The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: floriske.nl on October 05, 2012, 04:35:55 am
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To be able to keep all updates on the first page I have moved all 2012 updates and the original first post to the 3d post of this topic!
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/topicheader.jpg)
This project is supported by:
(http://www.arcadewinkel.nl/image/data/logo/Logo2012.png) (http://arcadewinkel.nl/) (http://kadevice.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/logoweb__ocp_200h1.png) (http://www.kadevice.com)
This build will be based on the following hardware:
• Xbox classic (v1.6 with duo-x2) with 200GB hdd and coinops
• 21" samsung Syncmaster 214T LCD monitor (has an s-video input so it's perfect for the xbox and I can always switch to PC later)
• 22 HAPP buttons
• 3 smaller buttons
• 2 Battop fighter sticks with Cherry switches
• 2 KADE encoders (prototypes -> Thanks a lot Jon!)
After some useful remarks after posting my first design here's the somewhat final design for my bartop:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/Ontwerp 4_2 Bartop_600px.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/Ontwerp%204_2%20Bartop.jpg)
Blueprints:
Since it's now clear that all parts fit like they should and I got a few requests for this I decided to make a "blueprint" of the design:
Evo XR Cade Bartop Blueprint 1:10 (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/Blueprints%20Evo%20XR%20Cade%20Bartop.pdf)
Evo XR Cade Sidepanel 1:1 with raster (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/Blueprint%20Evo%20XR%20Cade%20Sidepanel%20with%20raster.pdf)
Evo XR Cade Controlpanel 1:1 with raster (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/Blueprint%20Evo%20XR%20Cade%20Controlpanel%20with%20raster.pdf)
© floriske.nl 2012
These plans are intended for private use only, Commercial use and distribution is strictly prohibited without express and prior written consent of the author.
These plans may however be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted for private use, without the prior written consent of the author, under the strict term that the original author is credited at all time.
Updates:
Updates are listed from new to old so the latest update is always on top.
20-10-2013
Time to call this project "Done!"
After playing around with my cnc router a lot I decided that it was time to finish this project.
A few small things still had to be done.
First of all the serial plate and bezel "logo":
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_3010.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_3010.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_3012.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_3012.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_3018.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_3018.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_3022.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_3022.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_3024.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_3024.jpg)
Next the component to vga converter (glad I decided to go for this instead of s-video, picture is way better):
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_3028.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_3028.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_3031.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_3031.jpg)
And a small dimmer for the marque led strips:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_3033.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_3033.jpg)
And with that it's finally finished:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1899.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1899.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1903.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1903.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1905.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1905.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1906.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1906.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1910.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1910.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1917.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1917.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1931.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1931.jpg)
Thanks everybody, for all the help and inspiration!! And special thanks to the people of KADE and Arcadewinkel.nl
03-07-2013
finished tidying up the internals and mounted the back door:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1181.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1181.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1182.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1182.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1183.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1183.jpg)
I had some noise on the video signal which turned out to be caused by the 12V psu for the amp and LED strips. Simply connecting a wire between the PSU negative and the monitor chassis solved this. (the black wire you see running to one of the vesa mounting holes).
With this the project is just about done ;D
All that's left to do is:
- Open the xbox and solder the power and eject wiring for the CP
- The little artwork detail on the bezel (decided to try and print this myself on our OKI laser at work on waterslide decal paper which I ordered today)
- The serial plate. For this I have some leftover "stainless steel" decoration foil onto which I will stick the design, once again on waterslide decal paper.
01-07-2013
More pics than text because I'm on a short time span here ;)
Mounted the marquee LED strips:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1164.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1164.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1166.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1166.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1171.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1171.jpg)
The lit result needs to become a bit more yellowish, hope I can achieve this by adding some yellowish vinyl behind the artwork.
Mounted my amp on a piece of wood that is stained in the same color as the cabinet (more on this later)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1173.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1173.jpg)
And the promised quick overview of what it looks like atm:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1177.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1177.jpg)
29-06-2013
Spent some time on wiring the control panel today. Damn what a time consuming job :dizzy:
Just reminds me why I do these projects for fun, not for commercial purposes. That would never pay of ;)
First of all the grounding harness:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1151.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1151.jpg)
And fully wired:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1159.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1159.jpg)
Didn't solder the shift and power leds yet but that's peanuts compared to the rest!
16-05-2013
Yesterday I've picked up my artwork and apllied it. The clearview stickers look great behind the plexiglas and polystyrene:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1144.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1144.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1146.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1146.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1149.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1149.jpg)
25-05-2013
After a well earned holiday I picked up my cabinet base last wednesday. In the meantime I've mounted my speakers and drilled the last two holes in the CP for the joysticks. Did a quick placement of all buttons etc. just to get an idea what it will look like.
Progress is still slow, but ongoing ;)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1115.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1115.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1120.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1120.jpg)
03-05-2013
Glued the base together so it's now ready for staining/painting.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_0080.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_0080.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_0084.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_0084.jpg)
30-04-2013
I've put aside some of the other stuff I'm busy with atm and finally did some more work on my bartop.
First of all because my admin panel is 41mm thick (2x18mm wood + 5mm top) I had to route down the backside of it so the happ buttons can be mounted properly:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_0059.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_0059.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_0061.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_0061.jpg)
Next I routed the holes for the joysticks.
First I made a template for the routing work. Since I'm using a 12mm router bit in a 17mm guide bush I had to make the holes in the template 5mm larger than the desired final size.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_0066.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_0066.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_0067.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_0067.jpg)
For correct alignment I drew a cross onto the CP as well as on the templates at the center of each side.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_0070.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_0070.jpg)
First I routed the trough and through holes for the body of the joysticks.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_0073.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_0073.jpg)
And next the ones to flush mount them.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_0076.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_0076.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_0077.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_0077.jpg)
23-02-2013
It's been a while because of the cold weather and I've been busy with all kinds of other stuff, but here's a small update of the project.
First of all I've mounted my speakers.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_0002.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_0002.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_0003.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_0003.jpg)
After that I could measure how much room there was left between the marque and the speakers and route slots for the backpanel of the marque (this wil be removable just like the marque itself)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_0006.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_0006.jpg)
Next to that I've routed a small slot in the top of the front panel (underneath the cp) so when I would like to use normal controllers with the xbox I can route the cable through this slot.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_0009.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_0009.jpg)
Hope to make some more progress the following days.
28-01-2013
Just routed my cp top.
First I've done some testing since the polystyrene tends to melt and for those ever needing to route this material:
Use a lower speed, work counterclockwise and move fast, that gives the best result.
the pics are directly after routing, no sanding yet and the protective plastic is still on on one side (between the wood and panel), any scratches you see are on the sheet instead of the material itself.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4847.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4847.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4850.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4850.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4851.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4851.jpg)
26-01-2013
Finally after some drama: some success!
After ruining my plexi twice I decided to go for polystyrene this time (they didn't have thick enough lexan at the local hardware store). This tends to melt a bit faster so I had to drill a bit slower, but doesn't crack as easy as plexi does.
Here are some photo's of drilling the first plexi panel (used somewhat the same proces for the final one)
First I spray glued my cp template onto the wood and pre drilled the holes with a 3mm drill:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4821.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4821.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4823.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4823.jpg)
Next I placed the plexi panel on top and drilled the 2 holes for the joysticks so I could mount the plexi to the wood with 2 hex bolts.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4826.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4826.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4827.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4827.jpg)
After this I drilled all holes into the plexi as well using a battery drill and drilling from the back (through the existing holes in the wood first)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4828.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4828.jpg)
Next step: drilling the buttons. the happ buttons went just fine, but with the smaller admin buttons I messed things up.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4835.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4835.jpg)
So as mentioned I bought a polystyrene panel and redrilled all the holes using the wooden cp as template:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4838.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4838.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4841.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4841.jpg)
Next step: routing the edges with a flush trim bit and rounding them after that.
17-01-2013
Yesterday I mounted the hinge panel and glued the cp to it:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4810.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4810.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4814.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4814.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4818.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4818.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4819.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4819.jpg)
Unfortunately I did a slight miscalculation on the hinge point, not a major problem, but I wanted the cp to open up just a bit further than it does now, but yet again not too much because else the joysticks would/could hit the screen.
Still it opens up more than enough to reach the xbox etc. inside the cabinet without having to open the back panel.
The cp will be fit with a gas strut or something similar so it stays open, for now a screw driver will do ;)
15-01-2013
It's been a while since I posted an update, mainly due to the holidays and being busy with all kind of other stuff. Amongst which "Selling my motion sim".
But picked this up again today and started with making my cp hinge points.
At first I wanted to use standard hinges for this, but thought of a method of creating something my self (which is more fun of course ;)).
Instead of the panel that was cut for this purpose I took a leftover piece with the same length as the original one. It's still a bit too wide but I will cut this to the right size later.
First of all I drilled a hole with my dowel drill on each side of the panel at the point I want the panel to turn:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4794.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4794.jpg)
Next I routed little slots with my bench top drill which has a cross table for simple routing work.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4795.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4795.jpg)
Took a couple of dowels, drilled a 2,5mm hole in them and fitted an m3 hex bolt:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4797.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4797.jpg)
Putting the parts together results in my own "sliding" hinges which makes the cp easily removable when needed.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4801.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4801.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4802.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4802.jpg)
To drill the holes inside the side panels of the cabinet I used a few simple dowel center points.
All 2012 updates have been move to the 3d post of this topic to be able to keep all updates on the first page of the topic
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Looks good. What program did you do your design in?
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18-12-2012
Curious what the router template was for? Here's the answer.
First of all it was sort of an experiment to see if this type of work could easily be done with a plunge router.
But most important it was for my ventilation- and speaker slots in the back- and top panels:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4762.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4762.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4766.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4766.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4768.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4768.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4771.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4771.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4772.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4772.jpg)
The XR in the center was just a little extra. Since it's the back it won't be really visible, but it was fun to do and ads some extra ventilation to the cabinet ;)
Here they are placed back in the cab:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4777.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4777.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4778.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4778.jpg)
And a last pic of my cheap #55 speakers.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4779.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4779.jpg)
26-12-2012
Not really an update, but more of a teaser of a routing template I've been working on an I hope will work out (need to get myself a new router bit first because the current one is quite blunt and good enough for routing the template, but not for the actual work):
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4759.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4759.jpg)
22-12-12
Since my speakers didn't arrive yet I decided to do some other work and mounted my monitor today.
Made 4 simple brackets to mount the monitor to the panel:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4731.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4731.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4736.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4736.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4741.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4741.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4742.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4742.jpg)
Next I mounted 4 aluminum brackets for mounting the monitor panel to the cabinet. Found some nice brackets with slot holes which look better than simple steel ones and the slotted holes give me some room to position it precisely.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4745.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4745.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4749.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4749.jpg)
And here it is assembled in the cab:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4751.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4751.jpg)
19-12-12
Just finished taking apart the cab, rounding all edges and putting it back together:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4696.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4696.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4707.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4707.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4710.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4710.jpg)
As you can see my plexi for the marquee arrived as well (for the cp as wel but nothing interesting about a square piece that needs work ;)). I've ardered 2 pieces, 4mm thick and 3mm thick and the latter works perfect with my mounting system. 4mm is just a bit too thick and requires some bending to get it in.
Hopefully my speakers (http://www.conrad.nl/ce/nl/product/373006/Baseline-luidspreker-BA-915-EVO/0321150&ref=list) arrive tomorrow so I can do the last woodwork on the top panel. After this I can glue the base together and start working on mounting the monitor, the back door and start working on the cp.
16-12-12
Managed to get some work done today, but not everything turned out like I hoped for :-[ (luckily all fixable).
I routed the monitor panel today:
Since I'm using a guide bush on my router for this I took a few left over pieces of plywood and screwed them onto the monitor panel.
I'm using an 18mm guide bush and a 12mm router bit so I have to screw the plywood 3mm further away from the lines that indicate the screen size (hope that makes sense ;))
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4670.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4670.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4671.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4671.jpg)
Next I started routing in steps of about 5mm in depth until I completely finished the hole for the screen.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4676.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4676.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4679.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4679.jpg)
Since I want to slightly flush mount the monitor I had to move plywood pieces further outside for routing the second stage:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4680.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4680.jpg)
Resulting in the semi-finished panel (already filled the screw holes on these pics):
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4682.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4682.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4684.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4684.jpg)
Test fitting the monitor:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4686.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4686.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4687.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4687.jpg)
After turning it around...:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4689.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4689.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4690.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4690.jpg)
... I discovered that I made 2 mistakes:
- The hole for the monitor panel is about a mm or 2 too wide resulting in the metal edges of the screen being visible.
