The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: meltman on October 17, 2018, 11:29:00 am
-
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376163;image)
Starting up a new project. It's been at least 10 years since the last cabinet I made.
Project Goals
- Single sheet of plywood
- Wall mounted
- Unique design
The Hardware
- Mounting
- Fixed TV wall mount (x2) 100lb capacity Amazon Link (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QOQU95K/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
- Controls
- Ultimarc Ultrastik 360 Sticks
- Ultimarc ServoStik upgrades
- Happ buttons
- TurboTwist 2 Spinner
- Happ 3" Trackball
- Aimtrak Lightguns with Recoil
- Ultimarc iPac
- Audio
- Phillips LCD TV Full-Range Speaker Parts Express Link (https://www.parts-express.com/philips-242226440048-lcd-tv-full-range-speaker-module-1-1-4-x-6-3-8-x-5-1-8--289-2378)
- Peerless by Tymphany 5-1/4" Paper Cone Woofer Parts Express Link (https://www.parts-express.com/peerless-by-tymphany-sds-135f25cp02-04-5-1-4-paper-cone-woofer--264-1658)
- WINGONEER TPA3118 2.1 Digital Power Amplifier Board Amazon Link (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01M8I9RO6/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
- Monitors
- Primary Display: LG 27MP48HQ-P 27" IPS Full HD 1920x1080 Monitor
- Marquee Display: STi AMX2220ML 20" Wide LCD Panel
- PC
- Dell Optiplex 7040 Micro, i7, 8GB, 960GB storage
- Software
- OS: Windows 10 :(
- Front End: Launchbox BigBox
Status
Cabinet - Complete
Light Guns - Pending
The cabinet uses two HDTV mounts to hang the cabinet on the wall over the top of a plugin.
Thanks for having a look and for any feedback.
-
The base of an arcade cabinet doesn't extend past the control panel. You are saving zero floor space unless you store stuff under the cab when it is not in use. You also sacrifice the ability to move it easily.
-
This design will allow barstools to be tucked right up against, saving floor space.
Having it be easy to move isn't an objective. There's a spot on the wall where it's going to go and it will stay there.
I'd make the argument that any "skinny" depth cabinet needs to be anchored to the wall with kids around so unless I build a full depth one it wont be easy to move.
-
Unless I am missing something. Disclaimer: drawings are not to scale.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181017/feb3b2502ae11be48d3289e6e7d170c3.jpg)
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
-
Interesting design. Why the overhang on the sides of the CP?
-
It makes sense if you are going to store your bar stools under there. Otherwise you could anchor a skinny cab to the wall for more stability.
You have a clear idea of what you want to do. Good luck with your build.
-
Going to get started hopefully this weekend on making some templates out of hardboard to begin routing!
Interesting design. ;D
One possible issue is the distance between the trackball and monitor bezel.
You might want to make a cardboard mockup to see if there is enough clearance to avoid jamming your fingers. :cheers:
Scott
-
I can tell you dont live in Chicago - hah. It's worth it to design for bar stool storage.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372050;image)
Interesting design. Why the overhang on the sides of the CP?
Beer holding capabilities
One possible issue is the distance between the trackball and monitor bezel.
Absolutely - good call mocking it up. Though the way I play goldentee is using two thumbs instead of whacking it like a maniac.
I'm going to have a piece of tempered glass over the monitor portion, then under the monitor will be an equal thickness speaker grill.
-
I would suggest keeping beverages off of the control surface. Beer has an amazing ability to spill spectacularly. A small end table works well. Your beverages are out of the way, but still close by.
-
First round of tools arrived. This project gave me a great excuse to get these. Been wanting a router and saw for awhile now.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372133;image)
-
This is how it starts. I hope you weren't too attached to your money. ;D
-
Some work today started with supplies gathering.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372175;image)
Also received my Tripath amplifier and two very skinny speakers from Parts Express. These will go below the monitor.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372177;image)
Here's my ghetto work area under my kitchen.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372179;image)
And finally, some results. These are my router templates for the sides, and top/bottom of the control panel.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372181;image)
-
Normally I’m not a fan of wall-mounted cabs, but you’ve planned it out the right way. This one will work out. Kudos to you.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20181020/a829b176d219dd89db258ac5a7fcbdc6.gif)
-
I appreciate that. I'm not normally a fan either, but I wanted to give this design a go. Usually they look quite weird like a bartop glued to the wall.
On PL1's recommendation, I've extended the play surface 2 inches so there will ample space for trackball play.
Thanks for suggesting that PL1!
-
I like it. I tried a wall mount a while ago but could never trust my daughter not to practice pull ups on it.
Looks like you've gone for a flat marquee against the wall. You could try some el tape behind some perspex and have some graphics on there if u wanted.
-
I appreciate that. I'm not normally a fan either, but I wanted to give this design a go. Usually they look quite weird like a bartop glued to the wall.
On PL1's recommendation, I've extended the play surface 2 inches so there will ample space for trackball play.
Thanks for suggesting that PL1!
Exactly. A flat bartop causing you to stand a foot from the wall is a bad idea. This is more of a functional game countertop, which I can dig.
-
Looks like you've gone for a flat marquee against the wall. You could try some el tape behind some perspex and have some graphics on there if u wanted.
You know too much.
Get out of my head!
;D
-
Not much progress. Spent a bunch of time refining the templates. I made sure they were smooth and straight and that the slots where the boards will "slot" together were dimensionally accurate.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372246;image)
Now that they are good I'll set up the router and make some real pieces soon.
-
Progress!
Traced the templates to rough cut with the jigsaw before routing.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372347;image)
Test fitting!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372343;image)
Much much sawdust after routing.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372341;image)
All clean.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372345;image)
Tomorrow I'm going to try and knock out the other panels, then cut the openings for the access doors under the control panel and on the bottom angled panel.
I have the monitor in my possession as well so I'll be tracing it out and getting the panel created for it as well.
-
You’re a brave soul. The words indoor, mdf, and routing should rarely be used together in the same sentence.
-
On an unrelated subject, why do you have at least 3 good sized water heaters in your basement?
-
Different units in his building.
-
What's the name about?
-
Cool design.
-
What's the name about?
Object traveling away from you in space will shift spectrum toward red.
More updates!
Careful sanding. Man this is precise!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372386;image)
Lots of holes.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372388;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372384;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372382;image)
Still many more holes to drill.
