The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: deezdrama on July 14, 2015, 05:20:23 pm
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Growing up in the late 80's / early 90's I spent many days dumping quarters in the local arcades. Now as an adult...Ive always wanted an arcade cab but never tackled the DIY approach and an original cab was too big/heavy so was out of question.
I dont know how many "DIY arcade cab", "How to build an arcade cabinet", "DIY MAME cab" articles I read over the years but never committed.
After reading many helpful builds like ChanceKJ's awesome cab I finally gained the confidence to give it a shot. :dizzy: :dizzy: :dizzy:
I couldnt of done it without this forum and all the helpful members who helped with my onslaught of questions!
This build process will be a log of my progress and struggles building a 4 player slim DIY arcade cab from scratch from the perspective of your average - everyday DIY-er.
I didn't have access to fancy equipment and because of this had to do alot of out of the box techniques and solutions using your everyday tools most guys have in their garage already. This is not a full blown step by step guide but just a build process with me asking alot of questions to hopefully help your "average joe" in the future to gain a grasp and the confidence to tackle a project like this. It was a long project but very rewarding in the end. This cabinet is not perfect but Im happy with it considering the common tools used in the process.
UPDATE JAN 2021....
ITS BEEN 5 YEARS SINCE THIS BUILD AND I DECIDED TO COMPLETELY OVERHAUL THIS CAB. New lighting, RGB buttons, rebuilding joysticks, complete rewiring...etc....
TO JUMP TO THE 5 YEAR REBUILD CLICK THIS LINK...
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,146268.msg1730445.html#msg1730445
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OIycdNuUx-c
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C'mon man, use a better title for your official build thread. ;D
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With the amount of stress that a CP takes, I'd figure some way of supporting from the underside. Even if all you did was attach "arms" of 1x4 inside the panels sticking out the front that you could sort of hang the CP on.
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Lol..... Probablly will drive you guys nuts with all my questions...so I apologize in advance.lol
Im 35 and wanted to build a mame cab for at least a decade.
I bought a 4 player Vendetta machine about 5 years ago that fully works and was going to run a pc along side the original setup but the ol' lady said "that huge ugly thing is not going in my living room"
Then I seen chances slim cab 4 player- 32" display cabinet and had a change of plans.
Showed my ol lady a picture of his cab and asked if I build one like this can it go in the living room?....she replied "if it looks like that,ya" lol..... Chance set the bar high, ill be happy if it turns out half as good with half the bells and whistles.
Im going to be realistic and set a winterish finish time frame. So Im going to break it down into sections and just focus on each one at a time so im not asking a million questions for steps im nowhere near yet.
My first step is to finalize my side of cab plan and get the sides cut and then get my monitor and set my width and get the back etc cut and the cab assembled.
So I ran to lowes after I left work and I think the 100+ degree heat I was in allday got to me because I ended up buying 3 sheets of
3/4" x 20" x 72" sanded craft pine sheets.
The furniture grade ply 4x8 sheets were $55 and didnt look as straight as the stuff I got and figured solid wood would take the router slotting better than ply.
Also the plans I looked up for a skinny cab showed 20" width which is what these are....
problem is I didnt consider the ledge that sticks out on the front that the CP sits on.
So..... has anyone just attatched there CP straight to the front of the cab without a CP ledge for it to sit on?
(I think i seen a guy use small monitor flushmount brakets to hand a CP but dont know if I like that idea)
Another thing I noticed when I got home is how many nots are in the boards. Alot of puttying :(
Or I guess I could go with a stained woodgrain cab but wanted kitana,mileena,chun-li side art.
Do you guys think this wood will work? What about the CP ledge issue?
Hopefully will get the sides cut tonight or tomorrow.
C'mon man, use a better title for your official build thread. ;D
you mean you dont shout it out when u get wood? Lol
changed it
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you mean you dont shout it out when u get wood? Lol
I do, every time I come home from Home Depot. I can't resist the urge. I know it's juvenile and the wife sneers at me every time I do it... meh.
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With the amount of stress that a CP takes, I'd figure some way of supporting from the underside. Even if all you did was attach "arms" of 1x4 inside the panels sticking out the front that you could sort of hang the CP on.
Yeah, I guess I could anchor arms to inside the side panels like you suggest, then add another shorter piece butted right up against the side panel ... this would hide the problem and make it look like it was part of the side panels.
Hard to explain and too lazy to 3d sketch it.
Well this isnt a good start.... already rigging things and havnt even started yet.lol.
Thats what I get I guess for trying to go with fancy precut wood. Oh well, Ill make it work.
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I need to start planning what controls I need to order.
Id like led lit buttons and balltop sticks.... any suggestions?
Also debating on if I need spinners? Ive never played a game that used them so dont know if I would be missing out on anything.... probably just skip them. I dont want a clusterf### CP
But yeah..... Ill mostly be playing fighters.... I know theres different types of buttons (have no experience with any of them)
Im not real picky. Just want some led lit ones that will function good for fighters and wont break the bank.
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Thanks for the kind words.
If you're usin my plans/build as a base make sure you take time and read the thread, it will have most answers in there. If you have a question that the thread just can't answer then let me know.
Oh and do yourself a favour. If you want to use my same side panels then download my plans from the build thread, take the PDF file to Staples (or anywhere else where you live that can print on large rolled paper) and have them print you a full size 1-1 template to cut your wood from. You can use spray adhesive or masking tape to attach that to a sheet of 8x4' plywood and cut out your side panels. Easy as pie.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135116.msg1473385.html#msg1473385 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135116.msg1473385.html#msg1473385)
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Here's a quick SketchUp of what I was thinking. Hope it makes sense. I've attached a pic and the sketchup file.
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Here's a quick SketchUp of what I was thinking. Hope it makes sense. I've attached a pic and the sketchup file.
good idea but dont know if it will work with a giant 4 player cp.I guess i could slot it bisquit n glue the ledge piece on... might just go back and get the 4x8 sheets.
Thanks for the kind words.
If you're usin my plans/build as a base make sure you take time and read the thread, it will have most answers in there. If you have a question that the thread just can't answer then let me know.
Oh and do yourself a favour. If you want to use my same side panels then download my plans from the build thread, take the PDF file to Staples (or anywhere else where you live that can print on large rolled paper) and have them print you a full size 1-1 template to cut your wood from. You can use spray adhesive or masking tape to attach that to a sheet of 8x4' plywood and cut out your side panels. Easy as pie.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135116.msg1473385.html#msg1473385 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135116.msg1473385.html#msg1473385)
Yeah, ive been super busy at work,lowes, taking my boy to karate..... Had about an hour of free time to run to lowes earlier, planned on getting 4x8 sheets of ply but $55 just seemed too much compared to the solid, planed flat and sanded hobby planks I got.
I was ill prepared and didnt have dimesions on me had to check out that sketch on your thread for general dimensions. I'll have to see if I can add the CP ledge....Once I get home im going to download your files.
I dont have any cad programs... doesnt google have a free sketch program? Will it open in that?
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You won't need a CAD program. Like i said just take the PDF files to a staples and have them print them on the largest roll printer they have. Use those wood panels you bought for the CP or something. overall I used three, 4x8 sheets of cabinet grade ply that cost like $75 a sheet. It's not cheap. But remember you'll have a better end result if you avoid cutting corners (literally).
Here are the rough dimensions minus a 4° tilt in the CP ledge and the rounded corners. You'll find both of those in the PDF.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3674/10340811855_7f4831cb85_c.jpg)
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You won't need a CAD program. Like i said just take the PDF files to a staples and have them print them on the largest roll printer they have. Use those wood panels you bought for the CP or something. overall I used three, 4x8 sheets of cabinet grade ply that cost like $75 a sheet. It's not cheap. But remember you'll have a better end result if you avoid cutting corners (literally).
Here are the rough dimensions minus a 4° tilt in the CP ledge and the rounded corners. You'll find both of those in the PDF.
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3674/10340811855_7f4831cb85_c.jpg)
cool man, looks like with the wood I got I will only be missing that small 2 1/4" angled ledge right under the CP. I think I will be alright with that.
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Hey Chance.... hopefully you see this, got a ? for ya.
In your thread before you began you had 2 sets of side panel plans.
Im using the set that didnt have the ledge below the control panel because that ledgeless design fits my 20" x 6ft sheets of pine perfect.
Anyway... before I cut I just want to make sure a 32" lcd will fit in here.
All the height dimensions on most 32" tv's Ive looked at have a height of around 20" but the plans call for 1' 6 7/16" ... or 18 7/16"
Just want to make sure a 32" lcd with 20" will fit in there. I know the panel will be recessed back a bit and that might buy an inch or two.... just wanted to double check.
Or if anyone else can chime in its appreciated.
oh..... in the pic I got 20" pulled out on the tape for reference to height of standard 32" displays.
edit.....sorry---my stupid phone is uploading the pics 90* off
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The height of the cab (in this case) will have zero issues with the display. Make a cardboard cutout of the thickness and height of your display and place it on top of your sheet of wood.
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The height of the cab (in this case) will have zero issues with the display. Make a cardboard cutout of the thickness and height of your display and place it on top of your sheet of wood.
Im not sure which exact 32" model I will get yet but most heights ive looked at range from 19-20"
The angled display length part of the panel is 18 7/16" im guessing it will work fine as the bezel of the tv will be hidden.
Will probably get the tv this weekend.
I need to get more wood,castors, and a few things.....
I hope to make some progress this weekend
Is there dimensions or plans for the control panel anywhere?
Are they in your cad files?
Thanks
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Not very exciting but its a start.
Dont have a plunge router yet so cloned them with resin sanding pads on my grinder.
It turned out better than I thought considering what I used (30 year old sears skillsaw, and a grinder lmao)
I can improvise though. I noticed a slight bow in both panels.... hopefully it wont throw anything off.
I need to build a track for my circular saw so I can rip the rest of the pieces.
Hopefully will make some progress this weekend.
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As long as your cuts are square you shouldn't have to worry about the slight bow in the panels, just make sure you clamp/glue/pilot/screw everything and take your time.
Sorry, I don't have the CP layout available. Try this link:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,83312.msg945960.html#msg945960 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,83312.msg945960.html#msg945960)
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As long as your cuts are square you shouldn't have to worry about the slight bow in the panels, just make sure you clamp/glue/pilot/screw everything and take your time.
Sorry, I don't have the CP layout available. Try this link:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,83312.msg945960.html#msg945960 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,83312.msg945960.html#msg945960)
ok.... if you ever got a minute and remember .... Id really appreciate if you could measure the length of the cp... if I knew the overall length, I could figure out the dimensions fairly close. If not, no biggie....Ill just wing it or design something different.
Thanks
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Jarrett's first image is 1-to-1. Have it printed off in black and white on roll paper (should be only a couple bucks at staples) you can use it as a template. I would strongly suggest doing that.
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Ok.... I had time to throw his pic in photoshop and make a cutting template out of it.
I removed some things, moved things around, and added some slope to the p1 p2 buttons.
When I selected the button/stick/ball areas and stroked them to a new layer I stroked at 5px width.... I hope that picks up good on print.
Might see if my engineer can print this out on his blueprint printer at work but not sure what width his printer can handle.... I dont want to loose scale and hes the type of engineer that keeps a handfull of shims in his back pocket lmao.... dont want to deal with staples or anything local and deal with the weird stares lol
Whats some good options for print services on the net?
I want to start on my art but need to catch some sleep and get supplies in the AM and get this cab knocked out.
(http://s29.postimg.org/ep2fy4p6b/mame_ACC_CP.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/ep2fy4p6b/)
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Haha, don't over think it. I bet that will be $5 at staples you'll be in and out in 8 minutes. I print all my draft artwork and side panel blueprints there now. Never get an odd look. Just people blown away that this is an actual hobby.
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Haha, don't over think it. I bet that will be $5 at staples you'll be in and out in 8 minutes. I print all my draft artwork and side panel blueprints there now. Never get an odd look. Just people blown away that this is an actual hobby.
what media do u use to get them the file? Email,sd,usb?
What do you say... you just want a "to scale" rough print ?
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Oh.... and does my button layout look ok?
To me it looks like the whole 7 button set for p1 / p2 could be rotated clockwise a bit but i dont know.
And is the 4 mame buttons enough for mapping to things? This is my first cab and clueless.
Ive ran hyperspin before and an older mame years and years ago but have forgotten everything
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oops double post
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Just a USB drive, throw the file on there and tell them you'd like it printed on the large format roll paper 1 to 1. You don't want them to scale down the image.
The buttons and layout you choose is QUITE subjective and commenting on it will start a massive dibate that I'm not wiling to be a part of. :) read a few threads and look at a few builds in the "completed builds" section. Maybe think about the games you really want to play in it and go from there.
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Heres what Ive came up with sofar. I feel like its missing lines.
I try to select the border of the panel then scale the selection in some so I can stroke the selection to make some pinstripes around the perimeter of the panel....but it only lets me distort the selection- It wont let me scale if that makes any sense. I havnt used illustrator in a decade. Anyone know of an easy way to add lines to this in photoshop?
This is my first time designing a control panel so If anyone has any suggestions or anything to make it better let me know.
(http://s18.postimg.org/hg5cxbocl/draft_CP.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/hg5cxbocl/)
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Heres what Ive came up with sofar. I feel like its missing lines.
I try to select the border of the panel then scale the selection in some so I can stroke the selection to make some pinstripes around the perimeter of the panel....but it only lets me distort the selection- It wont let me scale if that makes any sense. I havnt used illustrator in a decade. Anyone know of an easy way to add lines to this in photoshop?
This is my first time designing a control panel so If anyone has any suggestions or anything to make it better let me know.
(http://s18.postimg.org/hg5cxbocl/draft_CP.jpg) (http://postimg.org/image/hg5cxbocl/)
after getting some much needed sleep, I have some ideas for this CP that should make it look better, also.... have ideas for sideart that I want to work on but its all going to have to wait- I need to get going on building the cab so off to get some materials.
I have a question. Ive seen some people install there CP art with and without plexi ontop of it. Whats the pros cons of those two choices and if I got with plexi do i need to use a thinner board for cp top so that I end up with 3/4" for the t molding?
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Um, ugh. I know it's not positive, but that was my first reaction. Especially with the mud flap trackball art.
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Um, ugh. I know it's not positive, but that was my first reaction. Especially with the mud flap trackball art.
Lmao, ya its not going to be for everybody...
Got about 6 hours in today on it, didnt get nearly as much done as I thought I would , but I would rather take my time and make sure its done right even if it takes untill winter.
I got most of the glue boards in but cant install the front ones untill I get my 32" in there.
Ive been trying to cheap out on having to buy a router but looks like t-molding is the way to go. Guess ill get a cheapy ....as long as it lasts to finish this project ill be ok with it.
Whats the consensus on the CP top piece? 3/4" and vinyl, or 1/2" and a 1/4" plexi over it?
Anybody use 2" castors before? Think they will handle the load? They are rated at 90lbs ea.
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My advice on theme... pick a theme you like, then make it look like it was a dedicated version of that theme. Look at pictures of a bunch of different cabs, real, original cabs, for ideas that you like. in the end, you'll be happier, and your cab will look better.
My $0.02. :cheers:
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My advice on theme... pick a theme you like, then make it look like it was a dedicated version of that theme. Look at pictures of a bunch of different cabs, real, original cabs, for ideas that you like. in the end, you'll be happier, and your cab will look better.
My $0.02. :cheers:
Oh ya... My racy art taste will probably not be liked... but I guess as long as I like it ,thats all that matters. Ive got an old buddy who is a glass blower and neon tube builder. Hes kinda went under since the tech advance of LED's but ive got some ideas that I might get with him about. Also thinking about maybe a UV marquee....just dont know yet.
Anyway made some decent progress today. Got the base built with castors installed.... build my $10 version of a track saw (worth its weight in gold) and ripped the bottom base, middle shelf, and the CP crossmember.
Glued and screwed the cab together and its sitting square.... happy with the results sofar.
I went to menards instead of lowes today.... Much better plywood options and much cheaper. Now I wish I would of went there to begin with and used the ply I just bought for the sides... oh well, Ill have to bondo or woodputty all the knots in the sides but it will be alright.
Ive got 2 dual coin doors/mechs in my old Vendetta cab, Im wondering if I should desecrate the cab for them and try to add blue coin return buttons.
Anyone know what joysticks this old 4p Vendetta cab has in it?
Chance...... If you read this..... Did you put a slant in your side panels for the CP or did you angle the CP itself?
Mines already square at the side panels so Im going to have to build my CP with an angle to it.
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My advice on theme... pick a theme you like, then make it look like it was a dedicated version of that theme. Look at pictures of a bunch of different cabs, real, original cabs, for ideas that you like. in the end, you'll be happier, and your cab will look better.
My $0.02. :cheers:
Oh ya... My racy art taste will probably not be liked... but I guess as long as I like it ,thats all that matters.
Very true. Good luck with your build.
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This finished side panel art has a 4° slant to it. WAY less complicated then making a slant on the CP box.
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This finished side panel art has a 4° slant to it. WAY less complicated then making a slant on the CP box.
yeah.... I feared having to slant each piece of the CP.... but its all I can do now. Will take a little longer but ill get it.
Whats the minimum clearance needed under the CP? I mean like.... what sticks out the most and how much. Im thinking it will be the Trackball but not sure.
Anyway.... did you plexi over your CP or left the vinyl? Im not sure if I thould use 1/2" ply and 1/4" plexi or just 3/4" ply and bare vinyl
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You do know this is all documented in my build thread, right? :D
No plexi, but I did have the printer use matte vinyl laminate on the art. I think my CP box is 4" on the inside. I'm not at home right now I can't check. But I'm pretty sure that's in the build thread.
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You do know this is all documented in my build thread, right? :D
No plexi, but I did have the printer use matte vinyl laminate on the art. I think my CP box is 4" on the inside. I'm not at home right now I can't check. But I'm pretty sure that's in the build thread.
My bad man, Ive read through your build page by page at least 3 times. Its a long thread.... ive tried to take notes on stuff I think I will need to know but some details ive forgotten or couldnt find.
Just figured it would be fresh in your head man, I told you....youd regret offering me to "just ask" if i had any questions in my other thread....lmao
I understand though.... im sure its a pain in the a. -- to deal with mame cab noobs. This is the only reason Im documenting my build....maybee it will help someone in the future.
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i regret nothing. never do.
just pointing it out in case you're in a hurry.
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Just wanted to add some details about this diy track saw for others who are broke or trying to build a cab and dont have $500 to buy one or have access to a table saw.
Its a 1/2" by 6" piece of aspen I bought at menards. Screwed a piece of $10 aluminum angle to the edge. I think my piece of angle (already had from another project) was 1"x 1".
An inch was too tall for my circular saw to clear so had to cutoff 1/2" . I think a 1/2" x1/2" piece of aluminum angle should work for most circular saws. I drilled holes in the angle and fastened it to the edge of the piece of 6" aspen. The angle gives the circular a straight edge to ride against and make straight cuts.
The first time you run it... it will cut off any excess material from the aspen 6" piece. After that, you can rip perfectly straight cuts in plywood by just lining the edge of the aspen track with your cut marks.
Works great.
Figured it may help someone without access to a tablesaw and on a budget.
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This is a good tip for those really long cuts. But for what it's worth, you can actually build the fence with even less parts:
Just cut off one side of the factory-cut straight edge of the board. Then flip it over, screw it into itself making that factory edge the new fence. Then rip off the excess. Final result looks like this:
(http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h379/vwalbridge/edge.jpg)
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This is a good tip for those really long cuts. But for what it's worth, you can actually build the fence with even less parts:
Just cut off one side of the factory-cut straight edge of the board. Then flip it over, screw it into itself making that factory edge the new fence. Then rip off the excess. Final result looks like this:
(http://i1106.photobucket.com/albums/h379/vwalbridge/edge.jpg)
Now why didnt I think of that :banghead:
excellent tip!
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There's been a saw board sticky here on this board since 2005... :dizzy:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,43568.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,43568.0.html)
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There's been a saw board sticky here on this board since 2005... :dizzy:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,43568.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,43568.0.html)
sorry.... didnt know. Was googling all kinds of "mame cabinet track saw" type stuff and never seen it.
Just trying to consolidate my adventure building this thing. There wasnt alot of slim cab builds I could find using a 32" tv so Im sure people in the future might find this through google. I searched and searched for 32" slim cab builds and it wasnt untill I found chances build thread that I felt I had enough details to start. So thanks to chances top notch build and documentation I grew the balls to start my own. I dont have alot of funds so might have to cut some corners but hopefully end up with something "living room worthy and how I went about it might help someone.
Im already thinking of an idea for a diy t- slot cutter..... but if I need a router for sanwa jlf sticks then I probably will buy a router anyway
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There's been a saw board sticky here on this board since 2005... :dizzy:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,43568.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,43568.0.html)
sorry.... didnt know. Was googling all kinds of "mame cabinet track saw" type stuff and never seen it.
Just trying to consolidate my adventure building this thing. There wasnt alot of slim cab builds I could find using a 32" tv so Im sure people in the future might find this through google. I searched and searched for 32" slim cab builds and it wasnt untill I found chances build thread that I felt I had enough details to start. So thanks to chances top notch build and documentation I grew the balls to start my own. I dont have alot of funds so might have to cut some corners but hopefully end up with something "living room worthy and how I went about it might help someone.
Im already thinking of an idea for a diy t- slot cutter..... but if I need a router for sanwa jlf sticks then I probably will buy a router anyway
Don't cut corners on the slot cutting. You can get a good cheap Ryobi router at Home Depot. It's the one tool I'll never regret buying.
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There's been a saw board sticky here on this board since 2005... :dizzy:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,43568.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,43568.0.html)
sorry.... didnt know. Was googling all kinds of "mame cabinet track saw" type stuff and never seen it.
Just trying to consolidate my adventure building this thing. There wasnt alot of slim cab builds I could find using a 32" tv so Im sure people in the future might find this through google. I searched and searched for 32" slim cab builds and it wasnt untill I found chances build thread that I felt I had enough details to start. So thanks to chances top notch build and documentation I grew the balls to start my own. I dont have alot of funds so might have to cut some corners but hopefully end up with something "living room worthy and how I went about it might help someone.
Im already thinking of an idea for a diy t- slot cutter..... but if I need a router for sanwa jlf sticks then I probably will buy a router anyway
Don't cut corners on the slot cutting. You can get a good cheap Ryobi router at Home Depot. It's the one tool I'll never regret buying.
ok.... ill probably need one for my control panel. I think im going for sanwa jlf sticks and have no idea yet whats all needed to install them
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I think im going for sanwa jlf sticks and have no idea yet whats all needed to install them
Check out the list of 6 mounting techniques here (http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ#Joysticks) in the FAQ.
Scott
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I think im going for sanwa jlf sticks and have no idea yet whats all needed to install them
Check out the list of 6 mounting techniques here (http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ#Joysticks) in the FAQ.
Scott
thanks for the link...Ill check it out.
Well.... I hit up Staples after work since at work.... the engineer acted like he didnt think he could print it at 100% scale and he has a 48" wide roll printer so I know it was possible.
Staples charged $8 ea.... I grabbed 2 copies.
Then I got home,mowed, and hit the garage to work on the cab. Sat there for about an hour getting nothing done wondering how I would pull off the 45* angled cuts.... Was getting discouraged and almost gave up for the day but after a couple beers I dove in :cheers:
Had to get creative to get all the 45* angle pieces cut right using only hand tools :timebomb:
Its not on the level of some of you more experienced builders but it turned out better than I thought considering the tools I was stuck using.
Checked my box of hole saws and 2.5" was the biggest I had so had to layout a pattern and cut alot of vent holes. Will get fan covers for them or metal netting from inside- not sure which yet.
I noticed I overlooked leaving a gap between glueblocks at the top marquee area for the marquee light backstop, Ive decided Ill just wait untill the cabs fully assembled and measur/cut out a backstop for the light out of thin mdf or something, then cover it and any gaps with alum tape .
Pretty satisfying and fun hobby sofar I must admit.
edit+++++++
Oh..... the piece of wood you see sticking out of the top is just a scrap piece i laid up there for the rim/tire to sit on....needed weight to help close the small gap between the 2 angled pieces untill the glue sets. I was too scared to try and screw it- ply to ply with a funky angle, figured it would splinter out.
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Going to pick up a router friday.
Does it matter between a fixed base and plunge base?
Is my assumption right that a fixed base only will do a certain depth and that a plunge base I would be able to set the depth?
What bit would I need to do my CP ? Just a straight cut bit? Using 3/4" ...do most people just cut out 1/2" for joysticks?
The slotting bit I need is a 3/16" or 1/8" ?
Thinking about getting this one....
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000IEFIBO/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?qid=1437559387&sr=1-9&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B000IEFIBO/ref=mp_s_a_1_9?qid=1437559387&sr=1-9&pi=AC_SX110_SY165_QL70)
Or do you think a Ryobi would last longer?
thanks
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A fixed-base router will allow you to set the depth of cut, but you'd typically have to start the cut from "outside" the piece (or in the center of a pre-cut opening); a plunge base will allow you to start the cut in the middle of the piece without existing holes. So, for example, if you needed to rebate the backside (or the top) of the control panel to accommodate your joystick mounting plates, you'd need a plunge base; if you're cutting dadoes (or t-slots), then a fixed base would do just fine. Of course, with a plunge base, you can typically lock it in at a specific depth and treat it more or less like a fixed base, but depending on the models, the depth adjustment options might differ from base to base.
