The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: Rick on December 21, 2014, 12:06:53 am
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Hey all,
So, I bit the bullet. I've decided I'm tired of trying to find a local CNC shop that are able to act respectfully, provide good pricing and communicate regularly. I've decided that it's time to build my own CNC machine.
I've been following CNC for a number of years now, and believe I have the ability to build my own machine. I'm not going to go with a simple, small hobby machine. My build is going to be a full-size unit that will handle 49" x 97" stock. I'm dead serious about giving the community a well-priced solution for arcade cabinets, and in my experience, doing it myself is definitely the best option.
To give you a bit of history, I've been designing and building arcade cabinets for a couple of years now, and have been providing CNC-cut bartops to the Canadian market. In the past six months, the CNC shop that I've been working with have 'closed up shop', sold their machine, and decided that they didn't want to be in the CNC business any longer. I've been talking with the guy who made all of these decisions, and he's definitely sorry he made that choice, but the deal's done. I don't have a CNC shop that can provide me with what I need to create my designs.
I do have a local shop who is able to cut out this one final project for me - at a premium, sadly, but it will be well worth it in the end. (I was hoping to have them continue to provide me with bartop quotes, but their cost is actually more than I was charging for the cabinets - and I'm not interesting in raising my prices or gouging the community.)
So, with my Wife's blessing, I went and ordered some parts from "BuildYourCNC.com" (https://buildyourcnc.com/item/electronicsAndMotors-3axis-651-elcombo)...
(http://i.imgur.com/8pdT2Gz.jpg)
...and I've started to design my machine.
(http://i.imgur.com/5Q1aDkV.png)
So far, I'm well on my way with the Y-Axis Gantry. I've used a lot of great keys from the Green Bull and Blackfoot builds from BuildYourCNC.com, and hope my interpretation doesn't need too much tweaking. (I'll say this: Patrick Hood-Daniel does some amazing work. If you haven't watched his YouTube vids, or looked at his machines, it's well worth a look!) I hope to send the design over to the shop in the next couple of days - but first, I need to take each of the 20+ pieces apart, and break it into layers, so that they can interpret it properly.
I've been working with CamBam and Mach3, and have successfully playtested a few designs to see if they'll cut once everything is running. It's really exciting to watch (for me, anyway) and I'm really stoked to continue!
I'm planning on getting the gantry built up over the next few weeks, and work on the final design for a vacuum-assisted table, and once everything is 'ready to go', I'll be looking for space to work in. I've called local storage locations, and have one 20 minutes from me that will allow me to work in a storage unit. If I'm lucky, prior to moving in there, I may find someone locally who will accept $150/mo. to work in their garage or shed.
I'm planning on updating the thread as we go, with new design work, build-up, software info and my cut progress. Stay tuned!
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Stoked! :applaud:
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Nice! I too built a CNC (well mostly) but shelved it due to lack of space and noise restrictions (having a router running for hours in the garage was NOT an option). Anyways, I look forward to living vicariously through you!
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Hey Rick,
Do you plan on using the USB or the Parallel port off that breakout board?
If it's USB, you need the Planet CNC software, and if you intend to use the Parallel port, make sure you are running a 32bit version of Win 7 (if you are using Win 7) as the 64bit drivers don't function with Mach.
I am be no means an expert, but I will follow and help where I can ::)
Myself (and probably Yvan) will be following with interest.
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Stoked! :applaud:
Me too, man! I put in about five hours in Solidworks yesterday, and hope to finalize the gantry design later today.
Nice! I too built a CNC (well mostly) but shelved it due to lack of space and noise restrictions (having a router running for hours in the garage was NOT an option). Anyways, I look forward to living vicariously through you!
What size CNC did you build, and what options did you use? I'm going with a roller chain for the X and Y axis, with a lead screw for the Z axis, and hope to work towards a rack and pinion system for a future upgrade. Maybe upgrade to a proper spindle when I have my workshop built as well. (Every spindle I've found so far required a 220V supply.)
Do you plan on using the USB or the Parallel port off that breakout board? If it's USB, you need the Planet CNC software, and if you intend to use the Parallel port, make sure you are running a 32bit version of Win 7 (if you are using Win 7) as the 64bit drivers don't function with Mach.
I bought the parallel board, because of the compatibility with my software. Thanks for the tip on the Windows 7 distro. I usually install 64-bit, this is definitely a time-saver.
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I'm not going to go with a simple, small hobby machine.
Hey now, are you making fun of my simple, small hobby machine? :laugh:
I can't wait to see this up and running too. Subscribed. :cheers:
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What do you plan to do about dust collection?
Also, what other services besides arcade cabinets do you plan to offer?
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Hey now, are you making fun of my simple, small hobby machine? :laugh:
LOL, hardly! I love the progress you've made on your system. Every machine works on similar principles, and I'm hoping that I can at least come close to your success!
What do you plan to do about dust collection? Also, what other services besides arcade cabinets do you plan to offer?
I've built in a vacuum shoe into the design, and have a Dust Deputy and a Shop Vac ready for the task. If that doesn't work, I'll upgrade the vacuum to a full Dust Collector. I'm definitely very, very concerned with the cleanliness of everything, and want to spend as little time as possible cleaning up dust.
I'm going to building the arcade cabinets, and will be getting back into sign-making as well. Those two things I have experience with. I'm also considering building custom cabinetry for kitchens, bathrooms, and stuff. Other than that, I'm open to suggestions.
;)
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Congratulations on what will probably be a hair-pulling but rewarding decision. I've been out of the BYOAC crowd for a few years and when I returned recently to see a couple folks offering CNC cut cabs I was super surprised to find out that they both were outsourcing the cutting and still offering reasonable prices. My CNC machine that I built for work has been an amazing tool for our scenery construction for stage shows and it's always seemed like a perfect fit to cut cabinets on one.
I'm not familiar with buildyourowncnc but it looks like a MDF based machine, and your mention of the chain drive and later upgrading makes me feel obligated to mention www.mechmate.com (http://www.mechmate.com) you can't download plans or look a the build threads without creating an account but it's a great site with a very industrial quality machine when it's complete. The did start charging for plans since I built mine which is a bummer but you may try to see if the old plans are available somewhere.
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Congratulations on what will probably be a hair-pulling but rewarding decision. I've been out of the BYOAC crowd for a few years and when I returned recently to see a couple folks offering CNC cut cabs I was super surprised to find out that they both were outsourcing the cutting and still offering reasonable prices. My CNC machine that I built for work has been an amazing tool for our scenery construction for stage shows and it's always seemed like a perfect fit to cut cabinets on one.
