The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Woodworking => Topic started by: Timoe on March 07, 2006, 10:36:44 pm
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Here is a tutorial on how to make a jig for your router that will allow you to make perfectly snug recesses for your joysticks whether top mounted or under mounted. It is some what complicated but it’s worth the effort if you think you will make more than one control panel out of wood.
This jig will be compatible with; Happ joysticks, Wico joysticks, X-arcade, and Pelican Real Arcade sticks.
Here is what you will need:
(1) 2’ x 4’ piece of ¼” hard board (mdf)
Router
Flush trim router bit (you bought this to trim your formica laminate)
Router Bushing
Hinge Mortising Router Bit (a very common straight bit)
Carpet tape
Drill and regular drill bits
Jig Saw
Start by inserting the router bushing into the base plate of your router. Install the hinge mortising (common straight) bit into your router. With your router unplugged, measure the distance from the cutting edge of the bit to the OUTSIDE of the bushing.
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Next measure the distance from your router bit to the outside of your router base. Now add two inches to that measurement to account for your clamps.
Lets not make the same mistake we made with our sawboard ;)
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Take your handy panel (2
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Now take your joystick base and line it up with the cross you just made. You will then outline your joystick base in pencil.
Next add the first measurement you took from the cutting edge of your bit to the outside of the bushing.
Mark these lines onto the handy panel.
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Now take the 2
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Now we need to cut out the inside of this square. Be sure to leave about 1/8
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Here are the lines I will cut with my jigsaw. I'm really just trying to take out the bulk of the waste so my router wont have to work so hard.
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Now flip the thing over and get out a flush trim bit. I put my joystick jig ontop of some 2x4s to give me clearance underneath and clamped it all down to my workbench.
Let the bearing of the router bit ride against the 2" strips underneath.
viola :o
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I trimmed up my piece's outside edges to a nice even square with enough room for my clamps.
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Try out a test cut.
You can see the offset here to account for the bushing.
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Some finished shots of the recess.
As you can see I made mine tight. I like it that way and it will make it nice and clean when I want to top mount (like a kneivel CP) but you can make it more loose if you like.
My joystick base has to be pressed in. Not forced, just neatly pushed in place.
As you can see I'm hanging it upside down without fasteners and it is perfectly snug.
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How do you use the Jig?
The router base slides along the top of the jig. With the bushing installed in the base and the straight bit installed in your router, set the router on top of the jig at the edge of your piece. Adjust your router's cutting depth. I left 1/4" of material left.
Turn your router on and carefully let the bit go into the open space of your joystick hole. Then push the router out towards the edge of your jig until the bushing makes contact with the inside edge of the jig. While maintaining contact from the bushing to the jig edge run it around the full perimeter of the recess.
Then continue routing to clean up the rest of the mess.
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Good stuff! With the router being my fav tool to work with I use a lot of similar methods in my stick building. If a template makes a job easier, a template is made!
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Nice :)
Just a general tip also...keep making sure the router chuck is tight! I routed the underside of my stick panel to give some extra joystick height, and on the second player side the router gradually loosened, and when I looked it had routed all the way through in places...as you can imagine I was a tad pissed off.
I managed to fix it by cutting out the hole completely, routing a bigger rectangle from the top and mounting a metal plate into it for the stick to bolt to.
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Excellent write up! Needs to be stickied.
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:notworthy: I agree, this needs to be made a sticky.
Now that I've seen how easy it is to make a template i think I will be making one to recess my trackball plates as well.
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I like the jigg making tutorial as it's useful for those who aren't used to making such things but isn't this a tad overkill?
It doesn't matter if the recess your joystick fits in is sloppy or not. As long as it fits in the recess you are good. Seems like an awful lot of work for something that's on the bottom side of your cp and thus nobody is ever gonna see.
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I like the jigg making tutorial as it's useful for those who aren't used to making such things but isn't this a tad overkill?
It doesn't matter if the recess your joystick fits in is sloppy or not. As long as it fits in the recess you are good. Seems like an awful lot of work for something that's on the bottom side of your cp and thus nobody is ever gonna see.
For the particular project this template was made for, people do see the underside because the bottom is made of plexiglass.
And I was able to use a similar jig for my more recent 4 player panel with 5 joysticks. having a template SEVERELY reduced the assembly time.
