The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: bfauska on March 01, 2007, 10:29:15 pm
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I recently decided that I wanted to try a taste of the BYOAC lifestyle without too much commitment and thought that building a single player cp that I could use with my laptop or desktop computer would be a good way to start.
Because I wanted to use the controller w/ my laptop computer, USB was a must. Because I am an impatient (and cheap) S.O.B. I wanted to order from a vendor in the U.S. to cut down on shipping time and cost. These constraints landed me with a GPwiz eco from www.GroovyGameGear.com (http://www.GroovyGameGear.com) I have only good things to say about the service and products that Randy provides, the day I ordered (Thursday) I had second thoughts, emailed Randy to change my order, had third thoughts, emailed him to change it back, and asked 2 or 3 questions about which software I would want to use with the GPwiz. If I were a vendor I would be sick of myself as a customer, but Randy's service was great in spite of me. I think that I finally made up my mind at about 2pm pacific time (Randy's in NY) and still managed to recieve the parts on Tuesday (Monday was a Postal holiday.)
When the parts arrived I immediatly made a shoebox cp (did I mention that I'm impatient?) I didn't have any wire at home so it wasn't functional, but it gave me a feel for the layout. When I had some free time at work the next day I drew up a layout in AutoCAD and printed it fullsize. After hours at work I quickly whipped up a little box, drilled holes, mounted my equipment, and wired it all up. When I got home the software part of the setup was easy (as far as the controller went) and I started playing.
Having a friend from out of town staying with me, I realized that now that I was sure I liked having arcade controls I needed to make a 2 player CP... but most of the time I would be playing alone, and usually with the controls sitting on my lap. I had to make a seperate cp for player 2.
This is where I am. A 1 player cp with grand plans (not really grand, just new (I think)) I am going to use DB25 connectors on the two control boxes and set it up so I can either connect them by clipping them together with the connectors mating or use a m-f DB25 cable to connect the units for use with the cp on the players laps. This way I can use some more of the (plentiful) inputs on my GPwiz for player 2 and not have to buy another interface. This solution also avoids wasting anything when I move all the parts into an upright cabinet.
Here are the pictures of where I am now. I also have a thread in the artwork forum for my 2-part cp art if anybody is interested in helping. http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=63792.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=63792.0)
(http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t100/bfauska/DorkStickfromAbove.jpg)
(http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t100/bfauska/DorkStick1.jpg)
This is what the wiring job looked like for the initial test run.
(http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t100/bfauska/InsidetheDorkStick.jpg)
And this is after cleaning it up.
(http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t100/bfauska/CleanedupDorkStick.jpg)
Thanks for looking, feel free to comment (good or bad) I love praise almost as much as a good fight ;)
Later,
Brian
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Somehow, I'm mesmerized by your box and its fitting title. :cheers:
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I am oddly inspired by your box... ;D
Did your Gpwiz come with all the cabling or did you buy a harness from ggg?
(Unless you just tore apart an old IDE cable.)
What's that piece you made to connect the leads between the switches and the GPwi?
(from radio shack?)
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What's that piece you made to connect the leads between the switches and the GPwi?
(from radio shack?)
That's exactly what I want to know....something like that would significantly clean up the cabling in my box...which currently looks a lot like the bottom of my closet.
What is that thing?!
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What are those? Seriously?
Here in Europe, at least, they're just the usual stuff like the scart connectors... Anyway, we call them sugar bits, obviously because of their shape, but still they're just a kind of connection strip where you screw your leads in place...
Here's a (local (FI)) link, but I'm pretty sure you'll be able to buy them anywhere nowadays ;)
http://www.servcat.com/catalog.asp?product=95-9029 (http://www.servcat.com/catalog.asp?product=95-9029)
They're available for all the common wire diameters. Just ask for the euro connectors or the euro connection strips ..or, well sugar bit connectors...
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The ide cable is a hacked up ide cable. The white thing connecting the IDE cable and the buttons is called a terminal strip. Oddly, as psychotech just pointed out they are more common in Europe than in the states. I have used them in the pro audio world several times. If you cant tell from the picture they are basically a bunch of steel tubes with a set-screw in each end so that you can slip in
the cable and tighten it in place with the screw. They are grouped together into an insulator so that their is no contact between the seperate channels. They were a little tricky to use with the ribbon cable because of it's little wire, but I made it work by stripping about 1/2" of the wire and then twisting it back onto itself (over the remaining shield) so that when I screwed it in I was clamping a thicker wire.
