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Started by geecab - Last post by Yolo_Swaggins

Code: [Select]
PORT_BIT( 0x4000, IP_ACTIVE_HIGH, IPT_CUSTOM )  PORT_TOGGLE PORT_NAME("Center Wheel Edge")  /* center edge on steering wheel, IPT_ACTIVE_HIGH fixes the steering alignment in game! */

OMG lol! I didn't try IP_ACTIVE_HIGH on 0x4000, only on 0x8000. I didn't change it on 0x4000 because it looked like it was doing the right thing in the service menu :p I honestly can't wait to try this later, nice one Yolo and well found! :)

I didn't try it either because i already tried it on Airborne and it didnt fix that or stop the behaviour that makes the wheel center get reset, but because i had made that button to activate it i noticed in the reacedrivc level select and car select screen that if i held the button down the wheel would follow my logitech g932 like it should so i just changed it to high to keep it on all the time lol

Another thing i will mention because it might help out in fixing airborne etc is that my wheel EMA code didnt work on street drivin'............i had to start the game then hit f3 to reset the machine and suddenly it would work fine.....i made a change to the code so that it would not send the EMA wheel info when the game boots up, it sends the unprocessed wheel info to the game and then switches to the EMA wheel. When i made this change it worked fine again. I have to change the port_minmax for all of the games for it to work with my code so to me it seems like all these different version of the game have slightly different ways or reading and calibrating the wheel positions which makes finding a fix for airborne maybe harder but as i said before i haven't had a proper look at the info you sent earlier as in i haven't actualy tried to use it yet.......i should give that a go today too once i have a few coffees in me  ;D

The EMA wheel code can be manipulated to make the smoothing more or less aggressive and more aggressive will mean more lag between you moving the wheel IRL and it moving in game. The setting i have it set to in the code snippet below seems to be perfect and stops the wheel going out of alignment in airborne when you make erratic/fast movements. The lower the number the more EMA smoothing/latency is applied and the closer it gets to 1 the more responsive/less smoothing it will have. A EMA setting that works for a port_minmax range might not work if you adjust the port_minmax range to be more sensitive, you'll need to readjust the EMA to compensate for it so there is a balancing act in working out whats best.

Code: [Select]
static const float alpha = 0.082;  // Smoothing constant
I noticed that Hard Drivin' Compact has an other issue that it doesn't fix........the wheel seems to every so often try to go to another position for a split second and sems to make the car skid sometimes for no reason? I'll have another look at it today.

Started by Toasty833 - Last post by Toasty833

I've made a change to the OpenVR2Key program and now it will hold down the mouse click while the button is being held down on the controller. I'll attach the updated version.
Works great now. Had no problems using it in Blue Estate (which needs a continuous reload for the shotgun, probably one of the only games that do). It occasionally seemed to send a left click instead of a right click in M2 emulator, but I'm pretty sure that's an issue with the emulator or the game rather than OpenVR2Key, I've had similar issues before when trying to spam, and I can get similar behavior with a mouse by going too fast between left and right click. Still, got me through a full run of VC2 with very little issue, which is something I haven't been able to do in a while.

So it seems that Virtual Desktop will save the size and distance settings but when you start it again the rotation and position will be out depending on where the headset is in space.

The only thing I can think of at the moment would be to intercept the openvr_api.dll that is in the program folder and send a saved set of rotation/position co-ords to the virtual desktop exe when the program first starts up. And then it will need to resume normally after that.

I think it's possible but will take some time to work out. Also it will need for a position to be captured while setting it up that can be used to replay via dll as it will be specific to your lighthouse setup / monitor position.
Yeah, seems like a pain. I find recalibrating VD to not take that long, 2 or 3 attempts get it close enough across most of the screen. Setting up the screen dimensions is the fiddly part, and at least that saves. In my mind the way to do it would be to have something like OpenVR Input Emulator fix the headset position in space to a preset location (with maybe fine adjustment to dial in calibration), click the recenter button on the program to set the screen angle and spacing, and then cancel the headset position so it goes back to the actual one. I imagine if you did it while wearing the headset you'd want to throw up, though.

By the way, I also found while searching there is another virtual desktop type app called Desktop+ , it's free on Steam and is also on github with source code.

But I think maybe it's not going to be as good as VD.
I gave it a try and the tracking latency seems halfway between VM and VD, but the problem with it is that when the headset goes to sleep after 20 seconds it stops letting a controller act as a mouse, so it's no good. I think it also interferes with OpenVR2Key because it's part of the dashboard and OVR2K is blocked there (although I think older builds didn't have this functionality).