But I agree, if you only plan on building 1 control panel in your life time, then making a jig is a waste of time.
But I enjoy the work :cheers:
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Ahh, I see why you needed it then. ;D
Actually unless you are doing the steps backwards it shouldn't effect construction time at all. Your paper template should have a joystick-sized hole with an x on it to mark it's center. Once you have it on the piece of wood you place the joystick base upside-down on the top of the cp. Center the joystick with the x, mark your bolt holes and drill all the holes. Now you simply flip it over, line up with the holes and trace the outline of the base. Now route the heck out of it.
This method should actually be quicker for most people as the common layout templates have a hole or center point marking the area where the joystick should be rather than a outline of the base (plus different joysticks have different base sizes). It's much more difficult to figure out where the joystick shaft will end up when you are using your style of template than to simply drill the shaft hole first and then route the recess.
Again though, I think in general a jigg making tutorial needed to be on here though so good work.
Now if you were to expand upon the idea and make jiggs of various common layouts (to enable a person to only use the router and eliminate those tiresome drill bits for the button holes) then that might be more useful and time saving. Of course then you have to drill holes for the buttons anyway to get the trim bit in, so it might be more trouble than it's worth.
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Ahh, I see why you needed it then. ;D
Actually unless you are doing the steps backwards it shouldn't effect construction time at all. Your paper template should have a joystick-sized hole with an x on it to mark it's center. Once you have it on the piece of wood you place the joystick base upside-down on the top of the cp. Center the joystick with the x, mark your bolt holes and drill all the holes. Now you simply flip it over, line up with the holes and trace the outline of the base. Now route the heck out of it.
This method should actually be quicker for most people as the common layout templates have a hole or center point marking the area where the joystick should be rather than a outline of the base (plus different joysticks have different base sizes). It's much more difficult to figure out where the joystick shaft will end up when you are using your style of template than to simply drill the shaft hole first and then route the recess.
Again though, I think in general a jigg making tutorial needed to be on here though so good work.
Now if you were to expand upon the idea and make jiggs of various common layouts (to enable a person to only use the router and eliminate those tiresome drill bits for the button holes) then that might be more useful and time saving. Of course then you have to drill holes for the buttons anyway to get the trim bit in, so it might be more trouble than it's worth.
I think, what Howard is trying to say is "Thanks for the cool tutorial.", but for some reason its coming out "You're a moron and I know better."
EDit: Gee, that sounded harsh. Oh well. My biggest problem with the router is making a jig so things actually look good. Thanks again!
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No it's thanks for the tutorial AND I know better. No morons are involved though.
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No it's thanks for the tutorial AND I know better. No morons are involved though.
According to thread police sources, an eyewitness has identified at least one moron. :)
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Just wanted to show my template off that Timoe inspired me to make. With space being an issue in my shop, I make all of my templates small (this one is about 8" square) and fasten everything with double sided tape. I'm in love with the stuff now...
Also, while Timoe made his template for a tight fit, I sized mine to make about a 1/8" space all the way around. This allows for a bit of wiggle room. I made a set of templates for Sanwa joysticks too, but they're going to change so I won't show them just yet.
The template. I made mine out of 1/2" baltic birch plywood. I love how smooth and stable this stuff is. It's my template making material now. I like how the edges don't compress in whan I use a bearing guided bit (anyone who used an MDF template with a flush trim or pattern bit knows what I mean) and the fact that it can be had for pretty cheap if you know where to look. Here's (http://www.bargainbirch.com/commerce/index.php?cPath=21&osCsid=6b8792f198edcb31672527de825e3b81)a good source.
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/Misc%20Pics/th_misc_040.jpg) (http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/Misc%20Pics/misc_040.jpg)
The finished recess.
(http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/NiteStick/th_nitestick_004.jpg) (http://i57.photobucket.com/albums/g217/NiteWalkerGR/NiteStick/nitestick_004.jpg)
And making the template is not hard at all. Don't let it discourage you.
@Howard_Casto
"Now if you were to expand upon the idea and make jiggs of various common layouts (to enable a person to only use the router and eliminate those tiresome drill bits for the button holes) then that might be more useful and time saving. Of course then you have to drill holes for the buttons anyway to get the trim bit in, so it might be more trouble than it's worth. "
It is possible to rout the holes without drilling starter holes. All you need is a plunge boring router bit. It's designed to plunge into a workpiece just like a drill bit. That actually sounds like a good idea. Not as fun as using a drill press though! j/k
I just really want a drill press...