Thanks and welcome back!
I'm not familiar with buildyourowncnc but it looks like a MDF based machine, and your mention of the chain drive and later upgrading makes me feel obligated to mention www.mechmate.com (http://www.mechmate.com) you can't download plans or look a the build threads without creating an account but it's a great site with a very industrial quality machine when it's complete. The did start charging for plans since I built mine which is a bummer but you may try to see if the old plans are available somewhere.
The machine that BuildYourOwnCNC offers is definitely MDF, but I'm planning on having mine cut from 18mm Baltic Birch Plywood for added stability. (In fact, I'm pretty sure I'm over-engineering the whole thing, as I've carried the torsion-box design into the gantry as well. It'll be a mite heavier, but definitely rock-solid.) I've done quite a bit of research on the MechMate, and unfortunately, I know I don't have enough experience with metalwork and welding to assemble one. They're also very expensive to buy as a kit. There are also options for using 80/20 extruded aluminum, but this would result in a machine that would cost a significant amount more than one I can craft myself.
Depending on the success of this first machine, I may look at other options in the future, however, I think the thing I'm most looking forward to is the ability to re-craft my own improvements as I determine what I can do to make my machine better. (That, or cut an entirely new machine on it... Hey, isn't that how Skynet started?)
;)
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I would definitely explore all your options, Rick. There are guys on KLOV who have gotten out of the full-size cab business because it's a LOT of work with little reward. If you're doing signs, shelves, regular cabinets, and furniture, at least you have stuff to fall back on. :cheers:
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I would definitely explore all your options, Rick. There are guys on KLOV who have gotten out of the full-size cab business because it's a LOT of work with little reward. If you're doing signs, shelves, regular cabinets, and furniture, at least you have stuff to fall back on. :cheers:
I hear you, and you're right. I definitely can see the use for the machine in other avenues, in case there's a lull in the arcade market. Worst case scenario, if I ever tire of the machine, I want to make sure it's modular, so it can be disassembled and sold... ...or else, become a Canadian source for well priced CNC machines.
There are definitely a lot of options for a machine like this. Making different machines (smaller, or specialized machines) is definitely one I'm considering exploring. I actually want to build a smaller footprint one later for laser work, as there's a big market in laser-cut fabric and textiles throughout North America.
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There are guys on KLOV who have gotten out of the full-size cab business because it's a LOT of work with little reward.
If you start up a business selling $20 boards for $500 to people that know how to use a saw - you're gonna have a bad time.
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What size CNC did you build, and what options did you use? I'm going with a roller chain for the X and Y axis, with a lead screw for the Z axis, and hope to work towards a rack and pinion system for a future upgrade. Maybe upgrade to a proper spindle when I have my workshop built as well. (Every spindle I've found so far required a 220V supply.)
The bed was 24x48 with no bells and whistles--the lead screws were 5/8" threaded rod while the x-axis was a 1/2" acme square thread rod. I took it all apart to rebuild the bed since I was getting a 1/8" deflection when the gantry was in the middle and the spindle was installed. The spindle was a rotozip running at a modest 30,000 rpm (which is ridiculously fast and loud). The electronics were some kit I bought off ebay that worked ok in testing once I got mach3 running--haven't looked at it in months though...
It seems half the guys building them on buildyourcnc.com , were in the sign business so that seems like a good fit for non arcade related stuff...
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The bed was 24x48 with no bells and whistles--the lead screws were 5/8" threaded rod while the x-axis was a 1/2" acme square thread rod. I took it all apart to rebuild the bed since I was getting a 1/8" deflection when the gantry was in the middle and the spindle was installed. The spindle was a rotozip running at a modest 30,000 rpm (which is ridiculously fast and loud). The electronics were some kit I bought off ebay that worked ok in testing once I got mach3 running--haven't looked at it in months though...
What do you think was causing the deflection? (Feed rate? Rotozip's smaller tool size?) What are you using it to cut up?
It seems half the guys building them on buildyourcnc.com, were in the sign business so that seems like a good fit for non arcade related stuff...
A few years ago, I owned a CarveWright, which worked pretty well for making signs. I had placed a few ads in our local Craigslist/Kijiji, and was making house number signs from MDF in various designs. (It took 45 minutes to cut a single sign, which in hindsight, was incredibly slow.) I'm definitely going to start this up again once the CNC is functional. I'm also looking for a Canadian supplier for sign foam, so that I can produce better signs in a more resilient material. The sign I have hung outside my front door is in surprisingly good shape for being in the elements for 5+ years, but obviously, it could be improved with better material.
(http://i.imgur.com/xmi6Anu.jpg)
It has a couple of nicks in it now, but considering MDF acts like a sponge when it is subjected to water, I'm pretty happy it's lasted this long.
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My deflection was caused by only using one layer of 3/4" mdf--it simply wasn't strong enough once you loaded up the gantry withe the electronics and spindle--On a dry fit it was maybe 1/16" which I though I could live with, but got worse as more and more stuff was added. I took it apart and rebuilt the bed and never put the gantry back together (one of these days..). I also built a vacuforming bed that fits over top that plugs into the shop vac. It needed to be sanded to make it nice and airtight but it was getting there...
I got this far before stopping updates:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,123324.msg1309834.html#msg1309834 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,123324.msg1309834.html#msg1309834)
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My deflection was caused by only using one layer of 3/4" mdf--it simply wasn't strong enough once you loaded up the gantry withe the electronics and spindle--On a dry fit it was maybe 1/16" which I though I could live with, but got worse as more and more stuff was added. I took it apart and rebuilt the bed and never put the gantry back together (one of these days..). I also built a vacuforming bed that fits over top that plugs into the shop vac. It needed to be sanded to make it nice and airtight but it was getting there...
Ahhh, I remember your build. It was definitely one of my happier reads, as I always love when someone builds something for the sheer enjoyment of it, and learns along the way. I certainly hope you come back to it!
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Here's an example of what I mean, regarding the improved stability:
(http://i.imgur.com/S3mgwMj.png)
It's definitely overkill, and I may remove a number of internal supports. They're set at 6" centers right now, and using Baltic Birch ply, I'm sure we're already in a good place, stability-wise.
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good luck man, i've seen a few folks spend years building one of these things, and still not done.
Spent more time builiding the darn thing than building stuff with it.....