Going to "fix" this by making the metal edges black.
- Because 18mm of the monitor panel will stick behind the bottom marque panel I had to shift the monitor 18 mm to keep it centered in the visible area of the panel. But I shifted the hole in the wrong direction, resulting in the monitor being way off center :(
Luckily this panel will get painted instead of stained so I've filled the old dowel holes in the narrow side and drilled new ones on the other side (no pictures of this because the filler is drying atm and needs sanding afterwards)
It was raining on and off today and I reckon both mistakes are because of being too hasty, a good lesson not to be next time!
Edit:
Here's one extra picture of the panel back in place after filling and sanding the old dowel holes:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4692.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4692.jpg)
11-12-12
Since I'm always busy with other stuff and it's winter (read: bad weather) because of witch I can't do much work outside (the router work etc. is what I have to do outside to prevent a thick layer of dust that I need to clear out on everything in our garage) this project progresses slow, but I've managed to get some small work done the past few days.
First of all I've disassembled the monitor:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4652.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4652.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4656.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4656.jpg)
Next to that I've routed the slots for the marquee:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4662.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4662.jpg)
As you can see the slot in the top panel is deeper than the one in the bottom panel so I can slide the marquee into the top first and let it drop into the bottom one next.
I've also drilled a few dowels in the top edge of the monitor panel to connect it to the bottom marquee panel. This way I'm sure it aligns propperly and the marquee bottom can't bend this way either.
They are not going to be glued together because the monitor panel will be a different color and mounted seperately/non permanent so if I'd even need a new monitor it will be easily exchangable.
With this done I could do another test mounting to see if all parts fit like they should and so far so good:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4664.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4664.jpg)
4-12-2-12
I've just cut my cp:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4639.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4639.jpg)
4-12-2012
Good thing I didn't cut my cp yet :notworthy: (and a good thing I didn't share my templates yet)
Why? Because there was a pretty big flaw in my design :banghead: because I didn't create a top view of the total cabinet since I didn't think it would be needed. But when I cut my cp template last night and placed it on my cabinet I discovered that the rounding at the front was too big because of which the cp didn't fully overlap the actual cabinet :censored:
This resulted in me having to create a modified design:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/Ontwerp 5 Bartop_600px.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/Ontwerp 5 Bartop.jpg)
Shapewise I prefer the previous version, but am happy with this one as well.
2-12-2012
Found some time to work on the cabinet today.
My initial plans where to cut the cp and round the edges of the sidepanels, but because I started having doubts about rounding the edges or simply sanding them a bit I decided to do some other work.
Today I've drilled most of the dowels which I'm using to mount the base together. For which I bought a very handy tool.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4626.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4626.jpg)
After this I couldn't resist putting it together (without glue for now) to get an idea what it will look like. And here it is on our kitchen bar (a suitable place for a bartop ;) )
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4631.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4631.jpg)
I've placed a wine bottle next to it to give you an idea of the actual dimensions.
The only panel that I still need to drill the dowels for is the bottom of the marque (all other panels will either be removable or mounted differently), but I couldn't do this yet. The tool I bought requires a straight wood edge, but at that point the sidepanels are almoste completely rounded (inner and outer corner). So I need 8mm dowel centre points for this and I only have 10mm atm.
Edit:
Figured a way to propperly drill the dowels for the other panel as well (without centre points):
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4637.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4637.jpg)
28-10-2012
After finishing my motion sim (http://x-sim.de/forum/viewtopic.php?t=129) a few days ago I found some time to start on this project.
First here's some pictures of the hardware I've gathered so far (monitor isn't on the pictures but I do have it as well)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4613.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4613.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4616.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4616.jpg)
Yesterday I've found some time to cut out the side panels. After cutting the first one with the hacksaw I've traced it on to the wood again and cut a few mm around it (once again with the hacksaw). After this I've used a copy bit in my router to trace it and make sure I have 2 exact copies.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4618.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4618.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4619.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4619.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4623.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4623.jpg)
Next steps: Rounding the edges and cutting the control panel.
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Original first post:
After almost finishing my 2 DOF motion simulator (http://x-sim.de/forum/viewtopic.php?f=37&t=129) I'm allready working on a new project: An Xbox based Bartop. It's my first arcade project.
The project is supported by:
(http://www.arcadewinkel.nl/image/data/logo/Logo2012.png) (http://arcadewinkel.nl/) (http://kadevice.com/wp-content/uploads/2012/10/logoweb__ocp_200h1.png) (http://www.kadevice.com)
At this moment I'm gathering materials for my build, but it will basically based on the following hardware:
• Xbox classic (v1.6 with duo-x2) with 200GB hdd and coinops
• 21" samsung Syncmaster 214T LCD monitor (has an s-video input so it's perfect for the xbox and I can always switch to PC later)
• 24 HAPP buttons
• 2 Battop fighter sticks with Cherry switches
• KADE encoder(s) I hope (depends on when they will be released, else I will solder to a controller pcb or go for the Arcade forge Dual strike or X-Arcade encoder)
Here's the basic design of the cabinet, some dimensions might change a little due to actual hardware dimensions (the design was made before my hardware started to arrive):
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/Ontwerp%203%20Bartop_600px.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/Ontwerp%203%20Bartop.jpg)
The cabinet will be made out of 18mm birch plywood or oak panels with router rounded edges (no T-molding) and will be painted in the same colour as our furniture (walnut cabinet base with a RAL 9001 monitor- and control panel) so it will "blend" in to our living room. There will be no expressive decals etc. The only decal I'm going to design is a subtle one for the button panel labeling the buttons.
That's it for now, but I'm hoping to start building and posting updates on short notice!
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Original 3d post:
Thanks!
I'm a graphic designer so for me it's easy to use the tools I work with on a daily basis. Adobe illustrator in this case.
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lcd monitor s-video? that would have like a second delay lol..
you should consider getting some kind of hd cable or something. nice design tho.
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I really like your design. I've been sketching out a few designs that are similar but I like what you have done with the CP better! My design has the top of the CP flush with the sides so your hands can hang over a bit but making the CP itself hang over makes more sense.
:cheers:
What I like:
- classic lines
- 2 Players not having to sit on each others laps/ good sized CP for a bartop
- xBox/KADE
What I wonder about:
- left joystick looks close to the side of the cab, might be hard to wire depending on joystick type
- too many buttons. You only really need 6 for each player for gameplay on the xBox + start/back for both players. You might want a few admin buttons, shift, and possibly triggers out of the way- maybe on the front. the image is a bit small to see the labels on the buttons you have along the top.
- I'd consider a VGA hack or stock component for video
- will taller people have the marquee area getting in the way of the top of the screen?
If you are willing to share, I'd love to mess around with the .ai files. I only have CS3 if you do feel like posting them.
Your motion simulator is really cool too!
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In my first design I had sort of a cp box wider than the cabinet but when I started to work on the button layout I noticed that it would fit between the side panels. That's how I came up with the idea of the cp sticking out the sides.
The cp will be detachable and if my calculations and measurements are correct there should be no problems with the left joystick.
Next to that the above sketch was made before my parts stated to arrive. In the meantime most of it had arrived and I'm going to do a more final design in the next few days.
Regarding the buttons: don't know if you ever heard the phrase "switches get b!tche$" ;)
Ok, serious: the top 4 buttons are start, back, shift and exit. The 2 below the standard controls are the triggers.
Personally I prefer placement on the cp instead of the front or sides and I have an idea to place the top 4 a bit further from the rest of the buttons which you'll see in my new design. The triggers are needed because I want to be able to play some Xbox games with the cp as well.
I have hooked up the monitor yesterday and didn't notice any significant delay on the s-video input. If it should turn out to be present in a layer stage I can always revert to a vga hack instead.
The marquee is a point of thought indeed. Think I'll make it a bit less deep in the next design.
Btw if I'm going to use Kade is still depending on the release date ;) but hope so!
Thx for the compliments on the design and my motion sim!
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Started on the adjusted design today:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/Ontwerp%204%20Bartop_600px.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/Ontwerp%204%20Bartop.jpg)
(click the image for a larger version)
The biggest changes are the (over 5cm) less deep marquee and the cp with extruding section for the admin buttons.
As you can see I also made a rough start with the "simple" artwork. Guess what it will be an "ode" to ;)
Edit:
updated the design a bit:
• Slightly deeper marquee
• Slightly raised the monitor
• Added the rounded edges of the cp to the design
• Came up with a name which should speak for itself (for those to whom it isn't: evo-x was the first decent dashboard for modded xboxes)
• Marquee design
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Looks great!
Two thoughts:
Ron310 has a slightly different way to solve the marquee issue with a classic styled bartop that is worth taking a look at:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,120622.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,120622.0.html)
What is going to happen here where the sides of the cab, the monitor and fixed button area, and the CP interface?
(https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-tK5QKm6UIcY/UHMxfVzjytI/AAAAAAAAIdA/4oC3jB-xKGw/s480/Screen+shot+2012-10-08+at+1.47.31+PM.png)
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I don't really like the straight top/slanted bottom of the marquee, I prefer the lines in parallel like in my design. I've done a quick mock up with a piece of carboard and I think I'm going to enlarge it again slightly because since the bottom of the marque is in a 90 degree angle with the screen it doesn't get in the way as much as you'd think.
Regarding the cp:
Hope this makes sense in my best of english, but once it's done it will be ;): the edges of the entire cp will be rounded (5mm) and thus the cp will stick out 5mm above the side panels. The new "extruded" admin button part will be in between the side panels. (the grey lines in the design are "behind" the sidepanel)
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I think your english is better than mine!
That all makes sense to me.
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The english itself isn't the problem, I'm well tought in that, but it's making something clear that can be troublesome once a while ;)
Updated the design a few posts back a bit to sort of "semi-final".
offtopic: Nice avatar by the way! I've been an old school skater so that surely brings back memories! ;)
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Since the dust washers over time will "damage/scratch" the plexiglass of my cp I've been thinking about a way to use them differently and came up with this:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/Joystick%20mounting_600px.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/Joystick%20mounting.jpg)
This way the dust washers are underneath the plexiglass instead of on top.
The 32mm hole is a wild gues, will have to measure the actual movement of the joysticks to determine the exact dimensions.
No idea how this would look, but if I don't like it I can easilly place them on top anyway ;) In my CP design there's a "black" circle around the joysticks and since my dustwashers are black as well I hope that it will look ok.
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Are you SURE the adhesive won't discolor over time or make the artwork look like it is smeared with a thin layer of vaseline? :dunno
Maybe 2 layers of 2 mm plexi with the art sandwiched between would work?
- 2mm plexi -
----- art -----
-- adhesive --
- 2mm plexi -
Scott
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These stickers are used as window stickers normally and are available in removable, permanent and static adhesive.
The waranty on the colors is 2-3 years in direct sunlight (so in a living room it should last a lot longer.
I'm going to ask for a sample so I can see what applying them does to the colors (if you can see that it's printed on the glue side)
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Nice wrk man....this is coming along great....one thing i've noticed and you mugth have done this on purpose...
But 2 exit buttons is overkill. If you end up using Kade, hitting exit off of one the encoders is gonna kill the game.
LOL, one of sharpforks biggest pet peave's is the accidental game exit, you will have 2 options to exit, start+back or the dedicated exit button. I would recommend only 1 exit, having on both sides is just asking for trouble :)
:applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
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Thx!
Problem is that losing one of the exit buttons means losing my symmetry and i don't like having to press 2 buttons.
I could solve this by using one of the 2 buttons for ejecting the tray (looking into mounting the drive in such way that it is still usable). The power switch will most likely be placed in the center between de admin buttons and will be a smaller sized button.
Here's an updated design more related to the artwork. As mentioned the wood will be birch or oak and painted in the same color as our furniture.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/Ontwerp%204%20Bartop_Artwork_600px.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/Ontwerp%204%20Bartop_Artwork.jpg)
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I understand....
Just an idea....
Power and Exit in the center smaller buttons as stated
Start Back Shift for each player centered.........so 3 and 3 and 2 smaller in the center...
The smaller exit button will also help with the oopsies....
Since your doing a full layout, cuttins down on the button overall buttons will cut down on the clutter efftect.
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Not a bad idead indeed.
