The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: DaOld Man on April 09, 2012, 09:53:50 am
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I decided to put a picture of this finished project at the start of the thread.
(Pardon the mess, I had not performed the clean up process yet.)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=281059;image)
### And here is the start of the original Thread. Thanks for looking!! ###
I have started a project that is a close copy to "The Rage", except at around 69% size.
So Im calling it "A Little Rage". It is right at 48" tall.
Im building it with 1/2" MDF.
Here's my progress thus far:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182344;image)
Here are the sides, standing up behind my riding lawn mower:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182347;image)
Here is the control panel. Im still not sure I like this. I am trying to use two player controls, so I had to make the machine wider, so it is a little more than 69% wide compared to the original Rage.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182349;image)
The bottom. I cut a hole in the back for a fan. I have the casters mounted, I applied some primer around that area before bolting them, thats what the white stuff is.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182351;image)
And last but not least, the plans:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=182368;image)
I dont know if Im going to go with a real coin door (Will probably look too large IMHO), or steal Louis Tulley's idea of the homemade coin door.
Thanks for looking, and I look forward to all comments and suggestions.
Now I just hope I remembered how to correctly post the pics!
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If it comes out half as good as your scaled down cab, I will be very happy!
I like the idea of the spinner, didnt you make one yourself? I may have to steal two ideas from you!
Edit, no artwork ideas yet, but Im wide open to suggestions!
I have thought about making a "neon tube" el wire marquee like The Rage has, but it might just be a back lighted picture instead of real el wire. Also I plan to use a 15" LCD monitor I have laying around.
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wow... the numbers on the drawing are very hard to read!
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This looks like a cool project. I'll be watching it as I plan to build a scaled down cabinet for my next project. Good luck.
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Glad to see a project from you, with all the ideas you keep coming up with this should be one cool cabinet.
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Glad to see a project from you, with all the ideas you keep coming up with this should be one cool cabinet.
+1 I'm watching too.
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wow... the numbers on the drawing are very hard to read!
Sorry about that, hopefully above will be better now.
If you want the plans I can send you the large file. I didnt follow my plans exactly though.
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Thanks for the compliments guys, I hope I dont let you down.
And I would appreciate any comments or suggestions, I tend to get in a hurry and forget important details.
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I like it but I'm wondering if the control panel is just a little jammed. Those buttons seem real close to the edge.
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I like it but I'm wondering if the control panel is just a little jammed. Those buttons seem real close to the edge.
That is one thing that is bugging me about the panel. Suggestions?
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Lose fighters and drop down to 4 buttons ;) The control panel I recently built is 20.5" wide but feels cramped for 2 players 6 buttons. The test panel I created with 4 buttons feels a lot better.
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Lose fighters and drop down to 4 buttons ;) The control panel I recently built is 20.5" wide but feels cramped for 2 players 6 buttons. The test panel I created with 4 buttons feels a lot better.
Thanks..
So what do you think?
Loose two right buttons, pull the centers down even with the ones by the joystick, then pull left joystck and buttons in towards center?
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Or perhaps use smaller buttons.... Those little red light-up ones would be pretty cool.
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Or perhaps use smaller buttons.... Those little red light-up ones would be pretty cool.
Thanks Jennifer, I like that idea. Which buttons do you have in mind?
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Missle command, I think, used them as player start buttons.
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Are those the volcano buttons?
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There you go....That or maybe joystick shooter buttons, something small anyway. The project as a whole looks way cool, cant wait to
see it done up!
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Thanks Louis.
Yes, Im interested in ordering some of those buttons.
Be glad to share the order with you. PM me the details, I have not ordered from this company before.
With those smaller buttons, do you think I can squeeze 6 per player in?
I am thinking about using metal for the CP. That will be idea #3 (or is it 4, im loosing count) that I steal from you.
How do you feel about using regular sized player 1 and 2 start buttons with the small ones?
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Are you going to go with a smaller trackball as well?
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Are you going to go with a smaller trackball as well?
Sorry for the late reply, work has been keeping me busy last couple of weeks.
Yes, I plan to use the trackball I got from Sparkfun.
I have noticed that my cabinet seems to easily tip forward. This worries me because I wouldnt want the cab to tip over if someone leans on the CP.
I will have to see how it is when I get the rest of the cab put together and the parts in it.
I sure hope I dont have to put counter weights in the back of it.
Any other guys have this problem with your mini cabs?
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Wow, its been a while since Ive updated this project thread. Work and life has kept me from doing the things I really like.
Did get a little bit of progress since last update, here is a ketch um up..
I had one of those glass top coffee tables, it had two panes of glass. Well, one day I took apart a 3" trackball right above one the glasses and guess what? Yep dropped it and smashed one of the glass panes. (No harm to the trackball though, and I was really tired of that old table.)
This happen quite a while ago, so if I have already mentioned it, sorry.
Anyway, I thought I might could use the other pane for a monitor cover.
So I took it to a local glass shop and had it cut down to fit the Little Rage.
The guy said most of the table top glasses are safety glass (like in cars), but luckily this was not or he couldnt have cut it. I wonder why it wouldnt be safety glass after he said that?
Ok, I cut some MDF blocks and mounted them so the bottom of the glass would have something to rest on:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=184688;image)
Notice the smaller block on top to keep the glass from moving forward.
I then ran a block across the top to keep glass from falling backwards:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=184686;image)
In last pic, I also have a block at the bottom, but havent decided that I like it, so it's not fastened yet.
Here it is with some white trim on the sides:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=184684;image)
The white trim is some F Trim that I got at Lowes. I was thinking of using the F Trim as a channel for the glass to slide down into, but the F Trim space was too narrow, so I trimmed off the inner part, so I guess it's a L trim now.
Here is close up of the trim:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=184690;image)
It is white but I can paint it to match the T molding Im sure.
Speaking of T molding, does anyone make 1/2" other than white?
Also I am concerned about the mirror like action of the glass. I have a black poster board behind the glass, I used it to get the right thickness, because I intend to use poster board behind the glass. But I do not like the mirror affect.
Any suggestions? Do you think a lighter color behind the glass might not be so reflective?
And now, a quick pic of the speakers I intend to use:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=184692;image)
This is a ASI USB speaker bar. It is made to mount to the bottom or top of an LCD monitor.
My first idea was to place it in the bottom of the marquee box, where most speakers mount, but Im thinking it might be better under the CP, in teh coin door panel, above the coin door. What do you think?
Speaking of coin doors, I stopped by Louis Tulleys work place yesterday and checked out his mini coin door. It looks very good. I will probably go that route with this project.
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It's about time for an update :w00t
I know you said you were a little concerned about it being top heavy, won't the glass contribute to that?
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was just reading your stuck for buttons hmmm i saw some momentary buttons on ebay might work :)
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5x-Momentary-Push-Button-OFF-ON-N-O-Switch-Red-B2-/250868205557?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a68e907f5 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/5x-Momentary-Push-Button-OFF-ON-N-O-Switch-Red-B2-/250868205557?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3a68e907f5)
wide veriety of buttons and colours the waiting isnt that bad either ive ordered 2 sets in multi-colors even at worst case theyl make great admin buttons :)
also how about something original like this for the artwork :)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v716/gizmo_69/ARCADE%20BUILD/PRIMAL_RAGE.jpg)
yah primal rage hee hee i remember that along with killer instinct :)
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It's about time for an update :w00t
I know you said you were a little concerned about it being top heavy, won't the glass contribute to that?
Actually, I am concerned about it being front heavy, tipping forward if someone leans on the CP. This glass helps because it is behind the tipping point, which is the front casters. But I am concerned that the glass is not safety glass, if it gets broke there will be dangerous shards going everywhere. I may still use plexi, not real sure yet.
was just reading your stuck for buttons hmmm i saw some momentary buttons on ebay might work :)
...also how about something original like this for the artwork :)
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yah primal rage hee hee i remember that along with killer instinct :)
Thanks Gizmo, I will check out those buttons.
That art looks great, however I am going to give this to my 2 yr old grand daughter (If my son and his wife say its ok.), and I dont know if this might be a little scary for her?
I was thinking more on the lines of the baby characters, pacman jr, DK jr, sweetpea from popeye, etc, in frowning or temper tantrum mode.
