The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: dgrace on November 13, 2016, 02:35:25 pm
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Since Fall of 2014 I’ve had the goal to build my own 4 player arcade cabinet. Since then i've been mainly focused on first, perfecting my front end, adding games, creating themes (Photoshop is complicated, but awesome). I use Hyperspin (which is amazing btw). I think Maximus Arcade and LaunchBox are also cool but my heart belongs to Hyperspin (I guess, to each their own, right?). Even though Hyperspin is literally a never-ending project I feel like I’m finally ready to move on the next step; building my arcade cabinet. I first looked at DYI options like Recroommasters, because, you know, if it aint broke. And even though I think Recroommasters has some great products/options at super reasonable prices, it just didn't have everything I truly wanted for my dream arcade. They do have a 4 player CP but I didn't like the lack of space between each joystick and I feel the buttons are a bit far apart. I also wanted pinball side buttons and a pinball plunger (for virtual pinball games) which would have been tough with their CP layout. Again, not a knock on Recroommasters, just not exactly what I was looking for.
My biggest challenge was going to be the woodworking; because I know my strengths and weaknesses, and that is definitely not one of them. Luckily for me, my bro-in-law is super handy and has been helping me (see pics below).
INSPIRATION:
Pauly’s Ready Player One Arcade cabinet. He has been a huge help and I can’t thank him enough. http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=146068.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=146068.0)
Paradox Arcades (great arcade cabinets and ideas; if you have the money I would definitely recommend them). You get what you pay for, right? :)
GOALS:
Set Up Hyperspin Front End (pretty dang close)
Design a 4 player Arcade Cabinet with dark Teenage Mutant Ninja Turtles Themed graphics (haven’t figured out who I will have do the graphics)
4 Joysticks, 1 Trackball, 1 Pinball Plunger, 2 pinball side buttons, 4 Admin buttons (Exit, Start, Pause & Menu) and 7 buttons for Players 1 & 2, 4 for Players 3 & 4
2 Aimtrak Light Guns with recoil (haven’t decided on holsters yet)
Make it BLINKY (with LED Blinky)
2 or 4 player coin door (haven’t decided yet).
Add 2 Nuetrik USB connectors at the bottom of control panel. Will also need an input for my Aimtrak Light Gun power supply cord (any ideas?)
PARTS LIST (will add as I go)
• (1) 4'x8' 3/4" MDF Board (or HDF or Plywood)
• Jig Saw
• Hand Drill
• Router & Plunge Router with flush trim bit
• Table saw
• Wood Glue
• Wood Filler
• Wood Screws (1.25)
• Cabinet Hinges
• Pencil
• Some sort of measuring tools (Tape / Ruler / Level - your choice)
• Oil based Primer (See if you can get it in black)
• Black Paint (I went with a semi-gloss)
• Orbital Sander
• Clamps
• Slot Cutter for T-Molding
• T-Molding
• (1) Ultimarc Ipac 4 Interface
• (2) PacLED64 (from Ultimarc)
• (4) Joysticks from Paradise Arcade
• (32) Concave Translucent Buttons
• (4) Player Buttons –White
• (52) Microswitches (4 for each joystick, 1 for each button)
• (32) RGB Button LEDs (from Paradise Arcade)
• (1) UTrak Trackball
• (1) UTrak Trackball LEDs
I am super new to this so any ideas, constructive feedback or suggestions are greatly appreciated and welcomed.
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Let me guess.... aircraft carrier panel? Your image link is broken.
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Yes, I attached the control panel layout.
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Interested to see the artwork. Good luck with the build!
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If it is like Ready Player One, this should be a great cabinet. I like the dark TMNT theme in theory and look forward to seeing what you have put together.
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I'm sure this is probably a stupid question but how do you post pictures? When I try to attach a pic it tells me that the size of the pic is too large. Copy and pasting the pic right on my message doesn't work either. I'm trying to post pics of what I've done so far and no luck. Please help.
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Control Panel Pieces
(http://i.imgur.com/TxcACv6.jpg)
Top CP button holes cut out
(http://i.imgur.com/3tM3qzp.jpg)
Joystick cutout and mounted (that was a pain in the ass. Used a plunge router)
(http://i.imgur.com/v4jZwaV.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/r1cp5lY.jpg)
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Broken pic.
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Sorry, struggling to get imgur to work so I can post pics :(
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Arcade parts and wires. This should be fun.
(http://i.imgur.com/Z7mLl6t.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/aSEpAf0.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/qy4rJra.jpg)
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More broken pics.
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Pics are showing up for me. Looking good so far! :applaud:
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They show up NOW....
