The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Arcade Collecting => Restorations & repair => Topic started by: Cobolisdead on July 13, 2015, 06:54:24 pm
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So, I got a lot of four arcade machines dumped into my lap. The first I am going to work on is the Donkey Kong Jr, Serial # 455, in an orange Nintendo cab. The side art is ripped up and faded, so I have new art for that, and I plan on ordering the instruction card, instruction sticker, and coin sticker to make it look nice. The bezel, control panel overlay, and Marquee look great! Overall, this cab is in great shape with only a few dings to the laminate, and the fact that it has a security bar.
I plugged her up and it comes on, but the left side is compacted so you can't see the last inch or so of the left side of the screen. I tried adjusting the monitor and, everywhere that section of the image went, so did the compact section. Is this an issue with the ROMs or an issue with the monitor needing to be recapped? I sadly think that it is the latter, but I am just guessing. Anyone have any thoughts on what to do with this?
Pics coming soon!
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Here are some pics!
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Here is the screen. Any ideas on what to do to fix this?
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Any idea on what the monitor is in that? I can find a model number or even a manufacturer on it. I want to order a cap kit for it and see if that fixes the issue.
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Any idea on what the monitor is in that? I can find a model number or even a manufacturer on it. I want to order a cap kit for it and see if that fixes the issue.
A Sanyo EZ-20, probably.
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It certainly looks like one. I went ahead and ordered the cap kit for it. I need to get a monitor discharge tool as well now that I think about it.
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Cap kits are cheap enough, so that's where I would start. And yes, DK Jr's came with the Sanyo 20EZ.
PM your address and I'll send you the coin sticker. I have a few extra lying around when I made one for mine.
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Now that Bob Roberts is out of commission for a while, is there anywhere else I can get a discharge tool?
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I went and ordered a cap kit for the monitor, as you guys seem to be right. I saw Tighe's video of him doing a capkit on his DK Jr, and it looks just like mine.
There is a tv repair place I can take it too, and he might be able to fix it. However, I would like to be able to do a Capkit, as I never have done that before.(I am still new to this hobby).
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Cap kits are super easy. Just pay attention to what you are doing, and make sure you have all the right equipment. I use a desoldering gun myself, and it has made life super simpler.
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Cap kits are cheap enough, so that's where I would start. And yes, DK Jr's came with the Sanyo 20EZ.
PM your address and I'll send you the coin sticker. I have a few extra lying around when I made one for mine.
Cool! I definitely need to get replacement artwork for the instruction card and the sticker sets. I already picked up a set of side art for it, and I think I will try to salvage the coin door and mechanisms. I definitely need to pick up some new T-molding though.
The controls I am still looking into.
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Cap kits are super easy. Just pay attention to what you are doing, and make sure you have all the right equipment. I use a desoldering gun myself, and it has made life super simpler.
I saw Tighe's video of him doing the same monitor, and he makes it look easy enough. Of course looking easy and being easy are two different things. :)
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I just capped my 20EZ with a kit from iankellogg.com I did the filter cap as well. Quite happy with his packaging and overall service. Capping is not really hard at all, seems more difficult then it really is. take your time and do some research and you'll be ok.
I'll add your restore thread to the Nintendo cab sticky :applaud:
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Thanks! I should have the cap kit this Friday, so I might be able to get to it Saturday morning.
Anyone have any tips for removing the old artwork?
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Anyone have any tips for removing the old artwork?
Heat gun, scraper, and patience
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Any qualms about me using a cheap harbor freight one on it? Or do I need to have a specific kind to avoid damaging the laminate behind it?
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Not really, just take your time. Also some SimpleGreen and a roll of new flat Nintendo t-moulding will go a long way.
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I have a couple of recomendations for T-Molding, but I saw this on Ebay and was wondering if that would work?
http://www.ebay.com/itm/220680327356?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/220680327356?_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
I can't tell if it is flat though.
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I used a cheapo harbor freight heat gun, the heat regulation is ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- on it, so pick a temp lower than you want and it peachy.
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I'm cautious about that eBay moulding. It just looks like white standard stuf, and not the nice flat stuff you really need. I buy from T-moulding.com or MikesArcade.com.