What do you think? Im open to all suggestions.
BTW, that pic you suggested would make a great side art for The Rage, Im going to show it to my son to see if he's interested. How about the centipede wrapping around it too?
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the centipede wrapping hmmm ill have to look that up or send me a link let me throw some ideas about :)
and if the machines for a younger girl def go with the 4 buttons each player :) fits better to the concept
you said using a lcd screen but an old monitor will add to the back weight and should stop the toppling effect but it looks like you dont have the depth for one
also might want rubber feet on the front and wheels on back :) http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-x-1-Rubber-Chair-Feet-Ferrules-Ferrule-Protection-Chairs-Leg-Black-/110877918272?pt=UK_Home_Garden_LivingRoom_Bookcases&hash=item19d0d6c440 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4-x-1-Rubber-Chair-Feet-Ferrules-Ferrule-Protection-Chairs-Leg-Black-/110877918272?pt=UK_Home_Garden_LivingRoom_Bookcases&hash=item19d0d6c440)
helps support better you can use similar to what they have on fridges so you can adjust them accordingly :)
or just go for some chunky rubber stationary ones like above :)
Also go with a thicker Plexi for the screen Far safer
So drop me a pm or Post here with some pics please of the side straight on :) i can work that easier :) also do a front on please :)
just going to spitball some ideas around for you should have some by end of the day if you get those pics up quickly :)
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Thanks GIZMOGames.
I dont have any examples of artwork to show yet, I really havent had time to think about that, so I would appreciate any ideas you might come up with.
I think I will do something different with the casters. The ones in the front swivel and the back are fixed, it makes rolling the thing sideways a real pain.
No, I dont have enough room for the CRT monitor, I only have about 10-11" between the monitor front and the rear of the cab.
Oh, well something else to think about if I have a slow night tonight at work.
I did decide to go with plexi instead of glass. I kept thinking of my G-daughter or one of her little friends throwing something at it and breaking it. That would be a scenario that I dont need to worry about.
I got a piece of plexi from Louis Tulley, a couple of cuts with the router and it fits like a glove.
I may have to trim the sides a bit, it is too tight for the white trim. I like the look of it being flush wit the side of the cab but plexi has a tendency to expand and contract with ambient temps, so it needs a little gap for movement, and the trim would cover the gap.
Here are a couple of pics:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=184706;image)
Front of the cab with the plexi laying in place.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=184708;image)
And the side. It is right at 48" tall. I can get exact measures if you need them. (They are not exactly the same as the plans I posted above.)
Notice the two holes near the top? I used screws to hold the top brace for the monitor glass. I plan to bondo those.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=184710;image)
And last but not least, my supervisor. He's a typical boss, lays around all day and does nothing but keep an eye on me working. Although he will steal a small block of MDF and chew on it, then leave it in the yard for my mower to find.
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hahahaha yeah i got a supervisor like that lol but its normally the screwdrivers and her singing at the sander hahaha
And Gizmo is fine bud its what im used to :) those front/side profiles are perfect i got some ideas i think your going to love :)
So its a glorious day in the uk, so ill be outside doing my thang and also inbetween working on yours :D
Its still looking good tho m8 :) and perceverence wins overall :) :burgerking:
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Thanks Gizmo. Hey man, dont neglect your project worrying about mine.
Im in no hurry (just look at how long ago I started this thread LOL).
My major obstacles are work and weather. I work a swing shift and it is sometimes hard to get motivated when you gotta go in to work in a few hours.
And since my work area is so small, I have to move my mower and a few more things outside to work on my projects, and if it's raining it just kills the whole mood. I really need a big garage, but then I can see me having to move my truck outside to work on things LOL.
So I need to build a really big garage and see if I can talk my work into just mailing me my check. (Or I could throw away years of collected junk to free up space, and get off my lazy butt.) Nah to both.
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certainly not neglecting mine bud :)
Its Been a Glorious day and i have to say PROGRESSIVE In fact ive problem solved most of the probs
Now the only thing i hate more than sucky weather is
PHOTOBUCKET UPLOAD TIMES lol :)
update 3.36 am gmt still uploading pics and working on a few ideas for you :)
PPS Also just got palmslapped by "TopJimmyCooks" for not owning a multi-meter :banghead: Doh !!!
Easily rectified tho good old E-Bay :) Hee Heee :) And Glad he mentioned it to :)
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And since my work area is so small, I have to move my mower and a few more things outside to work on my projects
Got you beat, my work area has no lights, just a small basement window. I need to be extra careful of my fingers when using the table saw.
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Man Darthpaul, you can get some 4 foot florescent fixtures at walmart, dirt cheap, hang up a couple over your work area and plug em in.
Safety first!
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just an idea for you buddy :)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v716/gizmo_69/ARCADE%20BUILD/Daoldmansconcept.png)
in keeping with a theme for a girl :)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v716/gizmo_69/ARCADE%20BUILD/lilragefront1.jpg)
still working on the front wasnt sure you wanted a coindoor :) so left area for one :)
and an idea without :)
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v716/gizmo_69/ARCADE%20BUILD/lilragefront2.jpg)
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Wow thanks Gizmo. I like it. I am planning on using one of the Louis Tullys fake coin doors, but Gracie really likes micky mouse, so leaving mini in there somewhere would be nice.
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thats easy ill move the stars around in the bottom cloud and put minnie slap bang in the middle that way you can insert the door aswell :)
a suggestion would be white T-molding it would contrast the rest, the marquee would be the same blue with the 2 stars and her name in bubble writing or clouds :D and the bezel could be similar :)
only thing will be matching the blue to a paint for the inner and other non vinyl parts not really a prob tho :) one thing i am in need of is a way to scale these images, so when you get them actually done youll have the correct scale so it doesnt distort when scaling up ..That and i really need to learn how to use vectors for cleaner lines and such :) any articles advice apreaciated please :)
Thanks
HaHaHaHa so sorry i just thought the more i look at the design and the more i work out placement the more i see :P
THE SIMPSONS
hahahah thats funny and sorry just had to share :D
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Ok, Its been a while since I did anything to this project. Personal stuff taking my time and the weather is HOT HOT HOT!
Just to catch everyone up, I Have modified a power strip to allow the PC to turn everything else on and off.
Nothing spectacular, A relay in the side of the power strip. The first outlet is always on, all others on or off depending on the 12 volt relay being on or off.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=187901;image)
Next for a power entry I decided to build my own. I used a metal blank wall cover and cut out holes for a entry module I removed from an old power supply, and a 10 amp fuse.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=187897;image)
I then painted it hammered black and mounted the parts:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=187899;image)
I cut a hole in the lower back of the cab to mount a "old work" metal box.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=187903;image)
I thought I may want to hook this kid up to the internet, so I took an ivory color Cat5E connector and plate and painted the plate hammered black.
Here is the IEC and the net jack both dry fitted in the cab:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=187905;image)
Im happy with it. (The big hole between them is for a fan.)
I also mounted two aluminum angles to the top section, my plan is to have the top panel resting on these, with bolts through the panel and into the angles. I will drill and tap into the aluminum angles.
I fastened them with 10/32" bolts and T nuts. I plan to fill in above the T nuts with bondo. (Several places will need the bondo before Im done.)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=187907;image)
I also cut a slot out in the upper back to let the hot air out. I did a rabbit cut on it and plan to use a piece of perforated aluminum to cover it from the inside. (If this makes sense).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=187909;image)
Well thats it for now. This mini cab is about as big a challenge as the regular cabs.
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Liking the power entry, something I should really do on mine.
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I've done the power entry myself, but I love the data jack idea! Great idea!
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Thanks guys for the kind comments.
I have found that when you get away from this hobby it takes a while to get back into the swing of things, but once you do its hard to hold back. Ive got to work 12 hour shifts this weekend, but Im really itching to get back on this project. I have cut out the lower marquee panel and cut out a hole for the speaker bar.
Here is a pic pf the speaker bar sitting on the bottom panel (Panel not mounted in cab yet.) You can see where I marked the cutout.
I dont have a pic of the cutout yet, but I cut it out with my jigsaw and need to do some more tweaking.
The idea is to have the speaker part sticking through the panel and flush with the panel.