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I’m finally almost done with my Control Panel but wanted to add a couple last minute touches. I bought two Neutrik USB connectors for my Aimtrak light guns to be able to connect on the outside of the CP (probably at the bottom of the front side of the CP) and also have 2 power supplies for the recoil. But I’m not sure how to connect the power supply through the CP, like I would the USB input. I would like some kind of output faceplate of some kind for the recoil power supply cable to connect through. I don’t know if I just drill a hole and attach some kind of nut or washer for the Aimtrak power supply cord to connect to? Any ideas are greatly appreciated.
(http://i.imgur.com/uHto7eX.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/6TGHspX.jpg)
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Updates. Finally done making all the cuts for the joysticks and trackball. Trackball fit nice and snug. I decided to do install it flush without the trim (glad I did). I think it looks nice. Next up I will drill the holes for the pinball buttons and plunger and wood glue all the pieces together and complete the control panel.
(http://i.imgur.com/WIPFWPr.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/tHjOWqA.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/BRqbxcm.jpg)
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(http://i.imgur.com/BRqbxcm.jpg)
Uh-oh.
Didn't anybody warn you about angled sticks for P3/P4? :dizzy: :banghead:
Green = good. Red = bad.
(https://web.archive.org/web/20150625124703im_/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/images/thumb/d/da/StraightAndAngledSticks.jpg/800px-StraightAndAngledSticks.jpg)
https://web.archive.org/web/20160809113045/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ#Orientation (https://web.archive.org/web/20160809113045/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ#Orientation)
The good news is that your panel isn't fastened or painted yet.
Scott
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Crap! Didn't know about that. How do I fix that? Is it really that big a deal?
Thanks!
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I top mounted so i'm not sure if and how i could fix that without leaving a huge divot. I'm going to lay a polycarbonate vinyl over the CP but i imagine divots that big would be noticeable. Hopefully I didn't screw myself. Not sure what you mean by fastened??
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Is it really that big a deal?
Given the spirited discussions on the topic and the experience of forum members, it certainly can be.
A number of people who thought it was "no big deal" have later posted about re-doing their fully-finished, playable angled-stick panels.
I don't remember anyone ever re-doing a straight-stick panel to angle the sticks.
If you don't want to take the word of the hobbyists on this forum, take the word of the companies that did extensive R&D and play-testing -- all of the successful 4-player games used straight sticks.
The (2 or 3?) cabs that did use angled sticks were not successful/popular.
It comes down to a simple question: When you play, do you watch the stick or the screen?
When you're watching the screen, it's easier to hit the correct direction if the stick is aligned with the screen.
This is true even if your body is not aligned with the screen.
I top mounted so i'm not sure if and how i could fix that without leaving a huge divot. I'm going to lay a polycarbonate vinyl over the CP but i imagine divots that big would be noticeable. Hopefully I didn't screw myself.
I'd re-do the panel using the current panel as a router template for the outer shape and buttons. YMMV.
To avoid "divots", you may want to consider using a different top-mount method that uses a cover like the example here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,129964.msg1329715.html#msg1329715).
You don't need cutouts for the microswitch tabs if you remove/reinstall the mounting plate.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=129964.0;attach=276491;image) (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=129964.0;attach=276493;image)
Not sure what you mean by fastened??
Connected to the control panel box using hinges.
Scott
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Yeah, based on what i've read it seems like a personal preference. Half of what i've read says they prefer the angled 3 and 4 player joysticks and the other half said they regretted it. Uggghhhh!!!!
The other pickle i'm in is that my bro-in-law has been helping me with the CP woodworking (I'm not very handy) and if I told him, hey we need to start the CP over, he may literally kill me:). So I may have to just risk it. I'll test it out today with like a mock set up.
I mean you're talking only a handful of MAME games and some newer four player PC games (i.e. castle crashers, Jamestown Lost Colony, new Gauntlet, etc.); so maybe like 30 4 player games? I guess if I move forward with the angled 3 and 4 player sticks, and I have someone over playing who isn't liking it, they can just use an Xbox 360 controller instead. I don't know. I guess I need to decide before I move forward.
Thanks for your feedback.
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Crap! Didn't know about that. How do I fix that? Is it really that big a deal?
Thanks!
yes it is. Games that require your outside joysticks (3 and 4) will be practically unplayable.
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Moderator posting in a Project Thread posted in the Main Forum... :cheers:
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Moderator posting in a Project Thread posted in the Main Forum... :cheers:
Fixed. :cheers:
Scott
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Yeah, based on what i've read it seems like a personal preference. Half of what i've read says they prefer the angled 3 and 4 player joysticks and the other half said they regretted it. Uggghhhh!!!!
Well your first mistake is thinking a fundamental ergonomic interface with these machines is personal preference. Most people who like their sticks angled are those who don't give a crap about how P3 and P4's gaming experience is. They're just "checking off the 4 player task" on the list..."good enough" they say...but most of the time the owners won't even be playing on those sticks, so they don't really care.
But if you're not an ---uvula--- and want people to enjoy their experience on your cab, you wouldn't angle your sticks.