My two cents. Someone with more knowledge and/or experience will be able to elaborate or correct any misstatements, I'm sure! :)
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You can actually have the best of both worlds if you want. Bosch makes a fixed-base that also slides into a separate plunger if you want:
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVSPK-4-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00005RHPD/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1437576470&sr=8-8&keywords=router+tool (http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVSPK-4-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00005RHPD/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1437576470&sr=8-8&keywords=router+tool)
DeWalt makes one as well:
http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW618PK-12-AMP-Fixed-Base-Variable-Speed/dp/B00006JKXE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1437576784&sr=8-3&keywords=router+tool (http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW618PK-12-AMP-Fixed-Base-Variable-Speed/dp/B00006JKXE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1437576784&sr=8-3&keywords=router+tool)
They may seem expensive but they are worth every penny in my opinion. Extremely versatile tools. I don't know how anyone builds a cab without one.
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I actually have the Bosch 1617EVSPK :) It's so much fun -- if only I had more excuses to put it to use! :(
You can actually have the best of both worlds if you want. Bosch makes a fixed-base that also slides into a separate plunger if you want:
http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVSPK-4-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00005RHPD/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1437576470&sr=8-8&keywords=router+tool (http://www.amazon.com/Bosch-1617EVSPK-4-Horsepower-Variable-Collets/dp/B00005RHPD/ref=sr_1_8?ie=UTF8&qid=1437576470&sr=8-8&keywords=router+tool)
DeWalt makes one as well:
http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW618PK-12-AMP-Fixed-Base-Variable-Speed/dp/B00006JKXE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1437576784&sr=8-3&keywords=router+tool (http://www.amazon.com/DEWALT-DW618PK-12-AMP-Fixed-Base-Variable-Speed/dp/B00006JKXE/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1437576784&sr=8-3&keywords=router+tool)
They may seem expensive but they are worth every penny in my opinion. Extremely versatile tools. I don't know how anyone builds a cab without one.
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The slotting bit I need is a 3/16" or 1/8" ?
Have a look at T-molding.com This page in particular tells you the exact slot cutter size you need for the "spine" size of the t-molding:
http://www.t-molding.com/installation-tools.html (http://www.t-molding.com/installation-tools.html)
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I need some opinions...
I put my 4p vendetta cab on craigslist for 250, Ive had alot of $150 offers.
Debating if I should sell it or keep it for the coin doors.
It has 2 dual coin door/mechs , and 2 of the doors for accessing the coin buckets, and 2 coin buckets.
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I see coin mechs are pricey.Could these be used on my mame cab?
Are the coin doors just for looks/novelty more than function?
I mean dont most cabs with coin doors also have coin buttons on cp?
selling it would give me a little cash to throw at the 32" tv i need , but if coin doors are desireable than id probably save money using these than buying new.
Whats your thoughts on coin doors? Do you actually use them? Or does the quarter feeding get old and eventually bypassed?
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I see coin mechs are pricey.Could these be used on my mame cab?
Yes. Unless they have been abused and the switch doesn't work on them. (But then you can just replace that too)
Are the coin doors just for looks/novelty more than function?
I love the look of coin doors because they add to the charm and authentic look. But they can also function just the same.
I mean don't most cabs with coin doors also have coin buttons on cp?
Yes, but even that is up to you. I'd definitely put coin buttons on the cp. You will disappoint yourself later if you don't.
Whats your thoughts on coin doors? Do you actually use them? Or does the quarter feeding get old and eventually bypassed?
Feeding quarters gets old very quickly and using a coin button is the way to go. However, it's fun sometimes to show a friend that the coin mech works just like a real arcade.
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As far as coin doors go, I have a friend who's reserved an over/under setup for me (not sure if the mechs work, but I'll fix them or get new), and whenver I get my stuff together, my goal is to have my kids earn tokens which they can then spend on the machine.
I, of course, get freeplay >:D
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Coin doors on any arcade project. Otherwise, it's just a piece of furniture that can play video games. :cheers:
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Ok.... i dont want to skimp on the coin mechs.
The question now is....
Would you rob the vendetta cab of the coin doors, or sell the vendetta cab for $150 to go torwards new coin doors?
do all 4 player games require 4 coin mechs or could one get by on 4p games with 1 coin mech?
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do all 4 player games require 4 coin mechs or could one get by on 4p games with 1 coin mech?
Some games require each player have their own mech/coin input , like TMNT. You can somewhat get around this by mapping 1 coin input to all 4 players. This will create the issue of , for example, all 4 turtles getting credits when only 1 to 3 people are playing.
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do all 4 player games require 4 coin mechs or could one get by on 4p games with 1 coin mech?
Some games require each player have their own mech/coin input , like TMNT. You can somewhat get around this by mapping 1 coin input to all 4 players. This will create the issue of , for example, all 4 turtles getting credits when only 1 to 3 people are playing.
I could live with that solong as it dont drop all 4 players in game as soon as they get credits. Know of any games that do that?
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do all 4 player games require 4 coin mechs or could one get by on 4p games with 1 coin mech?
Some games require each player have their own mech/coin input , like TMNT. You can somewhat get around this by mapping 1 coin input to all 4 players. This will create the issue of , for example, all 4 turtles getting credits when only 1 to 3 people are playing.
WHAT ABOUT OMEGA RACE BRAH!!!!
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Got the top back panel cut and screwed in, need more ply.
I had a piece of the 3/4 pine left so figured Id use it for the CP top.
Laid out the template and centerpunched everything. Then came the rookie mistake...... :angry: :angry: :angry:
I didnt clamp the sheet down and on my first button hole when it broke through it grabbed and tore a chunk out of the hole. Was going to quit but figured I would finish it and use it as practice.
After clamping I didnt have any issues..... So what can I do? Fill the area that tore out with putty and then shape that button hole with my dremel and a sanding drum?
I drilled the holes on an old table so had a surface under the CP and figured that would stop splintering on the backside....It didnt :angry:
The angle grinder and a resin sanding pad made short work of removing the splintered areas and its smooth as a babys but t , Now though theres a slight dishing on the backside of the button groups, Will this cause any issues with buttons sitting flush?
Oh I tried the spade drilling halfway then flipping and finished from other side on a scrap piece- and it splintered even worse.
It looks fine now that I sanded the splinters away but had to dish out about 1/16" of material so just worried about that causing issues.
edit..... also.... does the stick holes look too close to the buttons? :badmood:
( this is how the template was I got online, I thought they looked too close but figured once it was drilled/cut out at 100% size it would be ok but they still look close to me.
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Don't worry in the slightest about the backside. I mean, you'd literally need to run a table saw across the button clusters for it to make any difference.
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do all 4 player games require 4 coin mechs or could one get by on 4p games with 1 coin mech?
Some games require each player have their own mech/coin input , like TMNT. You can somewhat get around this by mapping 1 coin input to all 4 players. This will create the issue of , for example, all 4 turtles getting credits when only 1 to 3 people are playing.
WHAT ABOUT OMEGA RACE BRAH!!!!
:laugh2: :laugh2: :laugh2:
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splintering on the backside.
You probably already realize this now but next time use a Forstner Drill Bit (http://www.amazon.com/Freud-FB-107-7-Piece-Forstner-Drill/dp/B0000225ZO/ref=lp_552398_1_5?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1437667164&sr=1-5)
Of course, a Forstner bit will not stop the splintering, only a scrap board on the backside can stop that. But a Forster bit does a more elegant job and is easier to control than a spade bit.
does the stick holes look too close to the buttons?
Hard to tell for sure in the pictures, but they do look a little tight to me. Specifically the 2 layouts in the center of the control panel. I'd be really sure you are ok with that arrangement. Now is the time .
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Anyone know the average (or their) distance from center of stick to edge of closest button?
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Well center of joystick hole (5/8") to center of the closest button hole (30mm) on my design is 2.97"
Center of joystick hole to edge of button hole(30mm) is 2.38" (approx 60mm)
Looking at your pics I think you are good to go
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Well center of joystick hole (5/8") to center of the closest button hole (30mm) on my design is 2.97"
Center of joystick hole to edge of button hole(30mm) is 2.38" (approx 60mm)
Looking at your pics I think you are good to go
appreciate it !
I will check mine when I get home from this sweatshop
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Center to center I only got about 2.75"
My old vendetta cab has 3.5"
I dont understand why with such a big CP someone laid it out that close.
Its going to have to work I guess
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Center to center I only got about 2.75"
My old vendetta cab has 3.5"
I dont understand why with such a big CP someone laid it out that close.
Its going to have to work I guess
Because you're planning to squeeze 4 mofos around that thing?
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Center to center I only got about 2.75"
My old vendetta cab has 3.5"
I dont understand why with such a big CP someone laid it out that close.
Its going to have to work I guess
Because you're planning to squeeze 4 mofos around that thing?
Lol true man true.... I think It will be ok, Im not going to change things to find out the trackball wont fit down the road.
I cut the CP out.... the 2 radius cuts called for a 3" hole saw but biggest I have is 2.5" Still need to get a 3" for the trackball.
Anyway cut it out with my janky skillsaw and it turned out great. Except that one chipped button hole- drives me nuts seeing it :banghead:
Will get putty and more ply this weekend.
Mocked the CP up on the cab..... finally!.....starting to look like something :applaud: Still.... A long way to go.
I have a new found respect for cabinet builders. Its a long detail orientated project. Fun but daunting for me as its my first build and still clueless about the proper way to do everything like mounting the sticks etc.... before I even jump that far ahead I still need to complete my CP and it has alot of angles and I have no miter :dunno
To make things worse...I got in a hurry to start the project and somehow missed Chances comment that he cut his sides to hold the CP at a slight angle so now must angle my CP frame :banghead:
I was lined up to sell my vendetta cab for $225 this weekend but now having second thoughts. I just found out about those 500-in-1.... 619-in-1 .....xxxx-in-1 jamma boards and think it would be nice to install one in the vendetta cab and just move the p3,p4 buttons to players 1 and 2 giving both players 6. Then Id have a beater machine for the garage and it would hold me over while I took my time finishing this project.
Could also borrow one of the old cabs dual coin doors for this new project.
But then another part of me says to sell it and use the money to get the 32" screen I need. Im tight on funds right now with 4 kids going back to school soon. Uggg....what to do.
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oooops double post
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...somehow missed Chances comment that he cut his sides to hold the CP at a slight angle so now must angle my CP frame.
Yeh, haha. That 4° angle is in the finished plans I have in my thread that are available for download. You're building from my "pre-production" plans, remeber. To save time and pulling your hair out trying to design an angled CP box, I'd put a protractor up to the sides and add that slant to the ledges before going any further. Put it on its side and just trim them up with a scroll saw.
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...somehow missed Chances comment that he cut his sides to hold the CP at a slight angle so now must angle my CP frame.
Yeh, haha. That 4° angle is in the finished plans I have in my thread that are available for download. You're building from my "pre-production" plans, remeber. To save time and pulling your hair out trying to design an angled CP box, I'd put a protractor up to the sides and add that slant to the ledges before going any further. Put it on its side and just trim them up with a scroll saw.
Yeah... I thought about doing something like that problem is Ive got that CP cross support board already glued/screwed in and another strip glued/screwed to the front of that.
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Pull the screws, then take a skil saw and cut them off. Problem solved. :D
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Pull the screws, then take a skil saw and cut them off. Problem solved. :D
Ill probably give a go at the angled frame with the scrap ply I have...... and when that dont work (lol) ill go back and angle my side panels
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Whats the best thing to use one that notched out button hole? Bought some wood filler but dont know if it will work.
I have some marine epoxy putty.... think I should use that? Or should I get bondo?
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The notching is on the under/back side isn't it? If so, don't worry about it. The nuts have enough surface area that they really don't care, combined with the surface area of the button bezel... LOADS of sins just disappear.
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The notching is on the under/back side isn't it? If so, don't worry about it. The nuts have enough surface area that they really don't care, combined with the surface area of the button bezel... LOADS of sins just disappear.
The first hole I drilled before I clamped the piece jumped on me and tore a chunk out of the button hole making it oblong I dont think the button bezel will cover it.
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Worst case, if the bezel doesn't cover it, is to just use some wood filler or bondo. LOVE me some bondo, fixes more screwups than you can shake a joystick at.
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The few times I've done that, I use wood filler. But like Slippy says, see if the button bezel (or your artwork) covers it up. Unless you're that anal-retentive, it shouldn't have an effect on anything.
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Spent the whole day making sawdust and emptying beer bottles :cheers: I will be sooooooo glad when the woodworking phase is over!!! :dizzy:
First I cut out the front bottom panel, the rear bottom panel, and then the front door. What type of hinge will work with this? (see bottom pic)
Then I used filler to fix the chipped out button hole, it worked pretty good....
Spent most of the day mapping out my bottom CP base and sides of the box.
Brainstorming I think I came up with an idea that will work pretty good to get the slant I need in my CP.
I plotted out the base to be wrapped with the sides instead of sides sitting ontop of the CP base.
Cut my box strips and I used a grinder/ sanding pad to angle the ends. This worked fast and easy.
I covered the outside perimeter of the CP base with clear packing tape to prevent glue from sticking to it and built my box around the base- gluing and pinning with finishing nails.
Once it is cured I will remove the base and flip the box over, the side that sat on the floor will be flush and will be the top that the CP top sits on. Then I can insert the base back in the box and I will set my height in the rear of the CP and pin the CP base inside the box with 2 screws, then the CP base will be able to freely move inside the box like a hinge. This will let me swivel the front down to get the angle I want, glue and screw it, while keeping a flush top and all the excess at the bottom- below the base that I will remove with skill saw and sand flush with grinder.
Then I can use filler, and straighten/shape all the box edges.
Is a piano hinge what I need or is there other more preferred alternatives?
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The first pic represents the sum of man hours Ive got in this sofar :cheers: Plenty more to come Im sure.
The pics show how I angled my CP its kind of hard to explain without pics.
The frame fits around the base. I found the height I needed in the back of the CP and pinned the base there with a couple screws.
The front then is allowed to pivot, found my depth I wanted (ended up being an inch shorter than the back and pinned it there after adding glue to the sides while the base was pivoted up.
Then I went around the perimeter lining everything up and getting rid of the bow in the base... glued and screwed. ;D
You can see in one of the pics how all my excess framing was left on the underside of the CP. I marked it all around where it needed cutoff using my combo square as a depth gauge.
Zipped of the excess with the skillsaw, then used my grinder/ resin sanding pad to smooth/flush the bit that was left.
An angle grinder with these resin sanding pads are awesome for removing large amounts of material quickly.... yet you can use it to shape, sand,and smooth a lot of detail with a light hand.
Used wood filler and its drying now. Test fit it and realized I needed to angle the small control panel back shoulder area on the cabs sides since the back of the CP was not 90° angle.... the grinder took care of that too, and just in time as the motor is almost burnt out.
Tomorrow I will finish sand the CP and need to get a piano hinge....are these available at places like menards,lowes,etc?
going to grab some aluminum angle for the marquee area and work on that.
Im scared to dive into the speaker panel area until I got my screen in so I know how deep it needs to go etc.... but im going to have to wait till the next paycheck to get the 32" tv.
Im worried about the sticks,buttons,trackball fitting under the hood now. The CP only has like 1 1/2" under the the panel in the front... 2 1/2" in the rear. I might have to do some serious routing out on both pieces....might even have to cut some windows out of the CP base :(
EDIT......................................................................
..... I think I will be going with the u-track pearl trackball. Seems the base under the CP is 2" so I will probably need to remove a small area of material underneath for the edge closest to the front of the CP.
Ultimarks site states.... "Optional Full-Speed USB interface, or connect directly to our Mini-PAC or Opti-PAC interfaces"....
Whats any differences or pros or cons going with the usb interface vs something like the opti-pac?
Should I have dedicated buttons for the trackball? Should I be setting up the trackball as a mouse?
I planned on getting modded led sanwa jlf sticks and sanwa led buttons from paradise due to reading they were great for fighting games which I will be playing alot of, but looks like I might have to cheap out and get paradises $2 LED buttons and there noname LED sticks that are $25. I grew up with happ sticks and buttons but never liked how stiff they were and the long stiff throw on the happ buttons.
Wanting cheap, good,sensitive controls (are these 3 possible) also LED illuminated..... Is there any other alternatives I should consider?
The zippy sticks seem to be decent as they are based off the Seimitsu LS-32 sticks and the price is right but then I wouldnt have LED's...just wondered how those paradise noname led sticks compared.
Ive never bought or used any controls other than the classic old happ stuff so any suggesstions here are appreciated.
So..... getting the u-track with usb or opti-pac (dont know the difference)
An I-PAC 4
still need to decide on sticks and buttons
Im assuming i need a crapton of wire in the 20/22 gage size, disconnects,shrinkwrap........ anything else I am forgetting for the CP besides the start/coin/admin buttons?
I would like to get my TV this week and the controls but maybe only able to choose one or the other. :badmood:
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No input on controls? ???
c,mon guys im clueless besides limited conflicting comments ive found online :dizzy:
Well... Heres my second attempt at my CP art. I toned it down ...lol... and am going with a MK vs SF theme.... I know, I wont win any awards for originality on my theme but those are 2 of the games I remember waiting in line to play for hours as a youngin just to step up with the older kids and get whooped in 10 seconds, then back to the end of the line again...lol.
Any input on things to remove,add,change, etc wont be taken harshly and are appreciated.
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Hmmm. Controls are very subjective these days. I almost feel like some people are afraid to give their 2 cents because they want to avoid having to start a debate that takes off to a bad place. (Worst case).
What worked for me was JSticks and a trackball from Ultimarc, and IL buttons and LED's from ParadiseArcade.
I'd say go with a couple Ultimate I/O from Ultimarc. To control your lighting and button input. grab four simple and cost effective J-sticks from them too. Maybe even to keep things simple buy their button LEDs as well. And maybe buttons too, or look at modifying IL Buttons from Paradise, or CLASSX buttons from Groovy Game Gear. I'm a big fan of those CLASSX leaf switch buttons.
Really though, the best advise I can give you is: DONT OVER THINK IT. A pair of Ultimarc UltimateI/O boards is a good place to start. Asking everyone why you should go J-Stick vs. True leaf vs. Sanwa vs whatever will give you a spinning headache.
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Hmmm. Controls are very subjective these days.
These days? Try "the history of this site".
But I agree with you. Don't over think it. You seem to be a fighter fan - get fighter sticks.
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Any input on things to remove,add,change, etc wont be taken harshly and are appreciated.
My opinion...since you asked:
- Lose the 0s and 1s vortex. It simply doesn't fit wtih MK or SF
- Definitely lose the "Hyperspin", "Classics" and "Mame" logos. Nobody needs to be reminded what software you are running
- Maybe its just me but I don't get the "Street Fighter" vs "Mortal Kombat". These games have never crossed over.
It's certainly better than your first artwork attempt but remember you have to stare at it every day. Make sure you really like it.
Of course, I'm no artwork guy so have you thought about using one of the skilled artwork guys on this forum?
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I dont have alot of disposible income to hire a graphics artist, i took cg years ago but havent used ps in a decade just playing around with ideas. Some people pride themselves in doing the work themselves even if its shite.
Like I said.... those are the two games I remembered standing in line for so dont just want a run of the mill stock art'ed cab.
The problem is the next to none' amount of images free to use that i can find over 20mb that wont look like pixelated crap when scaled to these sizes. That matrix background,or stars or, lightning are basically all i can find, same with kitana and chun li.
Everyone on the forums knows what mame and hyperspin are but what about people who come overand see it. Might give them motivation to search up on them. I was tired when I did the mk vs sf logo, I dont like it and will change it, probably change a few things but I wont post them here.... anything breaking away from traditional is frowned here it seems. Or my layout is just really that bad.... doesnt matter
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I actually think you did a fairly nice job on the CP art, the "matrix" style background integrates well with the trackball placement. If your two favorites were SF and MC, then I say go ahead, it's you that needs to like it. There are loads of cabs on here that share video game characters and non-arcade related themes and they work well (admittedly, however, most don't >:D). As for the 3 small logos...mehhh, maybe find a home for them on the side art and keep the CP clean.
You seem to be making good progress, keep at it and don't get discouraged by some constructive criticism, some other builders on here have gotten harsher criticisms than yourself and made it out in one piece.
Good luck either way :cheers:
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I actually think you did a fairly nice job on the CP art, the "matrix" style background integrates well with the trackball placement. If your two favorites were SF and MC, then I say go ahead, it's you that needs to like it. There are loads of cabs on here that share video game characters and non-arcade related themes and they work well (admittedly, however, most don't >:D). As for the 3 small logos...mehhh, maybe find a home for them on the side art and keep the CP clean.
You seem to be making good progress, keep at it and don't get discouraged by some constructive criticism, some other builders on here have gotten harsher criticisms than yourself and made it out in one piece.
Good luck either way :cheers:
Appreciate it...
I would just like to find some more/better large format images to use.
I literally only found one or two for each character that was big enough to use.
Im using google images and selecting image size as a filter... still not much luck.
Deviant art has some good stuff but nothing large enough. Anyone know of any other sources?
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I dont have alot of disposible income to hire a graphics artist, i took cg years ago but havent used ps in a decade just playing around with ideas. Some people pride themselves in doing the work themselves even if its shite.
This irks me. Don't ask for opinions then dismiss them. VW was articulate in his reply and didn't cross any line of being insulting. Either don't ask for advice or be grateful someone took the time to politely give you theirs.
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I dont have alot of disposible income to hire a graphics artist, i took cg years ago but havent used ps in a decade just playing around with ideas. Some people pride themselves in doing the work themselves even if its shite.
This irks me. Don't ask for opinions then dismiss them. VW was articulate in his reply and didn't cross any line of being insulting. Either don't ask for advice or be grateful someone took the time to politely give you theirs.
His post was fine, criticism was fine...I asked for it.
What "irked"(how old are we?)me was saying give up and hire an artist (in more or less words before you start quoting)
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anything breaking away from traditional is frowned here it seems.
Disagree. Take a look at Ond's work. It is FAR from traditional, yet is the most exalted work on the forum. Some people are too close to their work, with little to no experience, to realize their mistakes. Even when multiple members point them out. I do find the "I'll show 'em" attitude entertaining though, it's not my money wasted.
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give up and hire an artist
My apologies deezdrama. It's hard to convey tone in a forum. Please understand that I didn't mean to have to you just throw in the towel and give up on the art. Rather, I just wanted you to know that there are very skilled artist on this forum that you can utilize. Just in case you didn't know. I didn't know when I first started. Just like their are skilled CRT guys, wiring guys, soldering/circuit guys, woodworking guys, etc. It's actually kinda the point of the whole forum really. Some guys are good at everything and can do it all. Some guys are really, really exceptional in some areas and like to help out others. It's the spirit of this community. There is no shame in outsourcing some of your work.
I'm also absolutely terrible with creating original art so I would surrender myself to the experts on my build.
All this being said, it doesn't mean you still have to use a professional. You can certainly do the artwork yourself and many people have. For example, the 2 recent threads that come to mind are:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,145188.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,145188.0.html)
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,145989.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,145989.0.html)
In each of these threads you will see the OP getting some good old fashioned criticism. They can take it or leave it. But the OPs took it in stride and had many revisions in their artwork. Their builds evolved and in the end their artwork was better for it. They kept refining it and making it better and yet their original vision still held up.
Stick with it, I think you are on the right track it just may take some time and several rips at it. :cheers:
I think most guys here will agree that when the build is over and their thread posting is done that the "Journey is the reward"
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anything breaking away from traditional is frowned here it seems. Or my layout is just really that bad.... doesnt matter
Anything LAZY is generally frowned upon. Breaking away from traditional isn't if it's inspired.
I thought your first layout was really that bad. This second one is better.
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Maybee third time will be the charm. I just cant find crap for images big enough to use so very limited.
I dont know where everyone gets there giant sized images
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Most of the images you see folks using are actually vector images. Vector images scale. What you are using is raster images - those don't scale. Vector images are created with programs like Inkscape (free) or Illustrator (not free). If you don't mind learning a new program, you can import a raster image into one of these programs and trace them out into a vector format, then you can scale them to any size you want without loss of quality.
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I have both programs just downloaded inkscape the other day. I dont remember how to use illustrator ... if I could get a layout im happy with im going to read some tutorials and do some button overlays and linework if I have time to figure it out.
What about side art for more realistic type images and not line art.... do you just have to deal with the blown pixels?
I guess i need to start relearning illustrator
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You can do photorealistic work in Illustrator, too:
http://basangpanaginip.blogspot.com/2006/07/worlds-most-photorealistic-vector-art.html (http://basangpanaginip.blogspot.com/2006/07/worlds-most-photorealistic-vector-art.html)
I mean, someone could. Not me though! :)
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Other members might smack me over the head for suggesting this but if you are desperate for artwork and only have raster images, you could give Vector Magic (http://vectormagic.com/home) a try. It lets you upload a raster image and it automatically converts/traces it to vector. It's not perfect but it could get you started. It obviously works much better with images that lack excessive shading and already look flat and simple. Cartoonish if you will. I've never tried it with a photo realistic image but it could be fun to play with. At the very least you can test it with logos. Those typically turn out ok.