Hopefully this will work, i will try to get some more pics when I get the cutout tweaked to a rageful satisfaction. Maybe next week I can get more done.
Until then I hope everyone has a nice weekend. Think about me while Im slaving away at the aluminum rolling mill! ;D
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=195197;image)
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Ok.. I know you guys think this project has fallen off the edge of the world or something, and I admit this project is going very sloooww... even for me.
Anyway, here is a little update:
Here is the front of the cabinet thus far.
Excuse the picture, for some reason the cab looks skewed. It is the camera or most likely the photographer.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=269630;image)
Here is the CP thus far. I decided to put a curve on the front edge. Still need to drill the control holes, but you can see my scribbles on how Im trying to decide how to place the controls.
Got to decide if I want it to hinge out towards the front of not. Hmmmm.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=269632;image)
I have the marquee box finished, and have a seperator to mount the light source to. (havent decided yet what kind of light source, maybe a 40 watt flourescent twisty bulb.)
I also plan to use two aluminum angle pieces to make the marquee retainer. I have the pieces cut, but need to drill and tap the mounting bolt holes.(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=269634;image)
Here's a shot of the speaker box. (Needs a good dusting)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=269636;image)
Here is another shot of the marquee area, with top cover removed.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=269638;image)
And a shot of the back door, partially open.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=269640;image)
And lastly, but not leastly. a hinge.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=269642;image)
Now I need to mount the monitor mounting method, decide how Im going to mount the CP, Cut out the CP, then I think I will be ready to paint this little beast.
I have also modified my LAN connector to incorporate a USB plug. I will post a pic next.
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Here is the modified LAN connector that will mount on the back side of the cab.
I cut out a hole for a panel mount USB 2.0 plug. (Not real happy with the repaint job.)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=269644;image)
And here is the backside with the ethernet cable connected to the lan plug. The scotch tape is to seal the plugs in hopes of keeping dust out (I promise the tape is not holding the plugs in LOL, but Im not above doing something like that).
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=269646;image)
Stay tuned, maybe this job will be finished before my grand daughter gets to old to play it. LOL
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Keeping the dust out?... Jennifer gets concerned, your not off your meds or something (are you?)...Giggle... Nice work on that cab.
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(Switching to my Mayor Adam West voice).
Yeah I ran out of the meds, but how did you know? Wait a minute, are YOU that voice in my head? I was beginning to wonder who you really were.... LOL.
Thanks for the comments.
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Glad to see progress Ken, looking good, now if only I could find time to finally finish mine.
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Thanks Darthpaul!
I hope everyone had a good Thanksgiving.
Just a quick little update on this project which is travel at the speed of snail.
I have shamelessly stolen a coin door idea from Louis Tulley. (Thanks Louis!)
First I bought soem sheet metal and a bar stock from Lowes, and had a friend who welds good fab up a door for me.
I then cut holes for the Groovey Game Gear coin buttons and two USB ports:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=272414;image)
Here is test fitting the buttons and usb ports:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=272416;image)
I touched up the corners, trying to get a good radius on outside corners, and using bondo, I put a radius on the inside corners. I wasnt real happy with teh results so I did some more work on the inside raduis of the corners. (sorry no pic.)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=272418;image)
And here it is after 3 coats of spray can primer. I plan to spray at least two coats of hammered black tomorrow, then I can get another pic of the buttons test mounted again:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=272420;image)
One more shot of primered coin door.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=272422;image)
Corners are still little rough, Im hoping the hammered paint will cover that better.
I plan to have the buttons and the usb port screws hold this fake door to the front of the cabinet, by going through the mdf panel.
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I like that, it's always more rewarding to make something instead of buying it, I just wish it didn't always take so long to make it :D
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Usb ports on the coin door...Never seen that before, (or someone make there own coin door), But that sure is cool looking,...Oh Jen
gets it now, the coin cups are missing and those are fake coin holes... Clever.
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Usb ports on the coin door...Never seen that before...
Yep, the usb ports are so the player can plug in a controller, also it sort of looks like coin return slots.
Got the home made coin door idea from Louis Tulley, since a real coin door would look too big on the smaller cabinet. And the usb port was originally Darthpauls idea.
And darthpaul: trust me I completely understand about slow work. How long has this project being going?
I need to steal Louis Tulleys work speed.
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Old man, that is going to look beautiful with a hammered finish! :cheers:
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And darthpaul: trust me I completely understand about slow work. How long has this project being going?
I'm just dragging it out because I wouldn't know what to do with myself if I ran out of things to build ;D
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Ok, here's a slight update:
Got 4 coats of black hammered paint on the coin door:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=272568;image)
Here is test mounted in the front of the cab:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=272570;image)
Here it is from a little far back:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=272572;image)
And here is the back view. (I dont have the bolts installed in the usb ports yet.):
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=272574;image)
Im pretty happy with the coin door.
Here is a pic of the boards I mounted to the bottom, the PC motherboard will fasten to these, and they should allow the air from the back fan to blow under the motherboard, and come up onto the hard drive:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=272576;image)
Here is a pic of how I mounted the LCD monitor, using 1/2" EMT conduit and hanger straps:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=272580;image)
Close up of the monitor mounting method:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=272578;image)
Im pretty happy with the monitor mount too.
Today was even happier for me. I went to the mail box and got a package from Groovy Game Gear.
These are illuminated stealth pushbuttons. They are a bit smaller than regular pushbuttons.
It would be neat if GGG offered stealth P1, P2 start buttons, but I couldnt find them if they do.
I ordered these early Friday morning and got them today. Super fast shipping, thanks GGG!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=272582;image)
Well, thats it for now, looks like it is fixing to rain, so I may have to wait a while to do more work. (My work area is small (12 X 16 feet), so I have to pull my riding mower out to get enough room to work on the cab.)
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Looking good man, keep it up! I love the black hammered paint look.
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Thanks kahlid!!
I had to hook up the lighted coin buttons to get a quick preview:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=272595;image)
The camera does not do them justice, but they are a little bright. Im thinking of putting in a pot insid eteh cab so the brightness can be adjusted.
On the usb ports, I taped the holes in the coin door for 4/40 bolts.
The bolts fasten the usb port to the metal plate, then go through the mdf. On the backside, I will attach 4/40 nuts to hold the coin door to the front of the cab. The reason I tapped the metal plate is that I plan to ground the plate through one of the bolts, so tapping the plate should give an electrically sound connection.
The USB ports have a removable grounding tab that grounds the usb shield to the usb port metal case. Im thinking I should remove this tab, since I will be grounding the metal plate with the above method.
Anyone have any thoughts on this?
Here is a close up of the 4/40 allen bolts Im using. (In my Slingblade voice: "Some folks call them cap bolts, I call them allen bolts. Hmmm")
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=272597;image)
This little lady is just about ready to prime, just need to concentrate on the marquee now.
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I'm diggin' the USB coin returns! :cheers:
You could add some cut vinyl decals to those buttons to make player buttons.
Black figures on a lit up background would look pretty good.
Not sure if Pongo is still selling his sheets or not. There is still a thread stickied in B/S/T.
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Those buttons look just like the black-rimmed ones that Paradise is selling.
You should be able to print on transparency media or someone mentioned using clear shipping labels somewhere IIRC. +1 to NOT using plain paper.
The attached PDF works great for inserts -- personally tested them in both the translucent and black-rimmed buttons from Paradise. (Let me know if you need something changed on it or want the original .PPT file instead.) :cheers:
Scott
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Hey thanks guys, and you were absolute right. The caps pop right off and there is a green
transparent translucent disc below the cap (see photo below).
Those buttons look great Louis, it would be nice if I printed out something like that but "A Little Rage" instead of "Street Fighter". But my skills are not good in the art department.
Thanks for the pdf file Scott, Im printing it out now just to see how well the cutouts will fit these buttons.
Here is the pic of the switch broken down:
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Just printed out the pdf file and tried one of the player 1 cutouts. It fits the switch perfectly! But I agree with you guys, I do not like the plain paper. Where can I get the transparent paper? Plus I have access to a laser printer at work, but as far as I know they dont have any transparent paper there.