-
More work complete. First I finished doweling the upper and lower panel, then test fitting.
Fits really well, almost like I 3D modeled it ;D
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372528;image)
Next up was to close the gap on the control panel. I decided to kerf around the edges.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372536;image)
Oh this will work okay!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372526;image)
Aaaand no. I managed to f' that up nicely.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372540;image)
New thought, let's groove the control panel upper and lower and do a hardboard filler.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372532;image)
Entirely too much time later this is where I'm at.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372530;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372538;image)
I need to add some support structure inside the control panel, but that is simple to accomplish. This essentially completes the cabinet structure.
Tomorrow I'll tackle control layout, monitor cutout, and access panels. More routing incoming!
-
I'm putzing around with my router on other, non-arcade-related projects: I really like your hardboard solution! Looks great!
-
Thanks! I think it turned out pretty well.
I did have to use the router to thin down the 5/32" hardboard around the curves. That was too tight of bend for the full thickness.
-
Nice technique. Have done my fill of bending wood so know how much a pain in the ass it can be.
Were you planning on putting t-molding on the control panel top and bottom? If so you might want to be careful to make sure the grooves don't cut too far in and weaken the edges. Speaking from experience...!
-
Nice technique. Have done my fill of bending wood so know how much a pain in the ass it can be.
Were you planning on putting t-molding on the control panel top and bottom? If so you might want to be careful to make sure the grooves don't cut too far in and weaken the edges. Speaking from experience...!
I am putting t-molding on the edges. I think I'm good, the grooves are 1/16th deep so just enough to hold the board in the slot. Definitely appreciate the warning!
Today we cut the bezel! Ignore my drawing all over it. ::) The speakers are set lower which will make sense once I get glass over the screen.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372582;image)
My adorable little speakers fit perfectly in this 1 1/8" wide slot.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372580;image)
The monitor fits *exactly*. It's hard to see but the edge is rabbeted so the monitor is inset into the panel.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372576;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372574;image)
I also cut the access panel for under the controls. It will have a hardboard door when it's all said and done.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372578;image)
Somehow I managed to skip a picture of the lower main access door where the PC will hide. I'll get a pic later. It will also have a hardboard door.
-
Looks good! Nice sleek design :applaud:
I'm curious, how did you get all your dowels to line up precisely?
I'm going to use dowels on my bartop project too. I've 3D printed some little dowel template jigs to use, but curious to hear how you did it.
:cheers:
-
Thanks!
For the dowels, I carefully measured the spacing, then did the board edge first. I used this jig:
https://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-1319-JointMate-Handheld-Dowel/dp/B01M8L1WVN/ref=sr_1_6?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1541422928&sr=1-6&keywords=dowel+jig (https://www.amazon.com/Milescraft-1319-JointMate-Handheld-Dowel/dp/B01M8L1WVN/ref=sr_1_6?s=power-hand-tools&ie=UTF8&qid=1541422928&sr=1-6&keywords=dowel+jig)
Once those holes were drilled, I stood the board up against the other board (where the holes would align in the future), then carefully leaned it over, then put a dowel in, and marked each position.
Then I used a straight edge to center the board in it's proper position and use the same jig (with the edge guard removed) to drill each hole.
You kind of gotta look down the bore of the jig and eye-ball center as best you can. I think I had about 3 dowel holes I had to oblong a bit to make it go together. Not a big deal with all the dowels I used though right? Haha.
-
Haha yeah. Nice one. Too many dowel holes shouldn't be a problem :) Nice little jig that. :cheers:
-
Got a couple of outstanding items from Andy @ ultimarc. Thanks Andy!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372877;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372879;image)
I didn't have much time over the weekend to do any work on the cabinet. I did have time to start working on artwork, specifically the control panel. Slow process that.
-
I'd love a bit of help on this if anyone can chime in. Here's an image of the control panel layout I'm considering. This will be a plexiglass inlay in the main panel.
I'm mainly looking to see if spacing is appropriate. I saw a thread before that discussed spacing but for the life of me cannot find it.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=372948;image)
Input please - does the P1/trackball/P2 spacing look appropriate?
-
Input please - does the P1/trackball/P2 spacing look appropriate?
Your stick-to-buttons distance looks tight to me, just eyeballing it - does the joystick housing beneath the panel clear the button nuts?
-
It should. Its an Astro city layout. I’ll print and confirm. The stick to button spacing is based off of this image http://tengokugame.free.fr/panel_scan_astro.jpg (http://tengokugame.free.fr/panel_scan_astro.jpg)
Does the centering look correct? Like from an edge of panel to stick for P1 and edge of panel to buttons for p2?
-
Oh, cool. If it's an existing pattern, it'll surely work as long as you're using a similarly sized stick.
There are several geometry-correct answers to problems like this but what matters is what looks right.
I think it looks okay. I might try nudging the whole P2 setup a little left, but not much. 1/4 inch maybe, if those are 1 1/8 button holes? But then I'd just be seeing if I thought that looked better or worse - it's fairly subjective.
-
Really appreciate your insight.
After printing and seeing in the real, I have a few adjustments to make.
:applaud:
-
https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html#STANDARD_LAYOUTS (https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html#STANDARD_LAYOUTS)
EDIT: Here's the Astro City layout: https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html#SEGA_PLAYER_1 (https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html#SEGA_PLAYER_1)
(https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout/sega1_s.png) (https://www.slagcoin.com/joystick/layout.html#SEGA_PLAYER_1)
-
Started today by cutting some holes for sticks and trackball.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=373272;image)
Next up was to do some routing, taking into account the depth of the plexiglass inlay.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=373270;image)
Exactly 1/8" above the stick plate. Perfect.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=373274;image)
Worked through the cut for the inlay. Things went... okay. I have some fixing to do after the router bit into the edges a couple times. Nothing a little bondo wont fix.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=373268;image)
-
nice work and good progress!
-
Here's some progress on the artwork. I found an artist that gave me permission to use his as a basis for this cabinet.
Feedback is appreciated.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=373342;image)
-
I really like the art!
-
Nice theme! Anything retro sci-fi gets my vote :applaud:
Not sure about the name tho. How about: STELLAR, RETROPOLIS, GET READY or SPECTRA ?
-
Stellar isn't bad. I kind of like that.
Redshift limited my artwork (red duh!)
I'm totally open to name ideas and am not bolted down to anything.
-
More progress.
First, a detour on the control panel. Adding servos to the U360s.
