The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Arcade Collecting => Pinball => Topic started by: jennifer on July 19, 2012, 01:13:30 am
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Just thought Id share some pics of my new project
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Hey Saint where is the fire hose
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OMG
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High speed 2,
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No smoking please
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:blowup:
Why would you torture yourself like that? wow...
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"Hot" is an understatement... I think that ones more like "crispy".
And you're actually going to take that on as a restoration <cough>rebuild</cough> ?
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I'm a major glutton for punishment and even I'd pause to reflect before letting that in the shop. Is anything saveable? boards? harness? those ribbon cables look like they're toasted to perfection.
Is the project to gut it and make a virtual pin?
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Maybe her "project" is to BURY it? :dunno
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It was part of a insurance thing (came with 7 other games) Those unfortunately were boxes of ashes....This one however, shouldn't be so bad.
The playfield isn't scorched, and the wiring is salvageable, I dont think Jen would ever trust those boards again though, even should I get them to fire up.
I have followed the advancements on the VP scene, Some amazing builds to be sure, But jennifer still loves her original cabs, even in this cond. it would
break my heart to see it converted....Not counting the ash boxes, This one puts me at
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Let's see pics of 1-108.
:stupid
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#2 (in progess) Galaxy....The playfield is being preped for the new art
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Holy..... I've seen some amazing restorations on fire damaged pinball machines, but man! What are you going to do with the baords in the backbox?
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How are you going to re-art the Galaxy pf? overlay?
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The boards in the high speed will get replaced as Jennifer can find them, (may even have a set down in the storage) The ones I cant obtain will get repopulated
I spose ,Its going to be a long painful project to be sure. This isnt my first one however these are the kind of machines I save.
The Galaxy.... The PF on the bench is getting an overlay and clear, Its sister PF is getting touched up with a micron.
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Who's printing overlays for stuff like that? or is it something someone did a run of in the past? I'm interested because I want to re-art a machine one of these days.
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Somebody in the artwork section Im guessing.... They quit talking to Jennifer a long time ago....I will say here however, Scan EVERYTHING, And a plot/cutter
is a must for cutting all those holes.
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#3.... Rock-ola 440, This was a fire victim too, the whole left side has been replaced...Awaiting reassembly now that the hard part is over. This one probably should have had a thread of its own, sorry no before pics
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#4 - 96..... random shots out back, The speakers (Seburg) are huge, so Jennifer counts them too
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:o
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You wanted pics so whatever.....There not all broke either, some are quite nice. So bla,bla,bla....
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What do you recommend then, Maybe I should slop on some mop and glow and call them done?
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What do you recommend then, Maybe I should slop on some mop and glow and call them done?
I recommend that you pack up a few of those, bring them over, and drop them off here so they can get some regular playtime and the loving that they deserve.
;)
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Thanks for the pics, a lot of cool stuff there. :cheers:
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None of these machines are being neglected, They are all slated for high level restorations. Some were destined for the graveyard, others put away back
in the day. As for playing a game at a moments notice....Not going to happen here, Jennifer doesnt like playing games anymore, Its all about preserving
the history for future generations, and just saving some old machine....BTW Well fed games, Thank you.
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Takes a lot of work, dedication, initiative and perseverance to do what you do, keep up the good work! :applaud:
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welp time to start a "projects-we-never-finished-but-still-plan-on-finishing-someday-pictures-of-it-all-piled-up" thread ;D
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And what better place than in the middle of Jennifers thread.....That is so very convenient, now I dont have to document this (or any)
projects, or give back to the byoac community. ( nevermind the picture that was part of a update) So there you guys go this thread is
all yours.
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I'm just curious why you type in the 3rd person perspective
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Borg.
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Borg.
Borked?
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Borg.
Borked?
Borg.
(http://www.ieet.org/images/uploads/sevenofnine2_thumb.jpg)
Resistance is futile.
Jennifer will refer to her in the third person but lilshawn will refer to me in the First person making everything by all accounts as to who is talking to who...because it will sound like I'm taking about lilshawn when he's actually talking about me.
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I'm just curious why you type in the 3rd person perspective
It helps PBJ remember that she's the dual when he's posting as Jennifer. >:D
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I know what a borg is... I'm saying "borked".
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badum ching?