BUT here's the cool part... I ordered them from GGG when I ordered my other equipment.
Here they are:
http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69&products_id=201 (http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=69&products_id=201)
On an update note:
I just recieved the parts for the second box and will probably construct it sometime this week.
Later,
Brian
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Thanks,
You using "Joytokey" to send your keypresses?
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I haven't had to use Joy2key yet, not because I have a keyboard on my laptop, but because the only things I couldn't control with a joystick so far are AtomicFE and Nestopia. In Nestopia I can use a Joystick, but I am limited to 20 (i think) buttons, this is only a problem for 2 player games, and even then I think that I can configure it so that it works, I just need to map the buttons right. I am trying to avoid any extra software, and would love to use AtomicFE so I may try to persuade them to incorporate native JS compatibility.
I am currently working on the box for player 2, my plans have stepped down on the "cool factor" a little, but I think that I should still be able to connect them in an effective way.
Later,
Brian
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WELL,
I "Add-a-player"ized my cp. I was going to have them hook together with the connectors directly and have the cable be optional. Well after giving it some thought, I decided that the panel would be too small for 2 players to use comfortably, so I made the connection require the cable.
I had to totally jumble up my wiring job to get it to work with the wires I had, so I am not too proud of the wiring, but it functions. I also haven't mounted the connector on the player 1 box either, but I will eventually.
Here are the pics.
This is the two boxes hooked together and ready to play
(http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t100/bfauska/IMG_0502.jpg)
This is the new messy wiring job in box 1
(http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t100/bfauska/IMG_0503.jpg)
This is the inside of box 2, I skipped the hinge on this one and I think I like the look when it is closed better because of it.
(http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t100/bfauska/IMG_0504.jpg)
I still need to come up with some art for an overlay, but by the time I do that I may have my guest-room/theater back and then maybe I'll just build an upright.
Later,
Brian
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I got tired of the MDF/no artwork version of my controls so.....
Introducing version 2.0 :woot
(http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t100/bfauska/IMG_0506.jpg)
The top is 3/8" Plexiglas back-painted red. It's hard to tell from the photos but the top's perfectly flush (it looks like the wood is higher because of the plexi thickness.) The access to the 4/8-way switching is accomplished by removing the back (not bottom) of the box and sliding out the plexi (I am looking at ways to change this but I don't want a hole in the bottom of the box.)
(http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t100/bfauska/IMG_0505.jpg)
The finished box is player 2. I finished it first because it had fewer parts. I am not sure of the paint I want for player 1 (player 2 is less orange in real life.) I may leave it clear, but that would mean cleaning up the wiring (probably soldering) which I may do anyway.
(http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t100/bfauska/IMG_0507.jpg)
I had originally planned on reusing the parts for my full size cab, but now I wonder if I could sell these finished products when I am ready for the cab and use that money for my new parts. I think that the finished product is worth more than the sum of it's parts (at least the parts I paid for.) I think that this would be the best outcome since I think these are too nice to end up in the garbage when I am done. At the very least maybe I'll post the boxes (empty) for free in the BST when I move on to a cabinet.
Thanks for looking, as allways I would love feedback.
L8R,
Brian
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Very nice!
The only thing you need is black carriage bolts.
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They're countersunk screws, but I do agree that black would be better. I also think that polishing the little bit of countersink that shows would be good. I didn't like the idea of the heads sticking up so the countersink gets them flush. I didn't like the look of philips or slotted screws (wow, that would be asking for trouble slotted screws with a plexiglas cp) so I went with square drive. I think they look cleaner than the other options. The only other head I think I would like is spanner, it's the security head with only two little holes.
L8R,
B
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Thats really neat.
Where'd you get the 3/8" plexi?
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I work in theatre and plexiglas is frequently used in scenery, so we had some sitting around. Too much actually we were about to toss it out. I also had some 1/2" from my dad that I sort of traded with my shop for the 3/8". I can't remember who our primary supplier is, but I know that sometimes we use TAP plastics.