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Just printed out the pdf file and tried one of the player 1 cutouts. It fits the switch perfectly! But I agree with you guys, I do not like the plain paper. Where can I get the transparent paper? Plus I have access to a laser printer at work, but as far as I know they dont have any transparent paper there.
Office stores like Staples or Office Depot carry it.
It's pretty expensive. I usually end up buying just a few sheets off ebay and waiting for it.
College bookstores will sell it by the single sheet.
I never asked at an office store if they'd sell a single sheet. They might.
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Another option that will be cheaper, put the PDF on a thumb drive and take it to FedEx/Kinkos. I think they can print it on clear sticker or transparency media for you.
Also some tips here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,122856.msg1304926.html#msg1304926) on trimming the inserts when printed on transparency media.
If you want to use adhesive labels, the type that I've seen mentioned is Avery #8665 (http://www.amazon.com/Avery-Full-Sheet-Labels-Inkjet-Printers/dp/B00006HUP7) 8-1/2" x 11".
EDIT: Just noticed that they also have a 10 sheet pack version available. (P/N 18665 (http://www.amazon.com/Avery-Full-Sheet-Printers-11-Inches-18665/dp/B002NEGTBU))
Scott
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If you want to use adhesive labels, the type that I've seen mentioned is Avery #8665 (http://www.amazon.com/Avery-Full-Sheet-Labels-Inkjet-Printers/dp/B00006HUP7) 8-1/2" x 11".
Sweet. I didn't know those existed.
I think I'll go that route instead of waiting on cut vinyl for my next project. :cheers:
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If you want to use adhesive labels, the type that I've seen mentioned is Avery #8665 (http://www.amazon.com/Avery-Full-Sheet-Labels-Inkjet-Printers/dp/B00006HUP7) 8-1/2" x 11".
Sweet. I didn't know those existed.
I think I'll go that route instead of waiting on cut vinyl for my next project. :cheers:
The only down side is that a 25 sheet pack runs about $20.
Just noticed that they also have a 10 sheet pack version available for about $12. (P/N 18665 (http://www.amazon.com/Avery-Full-Sheet-Printers-11-Inches-18665/dp/B002NEGTBU))
Scott
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Those labels do look very interesting.
Ive been playing around with Win7 Paint and made P1 and P2 start button inserts.
I wanted to write "Player 1 Start", but didnt have enough room.
Here are the two inserts, one still on the sheet and the other mounted in the button.
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Ok, which do you like best? P1/P2 or Ms Pacman?
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I like the figures better than Ms. Pacman.
Ms. Pacman and green just don't go together.
I was going to suggest modifying the standard figures to make them look like they are "raging".
Arms in the air or hand to their heads...or something.
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Yeah, the green doesnt really match her, does it?
Of course when I get these printed on transparent paper, I will remove the background, but the button discs behind it will still be green, thats why I printed them now with the green background, trying to get a feel of how it will look on the button.
Edit: How do these look?
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Thanks Louis, I like it!
Im going to add that to the sheet. I bought two transparency sheets at Office Depot in BG for 50 cents each.
The guy told me to use them on a laser printer because a inkjet would smear.
Well when I got home I couldnt resist trying it.
The guy was right. It looked like crap on my printer so I wasted one sheet.
I plan to take the other sheet in to work this weekend and try it on a laser printer.
In the meantime, keep the ideas coming.
Now I got to order some more of those buttons from GGG. Not very efficient postage wise to split up the orders, but sometimes I guess it happens.
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Ok, just a quick catch up.
I have the cabinet primed inside and out.
I had some left over white primer so I used it on the inside, but it wasnt enough to do the outside so I had to buy some more. They were out of white so I picked up grey.
So far I have painted the middle part of the outside black.
This pic also shows the coin door mounted. (Perhaps a better name for that would be credit panel, since it doesnt take coins and its not a door.)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=274096;image)
I pained parts of the inside black, just in case any cracks show up between the panels.
In this pic you can also see the grey primer on the side. I got a few drops of black on there which I rubbed down before it dried. I have since sanded these places down and re-primed.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=274098;image)
Here is the power entry box mounted (glare from the flash is crazy). The green wire inside attaches to the box with a fork connector and a screw, and it will be soldered to the power entry plug.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=274100;image)
Here is an inside view of the same box. A green wire is attached to a screw. This will ground all the casters and the credit panel. This screw on the box will be my central connection point for all earth grounds.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=274102;image)
The green ground wire loops to all casters, and ends up grounding the credit panel.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=274104;image)
I have also been doing a lot of work on the computer and software. Due to the weather, I have had most of my time doing that.
I dont think Im going to finish this project before Christmas, so I may have to wait until March and give it to my grand daughter on her birthday.
The weather really sucks in Ky this time of year, plus I had a bad sinus infection last week that robbed a lot of my project time. (Turning off whining mode now.)
I would like your opinion on something.
The sides of the cabinet: I have been told to paint it pink since it is for a girl. My original plan was light green (or maybe not real light green). This would fall more in line with the original The Rage.
The t-molding will be white.
What do you think?
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Girl stuff doesn't always have to be pink with princesses on it.
I'd stick with the green, assuming it's the same color currently surrounding the USB coin returns.
Just my $.02
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I recall the problems of getting a cabinet finished in the winter in time for Christmas.
Years ago, I resorted to clearing out the dining room to paint since it was a little too cold here in Minnesota. :P
I finished enough of the cabinet to give it to my nephews for Christmas but never went back to fix the little details I glossed over to get it done in time.
I like the idea of a light green (pastel) type color like the rings around the USB ports.
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I'm with the rest, stick with the green and don't rush the build, in the end you'll regret it, we all do.
That is going to be one happy little lady when she sees this.
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Thanks guys, green it is!
I took one of the usb trim pieces to walmart to match as best I could.
Wound up choosing "Green Arbor Walk". which is just a shade lighter than the trim, but its as close as I could get at walmart.
I will post a pic of the paint job when Im finished.
And BTW, Merry Christmas everyone!
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Merry Christmas (or Happy Holidays) to all. I hope you had a good one.
I broke down and brought A Little Rage into the house.
I have one side painted, waiting for the paint to set in good before I flip it over to do the other side (hopefully tomorrow).
Here is a pic of the underneath.
I painted it chrome color to help reflect the led light.
The light is bright, but its not real bright when the cab is standing up, so I may not have to add a dimmer pot for it, like I had originally planned. I may still put a switch inside the cab so it can be turned off, if desired. The little black block in the center is the led light. It has 3 super bright green leds.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=274515;image)
Here is the one side with the green paint. Im glad I listened to you guys, I think this color looks better than the pink would.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=274517;image)
Well thats it for now. Hope everyone has a good weekend and a Happy New Year!
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Thanks Louis.
I got the other side painted today. Here is a pic showing the usb trims too.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=274578;image)
Got to work midnight shift starting tonight. 12 hours Saturday and 12 hours Sunday nights.
Hopefully Monday afternoon I can do a close inspection to see if any spots need touching up. If not it will be time for the t-molding.
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That color looks sweet! :burgerking:
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Looks nice and clean, ohh and green.
Hope it is t-mold time, love the green - keep seeing sweets though! ;) .
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Damn, your paint job looks so smooth!
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A bald choice on that color but I say I really like it also far 8)
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I knew you had some Jedi in you with that green paint ;D. I'm curious to see how bright those LEDs are, I was thinking of some under cab lighting but I was thinking about using strip lighting.
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Thanks for the kind comments guys.
Darthpaul, may the force be with you, those leds are pretty bright, but they throw off three spots, which are distinctive from even a few feet away from the surface. I have two of them, Im thinking of mounting both. I tried temporary fixing the two with tape and i think I like the results much better. Anyway Im thinking of positioning the one led opposite from what it is in above pic. It will be fastened to the front, shining towards the back. Then the other would be fastened to the very back, facing front. They both will be shining towards the (near) center brace.
It seems like I get a more even glow around the bottom this way.
I was thinking of using the second one for the marquee light, but I dont like the way the three spots look.
Anyway, I got the lights at superbrightleds.com.
They have all kinds of leds, including strip lights. They are pretty reasonable price wise too. Check them out to see if they have what you are looking for.
Im going to need some ideas about the control panel artwork, so put your thinking caps on fellas.