Your second mistake is following that CP shape. Most noobs think the design is solid, but the functionality is completely flawed because P3 and P4 will get in the way of P1 and P2. Elbows to buttons and joys is what I'm talking about here.
I don't know why people keep following that design... because it looks cool? The thing about arcade machines is it isn't just about the looks, it's got to function well with the ergonomic experience. If people aren't comfortable playing, they won't care to play it.
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My first cab had angled sticks.... it wasn't fun. I felt so bad that any 4-player game that my friends and I played I insisted I take either player 3 or 4. I got used to it after a while. But there wasn't a day that went by where I just wanted to start over and fix those joysticks...
Since you are in the beginning stages I highly recommend starting over. It's only going to bother you more the longer you have it. It will save you time and effort down the road.
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Always test your CP layout on scrap before committing on the final design. Product testing... Something most people overlook.
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Crap! Didn't know about that. How do I fix that? Is it really that big a deal?
Thanks!
yes it is. Games that require your outside joysticks (3 and 4) will be practically unplayable.
Thanks for your feedback. I guess I don't understand the difference between having P3 & P4 angled and me just standing next to P3 & P4 with an XBOX 360 controller. For example, I tested that out last night and with an XBOX 360 controller, and when I wanted to go up, I pushed the left analog toggle towards the direction my body was facing and not toward the screen. I even tried forcing it toward the screen instead of the direction my body was facing and it didn't feel right. I then grabbed one of my joysticks and did the same thing, facing it toward the direction my body was facing and then the screen, and pushing it toward the direction my body was facing actually felt more natural. . I guess it's a moot point anyway since I am unable to redo my CP. I guess if someone has issue with it, worst case scenario they can use a 360 controller. The gentlemen sharing his design with me said he did it angled and that it felt fine to him as well. Again, it sounds like a personal preference
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A tiny mobile game pad and huge stationary arcade control panel are two different things. But no worries, you're going to do what you want to anyway.
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Yeah. What do the people who designed the original machines know? I am sure they were just guessing when 99.9 percent of them did not angle the sticks. :banghead:
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Oh geez I feel so bad for this guy.
I totally get not wanting to bug his bro in law but then again I wouldn't want to settle for anything less than ideal given the amount of time and money invested in this project.
Tough spot for sure.
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Thanks everyone for your input and suggestions. Very informative.
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I’m finally almost done with my Control Panel but wanted to add a couple last minute touches. I bought two Neutrik USB connectors for my Aimtrak light guns to be able to connect on the outside of the CP (probably at the bottom of the front side of the CP) and also have 2 power supplies for the recoil. But I’m not sure how to connect the power supply through the CP, like I would the USB input. I would like some kind of output faceplate of some kind for the recoil power supply cable to connect through. I don’t know if I just drill a hole and attach some kind of nut or washer for the Aimtrak power supply cord to connect to? Any ideas are greatly appreciated.
(http://i.imgur.com/uHto7eX.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/6TGHspX.jpg)
Still hoping someone has some ideas on this Aimtrak power supply input. Thanks
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(http://i.imgur.com/U5q5WC8.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/gTv6qBb.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/JgdrHUM.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/Aljq1Y6.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/RMHidyb.jpg)
Getting into the LED wiring lately. Going off of Chance's idea (see link below). I ended up drilling a hole in middle of the larger micro switch clip with a 5/32 drill bit. Then twisting the RGB Tropical LED wiring at the top of the LED and then on the end and then pulled through the top of the taken apart button and then the hole from the larger micro switch clip (a little tedious but not complicated). I then tested it on my PacLED64 board. Looks good I think. I'm guessing I need to do this for all 32 buttons before I start extending and crimping wires? That's gonna suck.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=135459.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=135459.0)
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(http://i.imgur.com/bAtNF3G.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/G2gmegS.jpg)
Got my cutting, stripping and crimping tools. After I've inserted all the LED wiring threw all 32 buttons, next i'll need to extend the wires (based on how far they will be from the PacLED64 boards (I have two)) and then i'll have to crimp the ends (with 2.54mm 1x4 Pin Single Row Dupont Jumper Wire Cable Female Pin Connectors) and place in the 1X4 housing pieces prior to inserting into the PacLED64 boards. Am I missing any steps?
As far as extending the wires from the RGB Tropical LEDs go (those are super short BTW), I was just going to strip both, twist both together and then use electrical tape to bind them together. I imagine that's the cheapest option, but probably not the cleanest. Any other ideas? I've read you can also use molex splitters, or extender cable with a molex female connectors, or also butt splice crimps. Thoughts?
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As far as extending the wires from the RGB Tropical LEDs go (those are super short BTW), I was just going to strip both, twist both together and then use electrical tape to bind them together. I imagine that's the cheapest option, but probably not the cleanest. Any other ideas? I've read you can also use molex splitters, or extender cable with a molex female connectors, or also butt splice crimps. Thoughts?