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I'm just happy I got to use that version of "dual" in a sentence :duckhunt
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I'm just curious why you type in the 3rd person perspective
WP34 was wondering the same thing.
Actually my teenage daughter does the same thing. Drives me bananas.
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Do you guys feel better now....You just make me want to cry. :cry:
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Do you guys feel better now....You just make me want to cry. :cry:
your assimilation makes me sad (T~T)
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Are you still crying?
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Jennifer just needs to tell these guys to STFU. :cheers:
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Jennifer likes that....Ya STFU off, (dumbheads). Anyway back to the Getaway...That pic. is an aftermarket translite (Got one for my B/day)
Its a little naughty, not original and the speed sign is on the wrong side of the street. I do like it however, I did also find the PDF file for the
original art in case I do change my mind (opinions?)....I also obtained the revolving cop light assembly for the top, a hard to find part.
The wood on top is pretty burnt and will have to be changed.
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This is not a build thread merely a update for some of you who might remember this machine, and were curious as to its fate.... After a detailed analysis, it seems the whole machine was apparently built quickly and cheaply (at the factory) Not really designed to withstand the ravages of time, (more like disposable and cost saving.) add to that the water damage from the fire guys, and dry rot set in, So, Jennifer late in the nights, has built a new cabinet of maple .... So yes it is in good hands and will live again. 8)
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Mods....
Normally I find mods incredibly lame, clammy trash (*Laughs a bit, No not you PL1)...However,
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:pics
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Not really much to see yet, just a new cab and boxes of parts to be fitted.... But to the curious, Next weekend is its first day outside, so I"ll do some just for you. ;D
Now the bad news, HS2 apparently has some kind of sub culture of hoarders, because the boards are like really hard to find, So in the interest of running OEM, I had to source a MPU from Dracula, and replace the driver boards with aftermarket (so far) only found about half of them.... And the wire, still in shock on that subject.
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This is not a build thread merely a update for some of you who might remember this machine, and were curious as to its fate.... After a detailed analysis, it seems the whole machine was apparently built quickly and cheaply (at the factory) Not really designed to withstand the ravages of time, (more like disposable and cost saving.) add to that the water damage from the fire guys, and dry rot set in, So, Jennifer late in the nights, has built a new cabinet of maple .... So yes it is in good hands and will live again. 8)
yes. the entire pinball lineup is made to be assembled as quickly as possible. in fact, the IDC connectors, (chosen for their ease of use and speed of installation) are the most common source of failure in the history of connectors.
the cabinets are stamped out as fast as possible, lots aren't even glued... just stapled.
you have part numbers of boards/parts you are looking for? i think I have a getaway that was trashed a number of years ago.
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I work on multiple machines all at once, and next to this is a pre war Wurlitzer, It is like culture shock to go from old world German craftsmanship to this pile, Sometimes I get so depressed Jenn has to just leave And get a cherry Slurpee, So your unbiased opinion validates my analysis and I AM NOT CRAZY!.... However not to poo on this "holy grail", Doing it better is easier said than done, The top of HS2 is actually quite complex and in hindsight of my cab build should have been milled first and then assembled (that's why next weekend it goes outside to remove the top.)... Yes baby makes mistakes too. ::)
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No pics, no Highspeed.
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After you put your posts back in this thread.... >:D
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edit
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Wow, that looks amazing.
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Nice work!
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When you ask Jen to send nudes, she delivers! :applaud:
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My new favorite build thread. 99% better than half the stuff we see get CNCed.
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My new favorite build thread. 99% better than half the stuff we see get CNCed.
(https://i.pinimg.com/originals/86/43/cf/8643cf07be50cc3c2a27fb34646bbf5c.jpg)
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schmexy
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Oh you guys are so sweet to honey, Thx.
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(http://)Jennifer FUN DAY, the top is done (in oak, don't ask) a little putty, and it's first coats of interlock!
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Did you really make a backbox out of an entertainment center?
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Did you really make a backbox out of an entertainment center?
Not really sure where that came from....But no, that's the real deal, Built from scratch with cured and dried maple ply, The top beings it is actually quite complex was made with oak. The pic doesn't do it justice. (Sorry about that).
