You think its possible to re-locate the analogs to a CP and use them?
What are the blocks under the analog sticks? 2 potmeters?
Can you hookup this one to those:
http://www.arcadeshop.de/Joysticks-LS-64-Analog-Stick_718.html
Thats correct. 'Ghosting' is generally only a problem when hacking a keyboard because it uses a matrix of circuits when closed in combination, form a particular key press.
As I understand it, USB controllers like this, and encoders like ipac etc have dedicated circuits for each button so there's no risk of 'pressing A + B = Button C'
This sort of hack would only be useful for 4-way joystick games, yes?
I can provide just the board (pre-gutted) as well. Good for a simple control panel for the BIL or something.You wouldn't happen to have any Sidewinder Dual Strike boards would you?
RandyT
Randy, the game pads on your site would be hacked in pretty much the same way?
I would suggest that if you use Randy's method (which is how I do most of my hacks, btw), you should secure the solder joint and a bit of the wire with some hot glue when you are done. This will prevent a yank on the wire ripping up the copper traces from the pcb.
I suspect however that even a bulk order might be costly to Australia due to the weight in postage. Maybe when I get my projects under control I'll think about the best way to grab some of those along with various other items I need (like new actuators for the happs :D )Don't they offer free worldwide shipping?
A quick heads up for you UK byoac'ers or anyone outside of the US, they offer free worldwide shipping too! :)
I used a PS2 dvd remote to make a Guitar Hero star power pedal. Turned out great.
Update:
I also ordered a WIRELESS PS2 CONTROLLER (http://www.dealextreme.com/details.dx/sku.611) for US$19.84
(http://www.dealextreme.com/productimages/sku_0611_1_thumb.jpg)
I've just opened it up and its just as easy to hack. I'm going to incorporate it into a desktop controller in the coming weeks so I'll post some pictures and an update on how well it works wirelessly then.
Edit: I've successfully hacked it, and it works great! One point to note however is that there's a 'common ground' for the directions and all of the buttons, however the start, select, and analog/digital switch button has its own shared ground. For a standard control panel you wouldn't need these buttons, but I'm going to attempt something a little bit more fancy :D
you say you have one ground point which you daisy chain with the microswitches... by this, do you mean you would have multiple wires coming from this point acting as one of the two wires going to each microswitch or am I totally misunderstanding?
I wonder if these ^^ are as easy to hack?I just added one to my order using my points, I'll make sure to take detailed photos when it arrives. :)
8-way only uses four directions. It just hits diagonals, like UP plus LEFT. A 4-way stick doesn't hit the diagonals.
Which I already pointed out.
It arrived and I took it apart. I took some photos for you. I don't know what to do now because I don't have any controls, but I do have a multimeter if anyone wants me to test anything.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=84548.0;attach=126658;image)
wow, that looks deliciously easy to hack. how is the USB cable connection to the PCB? is it solid? the last pad I got from DX actually came apart there so I had to re-solder and hot glue it down.Yep, it's solid. There's already glue over the connection on the back.
Like its been mentioned before, the D-pad is matrixed, so when you look at the leads, the Left & Right are the same. This is also the case with the Up & Down. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but I guess the thinking here from the manufacturer is that it's impossible to press both Left & Right simultaneously. Same for Up & Down. So they're actually the same but the uncommon ground differentiates the two (or something along those lines?)
Anyway, the attached photo shows where I soldered my 2 grounds and the directional buttons.
as for cleaning the board, some fine sand paper.. i suggest doing this by hand and not a dremel.. infact you can probably get by with just rubbing alcohol..
they look very similar to the ones GGG is carrying now.
yup looks like you got the right idea, although you could follow that circuit on the d-pad secondary ground and there looks to be a piece of metal being used as a jumper..
Thanks for the tips on not soldering those extra inputs. (I was gonna) I'm not sure why you don't have to but I'll take your word for it. ;D
so this matrix setup on the D-pads can actually be beneficial in the right situation.
well that maybe true, but testing the pads before hacking i seen no "lag" i know this can be a problem on hacked keyboards, but i honestly dont see this being a problem on these pads.
if im wrong i'll come back and eat crow.
you are right about why they would use a matrix setup in the first place.. but lets look at this.. we know it's naively supporting 2 out of 4 directions, correct? you can't press more then 2 at a time, like i said the computer would'nt understand an axis being both + and - from center at the same time, thats illogical in the first place.
also the pads you have i assume that they still represent the dpad to the computer as X/Y axis. so what happens if you press left + right at the same time? or up and down?
im guessing it either 1. dont work, or simply registers right blocking left,
or 2. causes a fault that requires you to remove/reinsert the usb connector.
so you'ed still be forced to use it as the joystick, i can't see what you possibly gain other then a little simpler to wire, of course there is the possible buffer or que overflow but it think that possibility is rather remote even on these cheap matrixed pads.
btw im curious how many button presses can the ones you're selling handle per second? i ask this because not having a matrix pad can still leads to that lag you was talking about if it has a small buffer, and no offense but those look like cheap chinese pads as well.. perhaps a better cheap chinese pad but still a cheap chinese pad.