Actualy, you're probably gonna want a few things from the Nintendo parts section of MikesArcade. Like coin mech face kits, and some control panel parts. I'd pick up some tmoulding from him at the same time. Mesure your cabinet to make sure you order the proper stuff.
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T-moulding.com has it in stock, so I will probably just get it there.
Mike has a button set and a new joystick with shaft I will pick up though. That should make the control panel look really nice.
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be sure to keep an eye on the buy sell trade on KLOV as well. Id also check with Rick over on Arcadeskin.com if he has a DK Jr kit. He reverse prints all his plexi bits and it looks Crazy good without the steep price of new old stock parts or silkscreened reproductions if you're on a budget. He specializes in Nintendo cabs as well.
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Ok! New T-molding, Joystick shaft with black ball top, Button set, and instruction cards are on the way! This machine should look pretty awesome once all that is installed! I am going to try to work on the side art tonight.
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Well, that only day that I have had to work on this it thunder stormed all night. However, everything but the instruction cards has come in, and I should have that next week.
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This thread is useless without pictures!! ;)
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lol! I might be able to get some work done on it soon, but I have three other on going projects as well.
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So all the parts are here, but my hauler is in the shop so I am just going to be working on the Control Panels tonight.
I should be able to swap out the Instruction card, Swap out the joystick and buttons, and apply new stickers to the cab.
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I'm watching this one closely. I've got an original DK cab restoration on deck, so I'm counting on you and Chance! :cheers:
moar pics!
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Awesome! I will be sure to take and post some pics tonight.
I am holding off on the t-molding and side art until I can get the capkit done. I don't want to risk damaging either of those transporting it.
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Well, I got the card and buttons changed out, but I couldn't get the pin out of the joystick. Is there some special trick to that? I ask because the Eclip wouldn't budge, all it would do is spin. No matter what I tried, it just spun. I guess that I should try it off of the panel next time.
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Best way to get the eclip out is to start it off with a tiny flat head screwdriver. That or a pair of needle nose should do the trick.
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Helps if you wipe away any grime first as well. Oh and take the clip off slowly, everything is under spring pressure and will just go flying
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Helps if you wipe away any grime first as well. Oh and take the clip off slowly, everything is under spring pressure and will just go flying
I can just see it now! "My EYE!"
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Haha!
First time I tried it I was so anxious to start work that I popped the clip, lost it in the carpet, and spent the next few minutes looking for the barrel. :-\
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Some progress pics! New t molding, stickers, and I have removed half of the old side art.
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I was able to get the eclip off by bending it with a wrench. There was literally no space to try to pull it off, which makes me think that it was put on by an operator while it was in route.
I swapped out the joystick, removed and replaced the old t-molding, Put on the coin sticker and the instruction sticker. I also spent most of my time with a scrapper and a heat gun trying to remove the side art. I have half of it done, but it took forever and I still need to go back over it again so I can get a smoother surface for the new side art. I am doing something wrong here? Is it supposed to take this long for such a small piece of side art?
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So I spent last night trying to take off the other sides art. I get it done, and take my new sideart out, and bam! It is too small! It looks like they scaled it down as it is about 5" shorter and nothing lines up with the old art! :( Did DK jr have different size sideart? Or did I just get ripped off on my replacement artwork?
EDIT" Side art, not side arm. Although it did read funnier that way.
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I may have missed it but where did you get your artwork from?
Also, I plan on ordering this kit for my .vs cabinet I'm restoring: http://arcadeskin.com/index.php/product/113-nintendo-vs-custom-full-art-kit (http://arcadeskin.com/index.php/product/113-nintendo-vs-custom-full-art-kit)
The original artwork is boring so this will work better.
DeLuSioNaL29
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Also, I plan on ordering this kit for my .vs cabinet I'm restoring: http://arcadeskin.com/index.php/product/113-nintendo-vs-custom-full-art-kit (http://arcadeskin.com/index.php/product/113-nintendo-vs-custom-full-art-kit)
The original artwork is boring so this will work better.
DeLuSioNaL29
That's pretty cool. I didn't know there were guys out there doing alternate VS artwork. Good to know.
