The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: perjmolsen on March 03, 2019, 03:31:33 pm
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Hi :cheers:
I got this machine today - I am planning to restore it. ;D
I have so far changed the power supply, and i got most of the LED on the game PCB's to light up - I man just missing three lights, but i do not know if they light up before the game is running.
I am able to coin up the game, when i coin up i get some ping sounds in the speakers, so i assume that the game is working..
But i do not have any picture - no neck glow
The fuse at the chassis is fine.
So now i am trying to fix the chassis so that i can get the monitor working.
But i am unable to find any material / documentation on Intervideo - I have tried to find a number on the chassis , but without any luck.
The monitor is mounted at the top of the game.
Is the someone who have some tips to tackle this intervideo chassis?
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More chassis pictures
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The Machine and the PCB
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Hi
An update I have fund this manual to Intervdeo chassis http://www.andysarcade.de/data/coinop/videogames/raster%20monitors/intervideo/intervideo_vp_series.pdf (http://www.andysarcade.de/data/coinop/videogames/raster%20monitors/intervideo/intervideo_vp_series.pdf)
I have followed the troubleshooting chart's
- I have 2230 V into the chassis,and the fuse is good on the chassis
1. Tube is NOT lightned -> The CRT fillemnet is NOT lightned -> EHT is NOT pressent
2. At D12 there is 0V -> Disconnected yoke connector K6 -> still NO volt at D12 -> Check power supply
So now i will change the caps and check diodes and resistors at the PSU
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Pulled out the chassis, and tested the HOT as OK
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Some status...
Removed the HOT - soldered the one bulb wire to the middle pad (collector) and the other to chassis ground - mounted the chassis to the tube.
Turned on the power and the bulb lighted up. ;D - and i think i can her som faint crackling EHT sound
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=et0baw_0sjw (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=et0baw_0sjw)
Then i want to see if I had any , and how many volts at D12 - so connected my multimeter to D12 and the other wire to chassis - turned on the power NO volt and NO light in bulb?!?
Removed my multimeter, turned on the power - still no light in Bulb?!? -
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Update
I have now touched up some solder joints with new solder ... I hope that brings my bulb light back.... ???
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Whuu... my volts and light are back! :applaud:
I measure 170V at D12 - but according to the diagram it only has to be 149 - I assume it also need to be 149V without the HOT?
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Lifted one leg at R35, and connected bulb to R35
Volt measured at D12 still 170V
The crackheling/humm sound that I can hear, I think that comes from either the chasis or the yoke
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X38CMWWQhzA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X38CMWWQhzA)
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Can i test the heater volt at this point
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connect lamp at circled pin on deflection header
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Hi Grant
Thanks ;D
I have tested the volt, nothing connected to chassis.
I get 170V at the pin
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b+ adjust pot work at all?
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Hi
Yes it works - I have adjusted B+ down to 150V measured at D12
Now i also read 150V at the pin on the Deflection heater pin
I have also read that D13 and D15 has to have 24V - after i have adjusted VR1 i get
D13 24V
D15 24V
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Hi
I have now put in R35 and also the HOT
Mounted the chassis - and there is picture :applaud:
Now i can see what the games does
"When i power it on it first says that brake pedal is out of adjustment, but i can turn key to continue.
Then I get this message "ADSP timout error"
A small video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XgESNbozNaw (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XgESNbozNaw)
If i look at the diodes at the PCB the most of the lights lights up, but no light in the middle PCB does not light up at all
A small video https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F-KDC2oGU_I (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=F-KDC2oGU_I)
I am thinking to pull out the boards, and clean all the socket chips, and re flow all the header pins.
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Things i have done
1.I have put in a new 10A power supply for the 5V, and adjusted the volts so that i have 5.3V at the 5V test tabs on the board.
2. Replaced all the caps on all the three PCB's -> my log can be found here https://www.dropbox.com/s/0n1nutecz4...0log.xlsx?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/0n1nutecz4...0log.xlsx?dl=0)
3. Cleaned all the socketed chips on the boards.
A note regarding the new power supply - according to the documentation i can find, there must be two sense wires (red/stripe and brown/stripe)
All my wires are red or brown with no stripe, so i have connected them all to the new power supply.