I don't know if anybody is curious but, to cut my holes I used the old mdf cp as a template and used a flush-cut router bit to cut the plexiglas. I also ran a rabbit around the outter edge that goes into the dado in the pine. I did that on the table saw. The little latches that hold the back panel on work great and when the panel is all closed up you can't see any fasteners except the ones on the Joystick. I am really happy with the outcome on these and that is not normal for me. I usually only see the flaws in my projects.
L8R,
B
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I don't know if anybody is curious but, to cut my holes I used the old mdf cp as a template and used a flush-cut router bit to cut the plexiglas.
Thats the way to do it. good job.
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really nice job on those controllers. i made one for my xbox 360 and it is so much more fun to play arcade games now. enjoy!!
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Wow - excellent job on those things. They look great and you clearly have some skills around the shop. :cheers:
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your original looks way better than my "nerd stick".
The new ones are excellent!
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Thanks for all the compliments guys, I have had more than a little practice in a shop and with odd materials. I have been working on theatre and movie sets and museum type displays since college, and theatre is what I went to college for (building and designing, not acting.) The people who really impress me are the folks who do totally unrelated things professionally and only touch tools as a hobby. When I worked at a high school in the theatre department trying to teach "non-tool" people how to use tools was about the hardest part of the job. People who can learn to use tools as just a hobby and make a good product are rare, but apparently most of them have projects here. So much good work :applaud: for us all. :cheers:
Thanks again,
Brian
Edited for spelling
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Hey nice work, Brian! I thought you were in an apartment? Where you got room for all dem tools?
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I do live in an apartment... and work in an office, but this is the view out of my office window
(http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t100/bfauska/shopfloor002.jpg)
(http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t100/bfauska/shopfloor003.jpg)
That's the shop floor at the Theatre I work at, and I can play down there in nonworking hours.
That doesn't include the part of the shop directly below my office where we do all the welding, electronics, hydraulics, and pneumatics.
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Aha! Very nice job perk.
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DAMN :banghead: :angry: :hissy:
I started painting the clear cp last night. My wife was hoping that I would make this one pink but I didn't want a red one and a pink one so I decided that black with pink graphics was a good idea. So... I printed out a copy of my old art but with a Ms. Dorkstick label instead of a Dorkstick label. Then I taped off the whole piece of plexi and carefully cut out the shape of the graphic so I could remove all the non-art and paint black then peel off the art and paint the pink. I have done similar with radio controlled car bodies in my youth. I applied the first coat of paint last night before leaving work and when I looked at it this morning there were spots of clear still around all the tape. So... I went downstairs afterwork today and added a 2nd coat of black paint, and went to dinner. When I got back I discovered that the second coat of paint had totally bubbled and ruined the first coat. I think this is because any time somebody posts a question about painting the back side of plexi I respond that it's the easiest thing in the world, no problems, looks great every time. I AM A BIG FAT LIAR, you can screw it up, I am not sure what went wrong, but I think that I grabbed a different can of spray paint today for the 2nd coat and it had some effed up reaction with the first coat. Knowing that whatever I did to remove the paint was also going to remove the masking, I removed the masking first to see what it would have looked like. POOP, that's what it was going to look like. I should have had the graphics cut out of vinyl. Anyway here is the pic of the bubbled paint, and what would have been the graphics.
(http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t100/bfauska/cp1003.jpg)
THEN... when I went to remove the paint, the stripper (not the kind with money their G-string, the paint stripper) totally jacked up the plexi. :angry: :timebomb: :hissy: :censored:
Oh, well. So be it. I guess I'll have a frosted CP. I sanded the CP down and after several passes I have a frosted plexi CP.
(http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t100/bfauska/cp1004.jpg)
ISSSALLLRIGHT, I got my cabinet the other day so really this was just me trying to finish up an unfinished project. I am not even sure if these will live any longer I may strip out all the hardware to use in the cabinet. Unless somebody wants to buy the pair of them for the price of replacement hardware. I'll have to think about a good price and then add it to the BST section. Anybody think I should charge something different than the retail price of the buttons, joysticks, and controller? I didn't pay for any other materials, but there is definitely some time involved.