The spacers are threaded. There is a tiny gap so the gate can rotate.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=373416;image)
Cutouts for the servos in the control panel
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=373410;image)
Next I started to cut the plexiglass inlay but the bit decided to hate me.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=373414;image)
So instead I cut the slots for the t-molding.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=373412;image)
And made access doors. They fit tight so I need to sand them down a bit.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=373408;image)
Finally, I cleaned up some of the oopsies on the control panel with some Bondo.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=373406;image)
I still need to make the marquee, rear mounting fixtures, monitor retention blocks, and some supports inside the control panel. So many little things left!
-
Finally had some more time to work on the cabinet.
The inside of the control deck needed internal support to for both structure and to hold the curved hardboard.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=373860;image)
Dowels, dowels, and more dowels
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=373856;image)
Test fitting, validating that it still goes together ;D
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=373850;image)
This is looking at the bottom side. There is structure in the middle and rear to support the MDF.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=373858;image)
Here's the top side.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=373854;image)
Looking from the back.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=373852;image)
I'm actually at the point where I could glue-up the control deck at this point. I think I may wait until the rest is ready for glue up then have a gluestraviganza!
I'm really happy with the weight of the control panel and the rigidity. It's tough and fairly light.
-
Nice work - especially if this is your first time woodworking - seeing that you got a bunch of tools a while back.
Following ;)
-
Really appreciate the kind words!
I've built stuff in the past so I'm familiar with how to leverage the tools. This is by far the most intricate routing I've done though.
One thing I'm struggling with a bit is hinges for my panel doors. If anyone has ideas of something that will fit the bill I'm all ears. I wanted something hidden that mounts face frame and not euro style since the doors are thin.
-
I used this type of hinge on A Little Rage.
Dont know how they would work with a very thin door, I used 1/2" MDF.
But maybe you could glue some braces to the door, the width of the hinge foot, running across inside width of door to re-enforce it?
I also used nuts and bolts in the door part of the hinge, and threaded inserts and bolts on the cabinet wall.
(You have a nice project, very professional looking router cuts).
-
Use magnets. Then you can pull the panels off completely for servicing.
-
I used this type of hinge on A Little Rage.
Dont know how they would work with a very thin door, I used 1/2" MDF.
But maybe you could glue some braces to the door, the width of the hinge foot, running across inside width of door to re-enforce it?
I also used nuts and bolts in the door part of the hinge, and threaded inserts and bolts on the cabinet wall.
(You have a nice project, very professional looking router cuts).
Thanks for the ideas, and positive comments. I'm trying with the router. It's quite the machine.
Use magnets. Then you can pull the panels off completely for servicing.
I actually really like this idea. Something I never considered. Magnets with really subtle pull straps exposed would honestly be easy, cheap, and great. Thanks Mike.
-
Have used magnets from dead/ancient hard drives before for other projects, pretty strong, maybe an option ?
-
There are rare earth magnets of all sizes available on Amazon.
-
Today I made some really huge progress.
First, I worked on the plexiglass inlay. This made me nervous. The original template was damaged and I had to remake one. Fortunately it turned out well.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=373912;image)
Honestly, for this being my first insert ever I'm pretty pleased. It may be *too* good once paint is in there.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=373910;image)
I moved on to doing some final pieces and fitting. Did I mention dowels? Lol.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=373906;image)
And here it is dry fitted. It fits together well. I'm very pleased.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=373898;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=373900;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=373904;image)
I decided to start gluing it up. This is honestly my least favorite part of the whole build so far.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=373908;image)
I'll move on to gluing up the rest of the cabinet soon. The marquee is it's own animal that I'll work on soon. Originally it was going to be dowelled in too but I'm actually going to mix it up with some aluminum L stock to hold it all together.
Oh almost forgot - I made some holes for the Aimtrak sensor.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=373902;image)
-
Gluing is indeed one of the parts of my project I've enjoyed the least. Impressive what you've done here so far, especially with fitting the plexi.
I'm curious, and may have missed it upthread-what's the height of the CP going to be here?
-
I get to pick cp height, it's wall mounted! I can’t remember what the usual height is.
Choose my own adventure :)
-
That art does look great. I have been tinkering with the art from the same poster (NASA/Mars?). Looks killer how you did it. Looking forward to this one even more now :)
-
I'm enjoying the craftsmanship of this build! :cheers:
-
Nice to see some good progress... looking forward to seeing it all come together :cheers:
-
This is coming out great. Really looking forward to seeing it finished - original designs are hard to come by these days.
-
That art does look great. I have been tinkering with the art from the same poster (NASA/Mars?). Looks killer how you did it. Looking forward to this one even more now :)
You got it! It's based heavily off of those posters. I have not done a good job citing my art source.
The artist I asked for permission to use as a basis is Qohen Leth from forums.frontier.co.uk.
Here's a link to the the artwork I deconstructed and refined to fit my cabinet.
https://forums.frontier.co.uk/showthread.php/406794-Grand-Tour-wallpaper-printable-poster (https://forums.frontier.co.uk/showthread.php/406794-Grand-Tour-wallpaper-printable-poster)
Big shout out to Qohen Leth for giving me permission to base my cabinet off their amazing artwork!
-
This is great..
Whats inside hardware wise??
I`d beef up the audio a bit get some nice speakers in there...
-
Thanks!
It's going to have a Dell Optiplex something or other, with an i7, micro PC.
I will be doing Linux based this time. My previous arcade was windows with GameEX. I've been playing with EmulationStation and been pleased with the responsiveness and ability to traverse thousands of games. I'm also extremely versed in both operating systems and pretty happy with Linux's "appliance" type feel. I'll be doing many games local, but with autofs mounting the big stuff off the NAS in my house.
The speakers I'm cautiously optimistic about - I played them with the amp just free air (they are self boxed) and was really surprised and impressed with them. They sounded better than the ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- 2.1 setup in my old arcade - and I had no issues with that setup either.
I think I'll be okay on the audio department. I've left myself plenty of room if I need to swap out in the future though - well for 3" drivers and under I guess.
Appreciate the thoughts. Going to hit the glue up tomorrow, then start thinking about paint.
My plan after some reading,
50/50 PVA/Water mix
Sand
High build primer
Sand
Sand
Krylon Semi-Flat black
Done, Apply decals, inlays, and marquee
My old cabinet used a water based primer, then rolled on rustoleum. I was really happy with the durability, though the finish was close but not as good as spray.