EDIT:
This needs to be stickied.
And you should post more of your jigs in here Timoe :cheers:
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I like the jigg making tutorial as it's useful for those who aren't used to making such things but isn't this a tad overkill?
It doesn't matter if the recess your joystick fits in is sloppy or not. As long as it fits in the recess you are good. Seems like an awful lot of work for something that's on the bottom side of your cp and thus nobody is ever gonna see.
But you are missing the point. This is a woodworking discussion forum. We woodworkers make jigs because it's fun to make jigs. They are made from wood. It's like a whole extra project. Plus, the joystick recesses don't look all free-hand sloppy and amatureish. They look machined and professional.
Now you may not ever see the recesses again, but I'm always having to take my cabinets apart to show friends how this stuff works. Then they want me to build them a CP or cabinet, and voila! I have the jigs already.
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I am working on my second and third MAME cabinets right now. The jigs I will make based on this post will help me a lot.
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*The router base slides along the top of the jig. With the bushing installed in the base and the straight bit installed in your router, set the router on top of the jig at the edge of your piece. Adjust your router's cutting depth. I left 1/4" of material left.*
Okay... so I'm a router novice... but with using one of these jigs how do you adjust the cutting depth?
Most of my router bits have a bearing on the bottom or top of the bit (though I'll admit I don't have many). So as an example, if my router bit is 1" long and the bearing is at the top, it will cut a 1" depth.
I have plunge router so I'm assuming I need a different type of bit? Or is this bushing something separate from the bit that attaches directly to the router?
*Edit* Bah... after a couple re-reads I think I've got it.
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Yes, the bushing attaches to the router base directly. It has an edge the protrudes down that rides against the edge of your jig. The router bit is the plain "hinge mortise' type bit that does not have a bearing.
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Good stuff. Now I just need to go buy a router bushing so I can actually use this info. This thread should definately be stickied.
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You don't absolutely need a bushing, you can also use what's called a pettern bit. Make your template out of 3/4" or 1/2" plywood instead of MDF. MDF's edges will compress from the router bearing. The math is simpler when using a pattern bit. The opening you see is what you get. Just make sure to get a pattern bit with a 3/4" cutting length. Any longer and it'll extend too far to make an appropriate recess for the joystick.
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You don't absolutely need a bushing, you can also use what's called a pettern bit. Make your template out of 3/4" or 1/2" plywood instead of MDF. MDF's edges will compress from the router bearing. The math is simpler when using a pattern bit. The opening you see is what you get. Just make sure to get a pattern bit with a 3/4" cutting length. Any longer and it'll extend too far to make an appropriate recess for the joystick.
I'm guessing a pattern bit is basically just a flush trim bit with the bearing on the top instead of the bottom. Is that correct?
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Yep.Thems be the ones.
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I would still reccomend buying the bushing setup. If your router has a standard 1-3/16" opening with a recess in the baseplate for the bushings, the correct bushing and retaining ring will set you back about $10. I had to replace my baseplate with a universal one so I could use standard bushings and bought a full set of 9 different bushings, my cash outlay was about $50. But I have seen other kits much cheaper. A local place (Canadian Tire for the canucks on the board) has a full kit with 5 or 6 bushings with the universal 6" baseplate for about $20. The stuff I bought was from Lee Valley, excellent quality gear at a good price.
Baseplate: http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=47162&cat=1,43000,51208&ap=1
Bushings: http://www.leevalley.com/wood/page.aspx?c=1&p=47249&cat=1,43000,51208&ap=1
In comparison, the pattern bits start at $23 or so at Lee Valley. Standard straight bits are about 1/2 that.
It's just my opinion, but bits wear out, the bushing kit will not.
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Don't get me wrong, bushings are great. I have 2 sets. But some people have pattern bits already (from cutting other parts). So if you already have a pattern bit, you're good. I prefer the bushing method as well.
Also, here's where I get my routerbits:
http://www.routerbits.com/cgi-routerbits/sr.cgi?1156035299_17864+47
Super cheap and industrial quality. If you chack around on the woodnet forums the whiteside brand is preferable to others.
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Nitewalker, thanks for the link.