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Great shop. I guess you don't have to worry about toxic smells and/or overspray. Good recovery on the second coat mess-up. Regarding selling your controllers, I'd just give them to your brother, or a neighbor. If you try to sell them, you will get miffed when you get only $0.78 cents per hour for your labor.
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You can't see it in either of the pictures but we even have an OSHA approved spray booth.
As far a selling them goes, I am really interested in getting enough money to buy slightly different versions of the components I made these out of. Sort of like a trade up kind of thing. I get parts, make them into something usefull and then sell it so I can buy parts that are a little cooler. I need to research the price for my next setup and see if that seems like a reasonable price. I may even consider replacing the frosted plexi with a matching red one like player 2 has if it would help these sell.
Thanks for the compliment on the recovery, I actually think that it could look really cool this way with some LEDs inside, I may try it just to play around.
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That's a great looking arcade stick. I actually think the frosted plexi looks better than the artwork you originally planned... it's like modern style or something. One suggestion - take out the 4 screws that are holding the joystick in place and spray them black or better yet use four of THESE (http://www.rockler.com/ecom7/product_details.cfm?offerings_id=306&cookietest=1) (they come in black and cost about $.05 each at Home Depot).
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I will probably go black with the screws. I like that they are flush with the surface now, and adding the caps would make them into little bumps, so paint is probably the way to go.
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Yo B,
Looks like you put a little "comfort design" effort into your button layout. What center offsets did you use? Looks like around 1/4"-1/2" up between 1 and 2, then maybe 1/8"-1/4" back down between 2 and 3? I'm doing something similar on mine and am being all Visio-anal about it while I'm at work. (You probably just eye-balled, right?) :)
Thanks,
Chris
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Eyeball, shmyball.
I used CAD and they are based on a radius. I made some PDFs of the layout if you want them. The first one is just the buttons full size on a 8-1/2x11" paper, if you print it 100% not scaled to fit the page it should work perfectly for a template. The second one is dimensions if you want to use it as reference for you layout, it will also print right at full size, but takes 11x17 paper. The two rows of buttons are not concentric arcs, one is a copy of the other offset by the shown amount, they both have a 6" radius arc.
Don't know if it helps or not, but at least now I have an answer and post to point people to when the allways popular button placement questions come up.
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Ok, that's way more thought than I would have expected anyone to have put into this. ;D
So this begs the question - why a 6" diameter? Is that the distance from your wrist joint to your finger tips or something? And for that matter, why a circle to begin with?
Thanks for posting the files.
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Wrist to fingertips with arched fingers ;D
I was doing it in cad anyway, I draft as a major part of my job so it didn't take anymore time to do that then doing anything else, short of just picking some totally arbitrary spacing. The dimensions and stuff weren't done until I made the PDF this morning, I just printed full size, taped it to my wood, centerpunched and drilled.
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short of just picking some totally arbitrary spacing
Hey, I resemble that statement! I have a feeling my layout's pretty close to yours, though. I'm on test panel #3 right now - hopefully nearing a final...
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Awesome. Thanks for posting the layouts - if I ever build a 6 button CP I'm definitely using this. :cheers:
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I REALLY like the frosted look. It is neat to get just a peek of the internals to get you interested.
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Awesome. Thanks for posting the layouts - if I ever build a 6 button CP I'm definitely using this. :cheers:
Thanks, I posted it hoping it could be helpful and I will be flattered to hear anybody uses it.
I REALLY like the frosted look. It is neat to get just a peek of the internals to get you interested.
Yeah, the look is growing on me, I'm just concerned about the dourability. It will hold dirt fairly well because it is rough, and in spite of it being basically covered in scratches (frosted with a sander) it will show new scratches fairly well (experience during the sanding process.)
I am really considering putting some LEDs in to see what that does, it may mean I have to treat the inside of the box for a more or less reflective/diffuse surface, but it could still be fun to play.
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I am really considering putting some LEDs in to see what that does, it may mean I have to treat the inside of the box for a more or less reflective/diffuse surface, but it could still be fun to play.
lol
since led lights came out i wanna put em in everything :D
ive been thinking lots about a quick connect system for cps recently, did it occur to use anything 'job' related at all.
the possibility of rack mounted stuff becomes a possibility then.