I've also noticed that when a tracker is set up as a controller, the pin for the touchpad button doesn't seem to do anything. Which means I've got to use the menu button instead, which is another point against vive mouse because it uses that input to disable the cursor. Not a huge number of games need more than 2 buttons, but it's a point of consideration.

Started by Toasty833 - Last post by greymatr

Ah, maybe I didn't make it clear, I was talking about Virtual Desktop when it came to remapping, it has a bindings page. OpenVR2Key works fine with my Vive controller/tracker even on the newest release.
I think I just got confused and I saw the author of OpenVR2Key say he didn't have a vive anymore only index so it made sense.

But this is pretty handy anyway. The only issue is there's no repeating function which I think is a limitation of the program to begin with, if you hold a button down it only sends the input once, which means it's not very useful for games with machine guns.
I've made a change to the OpenVR2Key program and now it will hold down the mouse click while the button is being held down on the controller. I'll attach the updated version.

If it were possible to get Virtual Desktop to remember the last window position to essentially save the calibration, it'd just be superior.
I tried out Virtual Desktop, I had used it on the Quest but didn't realise it was a different app on PC. So I can see how you align it to the screen, moving it's rotation and position and then changing size and distance.

So it seems that Virtual Desktop will save the size and distance settings but when you start it again the rotation and position will be out depending on where the headset is in space.

The only thing I can think of at the moment would be to intercept the openvr_api.dll that is in the program folder and send a saved set of rotation/position co-ords to the virtual desktop exe when the program first starts up. And then it will need to resume normally after that.

I think it's possible but will take some time to work out. Also it will need for a position to be captured while setting it up that can be used to replay via dll as it will be specific to your lighthouse setup / monitor position.

By the way, I also found while searching there is another virtual desktop type app called Desktop+ , it's free on Steam and is also on github with source code.

But I think maybe it's not going to be as good as VD.

4   Main Forum / Re: Power button for Dell Optiplex 3020on Today at 12:14:07 am

Started by Bloodta - Last post by Bloodta

I do have the ultra small form factor optiplex 3020 if that matters.

5   Driving & Racing Cabinets / Re: FFB Arcade Pluginon Yesterday at 10:37:42 pm

Started by Boomslang - Last post by PL1

Specifically what did you change from auto to windows in mame.ini?
Change this . . .
Code: [Select]
#
# OSD OUTPUT OPTIONS
#
output                    auto

. . . to this.
Code: [Select]
#
# OSD OUTPUT OPTIONS
#
output                    windows


Scott

6   Driving & Racing Cabinets / Re: FFB Arcade Pluginon Yesterday at 08:37:55 pm

Started by Boomslang - Last post by Super-Becker

Just an update on this particular problem

I re downloaded both mame and FFB plugin. Then changed the mame.ini file to say Windows instead of auto. And everything is PERFECT!


I hadn't seen your post. I believe we are talking about the same problem. Specifically what did you change from auto to windows in mame.ini? I didn't understand.

Started by Ond - Last post by Ond

Back box panel insert completed:


Little spidey speaker grill:


Working on the rest of the back box today.

8   Everything Else / Re: So ... 3d Printers....on Yesterday at 08:06:20 pm

Started by Howard_Casto - Last post by Ond

Thanks for the info Randy, I ended buying the Creality V3 KE. My discount to myself was generous  :lol

Reprinted a few parts for my project with some improvements.  I'm happy with the results:

Started by saint - Last post by Ond

vk

Started by ThatOneSeong - Last post by ThatOneSeong

Now it works perfectly, thank you very much, now I will continue testing things, this is a great project with more memory, more processor and a world of functions that can be added like the analog ones  :lol

Do you happen to have any documentation on how you performed this? I have the Xbox version and was looking to do this same thing. are you able to keep the functionality of all the buttons?

-Thanks
You mean modding a Top Shot Elite? It's not very hard. I made a basic adapter plate to fit a Pico (w/ headers) where the original's mainboard sat in. The back analog stick and buttons will work just fine--but if you're using a 3D printable mount for the camera to fit at the front barrel, then you'll have to remove the original front buttons/right stick board to make room.

I could be horribly wrong on that last part, but it's what I had to do (and I've found my front buttons board was super finicky and wasn't cooperating - plus most RP2040 boards only has enough pins to support one stick anyways).
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