Which bit would you recommend for this project? (part number please)
I've used a router many times for rounding an edge, but never routed a recess or used a template.
I'm still in the planning stage for my first custom CP, so this will be a tremendous help!
Thanks for the great tutorial!
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No problem. I get my router bits from a different source now though. Same brand (whiteside) just cheaper, free shipping and a 10% off discount if you join woodnet (http://www.forums.woodnet.net/ubbthreads/newuser.php?Cat=) (the code is woodnet10).
For the way the tutorial mentions I'd grab this one (http://www.holbren.com/product.php?productid=176) and a 1" outside diameter bushing.
The size of the router bit isn't critical so long as it's smaller than the bushing. The larger the combination you use the quicker the recess can be router.
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Nice jig!
I just finished recessing my joysticks recently. I simply used the joystick plate to draw the square and 4 pieces of 1/2" X 3" which I double sided taped to the bottom of the cp. You need to line up your wood pieces just outside the lines to compensate for the router sleeve. Man does that tape hold well. Almost too well. It's a quick and dirty way to do it, but it works. I do prefer your jig though, especially if your going to pump out a lot of controllers.
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Timoe,
I plan on making one in a couple of days for my joysticks, thanks, this will be a good reference in case I get stuck.
Nice :)
Just a general tip also...keep making sure the router chuck is tight! I routed the underside of my stick panel to give some extra joystick height, and on the second player side the router gradually loosened, and when I looked it had routed all the way through in places...as you can imagine I was a tad pissed off.
I managed to fix it by cutting out the hole completely, routing a bigger rectangle from the top and mounting a metal plate into it for the stick to bolt to.
Minwah,
I think I know why your bit got loose. I've seen a few post here with bad bit tightening technique. The bit will loosen up if you drop it to the bottom and tighten it. It does so by design. Actually the manufacturer (porter cable and delta) recommends that the bit be bottomed and then raised 1/16 inch before tightening. This is because as you're tightening the bit, it moves down and squeezes, but if the bit is already seated on the bottom, I may stop before there is a good squeeze. Make sense? I've read this also in a woodworking magazine. I know it's a small detail, but a loose bit is dangerous. Also, check your bit chuck for cracks. Hope that fixes future problems. :cheers:
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Maybe a stupid question...but I'll ask anyway.
How deep do you need to router for the different types of buttons & joystick plates?
I'm gonna be jumping between Happ and Sanwa parts. Making 1 for myself and a couple for some friends for X-mas. And they prefer jap parts...while I prefer happ. ::)
or is there not really much difference?
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The bit will loosen up if you drop it to the bottom and tighten it. It does so by design. Actually the manufacturer (porter cable and delta) recommends that the bit be bottomed and then raised 1/16 inch before tightening. This is because as you're tightening the bit, it moves down and squeezes, but if the bit is already seated on the bottom, I may stop before there is a good squeeze.
One of the better tips I've seen is to slip small O-rings onto the shanks of your bit and slide it all the way up to the top of the shank. This keeps the bit a fraction of an inch above the collet and also protects the head of the bit from nicks that can occur on the cutting edges if the bit is dropped into the router.
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On my control panel to recess the joystick a half inch, I used a dremel with the drywall cutting blade and the depth attachment to gouge out an extra 1/2" or so for my stick. It worked pretty well and greatly improved the look of the stick, but was extremely rough and looked like a monkey did it. Think I'll give this a try on my next CP... if I get a router, or unless I use that metal CP that's on my Dynamo cab. ;D
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Very nice. I've decided to top mount my joysticks so building a jig would be a great way for me to get used to my router. Thanks for the tips. I wish Home Depot was open right now because I really want to work on my CP right now. :'(
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how big is that hole for the joystick
1 inch?
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how big is that hole for the joystick
1 inch?
I'm top mounting the joysticks. That means it's much bigger than 1-inch, thank you. ;D
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Im going to go look at router stuff today so it will probably make more sense later.
The bushing is a piece that mounts before the bit that lets you ride along an edge to guide the cutting bit. Its at the base of the router so in our case when cutting your actual control panel it would be riding the edge of our template.
However when cutting the actual template you did not use a bushing, instead you used one of those pattern bits with the bearing on the end of it (flush trim bit) and let the bearing guide you instead of the bushing.