5 pin dmx for example, i know thats only 5 core but yknow theres loads of other types of connectors, just thinking cos of their durability.
easy to make multicores up if you get me
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ive been thinking lots about a quick connect system for cps recently, did it occur to use anything 'job' related at all.
the possibility of rack mounted stuff becomes a possibility then.
5 pin dmx for example, i know thats only 5 core but yknow theres loads of other types of connectors, just thinking cos of their durability.
easy to make multicores up if you get me
I just received a catalog from Digi-Key and the first section is nothing by all kinds of connectors. 400 pages :o Plenty to choose from anything from the standard molex to edge connectors to chip sockets.
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cheers kaytrim
ill be coming back to you for some recommendations as im not sure of my requirements yet.
i shouldve explained in my post ,me and bafuska are kinda in the same industry so i was asking for his thoughts on some stuff we use in work, but again cheers as i'm not set on what ill use.
ta
polaris
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I actually found the DB25 at work. It was used on an old custom made piece of scenery automation. We tend to use whatever is readily available for all of our automation connections. I did look at some of our MIL style connectors, but they screw together and that seems excessive and time consuming. If I changed them out I think I would change to a DB15 I use 13 conductors out of the 25 right now and running a 5v would put me at 14. The price of DB15 connectors at Mouser (http://www.Mouser.com) is not too bad.
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If I solder all those wires to clean up the rats nest that's in there now, do you think I will loose some of the sale price?
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You probably won't loose any, but you probably won't gain any either. I doubt whoever buys it will look inside. I'd leave it as is and move on.
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If I solder all those wires to clean up the rats nest that's in there now, do you think I will loose some of the sale price?
say its a NASA prototype and charge double
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I cleaned it up w/o soldering. I used the ex-Jamma harness that was in my cab when I picked it up, so now the wires are not as bulky and they are colored which helps with the process. I am going to redo the wire to the 2nd player panel with a 15pin I got for $1 at a PC recycling place and it will all look much cleaner, this way wether or not I sell them I can be pleased with the finished craftsmanship (mostly.) I post some pics of the cleaned up pair when I finish.
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I think I'm done with these. :applaud:
I've rewired them so that it is cleaner and the button/joystick assignment is about as logical as I can get it. Player 2 is buttons 1-4 for the joystick 5-10 for the buttons and then coins 1 and 2 are 13 &14, P2 and P1 start are 15 & 16 and then player 1 buttons are 17-22. The order seems odd but because I want to play Nestopia I had to put P2 low enough that it wouldn't get cut off, and wiring the IDE header made sense this way. The GPwiz is held in place by the USB cable which is tightly wedged into a cut out on the back piece of the CP frame.
(http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t100/bfauska/IMG_0512.jpg)
I found a 15 pin DB extension cable and a 15 pin DB header for the back of a computer case at a PC recycling place, which I cut up to make a nice clean connection from P1 to P2.
(http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t100/bfauska/IMG_0513.jpg)
Here is a picture of the pair of controllers ready to play some Daraku Tenshi.
(http://i158.photobucket.com/albums/t100/bfauska/IMG_0514.jpg)
I am pleased with the finished product. If anything I wish that they had the same style of finish, but I think that this is a good example of two different finishing options. With a tablesaw and a router I could set up to make these thing fairly quickly, which could be an interesting way to make a few bucks if anybody thinks they are worth anything.
I have definitely enjoyed the process even with the difficulties and errors. After starting off thinking that these parts would go into my cabinet when I got it, I have come to a point where rather than take these apart and toss out the boxes I would rather sell them and buy new components. It's a funny place for ME to end up, working in professional theatre I constantly work on projects with a life expectancy of less than 2 months. MOST things I work on end up in the dumpster shortly after they are finished, but I don't want to toss these out. There are places where the craftsmanship is a little lower than I would like, but considering I was treating these as prototypes I think overall they are great. Now I guess it's time to dive into my cabinet, but I can't take it to work nearly as easily, and I definitely don't have a useful shop here, I see a very drawn out process in the works. Hopefully I'll be able to work on small parts and transport them back and forth.
Thanks for reading, consider the floor open for questions and comments. ;D
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I want one. I am inspired to make a panel using thick plexi as the cp top now.
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Go for it, I think you will be pleased with the results.
