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I found this:

https://www.arcadeadventures.com/turbo-throttle-assembly/



Or Hack something like This:

https://www.amazon.com/Thrustmaster-T-Flight-Hotas-Compatible-PlayStation-3/dp/B09JL2GLJ9/ref=sr_1_6?crid=M9PHOR823IM7&dib=eyJ2IjoiMSJ9.96T2OVY2ABf4l55DgSStZm8RHX5lOri5Dq51Uz6tg8urxDjZjdpJMoxJ--yx8YG4eRIHVb067UugI0QTWJ7RL9Kkc5O9Iaw83mzz07EVz1_SKg7xCC3cUAgZXHVIOPrvQR4w9Dj4BnLhP6VB2f7yhxyGa8cJpZVeIIVJCG4YWOsTqEC-rFU5imwTuzPQGk1NPzsv5MS0Og4CWifH_qbzjOra-UmG6Tdbv8hPX-Ns-Og.IFp1OxA9vE3EdWw64_OI784rLJJaCGrOyUOyD1oEXDo&dib_tag=se&keywords=Thrustmaster+T-Flight+HOTAS+X&qid=1789144966&sprefix=thrustmaster+t-flight+hotas+x%2Caps%2C240&sr=8-6


An analog Throttle is just basically an Analog Joystick, that is limited to vertical movement.   It basically uses the same exact mechanism + pot (encoder).

It would be pretty easy to make any dirt cheap analog joystick into a Throttle.  Just unscrew the plastic handle on it, and craft your own custom handle out of wood.

The Only thing to note... is that not all games may have used the Throttle the same way.   Afterburner II 's  throttle is Center-Sprung.
Meaning... if you push up or down, then release the handle.. it will return to the center.

Not sure about other Arcade games that use an analog Throttle.

Of course, if you only needed a Single-Sprung throttle  (gas pedal)... then you could use racing pedals, and wire them up to your bartop.
Afterburner II probably would not work well with a single sprung pedal... as it would always be locked in either Full High Speed, or Full Low Speed.

I hope to release 289 till the end of week.

Thank you, great info. I believe it is the TKG-4 board set. I will verify this weekend. I looked over at brasington.org site and none of the sample images there match what I have going on. I will get pictures posted over the weekend.

Newly updated in V3.0.126!

- Reworked phone remote album art rendering.
- Options menu can now be opened from inside the jukebox instead of only via the sign-in screen (user request fulfilled!)
- In order to accommodate the above we've updated the options menu layout and created a specific options page with tiles similar to the other pages within the app
- Some minor improvements to the internet radio search functionality.

Hey mate! Nice to see you here javeryh. Yes, I got a bit inspired by the good work being done both on GroovyMame and GreenAntz.  I wanted to do a complete overhaul/rebuild not just of the cabinet but of the software side of things. So, the build is based on Windows 10 with all recommended options. Also going with the FE Attract-Mode-Plus because it's ideally suited to a 240x320 CRT vertical layout, actually looks rock solid and clean.   At the end of the day I just like sitting down and playing some games on a real CRT.  I did a bunch of tests with logging turned up the other day and games run smooth (around 99%+ speed), clean and at the right frequencies etc.

I'll post more detailed hardware/software build and configuration details later on. This project is more than just the build aesthetics, it is also genuinely about the enjoyment of playing the games as they originally looked on screen.

OND! Glad to see this project come back. Hope all is well. 

I'm thinking of converting one of my small bar top cabinets into a dedicated flight stick cab. The UltraStik 360FS Flight Stick seems to be the way to go for an analogue stick. But many MAME games that use a flight stick also use an analogue throttle. Are there any such products out there for DIY arcade cabinets?

Hi Calamity

I've changed the option in mame.ini and now everything is ok.
I had this option set in switchres.ini.

# Physical aspect ratio of the target monitor. Used to compensate aspect ratio when the target monitor is not 4:3
   aspect                    4:3

So didn't care about changing it in mame.ini too.

Thanks!

The first batch of pre-ordered GreenAntz v2.3 will have arrived for most, or be arriving soon.

CX456 has pointed out that I made an error with the coloured RCA Y-Pb-Pr output. I have got two of the coloured tabs back-to-front, such that Y (green) and Pr (red) are swapped.

   AFAIK this has affected the entire first batch. My apologies   

I feel devastated of course. Even so, this is a purely cosmetic error. It does not affect the normal operation of the GreenAntz at all.

How did this happen? The triple RGB RCA gang comes with the colours like that, I forgot to swap them around. Why didn't I notice a "obvious" thing like that? Probably because I am red-green colour-blind, which I have mentioned before. Not exactly "blind", but this is the kind of thing I might not notice unless I look specifically & closely. It didn't become apparent during testing, as has no practical affect.

In other news, I have used steel screws with these enclosures. I wanted to use transparent nylon screws here but they have slightly taller heads, and the inset for the head is not large enough. The nylon screws stick out by about 0.5mm. So I used steel instead, smaller head. A warning though, If you are going to open the enclosures up, that it is easy to accidentally strip the plastic thread when re-tightening with steel screws. To avoid this, stop screwing as soon as the screw head is fully inset.

Please let us know how it goes in your setup, I hope all is well. Apologies again about the red/green mixup.

Hi ronbin,

In mame.ini, look for the option "aspect auto" and replace it with "aspect 4:3". This is required since your desktop resolution is 1280x480 and MAME wrongly assumes your screen isn't 4:3 because of that.

OND! Glad to see this project come back. Hope all is well.