The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: Richie_jones on August 28, 2016, 06:36:57 am
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Now complete
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170809/64e2b2c42c2e36f0350b3d4f3fa5794e.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170809/6439063d70055b4f38e29f1435f8fb9f.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170809/5da6e4ff70d2ef00679a4d96495b78ad.jpg)
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170809/59042d31c996739f8a66bb644e41c7dd.jpg)
I've been away from the scene for a while. Originally built a tron bartop and have been itching to get back into the hobby.
What to build though?..no room in the house for a full size cab so another bartop it will have to be.
This cab will be placed on a coffee table so not so much a bartop this time..
Anyway..
I'm hopeing to raise the bar with this one. The cab will have clear perspex on the back and front so all the internals can be seen meaning that I'll have to be super neat with the wiring.
2player with trackball and 24inch ips display.
Some images of how far I've got
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160828/755e45f33eb38102685b7bacf48549de.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160828/537dcf152b249a62e3444f0f3a8704c2.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160828/50e76b7c7de797226a433c79fff5ca2d.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160828/1ada06b26385053259a70719ed8f1114.jpg)
Will update with more pics soon
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Nice kerfs. Don't see that very often on builds.
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Yes, much props to you for the rounded kerfed corners. It looks way better than some of the squared-off ones people have been building.
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Thanks it took a few attempts to get the kerf right. All about getting the grain the correct way in the wood that's to be bent and being brave enough to only leave a few mm left in the depth of the cut.
The only problem with this type of curved top piece is how to make it look finished in the final stages (the edge that's facing you). T molding is a no go due to the direction of the curve and any bevelling needs to be done before the kerf cuts which if I'm honest I didn't realise. So I've decided that the speaker panel and glass screen will need to go to the extreme edges of the wood either side. I'll have to see what happens but it's definately something I overlooked.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160829/e3576c6739365784cef040b94c740606.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160829/bdb359420a415028f89428dbe7393eff.jpg)
I don't recommend these either if using ply. Need an 8mm hole and hammered in but ply splits so easy. Ended up with a 9mm hole loose fit and glued them in.
Should look nice with the stainless bolts and will be easy to take apart if needed.
The cab will be in two parts with the monitor and speakers easily removable from the Base. I struggled with the tron bartop after building it doing any upgrades or repairs was allways a pain. Hopeing this one will be easier to maintain...
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The only problem with this type of curved top piece is how to make it look finished in the final stages (the edge that's facing you). T molding is a no go due to the direction of the curve and any bevelling needs to be done before the kerf cuts which if I'm honest I didn't realise. So I've decided that the speaker panel and glass screen will need to go to the extreme edges of the wood either side. I'll have to see what happens but it's definately something I overlooked.
Fill the voids with either Bondo or a paste made with wood glue and the sawdust from cutting the wood - overfill a bit - let dry and sand smooth and you will not even be able to tell it was cut (esp. if painting) -- will also make those corners solid again so you don't have to worry about it snapping. Also after filling and sanding you are back to where you can cut the T-mold slot or round the edges if you want !
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Thanks jd...I've never seen t mold bent along its face If you know what I mean..is that possible?
What's bondo like when routerd over do you reckon a small bevel would be ok or maybe it would destroy the kerf...
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Thanks jd...I've never seen t mold bent along its face If you know what I mean..is that possible?
What's bondo like when routerd over do you reckon a small bevel would be ok or maybe it would destroy the kerf...
Yeah - I guess that would be pretty difficult to do ! --- Perhaps using a rounding bit to create a rounded edge and then taping it off and painting with a plastic paint ( ie. Plasti-Dip)
Probably best to try it first on a test piece and see what the results look like - but once dried BONDO is pretty much the same to work on as the MDF so don't think it would destroy the kerf and would probably actually make it stronger since it fills in the voids rather than having the airspace.
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Some progress today
Loosely screwed up using those joining blocks. I'll be changing these for something more permanent eventually.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160901/bb7d942773608e2e1158b3138b0bb5d8.jpg)
Just needed to get it together to see if every thing will fit..
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160901/4dea2e65a8fe986d14eb50491ade7c7b.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160901/b9b28954eb88dd6018e6c05416a6fb5e.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160901/7caa3900d07d29d9c40992000b740a26.jpg)
The black spacers will be changed for chrome ones. The gap is to allow air to enter the sides into 2 92mm fans that will be drawing air into the case.