I may be missing some good threads. Still reading. Any suggestions are welcome! Semi-Flat black is going to be the whole cabinet.
-
Gluing up the main cabinet! Woooo! Wont see this view again.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=374124;image)
Totally know what I'm doing.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=374130;image)
While that dries, mix up some 50/50 water/wood glue
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=374142;image)
And paint the control deck
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=374144;image)
Assemble! Check clearances
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=374126;image)
Clamps!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=374140;image)
More PVA glue painting
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=374132;image)
The back, painted in PVA glue/water mix
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=374134;image)
Test fitting some PC placement
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=374136;image)
Letting it dry.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=374128;image)
Next up, some bondo gap filling, 220 grit sanding, and some high build primer.
-
A lot of hard work mate, takes ages, but it'll be worth it in the end :) :applaud:
-
This is looking nice! I've heard of "washing" mdf with a glue/water mix before, but I've always wondered if it causes swelling? How stable have your results been given your application?
-
The MDF had very minimal swelling on the portions I routed (like the inlay) but that's what I expected. It's basically a poor man's sanding sealer intended to keep the MDF from drinking tons of paint. The glue/water mix really sealed the unit together filling the whole thing in a thin layer of glue basically. I'm happy with the sand-ability of it.
Speaking of which - paint prep today! Ugh
Some bondo to cover my screws holding the hard board.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=374216;image)
Here's a trick I picked up over the years. I'm filling a gap here with bondo. Use some painters tape to limit where the bondo can go and you'll save yourself ages sanding. Wait until about 30 minutes after the bondo has started to set, then peel it up before it really gets solid.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=374214;image)
Next is sanding with 220 grit which leaves a ready-for-paint finish.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=374218;image)
Went pretty quick - I had some help today.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=374212;image)
Next weekend comes the high build primer and with some luck more sanding (yay?).
-
That's the price for putting her shoes on the wrong feet!
Looking good!
-
That's the price for putting her shoes on the wrong feet!
She does it herself, Every... Single... Time...
-
Today I made a kill room.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=374459;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=374461;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=374463;image)
Don't worry, it's vented by a fan out the window. I also wore a respirator.
The pictures are of the first coat of primer. I did two more after that for full coverage.
Next:
Sand
Sand
Black
Sand
Black
The marquee is going to be special. I'm gathering materials for it now.
-
Marquee time! My parts came in. There is a vertical line in this LCD it disappears if you push the FFC, so I'll throw some tape to keep it perfect.
It's 19x5.5, 1/2 1080p.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=374644;image)
Would anyone be interested in these? I can get them in quantity. Would probably be around $200 each kit.
-
I spent a lot of time looking for an LCD marquee - but the pricing was WAY more than that..
Mine would be ~31 x 5.25 (or so) - Does the company make different sizes? and/or can you send me a link?
19" would be too narrow in my case - but a very good find either way!
-
Same here. I REALLY want to go the digital marquee route but I butt pucker at the thought of spending $550 on a Vitrolight from China.
Sent from my SM-J320R4 using Tapatalk
-
That's a good price. I think it'll fit your cabinet design well, too - good choice. I like your cab design and I think this will be cool in it.
For people looking - this panel is something around a 22" (diagonal) 16:9 monitor, cut in half.
Aspect ratio of 16:4.5, or 32:9 if you wanna use that notation, or 3.55:1 - that's right in the sweet spot for where most arcade marquee art will fit nicely. (I'm running a 2.84:1 digital marquee in Mimic and it's a little too tall.)
A lot of original arcade cabinets are 24" wide between verticals, so 19" will come up scant for them. Most people here seem to end up going wider - or way wider - than original, which will exacerbate that problem for them. You'd want to design the cabinet around this panel from scratch, as you have. Perhaps put one of these over a 21" 4:3 LCD, which would be around 17" wide, in a small 19" between verticals bartop or cabaret...
I don't need one myself, I'm set, but at that price that opens up some interesting designs I hope other people pursue. :cheers:
-
Laythe is right, these are 21.5 inch panels that were cut in half. It is an LED panel.
I can only get this exact size. They are not new panels but reclaimed from a recycler. I had to source the controller which was difficult. These exact panels are around $450 new.
My cabinet is 30 wide in the middle, so I will have spacers on each side to take up around 5 inches each side. The whole marquee will be covered in a light grey smoked glass so it will look black when off. The monitor will be covered with the same glass for the same effect.
-
Keep up the good work, it looks awesome!
I might borrow the design, would you mind?
I’m sure you all know but the easiest dynamic marquee option today is a 25inch 21:9 monitor.
Samsung’s IPS one is $159 now (!)
A bit too wide for this project if 21,5’ 16:9 fits well, but 24’ wide (609mm) is not bad.
They are a bit tall so perhaps hide a part of it..
-
You've inspired me to take the plunge and buy a router once the weather gets un-frigid here.
Really nice work. This is fun to watch. Thanks for posting so many photos!
Mike
-
Would anyone be interested in these? I can get them in quantity. Would probably be around $200 each kit.
For that kind of cost I’d def be interested for my current project. I have about a 30” wide marquee but like you said could have spacers and darken some plexi in front of it. I’ve just begun my contact with Vitrolight on Alibaba, but it is looking to be cost prohibitive. Shoot me a DM if you can and we can discuss details.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
-
Today I worked on color sanding, then laying down another coat of paint.
Who likes wet sanding? *crickets*
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=374997;image)
Next was heating up the paint. This increases pressure and helps the mixing process. It gives you a smoother coat.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=374989;image)
I painted another coat. Glamor shots:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=374985;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=374987;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=374991;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=374993;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=374995;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=374999;image)
I'm pretty happy with the finish right now, but I may color sand one more time then lay down one more coat. Not sure quite yet.
Leaning toward sand + coat one more time just for a *little better finish.
-
I painted the inside of the cabinet and laid down a strip of the white vinyl accent. I was quite unhappy with the durability of the spraypainted finish.
