The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Woodworking => Topic started by: bimm25e on July 27, 2017, 03:08:10 pm
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So I had a metal control panel on a dynamo hs-5 that I added 1 button to and it was AWFUL!
lucky me, I had a friend from out of town make and ship me a couple control panels with no holes in them for my new Atari Showcase (gauntlet legends) but like the title says, they are 14 gauge Stainless Steel. If anyone has any suggestions on getting 1 1/8" holes through them cheap in an apartment with no garage I'd appreciate it :D
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metal hole punch
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^this.
Cleanest way for a fellow apartment dweller. :lol
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Ordered a greenlee 730 1.1/8 punch, a 1/2 inch cobalt drill bit and some milling oil. Plan is to get the starter holes drilled with the oil and 1/2 " bit then clamp on with the punch.
If anyone has any suggestions I am listening
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I'd suggest you get a 1" punch as well, and test on a scrap piece. Punches are for conduit plates and things of that ilk and the measurements arent always 100% DOB.
The punches I have (...........or had, haven't seen them in a while) used a 1/8" bit for a tap. Definitely post the results.
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A bi metal hole saw, and a good quality drill.... Do it on cardboard so you clean the mess completly when your done. The metal bits hurt like fire if you get a sliver in your bare feet.
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Holes that size in 14g stainless? Good luck! Please, let us know how it goes.
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So I had a metal control panel on a dynamo hs-5 that I added 1 button to and it was AWFUL!
lucky me, I had a friend from out of town make and ship me a couple control panels with no holes in them for my new Atari Showcase (gauntlet legends) but like the title says, they are 14 gauge Stainless Steel. If anyone has any suggestions on getting 1 1/8" holes through them cheap in an apartment with no garage I'd appreciate it :D
I would think that only way you're going to get a smooth, machined look to it... is either take it to someone who does CNC protyping or... maybe... a drill press with a very special high RPM heavy steel cutting hole saw, potentially with a water trickle going.
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So I had a metal control panel on a dynamo hs-5 that I added 1 button to and it was AWFUL!
lucky me, I had a friend from out of town make and ship me a couple control panels with no holes in them for my new Atari Showcase (gauntlet legends) but like the title says, they are 14 gauge Stainless Steel. If anyone has any suggestions on getting 1 1/8" holes through them cheap in an apartment with no garage I'd appreciate it :D
I would think that only way you're going to get a smooth, machined look to it... is either take it to someone who does CNC protyping or... maybe... a drill press with a very special high RPM heavy steel cutting hole saw, potentially with a water trickle going.
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What?, Like the machine shed at NASA?.... Dude, a bimetal holesaw and a center bit, on the kitchen table. It will fight a little just before it goes through, so maybe a drop of cutting oil, clean the slag off the backside with a semi round file or a dremel.
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A hole punch like the one he got will give him the cleanest results.
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Stainless as compared to mild steel has a higher nickel content making it considerably more hard and brittle. (Malenko has it right that's more of a production punch for conduit) And notice its only for up to 14 gauge MILD steel in the specs https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-730BB-1-1-Standard-Knockout-8-Inch/dp/B002NQWZU2 (https://www.amazon.com/Greenlee-730BB-1-1-Standard-Knockout-8-Inch/dp/B002NQWZU2) As for cleaner holes that would be up for discussion, the top will rollover before it shears, kinda like a punch press Cutting though with a saw doesn't do that it cuts flat. And futhermore a hole saw is about 1/4 the price.... But whatever, Jennifer digresses.
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Well the 1/2 Cobalt drill bit works but it pretty much takes a full battery charge to get one hole through, the milling oil is good stuff though its impressive how cool it keeps the surface, and the cobalt bit doesn't seem to be getting any duller after the first 3 holes.
The punch- very cool little piece of equipment, Jennifer is right, it put a very slight lip on the holes but they did sheer very cleanly otherwise, no burrs or razor sharp edges leftover which i appreciate. The lip is super negligible and the button's rim covers it completely with a lot of room to spare. The 1.1/8" punch is the perfect size for HAPP buttons, there is maybe 1-2 mm of play but tightening the "button-nut" locks them in nicely.
My only gripe about the punch is that I am using a 8" crescent wrench with it and I am just barely able to crank it with all of my strength/body weight (230lbs!) I am going to go buy some conduit to extend the wrench handle and i feel like it will be smooth sailing afterwards.
besides a bigger wrench for the die, the most annoying part is drilling that 1/2" starter hole. There is room for improvement there I think - I just don't know what the right tool would be.
and Jennifer, my old man keeps recommending a (bi-metal)hole saw too, he does engineering stuff at his job so I trust his advice, if i hadn't already ordered the punch I would have probably gone that route.