I will post the CP layout (control wise) soon.
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Alrighty then! I have installed the t-molding and the speaker bar.
I like the way the green paint turned out, but Im not happy at all with the black parts.
But Im not going to sand it all down and re-do, so I guess I will have to live with it.
Oh well.
Here are some pics:
T-molding, and cab side view:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=274744;image)
T-molding and cab back view (Door not on of course)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=274746;image)
I-molding and cab front view:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=274748;image)
Back top section, showing air vent grill:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=274750;image)
Speaker bar mounted:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=274752;image)
Speaker bar and speaker panel. (This is a section of the black paint I do not like):
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=274754;image)
Ok I guess thats it for now. I think next up will be installing monitor and deciding how im going to mount the power supply and the power strip.
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It's slick how the volume control is accessible without having to do any extra work.
Might have to look into those sound bars for future builds.
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I do like the sound bar, but it's a pita cutting out the MDF for it to fit.
I have thrown together a marquee. What do you think? Open to all suggestions, dont worry about stepping on my toes..
Edit: I forgot to trim it (not finished yet). The white part and the lighter dark part will be cut out in the finished product. real size is 19.5" by 4.125"
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The font seems a little busy to Jennifer...Maybe at a distance?... I do love the color though and how you brought it across the marquee like that.
Im not a mame kinda girl, so the multiple caratures took a minute to digest, (I think Spidy is Hot!)....It does flow nice, But if it was mine, Well
Id change the font, make "A Little" a bit smaller And focus on a bigger "Rage", and prehaps add a tiny multi-cade underneath...and leave the art alone.
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The font seems a little busy to Jennifer...Maybe at a distance?... I do love the color though and how you brought it across the marquee like that.
Im not a mame kinda girl, so the multiple caratures took a minute to digest, (I think Spidy is Hot!)....It does flow nice, But if it was mine, Well
Id change the font, make "A Little" a bit smaller And focus on a bigger "Rage", and prehaps add a tiny multi-cade underneath...and leave the art alone.
I like your ideas. Im using a neon font, trying to reproduce (to some degree) the el-wire neon marquee I did for The Rage. Not sure how that would look going from small to large, kinda like a triangle, or perhaps you mean make "A LITTLE" smaller than "RAGE"?
Which characters should I loose? Also, what do you mean by multicade?
And, I honestly think Ms Pacman is pretty dang hot !! >:D
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I think you should lose all of the characters. If you really want characters on the marquee I would stick with just one or two.
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I think you should lose all of the characters. If you really want characters on the marquee I would stick with just one or two.
Thanks! On The Rage I only had "THE RAGE" in neon and pacman on one end and Donkey Kong throwing a barrel on the other end of the lettering.
Let me see if I can find a pic, just for comparison.
Edit: Here are a couple of pics. First is the finished "The Rage" second is the marquee during Work In Progress.
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I like that much better. Maybe for A Little Rage, you can put DK Jr and Pac Jr on the marquee. Nice way to tie the two cabs together.
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Just had a wild idea. How does this look?
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And here is Nesphasths idea:
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And here is Nesphasths idea:
Thats Diddy Kong, not DK Jr. :P
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And here is Nesphasths idea:
Thats Diddy Kong, not DK Jr. :P
DOH!!
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I was thinking something along the lines of...
(http://www.mariowiki.com/images/8/82/DonkeyKongJRKey.gif)
(http://images4.wikia.nocookie.net/__cb20090524041814/pacman/images/4/4d/PacmanJrOriginal.jpg)
Or if you wanted to keep it girl oriented you could use Ms Pacman and that girl donkey kong from whatever donkey kong country game she was in... Dixie Kong? ...I'm drawing a blank.
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Sounds good. I will play around with that idea.
Here is the real DKJr. I really kinda like the diddy kong better.
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Since you like the neon so, couldn't you use real neon, and hologram characters, or maybe translucent behind safety glass?
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That sounds real good Jennifer. I used el wire on The Rage, which turned out looking real close to real neon. How would I do what you suggest?
Here is Nesphashts suggestion:
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Ive seen glass and neon signs made, I think haveing one made, pay for the experience would be my guess.... Or learn it on the Utube maybe.
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Are you talking about etching?
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My one concern is all that black, my first Marquee had a lot of black in it and when the light was turned on, it looked gray, I do like the neon font.
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Are you talking about etching?
Sounds a little like your original plan.
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No, I mean glassbending, and filling with neon....Signmakers do this, rather than reinvent the wheell maybe just have one made... It is a
interesting subject, You should google it and see how its done anyway.
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Sounds interesting Jennifer, I will check that out.
Darthpaul:
Yes the black appearing gray may be a problem. I will print it here first to test it, once I decide which one to use.
And to answer your second post: Yeah it is. I still think it would be a great idea.
My sister and her hubby gave me a scroll saw for Christmas. I havent had a chance to play with it yet, but I wonder if I could get a round (?) blade that would cut about the same width as the neon font? The saw does not have a belt type blade, it moves up and down like a jig saw, but the blade is fastened on both ends, so Im hoping I can find a round blade which would give me the rounded ends of the neon font.
Im thinking maybe cutting out the neon lettering in a 1/4" MDF. Then let the light shine through it.
If I keep changing the battle plan I may not get this done before her birthday.
On a different note:
I masked off the top part of the cab, around the air vent and sanded it and re applied the paint with a roller. I think it looks better, will check it out tomorrow in the sunlight. If it looks better I guess I will redo the coin door panel and the lower back. The top and back door will be easy to redo, they are removable.
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Alrighty, now for something totally different.
I got a LED light bar from superbrightleds.com. The name fits cause this baby is bright!
I am thinking about using it for the marquee light, but I have also been tossing around the notion to make the marquee the same way as I did on The Rage, using El-Glow wire. (Smaller letters and nearly twice as many. oh my.)
Anyway, I was playing around with the led bar and have decided it is way too bright.
So I threw together a simple circuit using a 555 timer to pulse the light bar.
(555 circuit shamelessly stolen from here (http://www.sentex.ca/~mec1995/circ/pwm555.html))
This is a pretty neat (and simple) way to control led brightness.
Here is a pic of it with the pot set at approx 50%.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=275002;image)
And pot at 100%:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=275004;image)
The camera does not do it justice.
EDIT:fixed link.
EDIT II (The sequel): I sanded down the bad paint job on the front panel and speaker panel and re-painted. I used a roller and light pressure. I am much happier with the results. I am currently letting the paint cure.
Next I have to re-do the lower back panel (fan and power entry).
The back door and top panel dont look too bad, but I may redo them just to be sure all match.
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Thanks everyone for your input on the marquees. I asked my son to let his daughter pick out the one she likes best, he's not going to tell her what it's for.
I have talked myself out of using el-wire like I did on The Rage. I dont think it will turn out very good with the router, the font is a smaller size. If I only had a CNC (sigh).
Anyway, I have a small update to post.
I have the first terminal strip mounted (TS1 for the credit buttons/lights.
Here is a pic of it mounted:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=275121;image)
I mounted it with 2 small bolts (2-56 X 3/4" long)
The bolts didnt quite make it through the wood panel, and thats what I wanted.
On the other side I counter-sunk two holes close to the diameter of the nut. I then pulled the nut into the wood with the screw.
After mounting the TS1, I laid the cab on its back and dabbed a little grease on the bolt sticking through the nut. I then filled the two holes with wood glue. Hopefully this will hold the nuts in place if I ever have to remove the TS1.
The bolt holes will be hid behind the credit panel.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=275123;image)
Sorry about the blurred pics, I really need to dig out the tripod and get some decent shots.
After the glue dries, I plan to repaint the lower back panel, or start on the back door hinge mounting. I'll see how I feel after a while.
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Putting off the painting until tomorrow.
Did get the bottom leds mounted. Moved them to outside edge, shining towards the center brace.
I think they will be brighter than this later, right now I have them hooked to my breadboard power supply and they are probably pulling the voltage down.
I also covered the holes I made for the first mount with reflective tape.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=275128;image)
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Just dropped in to see what condition my condition was in. (Anyone remember that song?)
Ok, I have been racing along at the speed of a glacier.