At this point I decided that I would just wrap the whole damn cabinet in vinyl.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=375633;image)
Completed the accents where I could - cant do the top half until the provisions for the cover glass are in place.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=375617;image)
I dragged the cabinet inside. Here's the wall just waiting for mounting.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=375615;image)
This is the back side with the HDTV mounts in place.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=375619;image)
Here is mid wrap on the top surface. I used 3m 1080 satin black
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=375629;image)
Now THIS is the finish I wanted.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=375631;image)
Here are the cabinet doors wrapped in vinyl as well
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=375611;image)
And mounted on their hinges. This really came out fantastic.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=375623;image)
I made some mounting tabs for the speakers
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=375627;image)
Looking down inside the cabinet you can see a speaker and the amp sitting there.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=375625;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=375621;image)
Getting the height right on the wall.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=375637;image)
I'm quite pleased with the progress. Next up is to get the glass figured out and the speaker grill completed. The marquee I'm treating as sort of a separate project for now.
-
Looking good. I like your color scheme - black with white center accents is classy, and it won't clash with any marquee colors.
The color divisions call attention to the unusual lines of the cabinet in a good way. What color T-mold is it getting?
-
T molding is just black. Nothing special in that department.
Thanks for your feedback.
-
Looking good, love the curves on this thing.
-
That vinyl wrap looks great for a smooth pro looking satin finish. I've never used it, but I'm assuming it's applied using a heat gun? I plan to use vinyl wrap on part of my Pacman Legion project. There is a huge variety of textures and colours available. It definitely has a place in this hobby. BTW, I do enjoy wet sanding paintwork. Especially 2000 grit work.. Yeah baby! Very relaxing and therapeutic. But that is preparatory to high gloss work, not smooth satin or low gloss finishes.
-
Yep, the vinyl goes on dry and has a crosshatch to allow air escape before you push down on the pressure activated adhesive. A heat gun is used to pull around radiuses as well as to "set" the adhesive at the end of the wrapping.
I highly recommend the 3m 1080 automotive vinyl that I used for this. You'll need a base coat of real paint for it to adhere to though, not a raw MDF panel. It gave me really good results and is quite durable. You can even "heat" out scratches with a heat gun to some extent.
-
Finalized control panel art. Trackball will be red translucent illuminated.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376161;image)
-
Any reason why player 1's buttons are angled and player 2's are not?
-
It swings the players apart a little for the sake of elbow room, would be my guess. (That doesn't preclude also angling P2 the other way, though.)
-
Any reason why player 1's buttons are angled and player 2's are not?
I would fix this if it isn't too late. Either mirror P2 controls or straighten P1 controls. It's looks off this way, IMO... *
* I value aesthetics as much as functionality so maybe don't listen to me if there is a legit reason for the way it is now.
-
It's literally a Sega Astro city layout. It's pitched like that and I will not be changing it.
-
It's literally a Sega Astro city layout. It's pitched like that and I will not be changing it.
I don’t think people are talking about the curve of the buttons, rather the button groups angle relative to the joystick:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190309/c8ea90e1f8db336a775538c6b8de77cd.jpg)
-
This is not an error. This is a Sega Astro City layout. It is angled like that for P1. P2 is straight.
This is intentional. Yes, really.
Yes, really really really.
Stand with your body in P1 position, your right hand naturally pitches to that angle. Now stand in P2 position and see how it straightens out.
(https://wiki.arcadeotaku.com/images/f/fd/Astro.Panel.Scan.png)
-
And now for something completely different...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376171)
The trackball will cut the ring around Planet Trackball off. Looks a bit odd to me.
-
Good input. I’m okay with the ring as it is though.
-
What admin buttons are you putting on your control panel?
-
There will be two admin buttons, "Abort" (exit) and "Delay" (pause) to keep with my space theme.
That's it.
They will go in the bigger pill shape up and to the right of the P1 position.
The circle up and to the left of P2 is for a spinner.
I've used button combinations in the past to enter Mame's control panel. I'll almost certainly do the same on this machine.
The buttons themselves are triangle red illuminated arcade buttons. The spinner will be a groovy spinner in red as well.
-
Oh that's going to look awesome with the red spinner. Thanks for the quick reply.
-
Artwork arrived
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376365;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376364;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376363;image)
There IS an error in the print - one of the ships trails got lost in translation. A reprint is on the way to address it. I didn't even notice until I had already installed it.
Bonus, pic of the PC and power strip mounted. They are placed there to leave room for the subwoofer box I have yet to make.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376366;image)
-
Wow! I love the side art a lot! Very cool for the style of cabinet. CP art is nice also.
J_K_M_A_N
-
Thanks!
Hoping for some big progress this weekend.
-
Looks great! Very colorful and such an original design. It's not too late for clip art and changing the name to "MAMEcade" though... ;D
-
Looks great! Very colorful and such an original design. It's not too late for clip art and changing the name to "MAMEcade" though... ;D
That will be the first thing I do with the LCD marquee. :laugh2:
-
Got a new toy in the mail.
(http://newforum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376421;image)
Worked on holes. Lots of holes.
Step 1, drill half on the back side.
(http://newforum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376416;image)
Step 2, drill the front side
(http://newforum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376418;image)
Step 3, make a PERFECT hole for the trackball.
(http://newforum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376417;image)
Step 4, screw up your plexiglass :angry: :angry: :angry:
(http://newforum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376420;image)
Ugh, I'll remake the plexi panel. Very frustrating that the drill hooked and cracked all my work.
Oh well. Here's what it looks like. The triangle buttons still need to be inset all the way but since this plexiglass is trash...
(http://newforum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376422;image)
(http://newforum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376419;image)
I'll go get another piece of plexiglass, maybe today, not sure yet if time will allow.
-
(http://newforum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376419;image)
That red spinner is beautiful. And those arrow buttons are fun. Looking good.
-
Looks great! I really like the red spinner also. Bummer on the plexi.
Are you using plexi or lexan? I have been using the lexan from Home Depot and it seems pretty tough. I have heard it is tougher than regular plexi but I am not sure. It is more expensive. :(
Good luck on the redo. Love the progress.
J_K_M_A_N
-
Are you drilling through the plexi??? If you can I recommend you use a router and pattern bit - it will cut through like butter. Looking good!
-
It is acrylic, not lexan. Acrylic is more scratch resistant but brittle. Lexan would have survived.
$30 mistake. I ordered another sheet with enough material for 2 attempts.
I drilled the holes, running the drill backwards. Should have routed them. Oh well, I have a perfect template now for the router.
I still gotta get the glass painted and attached and get a speaker grill crafted but we're getting close now - least the on the hardware side. Well, not counting the LCD marquee project I suppose.
-
What are the dimensions of that panel? I can possibly laser cut the acrylic for you.