Documentation http://www.jmargolin.com/schem/HardDrivinSchem.pdf (http://www.jmargolin.com/schem/HardDrivinSchem.pdf)
If I test the 12V at the testpoint at the multisync pcb I get 11.5V a little low - I do not know if the ADSP board uses 12V? - there is no 12V test points at the ADSP board. - so i do not think that it uses 12V
so if someone know where to look to get the ADSP board working, get the LED's to light up. - give me a ping ;D
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Hi ;D
Trying to fix the missing red color on my chassis,I have tried to swap red/blue wires - ad that did not bring the red back, so I assume that it is one of the red transistor that is broken
According to my scematic https://www.dropbox.com/s/kwo09b1czykv5i1/intervideo_vp_series.pdf?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/kwo09b1czykv5i1/intervideo_vp_series.pdf?dl=0)
is says that red transistors is
Q11 RED COLOR Main board BC547B NPN - TESTS OK OUT OF CIRCUIT
Q12 RED COLOR Main board BC547B NPN - TESTS OK OUT OF CIRCUIT
Q13 RED COLOR Main board ? - unable to locate
Q6 RED COLOR CRT board manual says BC237 or BC547B NPN - BUT IS IS AN BF871 - TESTS OK OUT OF CIRCUIT
I am only able to locate Q11, Q12 on the main chassis, and they are good
And Q6 is an BF871 and tests OK out of circuit
???
Thinking a cap replacement?
Or has any some other ideas
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q5 and q6 on neck are bf871
check r39 470r, vr2
if you swap red and blue wires on neck card does the blue still show correctly?
do you have red if you short the red gun to ground?
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Hi Grant
I think i have fund the issue now. :applaud:
I tried to back track it, going from the red wire input -> R2 (330ohm -OK) -> R3 (1.5k OK)-> R13 (39K 2W) DEAD
So i will try to see if i have an 39K 2W reistor that i can put in
If not then i will try your method . it has always worked :cheers:
If i swap the red/blue wires, the blue is still correctly but no red
I have not tried the ground to red gun... did not know what pin to try to ground
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Dammit... a have A lot of resistors but NO 39K 2W
I have this big ones in my parts... I guess none of them can replace it, so best to order a 39K 2W
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An update
Swapped the 39K resistor from the blue color (TESTED OK) to the red color
Still NO red - but a faint change in color when i turn the red pot all the way up at the neckboard :cry:
I did the ground to red-green-blue pins at the tube (also marked the points on the neckboard)
All my colors are prescient in the tube :applaud:
But if I touch the small adjustment board at the chassis the picture disappear completely, I also think that it is a bit warm,must around R4.
So i am thinking to re solder all the points at the small board, also the headeprins on the chassis where the small board connects.
Also the check r39 470r, vr2 as you mention grant :cheers:
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Hi
Hmm.. strange - still no RED....... :cry:
Status
- Re soldering all the parts of the little remote board removed the blackout issue of the screen when i touched it :applaud:
- Checked R39 on the neckboard, it where fine :applaud:
- Found also Q13 (BF871) on the main pcb, that where also fine :applaud:
- Checked VR2 ... I think it is fine, if i massure between the two leg i get 0.407 ohm, but that does not change when I turn it. If i measure between outer leg and middle leg I can adjust the value
The silk screen on VR2 says "470 415M" can I try to put in this 472 pot?
Also noticed if I turn "CONTR" on the little remote board on the chassis - nothing seems to happen... but it can maybe be because i am missing red, and also the blue is not connected i have borrowed the 39R resistor.
Thinking a cap kit? I do not know what caps to change just to change the "color caps"..
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Hmm.....
Just noticed.. Where the h.. is RED drive adjustment pot???
I can find Green and Blue drive adjustment ... NO red?
Does this board need to have all the colors in order to get RED?!?
On the neck board there is Cut-off for all the colors....
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Looked at the diagram, and drawing some lines, and marked the things I all ready have tested with a green dot.
Thinking need to start in one end, and hopefully find the component that is dead, so i can get the red color
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:badmood:
Checked all the components marked with a green dot, all tests fine... still no red...
Not even a slight change when I adjust VR2 on the neckboard... ??? ???
The red gun is fine in the tube, when i connect to ground is turns red.