I would add eject to the small buttons as well though and will have to find some nice looking buttons which isn't easy because a lot of them either look bad or have only a few mm of thread and they have to clear the 2mm plexiglass + at least a few mm of the wood panel as well.
Else I would have to mount the switches directly in the plexiglass which could lead to unwanted "pressure" on the artwork vinyl causing wrinkles unless the nut is smaller than the switches top ring which leads me to something like these buttons (http://www.ebay.com/itm/PACK12-Black-Momentary-Push-Button-ON-OFF-Switch-507BK-/260567583639?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item3cab09cb97) or these (http://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-Black-MOMENTARY-OFF-ON-N-O-BOAT-Switch-BK33B-ay-/180920752602?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a1fb799da).
Another option, but not prefered, is to tap thread for the button directly into the wood, have done this before and it works but would require a button with the right thread (for which I have a tap that is ;))
Too bad they don't sell "mini" arcade buttons.
Edit: or maybe something like these buttons (http://www.ebay.com/itm/5-set-Tactile-Black-Push-Button-Switch-Momentary-New-S-/300626708255?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item45febf871f) mounted on a piece of prototype board so I can fasten it from underneath but I think I prefer the above.
Edit 2:
Ok, decided to go for the second option (http://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-Black-MOMENTARY-OFF-ON-N-O-BOAT-Switch-BK33B-ay-/180920752602?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2a1fb799da) because the 1st buttons are too big and the 3d too small and it's too much hassle to mount them.
Which leads to the following adjusted cp design:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/Ontwerp%204_2%20Bartop_CP_600px.jpg)
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you could always try drilling/routering a larger hole from behind to suit the threaded nut, or go for a longer button stem and just hot glue it in. http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MINI-MOMENTARY-ARCADE-BUTTON-WHITE-NEW-/370575274740?pt=UK_Video_Games_Coin_Operated_MJ&hash=item564801f2f4 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MINI-MOMENTARY-ARCADE-BUTTON-WHITE-NEW-/370575274740?pt=UK_Video_Games_Coin_Operated_MJ&hash=item564801f2f4)
Regarding the Kade, Degenatron is a member here and lives in England, might be best to send him a PM to get a better idea of release, that way you can work around it.
If you are going down the non vga route at least use scart, pretty sure with scart you can power one of the pins so the tv switches to the correct channel( possibly out of standby too)
You have a 1.6 xbox, there is no vga bios hack available for this. I managed to pick up a mayflash YPbPr to RGBHV VGA from ebay, once the region is changed to NTSC and 480p/720p enabled it works fine.
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That's exactly what I decided to do, since the nut of the switches I ordered is just as big as the switch top I reckon there will be no problem with wrinkles in the artwork.
I don't like the looks of the mini buttons from arcadeworld.
I'm not using a TV but a PC LCD monitor with S-Video input, so scart (basically at best component+audio in a little box ;)) is not an option.
I have another v1.0 Xbox as well, so as mentioned: If the S-Video turns out to be too laggy I will go the VGA route, but so far I haven't noticed any significant delay on the input.
p.s. Thanks for the tip on Kade, might just do that but don't want to bother him too much.
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The one thing you will notice between the svideo and vga is the quality.
I've emailed Degenatron and forwarded this thread to him. If he has time i'm sure he'll read it.
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I'm quite happy with the quality of the s-video signal on the 214T, no jitter, and for instance the XBMC flicker filter can easily be set back to 0 without a problem so for now it's ok for me.
Next to that an arcade game shouldn't look too crisp ;)
Thanks for forwarding the thread!
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Thanks!
I'm a graphic designer so for me it's easy to use the tools I work with on a daily basis. Adobe illustrator in this case.
Right on, that is what I figured by the look of it. I am a designer as well, that is why I was curious.
Looks good.
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Hi Floriske.nl,
I sent you a PM re: the KADE. I sure would love to see them showcased in your cab. Nice work!
Thanks
Jon
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Thanks a lot for that Jon, looking forward to playing around with them!
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The cabinet will be made out of 18mm birch plywood or oak panels with router rounded edges (no T-molding) and will be painted in the same colour as our furniture (walnut cabinet base with a RAL 9001 monitor- and control panel) so it will "blend" in to our living room.
Just FYI... You are going to kick yourself if you go this route! You dont router round plywood. If you are going to use plywood then go with tmolding. If you insist on rounding the edges with a router then use MDF! ;)
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Hi Floris,
I really like the design with that colors! Hope that the Xbox will perform well.
Keep it up.
Grtz,
Arno
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The cabinet will be made out of 18mm birch plywood or oak panels with router rounded edges (no T-molding) and will be painted in the same colour as our furniture (walnut cabinet base with a RAL 9001 monitor- and control panel) so it will "blend" in to our living room.
Just FYI... You are going to kick yourself if you go this route! You dont router round plywood. If you are going to use plywood then go with tmolding. If you insist on rounding the edges with a router then use MDF! ;)
No I'm not :P
I've used this method before with great success, all it takes is some practice (I've built flight cases, amp racks, tool cabinets for cars etc. as a profession for a few years).
But since I decided to go with oak panels instead of plywood anyway I won't have to kick myself for sure ;)
Hi Floris,
I really like the design with that colors! Hope that the Xbox will perform well.
Keep it up.
Grtz,
Arno
Thx arno!
I've heard good things about coinops so I reckon it will be fine.
Currently got some personal stuff to deal with first so the project is slightly delayed but I've finished my motion sim today :D so should be able to start on short notice.
Grtz!
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Yes, coinops is very good. I have a modded xbox with coinops 4 on it, and it is really impressive !
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Maybe you guys should check out 'Vision' if you're wanting more of a showcase dash/frontend..
Fight Club (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g-40g-qoy1k#)
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(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/topicheader.png)
After finishing my motion sim (http://x-sim.de/forum/viewtopic.php?t=129) a few days ago I found some time to start on this project.
First here's some pictures of the hardware I've gathered so far (monitor isn't on the pictures but I do have it as well)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4613.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4613.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4616.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4616.jpg)
Yesterday I've found some time to cut out the side panels. After cutting the first one with the hacksaw I've traced it on to the wood again and cut a few mm around it (once again with the hacksaw). After this I've used a copy bit in my router to trace it and make sure I have 2 exact copies.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4618.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4618.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4619.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4619.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4623.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4623.jpg)
Next steps: Rounding the edges and cutting the control panel.
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Great to see you back on this project (nice motion sim by the way). I'll be following this closely as I intend to build an Xbox-based bartop in the near future as well. I love your design. Good luck!
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Since I'm also planing to build a bartop I will follow this project very closely.
Nice project you have!
Do you think its possible to share the editable files of the plans? So I can make some changes for my own version?
Thanks!
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I really like the design. Following.
All the best.
edit: I have to agree with the the too many buttons comments but it's your project so your call. :)
Have you routed the edges of birch before? you might get some chip outs but nothing a bit of putty won't fix.
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Great to see you back on this project (nice motion sim by the way). I'll be following this closely as I intend to build an Xbox-based bartop in the near future as well. I love your design. Good luck!
Thx! Always nice to see if someone finds your design inspiring ;)
Since I'm also planing to build a bartop I will follow this project very closely.
Nice project you have!
Do you think its possible to share the editable files of the plans? So I can make some changes for my own version?
Thanks!
Thanks as well!
I will make the drawings public later on, not just yet, I want to build the cabinet first to see if any changes need to made, after that I will "clean up" the design files to a template.
I really like the design. Following.
All the best.
edit: I have to agree with the the too many buttons comments but it's your project so your call. :)
Have you routed the edges of birch before? you might get some chip outs but nothing a bit of putty won't fix.
And yet another thank you!
The buttons are my call indeed, I think the current amount is what I really need since I want to be able to use all functions of the xbox controller (to be able to play normal games as well).
Next to that I think my "seperate" extruding admin button panel limits the "Frankenpanel" feel enough ;)
Regarding the rounding of the edges:
I have router rounded birch before, but since I'm using oak for this project >:D I will do a test on a leftover piece first.
I have a fairly new (sharp) rounding bit and i don't expect any problems when using a high rpm and slowly moving the router (patience is a virtue ;) )
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Maybe you guys should check out 'Vision' if you're wanting more of a showcase dash/frontend..
Fight Club (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=g-40g-qoy1k#)
looks cool. do you have a link.?
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Would probably break the rules if i posted links, the coder also does coinops for the xbox if that helps with google.
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(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/topicheader.png)
Found some time to work on the cabinet today.
My initial plans where to cut the cp and round the edges of the sidepanels, but because I started having doubts about rounding the edges or simply sanding them a bit I decided to do some other work.
Today I've drilled most of the dowels which I'm using to mount the base together. For which I bought a very handy tool.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4626.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4626.jpg)
After this I couldn't resist putting it together (without glue for now) to get an idea what it will look like. And here it is on our kitchen bar (a suitable place for a bartop ;) )
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4631.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4631.jpg)
I've placed a wine bottle next to it to give you an idea of the actual dimensions.
The only panel that I still need to drill the dowels for is the bottom of the marque (all other panels will either be removable or mounted differently), but I couldn't do this yet. The tool I bought requires a straight wood edge, but at that point the sidepanels are almoste completely rounded (inner and outer corner). So I need 8mm dowel centre points for this and I only have 10mm atm.
Edit:
Figured a way to propperly drill the dowels for the other panel as well (without centre points):
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4637.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4637.jpg)
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(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/topicheader.png)
Good thing I didn't cut my cp yet :notworthy: (and a good thing I didn't share my templates yet)
Why? Because there was a pretty big flaw in my design :banghead: because I didn't create a top view of the total cabinet since I didn't think it would be needed. But when I cut my cp template last night and placed it on my cabinet I discovered that the rounding at the front was too big because of which the cp didn't fully overlap the actual cabinet :censored:
This resulted in me having to create a modified design:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/Ontwerp 5 Bartop_600px.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/Ontwerp 5 Bartop.jpg)
Shapewise I prefer the previous version, but am happy with this one as well.
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What's with all this advertising? Not trying to stick my nose where it doesn't belong and if I'm out of line excuse my ignorance but really? You're going to spam your sponsors with every update?
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What's with all this advertising? Not trying to stick my nose where it doesn't belong and if I'm out of line excuse my ignorance but really? You're going to spam your sponsors with every update?
Truly I don't see the problem in that and if any of the moderators would have had problems with it I bet they would have contacted me about it. Next to that imho this type of comment shouldn't be placed in a topic, for this we have pm and there is a "Report to moderator" link under each post if you think it's not suitable.
Just my 2 cents
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I don't see any problem with it.
floriske.nl is doing an amazing work, and if that work is with the help of those sponsors why not advertise them?
At the end, what we really want is to see the work done, I don't care about the rest.
Does your car have the brand symbol? why use it? :p
Come on, lets just keep watching this build getting live. :)
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(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/topicheader.png)
First of all I would like to ask if anyone else next to two40 has problems with me naming my "sponsors" (I prefer to call them helpers instead because they helped me out instead of giving me products for free) in each update? If it turns out that there are more people bothered by this I'll stop doing it, but for now I think it's the least I can do back for them. Plus I think it gives readers a good lead on what are updates and what are normal posts and replies.
Second I've just cut my cp:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4639.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4639.jpg)
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I don't have a "problem" with it, they're just really big. Why don't you use smaller graphics in your signature like most people do? :dunno
Like, look at the post above. Your "header" is bigger than your actual post, WITH photo.
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I don't have a "problem" with it, they're just really big. Why don't you use smaller graphics in your signature like most people do? :dunno
Like, look at the post above. Your "header" is bigger than your actual post, WITH photo.
Lol, that's laziness from my side. It's a 1:1 crop from my design. But good point! I'll look into making it all a bit more subtle. Thx.
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I don't have a "problem" with it, they're just really big. Why don't you use smaller graphics in your signature like most people do? :dunno
Like, look at the post above. Your "header" is bigger than your actual post, WITH photo.
Lol, that's laziness from my side. It's a 1:1 crop from my design. But good point! I'll look into making it all a bit more subtle. Thx.
:cheers:
Yeah, you could lay all three on a half-inch line or so. Look at Vigo's sig for a great example.
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First of all I would like to ask if anyone else next to two40 has problems with me naming my "sponsors" (I prefer to call them helpers instead because they helped me out instead of giving me products for free) in each update?
As long as we have to pay for each pixel we download from BYOAC, I agree with two40. :angry:
Wait, we aren't charged by the pixel?