-
That's a hell of an offer Mike. The panel is 30"x10".
Let me have a go with the router. If I manage to keep failing I may take you up on laser cutting.
-
Sure. Drilling acrylic can be really frustrating.
-
As others have said it's better to drill a smaller hole and route your plastic but it's not the worst mistake in the world (make sure your router base is clean though- I've ruined a few pieces by having crap collect on the router base)
Really like the way the cp is integrated into the overall panel. That looks like it was machine cut. V nice.
-
Glass stuff.
The glass sits on a 1/16" thick felt tape which supports it throughout.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376460;image)
These little things hold the bottom edge. There are aluminum "tracks" that hold the glass in along the sides. You can *barely* see one in the pic below
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376457;image)
Painted the back side.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376459;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376458;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376456;image)
Not too shabby.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376455;image)
Now I can make a speaker grill.
-
Looks great! You are almost finished...
-
Are you going to use light guns on this cabinet? Is that what the small gap in black paint is for the top?
-
Yup that’s the sensor location.
-
Wiring. Lots.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376544;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376540;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376542;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376538;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376539;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376548;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376546;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376547;image)
I wish I could say I'm done. I'm not. There is more wiring to go.
Servos
Cable routing in the cabinet at large
Rework how the speaker wires are cause I'm not super happy with it.
-
Screen installed, doing some testing here with a youtube video.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376707;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376708;image)
Looks really really good!
-
Next up - PLEXIGLASS.
You're not the boss of me acrylic sheet!
Predrill so I can router these holes.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376710;image)
Now build the worlds craziest setup to use the original cracked one as a template.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376711;image)
That should do it.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376709;image)
Controls Installed. No cracks!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376727;image)
Next, build a speaker grill!
Step 1, make the hardboard.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376722;image)
Step 2, ventilate the hell out of your workspace.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376719;image)
Step 3, wrap it in speaker grill cloth. You must pull the cloth taut when wrapping.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376723;image)
Step 4, let it dry and trim.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376721;image)
Step 5, admire your work
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376720;image)
-
Throw that sucker on the wall and play it!
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376724;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376725;image)
Now work turns to the subwoofer and marquee!
-
I always get stuck on step 5...
-
I almost got stuck on step 2. Contact cement will get you really high if you're not careful.
I'll get out the magic eraser after I finish and bolt on the marquee to get the scuffs off the wall.
-
Damn that looks nice! I really like the design and the graphics.
J_K_M_A_N
-
That's a killer looking CP mate. :applaud:
-
That's a killer looking CP mate. :applaud:
Thanks man. It really is stunning in person.
Today I tackled the subwoofer box that will tuck in the bottom of the cabinet. The speaker is a 5.25", Peerless by Tymphany SDS-135F25CP02-04.
Some sharp angles on this box to fit inside of my cabinet.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376781;image)
Skipping forward quite a bit - testing it out
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376776;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376775;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376778;image)
This little thing is GREAT!
With the sound check out of the way it's time to finish the box. Sanding and filler.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376780;image)
Ready for paint - which I'll do tomorrow.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376777;image)
Now I just need one more good weekend to get the marquee together and we'll be at 100% on the cabinet.
-
Subwoofer is complete, waiting for me to pull down the cabinet for install.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376911;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376912;image)
LCD Marquee is built, working on packaging the electronics next. I opted to let a picture frame company make the frame for me. I was just not having luck making it myself at the quality I require.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376913;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376914;image)
Hopefully this weekend the cabinet will be functionally complete, with just software refinements to go for complete functionality.
:applaud:
-
If you ever redo the control panel art I think it would look better if you deleted all those red arcs. They looked out of place and in that last photo I thought oh no a kid had messed it up with a marker but then I scrolled back a page and saw those marks were on purpose.
-
Dont know what designs you have for the LCD marquee but hope you're following the oreo style you have on the cp as that looks great.
-
Honestly, I hadn't done much in that way. What you see here is the completed box with the panel in it.
I'm fitting the controller and conjuring up a way to secure it, then it will just be a dynamic LCD panel showing the game you're playing or some artwork at idle.
I *could* do something with white vinyl on the sides. I'm all ears to any ideas.
-
This is exactly what I would like to build for my game room. Space is at a premium and I like to keep the floor clear to make cleaning up easier, so this is perfect. Going to have to re-read this a couple times this weekend.
-
First I needed a way to mount the marquee after the cabinet was on the wall. It's a bit fragile and needs to go on last.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376991;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376990;image)
With that done, I now needed to package the controller electronics.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376995;image)
While the cabinet is off the wall the sub goes in.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376992;image)
Now the completed marquee gets a test
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376993;image)
And an on-cabinet test
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376989;image)
And finally, on the wall
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376994;image)
I have one last step before the cabinet is complete - which is to make a hole in the lower panel for the sub and a speaker grill.
-
And finally, on the wall
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376994;image)
Dude, that’s too funny that we both used Turtles in Time to test the marquee:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190501/8af841dc3e42a13b3aeea923bb41e1f3.jpg)
-
PS - I really need to get my ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- together and start writing my build thread.
-
I am not a fan of the whole wall mount idea, but I am a fan of your cab. That came out really nicely.
I see the Spotted Cow on the coaster. Where in Wisconsin do you live?
I have seen too many spills in my day. I never like to see drinks on the CP. Especially a pretty one.
-
PS - I really need to get my ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- together and start writing my build thread.
Yes you do!
I am not a fan of the whole wall mount idea, but I am a fan of your cab. That came out really nicely.
I see the Spotted Cow on the coaster. Where in Wisconsin do you live?
I have seen too many spills in my day. I never like to see drinks on the CP. Especially a pretty one.
Thanks Mike. I'm in Chicago. I smuggle beer across the border every time I'm in Wisconsin.
Appreciate the concern. I guess I'm just okay with the risk from my friends.
Soon I'll get the final piece finished up and get back to focus on polishing the software side until I'm satisfied with the reliability.
-
Yeah. I am 5 minutes from the border. I like Uff-da. I buy a bunch because it is seasonal. They make several good brews.
-
I dig the wall mount, and I like how that turned out. Well done!
Thanks for adding something new to the design language - I like seeing builds that aren't an aircraft carrier on a Flynn's. :applaud:
-
Time to finish up the bottom cabinet door.