However, keep in mind that you should keep the theme of your cab consistent throughout. If you use CGI images on your control panel, then do the same for your sides. If you like photo realistic more, then just make sure you use it everywhere.
Remember, I'm no artwork guy just spitballin' here.
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Other members might smack me over the head for suggesting this but if you are desperate for artwork and only have raster images, you could give Vector Magic (http://vectormagic.com/home) a try. It lets you upload a raster image and it automatically converts/traces it to vector. It's not perfect but it could get you started. It obviously works much better with images that lack excessive shading and already look flat and simple. Cartoonish if you will. I've never tried it with a photo realistic image but it could be fun to play with. At the very least you can test it with logos. Those typically turn out ok.
However, keep in mind that you should keep the theme of your cab consistent throughout. If you use CGI images on your control panel, then do the same for your sides. If you like photo realistic more, then just make sure you use it everywhere.
Remember, I'm no artwork guy just spitballin' here.
Ill look into it, cant you vector trace with illustrator as well?
Sorry for the way I acted the other day. My CP overlay really did look crappy.
I realize that now and trying to get something decent and since this is my first cab - I should be listening to you guys more.
So.... Im not going to let criticism get to me ;D
And I have a different CP overlay for you guys to throw tomatoes at...
I think it might work but will be hard for me to match comic style sideart but think I can pull something off half acceptable if I can play with vectorizing some images and making a similar designed background as whats in the CP.
Anyway Ive been playing around with button overlays but they just arent looking right to me.
Is the CP with button overlays or without overlays heading in the right direction?
Should I make the directional arrows for the sticks a solid color or leave the blue/yellow? Should I remove all the button overlays? Adjust transparency?
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Personally, I like translucent overlays. Without anything it tends to look like the buttons are kind of floating in the image, with no grounding.
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Player 4 stick may obstruct Scorpion's face
I'd move the whole image a bit left.
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I'm going to throw this out, just as advice. Take it or leave it however you want.
I've never been a fan of control panels that have characters on them, or scenes, or anything like that. When designing my first MAME control panel, I researched a lot of them, & I found that most classic machines have a control panel that made it look like it was an organic part of the machine. Lots of them had boxes on them, lines, shapes, and designs. Look at like Space Invaders, which was that show you which way to move the joystick, or a Defender, which makes it looks like you use it to control the actual ship. Hell, even look at something like a Mortal Kombat, what you seem to like, which doesn't have characters on it at all. The best control panels seem to bring your attention to the controls and how you use them. There's nothing else on there that serves as a distraction. The best place to put characters still seems to be the side art.
Just my thoughts. That's how I approach the control panel design process.
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Really love what you have going now. And +1 on the two suggestions above. :applaud:
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Ya I had a lot of trouble scaling and placing because of their faces. I had it a little to the left and didnt like that it cut subzeros hand off bit will definately play with it some more.
So i should go with both top and player button group overlays?
This is just a draft phase.... i dont like how the player button group overlay looks so going to redo them but wanted to see what the consensus was on if I should have them or not at all.
Yotsuya... I know what your saying. I thought about just throwing a 4 player twist to a stock mk CPO but want to do something different. I did use the mk1 CP button windows for the top button overlay area on mine :P
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Ordered wall mount. Need to pick a tv...
Anyone have experience with either one of these? I know sceptre is an offbrand but has almost 3000 reviews.... would probably be safer going with the Sharp though
http://www.bestbuy.com/site/sharp-32-class-31-1-2-diag--led-1080p-hdtv-black/5420105.p?id=1219128175325 (http://www.bestbuy.com/site/sharp-32-class-31-1-2-diag--led-1080p-hdtv-black/5420105.p?id=1219128175325)
http://www.walmart.com/ip/SCEPTRE-X325BV-FMDR-32-LED-Class-1080P-HDTV-with-Ultra-Slim-Metal-Brush-Bezel-MHL/25059349 (http://www.walmart.com/ip/SCEPTRE-X325BV-FMDR-32-LED-Class-1080P-HDTV-with-Ultra-Slim-Metal-Brush-Bezel-MHL/25059349)
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The Sharp only has HDMI inputs on the side. As far as I can tell. If that matters to you.
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The Sharp only has HDMI inputs on the side. As far as I can tell. If that matters to you.
I wonder if it would stick out too far for it to fit in the cab or do they have hdmi cables with a 90 degree bend ? My biggest concern is in the pics... I dont see the 4 threaded holes for wall mounting, but then in the reviews a couple people mentioned wall mounting them.
Also.... Im wondering what speakers I need to order, ive seen a certain logitech system used in allot of builds but cant find it now.... anyone know the model number? And is that the best route to go for decent sound on a budget?
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Just get a cheap $20/30 pair of logitechs, with or without a sub. Anything that has an independent volume control knob that's not on one of the actual speakers itself might be helpful as well.
There are 90° adapters for HDMI cables. Monoprice.com should have them for a decent price.
Honestly, never in my life have I seen a flat panel TV larger then 27" that didn't have VESA mounting holes on the back. If you find a TV that does, just don't buy it, as it's probably just that crappy.
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Also.... Im wondering what speakers I need to order, ive seen a certain logitech system used in allot of builds but cant find it now.... anyone know the model number? And is that the best route to go for decent sound on a budget?
Logitech s120 or S150 are decent cheap speakers (s120's use regular headphone plug and AC plug for power - s150's are USB plug for both power and connection) both can be found for less than $15 - $20 a pair on ebay etc.
EXAMPLE : S120's for $7.95 shipped ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/181043149309?lpid=82&chn=ps (http://www.ebay.com/itm/like/181043149309?lpid=82&chn=ps) )
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Thanks guys!
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Also for the mounting the 4th pic in the Sharp shows them with screws inserted and sceptre has them also (though might be different size not 100x100)
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Also for the mounting the 4th pic in the Sharp shows them with screws inserted and sceptre has them also (though might be different size not 100x100)
That top pic is from the Sharp link I posted? I just checked again but dont see them. Might be because im using my phone. I will look again when I get home .... thanks for posting this.
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That top pic is from the Sharp link I posted? I just checked again but dont see them. Might be because im using my phone. I will look again when I get home .... thanks for posting this.
Yep here is a bit more of the screen with the various pics shown it is the 4th one in --
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Ok.... your attatched pic showed the screws when I clicked on it. When I was just on the website it would not zoom and appeared to have no screws on the rear. I hate how all sites are forced to mobile version. I should of forced it to desktop version.
Anyway, I see it now .... will go pick one up tomorrow...thanks.
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Just saw your build - it's very clean and well thought out. Keep plugging along, you're doing great!
Cheers!
:cheers:
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Just saw your build - it's very clean and well thought out. Keep plugging along, you're doing great!
Cheers!
:cheers:
Appreciate it, Really just stole Chances build and plans and when I didnt follow directions had to improvise things....lol.
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Messing with side art and when I saved as psd ... it says it couldnt save because the file exceeded 2gb limit. Anyone know a way around this?
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Lower the DPI? Not sure if that would affect the file size. You could also split it into layers and save each layer into a separate file.
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Lower the DPI? Not sure if that would affect the file size. You could also split it into layers and save each layer into a separate file.
I merged a few layers and got it under 2gb.....
Just curious now..... Who are my options to handle/print these out... and what type file do they need saved in?
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Just curious now..... Who are my options to handle/print these out...
I have had all my artwork printed by BYOAC member Lucian045 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=profile;u=75788)
His prints are absolutely fantastic in my opinion. High quality vinyl. Super nice guy and prices are right on. Good turn around time too.
and what type file do they need saved in?
I've always given him .jpg but if I recall he likes tif. He likes to deal with RGB so make sure you artwork is converted to RGB first and the colors still look right. Make sure they are 1:1 as well.
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Just curious now..... Who are my options to handle/print these out...
I have had all my artwork printed by BYOAC member Lucian045 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=profile;u=75788)
His prints are absolutely fantastic in my opinion. High quality vinyl. Super nice guy and prices are right on. Good turn around time too.
and what type file do they need saved in?
I've always given him .jpg but if I recall he likes tif. He likes to deal with RGB so make sure you artwork is converted to RGB first and the colors still look right. Make sure they are 1:1 as well.
Is he alot cheaper than gameongrafix? Does he do any laminates and / or adhesive backing?
Heres what I have sofar....
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I can't speak to how he compares to game on graphics. But others here have used them and been happy. Perhaps someone else can comment on them and their prices?
All of Lucian045's prints come with a super strong adhesive backing. He even includes a felt squeegee. He has a tutorial video on you tube as well.
Also forgot to mention a couple other things:
1. Make sure your artwork has "bleed". Meaning it extends over the edge of the wood just a little. Your going to need that little extra to razor off.
2. Make sure you decide on matte finish or gloss. I imagine you want gloss everywhere. Are you putting lexan over your control panel? If so, I'm told gloss doesn't play well under lexan. Also know that a matte finish will dull the colors ever so slightly.
Did you have any bezel or marquee art?
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I can't speak to how he compares to game on graphics. But others here have used them and been happy. Perhaps someone else can comment on them and their prices?
All of Lucian045's prints come with a super strong adhesive backing. He even includes a felt squeegee. He has a tutorial video on you tube as well.
Also forgot to mention a couple other things:
1. Make sure your artwork has "bleed". Meaning it extends over the edge of the wood just a little. Your going to need that little extra to razor off.
2. Make sure you decide on matte finish or gloss. I imagine you want gloss everywhere. Are you putting lexan over your control panel? If so, I'm told gloss doesn't play well under lexan. Also know that a matte finish will dull the colors ever so slightly.
Did you have any bezel or marquee art?
Have not worked on marquee yet. I need to pick up the 32" screen and get it in there so I can see what room im working with to finish the speaker panel and marquee area. Wont know the exact marquee height untill I do this.
I planned on no screen bezel artwork, the 32" will take up most of the area in the cab and planned on installing tinted smoke 15 tempered glass.
For the CP.... I guess if I just get a vinyl print then I will add some thin acrylic , if I go with a vinyl with laminate then I will skip it.
Im wondering how hard it would be to run mkx from within hyperspin without needing steam or internet.
I almost did a mkx themed cab but then when the next game comes out im obsolete lol. Figured id just go with a basic theme not based on any certain version. Im not real happy with it but spending all this week in photoshop has my eyes feeling like there bleeding and ready to get this cab done and move on to the paint and wiring phases.
Still a long way to go.... feels like it will never get done.
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Got some more weekend drinking - err work done ;D
Cutout a piece of cardboard to the dimensions of the screen Im using. Got my speaker panel cut/installed. Went super simple with the speaker mounting design since I dont have them yet. 2.5" holes, eyehooks mounted behind the panel. Will just velcro/ziptie speakers to eyehooks. Yeah...its ghetto.... but will allow the swap of speakers and no dismantling of the speakers. Ill cover the holes in the front with speaker grills backed with black cloth to cover the ugly.
Got my CP box sanded down (pictures from before I sanded) and took measurements for my marquee that I can play with now.
I might have to router some pockets in the bottom CP box.... my lower most button has 1 5/8" clearance under the top CP panel, player 1 and 2 joysticks have 1 3/4" clearance.... I planed on routing a pocket out for them anyway. I will be going with sanwa jlf sticks and paradise LED buttons with 20mg switches.
I really wanted the ultra mark trackball that is flush mount but due to clearance under the cp I might have to go with something else and router out a pocket for it.
Still trying to wrap my head around what exactlly I will need to mount 4 sanwa jlf sticks and have no bolts or plate ontop of the CP.
Oh.... and I got a buzz and test fitted some "custom" sticks :dunno
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uggggg, I want it finished :hissy: lol
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(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=146268.0;attach=333017;image)
Mortal Beer Tap. I'd play it. ;)
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:laugh2: ROFL!!!!
LOVE the beer bottle joysticks. I wanna see this more often now.
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Was going to lay out bottlecap buttons but that was just too much lol.
I ordered a plunge router an the slot cutting bit.
What other bits should I order? A cloning bit? What bit do I need for plunge routing out a cove on the bottom of the cp for the sticks?
Speaking of sticks.... Almost ordered a sanwa jlf to see what would need done for bottom mounting with no bolts or holes on the top of the cp. The more I read about mounting the jlf's the more confused and discouraged I get.
I thought I could just route out a cove about 1/2" deep from the cp bottom and use an S - plate to screw into the un routed area next to it. I guess that wont work, the S-plates dont go that deep and the jlf sanwas were meant for thin metal CP tops.
I dont have a problem drilling a custom mounting plate if its not too involved and needing bends etc...
I just really wanted to try these Sanwa jlf's due to there reputation for being great for fighter sticks- but if its going to need a giant hackjob on the cp to get them installed...then maybee I should just go with some happ sticks or something easier to install :dunno
Any thoughs on the stick situation..... and suggestions on the router bits I will need or if theres a cheap amazon router bit set that will have what I need (besides slot cutter....already ordered that)...thanks
Edit.........
I didnt realize the j-sticks are sanwa jlw's. These would probably be alot easier to mount.
If I just run J-sticks and bottom mount them without routing, will I just need the longer shafts and the blind mounting kits?
Are the threaded inserts in the pic the same as the ones from ulti? They want $9 for 4 with 4 screws.... I cant see paying $40 for 4 sets.
Ulti states "Available in 2 sizes, 6mm suitable for Mag-Stik and 5mm suitable for all other joysticks."
The ones in the pic are 5mm so assuming they will work and then can just get the screws and washers I need at local bolt shop.
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Not much progress to report lately... :embarassed:
Got major family drama going on and have to use my spare time finishing a bedroom build in the basement.
I did get my marquee area finished :-\
Got some hardware.... tools in.
I know black n decker is bottom shelf stuff from experience in the past but the price was right and amazon had a ton of good reviews.
After playing with the dewalt router at lowes I kind of wish I would of spent a little more on one but as long as this lasts to finish thisproject It will be ok.
Besides the router I got my arbor and t molding slot cutter in. Also found a top bearing 1" x 3/4" width flush trim bit at lowes for $20.
Got a couple paires of speaker grills. If I end up going with chrome ringed buttons I will use the chrome speaker grills otherwise will use the black ones.
I ordered a single pushbutton and sanwa jlf joystick to test fit and make sure I have clearance.
The pushbutton looks identical to paradises but got it from california on ebay.
The microswitch must be like 150g its way to stiff. When I order my buttons I will be going with 20g soft switches.
The jlf feels nice. I like the shorter throw and soft springs but dont know if i can get over the click click clicky click clicks.
I plan on mounting the jlf sticks to the bottom of the cp with threaded wood inserts.
Im thinking about grinding the wood inserts a little shorter and trying to router out a small cove in the joystick area but might just order the extended shafts. $60 for 4 shafts seems like alot though, plus I dont know how longer shafts will affect the feel of the already sensitive jlf's.
Hoping things blow over here so I can get back to this project soon.
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Got the majority of the room I had to build finished so hopefully will be able to jump back on this cab this next weekend.
I found some sanwa jlf shaft extenders cheap from china on ebay so ordered some.... I wonder if I will need stiffer springs now?
The piano hinge I ordered came and is a joke... its paper thin so will need to order a different one or try to use some concealed hinges.
Anyone ever use concealed hinges for there control panel? Im thinking about using them but would hate to cut out the hole for the hinge cup to realize the hinges wont work.
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Made a little progress, got the euro hinges/ keyboard tray on slides installed and most of the hardware I needed to finish the woodwork phase.
Just need to finish installing the tv mount crossmember and get the control panel secured with hand knobs and hinges, then slot for t-molding and then I can move on to paint.
My tv came with 4 plastic button washer looking things...they are not in the manual anywhere....no clue what they are for? wall mount bushings is what I thought but they dont seem to fit very good over the vesa holes.
Also when I hooked the tv up (samsung un32j5003af) to my pc I used hdmi , the picture looked fantastic but changed the input name to pc as Ive always read is a good thing to do to avoid screenfit issues etc.... but now the color looks a little washed out.
How do you guys set your picture settings? just by eye?
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mocked the tv up and got the tv mount installed.
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Feeling defeated right now.... I screwed up my t molding slotting :banghead: :badmood: :banghead:
The cheap routers collet loosened on me , then On the cab I started it while the bit was on the wood and ripped the corner out.
I been working overtime all week and was tired and didnt have patience and just wanted to get the slotting done... I should of waited.
I thought about filling it with wood filler and trying again tomorrow but figured the filler would just probably chip out as soon as I try to slot it.
So.....how bad is this? think that 8" spot on the CP will cause problems?
Whats the best adhesive to use in these areas when applying t-molding?
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So with wood putty/filler make sure you pack it in. That will ensure there are no bubbles which will make it doesn't pop when cutting it out again. It will be fine.
Love the look of it.
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Yeah, once the filler is in there and hardened, it should route just fine. Looking good!
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so definitely pack filler in it?
Thanks for the kind words.... this is all new to me and been a fun but long and daunting project sofar.
The past few days have been setbacks... first my tv wall mount didnt come with m8 bolts that samsung uses so had to order them online since im working 5am to 5pm right now and have no time to go to any stores....then this.
Just need to get this done and the guide boards for my tempered glass installed then I can stop covering myself in sawdust and get to painting and electrical
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Got the bad spots filled.... we will see tomorrow how it goes.
Its cheap elmer wood filler so I dont have alot of faith in it, seems like it cracked alot when I used it on my cp...but we will see.
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That stuff sucks man.
Two part stuff is probably better for an application like this.
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Actually, I used the Elmers stuff all the time and don't have any issues with it.
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Actually, I used the Elmers stuff all the time and don't have any issues with it.
I guess if it dries completely it can work.
Using it to fill corner chips is a PITA though!
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Actually, I used the Elmers stuff all the time and don't have any issues with it.
I guess if it dries completely it can work.
Using it to fill corner chips is a PITA!
I do it in layers so I never have thick chunks that I need to dry. Reduces cracking.
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I use something called M/H ready patch, and that stuff fills nice, dries nice and hard, and sands awesome.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk
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regarding your slot cutting slip up, you could try what other suggested...bogging and re-cutting...............or just use adhesive and tape the t-mould until the glue dries. its only near the corner in 1 spot right? so mallet the rest in and just have that one little mistake glued in, youll never tell the difference.
that what I would do, because its the quickest fix solution ,but that's me..lazy, corner cutter ;D
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Ya... its just that top edge on the cab and about an 8" spot on the front of the cp.
I was going to just glue the t molding on in those areas but went ahead and filled those 2 spots with filler.
I dont think the elmer filler will hold but we will see.
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It slotted out ok.... not great but better than it was. Im just worried when I go to pound the t molding in - it will crumble.
Got the cp and cab screw holes filled in too. Still need to get my tv in there to measure for the boards that will hold the glass in.
How far from the screen should my tinted piece of glass sit?
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How far from the screen should my tinted piece of glass sit?
Theres no "rule of Thumb" here. just do what fits.
Also, pro tip, use a bit of black electrical tape to cover any little power or status LED's on the TV, but make sure you don't cover the remote IR sensor!
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Thanks...
Need to order t molding...
I planned on going with light blue t molding.... i need 22' but see they come in 20' rolls.... that gave me the idea to do the sub zero side blue and the scorpion side yellow... and the cp half and half.
I dont know if this would look bad and if I should just go all blue... any opinions?
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that gave me the idea to do the sub zero side blue and the scorpion side yellow... and the cp half and half.
I dont know if this would look bad and if I should just go all blue... any opinions?
I think this is one of those ideas that sounds good on paper but wouldn't look good in reality. So speaking of "rule of thumb"...I think there is one when it comes to making a cab that looks like it can't make up it's own mind. Sucks you would have to buy extra rolls of t-molding but it is one of the lesser expenses.
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Yeah... thats why I asked. Seems like it might look good but would be offbalance and might end up hating it.
But... Im wondering if I just went all light blue- that the blue t molding on the scorpion side would clash and look out of place.
I could go black but thats not very exciting... theres always chrome but not sure if I want this cab "blinged out" hehe......
which leads me back to the half/half idea again :dunno
Wanted to get the molding ordered today but might hold off untill its painted and think this through.
Im still undecided on buttons and that will be a factor too.
Planned on blue/yellow paradise led's just hooked up to 12v for price / simplicity sake.
But those electric ice 2 rgb buttons look awesome.... it would add to the cost and make the build more complicated but they do look sweet..... If I went with those...then could maybe go with white t molding
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Wanted to get the molding ordered today but might hold off untill its painted and think this through.
+1 Wait until your cab is painted. Patience is the #1 rule when building your cab. Your future self will thank you.
Get your cab painted and order some free samples to play with here. (http://www.t-molding.com/free-sample.html)
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Ya sounds like a plan.
Heres my next dilema...
I was going to skip on coin doors but decided I need to use them for that true arcade feel.
My vendetta 4p cab has two dual over under doors mounted side by side.
I was going to sell this cab but decided to keep it for the coin doors.
Problem is... one of the mechs isnt working and have not had time to investigate why, not a huge deal but the bigger issue is -
I need to have room in the bottom of my cab for the coin door/doors, a mid tower pc, and a subwoofer.
This has me thinking about just installing one of the vendettas dual coin doors.
How silly would it be to only have a 2 player coin door on a 4p cab?
I guess it would work ok for demonstrating the ability to eat quarters on any 2p games.Or maybe could wire up 2 players coin in buttons to each of the 2 switches on the coin door.
Would you guys try to cram all 4 in the cab, just go with a single 2p door, or just pass on the coin doors?
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Well... I got one door out. I think im just going to go with on of these dual mech doors.
I wont be using quarters much but will be cool to demonstrate it on 2 player games at least.
I bought a 1" top bearing clone router bit and planned on using that but have no idea how to go about it.
I guess I would need to build a guide fence frame.... sounds easier to just bust out the skillsaw since I can cut straight lines and could just hole saw the corner radiuses first..... we will see.
I have no idea if these mechs work. When it was in the vendetta cab I just flicked the quarter bar on the switches with my fingers.
The coin release buttons - springs get stuck back when the buttons depressed... maybee they just need cleaned/oiled?
Do they make drop in replacement switches for these? What about coin return buttons?
Would like blue or yellow.
Maybe I should call Coin Controls Inc hotline for help? (See pic to explain my bad attempt at humor)lol
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Ok.... I can figure out all my previous questions but really need help with this one....
I plan on getting the utrak trackball and from as far as I can tell it states it needs 2" of bottom clearance.
well because of the way I had to build my cp to get the angle I wanted... I only have about 1 3/4" clearance at the bottom of my cp.
In the second pic ...the screw is in my punched guide hole for where the center of the hole will be for the trackball.... i measured over parralel to that where a button hole is and I have 1 7/8" clearance.
I dont know how far down the back base of the utrack extends from center but wondering if I should move my trackball up on the cp an inch or two to get more clearance and then just adjust for this the best i can in photoshop for my cp overlay?
I probably will need to remove some material up to a half an inch on the bottom inside of my cp box. I wont be able to get a router in there due to the bottom board of the cp box being there. I could cut out a square area from the bottom of the cp box and cover it by screwing a piece of thin gauge aluminum sheet over the hole but that wont be pretty.
Easiest solution for me would be to sand that area out with sanding resin pads on my grinder but that might be even less pretty when looking inside my cp box.
What would you guys do?
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While it's nice to have the inside all pretty, I'm a firm believer in "Make it work". YOU are the only person who will be inside your CP, so if it needs to look ugly to make it work... so be it.
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Get a chisel and hammer and it should make quick work of removing the amount of material you need to and should look decent !! Figure a 3 pc. set of chisels is less than $10 at Walmart !
(http://i5.walmartimages.com/dfw/dce07b8c-389e/k2-_f6de666c-93bf-4725-a4ba-3950369005f2.v1.jpg)
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Get a chisel and hammer and it should make quick work of removing the amount of material you need to and should look decent !! Figure a 3 pc. set of chisels is less than $10 at Walmart !
(http://i5.walmartimages.com/dfw/dce07b8c-389e/k2-_f6de666c-93bf-4725-a4ba-3950369005f2.v1.jpg)
Hmmmm.... never tried chisels on plywood.... might actually remove layers easier.
I have some... might try it on some scrap.... thanks for the idea!
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Got another 12 hours and 12 beers in today.... sure doesnt seem like i got much done :(
Got the coin door cut out ... man - if this coin door would of been 1/8" taller it wouldnt of fit.
Just barely squeezed it in between the bottom of the cab and middle shelf.
After that... glued/screwed/filled the front coin door panel in.
Then I test fit the 32" monitor and positioned my guide boards that will hold the tempered tinted glass.
The last major obstacle was fitting a 2" thick u-trak under a 1 1/2" cp.
I mocked up a 2" thick wooden block using ultramarks dimensions for the utrak and mounted it under the cp... I quickly realized I would have to move it up a bit if I ever planned on fitting the u-trak under the cp.
.
I moved the trackball hole up 1" and drilled a pilot hole, I then screwed the utrak mockup under the cp and outlined the utrak base on the bottom of the cp box with a pencil threw the button holes.