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For the monitor issue:
Check the adjustment controls on the actual PCB. It has the same pots on the PCB, VR1 and VR2, check page 6.. http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/D/DKJr.pdf (http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/D/DKJr.pdf)
If that doesn't help then I would go with the re-capping option.
D
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I may have missed it but where did you get your artwork from?
Also, I plan on ordering this kit for my .vs cabinet I'm restoring: http://arcadeskin.com/index.php/product/113-nintendo-vs-custom-full-art-kit (http://arcadeskin.com/index.php/product/113-nintendo-vs-custom-full-art-kit)
The original artwork is boring so this will work better.
DeLuSioNaL29
I just got he artwork off of eBay. I had some cash I had to spend on there. Here is the listing.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/201370476574?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT (http://www.ebay.com/itm/201370476574?_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT)
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You get what you pay for when it comes to side art.
And DeL, don't send any $$$ until you are sure that he's shipping. RiddickRick is going through some personal stuff right now and isn't on top of things (poor guy).
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I already contacted him. He said that he is behind on custom stuff but the stuff in the store is already done and easy to print.
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Apparently, the art that I got was based off of a scan that a guy from here, Zorg I think was his name, scanned in sometime before 2008. Anyone know the best way to get the adhesive residue off of the side of the machine?
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goo-gone , goof off, etc whatever is your preferred brand of petroleum distillates
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goo-gone , goof off, etc whatever is your preferred brand of petroleum distillates
yea, any adhesive remover should work. It's pretty difficult to damage the formica surface.
If you still need appropriate sideart, lemme know. I can print them off based off the measurements of my original DK Jr. cab.
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I may have missed it but where did you get your artwork from?
Also, I plan on ordering this kit for my .vs cabinet I'm restoring: http://arcadeskin.com/index.php/product/113-nintendo-vs-custom-full-art-kit (http://arcadeskin.com/index.php/product/113-nintendo-vs-custom-full-art-kit)
The original artwork is boring so this will work better.
DeLuSioNaL29
I wouldn't even bother. I've been trying to get ahold of Rick from ArcadeSkin.com for almost 2 months now. I'm starting to get fed up so I'm gonna see if anyone else can replicate his reverse print effect. I understand the personal stuff, but he's showing some signs of being still in business but stopped replying to my emails, PM's and facebook messages. Really frustrated. :-\
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I may have missed it but where did you get your artwork from?
Also, I plan on ordering this kit for my .vs cabinet I'm restoring: http://arcadeskin.com/index.php/product/113-nintendo-vs-custom-full-art-kit (http://arcadeskin.com/index.php/product/113-nintendo-vs-custom-full-art-kit)
The original artwork is boring so this will work better.
DeLuSioNaL29
I wouldn't even bother. I've been trying to get ahold of Rick from ArcadeSkin.com for almost 2 months now. I'm starting to get fed up so I'm gonna see if anyone else can replicate his reverse print effect. I understand the personal stuff, but he's showing some signs of being still in business but stopped replying to my emails, PM's and facebook messages. Really frustrated. :-\
Yeah, my warning to DeL was based on your experiences thus far.
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Jason (Del) just told me he's replying on Facebook. (well at least not to me because i've tried) #Frustrating.
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Jason (Del) just told me he's replying on Facebook. (well at least not to me because i've tried) #Frustrating.
Well, you're Canadian, he's Puerto Rican. That's probably why. :gobama
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But seriously, DeL mentioned that the hangup might be the fact you want custom work and he wants something already printed.
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I got ahold of Rick.
Ball's rolling. He's swamped, but he's catching up.
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For the monitor issue:
Check the adjustment controls on the actual PCB. It has the same pots on the PCB, VR1 and VR2, check page 6.. http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/D/DKJr.pdf (http://www.arcade-museum.com/manuals-videogames/D/DKJr.pdf)
If that doesn't help then I would go with the re-capping option.
D
Did you give the monitor adjustments a go?
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I tired some goo gone on the cabinet side to try to get the residual adhesive off of the sides, bu sadly it didn't work. I guess I need to get the right sideart for it.
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I tired some goo gone on the cabinet side to try to get the residual adhesive off of the sides, bu sadly it didn't work. I guess I need to get the right sideart for it.
I just went threw this with my DK...if you have the old side art off and just the nasty sticky adhesive, I figured out how to get it off in about 3 min...squirt on goo-gone all over the adhesive and rub it in with your hand (its def messy) let it soak for a few seconds...have a small pack of razor blades on hand...holding each side of it....make full scraps across the adhesive...it will come straight off (getting the angle correct is the hardest part) but it does not scratch the laminate on the side..that stuff is rock solid...also Game on Grafix DK side art is 1 1/2 inch smaller than the original art..the guy finally emailed me back saying no one has ever said anything before (10 years of printing same size) I told him my only reason that may be is because 90% of people have to repaint the cab which wouldnt matter...in my case the cab is fine but you can see the difference in color of the cab from over the years where under the sticker the color was preserved. he said if I can prove his art is smaller he would like to fix it...so maybe he will make it correct...not (20" x 27')...if you need me to explain further I can make a video of how I got it off...it was 1000% easier than what I was doing before
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he said if I can prove his art is smaller he would like to fix it...so maybe he will make it correct...not (20" x 27')
If you need any assistance with measurements of original artwork, I can post a pic of my original DKJr. artwork.
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he said if I can prove his art is smaller he would like to fix it...so maybe he will make it correct...not (20" x 27')
If you need any assistance with measurements of original artwork, I can post a pic of my original DKJr. artwork.
Mine is a DK...I think the original was 21 15/16 x 28 1/16 or something close to that...i have it written somewhere...GameOnGrafix guy has not emailed me back since, im going to assume he isnt going to fix it...sucks I dont want to go threw the hassle and sent it back wait for a refund, then another 2 weeks for other art to get sent to me...im just going to paint the sides and put the artwork on...But I do have a DK Jr waiting on me to pick it up, I just gotta get this DK done and gone to make space
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:( Sorry about that man, i feel kinda at fault for that. i figured they were on point.
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:( Sorry about that man, i feel kinda at fault for that. i figured they were on point.
no prob bro...things happen...it is what it is..dont feel bad... :censored: happens...it is what it is...im not worried about it
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I finally got myself a discharge tool from Bob Roberts. I paid a little bit extra money to have it come assembled. I don't know when I will be able to get back to this project though, as the Wife is due any day now.
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Pffft, Rookie.
Be a man next time and build one.
I bought one of Bob's. Quality counts for a lot.
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Nice tool! :applaud:
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Ok, new baby has arrived and has taken up all of my free time to work on this, so that is why there have been no updates. However, I was thinking about putting in a switcher in this and making it into a multi-Kong by putting a Donkey Kong PCB in it. Anyone here have any experience doing that?
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So I scrapped the Multi-Kong idea, and I got back on track with this restore.
Last night I finally got the monitor out to do a capkit on the monitor. The discharging tool didn't even make a pop when I tried to discharge the monitor. It must have been powered down for long enough to lose the charge. The most difficult part was trying the get the bezel off without knowing how to swing it up off the bottom. Fortunately, I found the manual in the bottom of the cab, and it told me how to remove the glass. I will try to do the soldering tonight and get it back together again. Hopefully this will fix the vertical collapse issue and and I can finish the side art and be done with this project!
By the way, check out that awesome burn in!
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Last night I finally got the monitor out to do a capkit on the monitor. The discharging tool didn't even make a pop when I tried to discharge the monitor. It must have been powered down for long enough to lose the charge.
Usually the tube is pretty much discharged after being switched off for about 15 minutes.
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Well, you hear all the horror stories about how dangerous it is to do, and since this was my first one, I was awfully nervous.
No work last night as the baby kept me busy all night last night, and tonight is my anniversary, so I am hoping to get to work on it this Wednesday.
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Well, you hear all the horror stories about how dangerous it is to do, and since this was my first one, I was awfully nervous.
Better safe than sorry. After 15 minutes it's pretty safe, but discharge it anyway.
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No pics right now, but I used some of this on the bezel last night and it really helped.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UCYRZU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00 (http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002UCYRZU?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o01_s00)
The scratches are still there, but they are much less noticeable now.
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So I got a cap kit from twistedquarter.com for this monitor, but the list they sent me is off. I am comparing it to johns arcade's Sanyo recap video he did a few months ago, and the values for which cap going where on the sheet he sent me don't match up. C201 for example should be a 10uF 50V but the sheet says 100uF 16V. Can anyone please find me the correct listing? I really need to get this monitor capped today!
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I literally just capped the sanyo 20EZ on my DK. I used Ian Kellogg's Kit (https://iankellogg.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=7&zenid=i7dfb8egih37ut0os76f275kr6)
His kits come with each cap labeled very clearly and with included directions:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=136713.0;attach=342152;image)
Ian's kits come highly recommended and I trust what he gave me. After all, my CRT looks fantastic after using his kit.
Also, the uF rating of the cap you remove needs to match the cap you are putting in. Just like John's video says, the voltage can be higher (not ever lower) but the uF must match.
Can you tell if your monitor has been capped before? Mine was and some of the caps ratings we way off.
In the end, your caps should match what the above image states. Let us know what you come up with. :)
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The original schematic for the sanyo called for a 100uF 16V cap. The later revisions of the schematic have 10uF 50V there. I don't believe it will be harmful either way so if you already have a cap kit, use it if you want.
Just for your own sanity. check the cap that is on your sanyo. I ran around my basement looking for all the sanyos I haven't capped yet to verify and they all had 10uF 50V. So I am going to keep packing the 10uF 50V in mine.
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Thanks for the replies! I bought this capkit six months ago and it has been on the shelves since then, as I have been busy and am just now getting to it. Ian, I have heard nothing but praise about your kits, and I really wished that I had ordered one from you instead.
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Well, I got the Capkit installed. I did find one that was leaking, so hopefully this will fix the problem. There were a few tricky spots where the connections are very close to another one, and I had to use a flat head screwdriver to keep them separate. I am very much a noob at this, as this is my first capkit and my second time using a soldering iron. I am going to try to assemble the monitor and get it reinstalled tonight. Hopefully the thing won't explode! lol, :timebomb:
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Right on man.
Just a heads up...Don't freak out when you first fire it up and it looks like crap. Mine looked pretty terrible but after about an hour of fiddling around with ALL the adjustment pots, I got it looking shaweet.
Some of the pots (ie the ones on the flyback) are incredibly sensitive. There is like a mm difference between GOOD and BAD.
Let us know if you need help with the pots.
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Sadly, no updates right now. Last night's Alabama vs Clemson national championship game kind of took up my entire night. Man, what a game though! :applaud: Tonight I will get that monitor reassembled and back into the cabinet. I am hopeful that my capkit job did the trick and there will be no vertical collapse.
A side note. the shield to block the light from the monitor came apart when I removed it to get the monitor out. Any reason why I can't replace that with black poster board?
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Any reason why I can't replace that with black poster board?
You sure can! (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,144583.msg1538836.html#msg1538836)
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Cool!
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Well, I got the capkit done and the monitor reassembled. I got it back installed in the cabinet, and turned it on. Fortunately, it did not catch fire. It looked a lot better, with much better colors than prior to the capkit. However, the vertical collapse still remains!
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Any ideas on what to try next?
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The original schematic for the sanyo called for a 100uF 16V cap. The later revisions of the schematic have 10uF 50V there. I don't believe it will be harmful either way so if you already have a cap kit, use it if you want.
Just for your own sanity. check the cap that is on your sanyo. I ran around my basement looking for all the sanyos I haven't capped yet to verify and they all had 10uF 50V. So I am going to keep packing the 10uF 50V in mine.
Hey Ian, can you tell me if these two are the transistors that are in the pic attached?
https://iankellogg.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=1_4&products_id=94
It was recommended that I replace those to try to fix this problem.
Thanks!
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It seems that someone else on KLOV confirmed that those are the ones that I need to replace! So, I ordered those from Ian and got the two day shipping. Hopefully I will have them this weekend to get cracking on this!
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Yo...you need some Simple Green up in that monitor chassis. ;)
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LOL!
Yeah, that isn't mine, its just the one that someone posted on KLOV to show me what parts they believe that I needed to replace. Not that my Chassis is that much better mine you.
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I did pick up some mean green yesterday to clean up the monitor with. Hopefully it will do a decent job. Capkit with the missing Capacitors is on the way and should be here tomorrow, thanks to Ian! Hopefully I can get this thing up and running!
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So the parts are here, but quick question. Can the Bipolar Caps be inserted either way or is there a trick to them?
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Bipolar caps can go either way. They don't have polarity.
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And the problem is fixed! :applaud:
Now to cut out a new shroud and and then to fix the side art!
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Anyone know where to get a bulb and starter for this cabinet? The place they recommended on KLOV wanted $21 for shipping.
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Here is the bulb (http://www.bulbtronics.com/Search-The-WareHouse/ProductDetail.aspx?sid=0003031&pid=99FL10D&AspxAutoDetectCookieSupport=1)
Here is the starter (http://www.bulbtronics.com/Search-The-WareHouse/ProductDetail.aspx?sid=0016177&pid=TMFG7E)
Alternativly you can go to TopBulb.com (http://www.topbulb.com/)
Then type in the following part numbers.
Here is the fluorescent bulb ($1.75):
F10T8/CW
Here is the starter ($3.75):
FG-7E
All of the above goes credit to John's Arcade.
HOWEVER,
If you really want to keep in simple you can just get a Fluorescent Light Fixture (http://m.homedepot.com/p/GE-Slim-Line-14-in-Fluorescent-Light-Fixture-10168/202024436) from Home Depot. I'm told a 120v light fixture will still work on the 100v plug in a DK cab. (This is what I will be doing for my DK. It was missing the entire fixture)
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Bulbtronics is the place that wants $21 for shipping. Topbulb only wanted $9, so for $14 shipped, that works for me.
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HOWEVER,
If you really want to keep in simple you can just get a Fluorescent Light Fixture (http://m.homedepot.com/p/GE-Slim-Line-14-in-Fluorescent-Light-Fixture-10168/202024436) from Home Depot. I'm told a 120v light fixture will still work on the 100v plug in a DK cab. (This is what I will be doing for my DK. It was missing the entire fixture)
This is what I did when I bought my DKJr. cab 15 years ago. Still going strong.
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I will have to remember that for the next one then.
The wife and I cut out the new shroud and it fits! Just need to work on the sides tomorrow and get the adhesive residue off of them so I can put on the new side art and this project will be finished!
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So I worked the side of the cabinet with a plastic razor, goo gone adhesive remover, and a wire scrub brush and I still couldn't get all the old adhesive off of it!
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Been following, stop teasing, it's time for some pics!
I kid of course... ah adhesive residue the arcader's proverbial hemmroids.
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Here is the cab side after I initially worked it over for around an hour or so.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/Skywarp_TPK/Arcade/913a32c34d50b08bacaf72f6f32e5e25_zpswo0jxzeo.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Skywarp_TPK/media/Arcade/913a32c34d50b08bacaf72f6f32e5e25_zpswo0jxzeo.jpg.html)
And here it is once I stood it up again and worked it with plastic razors swapping them out every three minutes or so.
(http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v136/Skywarp_TPK/Arcade/9cbe2de3d507157022b73190846a3190_zpsofszgtel.jpg) (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/Skywarp_TPK/media/Arcade/9cbe2de3d507157022b73190846a3190_zpsofszgtel.jpg.html)
Somewhat improved but not really.
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New side art has been ordered, and hopefully should be here by next weekend. Then I can finally finish this project!
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new side art is on! I need to get some double sided tape for the shroud, but then she should be all done! Pics coming soon!
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Here is my video!
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3rPKByp4CdE&app=desktop (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3rPKByp4CdE&app=desktop)
Finally done with this project!
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Watched the video. Nice DK Jr. You have there.
It's cool you know the history behind it. I was wondering about the decals on the side. Enjoy it!
Nice work and thanks for sharing! :cheers:
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Looks good! But...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bt9zSfinwFA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bt9zSfinwFA)
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Watched the video. Nice DK Jr. You have there.
It's cool you know the history behind it. I was wondering about the decals on the side. Enjoy it!
Nice work and thanks for sharing! :cheers:
Thanks! Yeah, the decals are just stamps that they put on each machine. Goes back to the early 90s on this one. I thought it was neat and left them on there.
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Looks good! But...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bt9zSfinwFA (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Bt9zSfinwFA)
LOL! Well, if you saw the rest of my packed garage, you would be telling me to turn that camera. :)