First was to measure and cut a hole.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=377206;image)
The speaker does NOT sit centered in the cabinet so the hole and speaker grill are a bit oversized to visually center it.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=377202;image)
Adding some fabric and letting it dry
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=377207;image)
Finally, adding the panel back to the cabinet.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=377203;image)
And a few shots of the cabinet complete. Yeah, there's still an umbilical cord to a mouse/keyboard while I continue to refine the software side.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=377209;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=377210;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=377208;image)
-
Quality work! Good job.
-
Huh.
-
Nice one!
Love the money shots!
-
Huh.
Its a nice build. I still don't see the benefit of it being a wall mount over having a more traditional base.
-
I like it :) The only thing I would say is that I wish the side panels went up past the sides of the LCD marquee to "contain it".... the marquee looks like it's just been tacked on as an afterthought in my humble opinion, which is a shame because the rest of the build is so bloody nice.
Aside from that though, great skills putting this thing together. :applaud:
-
I also like it and that little area where you have the beer placed actually kind of works. Very nice craftsmanship and the art and everything came out great. :cheers:
-
I like it :) The only thing I would say is that I wish the side panels went up past the sides of the LCD marquee to "contain it".... the marquee looks like it's just been tacked on as an afterthought in my humble opinion, which is a shame because the rest of the build is so bloody nice.
Aside from that though, great skills putting this thing together. :applaud:
Well, you're not wrong. The original design didn't factor in an LCD marquee. I agree that it would have looked better had I planned for it originally. I'm okay with it though. I had an opportunity to get the LCD and I went for it.
Appreciate all the kind words from you guys.
I have a queue of two more cabinets to build soon - bartops. I'll be back in the "shop" soon.
-
That turned out very nice. :applaud:
-
Huh.
Its a nice build. I still don't see the benefit of it being a wall mount over having a more traditional base.
Yeah I'm not a fan of these cabs. Not particularly the work here though. OP, you've done some good craftsmanship and it looks well built. I just think the concept of these cabinets is just pointless since it takes up the same amount of space as a full cabinet. I can only think these make sense if you are really taking advantage of the vertical space usage by having storage below the cabinet, or if you're is love with your wall paint that it must not be completely covered.
Or if your cabinet had the ability to get even smaller, by being able to fold-up the CP like akin to a Murphy bed, then I can see the point of this design. But otherwise, you're just taking up the same space of a stand-up cab, AND you have the additional annoyance of having to deal with mounting.
-
I get it, the wall mount thing isn't everyone's cup of tea.
One of the objectives were to allow the bar stools to be able to be scooted all the way in - which they do. This absolutely saves space. That would not be possible with a "bottom" of the cabinet existing.
Another thing I've noticed since having the cabinet functional is that it is EXTREMELY comfortable to extended play on while sitting on a bar stool. The legroom is huge due to the design. It's a benefit I hadn't thought of initially but is really nice to have. My older cabinet you'd be bumping your legs up against the bottom trying to get ideal position on the controls. Not with this one.
Anyway, the last portion to get functional is the light guns. I'll be getting those up and running soon.
-
One of the objectives were to allow the bar stools to be able to be scooted all the way in - which they do. This absolutely saves space. That would not be possible with a "bottom" of the cabinet existing.
Understandable. Though, personally I don't think this is a justifiable reason to go through the trouble of a wall mounted cab. But to each their own. Like I said, this project has some good craftsmanship, and looks well built. I'd be really interested in how you do at building a full-size cabinet. Bartops are bartops, not as impressive IMO since people can just follow the same weecade plans that have been done to death. But fullsized original designs is what this forum is seriously lacking as of late. I hope we eventually get back to those projects as the norm.
Good luck on your next projects, even though I might not contribute to the bartop discussions, I'll be sure to follow along with whatever you come up with next.
:cheers:
-
@Jimbo: I didn't pick out the marquee height.....I agree to some degree. I would have made the sides half that height/thickness beyond the screen. The sub element I find ridiculous. A decent, and in cab instances modest, PC 2.1 system does all I have needed for twenty years.
One of the objectives were to allow the bar stools to be able to be scooted all the way in - which they do. This absolutely saves space. That would not be possible with a "bottom" of the cabinet existing.
Another thing I've noticed since having the cabinet functional is that it is EXTREMELY comfortable to extended play on while sitting on a bar stool. The legroom is huge due to the design. It's a benefit I hadn't thought of initially but is really nice to have. My older cabinet you'd be bumping your legs up against the bottom trying to get ideal position on the controls. Not with this one.
Emphasis mine. The design opens the space.
-
One of the objectives were to allow the bar stools to be able to be scooted all the way in - which they do. This absolutely saves space. That would not be possible with a "bottom" of the cabinet existing.
Understandable. Though, personally I don't think this is a justifiable reason to go through the trouble of a wall mounted cab. But to each their own. Like I said, this project has some good craftsmanship, and looks well built. I'd be really interested in how you do at building a full-size cabinet. Bartops are bartops, not as impressive IMO since people can just follow the same weecade plans that have been done to death. But fullsized original designs is what this forum is seriously lacking as of late. I hope we eventually get back to those projects as the norm.
Good luck on your next projects, even though I might not contribute to the bartop discussions, I'll be sure to follow along with whatever you come up with next.
:cheers:
I disagree. There are no rules as to what the preferred design of cab people should be building. Building the usual upright cabinet is the easiest option as there just mostly empty space. Fitting everything into a bartop is a challenge in itself. People jest about the endless clones of the weecade, but all uprights are nearly identical with small variations on a basic shape.
The forum is for building your own arcade controls, which the op has achieved and beyond.
-
That’s cool, you’re entitled to your own opinion as well. I stated mine. I didn’t state any “rules”, as you obtusely pointed out, that was a personal POV. Hence what I wrote: “Personally I don’t think this is...”, emphasis on the personally part. Reading comprehension in indeed a lost art.
-
Wasnt being funny dude. You actually said "I hope we eventually get back to those projects as the norm." That's the bit that got my back up. But only a little bit...peace..
-
"I hope we eventually get back to those projects as the norm."
Yeah. That seems like a pretty incendiary statement. ::)
No wonder people get so mad at me.
-
Wasnt being funny dude. You actually said "I hope we eventually get back to those projects as the norm." That's the bit that got my back up. But only a little bit...peace..
Well don’t pull your back out. Opinions are like buttholes...everyone’s got’em. Not something to lose sleep over.