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I guess people are so used to seeing other cut up cheap woodgrain particleboard here, that seeing real veneered wood causes them pain. ;D
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Damn it did I miss yet ANOTHER picture of jennifer?
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Some primer....
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Carefully sanded with love....
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And finally the first of 3 color coats....
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If you look real closely you can just about see the reflection of the Photographer in the paintwork, Jennifer? :applaud: :applaud: :applaud:
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Oh yes that's me, little dizzy from paint fumes, and taking bad pics late in the night, (sorry about that) Jenn should have done some kind of "celibration" pose for the ocasion, cause that thing came out really nice. ;)
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Sanded again....
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And painted again, one more to go....
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And now that there is mil thickness and cured, the back and sides are color sanded....
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Some sideart.....
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Nice job!
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Thx, I was beginning to think nobody was watching this.... The work it was fun, but not done yet, The cab and playfield need to be addressed next before this gets too far.
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oh.... we watch.... don't you worry.
and judge.... ALWAYS JUDGING
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Did that sideart come pre-faded?
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oh.... we watch.... don't you worry.
and judge.... ALWAYS JUDGING
**Jenn gets worried....No that's not faded Pbj its just under bright work lights, and not an awesome pic. I will try another one please.
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I’m not trying to be snarky, you’ve done very good work on this. It looks faded, though. Some suppliers had issues with this...
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I didn't think snark, and Jenn needs all the help she can get with this thing, (Now I will be worried about color too, THX ::)) ....If you look closely the edges are cut back onto the cab about 3/16" so it can be painted again (to hide the cut edge, and bring it up to sticker level before clear).... I don't have a color match to compare this thing to as a real machine, so not real sure what to do at this point if the color is wrong.
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Well PBJ, you certainly have a discerning eye for pins, I made a few calls and got a pantone color code and you are right, the color is not quite as red as it should be although its close, and apparently the original machines (and aftermarket decals ) did suffer from bad cases of fade, most likely the red pigments were the culprit.... Since this was a smoldering basket case money suck I think Ill just live with it, The vinyl seems quality screen and the clear will help protect it from UV going into the future.
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its just a little off, nothing I couldnt live with.
Hows the PF?
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That was a surprise twist to this story, Its NASTY, horrible in fact, such a shame for such a low mileage machine. Currently, Jenn Is building a rotisserie out of 2 engine stands (Ill show that project) but the good news is I got lucky on parts and found a repro P/F. so this will be a swap.... of sorts.
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Heres the spinner project, If you got some vision.... Its actually 2 foldable engine stands, getting trimmed out in stainless. I don't know if this has ever been done before, but it will certainly be industrial heavy duty when its done. So far its been all bolt together (no welding).
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The playfield...
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That's pretty much how that game looked on location. :lol
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I know right, makes you wonder why some of those coin guys didn't at least clean there stuff sometimes...Ive never played hs2 Maybe it sucks whos to say, saw one working on the utubes (it looks fun), Jenn is curious about the condition of this under all that soot, It was protected from smoldering ash by the glass.... The the temper in the glass, also makes me nervous, When those things pop it is ugly, But for now don't have a spare one.
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And you haven't dragged some Novus down it already because....?
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And you haven't dragged some Novus down it already because....?
...it should be vacuumed off first?
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You make that sound easy ::).... It needs to be stripped and washed with naptha first, (not to mention it has a new P/F) But time is issue, this project so far almost beat me down, it was quite complex and pushed my limits.
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You bought a new PF without checking the condition of the old one?
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But time is issue
Time aint so hard, Lock yourself in the dungeon and don't come out till your done
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You bought a new PF without checking the condition of the old one?
I did, it was just so pretty, The original one apparently had diamond plate on it as opposed to clearcoat, A girl just cant ever have enough P/fs around right? 8).... As for you Malenco, I see where your going with that, But don't forget Jenn builds a dozen machines at a time, not crying over just one.
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Jemmifer, shouldn't you be in a dungeon finishing this pin?
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***Jennifer laughs and summons her monkeys....I am actually.
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night work....
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4oz of black....
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Some clear...
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WIPE OFF THE PLAYFIELD
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I am getting to that (heres a peek at the new one).... However Jennifer has been talking about paint for years and nobody seems to understand the concept of what I say so for now its all about getting this thing to assembly.