Need help ;D
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Tested some more components - and updated the diagram
Q5
R12
R34
R45
C4
Not any of therm where defect... :badmood:
I will go to bed now... hopefully in my dreams I can get an idea to where my red color is
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Progress in my hunt for the missing RED
I now have swapped the RED and GREEN wires on the neck board
now i have RED but NO GREEN
So (correct me if I am wrong please)
- RED circuit on neck board does not have any errors
- The problem must be at the red circuit on the chassis
So what is the best way to narrow it down?
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So now... :dizzy:
Now i know that i got all the tree colors from my game pcb :applaud:
Please note that the RED-GREEN wires on neck-board is swapped during this test. So from the Chassis and to the neck board it is the GREEN connection that are generating the RED image
I have moved the games green wire to -> monitor red = still red
I have moved the games red wire to -> monitor red = still red
I have moved the games green wire to -> monitor red = stil red
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So my red issue must be somewhere in the red selection of the chassis.........................
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Hold your horses... ::)
I just noticed that i have overlooked C47 100nf 160V polyester cap.... on the chassis!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Keep you updated... damm if that is the cause.....
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I like threads like this. I can't really contribute, but I can be a cheerleader.
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He he
Then get to work.. I need som cheering up ;D ;D
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An update
It where NOT C47 - It tested fine!
.... VR5 perhaps...
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No not VR5..........
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FOR ---fudgesicle--- SAKE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! :badmood:
I am out of words.....just noticed....
Look at picture.. "someone" has tested Q13 yesterday.... and afterwards forgot to solder it in....!
Well.....................
Lets try to give it some solder...
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YES!!!!!!! HELL YES! ;D
RED IS BACK, also Green - Blue i have borrowed the 39K resistor, therefor it is not present...
I give you all a beer , so please go to your fridge now and get a beer ;D- and Grant BIG BIG thanks!! :cheers:
Somehow in between test of Q13 I have fixed the red.. but where unable to verify because, the stupid me forgot to solder Q13 in place!
So now I have to swap red/green wires back at neck board
and wait for the 39K 2W resistor..to get full colors
PHEW.. that where nearly as hard as my NANARO MS9 nightmare...
Somehow I always makes it harder... ;D
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Nice. I am glad I could solve your problem for you.
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Yes :cheers:
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An update more ;D
I do not have the ADSP error anymore, now i can see what the test results are.
ALL OK :applaud: :applaud: .... so now I am waiting for that damm 39K 2W resistor, so i can dial-in the monitor at fix the controls, and fix the cabinet
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put 2 x 18k in series for the moment until the correct one arrives
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put 2 x 18k in series for the moment until the correct one arrives
Is that 18k resistor at least 1W?
Can't tell from his earlier photo. :dunno
Two 18k, 1W resistors in series = same capacity for power dissipation (power converted to heat) as one 36k, 2W resistor.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159719.0;attach=376065;image)
Scott
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Hi
Thanks for the help :cheers:
Yes the last one on the photo is a 18K
But i only have one 18K resistor in my old parts box, and no 18K in my new parts boxes :cry:
I have also looked on old china chassis, I might have an old CRT TV in my garage that i can take apart tomorrow, to see if there is one more 18K 1W or better a 36K 2W resistor
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Hi
I did not have any matching resistors in my parts bokses, or the old CRT TV - so i have to wait until middle of the week to get the last fiexed on the monitor.
Meanwhile i want to change the caps on the other boards too.
Starting with the motor amp board -> diagram can be found here: https://www.dropbox.com/s/a8ekyt9iepimzmx/Motor%20Amp%20PCB%20%28802%20KB%20PDF%29.pdf?dl=0
It seems a bit funny, there is to capacitors in series. 2x 100uf 35V
I want to replace them with some new, I guess that the two new, that I install need to be connected they way as in the picture, and also the polarity is correct, as i show in the picture?
Update added som ned photos of the caps - it seems that they not are original, they are solder to an resistor, and a diode
Also the other cap C30 at the right side, do I have marked the polarity correct?
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Update
Put in new caps on the board - including the two weird ones, also noticed that they had the two positive leads solder together and the negative leads to the diode and the resistor, so I put in the new one the same way ;D
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An update
Still waiting for the new motor optro pcb.
The screen is working, colors are great and the cabinet is being cleaned and painted
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eu0ba6vn2_8