I have the back door and the top re-painted. Am much happier with the results.
Just to catch up a bit, here is a shot of the back door, temporary mounted for test fitting.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=276087;image)
Need to remove door and grind off the edges, I got too much paint on them and it is too tight a fit.
Here is the led strip for the marquee, lit at full brightness. I plan to dim it with the PWM circuit I posted earlier.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=276083;image)
And here is the CP, test fitted. All I have done on it is the trackball hole.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=276085;image)
A bad picture of the power entry, fan, and USB/LAN connections:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=276089;image)
A pic of the marque led strip turned off:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=276091;image)
The wiring begins!
(What a rats nest! But it will get better, I promise.)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=276093;image)
The Credit buttons wired to TS1 and the CP plug.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=276095;image)
Earth wire from CP Plug not connected yet, waiting for the silicone caulking to dry on the green earth wire. This should hold the wire to the cabinet, then I can remove the green tape and attach the CP plug earth wire to the same bolts as this green Earth wire.
Birds eye view of my switched power strip, connected to entry box with a plug I cut off an extension cord.
(And more of the rats nest in the bottom of the cab.)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=276097;image)
And another shot of the power strip.
(I sure am proud of that rats nest aint I?
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=276099;image)
Ok, thats it for now.
Got to take the back door off and skim some paint off the edges, then I plan to mount monitor and then the computer MB and power supply.
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Looking good!
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Very well executed so far, you are the Master. :notworthy:
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Thanks Santoro and Darthpaul!
Here is a quick update.
I got the monitor mounted last night:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=276435;image)
And front view, with the bezel installed:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=276437;image)
I got a scratch on the monitor glass. Anyone know a good way to remove this? I think it's really only noticeable with the monitor off but still..
And I am just about finished with my PWM module to control marquee led strip brightness, and under cab led brightness.
I used the PWM circuit I mentioned earlier (see "Circuits" thread for schematic diagram).
I made two circuits on one board. Still got to cut the shafts off those pots and get a couple of knobs.
The PWM circuit works pretty good. LEDs go from just barely on to 99% full bright.
Board footprint is 1-3/8" X 2-7/8" (approx.) So the board looks bigger in the pic than it really is.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=276439;image)
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Ok, I have been doing quite a bit in between my paying job and sleep. Almost have the cab wiring complete. Got the marquee printed out. I was going to wait until I got the wiring done to post an update but I got to show you the marquee.
Im not real happy with the way it turned out. First of all, it didnt print out correctly size wize.
The size is too narrow and the length is just a little shy.
Here is a pic of it lighted up. No camera flash and led strip to about 40% bright.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=276770;image)
You can see light coming through the sides and the bottom. I can probably move the paper down some and split the difference between top and bottom, but not a lot I can do about the sides, unless I put something behind the glass.
But with the led strip off, you can see a white border around it, not desirable.
Im also not real crazy about how the green lights up the characters. Im now thinking about putting white or yellow leds behind these two spots.
Note to self: Take a tape measure next time I have something printed to be sure they get it right.
Can someone take this picture and size it correctly for me? It needs to be 4" width by 19.50" length.
PM me if you wouldnt mind doing it, I can send you the file.
I know there are a lot of talented photo editing people on here, Im not one.
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DaOld Man, Great work. I had the same problem with bleeding light from the marquee. I used a long caulking gun with a mini tip and that took care of problems on my end.
Jigenjuke
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Nintendo cabs have a thin strip of plywood (for your situation 3/4" x 4" 3/16" thick would work great) that is placed the sides of the cab just behind the plexi on both edges to block out bleeding light.
good day.
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Thanks guys. I tried some black tape, but may try your suggestions because a little light still gets through.
Now for a marquee update.
Chopperthedog took my marque image and re sized it. (Thanks Chopper, I really appreciate it.)
I got it printed out yesterday at Office Depot. I took my pocket tape measure to insure it was the right size this time.
Chopperthedog made the black part 0.5" bigger in length and width. He also centered the image for me.
I wound up centering the printed marquees (I got two copies and doubled them) on one of the plexi glasses. I then trimmed the pics to fit the plexi with a razor knife.
It turned out very good this time.
Here is a pic of it mounted in the cab, led strip turned off, ambient light on, flash on cam on:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=276850;image)
Got to remember to take a tape measure whenever I get something printed in the future.
And here it is with led strip full on, ambient light off, and flash off (You can see light bleeding around edges):
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=276852;image)
And here it is with black tape inside each side corner and led strip about 25% (this pic turned out blurred, not sure why):
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=276854;image)
And final pic is ambient light on, led at 25%, flash off. (Why is it blurred again? Im using a tripod):
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=276856;image)
Now I still do not like the characters looking green from the green led light. Im working out the details to light up these two areas with white or yellow LEDs.
More to follow.
Wiring update: Almost finished, just got to figure out how Im going to mount the PC power supply so it wont move when the cab is transported. That and a little tidying up with wire ties is all thats left, Im pretty sure.
Then it's on to the control panel.
This project is nearing the finish line, thanks everyone for your help, but dont close the help desk just yet.
Im open for ideas for side art.
Griffindod tossed out a couple ideas at the start of this project, but I think I would rather have something smaller for the sides, got to show off my fancy green paint! (I am cringing at the thought of getting side art printed out, let alone applying it.)
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Looking good, don't be so hard on yourself, I do have one question, why not print the lettering in green and use white LEDs, this will solve the problem with the coloring of the Characters.
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Thanks man.
That would be way too easy.
That is what I should have done to start with, but to do it now I would have to buy another LED strip and have the marquee printed again.
How do you think it would look if I colored in the white lettering with a green sharpy? Nah.
I might could put a green piece of plastic behind the lettering, and use a white light. Hmmmm. I happen to have a green plastic clipboard that could be sacrificed.
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Just a little update.
I found some "Poppa Johns Pizza" garlic sauce containers at work (someone had pizza last week).
These are small round white plastic containers, and they will work perfect to light up my marquee characters.
I scooped them up and brought them home.
On the way I stopped by Radio Shack and picked up some super bright white LEDs.
I cut a hole in the bottom of one container and stuck the led through.
I temporarily stuck the contraption behind one of the characters.
Can you tell which one has the white led behind it?
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=276896;image)
I guess it's true. One mans trash is another mans treasure.
I plan to detail what Im doing with the trash later.
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:applaud: :cheers:
And I pondered all of the options. i.e. coloring the letters, adding green gel and so on. But the only thing in my head to "retain" the ambiance of the same green leds that highlight other areas of the cab was to hot spot the characters with white. And these were just half assed thoughts as I was doing the pixel by pixel edits to edges of the new images of the characters I had a thought (these would look cool lit up separately now). Neat stuff.
good day.
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:applaud: :cheers:
And I pondered all of the options. i.e. coloring the letters, adding green gel and so on. But the only thing in my head to "retain" the ambiance of the same green leds that highlight other areas of the cab was to hot spot the characters with white. And these were just half assed thoughts as I was doing the pixel by pixel edits to edges of the new images of the characters I had a thought (these would look cool lit up separately now). Neat stuff.
good day.
Thanks Chop. I sorta figured you were working on a solution for me. :)
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Ok, I decided to take a break from the marquee lighting and take some up to date pictures.
I think I have finished the cab wiring.
Here is a shot of the back, with the door on (Still got to install the lock.)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=276990;image)
Close up of power connections (Have not installed the serial plate yet, and need to label fuse, usb and LAN connects.)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=276992;image)
Bottom wiring. (I think its moved up from rests nest to squirrel nest)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=276980;image)
Back of monitor, with power block:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=276982;image)
Credit panel wiring, Control Panel Plug:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=276984;image)
Marquee lights and under cab (floor) lights brightness control:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=276986;image)
Speaker volume limit and service switch (Need labels):
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=276988;image)
Shot of bottom wiring, looking through CP opening:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=276994;image)
Unfinished control panel, test fitted:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=276996;image)
Now I need you honest opinions about my proposed CP layout:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=276998;image)
Do you like the layout?
Do you think player controls are too far up? (towards monitor?)
Do I need mouse buttons?
Thanks for checking in. Hope you like my work so far.