After I had the U-trak base outlined and knew where to remove material... It took about 3 hours of chiseling... then busted out the grinder,dremel,drill with sanding flapwheel. Took forever ...but I have clearance now for the trackball. Looks a little shoddy but I think will be decent once painted.
The last thing needed done was to hole saw the hole for the trackball. The dang arbor that I got is too small and will have to pick up a bigger one tomorrow so i can drill out the hole ... then I will FINALLY be ready for sanding...painting.
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Anyone know of blue or yellow coin reject buttons for wells gardner/ coin control buttons?
All I can find are red :(
If reds all thats available is there any methods anyone has found to paint them or use colored led's to change the color?
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Found yellow lime reject buttons!!! :applaud:
check out this thread if anyone is interested http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=147086.new;topicseen#new (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=147086.new;topicseen#new)
(still wont know 100% that they will work untill they arrive)
Then ordered some yellow led's for the coin rejects....and some color changing led's to play with on them....
Got 5 locks in the mail, 2 for the coin doors , 1 for the keyboard/mouse door, and one to lock my control panel down (wont be able to stick hand up from below due to keyboard slide out tray)
Was at lowes today for a new door...
While there I decided to get some 2.5" castors to replace the 2"ers.
My arbor for the 83mm hole saw came in the mail today and got my cp trackball hole drilled out.
Then spent about 6 hours sanding the cab and parts to get ready for paint.
Swept up and took everything outside to blow off with the air compressor.
8 cans of painters touch semi-gloss got a single coat on almost everything.... ran out halfway on the last panel (rear panel) also... my CP isnt painted yet untill I decide on if im running non led sanwa jlf's or paradise arcade led joysticks (anyone know if the jlf and paradise led sticks have the same bolt mounting pattern?) :dunno
I sanded as much as I could.... after one coat of semi gloss rustolieum painters touch is looks very blotchy. :dunno
***************************
Please help..... :cry: :dunno
I have satin clear coat.... but should my second coat of black be semi gloss...or should I swap over to flat????
Should I fine sand between black coats or just wait and fine sand before clear coating?
How smooth does the sides need to be for vinyl art to stick well? I was going to just leave a single coat on sides since artwork will cover them but after the first coat it still feels a little rough.
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Base coat, sand, base coat, sand, main coat, sand, main coat, sand, main coat, varnish, varnish
That's my process, did it with rattle cans. Used grey base coat, matte black for the main coat, and a satin varnish for the finish. Sanding started as a heavy grit at first and getting finer each step after, going slow after the paint cured and using tack cloths to wipe the sanding dust after. Didn't sand the last coat, added two even coats of varnish at the end. All told a couple dozen cans, (32 I think... Don't remember but it's in my thread). All said and done, I estimated my paint job coat well over $400CDN in supplies, plus time, not sure if that counts my paint booth. I wanted the best finish I could. It was my first attempt at doing this, like ever, but I took the time and money to research and do it to my standards.
You could go cheap and roll on. I'm very happy with my finish. Wouldn't change a thing.
Your art will stick better the more glossy it is, but you shouldn't have issues of you just get a decently smooth and clean surface.
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Oh, and I put lighter numbers of coats on the surfaces that ended up getting covered by art.
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Thanks for breaking down your paint details chance.... your paint job did come out sweet!
I skipped primer or basecoat because the paint is paint+primer. I will have to get 2 more coats on there from the looks of it then will do 2 coats varnish.
I have a 3 day weeked so hopefully will have it painted before I have to go back to work.
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DISASTER !!!
:badmood: :badmood: :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
After working on this almost everyday for a couple months now....Im so pissed right now...words cant describe.
Got off work.... came home and sanded...applied 3rd coat of black to everything.
Then I began clearcoating everything and the nightmare began.
All the removeable panels turned out great.
On the cab the overspray began balling up in little beads under where I hadnt painted yet.
The satin clearcoat ended up a horrible looking milky white blotchy mess.
I thought for sure I could apply the clearcoat on the just painted black sections as the can says apply within an hour or after 48 hours.
Well evidentally I effed up big time.
All that work and money on this thing and now it looks like total garbage.
The sides and back panels that I didnt today put a 3rd coat on turned out great. But all the areas I gave a third coat of black look like trash.
What the hell can I do now? So pissed
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Meh, don't panic. At least it wasn't $300 custom printed vinyl. I'd let it dry for a couple days and just hit it with a coarse sander and rip it down. Not even all the way to the wood, just a layer or two of what is on there. All that is screwed up is the paint, nothing structural.
Take a breath, have a beer, let it sit a couple days and don't panic.
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Aren't you doing full side art? Why are you clear-coating it?
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I just wanted all the exposed parts clear coated... ended up having enough clear to do the sides too. I started with sides and they turned out good.
Its the front of the cab that the clear overspray was drying and building up as I was painting
The sides,all rear panels,top, cp, keyboard door all look good....
Just the front did this.... really pissed.... I spent the most time and care on the front,sanding and extra coats....then this.
Can I just let it dry 48 hrs.... sand smooth, paint black again....wait 48 and re clear?
I thought it did this because the front i added a 3rd coat of black about 30min before the clear but in the 4th pic... you can see the worst area is the middle shelf and it was painted over a week ago. Its like when I changed cans this happened.... the clear looked white....bad gummy overspray... maybe a bad mixture in that can...I should of tossed it. Arggggg :banghead:
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Yep, let it dry, cure, sand it, then hit it again. You'll be ok. I think you might have put that clear coat on too thick. A few light even coats from the proper distance written on the label will do.
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Was putting on light coats.... not a run on the cab, had to of been a bad can or chemical reaction from the black coat before it just being laid.... I dont know but wasnt a heavy coat.
So do you guys think i should just lay black back over this after waiting a couple days and a little sanding?
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I just looked at it again and its about 80% clear now.
Strange...
Hopefully it clears up a little more and I could live with it.
Theres still a heavy dust layer of overspray in areas.... whats the best way to get rid of it? 1000 grit.....2000 grit sanding?
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...whats the best way to get rid of it? 1000 grit.....2000 grit sanding?
I recommend a good screaming at. Maybe a harsh glare or two.
(https://jamiebrownmusic.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/glare3.jpg)
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...whats the best way to get rid of it? 1000 grit.....2000 grit sanding?
I recommend a good screaming at. Maybe a harsh glare or two.
(https://jamiebrownmusic.files.wordpress.com/2009/11/glare3.jpg)
What about flat out cussing the ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- out of it.... oh.... tried that... didnt work
I read humidity causes clearcoat to do this.... makes sense as it was raining out and humid as hell.
Also read it may clear up as it cures..... guess I just have to forget about it for a couple days and see.
Just needed to vent out. For some odd reason the ol lady dont seem to care about this little project. :dunno
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Just needed to vent out. For some odd reason the ol lady dont seem to care about this little project. :dunno
I fully understand the need to vent. Frustration is the mind killer. As far as the wife goes... good luck.
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Spent 3 hours sanding the clearcoat off the front, 2 coats of flat black....looking good.
Light coat of clear...looks great, second coat looks great.... run out of clear in the can, decide to use a half full can from before..... bam.....milky foggy damn mess. I get pissed and throw the can down on the cab so ill have to start all over again.
Flat black with satin clear looks great when the moons aligned right and the suns in the right elevation and earths aligned right with the luck spirit but damn.... i have clearcoat overspray all over the inside of the cab... it doesnt just wipe off.
My sides look good but feel the texture of 400 grit sandpaper so not sure if vinyl will stick.
I feel like tapping out on this project while I still have my sanity but have too much time and money iin it to give up.
I just wish I would of went with a damn roll on paint job or stuck with semi gloss and not used the clearcoat.
Again it looks fantastic when everything goes right but thats only about half the time with me
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Yeah, I've gotten better at spray painting because of this hobby, but there's no way I'm stupid enough to spray paint a whole cab. If you use quality paint and equality roller, there's no reason why you can't get a great finish.
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Oh, please note, I'm not calling you stupid. There's just no way I would spray paint a whole cabinet.
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Oh, please note, I'm not calling you stupid. There's just no way I would spray paint a whole cabinet.
Stupid is as stupid does
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Rep for you, Forrest!
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I had the same problem as you, my polyurethane clear coat went milky and in some spots bubbled up like it was have some kind of chemical reaction, so I def feel your frustration man.
but I just used paint stripper and started again ,this time I used high gloss enamel spray cans and the finish was very professional and shiny.
but you don't need clear coat where your artwork is going.
good luck friend, you'll be right, painting is an art and we learn from our mistakes ;)
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Whats even worse is - this morning .... the hazy section that I finished with the other can is now chrystal clear ....
So what would of been perfect I now have to redo because I flipped out and slammed the can down on the paint job ;D
Sofar it seems like no 2 cans of the clear initialy lays down the same... i will have to sand the crap out of the front this weekend and when its time to clear....make sure I have enough in one can.
Still not sure what to do about the inside of the cab where the overspray collects and looks frosted now
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Well..... a few more hours of heavy sanding and a few coats of flat black later and the lower front cab is looking great.
I kind of wish I would of left the clearcoat out completely. Its hit or miss for me. On some panels it looks great on others you can see a difference in the finish between cans and its overall not uniform.
I kind of feel forced to clear it though since the rest of the cab is.
In hindsight I would of stuck with semi gloss only and just put enough coats/sanding between untill grains in the wood didnt show through (probably 3-4 coats)
This time im letting the black sit 48 hrs before clear coat.... i hope this helps.. whatever the result ends to be is what I am sticking with....I just refuse to sand anymore lol.
Its humid in the midwest this time of year....I wonder if thats the issue?
2-3 light coats is whats suggested on the can for the clear.... im going as thin as possible without leaving blotchy spots that didnt get hit with clear.... the flat black lays down great....that clear is just hell though.
Got a package from Germany.... yellow/lime coin reject buttons for my old coin control door! They fit fine and the coin eject rod etc is identical.... perfect replacement.... except- no removeable front to house the "insert coin/token" printout.
I will have to modify an insert and hole punch it for the rod to poke threw and tape it in there or figure something out.
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Close but no cigar. Bummer.
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Close but no cigar. Bummer.
Yeah.... I wonder how they used inserts on these buttons :dunno
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Close but no cigar. Bummer.
Yeah.... I wonder how they used inserts on these buttons :dunno
I bet they used stickers OVER the buttons. I've seen the stickers somewhere.
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Ya i was just thinking... maybe i could have some printed with adhesive backing and laminated.
If anyone thinks of a source for them ... i would appreciate!
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Ya i was just thinking... maybe i could have some printed with adhesive backing and laminated.
If anyone thinks of a source for them ... i would appreciate!
On Bob Robert's site...
(http://www.therealbobroberts.net/25cent.jpg)
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Sweet....thanks
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Ya i was just thinking... maybe i could have some printed with adhesive backing and laminated.
If anyone thinks of a source for them ... i would appreciate!
On Bob Robert's site...
(http://www.therealbobroberts.net/25cent.jpg)
I always have problems navigating his site from my phone.
Do you know the category or have direct link?
Thanks again
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Sweet....thanks
Find any other tidbits and odds and ends on Bob's site before you order. I ALWAYS get a pack of black 1/2 inch pan screws. They are the best for those things you need to install into your cab. I try to order about $20 worth of stuff at a time.
Go to www.orderfrombob.net (http://www.orderfrombob.net)
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Im probably just going to design my own to fit the inside.
I striped my coin control door down about a week ago, wire wheeled it and hit it with rustoleum hammered black.
Like many report.... its more gray than black so last night I went over with a semi gloss. Looks good but if I could do it over I just would of painted it flat black and then spattered over it with semi gloss using the barely depressed paint can nozel method.
Oh well.... better than it was.
Took the gutted coin mechs and hardware and gave everything a good scrubbing.
Figured out why one of my mechs would get stuck for a second when eject lever was depressed....
Had to set adjustment screw to bring the magnet door part of the mech out slightly more to allow the eject arm to slide by freely.
Slight lube of the eject mechanism with super lube and they are now functioning great.
The yellow coin reject buttons I found from germany work great!
Mechs are reasembled and function without a hitch.
Good news.... the 1$ rgb blinker leds I ordered from china on ebay came in.... i didnt even know it but they are direct replacements for the original bulb sockets.
The different colors look great through the yellow plastic and not filtered out much at all!
I got another china gadget that will hopefully set my cab off and seperate it from others as I have not seen it done yet but will wait untill Its done.
Ive linked a short yt vid of the coin reject button with the rgb blinker.
Rgb blinker led coin control door: http://youtu.be/b2jbqhmoxek (http://youtu.be/b2jbqhmoxek)
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Well.... im going to have to sand my entire cab back down and start over with the paint. :angry:
Third time repainting the front of the cab.
This time the clearcoat orange peeled like crazy.
I painted it flat black fri so it had 2 days to cure. I will not use this clearcoat again...ever.
Chance.... i commend you on getting this stuff to look as good as it does on your cab, it just wont cooperate with me.
:banghead:
Some panels looked great with the clear satin but the cab itself is a mess.... hazyness,orange peel, and frosted overspray areas.
The painters touch flat black looked good on its own.... wish I would of opted out on the clear....
Oh well, maybe Ill just smooth the clear out with 320 grit and have a thick base for the new paint.
Heres before after clearcoat pics...
Couple of questions..... :dunno
do you think it will be ok to repaint over the clear if I smooth it out with a light sanding?
And... If I just leave my paint un clear coated will the finish still hold up well?
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Just hit it with 80 grit on a random orbital sander and start over.
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What about flat paint? Will it be ok on its own or should it be clear coated?
Im def not using clearcoat this time around.
Just not sure if flat on its own will be fine or if I should use gloss or semi gloss for a harder finish??
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I always use black satin enamel and it looks fine when dried. No clearcoat needed.
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I always use black satin enamel and it looks fine when dried. No clearcoat needed.
+1
Rustoleum Satin Black Enamel and no clear coat is needed. With a nice smooth primer underneath, I only needed 2 coats of the satin black. Just did this for my mini Qbert and I'm very happy.
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Ok.... yeah flat black looked great before clearcoat and was pretty smooth too.
That damn rustoleum clear comes out thicker than snot.... maybe should of went with krylon.
Had great results with the rustoleum painters touch flat black on its own so probably will just go with it again.
Could probably be cheaper if I rolled on some paint but I dont want anymore surprises.
30-some cans of paint down the drain :badmood:
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I always use black satin enamel and it looks fine when dried. No clearcoat needed.
+1
Rustoleum Satin Black Enamel and no clear coat is needed. With a nice smooth primer underneath, I only needed 2 coats of the satin black. Just did this for my mini Qbert and I'm very happy.
Exactly. We're not restoring the Sistine Chapel here. Keep it simple.
I forgot you sprayed it on as well. I buy Wooster rollers and quality paint and don't have any issues.
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I always use black satin enamel and it looks fine when dried. No clearcoat needed.
+1
Rustoleum Satin Black Enamel and no clear coat is needed. With a nice smooth primer underneath, I only needed 2 coats of the satin black. Just did this for my mini Qbert and I'm very happy.
Exactly. We're not restoring the Sistine Chapel here. Keep it simple.
I forgot you sprayed it on as well. I buy Wooster rollers and quality paint and don't have any issues.
Oh yea...spraying is just tricky as hell. I was only spraying a very small cab so I could do all the surfaces quickly without worrying about over spray. Rolling it is going to obviously avoid all this.
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I only spray metal parts. I stick with the roller on a anything else.
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I might just try rolling it this time. Been coughing up black chunks for weeks and dont think I could handle anymore of it lol.
What paint should I go with to give the same appearance as the rattlecan rustoleum painters touch satin flat black I was using?
And I will be going over all the panels and inside of the cab again, will a gallon be enough?
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I might just try rolling it this time. Been coughing up black chunks for weeks and dont think I could handle anymore of it lol.
What paint should I go with to give the same appearance as the rattlecan rustoleum painters touch satin flat black I was using?
And I will be going over all the panels and inside of the cab again, will a gallon be enough?
I use this: http://www.lowes.com/pd_46305-4-410.0065049.005_0__ (http://www.lowes.com/pd_46305-4-410.0065049.005_0__)
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I was pretty happy with my paint job using this on the irregular surfaces that are hard to hit with a roller:
http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?productId=3878542 (http://www.lowes.com/ProductDisplay?productId=3878542)
And this everywhere else (same stuff in a can):
http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Stops-Rust-1-qt-Satin-Black-Protective-Enamel-Paint-7777502/100184504 (http://www.homedepot.com/p/Rust-Oleum-Stops-Rust-1-qt-Satin-Black-Protective-Enamel-Paint-7777502/100184504)
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Every time I buy this paint I have to stare at the can for like 5 seconds to make sure I'm buying the black color. (I know..."just look at the cap dummy!")
...but the brown logo and park bench on the front always throws me off for a moment. :)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=335459;image)
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Every time I buy this paint I have to stare at the can for like 5 seconds to make sure I'm buying the black color. (I know..."just look at the cap dummy!")
...but the brown logo and park bench on the front always throws me off for a moment. :)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=335459;image)
Same. To me, even the cap looks brown next to all those other cues.
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Every time I buy this paint I have to stare at the can for like 5 seconds to make sure I'm buying the black color. (I know..."just look at the cap dummy!")
...but the brown logo and park bench on the front always throws me off for a moment. :)
Same here man. They obviously didn't do any market testing on that can design.
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I seriously hate that too. Its bad enough theres a million similar cans on the shelf. i wonder how many people buy it thinking its brown?
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Chance ...you was right man ;D
I was too heavy fingered on the clear coats.
I tried for a 4th time .... sanded front down to paint, laid 2 more coats of flat then this time.... i laid the clear right after the flat black... and just put 2 light spritzing coats of clear and turned out good.
The lights were making it look like i wasnt covering good but in reality was putting it on too heavy, i stood the cab upright this time so the lighting didnt trick me.
Still have overspray inside to clean up but time to order artwork.
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Glad to hear it went better this time! Good job on the perseverance.
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Do you guys think blue led strip lighting will look ok behind the marquee or should I order white (already have blue)
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Do you guys think blue led strip lighting will look ok behind the marquee or should I order white (already have blue)
Order white if you have other colors in the artwork.
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Do you guys think blue led strip lighting will look ok behind the marquee or should I order white (already have blue)
I'd be more concerned about the LED strip putting out enough light. (unless you snake it back and forth along rows)
Why not a fluorescent tube?
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Do you guys think blue led strip lighting will look ok behind the marquee or should I order white (already have blue)
Order white if you have other colors in the artwork.
Pic of my marquee up above (only pic i have of it on my phone and at work)
Ya I figured the blue part would look good but the red/yellow parts might look violet-ish with blue leds.
Hate to order another 15ft just for a 30" strip but its cheap so meh
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Do you guys think blue led strip lighting will look ok behind the marquee or should I order white (already have blue)
I'd be more concerned that LED strip putting out enough light. (unless you snake it back and forth along rows)
Why not a fluorescent tube?
The led strips I ordered are the 5360's or whatever ones above the 5050's...they are pretty bright and figured a single horizontal strip would work since the marquee is being printed on a translucent material.
Nothing against a fluoro just figured id go with leds since they are cheap / low heat / no tube replacement/ low profile.
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good to hear the respray worked out. :cheers:
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good to hear the respray worked out. :cheers:
It doesnt look as good as the flynn but im happy with it.... Finally feel like Im making some progress now that im past the build phase and the paint nightmare. :cheers:
Took the cab and wheeled it outside and blew it off while I rubbed it with a rag.... luckily all the overspray was just dried dust sitting on top of the finish as it all came off :applaud:
I dont think I will win any awards for the paint job but im happy with it.
Installed the coin door, ordered my u-track, worked alot of hours this week so should be able to order my artwork and buttons/sticks next week.
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Tried to email my artwork psd files to the guys who will print my vinyl.... Im wanting to leave them as psd files so he can check them over and adjust colors or anything needed but the side files are 600mb each.
Pretty sure file upload sites only offer up to 500mb files free :dunno
We both use gmail so I uploaded the files to google drive and attached them in an email but he is not getting the attachments.
:(
Whats the easiest free way to get the files to him?
Can I zip psd files?
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Whats the easiest free way to get the files to him?
Dropbox
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Whats the easiest free way to get the files to him?
Dropbox
Will it handle over 500mb files free?
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Whats the easiest free way to get the files to him?
Dropbox
Will it handle over 500mb files free?
All new Dropbox accounts and downloads, including the desktop and mobile apps, are totally free. Dropbox Basic accounts start with 2 GB of free space.
1. Once you have Dropbox installed on your computer. Place the file in the "Dropbox>Public" folder.
2. Then right-click on the file and choose "Copy Public Link"
3. Paste that download link you copied into an email to the print guy.
4. Drink a beer and wait for your artwork
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Whats the easiest free way to get the files to him?
Dropbox
Will it handle over 500mb files free?
All new Dropbox accounts and downloads, including the desktop and mobile apps, are totally free. Dropbox Basic accounts start with 2 GB of free space.
1. Once you have Dropbox installed on your computer. Place the file in the "Dropbox>Public" folder.
2. Then right-click on the file and choose "Copy Public Link"
3. Paste that download link you copied into an email to the print guy.
4. Drink a beer and wait for your artwork
Appreciate it!
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Or you could use wetransfer, can send up to 2gb per transfer (or 20gb if you get wetransferplus)
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Or you could use wetransfer
+1
I've used WeTransfer quite a bit. No signup required, just drag-n-drop your files onto your browser, type in the recipient's email, your email, a message, click send, and there you go!
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The files are uploading to wetransfer now.
Just got my u-trak.....
Anyone know what size drillbit to use for these threaded wood inserts?
Im just going with the blue ball and a blue 3 led for now..... problem is I only have about 1/4" of clearance under the u-trak for lighting. Looks like this socket needs mounted vertically and wont have the room.
I wonder if I could snip the plastic off the bottom of the led itself and just solder wires to the legs and mount it on some thin pcb board or something? Or use led strip lighting :dunno
Anyone have any ideas?
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I use Google Drive for most things. 15gb for free and no limit on file sizes.
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I first tried google drive but he said he didnt get the attachments....
Got the U-track mounted and played around with lighting using the 3 led blue bulb and the blue strip lighting I have.
The strip lighting isnt lighting it up very well so will have to rig up a low profile disk holder for the 3 led bulb.
I dont know what I was thinking ....ordering with the transparent blue ball. I should of got the pearl... would of matched my cp overlay better and could upgrade to rgb down the road. Oh well.
For future reference.... does the u-trak just take a standard 3" ball?
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No, not as attachments. You just upload the file and then send him a LINK to the file.
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I tried that too.......sending links to each file while I was at work. Never heard from him so just came home and uploaded to wetransfer
I think I screwed my theme up at the last minute.... had to get my 3 little scamps in there so added them to the marque
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For future reference.... does the u-trak just take a standard 3" ball?
Yes.
Scott
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Ordered my artwork and t-molding.
Any tips for vinyl installation?
Would really suck to mess up these $250 stickers
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Any tips for vinyl installation?
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,120041.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,120041.0.html)
Scott
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Thanks for the link....
Looking into tinted glass and plan on using "onedayglass"
They have light grey and dark grey but have no idea about the light transmission, I want something in the 20-30% range.
I know alot of crt guys love the darker tinted glass but I dont want to have to crank everything up to 100% on my led panel.
The inside of my cab is painted black so I dont mind if you can see a little bit of the screen and inside of cab but if anyone knows if the light grey will be way too light of a tint ,please let me know.
Or, if you think I should go with dark grey over the light- please let me know and explain why.
Thanks
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IMO I would go for the light gray (that's what I'm going with). If you plan on adding any guns (Aimtrak for example) the light bar has much better transmission than using the dark tinted glass. Better transmission = better consistency and accuracy :)
Nice build! Keep up the good work.
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I used OneDayGlass and went with the darker glass myself. With the intent to use guns.
First, it's expensive. I almost wish I just went with a chunk of plexi from a local supplier.
Second, don't freak out if there are a couple minor blemishes in the glass. This is not "optical quality" it's just designed for covering coffee tables and to be used as shelves. Not to sit 3" from a tv and be stared at all day. I had found I had one small blemish exactly at the spot where Mario runs to on SMB. So I had to flip and rotate it so it was out of view. Not ideal.
I'd use this guys again if I was building a tabletop arcade and needed glass for sure. But an upright like this, I'd go tinted plexi. Go through your phone book or google any plastic supply companies in your area. They'd have large 4x8 sheets they could cut you to size and sell to you by the square inch for much cheaper.
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Cool art! Looks good.
I also recommend using a local company for the glass. It'll be much cheaper. I bought some really dark stuff for my last build that had Aimtraks and the guns didn't work at all since the dark glass blocked too much of the IR transmission. You might be able to fix this issue by using some REALLY bright IR lights behind the glass but the lighter tinted glass works just fine with Aimtraks. It's not quite as sleek looking as the dark glass but as long as your room lighting isn't too bright you'll still achieve the same seamless effect as the dark glass.
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I didnt think $60-ish was too terribly bad for the quote I got on onedayglass.
Chance.... is the imperfection you have tong marks?
I read on there site that there could be tong marks on the glass from when they hang it in the oven but assumed this tong mark would be near an edge. They had an option for no tong marks but I didnt check it to see how much extra it would cost.