There's another panel missing from the top about 4 inches deep that will house the speakers and tweeters.
Plexiglas curved etched panel will cover the rear and Plexiglas in the front so the whole insides can be seen. All lit up of course.
Thanks for looking
Sent from my SM-N930F using Tapatalk
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Looking good.
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Very clean. :cheers:
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Rough body complete now both sides have all the bolts in..next step is to roundover the edges (will be interesting around the curve).
Then think it will be a test fit of the parts dry to mark out where the base needs routing to carry all my cables under the motherboard. Don't forget this build will all be visible inside behind some plexi.
Also need to cut two fan exhausts both sides..
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160905/3c1a317b8ce20e6cf5469666032b178f.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160905/374a88fe6f025acb15c6edb01f80c959.jpg)
Sent from my SM-N930F using Tapatalk
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I'm really digging those curves! I'd have never thought about bending plywood like that.
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I assumed the ultimarc trackball would of been smaller than it his.
It's going to have to be this way round.anybody know if they can be installed this way?
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20160914/847995952ee2b004dfdb2c7698753878.jpg)
Sent from my SM-N930F using Tapatalk
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anybody know if they can be installed this way?
Should be fine just when wiring you will have to place the wires so that it reports the correct directions (ie. left and right are now up and down - so wires will need to be swapped when connecting so that the trackball movement matches the encoder input !)
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Great thanks..I've scrapped it now. It's just to big would ruin my two player layout. I'd be sacrificing space between the sticks and buttons for it
Sent from my SM-N930F using Tapatalk
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Great thanks..I've scrapped it now. It's just to big would ruin my two player layout. I'd be sacrificing space between the sticks and buttons for it
Sent from my SM-N930F using Tapatalk
Since you have the trackball already -perhaps build a small control panel for it that plugs into the machine - that way you could connect it when wanting to play a trackball game and remove it when playing other games.
Perhaps using something like this DB9 connector :
(http://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/0FMAAOSwPcJVRzfG/s-l1600.jpg)
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Not sure if your trackball can be installed like that as if I'm looking at your picture right - you have it rotated 45 degrees which won't map directly to X and y directions properly...
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Thanks..any body got the dimensions of the pacled64 board..? Can't find them on ultimarc..
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Not looking like much progress but I've spent many hours with the router making the edges nice, cutting the t mould slots and checking clearances etc.
Just thought I'd put some pics out there so people can comment before I'm really committed with paint etc..
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161016/8d5b85a2ea2d08114e5a5c30b183d151.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161016/0e85010b0103b62d55813b4e58b4e611.jpg)
This first pic shows the complete side. The thin piece across the front will house the player start and coin buttons and possibly a slot load dvd drive.
The psu mounts upside down in the base with the fan blowing outwards and the whole cab will be on 15mm feet.
Control panel will be 5mm plexiglass and also under the control panel will be plexiglass bent to fit.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161016/0b07a1c902d3fa3c7c8d4c1f6743d98c.jpg)
This next pic shows the rear view with a piece of plexiglass pushed in. The finished plexiglass will be bent to form and will sit in a slot on the base. The gfx card on a riser ribbon cable. So the gfx card will be just below the plexiglass.
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161016/b4b14e4335c12a4bbd0e8172f9f2b027.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161016/3f7401cd9b8bae6de8a11fd810b1dbeb.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161016/18393d844d947b5bf954a13031c58e7a.jpg)
The panel at the top will house the speakers it's a bit deep at the moment as I've yet to buy the speakers...
There'll be a 24inch Ips display below the speakers.
Any comments welcome thanks
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
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Hi
This is where I'm up to now..
Appreciate any comments
Got a few issues
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161126/4350036ccfea2187cf54409022eafd1c.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161126/78a47e9e6d3617cddf4052fc63222d55.jpg)
(http://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20161126/a875d26fe2b5f20c39419ce71182f1df.jpg)
I'd planned on having the ipac and pacled64 mounted in the center of the cp in view but it leaves me without anywhere to put the coin buttons start buttons and 3 hyperspin controls..Thinking of having the coin and start buttons down side of monitor both sides at the bottom..or source some smaller buttons !!!
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What about putting the buttons on the front of the cp?
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They'd have to be in the middle which I think would look odd. There's no space in front of the joysticks or the buttons on the front panel
Sent from my SM-G935F using Tapatalk
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How about Ultimarc Goldleafs or screw-type Sanwa/Seimitsu buttons?
