The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Arcade Collecting => Miscellaneous Arcade Talk => Topic started by: testicle187 on March 04, 2005, 01:11:56 pm
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I currently own a Marvel Vs Capcom arcade machine in what looks to be a Ninja Turtles style conversion cabinet. I don't know much about working on these so any advice or tips would be awesome.
The machine worked fine and one day it was running and then turned off. Now whenever I turn it back on it clicks and the switch moves and nothing happens. Just the click like a breaker tripping. My local arcade told me it is probably the power supply, but I am guessing there are many different types of power supplies for these games and I don't want to get the wrong one. Does this sound like it could be the problem? And what is a good and easy to setup power supply for a CPS2 system?
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I dunno what to say (i'm no expert) but I hope it aint one those thing they call SUICIDE thinkg where when the battery dies, the whole thing is shot (someone can fix those, and replace it with
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I tried my Street Fighter Alpha 2 board and it doesn't power up either so I am assuming it isn't the suicide battery. I miss my MvsC :(
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Replacing a power supply is probably one of the easiest repairs you can do. Just make sure that the power supply is the problem.
IF your marquee lights work, take a voltmeter and check the +5 from the power supply (it is clearly marked and usually has a red wire attached to it). If you get zero, the PS is probably a goner.
If you are electronically inclined, you can repair it (schematics are available online for most PSes) or you can replace it. Shop around for a good power supply. New ones cost ~30$.
Here are some examples:
http://www.coinopexpress.com/products/parts/power_supplies.html
Good luck!
APf
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ANy particular power supply you would reccomend? I don't know much about them and don't want to buy non-compatible one.
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Have a look inside and see if it is big and silver or little and (usually) black. Big and silver is a breeze to replace (some screws and a molex connector or two) but are more expensive.
I added a link to examples shortly after your last post, so see above.
APf
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Awesome and Thank you so much! I will go look at my PS and see what it would match up to. I wish these machines just used regular AT or ATX style power supplies like computers.
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They aren't too different from the PC power supply, and I have heard that some people have used them to replace failed arcade power supplies. But I have also read that they can cause major problems on the PCB (cook components) but I have no experience with it.
APf
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I messed with it a little and got the power on with the original power supply. The marquee lights up and you can hear Marvel Vs Capcom playing, but no picture. There is a little circuit breaker (grey in color) that says 5 Amp that keeps popping after I replaced a blown fuse on the monitor board. When the fuse is not in the game works, but without video, but when I replace it the game just shuts off after like 5 seconds and the breaker trips. What could this mean?
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Well, good news and bad news. The good news is that it means that the power supply is working OK. The bad news is that your monitor is not.
I am not a monitor expert (Ken would be your man here) but if I could hazard a guess I would either guess that something has fallen on to the chassis and shorting it or a component has gone bad and is drawing too much juice for the fuse's liking. As to what the component could be, I don't know. I could take a stab in the dark and say that your flyback might have gone bad, but as I said, that's just a guess.
I suggest reposting this issue in the monitor forum so either Guru or Ken can lend a hand with this.
If you are a do-it-yourselfer the repair will come pretty cheaply. Otherwise, you can bring it in to a local route operator and they might be able to repair it for you. Or, if you have money to burn, buy a new monitor for it.
Good luck and sorry I couldn't be more of a help.
APf
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This happened to my Marvel Vs Capcom cabinet (only by coqincidence) I just replaced the fuse on my monitor and it worked... their is usualy a little black piece of plastic covering it... check the fuse in the monitor and see if it is working... ^.< I once payed 30-60 dollars for a repair man to come out and tell me this... lol ;D
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Yeah, and if the monitor is tripping fuses, there's usually a bad reason for it.
Like you HV went out. Ask Ken, he can help. But before you do, look in the back and identify your monitor. Fire the game up and see if the back of the tube is heating up, it may take a minute or two, and listen for the "hum" the tube makes.
You don't have to touch it to do that. When the machine is powered off, you can reach in there, just don't touch the big red wire with the suction cup at the end of it, everything else is okay to touch.
My guess is you blew your HOT and the Flyback is fried. If it's a WG monitor, it takes $28 bucks from Bob Roberts and some soldering skills to fix it. Keep in mind, that's a guess, but when that happens to me, that's what happens. I've owned well over a hundred games, and I hate it when they do that.
Might as well try to fix it, if you are going to have arcade machines, you are going to have to learn to fix them. They aren't as hard as you think.
If not, then you can buy one from betson imperial, a 19" kortek monitor and slap it in there. It think they are $149+18 bucks shipping and you can buy it over the phone.
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If it is a Ninja turtles style cab he will need a 25" monitor, but he can always get one of the chassis kits from 8-liners.com
There is a very high chance that he will be able to pop the chassis kit into the existing monitor and be back in the game, if THAT still doesn't work then he will have to locate an old 25" TV set to put the kit in.
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Do the kits on www.8Liners.com that convert Televisions to be used as arcade monitors allow the TV to be mounted to a Wells Gardner frame? Or will I have to find a new frame? Also, are the results of these conversions as good as just buying a 25" WG Monitor?
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A tv tube will bolt right into the appropriately size arcade frame, arcade monitors and Tvs use the same tubes. So any NORMAL (not Trinitron, not Trueflat, etc), 25" tv tube will bolt into your wells gardner frame.