Ive thought about just getting a piece of 1/4" plate glass locally and applying a good quality- scratch resistant car window tint to the outside of the glass. I have installed window tint on dozens of vehicles in my life and never had a bubble or wrinkle so this could be an option.
I just figure... a piece of plate glass locally would be in the 20-40 dollar range and another $20 for a scratch resistant window tint film and then im at a price range at or exceeding the onedayglass option.
Not really wanting to go with plexi. I think it would collect scratches and haze over the years but i dont know. Probably would cost as much as the onedayglass option as well.
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Had a bit of an issue... Even though the cp box and cab were dry for a week before putting the cp box on the cab- When I removed the Cp box last night it was basically glued to the cab and ripped up a few chunks of paint. Had to spot paint and reapply some clear with a brush in those areas. I laid down some velcro to give the CP box a non stick /scratch surface. The back strip is for the glass to rest on.
I then installed a sanwa jlf with shaft extender and a button , wish I wouldnt of. Something as simple as a single stick and button now has me really eager to order all my controls :banghead:
I need to take a breath- walk away and slow down....lol....patience.
I planned on just running blue jlf sticks on the left and yellow jlf's on the right with blue and yellow led single color buttons for cost/simplicity sake.
But now Im thinking of trying those paradise led sticks p3-white, p1-blue,p2-red,p4-yellow ... with same color led buttons for the players as the sticks.
Just trying to visualize what would work best with my cp overlay. Now that I added some colors other than blue/yellow into my marquee I think it would look alright to have each player a different color although I really like the jlf stick , it is a bit sensitive (I could get stiffer springs I know) but the led sticks are the same price and would get led tops and ive heard they are pretty good sticks.
Still debating the light/dark glass vs plexi options so if anyone has any other thoughts on that topic-please fire away.
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Installing that single stick and button transforms it from a pile of wood and paint into an ARCADE CAB!!! Just resist the urge to "test" it - that will devour more time than you care to imagine.
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No, the blemishes were not tong marks. I chose the no tong mark option.
My advice: Tinted plexi. Take it or leave it.
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No, the blemishes were not tong marks. I chose the no tong mark option.
My advice: Tinted plexi. Take it or leave it.
You got the dark gray right?
How do you feel about the darkness of this tint? Would you go the same route or lighter?
Think the light gray would be too light?
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i chose the dark grey, yes. but the plexi i just bought for my other cab is about halfway between what this dark grey is and what I'm guessing the light grey on One Day Glass is. Its also more clear, lighter, and was cheaper.
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Installed a million feet of velcro to the cp box edges, glass supports, and marquee edges.
When I cleaned the edges with 90% rubbing alcohol - it made the paint turn a foggy white, so I switched to 70% rubbing alcohol and didnt have the problem.
Also Installed a lock at each corner of the cp top. the lock catches a l-shaped bracket that has a nub protruding in the middle of them, the lock catches the nub and really locks the cp down good, no play at all....worked out better than I thought it would.
Going to swap the blue trackball for a pearl one.
My artwork should be here tomorrow, I will probably wait untill the weekend to install it and the t- molding because after I do that then I will bring it into the house and still need to re-arrange and figure a spot out for it.
Im really concerned about the vinyl sticking to the satin clear finish. Its pretty smooth but has a texture to it. Im debating on whether to sand the sides and cp top with 1500 grit fine sandpaper before applying the vinyl or not. Anyone have an opinion on this? :dunno Also- should I just clean it with 70% alcohol instead of 90% since the 90% hazes the paint?
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You: **stress** **stress** **stress**
Guests: "Cool, does it play Galaga?"
Advice: unless the surface is really really bad, I would not worry about it at all. Make sure it's pretty smooth, and you'll be fine.
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Yea, unless you painted the sides of your cab with sand, then Lucian's vinyl is gonna adhere just fine.
If you are really paranoid, you can used a J Roller (http://www.amazon.com/dp/B000CP0QFC/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pd_nS_ttl?_encoding=UTF8&colid=UXLK6YBV7P2U&coliid=I30XTD9WS7HQJI) but I'm pretty sure that Lucian includes a felt-covered squeegee to press the artwork down firm.
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I had Brad Bowman print it. Not sure who Lucian is.
I got a felt squegee / razor kit off ebay for $8 ... its here waiting for the vinyl.
Never worked with vinyl before so just want to be sure it sticks and stays that way. Read too many posts about vinyl lifting up.
The paints cured for a week or more now.
So the concensus is ...dont sand...just clean with alcohol before applying?
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Brad's screen name on here is Lucian042
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Brad's screen name on here is Lucian042
oh .... lol , didnt know
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Just make sure the surface is smooth and clean and you should be fine. If it lifts, use a glue stick.
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Its relatively smooth but the satin clearcoat gives it a texture or feel of a 500-1500 grit sandpaper.
Thats why I wondered if I should use a really fine sandpaper to try and make it smoother.
Ive never worked with vinyl before so not sure how smooth is smooth enough. Its smooth but has a textured matte smoothness....not like a gloss glasslike smooth. It feels more like fine sandpaper or a fine textured plastic 3 ring binder
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I hadnt really felt the sides since I toweled and aired off all the overspray last week...
I just checked them.... pretty smooth, Im sure I was worrying for nothing. :lol
On to the next topic. I bought my u-trak new.... disassembled it to send the trackball in to swap for a pearl one and noticed 3 of the 4 plastic screw towers used to hold the 2 halves together were cracked. Not a huge deal...just hoped the u-trak plastic was durable, this isnt a sign in that direction. Whoever assembled it must of overtightened them. Anyone else notice this in theirs?
As long as they hold its no biggie I guess.
But yeah.... im sending the blue trackball in for pearl white. I figure it would look better.
Im now thinking I should get opaque white rgb buttons. I really cant afford $5+ per button but im planning to upgrade to rgb down the road so might as well do it now right.
Problem is.... I havnt researched much into the white rgb buttons. Anyone have a preference in the ones that are available?
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I'd get everything from Andy at Ultimarc if I could but I like the Electric Ice from GGG just because you can get leaf switches. Andy does have the RGB harness that plug directly into the IPAC ultimate IO.
I'm going with these:
http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=73&products_id=408 (http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=73&products_id=408)
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I was going to try paradise arcades hoku with the IL rgb disk but says they are out of stock.
I plan on ordering a sample of several buttons and a led stick to test.
Got my glass ordered.... just went with 3/16" light gray tempered from oneday.
Artwork should be here today :applaud:
I need to start getting tools for wirring. I have a couple soldering irons but not sure of there wattage.
Whats generaly a good wattage soldering iron for this hobbys needs?
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I was going to try paradise arcades hoku with the IL rgb disk but says they are out of stock.
I plan on ordering a sample of several buttons and a led stick to test.
Got my glass ordered.... just went with 3/16" light gray tempered from oneday.
Artwork should be here today :applaud:
I need to start getting tools for wirring. I have a couple soldering irons but not sure of there wattage.
Whats generaly a good wattage soldering iron for this hobbys needs?
I'm sure whatever irons you have are fine. For the MAME aspect of this hobby, a good set of crimpers is more important than a soldering iron. I only worried about soldering when I started into dedicated authentic arcade equipment.
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Ya... ive just seen that paradise has single color IL button led pcb's for $1 and thought about testing a couple out with some different buttons I was going to order but they need leads soldered on. The IL rgb's are $1.75 and have leads but out of stock so was just going to get the single color ones for now to test and get the feel/looks of the hoku buttons.
Susan said they have some in stock but cant update the site right now cause shes on a trip.
Didnt know if a certain heat range iron would be recommended....the ones I have are really old the stickers cant be read so dont know the wattage.
I hope the 3/16" glass I ordered will be thick enough. I think thats about the thickness of side car windows and they are tough. 1/4" seemed excessive and would add alot of weight. Hope I wasnt wrong about that since the price difference was about the same
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Just don't punch the glass in a fit of anger and you'll be fine.
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Got my artwork in.
Brad Bowman (Lucian045) does great work and was really helpful with all the questions I had.
His vinyl worked out great and was really easy to work with. My pictures from my phone have been really washed out lately and dont know why, the pics just didnt capture the vibrant colors but it looks great in person.
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pics with t-molding installed
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Im even more confused now on which buttons/sticks to go with.
I originally planned on the jlf's and the chrome bezeled single color buttons but then decided on translucent white rgb hoku buttons and balltops with led sticks from paradise..... I even sent my blue utrak ball in to swap out for the pearl white.
Now with the art on - I see the jlf and chrome ring buttons would be a great match.
Guess I need to order some samples from paradise..... I had a bunch of stuff in my cart ready to order but their site says they are out of IL rgb illum pads. Susan says they do have some -that she just needs to update the site but Ive been waiting days and still says sold out
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Got the marquee area finished,installed speaker grills, and received some glass. Fits good, the light gray is pretty light tinted but with the inner cab painted black it isnt too bad. Not sure if I will mask off and paint a bezel yet or not.
Ordered controls..... had to cheap out on buttons. Was going to order samples of 4 different buttons I was considering (was leaning towards hoku rgb buttons) but want to get this thing done so cut off about half the cost just going with chrome bezel led buttons from paradise. Got them with 20g switches. For joysticks ill be using extended shaft jlf led sticks and paradise led sticks for p 3 and p4.
waiting for controls to ship....ordered a good pair of wire strippers and disconnects. I guess Im going to wire using cat5 cables that I have laying around.
Still need to order ipac4 and rebuild my old gaming pc/install software.....getting close though.
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Couple questions.
Those power strips that turn all your electronics on when the pc is turned on.....what are they called or whats a general search term for them?
Also.... can anyone recommend a really good sounding pc speaker/woofer system for $50-$75? Does the sub really affect hdd's?
Thanks
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Couple questions.
Those power strips that turn all your electronics on when the pc is turned on.....what are they called or whats a general search term for them?
Smart Strip or Smart Power Strip - One pictured below ( Blue = control - green powered on/off when blue is on/off, Orange always on )
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/81-9hztw%2BUL._SL1500_.jpg)
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smart strips.
As far as the sub and HDD's... You can get a 60gb SSD for $30 these days and not worry about it.
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Im going to be using a 4tb drive for all my roms etc. I already bought a regular 500gb hdd for the OS so SS is out of the question unfortunately .
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Holy crap. A full MAME romset is 40ish gb. Once you remove all the mahjong, fruit machines, and mechanicals it's down to mid 20gb. Toss in a handful of CHD's and it still easily fits in 60gb. What all you putting in this thing?!
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Holy crap. A full MAME romset is 40ish gb. Once you remove all the mahjong, fruit machines, and mechanicals it's down to mid 20gb. Toss in a handful of CHD's and it still easily fits in 60gb. What all you putting in this thing?!
Those PS1 ISOs take up a lot of space, homes.
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Ive got a full mame romset on an external 1tb drive here that I put together a long time ago with all the videos for hyperspin.
Also have alot of the systems I had a s a kid nes,snes,tg16,3do.
Im getting some more roms from a buddy... all the newer dc and ps1 stuff.
Also want to run alot of the steam pc games I have
I dont know.... maybe I will only need 2tb but planned on 4tb just to be safe.
Im not sure which pc to run either.
My current pc is an old quad at 4.2ghz with 8gb ram and a gtx 770 oc.
I know it will run things fine but if I can get away with using this other older rig then I would prefer to.... its an old quad running at 3.2ghz with 4gb ram and gtx 650ti.
I would like to run some of the newer street fighter and mk's and maybe even mkx but dont know if the old 650ti is up to it
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Ah, videos. Yeah - I can see that soaking space. :) I've always kept it simple as possible. ROMS, snaps, maybe marquees. That's about it. And I've never used HyperSpin. Kinda bugs me when the front end consumes more resources than the games.
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Yeah... and im sure hyperspin will be a pain in the ass to setup ... I had it running good years ago but have since reformated that pc and forgot everything I knew about it so I will be back to square 1 .
A part of me wants to just run with the harddrive I have with a mame set but I have invisioned a full hyperspin setup for many years so going to travel down that path of many headaches lol
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HyperSpin is sexy as hell when it's setup properly. I just failed that particular skill check. Honestly, I think I rolled a critical fumble.
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Jeez, set up HS once, make a copy of the folder, archive it, and file it away. I've been using the same setup since 2011 with no issues. I even set up a NEWER version Hyperspin install for a buddy but still use my old version for my own projects.
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2011 is probably about the time I last setup hyperspin. Any idea what all has changed since then or has it been mostly stability updates/patches?
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2011 is probably about the time I last setup hyperspin. Any idea what all has changed since then or has it been mostly stability updates/patches?
I dunno, I last did a set up two summers ago.
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I set me up earlier this year but I'm not familiar with the older versions. If everything works and you're happy with it I'd probably just update your emulators and leave hyperspin/hyperlaunch alone. We all know how deep that rabbit hole can go.
Man you cabinet is looking nice! That MK art looks great.
Can you post a link for those locks? I think I'll do those on my NASA build.
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They were just some cheap ebay locks
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=261134840973&alt=web (http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=261134840973&alt=web)
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They were just some cheap ebay locks
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=261134840973&alt=web (http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=261134840973&alt=web)
Ah, sweet. Thanks! Those barrel locks are kinda sexy.
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They were just some cheap ebay locks
http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=261134840973&alt=web (http://pages.ebay.com/link/?nav=item.view&id=261134840973&alt=web)
Ah, sweet. Thanks! Those barrel locks are kinda sexy.
They felt a little gritty at first, I applied a drop of superlube to a key and worked the locks...they are breaking in good.
Man a little progress today while waiting for controls to arrive.
Pulled the glass out and installed som black automotive edge trim to the top of the glass (looks much better) then cleaned the tv , and glass for final install.
Got the computer reformatted, spliced a molex for 12v and 5v to supply leds.
Found a antec lansig speaker/sub system I forgot I had in the basement.....woot...freebeee
Got the bottom of cab, marquee, and coin reject leds wired/soldered/installed.
Saved some hyperspin youtube demo videos and a mk2 playthrough video to the pc to play for now to see how the tv looks with the light tinted onedayglass piece.
Got the pc in, everything hooked up, the tv picture looks amazing. Im super excited now to finish this cab! Just putting the pc in there to loop some videos really gave me a glimpse of how sweet it is to have a cab in the house. Im already planning a bartop build for the kids now lol.
Hopefully my controls come this week.
2 led lit jlf's, 2 led lit paradise sticks, and for now just rolling with the chrome bezeled led buttons.
Got 100 .187 disconnects, and 100ft of cat5 cable ready for wiring. Had to order 100 .250 disconnects after I realized the led terminals on the buttons are .250.
Things left to order.....Ipac4, rgb led for utrak, and a bigger hdd to transfer my mame set on and start getting my other systems setup.
Question....... Im running windows 7 64.... I dont need to completely hide windows (im ok with the cursor) but would like to make a custom windows load screen, and have it boot right to hyperspin....
Any links or guides to accomplish this?
thanks
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Use a program called Windows 7 Boot Updater to change the Windows boot animation.
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Use a program called Windows 7 Boot Updater to change the Windows boot animation.
Yep. Its really easy. You will still have your Bios (http://support.hp.com/doc-images/157/c02120758.jpg) screen though. I just went with a black desktop background with all icons deleted, auto hide the taskbar and have hyperspin start up on boot, and have the pc shut down on button press. Hides windows good enough for me, as I'm always tinkering in the background.
Enjoying your build quite a bit BTW. Looks great.
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Use a program called Windows 7 Boot Updater to change the Windows boot animation.
Yep. Its really easy. You will still have your Bios (http://support.hp.com/doc-images/157/c02120758.jpg) screen though. I just went with a black desktop background with all icons deleted, auto hide the taskbar and have hyperspin start up on boot, and have the pc shut down on button press. Hides windows good enough for me, as I'm always tinkering in the background.
Enjoying your build quite a bit BTW. Looks great.
Thanks.....
Ive read of people using a windows shell that only lets htperspin and the needed system files to run....is this necessary?
:applaud: My controls were delivered.
Too bad im stuck at work and have to work overtime.
:banghead: I should of called off today and got some wiring done lol.
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Ive read of people using a windows shell that only lets htperspin and the needed system files to run....is this necessary?
I would advise against shelling Hyperspin on Windows. It's a major PITA to do and doesn't gain you that much performance anyway. Plus it's an even bigger PITA when you need to get back into windows to filddle with anything.
Just change/remove the windows boot animation, change the desktop wallpaper to solid black, hide the taskbar and change the mouse cursor to a simple back cross-hair. (http://www.mp3car.com/software-faqs-solutions-tutorials/122408-tutorial-hide-windows-cursor-transparent.html)
Now if you really want to get crazy. Follow all the steps on the 2nd post of this thread. (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=113896.0)
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Thanks.....
Ive read of people using a windows shell that only lets htperspin and the needed system files to run....is this necessary?
Up to you to decide. If the windows startup sounds and sights (cursor) bug you the instant sheller program is really easy to do on Win7 and can be reversed quite easily too. Just youtube it.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eSbLdv1ZRGA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eSbLdv1ZRGA) (on xp, but same principle)
edit: listen to ^^ a guy who has done it before. I haven't shelled mine and likely wont. Mine looks pretty damn good without shelling.
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Thanks.....
Ive read of people using a windows shell that only lets htperspin and the needed system files to run....is this necessary?
Up to you to decide. If the windows startup sounds and sights (cursor) bug you the instant sheller program is really easy to do on Win7 and can be reversed quite easily too. Just youtube it.
edit: listen to ^^ a guy who has done it before. I haven't shelled mine and likely wont. Mine looks pretty damn good without shelling.
I've have not personally used Instant Sheller but I've heard it does not fully work on Windows 7. Verbage from their website:
"Its for Windows XP Service pack 2 and above, Vista and Windows 7 although for full functionality XP is required. It also requires the .net framework 2 service pack 1 or above."
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Oh! ....remember to turn OFF windows updates. You will thank me later! ;)
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First thing i did after formating lol.
Yeah...im going to skip shelling.... boot logo,background change is good enough for me.
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Got some controls in..... unfortunately all my buttons are missing the microswitches and leds.
Also missing a jlf hollow shaft. I did get a second tracking number today so hopefully all the bits are in route.
I ordered a led jlf and the parts needed to light the jlf I already have.
The jlf I already have looks completely different than the one I just got and dont know why.
Mine has switches on a pcb board with pins for output and uses a harness.
The one I just got I like better as the switches are all exposed and can be wired directly.
Are these two different models?
:dunno
Will there be any issues installing the hollow shaft/led in the jlf that uses a harness?
I dont see anything on any of my led sticks (2 jlf led sticks, 2 paradise led sticks)to prevent the led wires from twisting.... do I need to order slip rings or something?
Kind of wish I would of shelled out for the hoku white rgb buttons or the clear ring/black plunger.
Not super fond of the color scheme I got going with the buttons but I can always change those down the road.
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The PCB with harness rig is the Jap version. Not sure if the other parts are interchangeable.
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The PCB with harness rig is the Jap version. Not sure if the other parts are interchangeable.
I had no idea there were different versions....arggggg. guess I need to order another jlf
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If you have the crimp connectors, couldn't you just crimp male lugs on the free wires coming off the PCB harness, then connect to those without having to order another jlf?
The PCB with harness rig is the Jap version. Not sure if the other parts are interchangeable.
I had no idea there were different versions....arggggg. guess I need to order another jlf
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If you have the crimp connectors, couldn't you just crimp male lugs on the free wires coming off the PCB harness, then connect to those without having to order another jlf?
There are no wires coming off the PCB, it's designed to take a 5 pin plug.
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Right, what I meant was the wires coming off the 5-pin plug. Unless that wasn't included...
If you have the crimp connectors, couldn't you just crimp male lugs on the free wires coming off the PCB harness, then connect to those without having to order another jlf?
There are no wires coming off the PCB, it's designed to take a 5 pin plug.
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The pcb is interchangeable with micro switches.
Also the only damn difference is a common ground.
You don't need another jlf.
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I just dismantled the pcb jlf and the pcb part lifts off and is removeable.....is there a regular microswitch one that I can drop in?
I do have 2 jlf harnesses and a conversion harness that I ordered for
"i dont know what this is but ill buy for just in case reasons" lol
So ill have no problems installing the led kit. I would just rather have everything under the hood match.....(ocd?) :dizzy:
I replaced the 1lb spring in the new jlf with a 3lb spring... allong with the extended shaft it feels perfect!
I kinda wonder if I should of went with all white buttons....or half blue half yellow.
I think the ticket would of been the clear ring/black plunger but couldnt justify waiting to save and drop $400 for controls....im getting impatient and want it done.
Although my cp now is looking like a lollipop factory lmao.... oh well, it might look better lit up and the kids like it :-\
I figured the led sticks would have slip-rings installed but guess not. Is wire tangling a real issue im likely to face?
How hard is it to install slip rings and where do you get them?
Just when you think your getting close..... more and more to do lol.
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+1 for half blue and half yellow. Of course IMHO LED sticks and buttons are stupid but to each his own.
You can just put in four non levered micro switches where the pcb was. There are little holes in the side of them, its easy just take of the clear restrictior remove the pcb slap in any old micro switches and you're done. If you only ran one ground wire for the sticks just daisy chain the grounds.
You're making it harder than it is.
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that looks awesome, good job :applaud:
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Yeah ... couldnt make my mind up on buttons. Kept flopping from the hokus to the clear ringed to these.
ended up being a cheap ass and now regretting the lollipop factory.
oh well.... the buttons were cheap. I can always throw some different balltops on and swap out buttons.
Probablly go rgb with all white hoku buttons/balltops, or smoked balltops and clear/black buttons.....
Cant decide what would look better.
im going to build the kids a bartop so these buttons can go into that.
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that looks awesome, good job :applaud:
serious or sarcasm? :laugh2:
I dont know, everytime I look at the joysticks I think some kid will try n rip one off and start licking it.
seriously ... I just think the red looks out of place. Thinking about yellow for player 2 and white for p4
Found slip rings on ebay for $6
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I'm in the planning stages of making a Control Panel exactly like the one you've made here. I've read elsewhere that in order to have a 4p setup with a trackball and LEDs, then you'd need 2 I-PAC Ultimarc I/Os. I'm assuming one is wired for 2 players and a trackball and the other is wired for the other 2 players (since Ultimarc says one Ultimate I/O does not support 4p with trackball). Is that what you did on your build? I'm just concerned because I've also read posts from people saying their system cannot recognize two separate I/Os. So I'm just kind of confused on what to purchase in order to have 4p w/ a trackball and LEDs.
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I believe your pc wont recognize 2 seperate io ultimates.
For now im only going to run single color leds so just running the ipac4 and providing power to the leds from the power supply.
I got the utrak with usb.
For this cp and rgb leds you would need the ipac4 and two pac64led's
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Oh gotcha. I thought you were doing RGB, but I see now where you discussed it in the thread. Thanks for clearing things up for me, I can get to ordering now!
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You can use 2 IPAC-U IO's(I am in my build). One of the UIOs has to have specific firmware on it to change the ID. IMO Running 2 UIO's is a little bit cleaner overall, but using an I-PAC4 combined with 2 PACLED64's and USB U-TRAK as deezdrama pointed out would work just fine as well :)
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Where the hell can you find 22awg wire at brick and mortar stores?
Went to 4 different places- lowes,farm and fleet, walmart, rural king.
Smallest gauge I could find was 18. I have some 22 awg black coming from ebay but want to get started now.
I have tons of old cat5 cable I was going to use for wiring the buttons.
Concerned the wire is too small for long chains of 34 buttons plus joysticks....
Or would the 24awg from cat5 be fine for long 12v and 5v daisy chains?
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You've gonna pump 12v through CAT5 strands? :dizzy:
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Where the hell can you find 22awg wire at brick and mortar stores?
Went to 4 different places- lowes,farm and fleet, walmart, rural king.
Smallest gauge I could find was 18. I have some 22 awg black coming from ebay but want to get started now.
I have tons of old cat5 cable I was going to use for wiring the buttons.
Concerned the wire is too small for long chains of 34 buttons plus joysticks....
Or would the 24awg from cat5 be fine for long 12v and 5v daisy chains?
Man you gotta find you a hobby store around your area, or a radio shack, Fry's etc, or even your local craigslist, some folks surplus wire and practically give it away.
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You've gonna pump 12v through CAT5 strands? :dizzy:
My instinct was no, asked to confirm. Didnt know if anyones done it.
Its cool to run the cat5 24awg for input wiring though right?
Whats the min awg that 12v could be daisy chained through 34 buttons? 22awg?
Maybe I should of just got the 18 awg :dunno
I have a radio shack....its just clear on the other end of town but will probably make it out there fri.
Theres an RC shop near me.... wonder if they would carry any
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RC shop will have it, they have spools of all guage wire...
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Sweet.... that will be on the way home tomorrow.
When I ordered buttons from paradise ...there p1 p2 p3 p4 25€ button insert page on the site wouldnt load....
Anyone know who carries nice looking ones?
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Im ordering my ipac4 tomorrow. The usb version doesnt have a keyboard passthrough?
Does the ps2 version have the interactive utility?
Im also getting a pac drive to rgb light my utrak and figure Ill also grab 4 rgb leds to light my admin buttons with rgb.
All the rest of my buttons are single color 12v led's. Can I use a output on the pac drive to daisy chain the single color led buttons or will that not work and I should just wire them to my power supply like I originally planned?