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A long time ago I had mouse buttons wired to mine and it lasted about 2 weeks before I had the buttons wired to encoder. It just lead to people left and right clicking things.
I do dig the layout. I always hate to see a trackball buried. And not just for the superman golden tee moves but for games like marble madness, centipede, missle command and so on, where some room is needed for quick swiping actions in all directions.
How high is the front lip of the panel from the floor? And how deep is it (twss) and the pitch? It will help others to visualize to try to physically visualize what you got goin on.
good day.
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Thanks Chop.
The bottom of the CP (player side) is about 27.25" from floor to top of CP. The upper side (next to monitor) is about 32.5" from floor.
I have thought about making P1 button 2 & 3 the mouse click buttons, but only if the cab is in service mode.
Thought about just lighting these two buttons and make the trackball red when in service mode. (Windows desktop).
Im going to use an LED wiz to light the buttons and the trackball. Trackball will have a RGB led, so I can probably make it just about any color I want. (Or at least I think I can, gotta work on writing directly to the led wiz.)
When not in service mode, the buttons and trackball will work normally. (Arcade mode.)
But... is it worth the extra effort? (I do have two USB plugs on the front of the cab so a mouse and/or keyboard can be plugged in at any time.)
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Keep the track ball as far away from everything as possible, I'm always hitting my hand when I play golf. I have dropped my keyboard and mouse for thishttp://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SQ5OYO/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i01 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004SQ5OYO/ref=oh_details_o07_s00_i01) It takes a little getting used to but i really like it. I need to save some of these pictures for future reference on how to wire a MAME Machine.
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Thanks Paul, that hand held keyboard looks neat. Not really a bad price for a specialty item like that.
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In this pic, I have dropped the buttons down so that the 4 even ones are center of the joystick.
I think I like this better.
Im not real sure about the two left buttons being dropped down lower than the 4. What do you think?
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I like the semi random look of the offset, Like its set up for some super fast quick move trick... I have recently decided to take a new look at Mame,Since I have little practical knowledge of it, Jernnifer shall use this thread as my template, Currently Im looking into Hyperspin, And Roms that are not corrupt...This may have been the problem up to this point.
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I have a similar button layout on my current build and I like it.
I don't think it's superior or inferior to the straight 6, but I like it a little bit more.
It started out as a curved layout, but I kept tweaking it until it felt right.
By the end, the middle four buttons were in a square.
Part of it was just that I wanted to do something different. :laugh:
Deciding where the joystick and buttons were in relation to each other was also done by trial and error until it just "felt right".
I think they ended up just above the center point of the bottom center buttons.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,119308.msg1331143.html#msg1331143 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,119308.msg1331143.html#msg1331143)
EDIT.....hey wait a minute, all your button placements look somewhat similar to mine....
It's all good. :cheers:
DOUBLE EDIT: I've actually moved my P1 & P2 buttons in a newer revision. ;)
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P2 seems a little too close to the edge. Its definitely an odd shape, I cant reallly tell the scale, but how far from the bottom are the sticks, 14 inches? That wouldnt be comfortable for me.
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Thanks Jennifer! Feel free to ask if you have any questions about what I did.
Thanks BadMouth, Im not 100% sure who I stole the button layout from (it is not my original idea), it might have been you! :-[
Thanks Malenko, I put the P2 controls as close as I could to the edge same with P1, due mostly to the width of the cabinet. I think I widened it a bit more from original plan just because I wanted 6 buttons for each player. Also, I wanted to keep the P2 joystick as far away from the trackball as possible.
But Im open for suggestions.
Oh, and that pic is not to true scale. P1 joystick and P2 joystick are 8.5" center of stick to lower edge of CP. Again, this is to make room for the trackball, but I am worried about my G-daughter reaching them comfortably. I guess I could move TB up and controls down, but as I get near the bottom of CP, I run out of underneath clearance, down to ~3". Not sure how close I could get the joysticks to the edge and still have enough clearance underneath.
Thanks for the comments, please keep em coming.
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Hey there DaOld Man, looks great!
As far as suggestions about your track ball. Years ago I came across someone who had made his/her trackball on a rotating panel that could be rotated up to be used and locked into place. When not using the trackball it could be unlocked and rotated into the control panel so that wasn't in the way when playing fighting games and the like.
I always thought that this was an interesting idea but never used it in any of my cabinets.
May have a few ideas on how to implement it.
Might be kind of cool, might be a logistic nightmare.
I think that you layout looks great! I might move the joysticks and buttons on the right a little more to the left but, Awesome cabinet.
Jigenjuke
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Thanks Jigenjuke. How far would you move P2 controls to the left? I am really afraid P2 joystick will be in the line of fire of the trackball.
Speaking of changing panels, Darthpaul was working on an ingenious approach to that, but I think he got side tracked.
On this cab, I did engineer (or is it rig up?) a fairly easy way to swap control panels, using the molex plug it could be easy to change them out, but I dont have any storage area on this cab for spare CPs, plus I havent figured out an easy latch/unlatch system yet to hold the CP in place.
But I dont know how the molex plug would hold up under a constant switching back in forth.
I planned on the molex plug for as my grandaughter grows, I may redesign another CP later, but for now, Im going with 2 player + trackball.
There's not a lot of room on that CP for much else, so the molex plug might not be necessary, but it sure looks neat.
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I like it, try not to over think it too much, it will make you crazy, I know, that's why I needed to get side tracked for awhile. I'm sure your Granddaughter will love it no matter what the position of the buttons.
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Thanks DarthPaul. You are right, I shouldn't be over-thinking things.
Well, a lot of crap has recently came my way, and I figure the best medicine would be to do something to take my mind off it.
So here is an update.
First, here are the Pizza garlic sauce containers, with a bright white led hot glued into the bottom of each.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=277752;image)
I put a piece of scotch tape over each to diffuse a hotspot from the brightness.
I found they were washing out the green a little, so I wrapped the cups in black electrical tape, then attached them to the marquee with green frog tape.
Here it is lit up with the green light:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=277754;image)
And here is the final result:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=277764;image)
The white in the characters are white, I dont know why they show up blue in this pic.
The speaker and marquee power:
I did not account for the speaker and marquee lights being in the way of the monitor plexi, so I added a system to easily disconnect speaker and marquee so that the plexi glass can pull up and out.
(In hindsite, I should have routed a trench in the side panel to allow the wires to be flush).
Here is the marquee and earth ground connections (TS2):
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=277748;image)
And here are speaker power and audio connections:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=277750;image)
Notice the green frog tape? That is to seal the slot for the monitor plexi glass. I was going to put a thick black poster cutout between monitor and plexi, but later decided not to use the poster board.
And now a little labeling.
Power entry:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=277756;image)
USB/LAN plate:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=277758;image)
Back door lock installed:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=277760;image)
And I got all the holes drilled in the control panel. Also got the plexi for it drilled and fitted.
Here is a pic with buttons and trackball test fitted:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=277762;image)
I have green bat handle joysticks on the way.
I need to counter sink the holes for joystick mounts (t-nuts).
Also need to figure out how Im going to mount the trackball.
Then its bondo time to fill in the center punch holes I made from the first CP theme I had going on.
Then it's painting time.
It's cold here right now, but hopefully it will be warm enough for paint later in the week.
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Looks great!
Also need to figure out how Im going to mount the trackball
A buddy of mine did the best mount of that trackball I've ever seen using a modified mounting plate:
(http://i.imgur.com/TvxMTh.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/RqLX2h.jpg)
(http://i.imgur.com/3MG7Nh.jpg)
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Thanks sharpfork! I dont have a TB plate to fit this one so i think I will have to go with something different.
(Updates soon).
How do you like that trackball?
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Teaser photo:
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:notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
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Looking good!
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Thanks Darthpaul and Thatpurplestuff!
It does not take long for projects to move down the list! I had to go to page 2 to get the latest post on this, but that's a good thing, it means people are working and creating.
Now for a little update for my personal project, A Little Rage.
I have finished the CP wiring.
Here is the way I mounted the sparkfun 2-1/2" trackball:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=280522;image)
And here is the CP wiring complete. (I still am contemplating the way I attached the led for the trackball):
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=280524;image)
A close up of the keywiz eco wiring:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=280526;image)
And a close up of the LED wiz wiring:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=280528;image)
6 days till I have to present this to the final judge, my grand daughter, Gracie.