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You seriously need a drill that plugs into the wall if you are going to be drilling holes in steel. You are going to melt down that poor screw shooter.
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You seriously need a drill that plugs into the wall if you are going to be drilling holes in steel. You are going to melt down that poor screw shooter.
You are not wrong, if i had a corded drill I'd be using it. I'm out of town till tomorrow but I was thinking about craigslisting a used corded drill, or do you think i should go impact wrench since I'm gonna have to buy something? OR if anyone in cleveland with the appropriate hardwarte wants to come over and play some pinball and have a couple beers I am always happy to meet fellow enthusiasts :D
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The punch- very cool little piece of equipment, Jennifer is right, it put a very slight lip on the holes but they did sheer very cleanly otherwise, no burrs or razor sharp edges leftover which i appreciate. The lip is super negligible and the button's rim covers it completely with a lot of room to spare. The 1.1/8" punch is the perfect size for HAPP buttons, there is maybe 1-2 mm of play but tightening the "button-nut" locks them in nicely.
Yeah I really like the punch rather than hole-saw for this application. Personal preference I guess.
The clean even holes and no burring/razor edges just eliminates more work in the long run. Sure it takes a bit more elbow grease to crank it, but the results are much nicer, and to your point of being in an apartment there is less clean-up.
My only gripe about the punch is that I am using a 8" crescent wrench with it and I am just barely able to crank it with all of my strength/body weight (230lbs!) I am going to go buy some conduit to extend the wrench handle and i feel like it will be smooth sailing afterwards.
Definitely recommend this, you need more man-muscle torque to make it easier.
Nice job, that hole looks very clean.
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Sure it takes a bit more elbow grease to crank it, but the results are much nicer, and to your point of being in an apartment there is less clean-up.
:laugh2:
Quotes are fun out of context.
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PILOT HOLES PILOT HOLES PILOT HOLES!!!!
how was i not doing this already?! by:
1 drilling a small pilot hole,
2 then a slightly larger one in it,
3 then a slightly larger one,
4 then going to the 1/2" bit,
5 then flipping over and drilling from the backside after getting about 1/2 through with the big bit.
6 clamping on with the punch and wrenching away till you hear the pop (Punch/teeth on the CP side, die on under side, makes the hole's lip go downward and finishes 100% ready for hands to be sliding on it and not getting scratched or cut)
using this method has seriously expedited the drilling the starter hole for the punch, it has allowed to me place the holes very accurately as well and minimized walking or having to apply insane amounts of weight behind the drill. This takes a little time still, but is no longer a PITA during any of the steps.
The knockout punch did wear out after 13 holes though, so plan on either going very carefully while tightening, or only getting about 10-12 holes out of one before having to replace it) if you are working on 14 gauge hardened steel like your old buddy, OP
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After 13 holes the draw stud threads of the punch are pretty boogered-up I don't want to continue and damage the punch. Does anyone know what I could do for a replacement draw stud?
Thanks for the help
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Ordered a replacement punch, same brand "greenlee 730". I bough the last punch for $25 shipped, and got 13 holes out of it. I spoke to my old man and he said $2 a hole isn't that bad so i guess I'll plan on about 10 holes before one wears out and just waste money accordingly :D
I am curious to try the new draw stud with the old punch but if it grinds even a little while threading im just going to toss it in the scrap bin.
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new punch made the last 3 holes nice and easy, right as I was finishing, I had gotten the process down pretty damn well.
I used cobalt drill bits and a little bottle of milling oil from amazon
drill starter hole with 1/8" drill bit
drill larger hole with 1/4" drill bit
drill larger hole with 3/8" Drill bit
drill larger hole with 1/2" drill bit
clamp on with Greenlee 730 1.1/8" punch (die on the UNDER SIDE of the panel, punch on the TOP s the li goes downward) and 2' pipe on a crescent wrench handle for leverage
crank nice and easy until the punch makes 2 snap sounds and starts spinning freely again.
a tip on the punch - as my first one was being ruined, it started making a squeaking sound while I was using it, not sure if by the time I heard the sound it was already too late, or if I was going to hard or something and could have made an adjustment to my technique. ether way, if you hear like a squeaking/rubbing noise while using the punch, its not a good sign.