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Im ordering my ipac4 tomorrow. The usb version doesnt have a keyboard passthrough?
Does the ps2 version have the interactive utility?
Im also getting a pac drive to rgb light my utrak and figure Ill also grab 4 rgb leds to light my admin buttons with rgb.
All the rest of my buttons are single color 12v led's. Can I use a output on the pac drive to daisy chain the single color led buttons or will that not work and I should just wire them to my power supply like I originally planned?
Why not buy an Ultimate IO, it only $5 more than buying an ipac4 and a pacdrive? You would have enough led outputs to all light of your buttons individually and do things like only light the buttons used based on the game you select.
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You've gonna pump 12v through CAT5 strands? :dizzy:
My instinct was no, asked to confirm. Didnt know if anyones done it.
It can be done, depending on how much current you need to run through the wire.
Its cool to run the cat5 24awg for input wiring though right?
Yes. Most of the pre-crimped input wires and daisy chains that I've bought are 24 AWG.
You could use 30 AWG (or smaller) for inputs since they only draw a few milliamps, but wires that small are harder to work with and easier to damage.
Whats the min awg that 12v could be daisy chained through 34 buttons? 22awg?
Voltage isn't the possible issue here, it's how many amps you need for the LEDs.
Test the current draw of a single LED if you aren't sure about the specs on your LEDs -- most draw 20 mA, but some draw more.
(The Helio9 RGB LEDs from GGG draw 165 mA -- 55 mA per color :dizzy:)
Once you know the current draw per LED, the math is easy.
Number of LEDs * current draw per LED = total current draw.
34 LEDs * 20 mA/LED = 680 mA = 0.68 Amps total
According to the American Wire Gauge (AWG) Sizes and Properties Table here (http://diyaudioprojects.com/Technical/American-Wire-Gauge/),
- 22 AWG "Max Current [Amperes]" rating is 0.92 Amps
-- Large enough to power all your LEDs on a single 12v daisy-chain with a single ground daisy-chain.
- 24 AWG "Max Current [Amperes]" rating is 0.577 Amps
-- You can use it if you divide the 34 LEDs into two daisy-chains of about 17 each (340 mA) and still have lots of wiggle room.
- 30 AWG "Max Current [Amperes]" rating is 0.142 Amps
-- I wouldn't use it for more than 5 LEDs (100 mA) per daisy-chain -- not a good choice for this project IMHO. :lol
Scott
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Regardless of what the Scottbot says, I certainly wouldn't be running any current through cat 5 wire. Just because you can do it doesn't mean you should do it. Use proper electrical wire. You'll feel better about it.
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Thanks guys..... ill check the draw on my leds and probably end up with 20-22awg.
As for the ultimate IO.... I havnt read much on them because I didnt plan on any rgb leds untill yesterday.
I have 30 buttons + 4 admin plus the 16 needed for joysticks = 50
I think the ult IO has 48 but could live without 2 admin buttons I guess.
I have 2 coin switches but planned on piggybacking those to the coin button switches so no problems there.
I have no idea what admin buttons are even needed ...would 2 be enough?
Also never thought about driving the single color leds with a controller.
What would I have to do....daisy chain 12v to all pos leds and negs to the Ult io?
Could the ult IO support 34 buttons plus rgb trackball?
Anyone have suggestions...? Im ordering tonight
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I personally would stick with 4 admin buttons. IE for hyperspin FE (sorry I only know that one) I use select, favorites, genre, exit...in game they map to select, misc(bezel change, config menu, etc..), pause, exit
So you have 50inputs, USB trackball, 4 RGB joysticks. That's 165 LED channels. (this is assuming you are doing RGB on every button)
UIO will do a max of 48 inputs (trackball uses 4, spinner uses 2 and buttons use 1),96 LED channels. Per Andy you can map all the trackball and spinner pins so that you can utilize all 48 for buttons
You can map the trackball as buttons instead which will give 4 extra, or the spinner to buttons instead which would give 2 extra.
So your options are (Sticking with Ultimarc products here)
48buttons (only 2 admin buttons), USB Trackball, 159 LED channels
-1 UIO + 1 PAC64LED (48 inputs, 160 LED channels)
-IPAC4 (56 inputs) + 3x PACLED64 (192 channels)
50inputs, USB trackball, and 165 LED channels
-IPAC4 (56 inputs) + 3x PACLED64 (192 channels)
-2x UIO's (96 inputs) (192 LED channels)
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I personally would stick with 4 admin buttons. IE for hyperspin FE (sorry I only know that one) I use select, favorites, genre, exit...in game they map to select, misc(bezel change, config menu, etc..), pause, exit
So you have 50inputs, USB trackball, 4 RGB joysticks. That's 165 LED channels. (this is assuming you are doing RGB on every button)
UIO will do a max of 48 inputs (trackball uses 4, spinner uses 2 and buttons use 1),96 LED channels. Per Andy you can map all the trackball and spinner pins so that you can utilize all 48 for buttons
You can map the trackball as buttons instead which will give 4 extra, or the spinner to buttons instead which would give 2 extra.
So your options are (Sticking with Ultimarc products here)
48buttons (only 2 admin buttons), USB Trackball, 159 LED channels
-1 UIO + 1 PAC64LED (48 inputs, 160 LED channels)
-IPAC4 (56 inputs) + 3x PACLED64 (192 channels)
50inputs, USB trackball, and 165 LED channels
-IPAC4 (56 inputs) + 3x PACLED64 (192 channels)
-2x UIO's (96 inputs) (192 LED channels)
He's not lighting every input and currently has single color buttons for the controls. If you went full RGB you would have 4 Joysticks, 2x7 buttons for P1 & P2, 2x4 buttons for P3 and P4, 4 start buttons, 4 coin buttons and lets say 2 admin buttons and 1 track ball, for a total of 37 buttons or 111 channels.
Now drop the Start, Coin and Admin buttons to single colors, that's 27 RGB leds and 10 single color or 91 channels. Now you can save the cost of a second led driver.
For admin 2 buttons should be plenty, I would use Pause and Exit, or Favorites and Exit, then use the shift function for anything else.
You may need to verify that the Ultimate IO will work with your 12V leds, the PacLED64 will, but I couldn't find a voltage range for the UIO.
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Thanks guys for breaking things down..... its starting to get overwhelming for a noob lol.....
Im just going to stick with an ipac4 and a pacdrive for now. Ill just do my utrak and 4 admin buttons in rgb for now....and probably my coin reject lights.
I want to keep wiring fairly easy on my first build.
Will go full rgb on next cab or on this one once I get the feel for everything.
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Actually, I guarantee you on your next one, you're going to live by the Mantra "less is more". It happens to all of us. First cabinet is where you think all the bling is good stuff, then you realize it doesn't improve game play at all, and so you simplify on your next couple builds.
Unless, of course, you're building it for someone else.
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Your right about that.... if I would of went for a 22" monitor 2p cab without bling I would of been done months ago.
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Love my bling
Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk
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Love my bling
Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk
Sent from my LG-H811 using Tapatalk
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What buttons are you using?
I think it will be worth it in the end. Next cab is just going to be 2p though for sure.
I want to run hoku, electric ice type rgb buttons but could not justify spending that much on 4p
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I ordered a led jlf and the parts needed to light the jlf I already have.
The jlf I already have looks completely different than the one I just got and dont know why.
Mine has switches on a pcb board with pins for output and uses a harness.
I figured out why the jlf i just got from paradise feels/sounds so much better. It has cherry switches.
Now I need to order 4 more for the other jlf.
Anyone know if I just need to order the pushbutton cherry switches?
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Just thought about something.
How can I get my tv to turn on with the computer? I know my ps3 turns my tv on but think it was a setting in the ps3 to do this.
Even if I got a smart strip.... just giving it power when the pc is switched on wont actually turn it on will it?
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I don't know how to say it without sounding like a complete ass but....
Have you ever looked at the Wiki or the parent site of these forums? Alot of the questions you have are addressed and you don't have to wait for members to answer.
There are ways to accomplish what you want how you do it depends largely on if the TV has power return. Check that first.
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Says right in the thread title "lots of questions"
I have a large queue of questions, ive been working 12 hour shifts and running kids around, seems like all my free time is researching into this cab and dumping money into it.
I planned on searching on the tv power issue but too busy researching on swapping my jlf pcb for cherry switches.
So figured either someone could point me in right direction or just ignore the question.
I started this thread with the intent to document alot of the questions and answers one might stumble into in this hobby since im a complete noob to it. It wasnt untill I stumbled upon chances well documented build that I had the confidence to start mine.
But he has more knowledge of the hobby so left alot of the simple things out.
Im just trying to keep a document of all the hurdles it takes for a noob to complete a project like this.....in hopes it may help someone else one day.
If not....well then I wasted my time typing.... no big deal.
Sometimes when your overwhelmed with questions that you might not need an answer too that second ...you want to get it out before you forget.
Anyway ya..... sorry if its all covered but I need to get this project complete and it feels lile its consumed the last 3 months of my life and figured it was an easy question with an easy answer
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Just thought about something.
How can I get my tv to turn on with the computer? I know my ps3 turns my tv on but think it was a setting in the ps3 to do this.
Even if I got a smart strip.... just giving it power when the pc is switched on wont actually turn it on will it?
From my experience, once the TV is turned on with the remote, it stays in that state. Think about a drill with the locking trigger, if the trigger is locked and no power, then its off, plug it in then it comes on.
So with your smart strip the PC will command the other peripherals through it, once the PC comes one it will trigger power and your TV will come on at the same time, and shut down when the PC shuts down.
I don't know how to say it without sounding like a complete ass but....
Have you ever looked at the Wiki or the parent site of these forums? Alot of the questions you have are addressed and you don't have to wait for members to answer.
There are ways to accomplish what you want how you do it depends largely on if the TV has power return. Check that first.
Sometimes its better to hear from a human based on experiences, deezdrama was nice enough to provide input on my MKX video card question, even though im sure my question was addressed in a wiki somewhere. The wiki is a nice resource but some folks value the advice in the threads and can revert to the wiki for further peace of mind.
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Just thought about something.
How can I get my tv to turn on with the computer? I know my ps3 turns my tv on but think it was a setting in the ps3 to do this.
Even if I got a smart strip.... just giving it power when the pc is switched on wont actually turn it on will it?
From my experience, once the TV is turned on with the remote, it stays in that state. Think about a drill with the locking trigger, if the trigger is locked and no power, then its off, plug it in then it comes on.
So with your smart strip the PC will command the other peripherals through it, once the PC comes one it will trigger power and you TV will come on at the same time, and shut down when the PC shuts down.
I don't know how to say it without sounding like a complete ass but....
Have you ever looked at the Wiki or the parent site of these forums? Alot of the questions you have are addressed and you don't have to wait for members to answer.
There are ways to accomplish what you want how you do it depends largely on if the TV has power return. Check that first.
Sometimes its better to hear from a human based on experiences, deezdrama was nice enough to provide input on my MKX video card question, even though im sure my question was addressed in a wiki somewhere. The wiki is a nice resource but some folks value the advise in the threads and can revert to the wiki for further peace of mind.
Thanks man... appreciate it.
I dont think he meant much disrespect...
Im sure people get sick of mame cab noobs questions but its in my title lol.
This forum has a mixed atmosphere.... but ive learned alot and will try and give back when I can.
So did you pick out your 900 series gtx for your build?
I have an old xeon processor that I oc'ed to 4.4ghz in my game rig, got the same processor in the mame pc but cant get it to oc over 3ghz so looks like im in the market for a better motherboard cause I know that cpu is capable of 4ghz with no sweat.
But yeah....so im trying to research like 100 things at once and just had to get the tv question out there before I forgot.
This project has been a long journey. Im kinda ocd about ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- and once I start something I cant just drag it out and have patience.
At work on my breaks im researching ,when im waiting at kids school researching, when im at home up later than O should....researching.
Lol..... im just in the mindframe where I need to get this done so I can stop obsessing ....even if I have to take a few shortcuts.
Now my boy wants me to build a bartop for xmas :dizzy:
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Nahhh, Harvey is cool, and no disrespect was meant by my comment. However I had the same dumb question, and my answer wasn't found in a wiki, a member explained how that worked.
We all are pretty pungent in our comments, but you actually try to help out with your own expertise, so i was just returning the favor man.
I posted the total spec in the software section, i think i'm all set, your advice helped tons.......
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Yeah.... looking forward to your build.... when you starting on it?
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already started
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,147663.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,147663.0.html)
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Omg..... my fingers hurt!
Started wiring at 7am and just now got done (2am)
Next time I will use premade daisy chains!
Its not as neat as I hoped but it will do. The big tape ball in the middle is the excess wiring (untill my ipac4 gets here)
The 4 admin buttons and the utrak will be rgb once the pac drive gets here as well.
Also left alot of wire slack for the joysticks untill the slip rings come and I figure the best way to mount them.
The paradise led buttons are pretty decent for as cheap as they are, the switch holders are a pita to snap in place, broke the tabs off a few of the buttons because they are so hard to get on.
But with the 20g zippy switches they feel great.
Ordered a 2tb harddrive, going to transfer over my hyperspin mame set and a buddy is going to hook me up with some hyperspin sets he has.
Still need to wire my coin mechs to my coin buttons and do some major wire management in the back of the cab. Got some cherry switches and oversized actuators for the jlf's coming. I should of ordered more for the p3 and p4 sticks....they are super loud clicky.
The kids are getting excited.... hopefully will be done in a week or two.....software setup is always the pita.
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wow just wow....I cant believe this is your first build lol. the attention to detail from the woodwork, controls,artwork to the wiring is just fantastic.
you should be very proud of what you have built.
well done :applaud: sir I salute you :notworthy:
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wow just wow....I cant believe this is your first build lol. the attention to detail from the woodwork, controls,artwork to the wiring is just fantastic.
you should be very proud of what you have built.
well done :applaud: sir I salute you :notworthy:
Thank you...
Ive always been into building things and diy projects, building computers, automotive sound installs, and dozens of other hobbies ive gotten in and out of so I kind of just took a little experience sprinkled from other experiences and just cheated and used chances build as guidance lol.... im actually a little let down that I took a few shortcuts but really needing to button this build up.
The next one I can take my time with and get creative.
I really appreciate the comment!
This hobby sheds light and gives me a newfound respect for all the people in this hobby!
Im already wanting to build another one now :dizzy:
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Getting close to being done. Did some cable management in the back of the cab,wired in the smart strip, installed the ipac 4....
I messed around with my old 500gb mame/hyperspin drive ive had for years and gave up. Took a 2 tb drive and had my buddy copy his drive for me.
Mame is working fine.... still need to install virtual drive etc for alot of the systems to run.
Im having a weird problem in mame. in 4 player games players 1,2,and 3 work fine but I hit coin up on player 4 and when I hit button 1 to start nothing happens, this happened on several games I tried.
If I open notepad and hit p4 button1 it registers as B just like it should.
I lnow its a dumb question but maybe someone has an idea. Will have to do some reading tomorrow after work.....
Still not sure how to map my admin buttons. I have 4 connected to player 4 sw 5,6,7,and 8.
Not sure if I need to remap them in hyperspin,mame, or?
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Getting close to being done. Did some cable management in the back of the cab,wired in the smart strip, installed the ipac 4....
I messed around with my old 500gb mame/hyperspin drive ive had for years and gave up. Took a 2 tb drive and had my buddy copy his drive for me.
Mame is working fine.... still need to install virtual drive etc for alot of the systems to run.
Im having a weird problem in mame. in 4 player games players 1,2,and 3 work fine but I hit coin up on player 4 and when I hit button 1 to start nothing happens, this happened on several games I tried.
If I open notepad and hit p4 button1 it registers as B just like it should.
I lnow its a dumb question but maybe someone has an idea. Will have to do some reading tomorrow after work.....
Still not sure how to map my admin buttons. I have 4 connected to player 4 sw 5,6,7,and 8.
Not sure if I need to remap them in hyperspin,mame, or?
Press "tab" in MAME to open the menu and go to "Input general" to ensure your IPac mapping matches MAME's mapping.
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Getting close to being done. Did some cable management in the back of the cab,wired in the smart strip, installed the ipac 4....
I messed around with my old 500gb mame/hyperspin drive ive had for years and gave up. Took a 2 tb drive and had my buddy copy his drive for me.
Mame is working fine.... still need to install virtual drive etc for alot of the systems to run.
Im having a weird problem in mame. in 4 player games players 1,2,and 3 work fine but I hit coin up on player 4 and when I hit button 1 to start nothing happens, this happened on several games I tried.
If I open notepad and hit p4 button1 it registers as B just like it should.
I lnow its a dumb question but maybe someone has an idea. Will have to do some reading tomorrow after work.....
Still not sure how to map my admin buttons. I have 4 connected to player 4 sw 5,6,7,and 8.
Not sure if I need to remap them in hyperspin,mame, or?
Press "tab" in MAME to open the menu and go to "Input general" to ensure your IPac mapping matches MAME's mapping.
Ok thanks.... I figured it was something simple. Ill check it out when I get home.
Finally get my cab done and stuck in this factory all day and its my bday.... I should of been sick today :D
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I went in mame and set all the inputs and got all those working.
Now everytime I load a game theres like a second instance of hyperspin that pops up and just gets stuck at a loading splash screen.
I can hit exit and in the background I can hear mame running but cant get the loading screen to go away.
I can alt tab and it wont go to desktop.
Task manager doesnt even show anything running.
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Are you using rocketlauncher or hyperlaunch? Shut off fade to see what the issue is. I honestly don't like the fade option even when the emulator is working properly. I've had that fade screen stay on with everything closed - the only way to get it off is to stop rocketlauncher/hyperlaunch. (Hyperlaunch HQ tab)
(http://i39.servimg.com/u/f39/17/82/99/44/fade11.jpg)
If you are using an older version of hyperspin without hyperlaunch/rocketlauncher I'm not sure how to shut off fade. I bought one of those "pre-configured" drives from the internet and it had HS 1.2 on it and all the games launched with HyperHQ. Very difficult to add systems so I started with a fresh install of rocketlauncher and HS 1.4.
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Im hoping I just had some key conflicts.
I remapped all my controls in the ipac config utility to keys that wouldnt function in windows and cause issues if my system hangs on that fade in loading screen.
Im now remapping in mame....
I assume I only need to assign the up,down,left,right directions but there is p1 right/up , p1 right/down etc.....
I dont need to map those for diagonal directions correct?
How do I clear them from inputs?
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I also notice mame has P set to paus3 but this is now set for my player 3 #1 button.
Infact mame has keys set for everything. Thats probably why Ive had conflicts and hanging screens.
Is there a way to clear all mames keybinds?
Then just go in and set what I need?
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How do I clear them from inputs?
enter, then delete
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How do I clear them from inputs?
enter, then delete
Ok thanks...
I just need the up,down,left,right directions and not the diagonals?
Should I just clear all the mame ui inputs?
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Correct, and I would only remap the buttons you are mapping.
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Ok
What about all the mahjong,hanafuda,pedal,reel,paddle etc..... they are all mapped but dont know if I should clear them.
I cleared all the main controls and remapped them.
Sofar im not getting any issues with the fade screen popping up and hanging.
But the issue im getting now is my coin and start buttons are not working as intended.
Ive set the start and select buttons to my player start and coin buttons but its still using 5 as my player 1 coin button but my coin button is set to z
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Double check your mapping in ipac software. Just a hunch. Make sure you are changing general not this machine
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Ive quadruple checked.
Ipac and mame general inputs all set to match but button 1 still starts game, and buttons 5,6 are still acting as player 1,2 coin buttons
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Oh.... they are in "other controls" lol nevermind
What do p1 start and p1 select do in player controls then if start and coin are found in "other controls"
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Open notepad and press those buttons to verify what they are mapped as
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Open notepad and press those buttons to verify what they are mapped as
Yep they all work in notepad.
Its because I was assigning them in player inputs under "p1 select" and "p1 start"
The start and coin functions I needed were found under "other controls"
Im just now wondering what the first two under player inputs are used for?
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Got all the wiring pretty much done, pacdrive installed (still no clue how to setup or use the trackball hehe)
Id say its pretty much completed although I fear my software journey has just begun.
Having a hell of a headache trying to get emulators reconfigured to my controls and half of em cant even get them to run.
I think Im just going to order a fresh 2tb HDD... install the newest hyperspin/mame/etc on it. That way I will know whats on it and how to configure it.
I want mame,nes, super nes, tg16 and cd, sega and cd, jaguar, 3DO, atomiswave, mugen,dreamcast, and some newer pc games like shank , sf4, mkx.
Any honest idea of a time estimate it will take to learn to compile all of the above? I have most of the artwork already :dunno
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Hey Frank....
My hyperspin is 1.2 0 and mame is .149
So its old and having alot of issues running other systems.
Should I definately start over with a fresh install of new software?
Im looking at a new 3tb drive to build on.
Will the artwork on my new drive transfer over without issues?
What about all my other systems.... will those roms work with the newest emulator versions?
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Its a marathon not a race. >:D You could spend endless hours on hyperspin trying to set up every system under the sun and only play a handful of them.
I would do one system an evening (1-2hrs), and get it perfect. Controls, bezels, scanlines, etc.
Figure out how to configure retroarch and you're on your way to 90% of the systems out there. It does all the consoles you mentioned. Each one has to be configured manually though.
The videos and artwork are the easy part.
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Ive been following simply austins videos and spent all last night and half of today on this....
Slowly making progress (not really) :laugh2:
I got my new 2tb drive.... formated.
Installed all the prerequisites for HS (dx 9,net4.0, c+,etc etc etc)
Got hs 1.4 and rocketlauncher up and running.....
Setup retroarch ( so does it handle all cart based games only or it does a good job with cd based stuff too?)
Now im dealing with mame.
Using mameiufx nonag (wish it kept hiscores but couldnt find a .167 that does.
I have a mame .167 with nonag and hiscores but austin uses maneuifx so figured id follow that route :dunno
Copying my mame chd's over now.....
2 hours :banghead:
Will I need a mame database or xml file?
Once i get mame setup is there anyway to remove all the non working chd's taking up space?
update,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,
Ive got mameuifx installed in HS and all my roms/chd's
Everything shows up and is playable.
Id like to get rid of all the mojhong crap but cant find any database file for .167
anyone know where to find one that cuts the casino,majhong roms out?
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Romlister can create xml files however you want. I haven't used it, just downloaded all the files this morning but it keeps crashing on me. Maybe its the 32 bit laptop I'm using.
controls.xml file:
http://controls.arcadecontrols.com/ (http://controls.arcadecontrols.com/)
I usually just make sure mame only runs on "wheels only" on hyperspin, filters out a lot of crap easily, then use the genres to help narrow down and create a favourites list.
As for your earlier question about emulators, I think once you get retroarch set up it does like 90% of consoles, including cd based ones. Its almost a frontend on its own with a bunch of emulators inside. For example you are really using Nestopia, inside of retroarch, not actually retroarch.
The problems I'm having with it are: 1. Poor/stutturing sound. I think shutting off vsync is an easy fix but not sure if it is the right fix. 2. I don't think I'm getting accurate game speed on NES, on certain games. When I open up SMB2, the theme song is playing at around 125% speed by default. Not sure how to fix that, when I switch to nestopia emulator it plays normal.
So I haven't got it configured, yet.
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Well, I bit the bullet and donated to HB and Emumovies.
Ive got mame and sega genesis completely setup sofar with all vids and themes.
Your were right.... Blows my old drive away! :applaud:
Im still confused on the mame hlsl vs glsl :dunno Im just using the default hlsl and it looks good to me so probably wont mess around with it untill my drive is done and am really bored.
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I've been following your build and it's turned out great. I was able to get a lot of answers to questions from reading through here and I really like how you came up with some alternate solutions to problems.
Quick question for you about the glass you ordered. After having it for a little while now are you happy with it? Would you go darker or thinner or what? Thanks in advance man.
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Well, I bit the bullet and donated to HB and Emumovies.
Ive got mame and sega genesis completely setup sofar with all vids and themes.
Your were right.... Blows my old drive away! :applaud:
Im still confused on the mame hlsl vs glsl :dunno Im just using the default hlsl and it looks good to me so probably wont mess around with it untill my drive is done and am really bored.
glsl is an OpenGL renderer and hlsl is directX. hlsl has been around longer and has more options.
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I've been following your build and it's turned out great. I was able to get a lot of answers to questions from reading through here and I really like how you came up with some alternate solutions to problems.
Quick question for you about the glass you ordered. After having it for a little while now are you happy with it? Would you go darker or thinner or what? Thanks in advance man.
Im happy with it. 3/16" is perfect thickness in my opinion.
I got the light gray.... It might be a hair too light but I think the dark gray would be too dark. Too bad they dont make a medium gray.
With the inside of the cab painted black... you dont see anything but the tv frame....this is in a lit room. In a dim room you dont see anything. When the tv is on it looks great.
I got the standard tempered glass. I didnt pay extra for the "no tong mark" option and I dont see any imperfections anywhere.
Also I skipped the edge grind to save some money.
Was only like $60-70 bucks shipped. Was packed great. Well worth it.