Gilda Radner Nevermind (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3FnpaWQJO0#)
I don't have a "problem" with it, they're just really big. Why don't you use smaller graphics in your signature like most people do? :dunno
+1
Scott
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As long as we have to pay for each pixel we download from BYOAC, I agree with two40. :angry:
Wait, we aren't charged by the pixel?
Actually, it could impact someone's data plan...
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As long as we have to pay for each pixel we download from BYOAC, I agree with two40. :angry:
Wait, we aren't charged by the pixel?
Actually, it could impact someone's data plan...
Not because Saint is charging them. (Thanks, Saint!)
Scott
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I really like your choice of wood and the general design. I'm looking forward to seeing how it all comes together.
:applaud:
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I really like your choice of wood and the general design. I'm looking forward to seeing how it all comes together.
:applaud:
Thanks! I bet I'm even more curious than you are ;)
b.t.w. I designed a new post header for my updates and changed it in all of them.
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(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/topicheader.png)
Since I'm always busy with other stuff and it's winter (read: bad weather) because of witch I can't do much work outside (the router work etc. is what I have to do outside to prevent a thick layer of dust that I need to clear out on everything in our garage) this project progresses slow, but I've managed to get some small work done the past few days.
First of all I've disassembled the monitor:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4652.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4652.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4656.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4656.jpg)
Next to that I've routed the slots for the marquee:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4662.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4662.jpg)
As you can see the slot in the top panel is deeper than the one in the bottom panel so I can slide the marquee into the top first and let it drop into the bottom one next.
I've also drilled a few dowels in the top edge of the monitor panel to connect it to the bottom marquee panel. This way I'm sure it aligns propperly and the marquee bottom can't bend this way either.
They are not going to be glued together because the monitor panel will be a different color and mounted seperately/non permanent so if I'd even need a new monitor it will be easily exchangable.
With this done I could do another test mounting to see if all parts fit like they should and so far so good:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4664.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4664.jpg)
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Looking very good! I really like the wood look.
You said you were using oak (eiken in dutch) right? How easy is that to work with compared to mdf? I've only got experience with mdf, and would like to try something different on my next build.
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You will never have the possibility to change the marq, why not do it like on my machine
(http://imageshack.us/a/img835/2240/20121109130447392.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img820/1116/20121109130424220.jpg)
(http://imageshack.us/a/img805/2562/20121109130412530.jpg)
the top shelf you can mount with only 2 screws. It's such an easy 2 go solution, and you're always able to change the light, marq and speakers.
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Looking very good! I really like the wood look.
You said you were using oak (eiken in dutch) right? How easy is that to work with compared to mdf? I've only got experience with mdf, and would like to try something different on my next build.
It's oak indeed.
It's less soft than MDF but pretty easy to work with as well, it requires some more patience in cutting and routing because when goint too fast it might start to splinter. It's also a bit more work to sand down small corners etc. which can't be made with a hacksaw because the wood is harder than MDF. Personally I used pieces of a sanding belt to sand it, this is a lot tougher than normal sand paper.
You will never have the possibility to change the marq, why not do it like on my machine
http://imageshack.us/a/img835/2240/20121109130447392.jpg (http://imageshack.us/a/img835/2240/20121109130447392.jpg)
http://imageshack.us/a/img820/1116/20121109130424220.jpg (http://imageshack.us/a/img820/1116/20121109130424220.jpg)
http://imageshack.us/a/img805/2562/20121109130412530.jpg (http://imageshack.us/a/img805/2562/20121109130412530.jpg)
the top shelf you can mount with only 2 screws. It's such an easy 2 go solution, and you're always able to change the light, marq and speakers.
If you reed my story correctly I do have the option to change the marquee, I can simply lift it out again.
Here's a sample showing what I mean:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/Marquee%20mounting%20sample_600px.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/Marquee%20mounting%20sample.jpg)
I want to keep the outside as clean as possible so I don't want an extra seem on top. Next to that the top panel provides a lot of extra strength to the cabinet when it's glued in place instead of being partially hingable.
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ah ok, now I get it ;D
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(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/topicheader.png)
Since it's now clear that all parts fit like they should and I got a few requests for this I decided to make a "blueprint" of the design:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/Blueprints Evo XR Cade Bartop_620px.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/Blueprints%20Evo%20XR%20Cade%20Bartop.pdf)
Evo XR Cade Bartop Blueprint 1:10 (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/Blueprints%20Evo%20XR%20Cade%20Bartop.pdf)
Evo XR Cade Sidepanel 1:1 with raster (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/Blueprint%20Evo%20XR%20Cade%20Sidepanel%20with%20raster.pdf)
Evo XR Cade Controlpanel 1:1 with raster (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/Blueprint%20Evo%20XR%20Cade%20Controlpanel%20with%20raster.pdf)
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HI,
thanks for sharing, this are the best plans I have seen.
I was thinking to build a full size cabine, but this one looks great too.
Thanks!
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© floriske.nl 2012
These plans are intended for private use only, Commercial use and distribution is strictly prohibited without express and prior written consent of the author.
These plans may however be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted for private use, without the prior written consent of the author, under the strict term that the original author is credited at all time.
::)
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© floriske.nl 2012
These plans are intended for private use only, Commercial use and distribution is strictly prohibited without express and prior written consent of the author.
These plans may however be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted for private use, without the prior written consent of the author, under the strict term that the original author is credited at all time.
::)
Reminds me of the disclaimer you hear at the end of sporting events.
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© floriske.nl 2012
These plans are intended for private use only, Commercial use and distribution is strictly prohibited without express and prior written consent of the author.
These plans may however be reproduced, copied, modified or adapted for private use, without the prior written consent of the author, under the strict term that the original author is credited at all time.
::)
Reminds me of the disclaimer you hear at the end of sporting events.
Lol :D
It might seem a bit over the top (that's why I removed it from the post since it's in the file anyway) but I'm a professional graphic designer and unfortunately have experience with multiple copyright violations :(
Hence the copyright notice which is solely intended to make very clear that it's not allowed to use any of my work commercially without my permission. I have absolutely no problem with private use, changes etc.
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Lol :D
It might seem a bit over the top but I'm a professional graphic designer and unfortunately have experience with multiple copyright violations :( Hence the copyright notice which is solely intended to make very clear that it's not allowed to use any of my work commercially without my permission. I have absolutely no problem with private use, changes etc.
:cheers:
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Man thanks so much for this....I'm off to buy wood asap...
A few things though....if you dont mind...
Can you label all of the parts, like base, top, back etc.
May provide the measurements for the sides, and the CP and the radius of the curves...
I would hate to butcher such a work of art, but more detail it needed.... :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
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Man thanks so much for this....I'm off to buy wood asap...
A few things though....if you dont mind...
Can you label all of the parts, like base, top, back etc.
May provide the measurements for the sides, and the CP and the radius of the curves...
I would hate to butcher such a work of art, but more detail it needed.... :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
Your welcome of course!
Regarding labeling the parts: In the side view the panel sizes where mentioned as well so you could see which panel should go where.
Still I did update the file a bit and regarding your second remark about the sidepanel and control panel dimensions etc.:
I've uploaded 2 extra files of the cp and sidepanel on a 1:1 scale with a raster so if you print it over multiple sheets you can easily stick it back together. Hope that helps.
Evo XR Cade Bartop Blueprint 1:10 (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/Blueprints%20Evo%20XR%20Cade%20Bartop.pdf)
Evo XR Cade Sidepanel 1:1 with raster (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/Blueprint%20Evo%20XR%20Cade%20Sidepanel%20with%20raster.pdf)
Evo XR Cade Controlpanel 1:1 with raster (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/Blueprint%20Evo%20XR%20Cade%20Controlpanel%20with%20raster.pdf)
All links in my posts are updated so don't worry about downloading the wrong file.
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Awesome man....thanks so much.....you have to crayon this stuff out for us slow folks...
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Can't wait to see rablack97's Dallas Maverickscade. :cheers:
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Nope you bastard's turned me off on that, no more team themes unless requested.....
I've sold the Cowboy bartop and moved on......
I see massive potential with these plans though.....I have something to do now this weekend...woohoo...
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Hey, if I could get $500 building the Urkelcade from scraps, I'd do it anytime! Did you see CoryDee's The Doors cab?
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LOL, anything attached to Cory, is always always attached to a "Did ya see"...
He's getting better......making serial plates out of drinking cans now.....
He's selling it though......good for him.......
We better stop highjacking the thread talking about other stuff......
Back to the build.... :)
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Little fookers talking about me in a different thread :bat - I didn't make a "Doors" themed bartop, I made a decent Bartop that the customer wanted to crap up -
Floriske.nl I love the professionalism of this build and the plans are solid :applaud:
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Little fookers talking about me in a different thread :bat - I didn't make a "Doors" themed bartop, I made a decent Bartop that the customer wanted to crap up -
Floriske.nl I love the professionalism of this build and the plans are solid :applaud:
We are advertising for ya man....
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We are advertising for ya man....
Much love brother man
Hey floriske, mind if I ask what software you used for your blueprints?
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Good man for making your plans available. Bartop is going to be killer :applaud: :applaud:
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First of all thanks for the compliments and your welcome regarding the sharing of the plans. Hope they help some of you out or inspire others.
Second: no problem on thread hijacking ;) can be quite fun and inspirational at times :afro:
@CoryBee: I use adobe illustrator for my drawings.
Due to some other "chores" ;) I didn't have time to work on the cabinet today. Hope to get some work done tomorrow.
Decided to go for a smaller radius for the edges than the 6,3mm router bit I currently have. Unfortunately they didn't have a smaller radius at the local hardware store so I ordered a 3,2 and 4,8mm radius bit online. Resulting in having to wait another few days before I can get to rounding the edges.
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(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/topicheader.png)
Managed to get some work done today, but not everything turned out like I hoped for :-[ (luckily all fixable).
I routed the monitor panel today:
Since I'm using a guide bush on my router for this I took a few left over pieces of plywood and screwed them onto the monitor panel.
I'm using an 18mm guide bush and a 12mm router bit so I have to screw the plywood 3mm further away from the lines that indicate the screen size (hope that makes sense ;))
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4670.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4670.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4671.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4671.jpg)
Next I started routing in steps of about 5mm in depth until I completely finished the hole for the screen.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4676.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4676.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4679.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4679.jpg)
Since I want to slightly flush mount the monitor I had to move plywood pieces further outside for routing the second stage:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4680.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4680.jpg)
Resulting in the semi-finished panel (already filled the screw holes on these pics):
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4682.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4682.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4684.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4684.jpg)
Test fitting the monitor:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4686.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4686.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4687.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4687.jpg)
After turning it around...:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4689.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4689.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4690.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4690.jpg)
... I discovered that I made 2 mistakes:
- The hole for the monitor panel is about a mm or 2 too wide resulting in the metal edges of the screen being visible.
Going to "fix" this by making the metal edges black.
- Because 18mm of the monitor panel will stick behind the bottom marque panel I had to shift the monitor 18 mm to keep it centered in the visible area of the panel. But I shifted the hole in the wrong direction, resulting in the monitor being way off center :(
Luckily this panel will get painted instead of stained so I've filled the old dowel holes in the narrow side and drilled new ones on the other side (no pictures of this because the filler is drying atm and needs sanding afterwards)
It was raining on and off today and I reckon both mistakes are because of being too hasty, a good lesson not to be next time!
Edit:
Here's one extra picture of the panel back in place after filling and sanding the old dowel holes:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4692.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4692.jpg)
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Just printed out your blue prints....this bad boy is tall for a bartop.......the jigsaw awaits.....
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Just printed out your blue prints....this bad boy is tall for a bartop.......the jigsaw awaits.....
It's not a small one indeed ;) It was never intended to be either >:D
As mentioned it's sort of in between a bartop and a full size without the bottom part.
Looking forward to seeing your progress! Good luck ;)
p.s. I've updated the blueprint with the measurements of the distance between the sidepanels edges and the panels in between and added the panels positions to the 1:1 scaled images as well.
The measurements might seem a bit weird ;) but I designed all of the rectangular panels in such way that they all are a logical size which can result in the edges being slightly "off".
Evo XR Cade Bartop Blueprint 1:10 (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/Blueprints%20Evo%20XR%20Cade%20Bartop.pdf)
Evo XR Cade Sidepanel 1:1 with raster (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/Blueprint%20Evo%20XR%20Cade%20Sidepanel%20with%20raster.pdf)
Evo XR Cade Controlpanel 1:1 with raster (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/Blueprint%20Evo%20XR%20Cade%20Controlpanel%20with%20raster.pdf)
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cool I was wondering if you would post those, i was just gonna eye it....