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Well, I think I can call this project done. Well, almost, i still got to tweak some Mala and emulator stuff, but I got tonight and tomorrow to do that.
My grand daughter, Gracie turns 3 years old tomorrow (Friday), but her party is Saturday, so I got till then.
Here is a pic of the control panel, before cleaning up my fingerprints:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=281045;image)
A closer view of the CP, with some of the buttons lit up:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=281047;image)
A front view showing Marquee and control panel. (I dont know why the white in the marquee characters show up blue in the pics?):
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=281049;image)
The credit panel:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=281051;image)
Side view:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=281053;image)
Back view:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=281055;image)
Closeup of the serial plate:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=281057;image)
Full frontal view. (I have been using my dining area as a workshop because of the nasty weather outside. Please overlook the mess.)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=281059;image)
And lastly, but not leastly, a pic of yours truly beside A Little Rage for size comparison. ( I am about 5' 9" in height.):
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=281061;image)
It is a very satisfying feeling when you finally finish a project like this.
But the really satisfying part will be watching Gracie playing with it Saturday. (I may post pics of that later.)
Still got to iron out some of the emulator issues, and I cant get the led wiz to light the buttons on any emulator but mame. I would appreciate help on this.
Thanks for following this project and for all the comments, suggestions, hints, and opinions from everyone.
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That's awesome for kids...nice!
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Well done! :applaud:
Nothing beats seeing kids' excitement around machines like this.
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I really dig this build. Nice design and implementation + solid construction and creative problem solving. I think the "coin door" is pure genius!
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What a lucky little lady :applaud: :applaud: .
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That is awesome! Good job! :applaud:
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looks good man, something to be proud of for sure.
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That is nice...Now you will have to start ALL over and make one for yourself.
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Well I'm a dumbass... I guess I haven't been paying attention and thought it was a full size cab this whole time. :dizzy:
Looks sweet!!!!
good day.
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Well I'm a dumbass... I guess I haven't been paying attention and thought it was a full size cab this whole time. :dizzy:
Haha, me too!
Good job on it old, I love looking at these mini cabs. Something awfully cute about them.
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Well I'm a dumbass... I guess I haven't been paying attention and thought it was a full size cab this whole time. :dizzy:
Haha, me too!
Good job on it old, I love looking at these mini cabs. Something awfully cute about them.
The kicker is, I edited his marquee to 20" x 4 1/2" and it didn't even register at that point. :laugh2: I was in the mode of just adding a 1/2" all around for trimming bleed.
puff puff, pass.....
good day.
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The kicker is, I edited his marquee to 20" x 4 1/2" and it didn't even register at that point. :laugh2: I was in the mode of just adding a 1/2" all around for trimming bleed.
puff puff, pass.....
good day.
HAHAHA, smooth ;D
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I really liked the way you handled the monitor stand and the coin door!
Nice job! :applaud:
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Thanks for all the kind comments guys! I could not have done it without the help of the people on this forum.
My grand daughter accepted the arcade cab and she really loved it, so this project is now officially finished! (I do plan to get all my paper work together and make a sort of users manual for it, but that may not ever get done. LOL)
Here is a pic of her and a friend playing World Class Bowling.
This is what makes all the work worthwhile, and we all know that this so called hobby is a lot more than just a hobby.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=282988;image)
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(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=282988;image)
:cheers:
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Absolutely beautiful Ken, I'm sure she is going to keep it forever and someday maybe your great grandchildren will someday be playing it.
That serial number plate is a nice touch.
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Thanks Paul and Yotsuya!
Hopefully I will be around to watch my great grand kids play a few games of Pacman on it!
I told Gracie that she will have to train her little sister on how to use it when she gets here (due in late May).
She said she sure would.
Her mom told me that Gracie asked her if she could have an arcade cake next year for her birthday! LOL.
The arcade experience still lives my friends! It still lives.
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looking good mate :cheers:,hopefully I'll make my deadline and get mine done for my boys birthday
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That is a wonderful result/payoff! :cheers:
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Great Job! I really like how neat your wiring is!
Can you tell me the part number and source for the relay you used in the power strip? I would like to copy that idea.
Justin
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Thanks guys!! Appreciate the kind words!
Can you tell me the part number and source for the relay you used in the power strip? I would like to copy that idea.
Justin
The relay and socket i used was from Radio Shack:
Radio Shack #275-0220 10 Amp relay socket -- $2.99
Radio Shack #275-0218 10 Amp DPDT 12 VDC coil Relay -- $9.59
You can probably find them cheaper off the net, and the socket isnt totally necessary, but will make it easier to fix if the relay ever craps out.
Just about any relay will do, as long as the coil is 12 or 5 volts DC, and the contacts are rated for the current your system will pull (usually 10 amps is plenty), and make sure contacts are rated for the voltage you are switching (IE 125 VAC).
This thread has a better pic of how I mounted the socket, and it shows how to do it cheaper than what I did:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,103905.msg1290572.html#msg1290572 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,103905.msg1290572.html#msg1290572)
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Hi Da'. I just tuned into this project for the 1st time now--I knew because it was yours that it would b amazing, & I was NOT disappointed. Bravo!
I have a dumb question: those beautiful labels on the wires running from your encoder & Led-wiz--duh, how'd u do that? :dunno
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Very nice build. And what I reward it must have been to see that big smiling face. Great Job man Great Job... :notworthy:
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Glad this got bumped today. I had missed the pic of the happy recipient!
:applaud:
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Congratulations on a beautiful looking cab. Very nicely documented as well, plenty of willingness to take advice from the BYOAC community. Proof you can teach an ol dog new tricks (I include myself in the ol dog category BTW) :). Also the hands down winner for best happy child photo IMO.
cheers
Ond
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Awesome work! Where the heck did you get that sweet little trackball? How many mm is it? Point the way please :notworthy:
Jigenjuke
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Glad this got bumped today. I had missed the pic of the happy recipient!
:applaud:
Ditto. Awesome turn out! :applaud:
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Where the heck did you get that sweet little trackball? How many mm is it?
It's a 2.25" available here (http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/en/trackball/47-ps2-led-trackball-0855742000470.html) at Paradise.
Sparkfun also has one here (https://www.sparkfun.com/products/10758) that is listed as a 2", but I'm pretty sure it's the same unit.
The only downside is the lack of mounting plates IIRC.
Degenatrons worked around that on a 12mm CP using this (http://kadevice.tk/forum/viewtopic.php?f=47&t=398) method.
Scott
EDIT: Updated mount method URL.
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Ive been off here a while folks due to a new granddaughter! (Gracie has a little sister!)
Thanks for all the kind comments!
The labels I used are from a machine that prints on a tube that is heat shrinkable.
The trackball is the one from Sparkfun that PL1 linked to. I removed the leds from it and used a tri color led from Groovy Game Gear, that way it is controlled by the led wiz.
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The labels I used are from a machine that prints on a tube that is heat shrinkable.
Ah, crap, u mean those aren't generally available?! Man, I'd love to have something that could do that! I imagine there's a more available alternative (that's prettier than my 'shred of masking tape with label sharp'ied on trick)?
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I imagine there's a more available alternative (that's prettier than my 'shred of masking tape with label sharp'ied on trick)?
Print the label on paper, trim to size and affix using scotch tape.
Leave enough of a header to get a solid grip (>1 wrap) on the wire then wrap tightly for 1 or 2 layers more and trim with scissors so the tail ends up opposite of the printing and neat.
When printing and trimming, ensure that the paper won't wrap around so far that it covers the text.
You can also do this flag-style, but that way is more likely to snag.
Pic shows 14 point Times New Roman text IIRC and 22 gauge wire.
Scott
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Printer (http://www.discounthomeautomation.com/Dymo-Industrial-RHINO-5200-Professional-Labeling-Tool-DY1755749?AdID=12950cm00cm0DY1755749&gclid=CJjQr8KArLcCFTBo7Aody2kAhw)
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Sorry for the bump, but I just had to share this picture.
Looks like Gracies little sister is enjoying A Little Rage too.
I guess it's time to start thinking about a cab for her?
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=307354;image)
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