Twist the wires together and use electrical tape??!!?? Take Nancy's advice, "Just say no." :banghead:
Two options you may want to consider:
1. 22-26 AWG butt splice crimps like RadioShack Crimp-On Tele/Alarm Connectors (SKU 6403073 (https://www.radioshack.com/products/crimp-on-tele-alarm-connectors)) or these (https://www.amazon.com/Morris-Products-12142-Connector-Insulated/dp/B01CBVSXMW/) or these (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011CQTR7W/) or these (https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-BHT0-5-Electrical-Waterproof-Terminals/dp/B01M1HW5ZZ/) -- Solid, long-lasting connection
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1490/5112/products/06403073_00_5d1f70b0-c3b0-427b-9791-1298bf04d240_1024x1024.jpg?v=1478050303)
2. Euro-style terminal strips -- These 12 position strips are easy to cut in thirds and the set-screws make it easy to replace an LED if one burns out.
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1490/5112/products/02740680_00_561461a0-88e0-431c-b6aa-90ff9c65193e_1024x1024.jpg?v=1478045285)
Scott
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As far as extending the wires from the RGB Tropical LEDs go (those are super short BTW), I was just going to strip both, twist both together and then use electrical tape to bind them together. I imagine that's the cheapest option, but probably not the cleanest. Any other ideas? I've read you can also use molex splitters, or extender cable with a molex female connectors, or also butt splice crimps. Thoughts?
Twist the wires together and use electrical tape??!!?? Take Nancy's advice, "Just say no." :banghead:
Two options you may want to consider:
1. 22-26 AWG butt splice crimps like RadioShack Crimp-On Tele/Alarm Connectors (SKU 6403073 (https://www.radioshack.com/products/crimp-on-tele-alarm-connectors)) or these (https://www.amazon.com/Morris-Products-12142-Connector-Insulated/dp/B01CBVSXMW/) or these (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B011CQTR7W/) or these (https://www.amazon.com/uxcell-BHT0-5-Electrical-Waterproof-Terminals/dp/B01M1HW5ZZ/) -- Solid, long-lasting connection
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1490/5112/products/06403073_00_5d1f70b0-c3b0-427b-9791-1298bf04d240_1024x1024.jpg?v=1478050303)
2. Euro-style terminal strips -- These 12 position strips are easy to cut in thirds and the set-screws make it easy to replace an LED if one burns out.
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1490/5112/products/02740680_00_561461a0-88e0-431c-b6aa-90ff9c65193e_1024x1024.jpg?v=1478045285)
Scott
I like the butt splice option; since the RGB LED wires are 26 gauge and the wire i'm using to extend them are 22 gauge; so, perfect. The one from Radio Shack seems to be the cheapest. Do you recommend finishing off each crimped butt splice with a heat gun or not necessary? I only ask because a heat gun was used at the end of a couple tutorial videos I watched. Thanks
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I like the butt splice option; since the RGB LED wires are 26 gauge and the wire i'm using to extend them are 22 gauge; so, perfect. The one from Radio Shack seems to be the cheapest. Do you recommend finishing off each crimped butt splice with a heat gun or not necessary? I only ask because a heat gun was used at the end of a couple tutorial videos I watched. Thanks
The heat gun isn't an absolute requirement.
The ones I got from RS a while back (same SKU) weren't the heat shrink kind.
The pic above may be a mistake on the product page -- mine look like this.
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1490/5112/products/06403073_01_011b6f49-ef7f-4957-afcc-5c74c51e37b8_1024x1024.jpg?v=1478050303)
If you want to hide the crimps and add some strain relief, stagger the splices and use heat shrink.
Scott
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I like the butt splice option; since the RGB LED wires are 26 gauge and the wire i'm using to extend them are 22 gauge; so, perfect. The one from Radio Shack seems to be the cheapest. Do you recommend finishing off each crimped butt splice with a heat gun or not necessary? I only ask because a heat gun was used at the end of a couple tutorial videos I watched. Thanks
The heat gun isn't an absolute requirement.
The ones I got from RS a while back (same SKU) weren't the heat shrink kind.
The pic above may be a mistake on the product page -- mine look like this.
(https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/1490/5112/products/06403073_01_011b6f49-ef7f-4957-afcc-5c74c51e37b8_1024x1024.jpg?v=1478050303)
If you want to hide the crimps and add some strain relief, stagger the splices and use heat shrink.
Scott
Thanks good to know
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"Chance's idea", he says....
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"Chance's idea", he says....
Or, his forum rather. Whoever came up with it, had the right idea. Not sure exactly who that was.
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"Chance's idea", he says....
:laugh2:
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Got started on placing the LEDs inside each button. Very tedious but not too difficult. Hoping to finish up tomorrow night.
(http://i.imgur.com/M2AhT4L.jpg)
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Tested my PacLED64 with the RGB (crimping is a bit of a pain in the ass BTW). I improvised using electrical tape until my butt splices come, just to test it out (see link below). Looks pretty sweet.
https://www.radioshack.com/products/crimp-on-tele-alarm-connectors (https://www.radioshack.com/products/crimp-on-tele-alarm-connectors)
(http://i.imgur.com/cDwRDJp.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/zVZX8uv.jpg)
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Looks good so far, I made the exact same cabinet with the exact same layout recently and there are so many things I wish I can do over. I modeled after Chance's design also and couldnt turn back because I loved the layout. I also angled my joysticks for 3 and 4, but on 4 player games I decided to make the first position(player 3) a player 1 instead, and the player 1 position a player 2 to put them in sequence. I plan on redoing the entire CP and box, but when I finished wiring(which took 2 entire days) I am hanging it up and want to see no parts of a crimper or dupont connector for the rest of the month.
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Started glueing the CP box pieces together. Looking good.
(http://i.imgur.com/qULG9Bk.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/t9CMRzb.jpg)
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This may be a dumb question but I just finished putting primer on the top of my CP (using MDF wood). Because I will be laying polycarbonate graphic vinyl at the end do I even need to put a coat of paint on or does just the primer sanded down smoothly after suffice? If I should paint should I just do one coat, sand well and then lay the graphic (when I get to that point)? Thoughts? Thanks
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I'd paint it, at least a coat or two. Or maybe at least seal it, for the added protection. I'm planning to always have artwork and plexi on top of mine, as well, but I will throw a coat on there, at the very least.
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(http://i.imgur.com/lJ7gHm2.jpg)
My bro in law finally has time to help me finish this damm thing :applaud: :applaud: Control panel ready to go. Now it's time to build the rest of the cabinet. I need the specific demensions and really like flynn's arcades' shared dimensions. Anyone else try his and want to share how it went? Or have other suggestions? I also plan on adding a keyboard tray
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Turned out pretty nice.
(http://i.imgur.com/aNAWrZh.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/x8Yv6GF.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/6GfuHEJ.jpg)
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Finished priming and painting CP base. Only put primer on the CP top (just as an extra protected layer). Don't think I will paint top of CP before laying graphic vinyl. Prolly just leave the primer. I sanded it pretty good (the top CP piece) so it's nice a smooth. Thoughts?
(http://i.imgur.com/IZW5jOf.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/Arza1j0.jpg)
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If i'm going to put graphic vinyl on the cabinet side pieces, should I even bother painting as well? Or should i just do some primer? Or both (as an extra layer of protection), since i'm using MDF wood instead of a stronger HDF? Thanks
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My next step is to install the cleats on the side panels but could really use some direction so I'm not just winging it (ie for the marquee area, tv mounting, cp mounting, etc.) Thanks
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A couple questions:
1. I haven't decided whether to install the latches on the CP to open from the back or the frontside of the CP. Any suggestions? Pros and cons?
2. I've noticed some people use metal brackets above and below their marquee and some just do t-molding there. Thoughts?
Thanks
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Got all the cleats cut. Took a little while but finally got them all done. Gonna put them on next week. Need to also connect the wall mount to the TV to see how deep the mount and the TV run when connected so I know exactly where to put the cleat for the piece that connects to the TV mount. Moving along
(https://i.imgur.com/e5EcgxU.jpg)
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Looking good, man! That box is getting close to being up. I love the theme obviously ;)
MUCH cleaner then my build when I started out. I think I had a Wood Filler nightmare that gave me PTSD.
Anyways looking forward to seeing more.
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You angled the sticks.
:bat
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You angled the sticks.
:bat
Of course.
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its the perfect compliment to the bulbous aircraft carrier shape!
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Well we already berated him for that back in November last year. He's stuck, because his bro-in-law is the one doing the handy work, and sounds like a guy who would pants or ball-punch you if you gave him a reason to. :lol
dgrace, at this point I think you're going to just have to suck it up and endure the complaints from people playing on P3 and P4. Perhaps later on in the future you might be able to convince your bro-in-law to take another go at the CP for you.
A couple questions:
1. I haven't decided whether to install the latches on the CP to open from the back or the frontside of the CP. Any suggestions? Pros and cons?
In almost all original cabinets that had CP latches, they were almost always mounted in the front. This was because you could attach a tether/chain to the underside and have it swing open and sit without having to prop it up like a car hood.
Here's an image from one of my older projects:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=127060)
This makes it handy for servicing the controls.
2. I've noticed some people use metal brackets above and below their marquee and some just do t-molding there. Thoughts?
Thanks
T-molding above and below the marquee is just wrong. The main purpose of t-molding is to protect edges from physical damage. There is no point of having t-molding across the marquee since the likelihood of the physical contact up there is low.
Plus it doesn't serve any practical function, brackets are used to secure the marquee plexi in place, and not just for looking professional. Marquee plexiglass would be wedged between the brackets and the 2 wood edges going across the cabinet. This is how it's correctly mounted. There were no "back blocks" or bracing pieces of wood behind the plexi because they would introduce shadows in the marquee light. The only thing bracing the back of a marquee from going inward were the roof and speaker wood pieces that are part of the cabinet's structure.
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Looking good, man! That box is getting close to being up. I love the theme obviously ;)
MUCH cleaner then my build when I started out. I think I had a Wood Filler nightmare that gave me PTSD.
Anyways looking forward to seeing more.
Thanks Pauly. I would say the marquee section cleats was the most complicated since we we're basically eye balling it; with a lot of trial and error. I think we finally got it though.
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Thank you Opt2Not for your feedback. Regarding the angled vs non-angled sticks topic, I actually did a lot of research on that, whether it was reading forums on it, Recroommasters (who does it angled and said they prefer it that way), asking people specifically who posted custom 4 player cabinets on Youtube whether it was angled and if so, whether they liked or disliked it and why, and got a lot of different responses from everyone I contacted. Some said they hated it angled and some said they preferred them angled (who had done it both ways). While I'm sure this response will piss off some on these posts, like you said, even if I wanted to change it to non-angled, there's no way it's going to happen anyway (unless I take up wood working myself :)). That said, we'll see how it goes. I've already tested having P3 and P4 buttons connected on my unfinished CP and I didn't initially have any issues with it. I guess time will tell. And if I (or others) end up hating it for whatever reason, then I will make a new CP with those changes in the future.
Regarding opening the CP from the front vs the back, I agree why opening from the back is better, as to not have to open it and prop it up like a car hood whenever I want to go in there and mess with the buttons and wiring. My only concern is I am installing a plunger on the bottom right of the CP box and I worry about the top of the CP hitting it and obstructing it from opening as far as I'd like it to (as Pauly experienced with his Ready Player One Arcade cab and his plunger). Ugghhh. That's a hard one. Because I'm doing the plunger it seems opening from the front would make more sense, but then I'm still faced with having to prop it up like a car hood (like you said). I've also considered doing a launch ball button instead since I will eventually do a virtual pinball machine (in a couple years) in which a plunger is a must.
Thanks for your feedback regarding the Metal L-Brackets over the marquee vs T-molding. That makes perfect sense.
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fire up some 2 player smash TV and let me know how easy it is to play.
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fire up some 2 player smash TV and let me know how easy it is to play.
LOL ... I think that's a good point and a fair argument (regarding that game specifically). Having the angled p3 & p4 sticks would make that game tough.
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Recroommasters works for you. Just because they’re doing it the wrong way doesn’t mean you have to buy it that way.
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I just finished cutting all my cabinet pieces with a slot cutter for the t-molding. Hopefully this weekend I can start actually connecting all the pieces and put the cabinet together. When it comes to determining the width do you just base it off the width of your tv (mine is 32 inch Samsung) and just leave an inch or two of space in between the side panels and each side of the tv? Thanks
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fire up some 2 player smash TV and let me know how easy it is to play.
LOL ... I think that's a good point and a fair argument (regarding that game specifically). Having the angled p3 & p4 sticks would make that game tough.
When you're done trying Smash TV let me know how these fair:
Black Widow
Robotron: 2084
Crazy Climber
Crazy Climber 2
QB-3
Karate Champ
Draco
Angel Kids
Bullet
Libble Rabble
Krull
Splat!
Space Dungeon
Title Fight
Screw Loose
Munch Mobile (a.k.a. Joyful Road)
Mars
Rock Climber
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My 4-player machine has angled sticks, it was made over 8 years ago, wouldn't changed them. You get used to them.
If you ever had a console gaming session with friends and don't get the center seat on the couch, would you hold the controller straight to face the tv even if you're slightly off to the side?
Dgrace looking forward to your next update.
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Angled sticks are wrong. If they were correct you wouldn't have to get used to them.
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fire up some 2 player smash TV and let me know how easy it is to play.
LOL ... I think that's a good point and a fair argument (regarding that game specifically). Having the angled p3 & p4 sticks would make that game tough.
When you're done trying Smash TV let me know how these fair:
Black Widow
Robotron: 2084
Crazy Climber
Crazy Climber 2
QB-3
Karate Champ
Draco
Angel Kids
Bullet
Libble Rabble
Krull
Splat!
Space Dungeon
Title Fight
Screw Loose
Munch Mobile (a.k.a. Joyful Road)
Mars
Rock Climber
I looked into these games and most of them (like 90%) are either one player or 2 player (taking turns), so one should be able to simply use player 1 and 2 joysticks (non angled) to play the games. As far as 2 player games requiring 2 joysticks for each player simultaneously, I can see it being a bit of a challenge if player 3 & 4 are angled. I also plan on having a flight stick, so I guess that could be substituted as one of the joysticks if the angled one was that annoying during a game like Smash TV. jmike, have you tried Smash TV 2 player using angled player 3 & 4 joysticks? If not, try it out and let us know. If so, how did it feel? Was it difficult with one joystick being straight and the other being angled? I have tested it on my CP yet. Thanks
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Another question. What are people's thoughts on having a 1/8" plexi covering the CP (for a smoother feel while playing) vs. just having the polycarbonate graphic vinyl over the CP (with no plexi cover before attaching all the buttons and trackball)? Just curious.
Thanks
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My 4-player machine has angled sticks, it was made over 8 years ago, wouldn't changed them. You get used to them.
If you ever had a console gaming session with friends and don't get the center seat on the couch, would you hold the controller straight to face the tv even if you're slightly off to the side?
You got used to them? So you admit they're wrong in the first place?
The console gaming analogy is also disingenuous to this point because A). You hold the entire controller in your hand, and are free to adjust your hand positions, as opposed to standing next to a mounted stationary position. B). The angle in which you're standing next to the stationary position of a cabinet is greater than the angle you'd sit facing a TV on the couch. And if it were sitting on either end of the couch, not centered, you would angle your body towards the TV as if playing in front of it.
Angled P3 and P4 sticks is just ergonomically wrong. Period.
Another question. What are people's thoughts on having a 1/8" plexi covering the CP (for a smoother feel while playing) vs. just having the polycarbonate graphic vinyl over the CP (with no plexi cover before attaching all the buttons and trackball)? Just curious.
Thanks
- Your hands stick to the plexi/acrylic easier when sweating
- Those with rings and watches will scratch the surface of the plexi/acrylic
- Over time, UV light will yellow your plexi/acrylic
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Thanks opt2not for your feedback on potentially adding plexi to the top of the CP. You make some valid points.
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Does anyone have any recommendations on where to buy a marquee light? Thanks
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My 4-player machine has angled sticks, it was made over 8 years ago, wouldn't changed them. You get used to them.
If you ever had a console gaming session with friends and don't get the center seat on the couch, would you hold the controller straight to face the tv even if you're slightly off to the side?
You got used to them? So you admit they're wrong in the first place?
The console gaming analogy is also disingenuous to this point because A). You hold the entire controller in your hand, and are free to adjust your hand positions, as opposed to standing next to a mounted stationary position. B). The angle in which you're standing next to the stationary position of a cabinet is greater than the angle you'd sit facing a TV on the couch. And if it were sitting on either end of the couch, not centered, you would angle your body towards the TV as if playing in front of it.
Angled P3 and P4 sticks is just ergonomically wrong. Period.
Another question. What are people's thoughts on having a 1/8" plexi covering the CP (for a smoother feel while playing) vs. just having the polycarbonate graphic vinyl over the CP (with no plexi cover before attaching all the buttons and trackball)? Just curious.
Thanks
- Your hands stick to the plexi/acrylic easier when sweating
- Those with rings and watches will scratch the surface of the plexi/acrylic
- Over time, UV light will yellow your plexi/acrylic
Thank you, I don’t know why everybody keeps bringing up console controllers. They’re nowhere near the same thing. I know it may seem like they are, but they’re really not.
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Does anyone have any recommendations on where to buy a marquee light? Thanks
Home depot, under counter lighting section, get led.
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Ive used one of these in the past
(http://www.sanyuren.club/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/Fluorescent-Tube-Light-Fixture-On-Diy-Light-Fixtures-Beautiful-Ikea-Light-Fixtures.jpg)
They are less than 10 bucks, but i wouldnt do it again. Too much light and orange glow. I would go led every time now.
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Ive used one of these in the past
(http://www.sanyuren.club/wp-content/uploads/2017/05/Fluorescent-Tube-Light-Fixture-On-Diy-Light-Fixtures-Beautiful-Ikea-Light-Fixtures.jpg)
They are less than 10 bucks, but i wouldnt do it again. Too much light and orange glow. I would go led every time now.
Get a natural light fluorescent tube. Oranginess solved.
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Wrap the bulb in yellow paper. That's what I do and it always looks great. Hell, print out yellow on white paper on your office printer. That works great, too.
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Thanks for the suggestions on the marquee light. Any thoughts on my question above regarding determining the width of the cabinet? I was just going have 1 inch of space between sides of tv and cab side panels. Or should I do 2 inches? Thanks
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Based on my current placement of cleats in the marquee area, my marquee height will be roughly between 5.5 - 5.75". It's a little more narrow than i'd like but I feel like making it wider might screw up my other placements. What's the standard height that most prefer? 6" I presume? I guess I don't mind a marquee a little more narrow. Does anyone have any thoughts on that? Thanks
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Does anyone have any recommendations on where to buy a marquee light? Thanks
For my Star Wars cab I used a cheap warm white LED strip I bought at a local store for about 15$. To spread the light I used aluminum foil. The LED strip came with a simple IR remote control dimmer so I can make it as bright or dimmed as I want it to be. I put the IR receiver behind the Marquee plexi with artwork (top left corner in the picture) and if I point the remote within a meter (3 feet) distance it works perfectly.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=363584;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=363728;image)
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Does anyone have any recommendations on where to buy a marquee light? Thanks
For my Star Wars cab I used a cheap warm white LED strip I bought at a local store for about 15$. To spread the light I used aluminum foil. The LED strip came with a simple IR remote control dimmer so I can make it as bright or dimmed as I want it to be. I put the IR receiver behind the Marquee plexi with artwork (top left corner in the picture) and if I point the remote within a meter (3 feet) distance it works perfectly.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=363584;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=363728;image)
Thanks man. I like your idea. Very creative
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Finally starting to put this thing together. Hopefully going back to bro-in-law's on Tues to continue connecting this bad boy. Trying to get the box finished before winter really hits here in Idaho. Gonna be harder to cut outside in the snow:). Then all I have left to do is paint, graphics, electrical, wire management, etc.
(https://i.imgur.com/WDXhbFU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wRTjbea.jpg)
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Any suggestions on 120 mm usb (I don't know if they have to be USB??) fans for the arcade and where to buy from? I think I'm going to do 2 up top and 2 towards the bottom (on the backside). Thanks
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You don't have to get usb fans, just splice a pc power connector onto a dc power brick. (See below link) I found some LED speed controllable PC Fans which I put in mine.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WkJ0AD59EYw (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WkJ0AD59EYw)
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I'm back and about 95% done with the woodworking. My bro in law has finally had time to help me finish this beast of a project. This project has taken forever but is totally worth it. Will be awesome when it's finished. Once woodworking is finished, on to painting, graphics and electrical.
(https://i.imgur.com/qhHM25P.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bJNJZDd.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bTmIr6Z.jpg)
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I'm struggling to figure out what specific cabinet hinges I need for the keyboard/storage area below the control panel. I asked Flynn from Flynn's arcade forum and he couldn't remember which specific hinges he used. I also went to both Home Depot and Lowe's and no one could help me there either. Any help or suggestions would be greatly appreciated. This is literally my last step before I move on to painting. Thanks
(https://i.imgur.com/9unhCeA.jpg)
This is a pic from Flynn's arcade showing the hinges I'm looking for. Anyone know what kind of hinges these are?
(https://i.imgur.com/FnAH24g.jpg)
Update: I went to a local advanced hardware store and they were able to help me find the correct hinges. That was a bit of a pain but it looks like we got it figured out.
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Update on the arcade. Finally got it all together and painted. Paint job turned out real nice in my opinion, for being the first time I ever painted, literally anything.
Someone with a lot more experience with graphics and photoshop is currently looking at some PSD files I sent him for the side, marquee and CP graphics. Once I get those ordered I should be golden. I'm waiting on the graphics to then finish wiring all the buttons and leds, and placing in the plexi glass. Hopefully i'll be 100% done with this bad boy within the next month. This has been quite the experience. I'll probably do a video of it when it's done. Below are some photos of where i'm at. I have the buttons working so me and the boys can at least enjoy some Ninja Turtles and NBA Jam in the meantime. The joystick plates are currently taped on. I didn't want to screw them in until I got the CP graphics.
(https://i.imgur.com/utzvwZ0.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/OVfFqLa.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/kfqimyb.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mirYtQ7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/4aDIzlP.jpg)
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Is that Virtua Tennis?
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Is that Virtua Tennis?
Yes, I was playing VT4 at the time, from Teknoparrot, just to test a 4 player game. Worked great :)
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Bro. I had no idea that existed.
:o
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dgrace, I love this project, good job! Any updates? Did you get any artwork done yet?
By the way, you really should ignore the few loudspoken people against angled joysticks. Have you noticed how aggressive they speak against it? I've noticed that it's usually the same handful of guys that seem to hunt down any 4-player control panel projects and take over the thread with their "It's a sin to angle them!" nonsense.
Let me give you some encouragement. Take a look at your picture. Angled joysticks allows players 3 and 4 to be looking at the monitor instead of the wall. It also creates a small amount of additional feet/arm space between all of the players.
(https://i.imgur.com/mirYtQ7.jpg)
Poor fella, you got trounced by their agenda which made you second guess your control panel. Here's some actual constructive help that you could do without modification to your current control panel. You can upgrade your JLW joysticks to UltraStik 360's (which are based on JLW's) which allows you to program the direction: straight or angled. In other words, the joysticks are physically angled, but you can electronically change the direction to anything you want. UltraStiks allows you to program them on-the-fly so you can play 2-player simultaneous doublestick games like SmashTV perfectly. Heck, you don't even need to unscrew your current joysticks if you don't want to. You can add the UltraStik 360 circuit boards to the bottom of your current joysticks.
Keep your head up. Everything is looking great. Keep up the good work.