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**Mid project observations.... The backbox corner bracket carriage bolts are a odd 1/2 size, with smooth heads non-the less, Don't know what Williams was thinking there, perhaps made there own hardware?, Anyway replacements are at best with minimal markings an the head. Since this isn't really a restoration that could be considered fine, But Jenn has opted for cut/chrome and etch and paint the heads (If anyone wants to watch that process I will post on that) if not that is the plan.... CIRCUT BOARD PANEL: this got deep, I was going to replace it with aluminum however the standoff holes are 3/8" square, too small for a chassis punch, and (I don't have a turret press anymore) Also the aluminum has a dissimilar metal potential (sped up by the voltage is to carry) so connections could be compromised, solution, The old one (a little bit heat warped) is going to be replated in zink/and clear chromate like most likely it was originally. And finally the wire harness, this after some reverse engineering apparently was constructed in sub assemblies and put together to be one harness spiderwebing throughout the whole machine. This explains how Jenn hasn't been able to find any backbox wire, The solution is an ugly prospect, and is going to require a few new tools for Jennifers workbench.
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hurry up and finish this so I can buy it off of you
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hurry up and finish this so I can buy it off of you
And demand free shipping? :P
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Free shipping?? ???
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How many HDMI ports does it have, and will it fit in my basement?
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Have to revise my plans.... The new light board may have to be modified a tad to better accommodate a color Lcd dmd which is physically larger than the original plasma or Led screen,Apparently it does just fit right in, but it seems to come awfully close to the speakers (especially the 2 /5"coax upgrade) and physically overhangs the top of the Dmd panel barely clearing the light board.... which apparently has a sagging problem by design when the bushings wear out (and will be a bit heavier with mirror grade stainless on the back of it) You can see what I mean at the 4 min mark here, https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dmDXzITV-WY (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dmDXzITV-WY) also the chrome guy is having some troubles with the new hardware .So for now the back box is done and waiting for parts to fit,.... new plans will be moving on to the cab.
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Anyway, Got some time so lets move this project forward.... Before this the cab goes to paint it needs some work, Mods in particular, (*Not easily reversible). So any purists, may want to look the other way, And as a disclaimer to my friends who expect faithful restores, Well Jenn is ashamed and embarrassed but this machine was less that desirable as built and IMO needs some upgrades So lets at least do them as right as possible And incorporate as not easily reversible given this is my first attempt at such needless butchering..... Here we have the Stainless steel anti theft cable blocks for the undercab lighting, If anyone wants to see the fab process speak up as this is all "real" time,(*Except Mike A, since this is going to be welded, and don't want to offend him >:D) ...or that's just the plan for now,
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While Jenn does that, this may a good time to talk about equipment. There is nothing magical here, in fact most of this was done outside in the driveway on a 100 dollar tablesaw, a router (using sawboards and jigs)and a little compressor from W/mart. Working with stainless steel gets a little more advanced however given the difficulty of working with it but it is going well.... The point being, building stuff is fun and you do not need high end stuff to do it nice, you simply just need to know the limitations of what your tools can do so you can do it safely.
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Jenn feels you guys missed out on a really fun adventure in fab, it was quite a harsh experience, But almost done, Cut, cleaned, sanded, fit drilled, TIG welded, and polished stainless..... We will move on to the Dmd panel, and the sub speaker mount pad next (more Mods ::)).
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Quit smoking.
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Quit smoking.
So sorry, But Im not interested....Go buy a welder.
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Hmmm, we have a curious problem now, so POP QUIZ!!!.... The speaker hole was drilled at 5.50" before it was assembled, as per original, However the new speaker is 8" (7" across the cone) but HOW to modify the hole could be tricky....Any thoughts?
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Fasten a piece of wood behind the hole. It will give you something to bite into in the center of the hole.
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Yes that would work, But 3 things come to mind. That extends the pilot bit 1/2" before it even touches, and could be a "wobbly" start, and #2, the means of fastening it would have to be carefully done as to not create damage to the outside the hole area and #3 finding center could be considered overly complex.... Close, really close Mike, In fact Jenn will give you that one. but there is another answer, A plug close cut IN the hole , wedged in with toothpicks and set with epoxy. and then cut from both sides to minimize splintering ;)
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So with that in mind, I have to cheat this a little in terms of using budget backyard machines on this.... Jenn wants that pilot hole as strait as possible (in hardwood) and had to use a machine so it didn't break my wrist again.