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Ok.... 5 year update...... Damn time flies :-\
About a year ago I started having issues with the computer in this cab locking up after I moved it on the porch for a couple weeks while we re-arranged the house.
I found out it had a critter living in it :banghead:
It was almost winter and cold on the porch, a dang mouse climbed in the cab through the vent holes and nestled nicely ontop of my video card where it relieved itself evidently :censored:
So.... I pulled the aging 2tb hyperspin emulator pc out and salvaged what I could, Cleaned the cab out, installed metal screen to the vents (should have done that to begin with) and here she sat in the corner of the living room collecting junk and being used by ol lady and kids as a freaking in-table drop point for junk to collect :angry:
But over the past couple years I was working hard compiling an 8tb Launchbox/Bigbox emulation computer for a dedicated CRT-emudriver project that turned out pretty cool...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dtEVnSJ0x2Q
So.... I made a copy of the drive....took a week to copy :o and been sitting on it with plans of some day putting it in the MortalKab. A while back I bought a 2080TI graphics card and so for christmas built my son a new PC and let him have my 1080ti..... So, now I have his old computer with a spare 1660ti graphics card that will be going into this arcade cab. Sadly my job closed its doors so have time to kill on the project once again.
Im thinking of giving it a makeover, was going to replace the vinyl but dont really want to spend that kind of money so thinking about new buttons and joysticks.
It has LED JLF's which are nice for fighting games but honestly I kind of miss the Happs bat style joysticks that I grew up with. I never remember a single arcade cab in the 90s having the balltop joysticks .... Not the games I played anyway...mostly fighting games- so I kind of regretted not going with the bat styled sticks.
Im also not fond of the multi-colored buttons. The ones I used kinda matched the color scheme and were in my budget at the time but id like something more uniform colored but translucent and could be rgb controlled.
So..... Ive been out of the arcade control scene for 5+ years now and wondered if anyone could recommend me any buttons that might match this cab and can be rgb controlled?
Also I dont know if anyone made any rgb translucent bat style sticks? The 4 player layout sounded cool but really wasnt utilized much except for the random TMNT, simpsons run throughs...and maybe bro force from time to time.... so thinking about the outer sticks being 4 way for the 80s games but still would like them to match the p1 and p2 8 way bat sticks if possible. Any suggestions for buttons and sticks are appreciated!
Also...will be using Launchbox/Bigbox this time which surely cant be as bad to setup as Hyperspin was??
Oh....heres an updated pic from about a year ago right before the computer took a crap...
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Ok.... I have alot of updates.... Jan 9th 2021 .... 5 years after completing this cab I decided to overhaul the entire cab .I rushed through the wiring in 2015 and cheaped out on controls and wanted to do it right this time.
I decided I wanted to rebuild the joysticks, and wanted full rgb buttons.
Once i jumped in I ended up basically replacing/ rebuilding the entire cab. 😣
And since my job closed its doors I have alot of free time so decided to tidy up some fine details.
So here is the beginning of the rebuild. The cab was in a sad sad state.
For the past year the pc was taken out due to a mouse getting in the cab and pissing on the gpu, the cab was shoved in a corner, and ol lady and kids used it as a end table to pile all there junk and drinks on 😡
It was time to send this to the landfill or completely rebuild.
Thinking of all the hard work,time, and money it took to build years ago I could not get rid of it.
The cab had 7 80mm vent holes at the top that i never got around to placing dust filter so the inside of the cab was horrible.
Thick layer of dust on everything. While dismanteling I noticed the side panels had split down the middle 😣 probably from rough handeling. I broke the entire cab down and injected industrial strength wood glue into the split...clamped it, sanded paint off a section where I epoxied and screwed horizontal reinforcement gussets to stabalize the sides from this happening again.
Also found out the u-trak makes a good spill catcher for kids drinks 😣
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TdrinksThe screen of the tv was horrible. Looked like 20 years of dust. Im going to have to seal this thing up good with filters when I rebuild.
I cut out all wiring. Scrubbed every inch of every panel inside and out. Completely dismantled the cab, control panel off, glass and tv out, just an empty shell.
Let it all dry out then performed surgery to repair the split in side panels.
While the cab was on its side for repair I ripped out the old blue led under lighting strip and laid a layer of reflective aluminum tape and installed a high powered rgb flood lamp.
WOW this thing obliterates the led strips!!! Its so bright It looks like a hollywood special effect portal opening up under my cab when testing 😯😛😯 I forgot to take a pic so will have to wait untill I get it up and running to show but its awesome.
Was so impressed I gave the $50 worth of led rgb strip lights I bought to put under and behind this cab to my kids and ended up placing a 2nd rgb flood light on rear of the cab. They are friggin sweet!
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After the repair was cured and every bit of the cab components were de dusted and scrubbed I started the task of relocating the cab upstairs to my bedroom. I thought it wouldnt be bad with the control panel off and glass and tv out. 😂😂😂😂
Boy was I wrong!
I couldnt get the cab around the bend of the stairs and after an hour of cussing I had to take the railing down and me and my son got it up the stairs rear of the cab going up first with about 1/2" of clearance on either side 😒
The first thing I did is started rewiring the entire cab.
Originally when I built the cab I cobbled the wire in there with any type of wire I had laying around, electrical tape everywhere that turned into sticky slime over the years, electrical twist connectors, bad splices of mismatched wires everywhere..... it was shameful lmao.
So the long task of wiring with some kind of order begun.
Still not super clean wiring but light years better than what it originally was.
I thought about dismantling again in the future and so decided to have a quick and easy way to sever all connections near the control panel for easier disassembly next time.
I used terminal blocks to power the marquee and coin doors, and another terminal block near the control panel to quicky disconnect the coin switches, power button near the panel and also in this area will be able to disconnect all 4 usb connections going to the control panel, so next time all these connections can be quickly undone and control panel be lifted away quickly.
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After a few questions to Andy, and a visit to Ultimark, Focus attack, ebay, and Amazon my pockets were about $600 lighter but had the stuff I needed ordered.
Ultimarc RGB goldleaf buttons, some black plungers for the 4 admin buttons, 2 pacLED64's, 2 5v 3a power adapters, 4 spare rgb leds for the joystick holes, a couple daisy chains, some disconnects, clear dustwashaers, white bat tops, some cherry switches, 6# springs, octagon gates, oversize actuators, diamond plate for a kickplate, pcb standoffs, cables, etc etc
After my wallet was nice and light I pulled the marquee out and installed a new brighter 12v white led strip. This time the strip went across the marquee backer 3 times instead of twice..... Much better.
Then I focussed on the allday task of disassembling the spaghetti bomb of wires and components that were spewed all over the underside of the control panel.
Once stripped down I plotted out where to dremel pockets for the joystick hole rgb led's.
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Took the panel and the dremel to the basement to make some dust. Cut out pockets for the joystick led's.
I then cleaned up the mess and painted the bare wood.
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Luckily my Ultimarc order got here super fast and started laying out the buttons and taming the rgb wiring. I decided to coil the excess rather than custom cut all the wires because I would of had to order all the disconnects.
This took me forever. Probably 3 days and changed my mind several times of how to map everything out.
I only have 2.5" of clearance under the panel in the front and about 3" in the rear so care had to be taken that everything clears.
Not 100% happy with it but better than last time and had alot of excess wire to herd into spots.
Joystick leds were glued in with e6000 and temporarily held in place with aluminum tape and shims to keep in place untill glue cured. I have some 28mm thinwall polycarbonate tubing im still waiting on. Going to cut 1/2" lengths to press into the joystick holes after sanding the inside to diffuse and transfer the light. The clear washers will go above letting light through.... Same as chance did on his flynn cab except im using a single rgb instead of x2 per joystick.
I didnt take any button unboxing pics. :embarassed: Just a balltop pic.....waited 2 weeks for those and the clear dust washers to arrive.
I then dismantled my 2 jlf sticks, and 2 seimitsu clone sticks. They got cleaned,greased, cherry switches, extended shafts, 6# springs, 1mm oversize actuators, the jlfs got octagon gates, and of course they all got batt tops.
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The U-trak was a mess! Took an entire evening to dismantle...soak, toothbrush scrub all the gunk out, scrub all the shafts and bearings, etc.
The u-trak rgb board was encrusted and the wires corroded off. Had to soak in 90% iso alcohol and scrub with toothbrush.
Had to sacrifice a spare rgb button for its wiring and connector. Soldered on the new pigtail and re-assembled the trackball.
Hey.... It rolls now ::)
Also after 5 years this cab finally got a kickplate :cheers:
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Finally get the control panel done which felt like it took forever. Ipac4 hooked up after tearing apart about 50ft of cat5 cables for the wiring. All power and usb cables ran. I did skimp and used premade daisy chain grounds..... I just wanted it done at that point. :dunno
Was a pain to keep everything able to clear a control box barely 2.5" deep. Next cable will be simpler, 2 player, and deeper to run IL/ happ sticks.
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Ordered a bunch of different sized pc fan dust filter plates and installed in all vent holes. Also installed a high pressure low rpm ventilation fan for the bottom of the cab where the pc resides.
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Today I reinstalled the control panel, ran my coin door signal wires, ran a socket for the vent fan' and buttoned up a few other loose ends.
Rebuilt is done!
Well... I have to replace a barrel lock on the keyboard tray door and reinstall it tomorrow but now the real nightmare begins..... Software 😣😒😡
Going with launchbox/bigbox this time so should be easier.
I have a 8tb drive i been compiling for years ready to go.
Problem is i configured it to run on a crt box tv and scraped that setup so need to reformat the pc then drop this extra gpu in it and then go through all the emulator cfg files and reset them to default and hope they play nice.
I see many weeks of emulator configs 😣
Thinking about ordering one of them arcade 1up mortal kombat barstools and also thinking about changing the marquee to a replica mk3 ultimate marquee.
Anxious to see this cab all lit up! :applaud:
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That is some insane wiring.
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That is some insane wiring.
It almost drove me insane :lol
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Spent an hour last night putting a better cpu cooler in this pc with plans to overclock this 3rd gen i5 then realized this didnt have the Z series overclockable motherboard in it that I put it in a different system I built a month or so back :banghead:
I didnt feel like rebuilding both systems and reinstalling windows just to be able to overclock so said screw it.
Got the pc done and added wires from the power switch pins on motherboard to connect to the hidden button on the cab that turns the cab on. I did end up installing a usb hub under my slide out keyboard tray but just to power mouse,keyboard, xbox controller wireless transmitter. Everything in the control panel will plug into pc directly.
I bunched the 4 control panel usb ends together at the back of the cab and used 4 short 2ft usb extensions to feed into cab bottom where pc is. This way the control panel and everything connected to it can be unplugged at the top rear section of the cab so the panel can be easily removed next time I move it.
Pc is in and powered up....updating windows now then comes the software journey :embarassed:
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Im 100% sold on the led floodlights! They are soooo much brighter than strip lights and they have all the modes and can be custom programmed and they actually save what state they were in for next time they are powered on.
Such a clean,vivid, pure color.....the pics dont capture how good they look!
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Well .... Looks like the samsung led tv in this took a crap. Red led comes on but no image on the screen, connected hdmi to a spare monitor and its outputting fine.
:banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
Probably just order a 32" monitor friday
So that sucks
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So..... I ordered a 32" LG ips 1440p monitor last night.
Wanna hear something funny?
The tv works. :dunno
I guess while it was windows updating it lost signal and shut itself off.
I tried the power button and also this new remote I bought on ebay for it.
Turns out the remote doesnt work at all so a bad remote cost me $300 because you wanna hear something else funny??
Amazon says its too late to cancel order.
All i can do is laugh or id loose it.
Oh well maybe ill make a 32" virtual pinball with the old one.
Anyway..... All rgbs are working :applaud:
Now just to figure out this ledblinky
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I’m sure you will find a use for the 32” TV... the LEDs are really bright - so now you are programming them to only light up for specific controls?
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Ill have to configure all the different lighting effect scripts for different situations.
You can make custom lighting animations that happen when the cab is powered on, then you can have it do something else when it loads into your frontend, cycling through systems or categories, when selecting a game, etc.....
Ledblinky has an included config file for alot of mame games that once you load the game ledblinky will only light up the buttons used for that game and it will light them in the colors they were on the actual arcade cab.
Alot to figure out since ive never messed with it before.
Right now im trying to get my 8tb launchbox drive to play nice since i had it configured to push 240p with super resolutions through a transcoder to a crt.
Im finding more and more config files and folders that i edited and teying to remember what i changed.
Im now searching the net for posts i made on forums to remember what the hell i did :laugh2: :banghead:
Once i get majority of launchbox and emulators working correctly again then i need to start messing with ledblinky and map out my control panel and start configuring custom animations
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Polycarb tubing FINALLY showed up. 1 1/8" OD. X. 1/16" wall thickness .... My holes were cut with a 28mm bit but couldnt find metric sized tubing so was worried it would be a hair too large....Perfect fit! Time to cut some tubing.
I hope a single led will be enough with sanded/difussed inner section.
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tubes should be good, I'd scuff them up with some corse sand paper so you can't see though them and they catch more light. Are you just gonna set the cuts of tube in there resting under he dust washers? or hold them in with some sort of adhesive?
They are a snug press fit. I just tested one and im going to have to paint the inside of the bore white. Since its black its making white look purple and the colors are off.
But I got a bigger worry than that now.
My first led64 board is acting crazy.
I had both set to id1 and id2 in the ultimarc software.....
Mapped out my ledblinky input map
Was playing with animations last night and everything was fine.
Then i decided to try to make a custom script in the pacled64 program since that is what handles the led's untill the front end loads up and i wanted them all to just come on and fade to white.
The pacled64 program is about as unintuitive as it gets and the guide is vague.
Couldnt figure it out so restored factory script back on both of them but now they dont even come on when the pc is turned on.
In ledblinky the 2nd led64 acts fine but the first one goes crazy flickering randomly.
Ugggg
EDIT......... Neverming.....when i restored the led boards it unassigned their ID's
Thats fixed. Now i have to figure out if i can wrap part of the outer tube with some white vinyl or paint the bores.
I think either way is going to make a tight press fit for the tubes even worse
Heres a partial test fit. Looks bad. I should of went with acrylic i think it transfers more light and might not of gave an off color
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I ended up sticking all kinds of white material in there to see what looked best.
Opaque plastic, white vinyl, even some white velcro which looked cool but didnt have but one small piece.
I ended up hitting the inside of the polycarb tubes with a light coat of flat white and left a window for the led to shrine through and i think it will be best bet to match my buttons.
Note... They are still not pushed down all the way yet... This was just for testing
In the pics- left side is just scuffed inside of tube and right side is after painting white.
A little dimmer but much cleaner color I think
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Did some vinyl cutting
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Just waiting on the new 1440p monitor so I can put the tinted glass back in.
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Did some vinyl cutting
That's pretty sick man. Nice work!
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Did some vinyl cutting
That's pretty sick man. Nice work!
Thanks.... I got some laser etched ones coming
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Screwed up the firmware somehow in one of the led64s trying to write a custom animation script for it for when the pc is first powered on untill ledblinky kicks in.
Heres a pic of me testing it on my other pc. Had to reflash factory firmware on it.
They are working fine now and leaving them alone.
Ive been moving my launchbox drive over to a build on a ssd so it will load much faster and ledblinky will take over much quicker.
Wrote some pretty long animation scripts in ledblinky and have them plugged into launchbox/bigbox and working/looking good.
Ill post a video soon but still working on my launchbox build. Just imported 26 systems in past few days. Got a few more to go, then still need to import arcade and windows game files.
Alot of good emulation options since I last setup a drive. Really liking swanstation and redream emulators.
And retroarch has so many good working cores now I think I imported over 20 systems before needing a standalone emulator and that was mame to run cd-i. Mame and redream are only standalones ive needed for consoles but have yet to import ps2 and ps3
Ohhhh!........ I got my 1440p ips LG monitor and it blows the tv i had in here away!
Whats most amazing is input lag. I notice hardly any at all! I dont know what theresponse time is on this display but ive never played emulation where there was no lag like this.....and dont need to use run ahead in retroarch at all! Totally worth it just for that alone but the image blows the old samsung tv away too and the crt shader im using in mame with brightness all the way up looks great!
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I just made an account on this website just to make the comment...
Outstanding work!!!!! Alot of time, effort, trial/error and money went into your build. I am in love with it.
There is 10 pages of data, I was wonder if have you compiled everything into a parts list, dimensions etc?
I just recently mod'ed an arcade1up for a friend that he had got. It was a Golden Tee unit. Moded it with joysticks and buttons, put a RPI4 in it.
First time involved in this type of project and was in love with it.
The end result was great... Almost 40, it brought me back to my childhood of going to the local arcade center.
I want to build something for myself now but i don't want to have to buy a junk arcade1up kit from walmart, build it then mod it. I do have an advantage in my goals though, I have a 2d c02 lasercutting machine with a 48"x48" bed at my disposal that I could use to cut various parts.
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Looks great man! Question for you.... you like that CP layout? About ready to start mine and think that's the style I want to go with. If you were building again, would you go the same route?
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Honestly if I were to do it over, I would stick with same panel design but would drop players 3 and 4 and instead add a third dedicated 4 way stick and a couple buttons off to the left that were just piggyback connected to player one joystick for all the older 4 way games.
4 players Is cool but honestly over the past 5-6 years those player 3 and 4 controls have seen maybe 2 hours of use total.
Theres only so many 4 player games and once you run through it once friends,kids,etc usually had enough.
The 7 button layout for players 1 and 2 have been fine. At times I tried to map controls for later gen systems and kinda wished I put an 8th button but then once you try playing these games on arcade controls you tend to switch to controllers for those systems anyways.
Ive thought about adding plunger buttons to the sides for pinball games but figure if I get that involved with pinball games then ill just build a virtual pinball machine.
So.... Yeah really I would of just went with 2 players with a 3rd 4way stick..... But on your first cab its hard to fight the urge to add everything possible, im guilty of this when others told me same thing lol.
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Do you have the dimensions for the control panel ?
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(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210321/5af3f20cb0e3b3a89524a6a26694a3c8.jpg)
Just funnin’ ya. Search for “Jarret Space Paranoids”. Read all the warnings about the panel as well.
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What do you recommend for a 4 player control panel then ?
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Look at the Konami 4 player panel (TMNT, Simpsons, etc). Tried and true.
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Is it the actually shape of the panel or the layout of all the buttons or both that you choose this style for a 4 player panel ?
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Is it the actually shape of the panel or the layout of all the buttons or both that you choose this style for a 4 player panel ?
Both. It’s an actual design used in actual arcades on actual machines by actual people who put real money into these machines.
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Look at the Konami 4 player panel (TMNT, Simpsons, etc). Tried and true.
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So a rectangle with a couple buttons? ;D
If someone is restoring an original cab then Im all about keeping things pure and original. Thats not what this build thread is about. If someone wanted a konami style cab then they could just buy a konami style cab.
Not sure why your discouraging people to be different and build what they want when your signature says "build what you dig"
No actual arcade cabinets were harmed in the production of this product :lol
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Not sure why your discouraging people to be different and build what they want when your signature says "build what you dig"
Somebody asked him what he would recommend.
That is what he did.
Not complicated.
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Not sure why your discouraging people to be different and build what they want when your signature says "build what you dig"
Somebody asked him what he would recommend.
That is what he did.
Not complicated.
Exactly. I really don’t care what he builds. But he asked me why. So I told him why.
I’d rather people build stuff that is sound from an arcade gameplay principle rather than what will get the Bros excited for 5 minutes in the gameroom before they get bored and move on.
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We all know mr yotsua is the forum purist. :lol
Just giving a little sheet back. Its all in good fun.
Didnt mean to come off harsh.
It just felt like an attack against my control panel decision, and discouraging for others who want something not so traditional when its worked perfectly fine for me and many others.
This was the design that actually made me commit and want to build my first cab.
If when I asked about it getting into this hobby and had recieved responses that made me feel it was a bad layout or design I probably would of never jumped in this hobby and then would of never developed my interests into arcade cabs, crt's and original hardware console restorations.
I completely agree peoples opinions are a granted right and welcomed but when you go to a thread that is based on a nontraditional design just to compare it with an overly complicated battleship print...... Im just stating my opinion that I think its discouraging to people who may come here thinking "this is the design I want" and would of commited but then be told its a bad design and never get into this hobby.
Theres been dozens of people get into this hobby based off this design that ive sent to Chance for plans and now im offering the control panel template to people to not burden chance so much. Ive been trying to get younger generations interested in this hobby on reddit and other platforms and sending them to this thread and chances thread and to come here to just smear mud on the design is counter productive in my opinion.
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We all know mr yotsua is the forum purist. :lol
Just giving a little sheet back. Its all in good fun.
Didnt mean to come off harsh.
It just felt like an attack against my control panel decision, and discouraging for others who want something not so traditional when its worked perfectly fine for me and many others.
This was the design that actually made me commit and want to build my first cab.
If when I asked about it getting into this hobby and had recieved responses that made me feel it was a bad layout or design I probably would of never jumped in this hobby and then would of never developed my interests into arcade cabs, crt's and original hardware console restorations.
I completely agree peoples opinions are a granted right and welcomed but when you go to a thread that is based on a nontraditional design just to compare it with an overly complicated battleship print...... Im just stating my opinion that I think its discouraging to people who may come here thinking "this is the design I want" and would of commited but then be told its a bad design and never get into this hobby.
Theres been dozens of people get into this hobby based off this design that ive sent to Chance for plans and now im offering the control panel template to people to not burden chance so much. Ive been trying to get younger generations interested in this hobby on reddit and other platforms and sending them to this thread and chances thread and to come here to just smear mud on the design is counter productive in my opinion.
Well put, but if I think this is a bad design, should I not say so? Should I stay quiet if I think ergonomics and gameplay can be compromised by the joystick and person placement in this design? And does my silence let this poor design get perpetuated? See, that’s my dilemma.
Normally, I don’t say anything, but this guy has been asking for plans in 4 or 5 different threads.
To be honest, I’ve never even looked at this thread, so my comments to this gentleman isn’t a knock against your cab. It’s more trying to open a new member’s eyes to different four player options. People see a picture of Flynn’s Arcade and think that’s what they want and don’t take other things into consideration when looking at 4 player control panels. Hell, you yourself even admitted you would drop players 3&4 (and I commend you for your honesty). My comments I really meant to say, “Slow down and think about it before you commit.”
:cheers:
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I can't believe people jump in and try for this style cab on their first go. It's incredibly complex under the hood.
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We all know mr yotsua is the forum purist. :lol
Just giving a little sheet back. Its all in good fun.
Didnt mean to come off harsh.
It just felt like an attack against my control panel decision, and discouraging for others who want something not so traditional when its worked perfectly fine for me and many others.
This was the design that actually made me commit and want to build my first cab.
If when I asked about it getting into this hobby and had recieved responses that made me feel it was a bad layout or design I probably would of never jumped in this hobby and then would of never developed my interests into arcade cabs, crt's and original hardware console restorations.
I completely agree peoples opinions are a granted right and welcomed but when you go to a thread that is based on a nontraditional design just to compare it with an overly complicated battleship print...... Im just stating my opinion that I think its discouraging to people who may come here thinking "this is the design I want" and would of commited but then be told its a bad design and never get into this hobby.
Theres been dozens of people get into this hobby based off this design that ive sent to Chance for plans and now im offering the control panel template to people to not burden chance so much. Ive been trying to get younger generations interested in this hobby on reddit and other platforms and sending them to this thread and chances thread and to come here to just smear mud on the design is counter productive in my opinion.
Well put, but if I think this is a bad design, should I not say so? Should I stay quiet if I think ergonomics and gameplay can be compromised by the joystick and person placement in this design? And does my silence let this poor design get perpetuated? See, that’s my dilemma.
Normally, I don’t say anything, but this guy has been asking for plans in 4 or 5 different threads.
To be honest, I’ve never even looked at this thread, so my comments to this gentleman isn’t a knock against your cab. It’s more trying to open a new member’s eyes to different four player options. People see a picture of Flynn’s Arcade and think that’s what they want and don’t take other things into consideration when looking at 4 player control panels. Hell, you yourself even admitted you would drop players 3&4 (and I commend you for your honesty). My comments I really meant to say, “Slow down and think about it before you commit.”
:cheers:
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Honestly.... Ive had 4 players on my original vendetta cab and then on this cab and there was no difference in the crampness feeling of 4 people huddled infront of either one.
I would change to 2 player with a 3rd piggybacked 4way stick but just for the simple fact of not playing with 4 people often, it has nothing to do with feeling cramped or bad placement.
When my kids were younger we used 3 and 4 players quite a bit but now they are teenagers and cant be bothered and I dont have many people over ever so for me personally as the only one who uses the cab I would drop players 3 and 4 for those reasons. If someone is making a mancave/ bar build and will have buddies over often then 4 players would be perfectly fine with this design. If it were bad i would be honest about it.
You recommend the konami layout over this layout which ive literally played both side by side and can say honestly from experience there was no difference in crampness feeling. Sure you probably have way more experience than me with original cabs but youve probably never used a cab with this layout and so are just telling people its bad without experience with it. Your standing shoulder to shoulder on both designs neither felt any different.
Here you can see the konami cab incase you question my honesty.
https://youtu.be/OIycdNuUx-c
You have been on this thread before. Back in 2015 when I originally built this cab. You were very openly critical then too but i was new and took some of your recommendations to heart and actually changed my whole artwork design from scratch starting over which you still kinda shunned.
Its ok.... Your highly opinionated and vocal about it.... I accept that and have buddies like that so know you dont mean any harm and just trying to help, sometimes keeping quiet dont hurt either though like if someone shows a pic of there kid and you think its ugly.... Do you tell them that?Lol
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We all know mr yotsua is the forum purist. :lol
Just giving a little sheet back. Its all in good fun.
Didnt mean to come off harsh.
It just felt like an attack against my control panel decision, and discouraging for others who want something not so traditional when its worked perfectly fine for me and many others.
This was the design that actually made me commit and want to build my first cab.
If when I asked about it getting into this hobby and had recieved responses that made me feel it was a bad layout or design I probably would of never jumped in this hobby and then would of never developed my interests into arcade cabs, crt's and original hardware console restorations.
I completely agree peoples opinions are a granted right and welcomed but when you go to a thread that is based on a nontraditional design just to compare it with an overly complicated battleship print...... Im just stating my opinion that I think its discouraging to people who may come here thinking "this is the design I want" and would of commited but then be told its a bad design and never get into this hobby.
Theres been dozens of people get into this hobby based off this design that ive sent to Chance for plans and now im offering the control panel template to people to not burden chance so much. Ive been trying to get younger generations interested in this hobby on reddit and other platforms and sending them to this thread and chances thread and to come here to just smear mud on the design is counter productive in my opinion.
Well put, but if I think this is a bad design, should I not say so? Should I stay quiet if I think ergonomics and gameplay can be compromised by the joystick and person placement in this design? And does my silence let this poor design get perpetuated? See, that’s my dilemma.
Normally, I don’t say anything, but this guy has been asking for plans in 4 or 5 different threads.
To be honest, I’ve never even looked at this thread, so my comments to this gentleman isn’t a knock against your cab. It’s more trying to open a new member’s eyes to different four player options. People see a picture of Flynn’s Arcade and think that’s what they want and don’t take other things into consideration when looking at 4 player control panels. Hell, you yourself even admitted you would drop players 3&4 (and I commend you for your honesty). My comments I really meant to say, “Slow down and think about it before you commit.”
:cheers:
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Honestly.... Ive had 4 players on my original vendetta cab and then on this cab and there was no difference in the crampness feeling of 4 people huddled infront of either one.
I would change to 2 player with a 3rd piggybacked 4way stick but just for the simple fact of not playing with 4 people often, it has nothing to do with feeling cramped or bad placement.
When my kids were younger we used 3 and 4 players quite a bit but now they are teenagers and cant be bothered and I dont have many people over ever so for me personally as the only one who uses the cab I would drop players 3 and 4 for those reasons. If someone is making a mancave/ bar build and will have buddies over often then 4 players would be perfectly fine with this design. If it were bad i would be honest about it.
You recommend the konami layout over this layout which ive literally played both side by side and can say honestly from experience there was no difference in crampness feeling. Sure you probably have way more experience than me with original cabs but youve probably never used a cab with this layout and so are just telling people its bad without experience with it. Your standing shoulder to shoulder on both designs neither felt any different.
Here you can see the konami cab incase you question my honesty.
https://youtu.be/OIycdNuUx-c
You have been on this thread before. Back in 2015 when I originally built this cab. You were very openly critical then too but i was new and took some of your recommendations to heart and actually changed my whole artwork design from scratch starting over which you still kinda shunned.
Its ok.... Your highly opinionated and vocal about it.... I accept that and have buddies like that so know you dont mean any harm and just trying to help, sometimes keeping quiet dont hurt either though like if someone shows a pic of there kid and you think its ugly.... Do you tell them that?Lole
I had to go back and look, I guess you’re right. I guess I just don’t remember reading this thread (it was almost 6 years ago). Again, the only reason I commented on it was because the guy has been posting in four - five different threads looking for plans.
It depends, is my friend asking me if I think his kid is ugly? Or is he just showing me a picture? :)
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I can't believe people jump in and try for this style cab on their first go. It's incredibly complex under the hood.
It really wasnt bad. I just used basic power tools most people have.
It takes alot of evenings and weekends but i find the software setup more frustrating than the woodwork or wiring.
Launchbox makes it pretty easy these days. Still a task with 30+ systems though.
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It depends, is my friend asking me if I think his kid is ugly? Or is he just showing me a picture? :)
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I give up you win! lmao :laugh2:
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[quote author=yotsuya link=topic=146268.msg1736672#msg1736672 date=1616452824
It depends, is my friend asking me if I think his kid is ugly? Or is he just showing me a picture? :)
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I give up you win! lmao :laugh2:
[/quote]
Heh. It’s all good brother. I actually had fun going back right now and reading the comments that I made on your build. “‘Mud flap art?” Lol.
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Yeah... You were (are) quite the character lol
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I was only posting on different threads to get different ideas an opinions on what I should do, it seems alot not all but alot on this site just want to be negative all the time instead of being encouraging . I loved gauntlet so thats why I was looking at a 4 player and thought it would be fun when people are over to have a game or two.
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I was only posting on different threads to get different ideas an opinions on what I should do, it seems alot not all but alot on this site just want to be negative all the time instead of being encouraging . I loved gauntlet so thats why I was looking at a 4 player and thought it would be fun when people are over to have a game or two.
People are trying to help. Honestly. They may also come off abrasive but really they are just getting directly to the point and not sugar-coating stuff. Do you want to learn from the experience of others or do you just want people to be excited about your idea? We were all beginners at one point and literally every first-timer wants a 4 player cabinet with blinking lights that plays everything ever. But for 95% of people it's not a good fit. So when a new member posts about the 4P build he is dying to make a lot of people here will ask question to try and get that person to really think about whether they need a 4P cabinet.
Also think about whether you need to be able to play console games - in the 15+ years I've had cabinets in my house no one but me has ever played a console game even though they could. 99.9% of the time people want to play 80s 3:4 arcade classics - Pac-Man, Frogger, Mr. Do!, Galaga, etc. Console games work great on a TV from the couch but not so much standing at a cabinet. YMMV.
Right away, I can tell from your post that 99% of the time P3 and P4 will never be used because you are thinking about building an entire cabinet for the fringe case of "when people are over" and everyone wants to play together. Build something that will get used by you and the people you live with and plug in USB controllers if you have 4 people over instead of spending $1,000 building an aircraft carrier control panel.
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People just need to put their big boy or girl pants on when they ask for opinions.
If people don't like your idea you can either take their advice or leave it.
Offering a better alternative based on decades of use in arcades is not negative.
The aircraft carrier CP design is a bad design. The Konami 4 player design is a time tested success.
I don't know when it happened, but apparently when someone says "what do you think?", it really means "Please fellate me."
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I'm different I never wanted a 4-player cab. Guess cause I knew my 3 friends would never all come over at the same time...lol. I had never seen this thread before now. Gotta say the Mortal Kombat cab looks nicer than Chance's build. :)
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I have a 4 player cab and it gets played by 3 or 4 people all of the time.
It is a kid magnet. It allows my adult guests to play the other games in my arcade room undisturbed.
If you have any doubts that you will need 4 players than it is probably best to stick with 2 players.
My experience is not the norm. I have about twenty arcade machines.
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I'm even to the point where I don't think I'll build anything for 2 players again. The problem is 98% of the time its just me and I don't like feeling like I'm standing off to the side instead of centered.
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Its not about liking my idea as Ive not asked for opinions on my idea as Ive not even drawn anything out or planned anything yet, I was simply trying to get plans and schematics on how to build a 4 player cabinet that was not the size of a small car so I could play Gauntlet on it.
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Come on man. At least be honest.
What do you recommend for a 4 player control panel then ?
Is it the actually shape of the panel or the layout of all the buttons or both that you choose this style for a 4 player panel ?
You did ask for opinions.
You could start here for Gauntlet. The plans are not verified, but I am sure they are close enough that you can use them.
https://www.classicarcadecabinets.com/gauntlet.html
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What do you recommend for a 4 player control panel then ? Thats not asking for an opinion on my idea to be fair,thats me asking an opinion on what people recommend for a 4 payer control panel.
Cheers Mike appreciate the plans for the original gauntlet game but from memory that was a big beast of a cabinet and I was hoping to slim it down.
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What do you recommend for a 4 player control panel then ? Thats not asking for an opinion on my idea to be fair,thats me asking an opinion on what people recommend for a 4 payer control panel.
Cheers Mike appreciate the plans for the original gauntlet game but from memory that was a big beast of a cabinet and I was hoping to slim it down.
Pazza, start a new thread so we stop clogging up Deeznut’s. We’ll talk you through it. :cheers:
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Yeah I think a new thread would be a good idea...thanks.
And just to clear up alot of false opinions based off no experience with this design..... And that "bad design" slander based off bad assumptions.....
Here we have a "to scale" overlay of a konami 4 player panel at 36.875" width , and the "bad design battleship" panel at 46.5" width
Please tell me how my cab is so crammed and not conducive for 4 player play???
It clearly has more room, MUCH more room, but like I said... Owning BOTH a konami 4 player cab and the "bad design battleship" I can tell you the 4 player experience is the same..... 4 people are crammed shoulder to shoulder infront of a small wooden box, there is actually more hand and elbow room on the bad battleship design but for all fairness I rate it a similar cramped experience.
Some of you guys might have a house full of machines but if you dont have anything like this for reference you assume its a standard 36" width and totally cramped which it is not so please quit labeling a bad design like its a proven fact..... Its a bad design based off of your assumption that is based off no experience with the design.
Ive had 4 adults on barstools infront of this before.
As for advice for Pazza...... I agree with you guys, If its being built strictly for the love of Gauntlet (ive had 4 people play dark legacy just fine on this btw) then maybe a more traditional cab would suit you, why not build a slim gauntlet themed cab that could also run other mame games?
But if you absolutely love this design and have the skills/patience/resources to tackle the task- I wont BS you and tell you its a bad design because its not, and although I might not have a basement full of 20 OG cabs I have both designs in question and theres nothing wrong with this layout for 4 players.
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That is the problem. Your cab is 4 freaking feet wide. It is needlessly massive. P3 and P4 aren't even in front of the screen. They are down the hall.
Ive had 4 adults on barstools infront of this before.
This is the other problem. It is a ---smurfing--- arcade machine. Stand up.
And it is an aircraft carrier, not a battleship. A battleship is too small to land fighter jets on.
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That is the problem. Your cab is 4 freaking feet wide. It is needlessly massive. P3 and P4 aren't even in front of the screen. They are down the hall.
Ive had 4 adults on barstools infront of this before.
This is the other problem. It is a ---smurfing--- arcade machine. Stand up.
And it is an aircraft carrier, not a battleship. A battleship is too small to land fighter jets on.
Here goes more assumptions, This cab takes up a tiny footprint compared to my Vendetta cab. Tiny! Not even in the ballpark of the vendetta behemoth. Two different worlds. I brought this cab upstairs by myself with just my 12 year old guiding it. Its light weight, its modular, its easily moved without a crane. The only wide part is an extra 5 inch of control box overhang on each side..... Its nothing, It nestles in the corner without taking up half the room.
I dont get some of you guys. Anything other than a 40 year old giant monolith is crapped on. For some people - a one size fits all, multiplayer,multiplatform, multi-emulation, slim, small footprint machine is all thats needed. Not everyone has the space for 20 giant arcade cabs, I wish I did and I envy the people that do! But this thread isnt about that and I wouldnt come to your thread that is about that and say its wrong if I didnt have any experience with it.
Honestly, I made this build thread to show other average joes that their dream of owning an arcade cab can be achieved with everyday tools we already have and that a nice looking functional cab could be accomplished and trying to give people the confidence to go into a build and using this thread as a landing page for their questions.....
And then comes all this slander that its a bad, non-functional design based off nothing but assumptions.
No wonder the participation of members here dwindles
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Put your glasses on and read what I wrote please. Talk about making assumptions. ::)
I never said it takes up too much space. P3 and P4 are not in front of the screen. They are off to the side of it. That is too big. I don't care what its footprint is.
I have played games on that design. You assume I have not. For a guy who hates assumptions, you make a lot of them.
And then comes all this slander that its a bad, non-functional design based off nothing but assumptions.
No wonder the participation of members here dwindles
Slander? Hyperbolize much?
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For the record, you can’t slander an item, you can only slander a person.
I’m glad the design works for you and you’re happy with it and all the other stuff. But again, somebody asked for opinions on four player designs. I’m not not gonna be honest with them.
I will apologize for these comments getting dumped in your thread, that’s why I encouraged him to make his own. You probably should ask the Scottbot to clean this up.
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That is the problem. Your cab is 4 freaking feet wide. It is needlessly massive. P3 and P4 aren't even in front of the screen. They are down the hall.
Ive had 4 adults on barstools infront of this before.
This is the other problem. It is a ---smurfing--- arcade machine. Stand up.
And it is an aircraft carrier, not a battleship. A battleship is too small to land fighter jets on.
Good one OG arcade master god
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Put your glasses on and read what I wrote please. Talk about making assumptions. ::)
I never said it takes up too much space. P3 and P4 are not in front of the screen. They are off to the side of it. That is too big. I don't care what its footprint is.
I have played games on that design. You assume I have not. For a guy who hates assumptions, you make a lot of them.
And then comes all this slander that its a bad, non-functional design based off nothing but assumptions.
No wonder the participation of members here dwindles
Slander? Hyperbolize much?
I have a konami 4 player cab with pics of it as proof, played both side by side....similar experience. I never said this is the end all be all of arcade cabs, theres compromises to everything.
No... I dont think you played on this design maybe something similar, I took the original layout and moved things...... doesnt matter. You have your opinions, I have mine but the difference is im not in any of your build threads saying your design is wrong based off assumptions I have no experiences with or trying to interject my biased opinions even though theres people out there looking for a one size fits most non traditional build layout that this would work for but you want to smear crap on because its not your cup of tea.
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I don't think you know what the word "assumptions" means, or "slander" for that matter.
Feel free to keep commenting though.
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Hey thanks I will considering its my thread. Thanks for your permission and approval.
Its my assumption your a purist troll.
Grammar lessons and arcade purity regulator...... your an asset to the community!
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I know you’re being facetious, but Mike is an asset to the community.
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I know you’re being facetious, but Mike is an asset to the community.
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Im sure he is- and im not trying to take anything away from that, I just think some people are too set in their beliefs of whats right and whats wrong.
This is all a journey and if a 4 player multicade/multiplatform setup with bells, lights, and whistles is what draws them in then let it be what draws people in.
It drew me in.... I started with emulation on modern lcd panels. That moved into collecting mini console systems.... then I built this cab, that evolved into getting CRT's and learning what made that technology tick. That led me to collecting ORIGINAL hardware and now I have a soldering lab in the basement and replacing capacitors / refurbishing original console hardware. My next goal is recapping CRT boards and calibrating them.
Hopefully I'll get good enough to help local hobbyists with their CRT/PVM/BVM recapping and callibrations and offer restorations for old consoles in a dying hardware tech hobby.
So by starting with what some would consider wrong- I went down a path where I developed a understanding and appreciation of the original technology and preserving it.
I understand the gesture.... we want to preserve this history.... People see these non traditional builds as breaking from tradition and losing that history. But if a bunch of people would of jumped onboard to discourage me from building in the first place (regardless of design) I would of never went down the path of wanting to restore some of this old tech.
I just dont see the positives of discouraging people. Most people who want to build have an idea already whether they want a traditional design or a nontraditional design. If someone is unsure like the poster in this thread..... theres no harm in giving opinions, but I feel its messy to do it on someones build thread and blatantly call their design bad based on opinion. It might be a horrible design to some.... it might be the greatest thing to others..... but to label it a "bad design" like its fact for everyone is disingenuous.
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Hey Deez, really love your cab!! I hope to one day own one just like it. I've been browsing these arcade forums for what feels like close to 10 years now and I just never seem to have the time to pull the trigger on building one. I'm a huge fan of the "air craft carrier" design and totally support your decision to have built it. I grew up playing NBA Jam, The Simpsons, X-Men...all those 4 player cabs. Those are my fondest memories of playing as a kid, and while those control panels worked great when I was 10 years old, as an adult, I feel like I'd like something a little larger to play on with my kids and their cousins. Don't let these other guys tear you down. I've noticed over the years a lot of the same names love to visit these threads and shyt on anyone's design that doesn't meet their standards. They really have a lot wisdom on the topic, but their approach at criticism can at times be harsh. Anyways, great work on your cabinet and all the best to you!
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Yeah I think these control panels are great. When you die they can double as a coffin...
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Hey Deez, really love your cab!! I hope to one day own one just like it. I've been browsing these arcade forums for what feels like close to 10 years now and I just never seem to have the time to pull the trigger on building one. I'm a huge fan of the "air craft carrier" design and totally support your decision to have built it. I grew up playing NBA Jam, The Simpsons, X-Men...all those 4 player cabs. Those are my fondest memories of playing as a kid, and while those control panels worked great when I was 10 years old, as an adult, I feel like I'd like something a little larger to play on with my kids and their cousins. Don't let these other guys tear you down. I've noticed over the years a lot of the same names love to visit these threads and shyt on anyone's design that doesn't meet their standards. They really have a lot wisdom on the topic, but their approach at criticism can at times be harsh. Anyways, great work on your cabinet and all the best to you!
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Thanks... I really appreciate it!
Yeah.... these guys are a wealth of knowledge and I know they are trying to help but I just feel they hate to see anything non conforming with tradition. I understand this mindframe but also understand what drew me and many others in... and that was a non-traditional design. I dont think they realize non-traditional can still bring benefits to this community which I hope my previous message explains.
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Yeah I think these control panels are great. When you die they can double as a coffin...
Great idea! :lol
Im off to buy batting and crushed velvet now
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So I just noticed all the craziness going on in Chances thread and understand now why Im catching all this flak.
I just want to verify that
I built my cab with rough dimensions and an outline of the control panel template where I moved things around and changed the angle of the control panel box and side panels to suit my needs.
I have nothing to do with the plans or selling of plans and Im upset as well because ive sent people to Chance under good faith that he was giving them to people for free.
Is it true he was charging for them? I just contacted a guy ive been helping on reddit who I sent to chance for plans a few weeks ago to see if he was charged.
I would never sell someone elses designs and have no monetary motives here.
I understand that if this is true that it is troubling but ive done nothing but try to help people with their builds and questions and I find it troubling if Im catching all the flak now just because this is the build design I chose to go with almost 6 years ago.
Again.... Ive used this design side by side with my konami 4 player vendetta cab and found no difference in playing experience besides the crt being a crt in the konami cab obviously so it adds to the authentic experience but honestly the layout and feel of this layout is fine and I hate to think anything related to this design will be discouraged because someone was charging for the plans.
I , nor this design were guilty of this and as always Ill help anyone with questions on their build where I can.
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Wow..... I feel like a useful idiot.
For almost 6 years ive been sending people to chance for what I thought were free plans to guys looking to build one of these cabs.
I have confirmed with someone ive been helping on reddit that he did charge him $60 for the plans.
And from what ive been told its just the side panel and control panel templates which I could of shared with them myself for free. Ive sent dozens of people to him for plans and with all the traffic he must of got greedy and decided to monetize on it.
I could see if it was his design from scratch and putting together all the templates and cad files and writing up a pdf guide and selling on ebay..... But not charging for a layout someone else designed and slapping a simple side panel dimension file with it and calling it my own.
The member I talked to says hes not upset and it saved him time but im upset that ive been sending him traffic for years for him to profit on and never telling me anything about his idea to charge.
I apologize to anyone I referred to him thinking they were getting free plans, I had no clue untill now that he was charging people. Here I was posting my build on youtube and reddit subs and sending them to him thinking I was helping people out with there first build and the whole time I was advertising for someone to take advantage of the situation and profit.
Ill freely share my modified versions of the files.
Can anyone reccomend a free file hosting site that wont take the files down and can handle large files?
They are too big for me to post here.
Maybe google drive? Ive never used it.... Will have to look into it
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Wow. $60 for real? That’s so much for 2 templates and also I think taking advantage of people new to the hobby. There are a ton of free designs out there and all you really have to adjust is the width to accommodate the monitor. I could see it maybe if these were full CAD drawings that you could bring somewhere to have cut on a CNC and it would snap together like IKEA furniture...
I’m not going to knock someone for trying to make some money but it seems dishonest to advertise here and not let people know.
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yep... $60, I think It might of been cad files for the control panel top and the side panels because the guy Ive been talking to had these parts cut at a cnc shop but he has to figure out all the middle sections on his own.
Here we go everybody, save $60 :lol
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Wow. $60 for real? That’s so much for 2 templates and also I think taking advantage of people new to the hobby. There are a ton of free designs out there and all you really have to adjust is the width to accommodate the monitor. I could see it maybe if these were full CAD drawings that you could bring somewhere to have cut on a CNC and it would snap together like IKEA furniture...
I’m not going to knock someone for trying to make some money but it seems dishonest to advertise here and not let people know.
The guy who created his CAD files did not know they were going to be sold down the line. He’s not happy about that.
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Wow. $60 for real? That’s so much for 2 templates and also I think taking advantage of people new to the hobby. There are a ton of free designs out there and all you really have to adjust is the width to accommodate the monitor. I could see it maybe if these were full CAD drawings that you could bring somewhere to have cut on a CNC and it would snap together like IKEA furniture...
I’m not going to knock someone for trying to make some money but it seems dishonest to advertise here and not let people know.
The guy who created his CAD files did not know they were going to be sold down the line. He’s not happy about that.
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Wow... so he didnt even create the cad files? smh
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It is a scab move, I will give it that...But in the big scope of things does it really matter?, Free, is it really Free, I done 10.00 scans that add up fast, But, consider it what is if you need it...And 60.00 templates, is observed as perverted?...Omg, my latest project just hit eleven hundred dollars in materials and prints for the 4 main templates, Aparently we are not even playing the same sport.
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No I think it was more the taking of someone else's work and then secretly selling it via private messages for $60 that appears perverted.
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That's old news, and doesn't surprise me...But then again it is basically abandoned wares, short of slimy it is not illegal...Now you know why Jenn don't do alot of pics.
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What could that possibly have to do with posting pics?
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No I think it was more the taking of someone else's work and then secretly selling it via private messages for $60 that appears perverted.
Yup. "Hey guys I'm selling these plans that I made (or substantially improved to make my own) for $60" and no one would bat an eye.
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What could that possibly have to do with posting pics?
Spoonfeeding uninspired guys like you ideas is not my idea of fun.
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I know that contributing to the community in a meaningful way is not your thing.
You just like to make dumb comments and make wild claims with no proof.
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I don't know who died and made you the internet cop, But you kinda suck at that too...
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Nobody believes you anymore.
We keep doing this. All you have to do is post a few pics of something you built and sold and we could end this.
You never do because you are a liar. Just tell the truth. Yes. You have some machines. We have seen pics of a few with a thick layer of dirt
on them or all burnt up. Not one pic of one of these ten thousand dollar projects you keep talking about.
You have been blathering on about this big project for months now. It was going to be a twenty thousand dollar cab. Then it was going to
be an eleven thousand dollar cab.
No pics. Why would any sane person allow their credibility to be flushed down the drain rather than post a couple of pics?
Just stop it already.
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That machine is a conceptual prototype...I was looking for ideas to drive the price DOWN..you talk about giving back to the community what did you have to offer? Absolutely nothing...you want pics? Go to hell!
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you talk about giving back to the community what did you have to offer? Absolutely nothing.
This statement is factually incorrect. I could list everything again if you like.
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@Mike A & jennifer: Would you please use this link http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,139885.msg1447197.html#msg1447197 to set each other on the ignore list? Your constant pointless bickering is really annoying. Also, I'm pretty sure that the OPs of the threads you are poisoning could happily do without that.
Thank you.
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I will try to keep from contaminating other threads. Jennifer is perpetrating fraud all over this forum. It is a problem.
But remember that if you don't like something you don't have to read it. And you can always block me out if that doesn't work for you.
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But remember that if you don't like something you don't have to read it. And you can always block me out if that doesn't work for you.
If I block you, I can't read your posts that are not related to jennifer. Also, if I block you (or both of you), I can still see that there is a discussion going on that doesn't belong in the thread. Plus, there might be people commenting your or jennifer's posts, those cannot be blocked.
Perhaps you could start a 'Mike A/jennifer discussion thread'; if jennifer posts something that annoys/offends/whatevers you, you could quote that post in the discussion thread and post your answer there. This would keep the original thread clean.
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I get it. I don't like it either. However, I think it is important to the integrity of this forum to quell her nonsense. I will do my best to keep it out of other people's threads. You are right.
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Thanks. :cheers:
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Yeah I've looked into it the blocking features on all these types of forums sucks. It really should make you invisible to whoever you block. But no what it does is still lets them see everything you post and then everything they post might as well say "Click here to see what nasty things this person said about you".
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Hi, awesome build! I would love to build another cabinet in this style.
Do you still have the files from Chance to use as a template? I saw the photos you posted, but would love to have the original file to use like he recommended (printed out full size).
What dimensions did you end up with for your control panel and box? I saw the discussion with chance, but could find the final dimensions.
Thank you!