For comparison, here are a Happ/IL and a Goldleaf installed on 3/4 MDF.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=132565.0;attach=290318;image)
Scott
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Some progress pics
http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/58cdacda351fb/VID-20170318-WA0013.mp4 (http://cloud.tapatalk.com/s/58cdacda351fb/VID-20170318-WA0013.mp4)
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What do you guys think of the orange and white contrast. I'm aiming for a retro look.
If you having noticed it's actually wrapped in car vinyl..
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I like it a lot :cheers: nice details and different use of materials
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Cheers. I'll be doing more wrapping soon hope to have some better pics up
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When using led blinky can you set buttons to stay permanently lit independent of the current pattern animation??
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Making good progress btw..
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170416/fe960695a07f40cf428016e7bb6949a7.jpg)
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coming together great richie.
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coming together great richie.
Thanks Nivo, currently on my 3rd version of the control panel which still has a minor issue so maybe 4th time lucky.
Just sent the top half to a local car sprayer as it's actually cheaper than buying rattle cans!!.
Hoping to reveal the whole thing in maybe a month (or 2)...
Cheers
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Looks like someone is trying to tease us!!
Come on man! Show us some more pics!!!
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Your Plex events came out really nicely. Did you use the heat gun or you have an actual heated bender?
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Your Plex events came out really nicely. Did you use the heat gun or you have an actual heated bender?
I used a company in London called Denny plastics. Cnc engraved and then they bent with a line bender.
I'm waiting for the rear piece to be made before I show anymore pics. Rear piece will just need a slow curve in it.
I've also just sent the top half off to a local car sprayers which I'm really looking forward to see how it turns out.
Thanks for the comments
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Does anybody know of a similar card to my current evga gtx 780 ti that has a lower form factor gpu cooler. I'm really struggling with it's large heat sink.
I could do some mods to get a better fit but was thinking maybe a small downgrade would be better. Card would need to be at least 5mm less in depth..
Can anybody help?
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always water cooling if you need another route
gtx 950, 960, 970, 1050 all have low profile form factor cards as well
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Can you recommend a decent single slot gpu?
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It's the depth that's an issue length and width no problem
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if you require the power of a 780 ti gpu performance you wont find a thing in single slot. you'll need a LP(low power) alternative. Depends on your needs. If you plan on pc gaming then of course youll want the power. If its just an arcade based machine(game wise) any old card will just about do it. If you are in europe, Galax and KFA2 make a GTX 950 LP. From what i understand though they can be hard to find.
GTX 960 or 970 will get you 780 ti results using much less power. They do make low profile versions of those cards but if im not mistaken, are still a bit big in depth. if you can gather info as to what your space constraints are, try and match that up with a low profile card. bad news is those versions cost a bunch more than a standard edition card.
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Thanks for the info nivo..
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Hi..this is where I'm up..
My to do list just keeps getting bigger and bigger...
It's now got 2 pacled64's due to amount of leds!!
There's two big pieces of plexi missing front and rear and another that needs some engraving and drape forming.
I'm hoping to get these ordered soon...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170508/fe90600fb78b62061cc7ce1bb73d84b0.jpg)
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Looking good!
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Finally finished.
Let me know what you think...I`ll get a better camera and upload some better pics..
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more pics
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....
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....
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Wow!! This turned out great. Love the color scheme, lit/etched plexi and the Atari speaker grills.
Also the DK on the back. Well done sir :applaud:
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Looks great. More pics!
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I like it overall. Good balance of transparent areas and opaque, and slick style.
I just don't like DK on the back. Don't know what you were thinking there, he just seems out of place with the retro/Atari theme. Even more so with his new style art.
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I like it overall. Good balance of transparent areas and opaque, and slick style.
I just don't like DK on the back. Don't know what you were thinking there, he just seems out of place with the retro/Atari theme. Even more so with his new style art.
Isn't that the Nintendo64 Donkey Kong Country Kong?
I agree, this is like mixing Nike shoes with an adidas shirt, both good brands but they clash.
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Yeah I consider any of the "3D" versions newer than what you would see from the old 2D versions (DK, DK jr., DK 3).
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Thanks for the comments guys. Yeah the rear panel i wasn't sure about to start with. Unfortunately the guy I hired was an illustrator and not an artist, I'm not knocking him as I really like the image but I was after something from the ground up which unfortunately this is not.
I like it though looks good in my opinion..
The perspex is lit up by 15 leds embedded in the groove that it sits in, think the effect works well..
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I think it's gorgeous! And imho it doesn't care a bit that the DK art maybe doesn't match. So what? It's not like it's some replica, right? It's something YOU like and YOU build!
I take my hat off to you!
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I think it's gorgeous! And imho it doesn't care a bit that the DK art maybe doesn't match. So what? It's not like it's some replica, right? It's something YOU like and YOU build!
I take my hat off to you!
Thanks barry
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I agree on the DK back being a bit out of place but it's a minor thing. The plexi and LED touches are neat, it reminds me of a PC build with a transparent case to show off the hardware which I think is what you were going for. Not sure I love the transparent CP as it almost looks unfinished (and the guts aren't that interesting to me) but it fits the overall theme perfectly. I personally can't stand those chrome Ultimarc buttons for playing but they look cool in your build as they match the chrome in other spots.
Overall it looks great, quality work, nice job! :applaud:
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I agree on the DK back being a bit out of place but it's a minor thing. The plexi and LED touches are neat, it reminds me of a PC build with a transparent case to show off the hardware which I think is what you were going for. Not sure I love the transparent CP as it almost looks unfinished (and the guts aren't that interesting to me) but it fits the overall theme perfectly. I personally can't stand those chrome Ultimarc buttons for playing but they look cool in your build as they match the chrome in other spots.
Overall it looks great, quality work, nice job! :applaud:
Thanks.. the ultralux buttons were shite the first cab I built them in and there the same in this one. It's a trade off I'm ok with though for the nice rgb led and the chrome surrounds.
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Some daylight pics
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170808/a413263f4155ccfdf35708032d5c8396.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170808/3985f1f54f34b5b6b7169965ea710359.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170808/29ca386bbea944e57c1b3e0bd5857ef9.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170808/4cd27311b297992de383f85e57b11b4a.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170808/5754d60e896e6ed7acc49010713f28b6.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170808/e73b9b91fb494d9fa59642a33afa5816.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170808/180b76e0f90701b9129b60c228ca33ad.jpg)
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https://youtu.be/ZNCpTLHuIik
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can you provide the dimensions of the bartop?
would really appreciate it
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https://youtu.be/m0ft8p0cRRY
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Love the translucent CP and purty wiring...
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Started a new build, just a one player mini version..
What do you think so far
(https://preview.ibb.co/m1Vqny/20180618_212725.jpg) (https://ibb.co/cmwVny)
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Start a new thread! I need details!
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Size comparison..
Looks smaller than I thought!!
It should be exactly half scale(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180620/89133c14eaa2de65c56cd544b99f67f7.jpg)
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Size comparison..
Looks smaller than I thought!!
It should be exactly half scale
Looks about right figure half scale would wind up 1/4 the size !
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I'm not sure..I just halved all the measurements..
I bought a small widescreen LCD first but it just looked to small..that screens an 8 inch..
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A 5x5 square has half the perimeter of a 10x10 but only a quarter of the area. A 7x7 has 70% of the perimeter of a 10x10 but half the area.
What to do when you want something "half the size" depends on how small you really want it.
Either way, both the full-size and a mini look really good!
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I'm not sure..I just halved all the measurements..
I bought a small widescreen LCD first but it just looked to small..that screens an 8 inch..
Figure if you take half the height and half the width you wind up with 1/4th the area ( ie. cut a 4x4 board in half in each direction (length and height) and you wind up with 4 2x2 boards )
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I'll take 1/4 scale, looks a lot smaller than half scale..
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Nicely done! How/where did you do the plexi? Having that integrated with the speaker holes was a nice touch.
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Thanks...I had the plexi done at a local sign shop with a cnc machine. Just supplied a simple vector image for the cut out and the engraving on the rear piece.
The bottom plexi is cnc engraved and bent using a hot line bender..
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Hi there. would you have basic measurements for the case? Would love to build one. Thanks
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Any body read custom PC. Super excited to get my build in the back few pages. I know its not on par with most of the builds on here especially lately, , but really chuffed...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190808/f75e7246694a0ed816578dbce239b38e.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190808/e3e183a8c29b808adbcefbb18669c857.jpg)
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Awesome,well deserved :applaud: