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1   Everything Else / Re: Vintage BMX bike: How'd I doon Today at 08:23:22 am

Started by whammoed - Last post by danny_galaga

I think so long as the frame is Mongoose it will be fine. Then you can enjoy teaching down all the missing genuine peripherals.

Started by negative1 - Last post by negative1

looks like people are impressed with the build quality and more authentic gameplay
from dragons lair:



later
-1

3   Everything Else / Re: Vintage BMX bike: How'd I doon Today at 07:28:57 am

Started by whammoed - Last post by J_K_M_A_N

Very nice! Makes me really miss my Skyway TA I had.   :hissy:  I loved that bike. It was strong but light. I had the KKT Lightning pedals (that also took a lot of skin). It was a racing bike but I beat the heck out of it on trails and jumps. Sigh...the gold ole days.

J_K_M_A_N

Started by bobbyb13 - Last post by Mike A

Nice work so far.

Love it.

5   Monitor/Video Forum / Re: Naomi CRT Swap issueon Today at 06:18:13 am

Started by ID4 - Last post by ID4

Hi!

Ok I know how to measure ohms and inductance of yokes, I have done it before.

The Toshiba yoke LH is around 0,20 that meets the nanao chassis.

The sanwa chassis is compatible with the toshiba A68KSM696X, as described in the service manual.

Toshiba (A68KSM696X):

Lh   0.196mh
Lv   13.8mh
Rh   0.6 ohms
Rv   6.9 ohms

I have another philips tube (A68ESF002X43):

Lh    0,309 mh
Lv   5,2 mh
Rh   0.340 ohms
Rv   4,680 ohms

Remember that I'm using a philips tube (A68ESF002X11) with the Toshiba original yoke (A68KSM696X)

If I hypothetically use directly the A68ESF002X43 philips tube including his original yoke, with the nanao or the sanwa chassis, I would have to modify the chassis to make it compatible with the philips yoke's Lv   5,2 mh, in that case what capacitos need to be changed? and what values?

Thanks!

ID4

you need a special meter called an LCR meter to properly measure the horizontal and vertical yoke windings and see if they are close enough to the original.

your horizontal inductance should be within about ~0.05 uH and the vertical within ~0.3 uH without having to change anything and your regular screen controls can make up for the difference... otherwise you are looking at changing tuning the capacitors in the horizontal to try and make up for it. any further than ~0.15 uH on the horizontal and ~1uH on the vertical from the original, will likely blow up the chassis when powered on.



you can KIND OF measure it with an ohm meter to find out if it's close, but your really need to find out what the natural oscillation frequency of the coils are otherwise they yoke will fight the current being put out by the chassis and run really hot... or just plain blow up when you first power it on.

the yoke is essentially a coil of wire that has a natural flow of current in and out and does not create resistance. if operated outside of this natural flow in and out, the coil resists the change and becomes a blockage in the circuit. other parts of the circuit relying on this current flowing through unrestricted will fail.

Started by Calamity - Last post by Calamity

I added on C0328911.inf missing vulkan files from 2021 adrenalin package, it's all. Isn't necessary modify modify .exe or certificate.

The inf's hash needs to be in the .cat (catalogue) file. It can be installed without it probably but it's not ideal.

Started by bobbyb13 - Last post by bobbyb13

Damn wind finally stopped blowing and I didn't hear any feral dogs yet, so...



I have dicovered something important about the sprayer.
Mineral spirits (in meager quantity) are fine for thinning your oil base paint out a bit so it doesn't mung up your gun while shooting, but when it comes to cleaning it out afterwards...?
Turpentine or nothing.

It is the only thing strong enough to melt all the crap back out of all those pinholes in the gun parts and not destroy anything in the process.

The other critical bit was this time around I decided to go a bit depper with sanding prep and took it to 400 grit before even laying the primer on.
And I ditched the microfiber type cloth I was using previously to start on removing sanding dust and just opted for a blast from the airgun.
I think that cloth was raising the nap actually since it grabs loose fibers (however small.)
I can already see that the finish is going to be greatly improved from previous builds.

Maybe tomorrow after I fix some stuff at the local Boy Scout camp and hang some lights out on my buddy's new front deck tomorrow then this project can actually turn yellow too.
 :D

Started by saint - Last post by bobbyb13

 :dizzy:

9   Everything Else / Re: Vintage BMX bike: How'd I doon Today at 04:47:01 am

Started by whammoed - Last post by bobbyb13

Looks in great shape for a chromoly survivor of the era!

My buddy Tom had one that same frame set.
Memory betrays me on the maker of the bars and it seems like that seat wound up on everybody's bike eventually at some point, but those Bear trap style pedals took a lot of skin out of my shins BITD.
 :lol

Funny, because my (considerably more humble- and heavier) Diamond Back Viper had the same rear dropouts I believe.

Man, what a great time to be a kid that was.

Started by Calamity - Last post by psakhis

Thanks psakhis,

I'd like to make this package official, if it's ok. I'd only need to pass the inf through the signature process here.

Is the runtime .exe instaler required? Do you have to run it after CRT Emudriver's setup?
I added on C0328911.inf missing vulkan files from 2021 adrenalin package, it's all. Isn't necessary modify modify .exe or certificate.
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