Florinske.nl , did it the right way, just dropped some coin and bought this and was done with it.......
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/fotos/IMG_1129.jpg)
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good luck man, i've seen a few folks spend years building one of these things, and still not done. Spent more time building the darn thing than building stuff with it...
Thanks! You're right, there's a lot of tinkerers who work on these machines for a long time. I'm working hard up front to try and get it right the first time - as I'm not interested in 'playing' with the machine forever to get it perfect. Sure, I'll be happy to re-engineer and improve it after the fact, but right now, I'm very interested in getting this up and running.
Florinske.nl did it the right way, just dropped some coin and bought this and was done with it...
I'll admit, that's a sexy looking machine. For what I'm hoping to achieve, I've only found machines for $50K and up around here... ...and they don't work off regular 220V either. My last shop had some custom power run into it, to run theirs. I could always buy a Shopbot, but they're up around $18K to start at the size I want...
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Are you planning to approach this as a full-time gig, or just as a hobby when you have free time? Just wonderin'.
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Are you planning to approach this as a full-time gig, or just as a hobby when you have free time? Just wonderin'.
I'm hoping for both, starting with a part-time endeavour that (I hope) leads to full-time. I can't think of anything I'd enjoy more than being able to do this full-time.
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Is that a render of the gantry in the upright position? If so its likely way overkill on the bracing--good engineering isn't putting in tons of wood--its throwing just enough to do the job. If that was the bed, then yeah it definitely needs good deflection control as it gets bigger and bigger. The gantry in the "buildyourcnc plans" calls for 3/4" MDF in the vertical position and I got absolutely no sag, fully loaded and center span--Just hoping to save you time, materials, space and energy is all...
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Is that a render of the gantry in the upright position? If so its likely way overkill on the bracing--good engineering isn't putting in tons of wood--its throwing just enough to do the job. If that was the bed, then yeah it definitely needs good deflection control as it gets bigger and bigger. The gantry in the "buildyourcnc plans" calls for 3/4" MDF in the vertical position and I got absolutely no sag, fully loaded and center span--Just hoping to save you time, materials, space and energy is all...
You're right. I'm going to pull out a number of the center supports... This gantry is actually almost 60" across, so I feel like I need some internal bracing, just in case. (Certainly not the 6" centers I have in there now, however.)
;)
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good luck man, i've seen a few folks spend years building one of these things, and still not done.
Spent more time builiding the darn thing than building stuff with it.....
Hey now, are you talking about me? :laugh:
I also agree that the number of supports is a bit overkill, especially with high quality plywood as the building material. However, the stronger your CNC is, the faster/deeper you will be able to cut.
edit: can you please not use 4000+ pixel images in your posts? This thread takes almost a minute to load and wastes a lot of bandwith for those of us with monthly data quotas. :'(
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I also agree that the number of supports is a bit overkill, especially with high quality plywood as the building material. However, the stronger your CNC is, the faster/deeper you will be able to cut.
That's what I understood as well (strength vs. cut speed/depth) and I've tried to emulate a lot of the design cues from the Green Bull unit, shown in this video:
wiring motors an drives (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=42kyLAd7UOc#ws)
His machine has a lot of vertical supports in it (admittedly, he doesn't have quite as many supports as I do - and I am removing a lot of the 'waste') and I'm trying to stay as close to the design as possible. If you watch some of Patrick Hood-Daniel's other vids, he's put a lot of thought into everything he's done. There are a lot of smart ideas in here (which I'm trying to pull off) and some which I think I may be able to improve upon a bit.
edit: can you please not use 4000+ pixel images in your posts? This thread takes almost a minute to load and wastes a lot of bandwith for those of us with monthly data quotas. :'(
Sorry about that! I'll try and consider this in the future.
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I've sent my design to the local CNC shop, and hope to have a quote back in the next couple of days. In response to Yvan's request, a link to the giant image is here (http://i.imgur.com/Co2moi2.png), and I will try and edit the image down a bit in the near future for inclusion into this thread.
I've checked into going with aluminum extrusions as a solution, and it still seems that this solution would cost me thousands, whereas my current solution should cost out in the hundreds. I will let you know, and keep you all advised!
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Update:
My gantry is getting cut this week, and should be ready for pickup on Friday. I received a huge shipment of cable carrier (http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTAwMVgxMDAx/z/jWYAAOSwDk5T-vhQ/$_57.JPG) from China today, and placed another $600 order for parts - bearings, gearing, etc. - to complete the majority of the required hardware. Outstanding items are some 1/2" metal rods, all of the nuts and bolts, and the torsion-box table build cut by the CNC shop...
Stay tuned!
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For some reason I missed this thread when you started it. So I'm late to the party. I'm sure you did your research and all, but wanted to throw out a link to the Ox incase you wanted to use more metal instead of wood for construction:
http://www.openbuilds.com/builds/openbuilds-ox-cnc-machine.341/ (http://www.openbuilds.com/builds/openbuilds-ox-cnc-machine.341/)
I have not built one myself, but was doing research a few months ago in order to get familiar with rolling my own CNC machine if the mood strikes me. Anyway, good luck with the build!! Looking forward to see what she can do! :applaud:
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For some reason I missed this thread when you started it. So I'm late to the party. I'm sure you did your research and all, but wanted to throw out a link to the Ox incase you wanted to use more metal instead of wood for construction:
http://www.openbuilds.com/builds/openbuilds-ox-cnc-machine.341/ (http://www.openbuilds.com/builds/openbuilds-ox-cnc-machine.341/)
I have not built one myself, but was doing research a few months ago in order to get familiar with rolling my own CNC machine if the mood strikes me. Anyway, good luck with the build!! Looking forward to see what she can do! :applaud:
I'll say this - I LOVE THE OX BUILD. That being said, when I priced it out, it would cost me around $1-2K more to build than what I have on the go right now. (My CNC cost came in under $500, including materials, for the entire count of wood components. Can't beat that.)
I may be looking at the Ox for a future build - possibly for a smaller machine - but if my design holds true, it may still be more functionally economical in the long run.
:D
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Ok - quick update. I picked up the gantry cut from the local CNC shop last week, and they are FLAWLESS. Cut from 18mm Baltic Birch Plywood, they look amazing, and I can't wait to start assembly. I've ordered the remaining mechanical components, and they're expected on Friday.
Then, on Saturday, it was my son's 8th birthday, and we went skiing. Saturday afternoon, I went to the hospital.
On my first run down the smallest hill (I have only snowboarded when I was around 18, and now, at 42, I've never been skiing) I was going fairly slowly, back and forth, back and forth. I was about halfway down, when I fell, and started rolling. The binding on my right foot didn't release, so the ski wrenched my leg around about for three or four flips.
I had x-rays on Saturday, and thankfully, no bones were broken. They thought I had some muscle damage (maybe a torn calf muscle) but after ultrasound today, they think it didn't show any immediate damage. (At least, the diagnostician didn't immediately call a doctor.) I'll have to go in later this week for the results.
As it is now, I can't walk - I can't put any weight on my right leg at all. I've got crutches (yay) and am doing my best to be as mobile as possible. Unfortunately, there are a few things I need to do with the build before assembly - one of which is routing a recessed hole for a bearing - where I'm not certain I'll be able to do it without being able to stand without the crutches... Maybe seated, but even that would take some finagling to put the router table and pieces in the right alignment.
So - that's where I'm at right now. I have part of the machine here, and almost ready to assemble, and I'm SO CLOSE. I hope to get to a point where I can at least take some good pics of everything. So frustrating.
:angry:
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(http://www.spicanews.com/uploads/2/4/3/5/24356353/9213514_orig.png)
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(http://www.spicanews.com/uploads/2/4/3/5/24356353/9213514_orig.png)
I wish it wasn't true as well...
(http://i.imgur.com/5CKfbCe.jpg)
...but here's a pic of where I'm at ... right now.
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(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NjMzWDgxMQ==/z/dwAAAMXQDfdRx8PV/$T2eC16R,!ysE9sy0iH+)BR)8PVIZg!~~60_35.JPG)
Those aren't your feet....
(http://www.norcalsc.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/01/2783441apq_o.jpg)
Get back to work :cheers:
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And that's not my arcade fight stick to the left, nor your avatar on the TV to the right? Hmm.
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And that's not my arcade fight stick to the left, nor your avatar on the TV to the right? Hmm.
Ha ha! Proof of life.
Torn calf muscle just sounds wrong. I hope you get better soon.
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Ha ha! Proof of life. Torn calf muscle just sounds wrong. I hope you get better soon.
LOL. Never thought I'd be called out for this, but I'm prepared all the same. (Laying here for the past couple of days, I've got everything I need pretty much handy.)
And yeah, the whole 'torn calf muscle' thing sucks out loud. I'm hoping/thinking it's not that - since I wasn't carted off to await surgery - but I have to wait for what my Doctor tells me this week. My son had ski lessons on Sunday, and it sounds like the guys who gave me the rental equipment may have gotten in serious ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- - as there was talk of the bindings being adjusted incorrectly... ...and they said a break would be preferable over a muscle tear - so I'm hoping it's just a major sprain.
Thanks for the concern!
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Pffft, Rookie.
Oh, I belive you alright, but what i don't belive is that you did something like this on of your provinces so called "ski hills". I bet I've had bigger falls getting out of my car on a slippery parking lot. Let's look at what's more plausible, you got mugged by one of those little old lady pensioners you have out there roming the outskirts of the GTA. Next time you venture past the boundaries of the 401, you best heed my advice and take a shotgun with you, or bear mace. Tasers don't work, they just force their pacemakers to turn them in to "berserker mode" and then you have a REAL problem on your hands. Shoot first, then blame it on the family of 5 visiting up from Rochester, who's the OPP constable really gonna belive?
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I can't believe how mean you guys are being to Rick. Shocked, I say, shocked I am at this behavior.
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I can't believe how mean you guys are being to Rick. Shocked, I say, shocked I am at this behavior.
Your just trying to swing for a massive discount when his table gets up and going. At least I'm dishing out worldly advice on urban survival and granny warfare.
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I can't believe how mean you guys are being to Rick. Shocked, I say, shocked I am at this behavior.
Your just trying to swing for a massive discount when his table gets up and going. At least I'm dishing out worldly advice on urban survival and granny warfare.
Why would I order something from the Great White North when I got HaRuMaNCustoms down the street?
I bet he slipped on some poutine.
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Two words: Coversion Rate.
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Let's look at what's more plausible, you got mugged by one of those little old lady pensioners you have out there roming the outskirts of the GTA.
Here's a documentary on the subject. :duckhunt
Monty Python - Granny Gangs (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5tq89_rAu_s#)
Scott
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Progress! (Yes, I've regained some mobility. My ankle still hurts like an SOB, but I've upgraded from crutches to hobbling around on a cane. That's definitely not going to hold me back from working on this project.)
(http://i.imgur.com/nSPOucZ.jpg)
I've assembled most of the gantry, and have the z-axis carriage complete as well. (Well, that is, until I noticed that BuildYourCNC short-shipped me two of the aluminum l-channels I ordered. They're on their way, and once they arrive, I'll be able to assemble the uprights.) The y-axis carriage moves like butter. I added some nice, cheap wiring carriages from China to accommodate the wiring requirements, and they look - and work - pretty well so far.
A few "learning moments" from this build, indeed. I realized that I designed many of the movable channels with a 3/8" round hole (to accommodate the barrel nuts) and then 1/4" slider... ...which makes using a 1/4" machine screw a requirement. Yeah, not so smart when the ID of your slotted bearings are 3/8". So, after looking all over the internet and local shops for a bearing reducer that will give me an ID of 1/4" and and OD of 3/8", the best I could come up with were aluminum or steel reducers from China at $1.50 each. No thanks. I'm not that patient, nor am I spending that much on each one.
(http://i.imgur.com/2GqCv4i.jpg)
I went to Canadian Tire, and found some tubing that met my needs perfectly. I'll give it a try and see what comes of it. If it adversely affects the quality of the cuts, or wears out too quickly, I'll know to upgrade to a better solution. (Worst case scenario, I've already redesigned all of the parts that have this issue - so I can always use this version of the CNC to cut replacements!)
;)
Next steps are getting the z-axis assembled, extending the wiring to the control boxes so I can get the hookups ready, and building the base table. I'm excited to get this baby up and running - as everybody knows, it's been a very long time coming, and I'm going pretty stir crazy not being able to produce my arcade cabinets.
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Rick,
I may have missed it, but have you decided on what software you are going to use?
I have a little CNC machine on order (should be here next week) and I'm doing some research on software. I intend to use Mach3 initially as the control software, at least initially. But, I'd be curious to know what you are or are thinking of using as far as CAD/CAM goes?
:cheers:
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I may have missed it, but have you decided on what software you are going to use? I have a little CNC machine on order (should be here next week) and I'm doing some research on software. I intend to use Mach3 initially as the control software, at least initially. But, I'd be curious to know what you are or are thinking of using as far as CAD/CAM goes?
I've got Cambam to produce my GCode and I'm using Mach3 for my control software. It seems to have everything I need by way of software for control, and I've just used it to test some of my motors. I've had a few questions regarding how to do some tasks, and a quick Google search has given me the answers I've needed.
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Cool!
Thanks for the response and good luck with the build!
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First of all, I hope you get well, get well soon. /Seinfeld
(http://i.imgur.com/nSPOucZ.jpg)
I added some nice, cheap wiring carriages from China to accommodate the wiring requirements, and they look - and work - pretty well so far.
Secondly, would it be possible to see a photo of the back, especially how you anchored the wiring carriage to your Z-axis? I've added the same thing to my CNC2116 but it's an ugly hand-made hack, maybe if I saw how you did it I'll be able to cut a better-looking method once my CNC is up and running.
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First of all, I hope you get well, get well soon. /Seinfeld
Thanks! I'm doing a lot better! (I've upgraded to a cane from crutches, so there's that.)
Secondly, would it be possible to see a photo of the back, especially how you anchored the wiring carriage to your Z-axis? I've added the same thing to my CNC2116 but it's an ugly hand-made hack, maybe if I saw how you did it I'll be able to cut a better-looking method once my CNC is up and running.
Here's a shot from the top:
(http://i.imgur.com/5NJ2D5m.jpg)
There's a mount for each end that has screw holes. I've attached the one end using screws, and the end that's on the motor will be attached using some strong foam tape. (I don't know what it's called - it's some foam-like, rubbery tape that holds really, really, well.)
I wasn't able to move the gantry to get a full rear picture, as I've got the room packed with parts for the table right now, which I hope to get to assemble in the next week or so. I'll keep posting pics as I progress, and hopefully the above helps a bit in the interim.
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Here's a shot from the top.
There's a mount for each end that has screw holes. I've attached the one end using screws, and the end that's on the motor will be attached using some strong foam tape. (I don't know what it's called - it's some foam-like, rubbery tape that holds really, really, well.)
I wasn't able to move the gantry to get a full rear picture, as I've got the room packed with parts for the table right now, which I hope to get to assemble in the next week or so. I'll keep posting pics as I progress, and hopefully the above helps a bit in the interim.
Thank you, that photo is more than enough. I was hoping to see how you fixed the chain to the Z-axis. On my CNC I've added a plastic plate and simply bolted the chain to my Z-axis. It looks like crap so I won't post a photo until I've cut a proper plate. ;)
P.S.: I see that your low-cost cable chain looks similar to mine and the links don't open at the top to insert the cables. I strongly recommend to have your wires installed through the chain (while you can still keep it flat all the way through) before you go any further.
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I see that your low-cost cable chain looks similar to mine and the links don't open at the top to insert the cables. I strongly recommend to have your wires installed through the chain (while you can still keep it flat all the way through) before you go any further.
Good advice! Thank you, sir!
:cheers:
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Without further adieu, a video for your enjoyment.
I have completed the wiring of the machine, and have to complete the table and mount the gantry. This video shows the machine moving - slllloooowwwwlyyy - through a simulated cut of a side of a bartop arcade cabinet. (I haven't tuned it for the proper speed as yet.)
CNC Test 1 (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FX4Gotge0Gs#ws)
Apologies for the quality. I recorded the video on my phone, and then added titles and crap in Microsoft Movie Maker. (My first try - certainly not professional quality.)
:D
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Forgive the potato, but I wanted to take a quick shot of my dining room right now:
(http://i.imgur.com/UWoirNW.jpg)
I totally rewired everything yesterday, as I found some items which would undoubtedly short out in the long run, and will be posting pics of this work when it's complete. I went a little nuts with the braided sleeves and zip ties.
;)
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What's your plan for dust collection?
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What's your plan for dust collection?
I've integrated a separate holder and shoe for the vac - I just need to add the plastic/brushes around the shoe. I have a Dust Deputy and Shop Vac for DC in the short term, and if they don't keep up, I'll be getting a dedicated DC (http://www.homehardware.ca/products/300/12794251.jpg) from my local Home Hardware.
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Forgive the potato, but I wanted to take a quick shot of my dining room right now
looks delicious.
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looks delicious.
Merci! I'm very excited. Here's some wiring pron for y'all... (Sorry for the poor quality. Once everything is complete, I'm planning on taking some proper pictures with my DSLR.)
(http://i.imgur.com/c845hzR.jpg)
I've soldered every connection to the motors, and covered the connections with heat-shrink tubing. Once complete, I used the nylon braiding and some black electrical tape to tidy the connections, and some color-coded zip ties to keep everything properly labeled.
I have three final tasks before running my cutting tests... First, I have to cut some mounting points for the X-Axis chain guides - I have four to cut and mount, and then attach the chain guides to them. (The X-Axis motors work, and I've tested the movement while holding the chain tight in my hand.) Second, I want to wire in some limit switches to the X, Y and Z-Axis to prevent the machine from damaging itself or causing bigger problems. I have an abundance of microswitches, so it's not a hard task to complete. Third and finally, I need to wire in my router and vacuum system.
Once that's all done, I'm going to do some cutting tests, and then I'll be back in business!
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Rick this is looking darn. :applaud:
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Ref dust collection - a good setup goes a looooong way but not all the way for in-home use. Can you isolate that room from your house central hvac? Are you prepared to put in paint booth style flaps on entry ways?
At the CNC in the aDooreit shop where I do all my work we have a great system and when you're cutting you don't see any dust billowing, but every time you remove a work piece there is a good layer of dust. Especially MDF. That ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- is no joke. Everytime I do sign work I come home brown. Wife makes me take my clothes off in the garage or else it is two days of dusting through the house.
If you're doing panel work in the dining room - well I just think that's a poor decision man.
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Ref dust collection - a good setup goes a looooong way but not all the way for in-home use. Can you isolate that room from your house central hvac? Are you prepared to put in paint booth style flaps on entry ways?
There's no inlet nor outlet in that room for the HVAC, and yes, I'm putting up some plastic to seal the room off - much like a paint shop.
At the CNC in the aDooreit shop where I do all my work we have a great system and when you're cutting you don't see any dust billowing, but every time you remove a work piece there is a good layer of dust. Especially MDF. That ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- is no joke. Everytime I do sign work I come home brown. Wife makes me take my clothes off in the garage or else it is two days of dusting through the house.
I hear you. I'm planning on setting up a camera so I can 'watch the action' but not be in the same room as the cutting when it's happening. That being said, there's a window there where I'll be planning on evacuating some of the dust in the months when I can open the window.
If you're doing panel work in the dining room - well I just think that's a poor decision man.
It's the only option I have available. I don't have a garage, I don't have a shed or even a basement. I live in a converted two-storey from a 70 year old wartime house... I'm doing the best with what I have.
It is my plan to build a workshop this spring, and I may be doing a Kickstarter/Indiegogo with which to help finance it.
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Your wife must really love you, Rick. :cheers:
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Your wife must really love you, Rick. :cheers:
That she does. :D
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If you find you need to replace your dust collector, may I suggest a WiiU?
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If you find you need to replace your dust collector, may I suggest a WiiU?
You may! :lol My kids actually have a Wii and an original XBOX... ...neither of which get much play anymore. You're absolutely right, the WiiU would work perfectly!
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Did some testing this afternoon, with some text. I must say, I'm very impressed with what this machine can do. Here's some 2" tall text, running at a modest 60IPM:
(http://i.imgur.com/aPB5lAE.jpg)
I had to run a couple passes of this test, as I hadn't zeroed my z-axis properly, and the original pass wasn't deep enough. (Now, it seems to be a bit TOO deep, as the Terminator font cut out a little more than I had anticipated it would.)
One thing you can see on the picture above is how crisp the lettering turned out. There's very little tearout in comparison to the holes to the right - those were some of my original tests, which didn't turn out very well at all. I only had an old, dull bit here, and ran it too hard. To that end, it nearly ripped the router mount right off of the z-axis.
I'm pretty proud of the machine, all in all. I've incorporated a home-made zeroing tool, and have an emergency stop as well. The dust shoe is getting a revamp next week as well, as I've got a mounting issue - the magnets are misaligned, and aren't as strong as I'd hoped. I've bought more, larger and stronger magnets to replace them with, and will be reinforcing the z-axis a bit more as well. I will say this - the current dust shoe picks up 80% of the dust from the machine as she runs, and this is simply using a new Shop Vac and Dust Deputy. I'm VERY impressed. The first tests I ran without the vac meant a cleanup of over an hour of three different rooms - dust even made it around the corner to my upstairs steps.
I'm going to post up more pics in the next week, once I've received my shipment of bits from China. I'll probably do more text testing in the meantime, as my current v-groove bit works really, really well and doesn't have to dig that deep for great results.
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Did some testing this afternoon, with some text. I must say, I'm very impressed with what this machine can do. Here's some 2" tall text, running at a modest 60IPM:
(http://i.imgur.com/aPB5lAE.jpg)
Wow, nice text indeed! What software and router bit are you using? And congratulations on getting your CNC up and running!
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:applaud:
Now that its working how hard would you say it was to do?
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Wow, nice text indeed! What software and router bit are you using? And congratulations on getting your CNC up and running!
I used Cambam and the v-engrave plugin (http://www.cambam.co.uk/forum/index.php?topic=3513.0), which works amazingly well. I was concerned I'd need to switch out to use a dedicated v-engraving software, but the plugin is very simple to use - so easy, I had it configured within about 10 minutes. (The pic you saw was pretty much my first test. I think I may make some modifications to the depth of cut, so that it's a bit lighter and the letters don't mush together as much, but that's not hard.)
Now that its working how hard would you say it was to do?
It's a constant learning challenge, but it wasn't as hard as I had anticipated it would be. I would definitely recommend anyone who can, to buy their own machine to learn on. That being said, I'm considering building up a hobby 2' x 2' (and possibly a 2' x 4') machine and possibly selling the kit in the next few months. Something that'll be competitive with the existing (sometimes overpriced) solutions out there.
:D
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Looks good Rick! :applaud:
DeLuSioNaL29
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...That being said, I'm considering building up a hobby 2' x 2' (and possibly a 2' x 4') machine and possibly selling the kit in the next few months. Something that'll be competitive with the existing (sometimes overpriced) solutions out there.
That's a GREAT idea Rick! ;)
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Rick firstly that looks good for first test , try to get hold of art cam as to me it's very simple to use but its a full package and not as expensive as it first appears. How is that dust shoe working for you ? I'm still ( after 3 different ones ) happy with mine
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I use Artcam. It's a lot like my government. It's absolutely terrible until you compare it to anything else, then it's pretty damn good.
Adobe needs not make a version.
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Rick firstly that looks good for first test, try to get hold of art cam as to me it's very simple to use but its a full package and not as expensive as it first appears. How is that dust shoe working for you ? I'm still ( after 3 different ones ) happy with mine
Thanks! This is actually "Dust Shoe 2.0" and I have a "3.0" coming this week - as soon as my replacement bits arrive from China. It does amazing right now - but I hope the next one will be even better.
Is there any reason why I should invest in Artcam over Cambam? I'm enjoying Cambam pretty much right now, and it seems to do everything I need so far.
I use Artcam. It's a lot like my government. It's absolutely terrible until you compare it to anything else, then it's pretty damn good. Adobe needs not make a version.
LOL.
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Looks like great results so far. The lettering is magnificant. :applaud: :applaud:
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Good job Rick ! Keep up the good work !
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Rick Artcam cam out on top when I starting looking mainly because you can build the software package as your needs / requirements increase , could be worth a look .
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I've heard good things about cambam so if that's what you're rocking and you're happy then stay with that. Artcam really shines when it comes to working with raster captures and the layering interface is intuitive if you're used to photoshop. Of course the artcam ---daisies--- figured that out and went and monetized the layering function since 2013 - greedy a-holes. I still rock the 2011 version because it is a more robust package out of the box and I'm not missing any of the bells and whistles that have been since added. 95% of my work is all simple cut patterns tho (I do the g-code for as sign business as a moonlight gig) so it's super simple work, artcam lets me automate a lot of the processes and get me down to where I'm basically a cog.
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Artcam came out on top when I starting looking mainly because you can build the software package as your needs/requirements increase, could be worth a look.
I'm definitely all for the 'best of the best'. I'll keep it in mind if things change! I don't plan on doing a lot of 'minute detail work', however, this could always change.
I was very interested in Artcam when I owned my Carvewright (http://www.mylespaul.com/gallery/data/500/Carvewright_1000.jpg) a few years ago, because the interface seemed pretty intuitive, and very similar to the functionality it had.
I've heard good things about Cambam so if that's what you're rocking and you're happy then stay with that.
It's a nice package, and it's really inexpensive at $149. I can't complain. There's the ability for some quality plug-ins and a good community for support.
Artcam really shines when it comes to working with raster captures and the layering interface is intuitive if you're used to Photoshop. Of course the Artcam ---daisies--- figured that out and went and monetized the layering function since 2013 - greedy a-holes. I still rock the 2011 version because it is a more robust package out of the box and I'm not missing any of the bells and whistles that have been since added.
Yeah, I read that, and that was one of my concerns when I looked at different packages. I'm not one for the whole "pay more for DLC that should be included" thing.
95% of my work is all simple cut patterns tho (I do the g-code for as sign business as a moonlight gig) so it's super simple work, Artcam lets me automate a lot of the processes and get me down to where I'm basically a cog.
I hear you! I actually hope to do some of this as well, but probably more 'direct to customer' work. With the Carvewright, I was making house number signs, but the machine took way to long to do what I wanted to do. Basically, you had to pre-prep the machine with the proper stock sizes, create the layouts in their proprietary software, and transfer it to a (get this) PCMCIA card for transfer into the machine. It's crazy - they still use this system even today.
I just learned a couple of things yesterday... (As well as something very disturbing about my CNC.) On Cambam, I learned to create 'styles', which greatly increased the speed at which I could do things. (For example, I created a style that basically says "cut everything highlighted using a 1/4" bit on the outer path, with a 0.01" roughing template, with a 1/4" depth pass, to a final depth of 5/8", and include 2 tabs per piece". All I have to do is highlight the polylines to cut, and voila, we're set to go. I copypasta'd the code above, made a couple of changes for the finish style, and there - I had a second style for the different pass.)
As for my machine - I looked in-depth at my drivers, and determined that (dammit, China!) the dipswitch settings were 100% REVERSED. (C'mon, China! Who the hell makes their settings "0=On and 1=Off"?) What that meant was, my machine was being fed 2A instead of the recommended 5A, and was running at 1/125 steps/in instead of 1/16 - so, I was underpowered, and under-torqued. OMG, you should see the machine run now! It even sounds deeper and meaner, and damn it if it doesn't just eat through the wood with no chatter from the motors.
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Just doing some more testing with my v-engraving bit, while I wait for my new end mills to arrive...
(http://i.imgur.com/du2MX7k.jpg)
It's a little bit rough around the edges, but I certainly can't complain considering I was running the machine at 120 inches per minute! That design took just over 4 minutes to cut in a single pass. (Pay no attention to the cut-off piece at the top. It's just scrap test wood, and I misaligned my image before I cut it. Noob mistake.)
;D
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I was extremely excited yesterday, when I received my shipment of endmills from China. Unfortunately, I was a bit disappointed that the 1/2" endmill was TOO LONG to fit into my router. (Now, it's not REALLY too long - I would, however, just have to remove the router from the CNC to attach it.)
(http://i.imgur.com/EgtCuP7.jpg)
I received one 1/2", three 1/4" and (unfortunately) one 6mm, which was supposed to be a 1/4"... ...and I have to say, either I don't know how to use them, or else, they are very, very poor quality.
I've been testing all day, and TRYING DESPERATELY to get a good cut out of these bits. I've run at normal speeds (60IPM), fast speeds (90IPM) and even super-slow speeds (5IPM), but I couldn't get a good cut from these bits. I've cut at 1/8" depths, I've cut at 1/16" depths, but all it seems to do is "push" the wood and not "cut" the wood. I've tried each of the above on 5/8" melamine and 1/4" hardboard, but to no avail. Here's a pic of the terrible quality cut on the melamine:
(http://i.imgur.com/Ah9P9ZT.jpg)
FINALLY, I went into my toolbox and picked out a generic 1/2" cutting bit (it has a round nose, but not a concern for my testing) that came with my Ryobi router, just to see what would happen if I recut a similar design. Here's the result:
(http://i.imgur.com/dUwFWFc.jpg)
The rough circles - and the "non-circles" were all cut using the endmill bits - as you can see in the lower "large central circle", it's not a circle at all. The bits actually jammed up the machine, making the motors whine, and causing me to have to use the e-stop. (Actually, the standard operation using the endmill bits during EVERY cut caused problems - the z-axis shook, and actually PULLED OFF the y-axis track at one point...)
Check out the smoothness of the other small circles - they're immediately easy to recognize - these were the ones I cut with the other standard (non-China) bit. EVERYTHING is smooth, and the machine didn't have a hiccup. In fact, it breezed through it, and I'm pretty certain it's because of the bit being used. If I had to guess, I would say that the endmills weren't sharp enough, or else, weren't made for cutting wood. (That's always another option - that I bought the wrong bits, ones that would be better suited for cutting metals or composites.) Of course, I'd like to go with the option that they're just bad.
:D
So - while I'm pretty bummed today, I'll have to look at this for what it is, a successful test. I've verified that I will NOT be ordering any more endmills, and will instead, look for a proper bit for my requirements.
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I don't know how many bit selection resources you've been drawing from but here is a link to a document I find useful when introducing the idea of bit selection to my interns at work or my students. It's by no means a definitive guide but it covers some basics in a nice way that can help you down the track to bit/feed/rpm nirvana.
http://academy.cba.mit.edu/content/tutorials/akf/Downloads/ShopBot%20Trainings/router_bit_basics.pdf (http://academy.cba.mit.edu/content/tutorials/akf/Downloads/ShopBot%20Trainings/router_bit_basics.pdf)
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I don't know how many bit selection resources you've been drawing from but here is a link to a document I find useful when introducing the idea of bit selection to my interns at work or my students. It's by no means a definitive guide but it covers some basics in a nice way that can help you down the track to bit/feed/rpm nirvana.
http://academy.cba.mit.edu/content/tutorials/akf/Downloads/ShopBot%20Trainings/router_bit_basics.pdf (http://academy.cba.mit.edu/content/tutorials/akf/Downloads/ShopBot%20Trainings/router_bit_basics.pdf)
Dude. Duuuude. This is amazing, thank you! I've looked at a number of websites, some of which that have corroborated some of this information, but certainly not in the depth that this document goes into. This is simply awesome. I really appreciate it!
Thank you!
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I cam across this, maybe you should pick one up as a little brother to your CNC machine! :)
https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1853707494/pancakebot-the-worlds-first-pancake-printer (https://www.kickstarter.com/projects/1853707494/pancakebot-the-worlds-first-pancake-printer)
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I don't know how many bit selection resources you've been drawing from but here is a link to a document I find useful when introducing the idea of bit selection to my interns at work or my students. It's by no means a definitive guide but it covers some basics in a nice way that can help you down the track to bit/feed/rpm nirvana.
http://academy.cba.mit.edu/content/tutorials/akf/Downloads/ShopBot%20Trainings/router_bit_basics.pdf (http://academy.cba.mit.edu/content/tutorials/akf/Downloads/ShopBot%20Trainings/router_bit_basics.pdf)
Thats very cool. Just emailed the link the my school DT teacher. He is trying to learn how to better use the school Roland EGX.
Thanks for sharing.
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Here's a quick potato pic of the machine cutting out a full sheet for a Contender cabinet:
(http://i.imgur.com/lbCplmw.jpg)
I'm cutting a three-pass set at (a very conservative) 90IPM with a 1/4" straight bit I got from Canadian Tire (3 bits for $9.99? Yes, please!) and it's going very well. Lines are crisp and smooth. The only thing I may need to fix is the final depth pass, as it would seem that even with a depth of .630" (for a .625" piece of wood) it's not getting all the way through. This may be a z-axis measurement issue, or an issue with the height reporting back to the controller, or even a programming issue. I figure I'll re-run a final pass with an additional 1/8" and that will get through the final bit of melamine.
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Whoa... whoa... whoa........ you actually cut a board?
:applaud:
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Whoa... whoa... whoa........ you actually cut a board?
:applaud:
I did, sir! Finally, and at long last, I have cut one entire board worth of arcade cabinet goodness.
I'll say this - melamine is a ---smurfette---, and I hate working with it. It's sharp, and prone to chipping on the edges. That being said, I'll be trimming this bad-boy down and finishing the edges tomorrow, and then assembling it for a buddy to pick up later this week.
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I can't believe your old lady is letting you do that inside the house. I cut a board outside and there's dust everywhere for months. I couldn't imagine doing that inside the home.
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Igloos are easier to clean than adobe.
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I can't believe your old lady is letting you do that inside the house. I cut a board outside and there's dust everywhere for months. I couldn't imagine doing that inside the home.
I can't claim that the dust shoe on the machine was ever my own design, but whoever invented this thing needs to get a big handshake - it seriously takes at least 90% of the dust out of the air while it cuts. I do keep the curtains to the room closed as much as possible, and I'm considering installing a window fan to blow out into the driveway while i'm working. That room got HOT - like 5 degrees hotter than the house hot - over the course of the cutting - so it would help in that regard as well.
But yeah, you're right. My Wife is very considerate to let me do this in the house. I am working towards putting a proper workshop in the backyard, but since I'm now out of work again, that's on the back burner in the short term. That's really why this beast is here in my dining room - it IS definitely temporary.
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Would you be willing to post the files for your machine? I'm designing a similar machine, and they would be very helpful
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Would you be willing to post the files for your machine? I'm designing a similar machine, and they would be very helpful.
I'm sorry, but I don't share my design files. I can tell you that I designed it from images of the Green Bull CNC machine, found on BuildYourCNC.com, and made my own personal modifications to the design. Some worked, some didn't. If you have any questions regarding how the machine was built, I'd be happy to answer them. I'll even provide some pictures of the various assembled components, if you need them.
I am very excited to announce a new part of my machine, which I haven't seen anyone else do as yet. I have implemented a "cut cam" in the dust shoe, which is essentially an inexpensive endoscope (camera on a wire) that can take waterproof/weatherproof video.
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/MTAxMFgxMDEw/z/70UAAOSw6aVUpmMe/$_57.JPG)
(Yes, it's the same thing your local proctologist would use to check out your colon. No, I did not check out my own colon. Yes, I did put it down my throat as far as I could to check out my innards. Yes, it hurt. No, I don't have pics.)
:D
So, here's a pic of it installed on the CNC dust shoe:
(http://i.imgur.com/2yMEJEo.jpg)
...and here's a pic of the video it's capturing:
(http://i.imgur.com/0Ux6P2M.jpg)
It's helpful when I want to zero the z-axis, as I now don't need to physically raise the dust shoe to make sure it's working properly. It's handy that way.
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I will have to say, pretty sweet man.
Also, wow, in the living room, that's a wife that has trully bought into your business.
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I will have to say, pretty sweet man. Also, wow, in the living room, that's a wife that has truly bought into your business.
Thanks! It's a big-ass machine, but I've tried to make sure it's as clean as possible. The dining room originally had a full wall and door, and we opened it up to the living room so it was more 'open concept'. We have full drapes, however, that seem to keep 90% of the remaining dust enclosed, and I put a fan in the window blowing out... ...every little bit helps!
My Wife is amazing. I know how much of a pain it is not having a dining room, but as long as it's pumping out arcade kits, she's pretty cool about it.
:D
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My face when I realize I forgot tabs on the first part on my new sheet of MDF:
(https://jamesriverfilm.files.wordpress.com/2011/06/eastwood2.jpg)
Thankfully, it was only the first part, and my machine screamed in agony when it jammed up... ...so, I knew something was going wrong. I've readjusted, started the cut from the next 'new' part, and we're continuing. It ended up cutting a full-depth swath through the middle of the first part, so I'll be cutting that piece again.
:dizzy:
Something for all of you new CNC guys out there: when you're setting up a bunch of parts to cut, don't do what I used to do. I used to set up a full sheet, and select ALL of the cuts of each specific type to cut in a group. (So, I'd highlight all of the slot cuts, and say "cut the slots to 1/4" depth, then select the holes and say "cut interior holes", then I'd select all of the external cuts, and say "cut exterior cuts".) This is bad practice, because if your machine gets through all of the holes perfectly well, and then gets jammed up on one piece (let's say it jogs 1/4" out of alignment) every, single, stinkin' piece will go bad from there.
My new "best practice" is to setup a separate cut pattern for each piece, individually. That means, I cut the holes out of a control panel, then the external cut, and then move on to the next piece. If something screws up terribly, as long as you catch it before your machine continues onto many, many other pieces, you will be in a much better place.
To tell the truth, it took me way too long to learn this lesson. I think I've had to throw out about three or four full sheets of MDF before it dawned on me. I don't want others to go through the same thing.