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cut the right size hole in a scrap piece, clamp it (or screw it in and putty the holes after), then user a router with a flush trim bit.
Finding the center of a circle is super easy, you can square the corners and draw diagonal lines, or use the compass method.
https://www.wikihow.com/Find-the-Center-of-a-Circle (https://www.wikihow.com/Find-the-Center-of-a-Circle)
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cut the right size hole in a scrap piece, clamp it (or screw it in and putty the holes after), then user a router with a flush trim bit.
Bingo. 8)
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cut the right size hole in a scrap piece, clamp it (or screw it in and putty the holes after), then user a router with a flush trim bit.
Finding the center of a circle is super easy, you can square the corners and draw diagonal lines, or use the compass method.
https://www.wikihow.com/Find-the-Center-of-a-Circle (https://www.wikihow.com/Find-the-Center-of-a-Circle)
That I guess after the fact would have been a faster,cheaper less elaborate solution, Screwing a template to the workbench and centering the cab over it I mean, cutting a 7" over a hole gets into some interesting physics where finding center could be considered difficult and in hindsight dry times for the glue slowed me down ...Jenn cut the plug 1/8 too small (on purpose) and epoxied little bits of paint stick around it, buzzed it on the belt to make a good fit and used wood glue to glue it into the cab (long dry times)... I will post a pic before I cut it for the curious.
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Next time don't post at 10pm without waiting for an answer :p
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*Jenn laughs... My windows are all boarded up and I don't have a clock, so I have no idea what time it is, Its kinda like living in a casino, Perhaps you guys should just stay up later 8) *Giggle....Here is that pic, My thoughts were I wanted to minimize glue slobber since this isn't going to be painted (just cleared) and still get a nice fit.
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*Jenn laughs... My windows are all boarded up...
Open 'em up once in a while... to air out the glue vapors...
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My windows are all boarded up and I don't have a clock, so I have no idea what time it is, Its kinda like living in a casino
Sounds like a crack house.
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I wouldn't know about that, Jenn would think possibly, Supose they have to hid from task force drones nowdays.... I do it for security and blocking UV rays from old art, otherwise once a day everything gets bleached by the sun, over multiple years that's really hard on pigments....And it helps keep late night noise to a minimum. However Jenn does have a ventilator which curious fact can backdraft the furnace, So carbin monoxide is a constant battle.
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If any of you guys were curious about that fancy dandy hole cutter heres a link (A/zon has them too).... It seems a little spendy but its adjustable so you save money on hole cutters on the backside, Its kind of tricky to figger out, and uses oddly sized set screws which always have you looking for a different Allen wrench, and buy extra blades because it gets used.... HIGHLY recommended.https://www.holecutterstore.com/hole-pro-x-230-1-7-8-to-9-1-4-twin-blade-adjustable-hole-cutter-kit.html (https://www.holecutterstore.com/hole-pro-x-230-1-7-8-to-9-1-4-twin-blade-adjustable-hole-cutter-kit.html)
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Even from across the room I can see there is no going back now.... This thing is going to be downright nasty. :-\
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I have heard it said on a project like this take pictures, Lots and lots of pics...Well, Jenn don't do that, no diary, no build sheets, pretty much nothing other than "Titanic" style forensics, and a few notes on changes in the manual for the new owner. And by now that is probably quite evident, Don't tear the whole thing all apart all at once, but slowly and systematically starting with the worst of the project and work it as far as possible, but don't assemble it yet before moving on. For the new guys I am not saying don't take lots of pics, its just that they wont be as helpful as you might expect when it comes time to need them, and very difficult to follow the orientations of multiple pics. Just understand what it is your working on and it will tell you its secrets....The coin door, Given the bolts actually bolt the lock bar receiver behind it also, so the holes are quite precisely placed as to allow for some adjustment, and it all has to work together, as opposed to a game cab where you just put it where you want it and drill the holes, This creates a problem, and there are 2 solutions that I am aware of, #1, is scan it and make a template in P/s or #2, remove the section, clean it up and clamp it to the cab which is what we are going to do. :-\
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Metric hardware..... Back in the late 70s I believe,(mere observational history) American cars were starting to use metric bolts usually down around the transmission, cross member, mount and such but only in specific areas and were marked with blue, most of you might remember this. Odd I thought, whats the point? other than they were built elsewhere as components to be assembled in a central location.... Well today our Getaway joined this mismatched condition, the bolts and T nuts (for the light bar antitheft blocks) are apparently not commonly available as non serrated flange bolts in stainless as Imperial, but were as metric, and a crash course in base 10 ensued. OMG!....Anyway Jenn did happen across this conversion chart which was really helpful for you builder guys, it draws a comparison line on the ruler as you change the values (and apparently 6mm = 1/4 in. who would have ever guessed?) http://www.ginifab.com/feeds/cm_to_inch/ (http://www.ginifab.com/feeds/cm_to_inch/)
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you'd be surprised how often I have to convert decimal inches to inch fractions.
I've always used this... https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/fractional-decimal-equivalents-d_1159.html (https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/fractional-decimal-equivalents-d_1159.html)
being within 1/64th is close enough for the girls I go out with. ::)
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That chart is nice. I just printed it out, thanks. I just had to convert a decimal to fractions for a hole I had to cut for a bass guitar speaker. Next time I will have a handy chart.
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Metric hardware..... Back in the late 70s I believe,(mere observational history) American cars were starting to use metric bolts usually down around the transmission, cross member, mount and such but only in specific areas and were marked with blue, most of you might remember this. Odd I thought, whats the point? other than they were built elsewhere as components to be assembled in a central location.... Well today our Getaway joined this mismatched condition, the bolts and T nuts (for the light bar antitheft blocks) are apparently not commonly available as non serrated flange bolts in stainless as Imperial, but were as metric, and a crash course in base 10 ensued. OMG!....Anyway Jenn did happen across this conversion chart which was really helpful for you builder guys, it draws a comparison line on the ruler as you change the values (and apparently 6mm = 1/4 in. who would have ever guessed?) http://www.ginifab.com/feeds/cm_to_inch/ (http://www.ginifab.com/feeds/cm_to_inch/)
Stop calling them "freedom units". Americans didn't invent the imperial system, and if anything, our lack of adopting the metric system may be a contributing factor to the idiocy of our youth.
The metric system?.....Hee,Hee :laugh2:, Ya that totally dumbed down society....(Giggle) From here on out Jennifer will just be her own assistant to human resources ....OMG, (Laugh, and Laugh)
To help you "un-dumb" yourself. Metric bolts can be identified by the grades as indicated on the head of the bolt with numbers (8.8, 10.9. etc). SAE bolt grades are indicated by hash marks (3 hash marks is grade 5, 5 hash marks is grade 8, etc). Identifying this will greatly reduce the time you waste searching for the right wrench. And if there are machined notches on the side of the head of the bolt, it's left hand thread (righty tighty, lefty loosy does not apply here).
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Clever Nephasth I see what you did there, but for the record that wasn't me calling out "freedom units" in that thread (That was a fun day Jenn is still amused ;D).... As it relates to this project, Metric obviously is not my go to in design but in this case it may make sense, In terms of availability especially given the fact this machine already uses custom bolts (mine are finally made but are still at chrome shop) and these cable blocks are not original Getaway parts anyway, aftermarket mod at best and easy and quick is good so we can get this thing to paint and assembly.... However I was not aware of the right/left threads, that is relatively uncommon by "freedom unit" standards, and could potently have Jenn second guessing my decision on this metric hardware thing.
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You'll typically only find left-hand threaded fasteners on rotating assemblies which might cause right-hand threaded fasteners to come loose during normal operation. Even as a mechanic, it is rare to find left-hand threaded fasteners.
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The lightboard was watersoaked mdf and didn't fare well, so rather than just replace it, Jennifer decided to upgrade it some.... The oak was milled down to 1/2", in two pieces and joined together, nothing fancy just some jig work. (*fun fact, wood has a moisture content, so when milling do both sides to help it dry evenly) The pieces were then cut as to assemble with opposing grain patterns to further help minimize warp.
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So where is this at now Jenn? I'm taking an interest in all things pinball, especially restoration. Though the first few pics are gone from this project, it sounds like you started with some practically unsalvageable item and worked it from there?
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This thread is old, And was a butcher victim in Pbjs smart bomb thing, , Jenn was forced to cull pics as to help it load And to make matters worse there seems to be little interest in such a build, I just keep updating it just for my friends that have followed it.... It was in a building that was on fire, and the head was burning before the fire guys got there with the hose, Initially it was going to be a restore, but even new this machine had some shortcomings so Jenn built a new cab. (using jigs like in that last pic) and mostly low end big box store tooling just to show anyone can do this in their driveway on a nice day... The cost got away on me However , and the complexity was a research binge not to be believed. Basically it is a new machine (Still unassembled) with design upgrades and a few mods (Don't judge me, I hate them too, But this machine just needs them to be right)....I will look for a few of the missing pics for you. ;)
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I guess we're friends cause Ive been following along from the start.
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I guess we're friends cause Ive been following along from the start.
Yes you are (*Smooch, wink ;)) And you have been quite patient, So the update for you... Jenns workbench needed some upgrades So I got a variable AC supply (to finish the bench test), IDC connector squeezer guns and dies (.156, and .100) and a few other odds and ends. Currently in the process of sourcing the wire and connectors for the new harness. The lamps on the backboard were IDC, but Given that is a moving door it seems solder terminals would be better, So while making that light board Jenn made 2, One to be modified a little for a better fit for the LCD, and covered on the backside with #8 mirror grade stainless, and possibly some Led flasher strips (not bulbs) behind the helicopters and police cars. although still bench testing the idea and need to the to shut them down via relay in the event of a "tilt" and the other to be a original duplicate....However, after drying one warped some and the duplicate is off the table.
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this whole ride has been fun. :applaud:
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this whole ride has been fun. :applaud:
I am happy you would think so, there is so much that hasn't been documented but Jenn does try to hit the fun parts...The last piece of platting came back, (the circuit board panel) done up with zink chromate, I haven't seen it yet and really have high hopes cause that thing was nasty black and slimy. But just for you Jenn will do an unboxing check it out pic 8)
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Problems loading pics....
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Problems loading pics....
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Wut kinda problems?
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Update, Finally got one too load, this is the circuit board panel. It has funny scratch sand marks on it and blotchy, Going to get sent back....Ond, those early pics are on a old camera and the files for whatever reason are too large to load (still working on it though, please standby)
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You can always email them to me like we did last time
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Are you using a windows PC to post? I use MS paint to resize my pics for this forum. It is easy and fast. You could try that.
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I think I'd just use that panel as you got it....
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OMG that's so whats wrong with those pics! and Malenco helped me do those! (Thx again for that ;)).... Thing is long threads with lots of pics get all bloated and don't load well for you curious guys (at work, on your phones ::)) so Jenns been more about need to see rather than documentation (And most you guys remember that hot mess I would suppose) Ond is curious of pins however so I shall keep trying or just E/send him a copy...Back to this plating thing, as said this is the last of it, and a few years ago I downsized a bit and sold my tanks (nasty chems and all) and been searching for a good plater ever since, so this was kinda a test piece. And normally don't bling games out in chrome but this pin needed some enhancements given the theme, and stainless (although stainless is a poor conductor given the high carbon content) so that more for aesthetics.... Pbj, You are right, good enough, it is what it is, and once covered with boards who even will ever see it, It is zink, and does have low resistance so yay ;D... It still bothers me some however since the sticker on it was very difficult to replace and hate to waste all that work stickering a poop....Here is a before reference pic so you know what Jennifer is talking about.
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Aparently the harness was made in sections and assembled as a final build, difficult to duplicate, Jennifer chopped it off and tagged everything...And ran into more custom hardware, (#8 carriage bolts,).
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And then template it to a scrap of whiteboard....
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And made a new one out that oak Jenn was messing with earlier.
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oak
well lah dee dah big spender....what, did you want this to last forever?
also...this will last forever until the end of time and space.
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oak
well lah dee dah big spender....what, did you want this to last forever?
also...this will last forever until the end of time and space.
I could see why you would think that, Yes a bit unorthodox...But there is not as much as one might think mostly it's maple however the top is oak because of its complexity, the light board because that's getting a high temp paint/mirror polished stainless on the back, (need a good base) also in attempt to eliminate the sag traditional with MDF and being how it's a moving part I wanted the hinges mounted on real wood.
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I feel bad making ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- out of melamine now.
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I feel bad making ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- out of melamine now.
Never feel bad about making stuff out of melamine, as long as you are making something :) :cheers: :cheers:
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FINALLY DONE!...The last piece, The original one had a 3" speaker on one side but this one is obviously 5" on both sides to allow for speaker upgrades (and cut from mdf).
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Now that is one fine Getaway high speed 2... So very jealous :-\ ! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9b3dNujeZek (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9b3dNujeZek)
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are you ready to ship this pin to me yet?
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I only hope somebody enjoys it for what is someday, and Not what it could be....Apparently Mods on HS2 are all the rage, slapping the most stupid junk you can imagine on them. I sometimes feel a little guilty for what I did to this one... *Update: My bolt guy couldn't find the bolts for the light board or coin door, (without buying 1000/plus lot) So having the heads ground down, cut and chromed on aftermarket. But hopefully that's the last of the half sized hardware...Painting the heads on chrome is a crazy deep subject, because paint doesn't stick to chrome (with any level of reliability) without a multi step process. I will document that if you guys want, but if not that's where its at... I should get back to this project in a week or so hopefully get it closer to paint.
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I feel bad making ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- out of melamine now.
I know you and Drnick are teasing Jenn about melamine...But my guess you guys are no strangers to quality builds. ;)
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Now that is one fine Getaway high speed 2... So very jealous :-\ ! https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9b3dNujeZek (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9b3dNujeZek)
Ummmm, where was the pinball machine in that video?...I just saw lots of girls.....
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Girls?... Diddnt notice... The Getaway is right there at 54 sec however, bet you really want one now (*Jennifer laughs) 8)
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I glanced at the vid, recognized the background from a seller somewhat close to me with overpriced machines on ebay.
His prices are as trashy as his "models".
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1979-Williams-FLASH-PINBALL-MACHINE-Trending-Vintage-Classic-By-GRC-Pinball/163172569213?hash=item25fdd7d07d:g:KUUAAOSwBWJbXIcl:rk:7:pf:0 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/1979-Williams-FLASH-PINBALL-MACHINE-Trending-Vintage-Classic-By-GRC-Pinball/163172569213?hash=item25fdd7d07d:g:KUUAAOSwBWJbXIcl:rk:7:pf:0)
$4200 for a 1979 Flash? Thats like a 3K mark up on a mint one and I have to wipe it down with Lysol.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9b3dNujeZek (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9b3dNujeZek)
i'm... going to need to see some ID.
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https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=440670&highlight=grc (https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=440670&highlight=grc)
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I glanced at the vid, recognized the background from a seller somewhat close to me with overpriced machines on ebay.
His prices are as trashy as his "models".
https://www.ebay.com/itm/1979-Williams-FLASH-PINBALL-MACHINE-Trending-Vintage-Classic-By-GRC-Pinball/163172569213?hash=item25fdd7d07d:g:KUUAAOSwBWJbXIcl:rk:7:pf:0 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/1979-Williams-FLASH-PINBALL-MACHINE-Trending-Vintage-Classic-By-GRC-Pinball/163172569213?hash=item25fdd7d07d:g:KUUAAOSwBWJbXIcl:rk:7:pf:0)
$4200 for a 1979 Flash? Thats like a 3K mark up on a mint one and I have to wipe it down with Lysol.
I suppose a butt print on your "New" $4200 Flash might be considered a little less then awesome, But for someone who doesn't want to build a machine, or doesn't really fully understand how, that might not be such a bad deal, At least it was built with integrity, and most likely pretty nice, (Jennifer gets little jealous and actually wants it ::)). Pins and jukes can be crazy money anyway once you start writing the checks.
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His prices are as trashy as his "models".
Meh I'd hit it.
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9b3dNujeZek (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9b3dNujeZek)
i'm... going to need to see some ID.
Lilshawn needs his own video I think, ;D....https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PD94Ey35hQc (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=PD94Ey35hQc)
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https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=440670&highlight=grc (https://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=440670&highlight=grc)
Klove, So not amused :dizzy:....But point taken, I get it.