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Awesome, man! Now I want to cruise over and try them out to see if your button layout would work for me. ;D
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What are those brass looking pins in the corners? A clip of some sort?
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Hey Brian, I tried the button layout you so graciously shared. I like the closer feel of them, however, they were a bit of pain to install, being so tight. I actually had to flip over every other button nut in order to get them all to screw down all the way. Were you able to rig some easier way? Thanks
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The brass you see in the pictures is what holds the back part of the box on, it allows me to pop it off to switch the joy from 4 to 8 way. They are a Brass ball catch from Rockler.com (http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=144)
(http://images.rockler.com/rockler/images/28613-01-200.jpg)
My buttons are a tight fit, but I didn't have to flip the nuts or anything, I wonder if the printout was full scale. Did the hole size in the drawing come out at 1 1/8" ? My nuts just barely touch.......... um you know what I mean.
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I think it came out a little smaller than that, so that's probably the issue. I'll take another look... thanks.
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Hey, I finally got a chance to reprint your layout at the correct scale and try it out. I like it and am going to use it! Let me know where to send the royalty checks. ;)
Thanks a lot,
Chris
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Glad you liked it. I figure if I charged royalties nobody would be able to afford them, that's how much I'm worth... oh, no wait, um... how about if it turns out nice you let me check it out sometime, you are one of the Seattle area folks right? Are you doing a thread about your build? I'd like to see what you're up to.
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Sounds like a deal! And yes, I'm in Bothell. My first cab is a conversion, which I didn't think anyone would be all that interested in, so I never started a thread. I'm still considering doing one when I finish, though... we'll see.
:cheers:
Chris
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What's the bolt hole spacing on that Suzo stick? I'm considering the mounting plates over at GGG and they use the Suzo pattern. Are they the std 2.6" x 3"?
Coleman
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I don't have any batteries for my calipers, but just using a ruler your measurements look right. I have swapped them with my (I think) wico microswitch joysticks using the same holes before. If you need a definitive answer though, you could ask RandyT, he's a regular on the forum and the owner of GGG, where I purchased these sticks.
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I am making some plans in AutoCAD for a slight variation on these sticks. I have changed the top panel to be 2 parts which makes building easier and when combined with the slightly reduced footprint allows the use of 8"x10" artwork (from a printer or photo lab) between the MDF layer and the Plexiglas. The plexiglas is held down with the buttons and recessed into the frame to be flush with the top of the box, it's drawn as 1/4" plex so it wouldn't be a problem that it's only held by the buttons, but I'd bet it could be changed to work with 1/8" plex too. I've also drawn it with a round-over on the outside top edges.
I have the whole thing modeled in AutoCAD and just need to make some workable dimensioned plans and print them out to PDF. I don't need to make one of these new versions for myself since I have the original and two upright cabinets now, but I may make one anyway just to see how the new design works out. If anybody wants one built I think I could do it for about $30ish empty.
Here's a rendering of the new design:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=51525.0;attach=85852)
Plans to follow this weekend or early next week.
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nice design bfauska.
A really neat solution to play mame without a full cab.
PS: I love your workshop!
Jay
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I don't know how I missed this thread, nice work! I'm currently making some Xbox 360 sticks which will work with Mame too. I like these sticks, they enable me to realize cab ideas on a much smaller scale hehe. They're also cool to add a third person to a 2 player cab or second player to a bartop.
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Plans for a variation of these CP boxes can now be found here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=72097.0). I will be adding some build directions soon.
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Plans for a variation of these CP boxes can now be found here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=72097.0). I will be adding some build directions soon.
nice one brian, ill be making something like this for sure, handy to have no brainer directions, for the design challenged like me. :cheers:
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Plans for a variation of these CP boxes can now be found here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=72097.0). I will be adding some build directions soon.
sweet, I'll be looking forward to them
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Plans for a variation of these CP boxes can now be found here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=72097.0). I will be adding some build directions soon.
I may have been too vague in that post. The word "here" in the post above was a link to [urlhttp://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=72097.0]this thread[/url](also a link).
I have just completed the directions portion of that thread as well. Hopefully somebody will find it useful.
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Thanks for spending the time to document. I'm sure more than one person will benefit from your efforts.