Is that correct? It just seems odd as I thought we used the bushings to eliminate the need for one of the bits with the bearings on it. You could do it with just a normal bit and a bushing right, or is perhaps the bushing to big to get the corners right.
I guess the final picture confuses me its stained but it looks like the bottom, so you can stick the joystick up through it so this is a bottom mounted build you did right? If it was top mounted the base of the joystick wont fit through that hole. But if it is bottom mounted I dont know why the part you wont see was stained?
Then there is the question of terms. You cut the jig with a bit that has a bearing on the tip, when I googled "flush trim bit" I get those with the bearing at the top: http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=5411
This would work, you could just have the template for the jig on the top instead of the bottom I suppose, also these seem to be popular - http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_flush.html
2nd to last one with bearing at the shaft and the tip of the bit.
For me it seems that I would use the one with the bearing at the top more often so that you can cut into things, if your cutting into something you cant have the bearing on the tip of the bit.
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Heya Timoe do you have the rest of replies 2, 4 and 5?
There's a bug with the forum, it won't show them
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Maybe a really stupid question but why do you have to sink the joysticks, why can't you simply mount it to the underside?
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Maybe a really stupid question but why do you have to sink the joysticks, why can't you simply mount it to the underside?
If the wood is too thick then not enough of the joystick will stick out the top. If the wood is thin enough to do that then you have a flimsy CP. The recess probably keeps it locked in place better too.
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Maybe a really stupid question but why do you have to sink the joysticks, why can't you simply mount it to the underside?
If the wood is too thick then not enough of the joystick will stick out the top. If the wood is thin enough to do that then you have a flimsy CP. The recess probably keeps it locked in place better too.
Maybe I was just lucky in my choice of joysticks (some Happ model, don't remember which now) then. I mounted mine under a 12mm fiber board and using four carrier bolts to hold it in place. It is just a temporary control panel used until I start building my cab, so maybe I should try sinking it to know which way to go for the real thing...
Thanks for the help.
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Maybe a really stupid question but why do you have to sink the joysticks, why can't you simply mount it to the underside?
You can but top mounting improves the following:
1) More shaft above CP
2) Easier to ensure no carriage bolts above CP. You get a nice flush mount.
This is a great tutorial but I used FrancoB's method which I think is even more straightforward.
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I've mounted them to the underside and just screwed them in. If you want you can route out the area for the plate (or use a wood chisel) to get a little more height. Never had a problem with the screws poking thru or having to deal with bolt heads or joystick breaking loose and it looks great!
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Absolutely, underside works fine and of course can be done without screws poking through etc but imo you just can't beat a top mounting for length of shaft and if you do it properly strength is of no concern. I have done both but wouldn't go back to bottom mounting after having done it the top way.
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I defeated my adhere to the bottom of the panel to provide some extra joystick height gradually loosened, the second player side of the router, when I looked at it transmitted all through the place, you can imagine I was a little angry. :afro: :afro:
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I defeated my adhere to the bottom of the panel to provide some extra joystick height gradually loosened, the second player side of the router, when I looked at it transmitted all through the place, you can imagine I was a little angry. :afro: :afro:
What???
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I defeated my adhere to the bottom of the panel to provide some extra joystick height gradually loosened, the second player side of the router, when I looked at it transmitted all through the place, you can imagine I was a little angry. :afro: :afro:
What???
could be a patient spammer. Build up a few posts and then BAM! Testimonial about the latest tampon...
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thanks for the tutorial. now i just need to get me a new router.
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thanks for the tutorial, learnt something new today :)
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If mounting a JLF from below into some MDF, what is the minimum thickness of MDF I want to have? I will have to recess my sticks, and don't want anything visible topside, and was worried the MDF will be too weak for mounting that way. Any help is appreciated.
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If mounting a JLF from below into some MDF, what is the minimum thickness of MDF I want to have? I will have to recess my sticks, and don't want anything visible topside, and was worried the MDF will be too weak for mounting that way. Any help is appreciated.
Check out the "Under mount (support blocks)" mounting method. ;D
https://web.archive.org/web/20160809113045/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ#Joysticks (https://web.archive.org/web/20160809113045/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ#Joysticks)
Scott
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Thanks PL1... i was considering the same method as being my likely solution if strength was going to be an issue. This puts me at ease. Much appreciated.