 = 17 > 16, so that's why you lose the mouse inputs.Wow - I never would have realized that!!!
Did you try it in the order in my reply (key first then mouse)?Not on the work computer. I did try that on the home computer, although on the home computer - I basically ended up spinning ANY mouse to get the directionals assigned to something other than default (so they showed up in the pirates.cfg file) and then hand-editing the file to what I wanted (once I could see how the format was structured).
Does it make a difference? (I ask because I usually only get between half to one dozen words when remapping a mouse axis to a digital input, so either order usually works for me.)I'm not sure if it would have made a difference or not. Now that you explained the problem, I think I might have ended up with only the button input if I moved the mouse first, and only the mouse gobbledy-gook if I input the button first.
You have to spin it fast and far enough within the second or so you have to remap. (But not too fast so you get back spin. ) Very much like remapping any mouse axis to a normal analog axis (which seems to work easier on some systems than others).
mask="16384" index="15" defvalue="16384"etc. values mean?Thanks Robin - it was much easier to configure on my home system.
The game that I wanted this for was Pirates. It is supposed to be a joystick game, but the code is a pretty obvious rip of CABAL (the bootleg of CABAL is joystick-based) so I wanted it to play like a trackball game. It works much better that way, but it makes it a bit too easy.
QuoteYou have to spin it fast and far enough within the second or so you have to remap. (But not too fast so you get back spin. ) Very much like remapping any mouse axis to a normal analog axis (which seems to work easier on some systems than others).
At first, I was not spinning it fast enough to register, so nothing was added.
Spin it too FAR and you get MOUSECODE_1_X_POS MOUSECODE_1_X_POS MOUSECODE_1_X_POS ...
Spin it too fast or not quite in a straight line, and you get all the NEG inputs, NOT codes, and Y-Axis stuff.
With practice on the home computer, I actually got it to register correctly "MOUSECODE_3_Y_NEG" only ONCE, and I suspect experience explains why you only got about 6 words and I was getting 15.
Since we're looking at curiosity things, do you have any idea what the variousCode: [Select]mask="16384" index="15" defvalue="16384"etc. values mean?
<port type="P1_TRACKBALL_X" mask="255" index="1" defvalue="0">
<port type="P1_TRACKBALL_Y" mask="255" index="3" defvalue="0">
<port type="P2_TRACKBALL_X" mask="255" index="5" defvalue="0">
<port type="P2_TRACKBALL_Y" mask="255" index="7" defvalue="0">
<port type="START1" mask="1" index="9" defvalue="1">
<port type="START2" mask="2" index="10" defvalue="2">
<port type="COIN1" mask="1" index="21" defvalue="1">
<port type="COIN2" mask="2" index="22" defvalue="2">
<port type="COIN3" mask="4" index="23" defvalue="4">INPUT_PORTS_START( marble )
0 PORT_START /* F20000 */
1 PORT_BIT( 0xff, 0x00, IPT_TRACKBALL_X ) ... PORT_PLAYER(1)
2 PORT_START /* F20002 */
3 PORT_BIT( 0xff, 0x00, IPT_TRACKBALL_Y ) ... PORT_PLAYER(1)
4 PORT_START /* F20004 */
5 PORT_BIT( 0xff, 0x00, IPT_TRACKBALL_X ) ... PORT_PLAYER(2)
6 PORT_START /* F20006 */
7 PORT_BIT( 0xff, 0x00, IPT_TRACKBALL_Y ) ... PORT_PLAYER(2)
8 PORT_START /* F60000 */
9 PORT_BIT( 0x0001, IP_ACTIVE_LOW, IPT_START1 )
10 PORT_BIT( 0x0002, IP_ACTIVE_LOW, IPT_START2 )
11 PORT_BIT( 0x0004, IP_ACTIVE_LOW, IPT_UNUSED )
12 PORT_BIT( 0x0008, IP_ACTIVE_LOW, IPT_UNUSED )
13 PORT_BIT( 0x0010, IP_ACTIVE_LOW, IPT_VBLANK )
14 PORT_BIT( 0x0020, IP_ACTIVE_LOW, IPT_UNUSED )
15 PORT_SERVICE( 0x0040, IP_ACTIVE_LOW )
16 PORT_BIT( 0x0080, IP_ACTIVE_HIGH, IPT_SPECIAL )
17 PORT_BIT( 0xff00, IP_ACTIVE_LOW, IPT_UNUSED )
...
Another "Updated Info" bump:
For those who haven't noticed, The Mini-Racers have been revised due to supply issues with the original style.
As a result, we can now offer 3 different sizes. The original 5", as well as a 6" and 7" version. The bigger wheels look just like the small ones but are larger (who'd have guessed ;D ) Exact dimensions are included in a table at the site.
If you have the room on your CP (I don't :'( ) and can swing the extra cost, the bigger wheels might be a consideration.
RandyT
Hi all...just to confirm, if I would like to have 2 spinners (and two 5" wheels) and want to be able to use them both at the same time (with 2 players), I would purchase one TT2 (master) and one TT2 slave (plus the 2 wheel addons)? How about if you wanted to run 3 or 4 spinners (with wheels) would the extra spinners be slaves or would you need another master?