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Started by bimm25e - Last post by bimm25e

Started by NateFromTheInternet - Last post by nipsmg

How much was the cork if you don't mind me asking (I'm assuming you mean Bangor, not Bangalore)?

I'm thinking of re-corking my machine.


Started by Sjaak - Last post by retroworld2k

Yes, same for me. Would be happy to get a new version.
Thx

Started by Kid Raster - Last post by PL1

I'm running MAME32Plus! 0.105.  Should I be using a different emulator for Pole Position?
That's a REALLY ancient version of MAME.

You might want a more recent version, especially if changing the shifter output to a gamepad button doesn't work for you.

https://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,161022.0.html

I have the opti-pac working (I think, because I can move the mouse pointer left and right on the windows desktop with the steering wheel) but it doesn't seem to steer the car in-game.  :dunno
Windows recognizes the steering wheel as mouse X-axis.  That is good.

I also followed your instructions on wiring the pedal with the U-hid nano, and it seems to work, but for whatever reason, when I press the pedal, the car rotates left/right (what the wheel should be doing).
Mame accepts analog input from the pedal.  That is good, but you might want to consider changing the U-HID configuration for that input from X-axis (left/right) to Y-axis. (up/down)

So, I'm guessing there is just some sort of setup in MAME that I am missing.  I'm running MAME32Plus! 0.105.
1.) Do you already have mame.ini in your installation?
- if not, you'll need to launch mame one time with the "-cc" (create config) software switch to create a mame.ini file. (i.e. "mame.exe -cc")

2.) Edit mame.ini using notepad.
- Under "CORE INPUT OPTIONS", you want both mouse and joystick to be enabled (1) not disabled. (0)
- Save file and exit.

Code: [Select]
#
# CORE INPUT OPTIONS
#
coin_lockout              1
ctrlr                     
mouse                     1
joystick                  1
lightgun                  0

3.) Map the controls in MAME.
- Start Pole Position in MAME.
- Hit TAB to bring up the MAME menu system.
- Go to the "Inputs (this Game)" menu.

- Highlight "P1 Pedal 1 Analog".
- Press ENTER. (Tells MAME to remap this input)
- Step on the pedal. (MAME should see the change and map the pedal to this input)

- Highlight "P1 Pedal 1 Analog DEC". (The DEC and INC inputs are used to generate fake analog/mouse inputs using button presses -- you've got real analog and mouse inputs so you don't want these inputs active)
- Press ENTER.
- Press ESC. (MAME should map this input to "none")  NOTE: In some releases of MAME, you'll need to press DELETE to set the input to "none".

- Highlight "P1 Pedal 1 Analog INC".
- Press ENTER.
- Press ESC. (MAME should map this input to "none")

- Highlight "Dial Analog".
- Press ENTER.
- Turn the steering wheel. (MAME should see the change and map the steering wheel to this input)

- Highlight "Dial Analog DEC".
- Press ENTER.
- Press ESC. (MAME should map this input to "none")

- Highlight "Dial Analog INC".
- Press ENTER.
- Press ESC. (MAME should map this input to "none")

That should get you pretty close to running right, other than configuring the shifter as a gamepad button and remapping that input in MAME. (see link at the beginning of the post)


Scott

Started by Kid Raster - Last post by Kid Raster

Scott thanks a lot for your help here.  So I have an update-

I have the opti-pac working (I think, because I can move the mouse pointer left and right on the windows desktop with the steering wheel) but it doesn't seem to steer the car in-game.  :dunno
I also followed your instructions on wiring the pedal with the U-hid nano, and it seems to work, but for whatever reason, when I press the pedal, the car rotates left/right (what the wheel should be doing).

So, I'm guessing there is just some sort of setup in MAME that I am missing.  I'm running MAME32Plus! 0.105.  Should I be using a different emulator for Pole Position?

I appreciate your help so far.  I was completely lost before.

Started by Kid Raster - Last post by PL1

I was almost positive I have seen this achieved with only a U-hid nano (which is what convinced me to buy one) because of the Quadrature capability- but maybe it was a dream- I dunno.  :dunno
The original optical board won't work with the U-HID because the logic high/low voltage levels are different for active high devices vs. active low devices.

IIRC someone changed out an active high original optical board for a Happ Red Board (active low device) to interface the controls with just a U-HID Nano.

https://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,166213.msg1752485.html#msg1752485

https://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,160573.0.html

Steering is fixed now via OptiPac- very cool, thanks for that!
Now I have the shifter and coin working with the U-hid nano, but I can't figure out where the pedal needs to go.  Here is a picture of what I am working with, if someone could point me in the right direction on where to connect these to the U-hid nano I would be eternally grateful!   :cheers:
That pic shows J25.  Pin 1 is on the left.

Pin 1 (green) - Ground (Frame ground)
Pin 2 (red) - 5v from U-HID (Potentiometer 5v)
Pin 3 (black) - Ground from U-HID (Potentiometer ground)
Pin 5 (green) - Wiper (Potentiometer center tab) to analog input on U-HID

https://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/P/Pole_Position_SP218_2nd_Printing_Sheet_2ab.pdf


Scott

Started by Kid Raster - Last post by Kid Raster

Steering is fixed now via OptiPac- very cool, thanks for that!
Now I have the shifter and coin working with the U-hid nano, but I can't figure out where the pedal needs to go.  Here is a picture of what I am working with, if someone could point me in the right direction on where to connect these to the U-hid nano I would be eternally grateful!   :cheers:

Started by bimm25e - Last post by lilshawn

should probably check your part number in your schematics part list to see if its a straight taper pot or a log taper pot or audio taper pot (which you typically need for audio circuits.)

and also to double-check the value against the part number... 100 ohms is an odd value and not typically available in audio taper for audio use... and BARELY in log taper. which means it could be straight taper, or its wrong on the schematic. (not unheard of)

Started by NateFromTheInternet - Last post by NateFromTheInternet

Some progress.  I'm filming everything to do a build video so I'm bad at taking the photos but here's one.  TV cabinet added to the top, base color of paint added, cork (from Bangor) currently being glued down!

Started by zeorangr - Last post by pbj

My god, man.   :dizzy:

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