PS. i need some terminal blocks to finish up my controls for easier wiring, the ones you have can you give me the dimensions of them? i already mounted my pads on some wood so i only have so much space to fit the blocks on.
also any quantity discounts on your electric ice buttons? im gonna need like 40 of them for my 2nd project i plan on placing a order but im still tallying up everything i need cause im gonna be doing 2 or 3 projects, im doing them one at a time but i wanna try and get everything at once to save on shipping and so i'll have it on hand.
Here's some information on hacking the Deal Extreme 'ultra hackable' USB game controller. (http://www.dealextreme.com/search.dx/search.618) (at the time of writing, US$9.19 each with free delivery).
With this controller, you can get 4 directions + 10 buttons (4 face buttons, 2x2 trigger buttons, plus start and select).
This could be used to give you a 1 player, 8 button with credit & start.
or 2 players with one button each, and a single credit / start button.
Thanks HarumaN. That clears things up for me. I'm a Nintendo guy since the NES days (trying to regain a little street cred here) so I'm really not familiar with the PS2. That makes sense though.
I'll probably wind up buying the controller originally listed in this thread then and hack it.
It arrived and I took it apart. I took some photos for you. I don't know what to do now because I don't have any controls, but I do have a multimeter if anyone wants me to test anything.
Sorry to druge this up....
but does anyone know where i can find a cheap easy hack usb keyboard???
the dx link on page one is dead.
atmega32u4 IC is entirely compatible with the previous KADE firmwares whilst providing more pins + analog.
You can find all sorts of cheap USB interfaces on eBay. I think I paid like $10 for the last one I bought - With cables included! Just connect to the buttons and you're ready to hook up the USB.
The USB pad hack I did earlier will be replaced by one of these USB interfaces.
what was the "Kade" i kinda remember something about it.... did it not pan out?(https://s3.amazonaws.com/ksr/assets/000/278/427/012772dc16c72add6edec7f1c17ef9c4_large.jpg?1353867668)
Hi there,
Either use a Minimus AVR and the KADE firmware or Degenatrons mentioned that if you recompile the KADE source code for ATMega32u4, you can use this (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360681719211) chinese board (looks like an inexpensive knockoff of the Sparkfun Pro Micro (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11098)) since,Quoteatmega32u4 IC is entirely compatible with the previous KADE firmwares whilst providing more pins + analog.
Scott
Hi there,
Either use a Minimus AVR and the KADE firmware or Degenatrons mentioned that if you recompile the KADE source code for ATMega32u4, you can use this (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360681719211) chinese board (looks like an inexpensive knockoff of the Sparkfun Pro Micro (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11098)) since,Quoteatmega32u4 IC is entirely compatible with the previous KADE firmwares whilst providing more pins + analog.
Scott
Can you point me towards any instructions for compiling for ATMega32u4?
I can see instructions for getting the source and dev environment setup for compiling for the Minimus AVR but what needs to changed for a ATMega32u4 target?
Thanks,
John
Thanks, I'll give that a go.Hi there,
Either use a Minimus AVR and the KADE firmware or Degenatrons mentioned that if you recompile the KADE source code for ATMega32u4, you can use this (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/360681719211) chinese board (looks like an inexpensive knockoff of the Sparkfun Pro Micro (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/11098)) since,Quoteatmega32u4 IC is entirely compatible with the previous KADE firmwares whilst providing more pins + analog.
Scott
Can you point me towards any instructions for compiling for ATMega32u4?
I can see instructions for getting the source and dev environment setup for compiling for the Minimus AVR but what needs to changed for a ATMega32u4 target?
Thanks,
John
You will need to update the makefile to set MCU and remove the board specific setting for minimus
i.e.
MCU = atmega32u4
#BOARD = MINIMUS
That should be enough to compile the firmware but you may need to adapt the pin assignments to suit your avr of choice.
is this good?
http://dx.com/p/arduino-duemilanove-mega-avr-atmega1280-16au-usb-board-118042 (http://dx.com/p/arduino-duemilanove-mega-avr-atmega1280-16au-usb-board-118042)
or this
http://dx.com/p/diy-funduino-uno-r3-development-board-microcontroller-w-usb-cable-240588 (http://dx.com/p/diy-funduino-uno-r3-development-board-microcontroller-w-usb-cable-240588)