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cool I was wondering if you would post those, i was just gonna eye it....
Any progress yet? If so I'm very eager for some pics of course >:D
Just as sort of a reference: Someone on another (dutch) forum this project is running on posted a pic of him "testing" his artwork on my photo:
(http://i.imgur.com/hkfuB.jpg) (http://i.imgur.com/2juHf.jpg)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/topicheader.png)
Just finished taking apart the cab, rounding all edges and putting it back together:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4696.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4696.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4707.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4707.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4710.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4710.jpg)
As you can see my plexi for the marquee arrived as well (for the cp as wel but nothing interesting about a square piece that needs work ;)). I've ardered 2 pieces, 4mm thick and 3mm thick and the latter works perfect with my mounting system. 4mm is just a bit too thick and requires some bending to get it in.
Hopefully my speakers (http://www.conrad.nl/ce/nl/product/373006/Baseline-luidspreker-BA-915-EVO/0321150&ref=list) arrive tomorrow so I can do the last woodwork on the top panel. After this I can glue the base together and start working on mounting the monitor, the back door and start working on the cp.
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Did you order your plexi online or from a local store?
This is getting awesome!!!
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Actually, i would like to see a cab made of this type of wood without decals.
Just stained wood. That might be a twist AND more retro than ever..
Thumbs up on your build man, got My attention!
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Following this with attention. Hope for you the pinewood holds itself together, because I had a very nesty experience from this before : this type of boards are just pieces of pinewood glue one to the other (plank I bought must have been poorly assembled and it just fell to bits and pieces..)
Anyway keept it up ! Looks real nice ! :applaud:
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Did you order your plexi online or from a local store?
This is getting awesome!!!
I ordered the plexi at an online store www.bouwplastics.nl (http://www.bouwplastics.nl/)
Thx!
Actually, i would like to see a cab made of this type of wood without decals.
Just stained wood. That might be a twist AND more retro than ever..
Thumbs up on your build man, got My attention!
I have thought about that, but I think some simple artwork just gives it an "extra touch" ;)
Thx as well :cheers:
Following this with attention. Hope for you the pinewood holds itself together, because I had a very nesty experience from this before : this type of boards are just pieces of pinewood glue one to the other (plank I bought must have been poorly assembled and it just fell to bits and pieces..)
Anyway keept it up ! Looks real nice ! :applaud:
First of all it's not pinewood but french oak ;)
I've done a test on a leftover piece and it took me a lot of force to break it apart. Also the monitor panel has very small edges after routing the screen, but it still seems/feels very solid.
And yet again Thx ;D
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Pics are coming soon, I just got a new 7 ft. work table.... :)
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(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/topicheader.png)
Since my speakers didn't arrive yet I decided to do some other work and mounted my monitor today.
Made 4 simple brackets to mount the monitor to the panel:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4731.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4731.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4736.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4736.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4741.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4741.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4742.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4742.jpg)
Next I mounted 4 aluminum brackets for mounting the monitor panel to the cabinet. Found some nice brackets with slot holes which look better than simple steel ones and the slotted holes give me some room to position it precisely.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4745.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4745.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4749.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4749.jpg)
And here it is assembled in the cab:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4751.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4751.jpg)
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Just a question : why not avoiding the monitor screen recessing by routing the insides of the edges of the monitor panel ? This solution would be really more elegant, because you'd have the screen coming just level to the wood and not mounted behind.
I say that because you're going to get reflexions on the eges of the wood. And painting them black is not cool (I did that myself and went back to the solution I mentioned)
Only problem : your monitor seems to be rather a bit too wide to do that. Anyway, this solution might be good...
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:applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
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Just a question : why not avoiding the monitor screen recessing by routing the insides of the edges of the monitor panel ? This solution would be really more elegant, because you'd have the screen coming just level to the wood and not mounted behind.
I say that because you're going to get reflexions on the eges of the wood. And painting them black is not cool (I did that myself and went back to the solution I mentioned)
Only problem : your monitor seems to be rather a bit too wide to do that. Anyway, this solution might be good...
I'm not sure if I get what you mean with this?
If I mount the monitor in such way that it's level with the panel you will see the metal edges of the monitor, which would look bad imho.
To minimize the reflections I've already flush mounted the monitor and round the edges around the screen.
:applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
:cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: ;)
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Okay, it's your call :)
Quote :
To minimize the reflections I've already flush mounted the monitor and round the edges around the screen.
Ok, you'll see for yourself ;D
Your monitor is not well-suited for the solution I suggested (not being perfectly straight around the screen) and which you can find here :
http://bartopmania.com/index.php?t=msg&th=84&start=0& (http://bartopmania.com/index.php?t=msg&th=84&start=0&)
Just a little thing more : On your last photo, the panel has burst open one of the sides..., you must have driven the screw with, I quote you : "A lot of force to break it apart"
:lol
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:cheers:Ermm, not to be a spoil, but as far as i can see that's exactly how I mounted the monitor. I didn't mount it behind the panel but routed out the entire panel so it's closer to the front. The remaining edges are rounded.
And yes I slightly cracked the panel, not because the wood isn't strong enough but most likely because I pre drilled with a drill that was too small for the screws. Next to that the screws are quite close to the edge which increases the risk of cracks as well. It's just a slight crack and easily fixable (which I'll do when I start prepping for paint).
Thx for being so positive :-\
P.s. since you seem to be a real pro compared to us amateurs I'd love to see some of your own flawless and perfect work instead of rough theoretical sketches :dizzy:
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looks great!
keep up the good work ;)
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Your monitor is not well-suited for the solution I suggested (not being perfectly straight around the screen) and which you can find here :
http://bartopmania.com/index.php?t=msg&th=84&start=0& (http://bartopmania.com/index.php?t=msg&th=84&start=0&)
I don't understand how your suggestion is any different than how it was done here or in the other projects where the LCD is attached by routing out a wooden bezel. Could you take a couple pictures to explain what you are saying for further clarification?
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Man, stop all the negativity, this is why people don't bother sharing their work, cause people try to push their own ideas on someone elses project.
I'm sure if he just posted pics of the finished build you wouldn't have much to say about it. He's taking the time to post photos during the build so we can learn new techniques and admire his work, if you keep it up, he's gonna stop posting, and then the rest of us and you lose out.
It's his build and he kindly posted the plans, if you don't like what he's doing grab the plans and top this thread and post so we can bask in your greatness.
Floriske, keep up the good work and do what you think is best, finish your build and i'm sure folks with stop bashing your techniques....
Some folks don't get your showing build process and not a soul on this forum has a perfect build from scratch, most people steal other folks designs you started from scratch.....
Comments and opinions are fine but let's not piss on this fine attempt to build greatness.... :soapbox:
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I'm really enjoying this project. Please keep the updated coming!
I agree that the general tone from folks here needs to be more supportive as well... I too challenged some design decisions and asked questions but kept the tone positive.
SIII + Cyanogen + Tapatalk 2
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(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/topicheader.png)
Not really an update, but more of a teaser of a routing template I've been working on and I hope will work out (need to get myself a new router bit first because the current one is quite blunt and good enough for routing the template, but not for the actual work):
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4759.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4759.jpg)
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Love this bartop... I'm actually going to take his blueprints and make one (or two)... good stuff guy, thanks for sharing!
Anyway to incorporate a rotating LCD in this??? :dunno
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Love this bartop... I'm actually going to take his blueprints and make one (or two)... good stuff guy, thanks for sharing!
Anyway to incorporate a rotating LCD in this??? :dunno
Thx! And your welcome for sharing.
Looking forward to seeing others build it, I'm very curious about different styles.
Reckon a rotating monitor should be possible with a smaller screen size, but I'll leave figuring that out up to you ;)
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(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/topicheader.png)
Curious what the router template was for? Here's the answer.
First of all it was sort of an experiment to see if this type of work could easily be done with a plunge router.
But most important it was for my ventilation- and speaker slots in the back- and top panels:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4762.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4762.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4766.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4766.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4768.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4768.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4771.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4771.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4772.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4772.jpg)
The XR in the center was just a little extra. Since it's the back it won't be really visible, but it was fun to do and ads some extra ventilation to the cabinet ;)
Here they are placed back in the cab:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4777.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4777.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4778.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4778.jpg)
And a last pic of my cheap #55 speakers.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4779.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4779.jpg)
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(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4778.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4778.jpg)
This looks great! Any "lessons learned" in case we try something similar?
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That is too cool...............very unique......
So your speakers will be firing to the top....with magnets facing the monitor
Are your speakers shielded?
Also with so many openings at the back do you think you will have issues with fan noise?
I'm also noticing you don't have any burn marks in your router work, what are you doing to prevent this?
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Beautiful work, i really like the wood you are using and those vents look fantastic!! Now get some surface mounted colored LEDs back there and create some vegas style magic >:D
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That is too cool...............very unique......
So your speakers will be firing to the top....with magnets facing the monitor
Are your speakers shielded?...
Shouldn't be a problem with a lcd ;)
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Oh and by the way, I hardly ever listen to anyone yapping on in my builds about what I 'should' be doing and my cabs seem to turn out ok. At least 50% of my Revolution build was me trying out new ideas and basically winging it and I learned a tonne doing it that way.
Keep shaking your groove thang baby with a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip, you've got this. :afro:
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(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4762.jpg)
Nice work... Lines nice and straight as if you used a cnc router! :applaud:
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Keep shaking your groove thang baby with a glide in your stride and a dip in your hip, you've got this. :afro:
:laugh2:
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First of all thanks for all the compliments :applaud: one of the best motivations to keep on working and posting updates ;)
@kuchta: the most important lesson learned is to tripple check all measurements and to take your time to make the template as accurate as possible.
@rablack97: the speakers won't cause any problems with an LCD monitor (as automark mentioned as well).
Regarding the clean router work, a sharp bit, the right speed (too high rpm will increase the chance in burn marks because the bit can't get rid of the excess saw dust properly which will cause extra friction and thus heat, too low rpm can increase the chance at chipping) and taking your time give the best result. One of the advantages of using a template and a guide ring is that you don't have to plunge through the entire material at once but can do it in steps of a few mm which reduces the risk of burns as well.
@griffindodd: no leds just yet ;) want to try and make the cab blend in with our furniture as much as possible so maybe ... just maybe ... the wife will allow it to have a permanent place downstairs ;)
And no worries about me listening to other people's comments (except for the good ones ofcourse those will be taken into consideration ;)) I have my own ideas and will do it my own way ;) Next to that I have no problem with remarks as long as they are placed in a positive tone instead of just plainly pessimistic.
P.s. sorry for the "unquoted" reply but that makes typing on a phone a lot easier ;)
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(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/topicheader.png)
It's been a while since I posted an update, mainly due to the holidays and being busy with all kind of other stuff. Amongst which "Selling my motion sim".
But picked this up again today and started with making my cp hinge points.
At first I wanted to use standard hinges for this, but thought of a method of creating something my self (which is more fun of course ;)).
Instead of the panel that was cut for this purpose I took a leftover piece with the same length as the original one. It's still a bit too wide but I will cut this to the right size later.
First of all I drilled a hole with my dowel drill on each side of the panel at the point I want the panel to turn:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4794.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4794.jpg)
Next I routed little slots with my bench top drill which has a cross table for simple routing work.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4795.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4795.jpg)
Took a couple of dowels, drilled a 2,5mm hole in them and fitted an m3 hex bolt:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4797.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4797.jpg)
Putting the parts together results in my own "sliding" hinges which makes the cp easily removable when needed.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4801.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4801.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4802.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4802.jpg)
To drill the holes inside the side panels of the cabinet I used a few simple dowel center points.
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Nice simple solution to a problem. Looks neat. :applaud:
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Thx!
Just cut the panel to size, mounted it and glued the cp onto it.
Glue needs to dry, so will post some pics tomorrow.
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Very clever solution! :cheers:
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Great looking build, looking forward to seeing the hardware/xbox install as my next project wll use a xbox to drive it.
:applaud:
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Thx both of you!!
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/topicheader.png)
Yesterday I mounted the hinge panel and glued the cp to it:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4810.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4810.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4814.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4814.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4818.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4818.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4819.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4819.jpg)
Unfortunately I did a slight miscalculation on the hinge point, not a major problem, but I wanted the cp to open up just a bit further than it does now, but yet again not too much because else the joysticks would/could hit the screen.
Still it opens up more than enough to reach the xbox etc. inside the cabinet without having to open the back panel.
The cp will be fit with a gas strut or something similar so it stays open, for now a screw driver will do ;)
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:badmood: And here's another "cracked cp plexi" victim.
In a moment of not paying enough attention I cracked my cp plexi whilst drilling.
Ok, s4! T happens but ......... it was the second to last hole of the 31 in total :timebomb: (one of the admin buttons)
...... bummer ..... but already ordered a new panel and will pay more attention next time ;)
Luckily nothing is wrong with the wood so drilling the new plexi should be done in no time once it arrives. And am going to start with the most tricky holes this time ;)
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:laugh2:get lexan
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Nahh. Plexi is just fine and about half the price.
Just bad luck, never happened to me before and made quite complicated stuff with it.
(http://www.floriske.nl/casemodding/images/xixiv/fotos/thumbs/594photoshoot.jpg) (http://www.floriske.nl/casemodding/images/xixiv/fotos/594photoshoot.jpg)
(http://www.floriske.nl/casemodding/images/core4/fotos/thumbs/059platen.jpg) (http://www.floriske.nl/casemodding/images/core4/fotos/059platen.jpg)
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Awesome project mate! :cheers:
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Awesome project mate! :cheers:
Thx! :cheers:
Guess what happened last night :badmood: ...... cracked my new panel as well :banghead:
• Had it propperly clamped in between my cp and another wood panel for drilling
• on one of the center admin buttons my drill got through the plexi and slightly started pulling itself through
• the panel behind it (which normally should prevent the drill from rappidly pulling itself through the material) broke
• the broken panel caused one of my clamps to release
• due to this the whole slightly tilted ....................... CRACK (only a small crack but still visible after inserting the button.
Almost seems like there's a curse on this panel ;)
First i thought about cuttin out the part with the center 3 admin buttons and make a wood inlay for them, but think I will pick up a piece of lexan instead and use endmills for the normal (non arcade button) holes. A lot more work but don't really feel like messing up another piece of material ::)
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Try a step bit to drill the plexi and then use a router bit to finish the hole. I've tried this and it works like a charm.
Arcade Repair Tips - Drilling Holes In Plexiglass (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rCSz1bWK_Ug#ws)
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Thx for the tip. But I'll be using my 2 flute end mill bits for the smaller holes next time, some more work but that way I'm sure I can't crack the panel again :timebomb:
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:banghead: :banghead:
That used to happen to be before, usually while cutting the last hole.
Even though it's more time consuming I now use my palm router with a small straight router bit and clear out enough room until I can fit my flush trim bit, then it's smooth sailing.
It works for me and the plexi never cracks.
:cheers:
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(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/topicheader.png)
Finally after some drama: some success!
After ruining my plexi twice I decided to go for polystyrene this time (they didn't have thick enough lexan at the local hardware store). This tends to melt a bit faster so I had to drill a bit slower, but doesn't crack as easy as plexi does.
Here are some photo's of drilling the first plexi panel (used somewhat the same proces for the final one)
First I spray glued my cp template onto the wood and pre drilled the holes with a 3mm drill:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4821.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4821.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4823.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4823.jpg)
Next I placed the plexi panel on top and drilled the 2 holes for the joysticks so I could mount the plexi to the wood with 2 hex bolts.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4826.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4826.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4827.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4827.jpg)
After this I drilled all holes into the plexi as well using a battery drill and drilling from the back (through the existing holes in the wood first)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4828.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4828.jpg)
Next step: drilling the buttons. the happ buttons went just fine, but with the smaller admin buttons I messed things up.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4835.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4835.jpg)
So as mentioned I bought a polystyrene panel and redrilled all the holes using the wooden cp as template:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4838.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4838.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4841.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4841.jpg)
Next step: routing the edges with a flush trim bit and rounding them after that.
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Ok, when you kept saying drilled, you weren't joking....
You might try this technique on your next project.
- Use your CP and mark the holes on your plexi
- Then use a piece of scrap and place underneath the marked holes
- Use your drill press to drill holes big enough to clear one of your smaller flush cut router bits, any melting wont matter
- Line the plexi up on the CP again and clamp, the drilled holes should line up over your cp holes, they don't have to be dead center
Then do this.........I have yet to crack a piece yet doing it this way. No scrapes scratches or melting issues.
http://youtu.be/v3528F-awwA
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Thx! But as mentioned it weren't the larger holes causing the cracks. They went just fine. It where the smaller admin button holes (12mm is simply too big to drill with a normal drill, the 8mm led holder holes went ok) which can't really be done with a flush trim bit.
I used a series of drills the first time (making the holes 1mm bigger a time) but the risk of cracks is too big with the larger diameters. So I used a 12mm 4 flute endmill bit this time and that worked just perfect.
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Has anyone tried heating the plexi slightly prior to drilling, figure that would soften it enough to help prevent cracking.
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(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/topicheader.png)
Just routed my cp top.
First I've done some testing since the polystyrene tends to melt and for those ever needing to route this material:
Use a lower speed, work counterclockwise and move fast, that gives the best result.
the pics are directly after routing, no sanding yet and the protective plastic is still on on one side (between the wood and panel), any scratches you see are on the sheet instead of the material itself.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4847.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4847.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4850.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4850.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_4851.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_4851.jpg)
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This is looking sweet Floris! Your build is coming along nice and the attention to detail in your updates is much appreciated. Thanks for taking extra time to go into the detail :applaud:
...and the craftmanship is super professional. Man, that control panel looks damn fine now, as it is.
Can't wait to see it all come together.
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Thx m8!
Always good to hear if one's work is appreciated :cheers:
When I initially started this built I hoped to finish it this month but due to the bad weather, few setbacks and the fact that I'm busy with all kind of other stuff (like doing research on buying a cnc router so I won't have to do so much manual routing next time) it's taking longer than expected.
For the same reason I'm not posting much in other people's topics either. Sorry for that! (am lurking though!)
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(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/topicheader.png)
It's been a while because of the cold weather and I've been busy with all kinds of other stuff, but here's a small update of the project.
First of all I've mounted my speakers.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_0002.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_0002.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_0003.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_0003.jpg)
After that I could measure how much room there was left between the marque and the speakers and route slots for the backpanel of the marque (this wil be removable just like the marque itself)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_0006.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_0006.jpg)
Next to that I've routed a small slot in the top of the front panel (underneath the cp) so when I would like to use normal controllers with the xbox I can route the cable through this slot.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_0009.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_0009.jpg)
Hope to make some more progress the following days.
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One question.
Why the Tiny pics?
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One question.
Why the Tiny pics?
They're pretty good sized if you click on them.
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One question.
Why the Tiny pics?
They're pretty good sized if you click on them.
yeah, you'll be amazed what a little click can lead you to :o
Since I'm replying anyway: this project is still on hold because I got tired of having to do the router work in the cold outside. And even though it's supposed to be spring over here the weather isn't really accordingly :-\ As soon as it gets nice to work outside again I'll pick up the project.
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Yeah it has been really cold for a long time now. And just like you I also have to do all the woodworking outside :hissy: Although today in the sun, and out of wind, I did manage to get some work done. Hope you did as well!
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(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/topicheader.png)
I've put aside some of the other stuff I'm busy with atm and finally did some more work on my bartop.
First of all because my admin panel is 41mm thick (2x18mm wood + 5mm top) I had to route down the backside of it so the happ buttons can be mounted properly:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_0059.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_0059.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_0061.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_0061.jpg)
Next I routed the holes for the joysticks.
First I made a template for the routing work. Since I'm using a 12mm router bit in a 17mm guide bush I had to make the holes in the template 5mm larger than the desired final size.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_0066.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_0066.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_0067.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_0067.jpg)
For correct alignment I drew a cross onto the CP as well as on the templates at the center of each side.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_0070.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_0070.jpg)
First I routed the trough and through holes for the body of the joysticks.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_0073.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_0073.jpg)
And next the ones to flush mount them.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_0076.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_0076.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_0077.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_0077.jpg)
A little offtopic but I think worth showing is my new toy that will arrive in june:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/Foto%27s%20WK%206090%2020%20april%202013/DSC07630_th.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/Foto%27s%20WK%206090%2020%20april%202013/DSC07630.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/Foto%27s%20WK%206090%2020%20april%202013/DSC07631_th.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/Foto%27s%20WK%206090%2020%20april%202013/DSC07631.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/Foto%27s%20WK%206090%2020%20april%202013/DSC07633_th.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/Foto%27s%20WK%206090%2020%20april%202013/DSC07633.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/Foto%27s%20WK%206090%2020%20april%202013/DSC07636_th.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/Foto%27s%20WK%206090%2020%20april%202013/DSC07636.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/Foto%27s%20WK%206090%2020%20april%202013/DSC07638_th.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/Foto%27s%20WK%206090%2020%20april%202013/DSC07638.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/Foto%27s%20WK%206090%2020%20april%202013/DSC07642_th.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/Foto%27s%20WK%206090%2020%20april%202013/DSC07642.jpg)
No more manual router work for this bloke ;)
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No pictures this time, but in the meantime I've also sanded the entire base of the cabinet. So now it's ready for glueing it all together so it can get painted.
A friend of mine has his own upholstery and his brother in law a furniture facture in the same building, that's where the cabinet base will be stained and lacquered in about the same color as our furniture.
The light parts in the design will be painted by myself in the same color as the artwork background.
Another step left to do is drill the holes for the joysticks in the CP top. After this I can trace the entire CP onto paper, scan this and adjust the CP design to match it exactly (in case of shifted holes whilst drilling/routing).
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No pictures this time, but in the meantime I've also sanded the entire base of the cabinet. So now it's ready for glueing it all together so it can get painted.
A friend of mine has his own upholstery and his brother in law a furniture facture in the same building, that's where the cabinet base will be stained and lacquered in about the same color as our furniture.
The light parts in the design will be painted by myself in the same color as the artwork background.
Another step left to do is drill the holes for the joysticks in the CP top. After this I can trace the entire CP onto paper, scan this and adjust the CP design to match it exactly (in case of shifted holes whilst drilling/routing).
Can I ask what type of wood you are using.? And the build has been superb from start to I'm sure the finish. Really enjoyed this build mate, You have some really good skills.
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Thanks for the compliments!
Think I've mentioned this before, but the wood used is 18mm oak.
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Thanks for the compliments!
Think I've mentioned this before, but the wood used is 18mm oak.
I looked again but couldn't see lol..Thanks.
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No problem, you're welcome, small effort to mention it again ;)
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(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/topicheader.png)
Glued the base together so it's now ready for staining/painting.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_0080.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_0080.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_0084.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_0084.jpg)
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(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/topicheader.png)
After a well earned holiday I picked up my cabinet base last wednesday. In the meantime I've mounted my speakers and drilled the last two holes in the CP for the joysticks. Did a quick placement of all buttons etc. just to get an idea what it will look like.
Progress is still slow, but ongoing ;)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1115.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1115.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1120.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1120.jpg)
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Wanted to say thanks for uploading the plans for this !!! - I used them as a base for my new build with a few adjustments (downsized to 75% since I was using a spare 15" monitor (which presented a couple small issues with fitting everything inside that had to be worked around) and removed the overhang on the CP sides leaving the front overhang.) and I really like the way the build came out (Mostly finished now except for the side art and setting up of the front end and software but it is playable . So thanks again for sharing your work.
Couple Pics of my build based on this :
(http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc189/JDFanning_bucket/PICT0113_zps2486c905.jpg)
(http://i212.photobucket.com/albums/cc189/JDFanning_bucket/PICT0119_zps91c1db66.jpg)
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You're welcome JDFan! Good to see that my plans are being used here and there. Nice build.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/topicheader.png)
Yesterday I've picked up my artwork and apllied it. The clearview stickers look great behind the plexiglas and polystyrene:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1144.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1144.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1146.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1146.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1149.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1149.jpg)
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I'm excited to see this come together. This was one of my favorite builds to watch. Good work. Keep it up. :notworthy:
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Where did you print your artwork? As I'm also located in the Netherlands I'm looking for an address to print mine (once I decided the theme and got it designed).
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Thx jdbaily1206!
@EMDB: My neighbor works at a local signage studio (Studio Schoot). He printed the artwork for me.
Since I needed my artwork behind my plexiglass/ polystyrene it is mirror printed on Clearview foil and finished with white laminate.
If you need normal un mirrored artwork you could have a look at www.drukwerkdeal.nl (http://www.drukwerkdeal.nl) They produce printed vinyl at very fair prices.
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Thx jdbaily1206!
@EMDB: My neighbor works at a local signage studio (Studio Schoot). He printed the artwork for me.
Since I needed my artwork behind my plexiglass/ polystyrene it is mirror printed on Clearview foil and finished with white laminate.
If you need normal un mirrored artwork you could have a look at www.drukwerkdeal.nl (http://www.drukwerkdeal.nl) They produce printed vinyl at very fair prices.
Thanks for the tip, I'll definitely try them for my next project.
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Your're welcome. You can find the large format vinyl section here (http://www.drukwerkdeal.nl/nl/producten/stickers/vinyl_stickers_groot_formaat_?ref=navtop)
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(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/topicheader.png)
Spent some time on wiring the control panel today. Damn what a time consuming job :dizzy:
Just reminds me why I do these projects for fun, not for commercial purposes. That would never pay of ;)
First of all the grounding harness:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1151.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1151.jpg)
And fully wired:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1159.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1159.jpg)
Didn't solder the shift and power leds yet but that's peanuts compared to the rest!
Offtopic
Also spent some time on getting to know my CNC machine which arrived on jun 10th:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/fotos/thumbs/IMG_1122.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/fotos/IMG_1122.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/fotos/thumbs/IMG_1125.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/fotos/IMG_1125.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/fotos/thumbs/IMG_1126.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/fotos/IMG_1126.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/fotos/thumbs/IMG_1127.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/fotos/IMG_1127.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/fotos/thumbs/IMG_1128.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/fotos/IMG_1128.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/fotos/thumbs/IMG_1129.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/fotos/IMG_1129.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/fotos/thumbs/IMG_1131.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/fotos/IMG_1131.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/fotos/thumbs/IMG_1132.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/fotos/IMG_1132.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/fotos/thumbs/IMG_1135.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/fotos/IMG_1135.jpg)
But since my spare time is pretty scarce and I want to finish my bartop as well I didn't really get to doing any projects yet. Just some testing.
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/fotos//thumbs/20130627_230258.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/fotos/20130627_230258.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/fotos//thumbs/20130627_230324.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/cnc/fotos/20130627_230324.jpg)
This is a design I made for the backpanel of my bike's sissy bar. I copied the tank emblem and redesigned it to a symmetric version.
Eventualy this will be routed/engrave in a piece of aluminum, but thought it was a nice design for some basic testing as well so I routed it at approx. 25cm wide in a leftover piece of oak.
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Love the wiring job! :cheers:
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Spent some time on wiring the control panel today. Damn what a time consuming job :dizzy:
Just reminds me why I do these projects for fun, not for commercial purposes. That would never pay of ;)
First of all the grounding harness:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1151.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1151.jpg)
And fully wired:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1159.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1159.jpg)
Wow! That's a nice wiring job Floris :applaud: and I had forgotten that you have the prototype KADE's with green PCB. It's great to see them being put to good use :cheers:
Mind if I add your pics to the KADE wiring guide (http://kadevice.com/kade-miniarcade/general-wiring-guide/) for reference?
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Thx guys! Glad you like it, spent quite a few hours on it :dizzy:
@Jon: sure, no problem!
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It's alive! :notworthy:
Soldered the LEDs today and mounted the cp and monitor into the cabinet.
Quickly placed my xbox in it and hooked up the amp and speaker. She works perfectly :applaud:
Will take some pictures tomorrow.
Next step: mounting the door, led strips for the marquee and the amp and tidying the internals
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Thx guys! Glad you like it, spent quite a few hours on it :dizzy:
@Jon: sure, no problem!
That's great Floris, thanks :cheers:
I look forward to seeing more pics.
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Lookin' AWESOME!! Would love to have your toys!!
Adam
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Thx guys!
Pics will follow tonight.
I'm having doubts if painting the monitor bezel light instead of dark was a good idea. Dark might have looked better. But too late to revert it now and it still looks good!
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(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/topicheader.png)
More pics than text because I'm on a short time span here ;)
Mounted the marquee LED strips:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1164.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1164.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1166.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1166.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1171.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1171.jpg)
The lit result needs to become a bit more yellowish, hope I can achieve this by adding some yellowish vinyl behind the artwork.
Mounted my amp on a piece of wood that is stained in the same color as the cabinet (more on this later)
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1173.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1173.jpg)
And the promised quick overview of what it looks like atm:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1177.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1177.jpg)
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Quality, just sheer quality! Well done! ;)
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What did you use to connect the XBOX to the LCD? I've got a console loaded with coinops 5 and this looks like a great way to make use of it.
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Thx Hornet! Still having doubts about the light bezel though. Think I might design some small artwork for it to incorporate it into the design a bit more.
@dmarcum99: It's a Samsung 214T monitor which has an S-Video input which I'm using for the xbox.
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This is a fantastic looking build, really enjoyed looking over it. Sweet looking cnc machine looking forward to see what you turn out with it.
Have you the xbox setup yet, hope you can post details of how you setup the kade/software etc as I am using the same hardware.
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Thx Hornet! Still having doubts about the light bezel though. Think I might design some small artwork for it to incorporate it into the design a bit more.
I wouldn't make it too busy looking, at the moment it looks very clean to the eye. I especially like the light coloured bezel which ties the marquee and the CP together quite nicely. In all, the design is very pleasing on the eye and your attention to detail is first class. For me this is the best bartop design/build I have seen, again well done. ;)
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@robe_uk: Thx!
The setup of the KADE is really super simple. Plug it into your pc, run the software load the xbox profile and custimise to your likings (all I did was add the shift light to the standard config), flash to the device and you're all done.
@hornet: been experimenting with som designs and you are right, applying too much artwork to it takes of the "clean" look. What I designed for now is a very simple label to go at the bottom center of the bezel in the same style as "By floriske.nl" in the marquee. I think this small label will be enough to incorporate the bezel into the rest of the design.
edit which will result in something like this:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1177_BEW.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1177_BEW.jpg)
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/Bezel%20Sticker%20%2B%20Serial%20Plate.jpg)
Not sure yet which one I'll use, the coinops or controls version, and with or withoug stripes, so I have them both printed.
As you can see I also designed a serial plate, got inspired by CoryBee.
Edit 2
I have 2 xboxes: a v1.0 and a v1.6 and I have 2 power cords: One with- and one without surge protector.
Can someone confirm that the cord with surge protector is for the v1.0 and the one without for the v1.6?
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As you can see I also designed a serial plate, got inspired by CoryBee.
8)
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I like the small additional design on the bezel and the serial plate again looks clean, IMHO these are good subtle enhancements.
You really have a good eye for this. So much so, it has given me some ideas for my next build, the one I am currently working on is for the kids. So design wise its with them in mind but my next build I feel should be a classy looking bartop along the lines of what you have achieved here.
Your work is definitely inspirational floriske, thanks for sharing. :cheers:
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Thx again Hornet!
Good to see I give others some inspiration.
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/topicheader.png)
finished tidying up the internals and mounted the back door:
(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1181.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1181.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1182.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1182.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1183.jpg) (http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1183.jpg)
I had some noise on the video signal which turned out to be caused by the 12V psu for the amp and LED strips. Simply connecting a wire between the PSU negative and the monitor chassis solved this. (the black wire you see running to one of the vesa mounting holes).
With this the project is just about done ;D
All that's left to do is:
- Open the xbox and solder the power and eject wiring for the CP
- The little artwork detail on the bezel (decided to try and print this myself on our OKI laser at work on waterslide decal paper which I ordered today)
- The serial plate. For this I have some leftover "stainless steel" decoration foil onto which I will stick the design, once again on waterslide decal paper.
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floriske, one question do the discs eject through an opening in the bartop? Or do you have to lift CP to change games?
You should be really pleased with your results and it should bring you years of fun, well done!
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The disc ejects inside the cabinet. So I have to open the CP to reach it, but since the CP has hinges to open it this is no problem.
And ..... thx again ;)
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Decided that I'm most likely going to add 2 more buttons.
Two more ......... yeah, two more :laugh2:
Been playing some pure pinball last night and playing with the LT and RT buttons on the CP isn't as much fun as when I would have side buttons.
So I'm most likely going to add two extra black buttons on the sides, parallel wired to the P1 LT and RT buttons.
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OH no.....s-video is boo boo....
use these and get 720p resolution.....
http://compare.ebay.com/like/200477246021?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar (http://compare.ebay.com/like/200477246021?var=lv<yp=AllFixedPriceItemTypes&var=sbar)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/1080P-RGB-YPbPr-Component-to-VGA-Audio-Video-Converter-/00/s/NzA0WDc0MA==/$T2eC16RHJH8E9qSEVnvVBQtFmb4h4Q~~60_3.JPG)
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-MICROSOFT-XBOX-AV-COMPONENT-CABLE-FOR-HIGH-DEF-HD-/190848095827?pt=US_Video_Game_Cables_Adapters&hash=item2c6f6ed653 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-MICROSOFT-XBOX-AV-COMPONENT-CABLE-FOR-HIGH-DEF-HD-/190848095827?pt=US_Video_Game_Cables_Adapters&hash=item2c6f6ed653)
(http://i.ebayimg.com/t/NEW-MICROSOFT-XBOX-AV-COMPONENT-CABLE-FOR-HIGH-DEF-HD-/00/s/MjYwWDUxMA==/z/kloAAMXQTT9Rpnkc/$(KGrHqFHJEIFGNPPK6k(BRpnkcLoBg~~60_12.JPG)
I use these on all of my builds and the resolution is gorgeous.....
Although on my current build i have some signal noise and for the life of me i can't find out where it's coming from, how did you troubleshoot to find out where the issue was so you knew what to ground properly?
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Would the Gonbes 8200 work for this application?
They're under $30 shipped on fleabay and thought it could be an alternative. ???
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yep was just looking at those today, some of the models have dual vga output....
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Thx for the tip Rablack97!
Although the type that you posted is a lot more expensive if I want it shipped to the Netherlands.
I found these instead:
Single output:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/HD-Video-Converter-Board-HD9800-GBS8200-Arcade-Game-VGA-RGB-CGA-EGA-YUV-/400422239695?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d3b067dcf (http://www.ebay.com/itm/HD-Video-Converter-Board-HD9800-GBS8200-Arcade-Game-VGA-RGB-CGA-EGA-YUV-/400422239695?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item5d3b067dcf)
$ 29,- incl. shipping.
Dual output:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-RGB-CGA-EGA-YUV-to-VGA-Arcade-HD-Video-Converter-Board-abb-/190854005923?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c6fc904a3 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-RGB-CGA-EGA-YUV-to-VGA-Arcade-HD-Video-Converter-Board-abb-/190854005923?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2c6fc904a3)
$ 29,99 incl shipping
Think these are the Gonbes dmarcum99 was refering to, will these do as well?
Edit: just noticed on the pcb's that the single output version can be powered with 5-12V DC and the dual version somehow is 5V only.
Since I have a 12V psu in my cabinet the single output version would be the better choice for me.
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Yes those should work fine...A friend of mine showed me those a few days ago, I ordered 1 to check it out....
Here's the same one cheaper....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Arcade-game-RGB-CGA-EGA-YUV-to-VGA-HD-video-converter-board-HD9800-GBS8200/360690521769?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D261%26meid%3D8862333107307474786%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D1088%26rk%3D2%26sd%3D190854005923%26 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Arcade-game-RGB-CGA-EGA-YUV-to-VGA-HD-video-converter-board-HD9800-GBS8200/360690521769?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D261%26meid%3D8862333107307474786%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D1088%26rk%3D2%26sd%3D190854005923%26)
Here's nice video reviewing it....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rlmFCToi16w
Also, you could use one of these and plug it into the PSU of the xbox and pull 5v or 12 from the splitter.....
(http://www.atxpowersupplies.com/images/ysplitter-master-350x350.jpg)
I do this for the amp, marquee and the and any led's i have for my xbox builds....
If you don't want to decase just drill a small hole in the case and feed the 5v and ground thru it to the video card.
Not sure if you hard modded or soft modded, if you soft modded i have a cool way to bypass the flubber and the xbox noise using the kades and a relay.....
Let me know if interested.....
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I use a mayflash ypbpr to vga box i got from ebay from a seller in the Netherlands, came to about £10 delivered. I think they are sold under different brand names.
(http://cdn-images.sewelldirect.com/products/SW-5997/SW-5997.jpg)
It needs 6v to run so i just used a 7906 voltage regulator branched of the 12v line
If using something like this you need to enable progressive scan by switching regions to NTSC.
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@rablack97 I'd be interested to see how u bypassed the Xbox startup
Cheers Rob
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The flubber can be bypassed with a modchip/TSOP or you can hide it by delaying the monitor switching on by a timer relay.
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@rablack97 I'd be interested to see how u bypassed the Xbox startup
Cheers Rob
Rob, there is a built in delay function on KADE and you can specify the delay time in seconds. After the delay one of the KADE pins will output about +5V DC power which you can use to power 5V items. You can connect a 5V relay to control power switching to your monitor and/or amp.
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@rablack97 I'd be interested to see how u bypassed the Xbox startup
Cheers Rob
Rob, there is a built in delay function on KADE and you can specify the delay time in seconds. After the delay one of the KADE pins will output about +5V DC power which you can use to power 5V items. You can connect a 5V relay to control power switching to your monitor and/or amp.
Yes, this is the way to do it for softmods. Hardmods per Johns advice can be done TSOP etc, i just have no experiencing flashing and or messing with the bios....
Although what i have found if the xbox does not like to have amps powering on after the delay, the surge causes the xbox to shut off. If your pulling 12v from the xbox psu, the amp needs to come on at the same time the xbox does.
So what i did was use the KADE to fire a 5v DPDT relay, to send 5v to the video card, and the complete the signals in between each speaker. So you have + or - speaker inputs going into the relay from the speaker and the other out to the amp.
Here is the diagram, its a bit plain but you get the idea.
(http://i.imgur.com/xqjk2C1.jpg)
I have my KADE set to about 25 secs booting straight into COINOPS for complete invisibility, to boot to a dash its about 15 secs....
I use a mayflash ypbpr to vga box i got from ebay from a seller in the Netherlands, came to about £10 delivered. I think they are sold under different brand names.
(http://cdn-images.sewelldirect.com/products/SW-5997/SW-5997.jpg)
It needs 6v to run so i just used a 7906 voltage regulator branched of the 12v line
If using something like this you need to enable progressive scan by switching regions to NTSC.
This looks to be discontinued and those that do have it, sell if for around USD50.00...
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.....
Although on my current build i have some signal noise and for the life of me i can't find out where it's coming from, how did you troubleshoot to find out where the issue was so you knew what to ground properly?
Sorry, I missed that question earlier on.
I just started unplugging stuff and when I unplugged the audio signal from the amp the noise was gone. So it had to be the amp causing problems. Since DC adapters have a "floating ground" it would most likely be solved with grounding the negative pole and it did.
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sweet thx...
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Yes those should work fine...A friend of mine showed me those a few days ago, I ordered 1 to check it out....
Here's the same one cheaper....
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Arcade-game-RGB-CGA-EGA-YUV-to-VGA-HD-video-converter-board-HD9800-GBS8200/360690521769?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D261%26meid%3D8862333107307474786%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D1088%26rk%3D2%26sd%3D190854005923%26 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Arcade-game-RGB-CGA-EGA-YUV-to-VGA-HD-video-converter-board-HD9800-GBS8200/360690521769?rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222002%26algo%3DSIC.FIT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D261%26meid%3D8862333107307474786%26pid%3D100005%26prg%3D1088%26rk%3D2%26sd%3D190854005923%26)
Here's nice video reviewing it....
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rlmFCToi16w
Also, you could use one of these and plug it into the PSU of the xbox and pull 5v or 12 from the splitter.....
(http://www.atxpowersupplies.com/images/ysplitter-master-350x350.jpg)
I do this for the amp, marquee and the and any led's i have for my xbox builds....
If you don't want to decase just drill a small hole in the case and feed the 5v and ground thru it to the video card.
Not sure if you hard modded or soft modded, if you soft modded i have a cool way to bypass the flubber and the xbox noise using the kades and a relay.....
Let me know if interested.....
Do not buy these pieces of garbage for Xobx applications, i will be the guinea pig. I purchased one and the quality, picture is terrible.
The prior models i mentioned are plug and play and way more reliable with virtually no tweaks to get it to work. I am returning mine...
FYI
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Too late :hissy:
I bought one and won the auction of a second one because I didn't expect to win it with the bid I placed.
I've been reading pretty ok reviews about it though, just as long as you take your time to get the settings right.
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Please let me know what you find out and if you get it working......
From what i see, it doesn't play well with the component cable to vga....
Here are some good reviews which you may have already read, after reading, it seems this board is unstable, and is power finicky. Also I found out the newer boards have the dual vga output, so not sure which one you ordered.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=123399.0 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=123399.0)
I played around with the settings, but it was just awful right out of the box....The reds were terrible, it was blurry, the screen jumped and the signal flickered to black screen.
Also in one of the write-up 5v 2amps is the recommended power input 12v seems to heat up the board pretty good.
I'm going back to my bread and butter, it runs fine off of the xbox 5v and there's no tweaking and the picture/resolution looks good, i will pay 5-6 more for that stability.
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Super apologies, it works..........
This was a mistake on my part....I have 6 xboxes in my closet and the one i hooked up to just so happened to have the softmod vga hack installed, so the card was fighting the hack. :banghead: :banghead: :banghead:
I hooked it up to a different xbox and voila, perfect output.....so all i well....
:applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
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That's great news!
Thx a lot for being a Guinea pig :applaud:
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No worries, i have a few builds in the works the would of needed these guys anyhow....
Although be careful with the 12v its been know to overheat the boards.
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Hi, this is my first post here. And it is to thank you. All your posts have been my reference to start my work on my bartop !
As JDFan I 've made some adjustments but the evo XR was my inspiration !
By the way, the final picture (in big size) of your control panel's sticker is missing, it is hard to understand what is the use of the little buttons:p ).
2 little pictures of the work in progress of one of the evo XR child ;)
(http://imageshack.us/scaled/thumb/24/1vzp.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/24/1vzp.jpg/)
(http://imageshack.us/scaled/thumb/27/e0ee.jpg) (http://imageshack.us/photo/my-images/27/e0ee.jpg/)
There will be a little surprise with my bartop, more informations soon ;)
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Hi, this is my first post here. And it is to thank you. All your posts have been my reference to start my work on my bartop !
As JDFan I 've made some adjustments but the evo XR was my inspiration !
By the way, the final picture (in big size) of your control panel's sticker is missing, it is hard to understand what is the use of the little buttons:p ).
2 little pictures of the work in progress of one of the evo XR child ;)
There will be a little surprise with my bartop, more informations soon ;)
You should create your own topic for this...
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You should create your own topic for this...
???
I'm not going to create a new topic to say "thank you"...
But yes there will be a topic about my work in progress (these are two differents things).
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Just a quick status update for those who might be curious ;)
In the meantime I've been busy with my CNC router and didn't spend much time on finishing this project, but did make some progress.
I've created an external molex connection on the xbox for the yuv-vga converter and soldered wires to the power and eject buttons for external use as well (the small buttons on the cp).
So now all that's left is mounting and connecting the yuv-vga converter.
I want to mount it onto the vesa mounting holes of the monitor for which I need to route an adapter on my cnc router.
Currently I'm working on an upgrade of my CNC machine bed, so that needs to be finished first.
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This thread is the reason why I'm now piecing together a xbox bartop :)
Do you have any pictures of how the hardware is laid out inside?
Amazing craftsmanship!
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You can see this in the 3d pic in this post:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,123039.msg1371207.html#msg1371207 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,123039.msg1371207.html#msg1371207)
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(http://dl.dropbox.com/u/72592758/bartop/topicheader.png)
Time to call this project "Done!"
After playing around with my cnc router a lot I decided that it was time to finish this project.
A few small things still had to be done.
First of all the serial plate and bezel "logo":
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_3010.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_3010.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_3012.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_3012.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_3018.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_3018.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_3022.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_3022.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_3024.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_3024.jpg)
Next the component to vga converter (glad I decided to go for this instead of s-video, picture is way better):
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_3028.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_3028.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_3031.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_3031.jpg)
And a small dimmer for the marque led strips:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_3033.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_3033.jpg)
And with that it's finally finished:
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1899.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1899.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1903.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1903.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1905.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1905.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1906.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1906.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1910.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1910.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1917.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1917.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/thumbs/IMG_1931.jpg) (https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1931.jpg)
Thanks everybody, for all the help and inspiration!! And special thanks to the people of KADE and Arcadewinkel.nl
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All right. Now this...
(https://dl.dropboxusercontent.com/u/72592758/bartop/IMG_1917.jpg)
...is just ridiculous. Oh my god, dude. This looks fantastic, right down to the last detail.
Very slick.
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Very, very nice. :cheers:
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Finally, you finished it ;D
It looks awesome, well done sir :applaud:
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@Rick: Thx, but it's not flawless though, since it's all done by hand with a normal router
@emphatic and edekoning: Thx guys, took me a while to finish it, but am very pleased with the result!
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@Rick: Thx, but it's not flawless though, since it's all done by hand with a normal router
Do you want people to hate you?
;)
You're nuts. The fact that this is all done by hand is proof that artisans still exist. You're one, and you should be proud. We all stand on your shoulders, and the shoulders of those like you.
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Nah, I'm a lovable person :blah:
Thx for all the feathers up my :censored: now I've got a terrible itch next to pain in the shoulders :laugh2:
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Very nice.
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Just a quick question. How did you power your component > vga adapter? Drawing from the xbox psu?
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Indeed.I added a simple molex splitter between the hdd power connector.
Took off one connectors so I could run the wires through the fan cover.
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First of all compliments for your project ! I follow this for my bartop (pc bartop) and if i can i want ask you a thing: where can i find the small buttons (power,exit,eject) ?
I searched on many shop + ebay but can not find them :embarassed:
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First of all compliments for your project ! I follow this for my bartop (pc bartop) and if i can i want ask you a thing: where can i find the small buttons (power,exit,eject) ?
I searched on many shop + ebay but can not find them :embarassed:
Ebay has these listed : ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-3A-125V-1A-250V-Momentary-SPST-N-O-BLACK-Round-Cap-Push-Button-Switch-2929-/291043694872?pt=US_Surveillance_Cables_Adapters_Connectors&hash=item43c38e5918 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-3A-125V-1A-250V-Momentary-SPST-N-O-BLACK-Round-Cap-Push-Button-Switch-2929-/291043694872?pt=US_Surveillance_Cables_Adapters_Connectors&hash=item43c38e5918) ) $8 shipped for 5 switches.
(http://i.ebayimg.com/00/s/NTAwWDUwMA==/z/vZkAAOxy4dNSuPrs/$_12.JPG)
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Ebay has these listed : ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-3A-125V-1A-250V-Momentary-SPST-N-O-BLACK-Round-Cap-Push-Button-Switch-2929-/291043694872?pt=US_Surveillance_Cables_Adapters_Connectors&hash=item43c38e5918 (http://www.ebay.com/itm/5pcs-3A-125V-1A-250V-Momentary-SPST-N-O-BLACK-Round-Cap-Push-Button-Switch-2929-/291043694872?pt=US_Surveillance_Cables_Adapters_Connectors&hash=item43c38e5918) ) $8 shipped for 5 switches.
Had not seen them, thanks 1000 :notworthy:
Only another thing: if I'm not mistaken happ buttons require holes from 28mm right?
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Those are the buttons indeed.
I used 29mm holes for the happ buttons, but 28 is advised.
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Only another thing: if I'm not mistaken happ buttons require holes from 28mm right?
Happ button holes are 1 1\8 inch or 1.125inches which is equivalent to 28.575mm - so 28mm sounds about right (better slightly smaller @28mm than slightly too big @29mm )
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Happ button holes are 1 1\8 inch or 1.125inches which is equivalent to 28.575mm - so 28mm sounds about right (better slightly smaller @28mm than slightly too big @29mm )
Thanks ;)
Those are the buttons indeed.
I used 29mm holes for the happ buttons, but 28 is advised.
Thanks, and compliments again, for me your bartop is perfect for 2 player, love the CP :applaud:
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Hello Floriske.
Magnificent work. :cheers:
Worthy of praise, very delicate and precise.
You'd be so kind as to show a shorter video of its operation, especially control panel and lights.
Thank you very much.
Carlos.
:applaud:
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I found this thread while doing a google search and I absolutely love this cab! Amazing work! Was curious if you have the CP and Marquee artwork in a photoshop file or some tips to getting that layout printed?