-
Wasnt being funny dude. You actually said "I hope we eventually get back to those projects as the norm." That's the bit that got my back up. But only a little bit...peace..
Well don’t pull your back out. Opinions are like buttholes...everyone’s got’em. Not something to lose sleep over.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190809/0a03c2b6d4d52b075d10f7e7c3c35516.gif)
-
I'd be really interested in how you do at building a full-size cabinet. Bartops are bartops, not as impressive IMO since people can just follow the same weecade plans that have been done to death. But fullsized original designs is what this forum is seriously lacking as of late. I hope we eventually get back to those projects as the norm.
I think this comment specifically is the most inflammatory to me - You do realize that everything about this build is "full size" right? It's a 27" monitor, full size or even oversize control panel, full size 3" trackball, and all. In fact, building a full size cabinet with limited space was one of the challenges of this build. Why didn't I just build a normal cabinet? Because I wanted to push myself to make a full size cabinet in a unique package.
The sub element I find ridiculous. A decent, and in cab instances modest, PC 2.1 system does all I have needed for twenty years.
This is kind of hilarious - a 2.1 system includes a sub. I've had multiple people comment on how good my cabinet sounds. The sub was 100% worth it. I didn't originally plan for one but after hearing it compared to my old cabinet which had one (a simple 2.1 computer speaker setup mind you) I felt I needed one. The setup has small speakers. The whole top is basically glass, with only a 2" strip for speakers. The ones I chose sound great but lacked the oomph I was after in the bottom end. I'd do it again in a heartbeat. It truly sounds fantastic.
I'm kind of happy my cabinet is causing controversy. Makes you all think about what it means to make an arcade cabinet and what an "arcade" is.
I hope I inspire people to build unique and new designs. This forum would suck if we all built the same thing wouldn't it?
-
I'm kind of happy my cabinet is causing controversy. Makes you all think about what it means to make an arcade cabinet and what an "arcade" is.
I hope I inspire people to build unique and new designs. This forum would suck if we all built the same thing wouldn't it?
Yes, Yes it would, me personally I don't care what people build, just build something and show it off, I live vicariously through the projects here :) :) :)
-
I think that when you build something unconventional, you are more likely to get a mixed reaction.
I dig this cab, and I think the space savings are real. Many disagree, and that's okay too.
I'm glad that meltman posted his build, and I hope that he sticks around. :cheers:
-
Thanks Laythe. I appreciate it and am closely following your unconventional build.
Your craftsmanship is phenomenal. We can both own our fun designs. I may copy you in the future 😉
-
Yeah - don't sweat it. Like what was said earlier, opinions are like buttholes. Some are stinky and shouldn't be shared. :)
That's quality craftsmanship. The design is well executed. It's well documented and done pretty quickly judging by the age of your kids, your workshop, and level of detail. It's an ideal project for BYOAC. If there were awards being handed out, this would surely be a contender, if not a winner!
-
To be fair, I’m a purist.
So my opinion will have a basis in that.
Also, to further the fairness, I did praise the craftsmanship here. There’s no dispute about that, the work is fantastic.
So however you or the peanut gallery wants to portray it is fine.
My opinion stands that it’s not worth the hassle of designing a cabinet that A. The main purpose is to save “chair space”, and B. Is restricted to locations were studs are present. You lose the flexibility of relocation all in the name of “tucking your chairs in”? Yeah, no...
Now Lew’s statement is concerning. He would rather people shut-up and drink the kool-Aid rather than give you real opinions. If all you want is a pat on the head, you came to the wrong place. But if you want real non-facetious feedback, stick around. There are still some members here that won’t beat around the bush and tell you something straight-up.
-
Now Lew’s statement is concerning. He would rather people shut-up and drink the kool-Aid rather than give you real opinions. If all you want is a pat on the head, you came to the wrong place. But if you want real non-facetious feedback, stick around. There are still some members here that won’t beat around the bush and tell you something straight-up.
I don't know why anyone would make a harsh negative comment on someones finished product. It's just not civil.
Say what you want about me, no one has ever left the forum from a comment I made on their project.
-
Hypocrite.
-
I don't know why anyone would make a harsh negative comment on someones finished product. It's just not civil.
My intent wasn’t malice. My apologies to meltman, if you think I’m trying to degrade EXPANSE, I wasn’t trying to. It’s superbly built. The construction aspects, the planning, the vision, execution, all fantastic.
I was just stating the justifications that we’re presented for choosing this kind of design isn’t something I’d go for. Sorry for the aggressive tone.
I would say that one of the benefits of this style of cab is that it looks less bulky, even as melt pointed out, has the specs as a standard cab. You get more -Feng Shui- for a cab that is mounted, and a bit less materials used to house it. It’s a good halfway between a full standup, and a sit-down cab. But it just lacks the ability to relocate. I think that’s part big of this hobby, and should be pointed out as a tradeoff if others were to follow this style of cab.
Say what you want about me, no one has ever left the forum from a comment I made on their project.
Me too?
I dunno, I don’t pay attention to who comes and goes here. But if I ever made someone leave from my comments then I’m truly sorry about that. No one should take my opinion as “the rules”, or as an influencer. I just a passionate dude about this stuff.
-
Get it ALLLL out of your systems guys.
:laugh2:
I'm cooking up some plans for an unorthodox bartop (actually going to make three) so get your torches and pitchforks ready!
-
You need to come out to one of my parties. I can smuggle a bunch of Spotted Cow over the border for you.
-
Lol any time. Moon man is where it’s at though! :lol
-
I like uff da, but it is seasonal.
The big one is coming up. My birthday is in September.
Details are imminent.
-
Hello meltman,
Got a quick question for you. I see the marquee setup you've got going on. Turns out I just bought the exact same LCD monitor for my cabinet as well! And I'm using Launchbox/Bigbox for my frontend too.
My question....these LCD bar monitors are seeming to me very difficult to configure. Basically, it's displaying half a 1080p screen. So....how are you getting your marquee images in BigBox to display properly in the screen, instead of being displayed at the bottom, cut in half? Did you change the resolution of the display? Is there a way to orient the marquee image to display more at the top of the monitor, etc, etc.
Any information would be most helpful, and thank you.
Craig - Atlanta, Ga.
-
Craig, see this thread:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,159888.0.html (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,159888.0.html)
-
I know his one has been done for a while and no comments since 2019 but I haven't been on here regularly for many years.
Very nice build here. Artwork, style, execution, all perfect. :applaud: