Post by: javeryh on May 30, 2018, 11:00:17 am
(https://i.imgur.com/nYKxesV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8JKWq0l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Y1AXDxV.jpg)
To Do:
- Get ServoStik working using RGB Commander
- Paint dustwasher (white?)
- Finalize game lists
________________________________________________________________
For my first arcade project in 9(!) years I've decided to make a small custom bartop cabinet for my son. I am pretty much out of space at home for full-sized cabs but the itch to build something just won't go away. Since I last finished my DK+ I have put an addition on my house and put a movie theater in my basement - those projects took a ton of time (and money) but were well worth it. The movie theater means I don't have as much space for upright cabinets as I'd like so my solution is to build a bartop that my son can play in his room and easily move around the house if he wants.
Goals:
- Small footprint. I do not really like the hulking 2P bartops that I see all over the place. They look huge and at that point you might as well build a full sized cab, IMO.
- Intuitive functionality. I want it to be obvious to users how to operate the cabinet. Power on, boot straight to game list, select and exit games at touch of a button, power off.
- Focused gamelist. I do not need to be able to play 5000 games - just the classics and maybe a few lesser-known gems. Arcade only (no console games).
- Focused theme. I want this to look like it's own thing so no marquee that says "Mamecade" or "Arcade Classics" or whatever other generic thing people do.
Expanding on the focused theme, I'm leaning towards calling it "Jack Attack!" because my son's name is Jack. The font for the marquee will be similar to the "Mars Attack!" movie poster.
(https://sallyinthehaven.files.wordpress.com/2015/10/marsattacksbanner.jpg)
The side art and CP art will hopefully match the font - retro style I guess - with some 50s looking UFOs and maybe an alien with a ray gun or something. Not sure yet. I don't have any photoshop or inkscape skills so I'll need to commission someone to do this for me.
The guts of this thing will probably be a Raspberry Pi 3 B+ but I really need to do some research and learn how it works. I am somewhat familiar with Retropie (the basics) but I will need to customize the theme and everything to get it to where I like. I already have a 10" 4:3 monitor that I plan to mount horizontally and the control panel will likely be 6-button set up (because my son like Street Fighter) with a ServoStik joystick. I just don't think I can fit a computer inside or I'd go that route.
After reading a TON of build threads I settled on three projects that inspired mine:
- grippie's Sega Genesis Bartop (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,141069.0/all.html)
- edekoning's NES Bartop (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,133712.0/all.html)
- Vidiot's Centipede Bartop (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,153100.0.html)
I started off using grippie's plans but shrunk them down to 60% (because my monitor is about 60% the size of the one he used) and then added a 1/2" to the bottom, back and top edges to make room for the controls and to make the marquee area bigger so that it could be seen.
Work began on it last week and have the side panels cut and I'm hoping to assemble it this weekend. The final pattern I cut out of cardboard is attached to this post - more pics to follow.
Post by: Mike A on May 30, 2018, 11:22:52 am
-You need it to play a minimum of 10,000 games.
-The name should be "MAMEcade Classic Arcadecade"
-You didn't even mention a steering wheel and light guns.
I hope you at least plan on adding 732 RGB LED buttons.
Post by: javeryh on May 30, 2018, 12:02:24 pm
I must say that I strongly disapprove of this build.
-You need it to play a minimum of 10,000 games.
-The name should be "MAMEcade Classic Arcadecade"
-You didn't even mention a steering wheel and light guns.
I hope you at least plan on adding 732 RGB LED buttons.
I knew I went wrong somewhere... if I widen the bartop by 48" I think I'll be able to get the light guns and steering wheels in there and I'll be able to play TMNT with 3 buddies once every 3 years. Actually, if I go that far I might as well set it up for 6P X-Men! Back to the drawing board...
Post by: javeryh on May 30, 2018, 12:19:10 pm
(https://i.imgur.com/EaO8cbk.jpg)
I thought about it for a while and although I was very happy with the shape, I was not happy with the overall size - still too big - so I shrunk it down and the result was the "Minicade". The "Arcade" design is 65% of grippie's Sega cab (for the most part) and the "Minicade" design is 60%, which I was happy with. I also printed out the CP layout and decided on the interior width of the cab 9-5/8". The monitor I have is 9-1/2" wide (with the case) so it just fits.
(https://i.imgur.com/CJpHy7F.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Kv8IFuW.jpg)
In case anyone looks back on this and wonders what exactly I did to grippie's design here you go. I wanted more surface area for the marquee and some additional room inside to fit everything so I added a little to the back and top of the design.
(https://i.imgur.com/KuO7Fio.jpg)
Post by: krangbrain on May 30, 2018, 12:26:55 pm
Just imagine, a bartop that's actually going to be small enough to fit properly on a... bar top lol. Looking forward to the progress! :)
Post by: Mike A on May 30, 2018, 12:31:00 pm
Post by: Malenko on May 30, 2018, 01:38:27 pm
Post by: javeryh on May 30, 2018, 02:41:22 pm
After getting a profile that I liked with the cardboard, I traced them out onto a sheet of 1/4" MDF so I could make a pattern. Instead of making one side and then copying it, I decided to make the pattern first and copy it twice. If this goes smooth, I can make additional cabs down the road... maybe.
(https://i.imgur.com/C0vqYh2.jpg)
At this point, I still wasn't sold on whether to use the "Arcade" size or the "Minicade" size so I made 2 patterns because why not. Next, using a 2" forstner bit, I cut out some circles for the curved areas.
(https://i.imgur.com/CiOI1aZ.jpg?1)
Next, I cut the rest of the pattern out with my jigsaw staying about 1/8" away from the lines.
(https://i.imgur.com/nIxbmnM.jpg)
Finally, using my router, a pattern bit and a straight edge, I cut everything back to the line and then used some sandpaper and a sanding block to smooth out the hard corners (I just eyeballed this). Before doing this part I made the decision to use the smaller profile.
(https://i.imgur.com/0smwsyI.jpg)
Now that I had a 1/4" pattern, I could make copies out of 3/4" MDF for the sides of the cabinet. :cheers:
Post by: leapinlew on May 30, 2018, 09:23:57 pm
Looks like a good start Javery! It's a little late, but the only consideration I would have for you is to consider where this cabinet is going to live. My 2 bartops never could find a proper home. I ended up building a table for them, and by then, I wished I just made them full size (like a lowboy or cabaret). My defender just hangs out in storage.
Besides the Raspberry Pi, also consider a Pandoras box, or other jamma board. It's hard to beat the simplicity of configuration. I had a PB3, and I didn't love it, but I'd consider a 5 after watching some reviews. For a kid, I'd be worried about improper shut downs and corruption of the SD card (I assume that's still a thing).
Post by: ivwshane on May 30, 2018, 10:56:41 pm
Post by: javeryh on May 31, 2018, 12:41:56 pm
Nice score on the 10" monitor.... that's a good form factor to be working with since you can get lots of tablets in 10" size.
Looks like a good start Javery! It's a little late, but the only consideration I would have for you is to consider where this cabinet is going to live. My 2 bartops never could find a proper home. I ended up building a table for them, and by then, I wished I just made them full size (like a lowboy or cabaret). My defender just hangs out in storage.
Besides the Raspberry Pi, also consider a Pandoras box, or other jamma board. It's hard to beat the simplicity of configuration. I had a PB3, and I didn't love it, but I'd consider a 5 after watching some reviews. For a kid, I'd be worried about improper shut downs and corruption of the SD card (I assume that's still a thing).
Thanks lew. I also like the 10" screen size. I opened it up and the insides were... unexpected. Just a wafer thin panel and a ribbon cable connecting it to the outputs. It is mostly empty inside the plastic shell. I was planning to decase it but now I'm not sure I want to mess with it. I'd lose the easy Vesa mount if I decased it but would have more room inside for stuff. I'm on the fence. The great thing is that it is 4:3 and not 16:9 like most tablets. I hooked up my desktop real quick and Windows looked just fine.
I have thought a little bit about where this thing will live and I think it will be just fine in my son's room on his dresser or something. The footprint of this cabinet is small - probably 8" deep and 10" wide total. It's also only about 15" high so not taking up a lot of space even on a table. I'll get some accurate measurements tonight.
I'm looking forward to this project if your past work is any indication! I can't believe it's almost been ten years since I remembered following your bellas arcade. Your daughter has to be close to graduating now right?
Haha thanks. I can't believe it has been that long either. I built that arcade cab in 2007! She is a teenager and going into 8th grade already. Send help. ;D She still likes to play games and about a month ago she sat down and played through all of Bad Dudes on her cab.
Post by: javeryh on May 31, 2018, 01:12:39 pm
(https://i.imgur.com/DGlsQCh.jpg)
This produced 2 exact copies:
(https://i.imgur.com/hvioi6j.jpg)
After that was finished, I switched bits and routed the slots for the t-molding. Easier to do this now but I could have waited until the cabinet was assembled. Centering the slot cutter was such a pain. I ruined a lot of scrap MDF getting it just right.
(https://i.imgur.com/njwFcmo.jpg)
Next up - cutting the interior panels (8 total pieces that are each 9-5/8" wide). :cheers:
Post by: javeryh on May 31, 2018, 08:12:25 pm
I’m ripping apart a pair of $10 AmazonBasics speakers and I plan to relocate the volume knob to the back panel. I want the ability to control the volume even though I could shift that function. The knob will be out of sight and this needs to be simple to operate.
I have 2 buttons I could use for power. One crappy 1/2” red button that will be fine and one cool looking PC button that has an illuminated blue ring of light. The problem is that no one will see this and I do not want it on the front of the cab where it could get accidentally hit.
So my question- which power button would you use and how would you lay out this panel? The socket could be installed vertically or horizontally and power and volume could be side by side or on top of each other.
Thoughts?
(https://i.imgur.com/i5NWeAi.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/CpseHvw.jpg?1)
Post by: Slippyblade on May 31, 2018, 08:17:15 pm
Post by: javeryh on May 31, 2018, 10:10:07 pm
I'd use the lit button just due to the fact that the other one sticks out and could get bumped accidently. Or just pick up a vandal button separately.
Hmmm... the vandal button looks pretty nice. $7.49 shipped from Amazon so I ordered. I'm probably overdoing it but whatever... I'm a little over $200 into this thing already!
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/518ZnSKw9eL._SX679_.jpg)
Post by: JDFan on May 31, 2018, 10:13:07 pm
Hmmm... the vandal button looks pretty nice. $7.49 shipped from Amazon so I ordered.
Ouch they're only $0.99 shipped from Honk Kong If you don't need it right away ! - https://www.ebay.com/itm/16mm-Anti-Vandal-Momentary-Steel-Metal-Push-Button-Switch-Flat-Top-New/282875701924?epid=28016226143&hash=item41dcb4aaa4:g:Kv0AAOSwpFtaoNvh (https://www.ebay.com/itm/16mm-Anti-Vandal-Momentary-Steel-Metal-Push-Button-Switch-Flat-Top-New/282875701924?epid=28016226143&hash=item41dcb4aaa4:g:Kv0AAOSwpFtaoNvh)
Post by: javeryh on May 31, 2018, 10:22:10 pm
Hmmm... the vandal button looks pretty nice. $7.49 shipped from Amazon so I ordered.
Ouch they're only $0.99 shipped from Honk Kong If you don't need it right away ! - https://www.ebay.com/itm/16mm-Anti-Vandal-Momentary-Steel-Metal-Push-Button-Switch-Flat-Top-New/282875701924?epid=28016226143&hash=item41dcb4aaa4:g:Kv0AAOSwpFtaoNvh (https://www.ebay.com/itm/16mm-Anti-Vandal-Momentary-Steel-Metal-Push-Button-Switch-Flat-Top-New/282875701924?epid=28016226143&hash=item41dcb4aaa4:g:Kv0AAOSwpFtaoNvh)
Gah! Oh well - I don't really care but the $7 savings would have been nice! Mine is set to arrive Saturday, which is perfect because I plan to work on this thing over the weekend. :cheers:
Post by: Drnick on June 01, 2018, 02:49:16 am
Post by: javeryh on June 01, 2018, 09:21:25 am
Good choice on the vandal switch :) As for the panel, I would mount it horizontally, have power socket one end, volume in middle and vandal switch at the other.
A horizontal mount for the socket seems good but that means the plug is sideways... not that it matters. I'm leaning that way. I'm going to keep the power button and volume knob to the side because I want them to be easily reachable. If I put something in the middle it could be a pain to use.
I might go with on/off on the left and both the power socket and volume knob to the right. This way there is no way to accidentally turn off the cab when you just want to change the volume. I'm still playing with it.
Post by: Mike A on June 01, 2018, 09:24:03 am
Post by: javeryh on June 01, 2018, 09:52:37 am
Put the volume knob and power button on the top near the back.
Good idea. Power for sure since it is flush with the top panel. The volume knob will stick out and annoy me but this will free up room on the rear panel for volume on the left and power socket on the right. Problem solved... I think.
Post by: lomoverde on June 01, 2018, 12:44:43 pm
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Pcs-10x9mm-4-Pin-Momentary-Blue-Light-Volume-Control-Tactile-Switch/152570745870?epid=26012042575&hash=item2385ecd40e:g:N0UAAOSwcgNZMY5W (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Pcs-10x9mm-4-Pin-Momentary-Blue-Light-Volume-Control-Tactile-Switch/152570745870?epid=26012042575&hash=item2385ecd40e:g:N0UAAOSwcgNZMY5W)
Post by: javeryh on June 01, 2018, 12:55:19 pm
is it possible to wire these to the top for volume control?
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Pcs-10x9mm-4-Pin-Momentary-Blue-Light-Volume-Control-Tactile-Switch/152570745870?epid=26012042575&hash=item2385ecd40e:g:N0UAAOSwcgNZMY5W (https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/2-Pcs-10x9mm-4-Pin-Momentary-Blue-Light-Volume-Control-Tactile-Switch/152570745870?epid=26012042575&hash=item2385ecd40e:g:N0UAAOSwcgNZMY5W)
I suppose I could do something like that but the volume knob is just the easiest thing for me to do (famous last words). I'd also want the buttons to be black so they do not stand out. I think I've got it sorted but I'm going to make a test panel tonight or tomorrow morning if time permits. :cheers:
Post by: javeryh on June 01, 2018, 01:04:18 pm
Anyway, the first thing I did was set my square to 3/4" and then ran it around the inside edge to give me the exact line where the wood strips will go. The 3/4" accounts for a 1/4" reveal plus the thickness of the wood dowel (1/2" x 1/2"). I used spring clamps to hold each piece in place and then drilled a 1/8" hole freehand with my drill (using a piece of tape on the drill bit so I knew how far down to go). I do not own a drill press so it's not perfect but it's passable.
(https://i.imgur.com/qFACfOm.jpg?1)
The only angles I cut in the wood dowels were on the front of the CP. I need this to be as precise as possible. The rest of the pieces will be hidden so I didn't need to be as exact - just had to be sure they were all lined up. I also made sure that the wood strips for the top panel and the speaker panel did not go to the edge. That would screw up the lighting for the marquee down the road so I came 1-1/8" short of the front edge... for no reason other than this seemed like enough room.
Here is a shot of both sides completed with the screws in:
(https://i.imgur.com/FDTVijI.jpg)
Close-up of CP area:
(https://i.imgur.com/JM8nWgF.jpg)
With this taken care of I could start cutting the cross pieces and instead of measuring I could actually place the piece of MDF and mark off the length for a more precise cut. One thing I'm not 100% sure of is how I'm going to hold the monitor glass in place. I've seen some creative solutions by others but I haven't settled on anything yet. The only reason I mention this is because the wood dowel marked "speaker" may need to be shortened if I plan to tuck the glass behind that panel.
:cheers:
Post by: leapinlew on June 01, 2018, 05:42:20 pm
Post by: javeryh on June 01, 2018, 06:18:32 pm
Servo-joystick and all the gear going to fit in there?
LOL not sure yet.
I'll make it fit... I can always cut a hole in the base panel under the stick if I need an extra ~5/8"
Edit: here’s a pic... I think it will work. There’s about 1/4” clearance as is.
(https://i.imgur.com/rHdBkHD.jpg?1)
Buttons may need to be 1/2”-1” closer to the stick than optimal but not sure yet.
Post by: Vidiot on June 02, 2018, 09:08:50 am
Post by: javeryh on June 02, 2018, 04:12:05 pm
Looking great so far. Definitely watching this one. I don't like big bartops.
Thanks a lot. Your Centipede cabinet definitely pushed me over the edge to make this one. Really great work - I've been studying your pics and YouTube video trying to pick up some pointers. If you are around when I get to it I'd love to pick your brain on how to get a custom layout set up with the Raspberry Pi. The way your cab boots up is exactly what I'm trying to achieve. :cheers:
Post by: javeryh on June 02, 2018, 11:28:09 pm
I started with the top panel above the marquee and the panel on the top rear of the cabinet. Measuring the length was easy but these panels meet at an angle and that took me a few tries to get just right on the saw. The top panel also gets the power button (thanks Mike A - more on this later) and the top rear panel is gets three 2" holes for ventilation. I used forstner bits for all of the holes.
(https://i.imgur.com/XmhdRgL.jpg)
I must have measured and cut this angle 3 different times to get it just right - the angles on each piece are identical so once I figured it out it lined up perfectly. To glue the panels together I just used my hands and a lot of patience. I held the panels in place for about 30 minutes making small adjustments as needed and using my fingers to make sure all edges were flush. I was a little nervous but it worked. I tried clamping initially but the pieces wanted to shear away from each other when I tried to tighten things up (even with a jig I tried making). I'll sand the excess glue away before painting.
(https://i.imgur.com/FHlX6Y2.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/IdF5M7W.jpg)
Everything was going smooth until I went to drill out the hole for the button. The package said a 3/4" hole would be sufficient so that's what I did.... except when I went to install the button I realized it was not long enough for the fastener to catch! I needed to drill a larger hole on the inside but only go about half way through the MDF but without a center point this is difficult to do accurately. I ended up cutting a piece of wood to fill the hole the best I could, found the center point of that and then drilled the hole.
(https://i.imgur.com/BI62U4T.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/AXv9zM8.jpg)
Success!
(https://i.imgur.com/KVQSvZz.jpg)
It has just enough clearance on the inside too. I chose the left side of the cabinet to match where I'm going to put the power socket on the rear bottom panel but I guess it could have gone anywhere. The location is perfect - easy to access but out of the way of everything else.
(https://i.imgur.com/UiUG61v.jpg)
I really like the look of this button so it was worth the extra $7 to me. This panel will eventually be painted black so the button will blend right in.
Post by: javeryh on June 03, 2018, 11:56:16 am
(https://i.imgur.com/rM26qyI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/rfxoTMW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KBLIaxK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/e4rr9gT.jpg)
I’m pretty happy with the overall look and the size. The proportions seem good too. I just hope I can cram everything inside!
Post by: Mike A on June 03, 2018, 12:17:50 pm
Post by: Malenko on June 03, 2018, 12:58:22 pm
Post by: Vidiot on June 03, 2018, 01:16:40 pm
Looking great so far. Definitely watching this one. I don't like big bartops.
Thanks a lot. Your Centipede cabinet definitely pushed me over the edge to make this one. Really great work - I've been studying your pics and YouTube video trying to pick up some pointers. If you are around when I get to it I'd love to pick your brain on how to get a custom layout set up with the Raspberry Pi. The way your cab boots up is exactly what I'm trying to achieve. :cheers:
Thanks man. I'll help any way I can. Might take me a bit to remember some things but I will help however I can. I love how this is coming together. Such a great little size and a great shape on this!
Post by: javeryh on June 03, 2018, 07:07:47 pm
Cab looks good. Stop drinking Monster. It is poison.
Thanks - I wish I could stop drinking Monster but I need my caffeine fix. I don't drink coffee or soda or tea. Basically water and Monster (1 a day when I get to my desk).
I really like that form factor, looking really good!
Thanks! I do like the size - it has a very small footprint so it doesn't take up much room on a desk (approximately 11" wide x 10" deep x 15" tall). I think it will also be very easy to move it around.
Looking great so far. Definitely watching this one. I don't like big bartops.
Thanks a lot. Your Centipede cabinet definitely pushed me over the edge to make this one. Really great work - I've been studying your pics and YouTube video trying to pick up some pointers. If you are around when I get to it I'd love to pick your brain on how to get a custom layout set up with the Raspberry Pi. The way your cab boots up is exactly what I'm trying to achieve. :cheers:
Thanks man. I'll help any way I can. Might take me a bit to remember some things but I will help however I can. I love how this is coming together. Such a great little size and a great shape on this!
Thanks a lot - I haven't thought about the electronics that much yet and I suspect that is where I'll have my biggest hangups. I haven't messed around with RetroPie other than putting an image on an SD card and loading it up. Seems easy enough but I'm going to need to dig down in the weeds a bit to remove the boot sequence, add a custom splash screen and then boot straight to the game list... and also have a custom layout. I have a ton to learn.
I worked on the cab a bunch today but it doesn't look like I really did anything. Each step takes 3 times as long as I think it should.
I spent a long time ripping apart the Amazon Basics speakers I bought. What a pain. I had to crack open the cases and try to remove the speakers except they were basically impossible to take apart. I ended up using a saw and a mitre box to cut the plastic in a square shape around the speakers and then I drilled 1/8" holes in the corners so I can mount them later. They would not come apart from the plastic casing.
(https://i.imgur.com/FQFRCpD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yAI1F4q.jpg)
I also cut out the rear bottom panel for the power socket and volume knob. The volume knob is going to take some creativity. I need to somehow extend the pot to fit through the 1/2" MDF and mount the PCB on the other side. Not sure how to solve that yet.
(https://i.imgur.com/1N4rtsV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/MueuPaV.jpg)
I cut out the speaker panel for underneath the marquee and the corresponding holes. It's going to be a tight fit up there with the marquee light.
(https://i.imgur.com/JPjRAUd.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TGczeNa.jpg)
I found some sweet desk grommets at Home Depot that exactly fit the 1-1/2" ventilation holes on the rear of the cab. Finishes them off nice. I saw grippie rounded over the edges of those openings but I have some plans on the finish that would make that the wrong move for me. Still thinking...
(https://i.imgur.com/aRRygra.jpg)
I also drilled all the holes in the wood bracing so the cabinet is solid (no glue yet). The only things left to do for construction is to make the control panel and get the back door working. I've got a cam lock and I bought some magnetic catches but not really sure what to do yet. Hinge? Removable panel? Still thinking...
Post by: Vidiot on June 03, 2018, 07:59:27 pm
I also cut out the rear bottom panel for the power socket and volume knob. The volume knob is going to take some creativity. I need to somehow extend the pot to fit through the 1/2" MDF and mount the PCB on the other side. Not sure how to solve that yet.
Here is how I solved that problem in the past. I make a plastic plate out of a 5 1/4" computer case bay blank or cut from a sheet of ABS plastic you can buy from eBay. I cut out a rectangle hole on the back of the cabinet then use a router to recess an area around the inside side of the hole for the plastic to mount into and hot glue it in place. It makes a nice clean look for the stuff on the back of the cabinet. Here is a diagram showing what I am trying to explain:
(http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt301/vidi0t/Forum%20files/Image11_zpsjkyd5mbz.jpg) (http://s622.photobucket.com/user/vidi0t/media/Forum%20files/Image11_zpsjkyd5mbz.jpg.html)
Here is what it looks like on my Centipede bartop:
(http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt301/vidi0t/Forum%20files/arcade%20forums/IMG_2762_zpsremsymcq.jpg) (http://s622.photobucket.com/user/vidi0t/media/Forum%20files/arcade%20forums/IMG_2762_zpsremsymcq.jpg.html)
This is my Arcade Classics bartop. It has a lot of stuff mounted to the plastic plate:
(http://i622.photobucket.com/albums/tt301/vidi0t/Forum%20files/arcade%20forums/db0ce277.jpg) (http://s622.photobucket.com/user/vidi0t/media/Forum%20files/arcade%20forums/db0ce277.jpg.html)
Post by: Malenko on June 04, 2018, 08:39:21 am
Here is what it looks like on my Centipede bartop:That looks lean and clean, nice work.
Post by: javeryh on June 04, 2018, 09:54:13 am
Here is what it looks like on my Centipede bartop:That looks lean and clean, nice work.
yeah - I'm definitely stealing this. Should be easy to route out behind the knob and pop in some ABS plastic (I should have some laying around from other projects) I may just use the 3/4" opening I already drilled. The round knob that came with the AmazonBasics speakers fits through there with about 1/8" to spare all the way around. Behind the panel will be a mess because I will have to route out a large section for the PCB but whatever. No one will ever see... except you guys and everyone else who wants me to open it up. :cheers:
Post by: javeryh on June 05, 2018, 07:37:53 pm
Marked out hole locations after cutting to size:
(https://i.imgur.com/w8pEIQK.jpg)
Holes are drilled:
(https://i.imgur.com/ZA6AgKb.jpg)
Yeah not a lot but I’m trying to accomplish something every day that I can to push this along.
More later...
Post by: leapinlew on June 06, 2018, 02:02:00 am
Post by: javeryh on June 06, 2018, 01:43:17 pm
Javery - did you use1/2” mdf for the upper and lower marquee? If not, will there be an issue with the difference in size of the marquee retainers and mdf?
I did use 1/2" MDF for the top and speaker panels but even so the aluminum bracket doesn't cover it entirely so I'll need to remove some material towards the front otherwise it will create a shadow with the light coming for the marquee. I'm either going to sand it down or try a severe angle o the chop saw. Either should work as I only need to remove about 1/16".
Post by: lomoverde on June 06, 2018, 02:52:26 pm
Couldnt be easier to install a custom splashscreen for boot up.Theres a setting in the menus to boot into any chosen system.And kid mode now works great,it has a set combination of button and joystick moves to exit it.Also you can set the screensaver to play random snaps when its laying idle.you will maybe even find a pre made theme your happy with.
Post by: javeryh on June 06, 2018, 07:43:40 pm
When you get around to the software side of things you should definately check out motion blue 6.
Couldnt be easier to install a custom splashscreen for boot up.Theres a setting in the menus to boot into any chosen system.And kid mode now works great,it has a set combination of button and joystick moves to exit it.Also you can set the screensaver to play random snaps when its laying idle.you will maybe even find a pre made theme your happy with.
Thanks - I will definitely take a look. I’m going for bare bones. 1 gamelist with everything integrated. Splash screen and kid friendly controls.
Post by: javeryh on June 06, 2018, 08:00:45 pm
I traced the PCB with the volume knob in the 3/4” hole I cut and then routed out the back of the panel leaving about 3/16”.
(https://i.imgur.com/taJ2FoC.jpg)
Then I cut a scrap of ABS plastic and drilled out a 1/4” hole in the middle using my step bit. That thing works great - produces a nice clean hole.
(https://i.imgur.com/oih727d.jpg)
Here is the result - looks good and the volume knob will be easily accessible and fully operational.
(https://i.imgur.com/rt55DMI.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/TEH86kZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/c8tvpzr.jpg)
I am not gluing any pieces in place until after I paint but for now this panel is 100% complete. I really want to get this thing painted but I have a bit more work to do on some of the panels:
- The top panel needs the edge removed like the speaker panel
- I need to figure out the back door. I have some magnets and a cam lock but I'm now thinking a piano hinge is the way to go with the cam lock up top to hold it in place.
- I need to make the control panel (the top and front piece). I don't need to cut the button holes but I do need to figure out how to attach it to the cabinet and allow access.
I'm getting there. Once I get paint on it should move fast. I'm also starting to think about the art - I want to get that right. I know what I want in my head but I hope I can find someone to bring it to life...
Post by: javeryh on June 07, 2018, 12:21:47 pm
I completed the speaker panel. Not a huge deal but good to cross off the list. I drilled out the holes for the 2 speakers (1.75"), drilled the holes to mount the speakers and shaved off the front of the panel for the marquee retainer. Hopefully this is enough to not create a shadow on the marquee.
(https://i.imgur.com/wkbOWjs.jpg)
Here is a close-up of how the marquee retainer will sit. Assuming the entire area behind the marquee will be lit, the retainer will be where the cut off is for what is viewable instead of the top of the MDF speaker panel, which I think would create a 1/8" strip of the marquee that would not be lit but would be viewable and would look weird. I'll have to do the same thing to the top panel as well.
(https://i.imgur.com/41pKbFu.jpg)
Here is a close-up of one side of the speaker panel with the speaker installed. Two screws seems to be holding it in place nicely so I will probably go with that. I have a slight concern about the metal screw somehow interfering with the sound coming out of the speaker so the less the better. I'm probably worried for no reason.
(https://i.imgur.com/aPoy1bU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/UuiStER.jpg)
Here is the "final" panel with the speakers installed. Pretty tight fit but it works.
(https://i.imgur.com/tqfkosV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1ndiuHD.jpg)
I ordered some 1.75" speaker grilles off of eBay from China for like $4 to eventually use on the face of the panel once everything is assembled. I'm open to other ideas though.
:cheers:
Post by: Malenko on June 07, 2018, 01:08:27 pm
Post by: javeryh on June 07, 2018, 05:03:09 pm
Id paint that beveled edge white to help with the light bouncing off it. Those screws shouldnt impact sound at all.
Good idea. Maybe a little tin foil there would help too. I am going to prime the entire thing inside and out so it will be white... :cheers:
Post by: rave0035 on June 07, 2018, 09:17:52 pm
The paper cone is the part that moves and makes sound, not the bracket.
Mike
Post by: javeryh on June 08, 2018, 10:24:42 am
The fewer screws you use the worse they will sound. 2 is enough; 4 is right.
The paper cone is the part that moves and makes sound, not the bracket.
Mike
Great. I'll use 4 screws to hold them down. Thanks.
Last night I cut the panels for the control panel. I'm really not sure what to do about holding the monitor glass in place (will be 1/8" tempered gray glass) so I made the CP a little long just in case. Also, the front angle is NOT 90 degrees even though it should have been... turns out it is 95 degrees so I had to cut both panels at that angle to get it to line up. Rounding over the front edge should be interesting too...
(https://i.imgur.com/kGl0GQ8.jpg)
So now comes the time when I need to figure out where all of the buttons go. I am definitely going with a 6 button SF setup on the top - the problem I'm having is where to place the admin buttons (and what admin buttons to use). Here's what I'm thinking:
- P1 Start - 100% must have dedicated button
- P2 Start - 95% must have dedicated button. This is a 1 player cab but if I recall correctly, a lot of classics require you to press P2 Start once you drop in $0.50 to make it a 2 player game. Otherwise head to head games will be played with a bluetooth controller... which will have its own P2 Start button. I imagine this will be a 1P cab most of the time but I'd like to have the ability for 2P games.
- Coin - 100% must have dedicated button.
- Exit - 75% must have dedicated button (I thought about making it so P1+P2 Start = Exit but worried this will be too confusing). Simplicity is #1 goal of this cabinet (along with playability, design and form factor heh).
- Pause - would be nice to have
As for location, I'm thinking about along the front panel of the CP or possibly creating an admin panel above the CP but below the monitor. I have to check on the amount of room I have there but that might be the cleanest solution. Buttons on the front make me think hey will accidentally get pressed...
I'd love some feedback on this :cheers:
Post by: Arroyo on June 08, 2018, 11:29:58 am
- Exit - 75% must have dedicated button (I thought about making it so P1+P2 Start = Exit but worried this will be too confusing). Simplicity is #1 goal of this cabinet (along with playability, design and form factor heh).
- Pause - would be nice to have
In RocketLauncher you can make one button have multiple functions. Personally I like the idea of holding down a button for a certain specified time (I’m going with 3 seconds) on exit so there aren’t any accidents. You can press the button once or multiple times to get different functions (pause maybe). Might slightly confuse a user but if it’s labeled..... :dunno
Great build, looking forward to the updates.
Post by: firedance on June 08, 2018, 11:51:24 am
Post by: javeryh on June 09, 2018, 10:24:53 am
- Exit - 75% must have dedicated button (I thought about making it so P1+P2 Start = Exit but worried this will be too confusing). Simplicity is #1 goal of this cabinet (along with playability, design and form factor heh).
- Pause - would be nice to have
In RocketLauncher you can make one button have multiple functions. Personally I like the idea of holding down a button for a certain specified time (I’m going with 3 seconds) on exit so there aren’t any accidents. You can press the button once or multiple times to get different functions (pause maybe). Might slightly confuse a user but if it’s labeled..... :dunno
Great build, looking forward to the updates.
I had no idea you could set it up so a timed button press did something. That is super cool and may be a way to combine Pause and Exit (tap for Pause; hold for Exit). I’m still kicking this around in my head.
I just got my Seimitsu buttons from Focus Attack and I hope to mock up the CP soon (getting crushed with kid activities this weekend). I’m leaning towards a separate panel below the monitor for all the admin stuff (except Coin, which will be dead center on the front of the CP and flush) but not sure there is enough room since I didn’t originally plan for it. It would be nice to also route a slot to hold the monitor glass in the same panel if it can all fit. I have some nice 24mm buttons for admin but even those might be too big...
Post by: Arroyo on June 09, 2018, 11:38:11 am
I had no idea you could set it up so a timed button press did something. That is super cool and may be a way to combine Pause and Exit (tap for Pause; hold for Exit). I’m still kicking this around in my head.
Here's a screen shot for reference:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=368417;image)
For some reason a single tap for Pause screws up the hold function for Exit on my machine (haven't had a chance to look into this). But for now the quick fix is a double tap for Pause and a (in my case) 3 second hold for exit. I like the idea that someone can't Exit accidentally and you minimize the number of buttons.
Post by: lomoverde on June 09, 2018, 05:17:12 pm
Although pause is cheating.
Post by: javeryh on June 11, 2018, 09:29:28 pm
Here's a screen shot for reference:
For some reason a single tap for Pause screws up the hold function for Exit on my machine (haven't had a chance to look into this). But for now the quick fix is a double tap for Pause and a (in my case) 3 second hold for exit. I like the idea that someone can't Exit accidentally and you minimize the number of buttons.
Thanks. I'll look into this. I've been experimenting but not sure about the solution yet.
If your keeping it simple for your son,motion blue can run with 1 hot key and 2 coin buttons if your 2 player.hot key and coin 1 to exit game,and hot key and you decide to pause.Retroarch anyway.
Although pause is cheating.
Thanks but I do not want any hot keys on this cabinet. Too confusing believe it or not! Pause may be cheating but I think I have to have it the more I think about it. My house is chaos 99% of the time and I'm sure he will get interrupted while playing more often than not. Pause would save a lot of headaches and "5 more minutes mom - I can't pause it!" ;D
______________________
I have been thinking about the admin buttons and trying to come up with an elegant solution and I think I'm onto something. There may be just enough space below the monitor and above the control panel to have an admin panel. The way I've laid it out (if you can't see) is EXIT isolated to the far left (no accidental presses) and then P1 START, P2 START and PAUSE all in a row on the other side.
(https://i.imgur.com/FqcXmxE.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RAulFkZ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/YZmwqSN.jpg)
I was thinking about putting the COIN button in the front of the Control Panel dead center. To avoid accidental taps (not that it really matters) I dug out some old flush buttons to see if one would work. This has a very thin bezel that the actual button is completely flush with. It's pretty cool (you can even light it up if you want). I like this idea in theory but I'm afraid the button looks out of place compared to the other smaller admin buttons (never mind the fact that the button bezel is black). It is also probably located out of place all by itself on the front of the Control Panel... There may be room on the Admin Panel for another 24mm button though next to P1 START.
(https://i.imgur.com/OVOCTSj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Odwrvgl.jpg)
So now I'm thinking I could:
(1) make the PAUSE button shown above the COIN button and relocate PAUSE to the front of the Control Panel but maybe all the way to the right or left?
Or
(2) take a button away from the group of 3 and only have P1 and P2 START on the Admin Panel to the right and then have 2 more buttons for PAUSE and COIN on the front of the Control Panel (centered? One to each side to line up with the EXIT and P2 START buttons on the admin panel?). If PAUSE or COIN get hit by mistake I don't think it really matters so they are probably safe on the front of the Control Panel so this might work.
I'm still thinking about it but I think there is a solution here...
Post by: javeryh on June 12, 2018, 09:55:53 am
#1
This puts all 5 admin buttons in one spot above the CP and below the monitor leaving the front of the CP blank. EXIT is isolated, but I worry that there is too much going on here.
(https://i.imgur.com/pcXJesx.jpg?1)
#2
This layout would align EXIT and PAUSE and align P2 and COIN (each set 1/2" in from edge on the admin panel and front of the CP). This layout is nice in that you aren't really going to be accidentally pressing any buttons but I'm not sure what to think about a solitary button in 3 out of the 4 "corners". It's not bad though.
(https://i.imgur.com/VUpSKg3.jpg?1)
#3
This layout has COIN and PAUSE on the front of the CP - I could space these any way I want (a button width apart?) but they would be generally centered. I kind of like this one too and it's not like it matters if you hit COIN while reaching to PAUSE while playing (although it may be a slightly bigger deal the other way around).
(https://i.imgur.com/sv4iAo5.jpg?1)
#4
This layout has COIN and PAUSE lined up to the right with P1 START and P2 START. This is the most uniform layout (I think) and still isolates EXIT nicely. The same issue with #3 is present here (pressing COIN or PAUSE when you mean to hit the other). This one is pleasing to the eye as well.
(https://i.imgur.com/nWP8GoG.jpg?1)
I'm leaning towards #3 or #4... I think. Thoughts? :cheers:
Post by: javeryh on June 12, 2018, 03:40:55 pm
#5
(https://i.imgur.com/MTV7u2I.jpg?1)
COIN in the middle of the front CP panel and everything else up top.
#6
(https://i.imgur.com/6W63iS3.jpg?1)
No bezel and everything on the front of the CP.
I think #4 is out. Too weighted to one side. #6 seems too busy on the front of the CP but I do like #5. So now I think it is between #3 and #5.
Post by: Drnick on June 12, 2018, 07:53:45 pm
Or even better swap the 2 around, so exit and pause under monitor and rest on front of control panel almost guaranteed not to press exit by accident then :)
Would look sweet with a credit reject as the coin up :) Not sure if would fit though.
Post by: javeryh on June 12, 2018, 08:06:39 pm
#7
(https://i.imgur.com/pubr3t3.jpg?1)
I'm also thinking of ditching the bottom button altogether... for aesthetics. I guess I could shift PAUSE to "Down+ COIN" as was suggested. This would keep the front of the CP clean... but I really want a PAUSE button because I think my son will need it.
Post by: Drnick on June 13, 2018, 10:50:14 am
Post by: javeryh on June 13, 2018, 12:45:13 pm
My vote is still with a coin reject button for coin up on the front, Tell me if it won't fit and I'll drop the matter >:D
Not a bad idea. It would be neat to get something to work - doesn't have to match the other buttons - and then maybe the lone button wouldn't look so out of place. I'll have to think about this - should be easy enough to add any time in the build process if I choose to do so (assuming it fits, of course).
___________________
Last night I made the Admin Panel with the 4 button symmetrical layout:
(https://i.imgur.com/Xrd5UCL.jpg)
It came out nice - I'm trying to figure out how to mount this to the cabinet and also incorporate the monitor glass directly above it somehow. I may end up rounding over the top (or making a 45 degree angle) that will touch the glass and glue a couple of strips of 1/8" hardboard to the back to make a channel so the monitor will have somewhere to rest. Adding the Admin Panel also means that the monitor glass will sit 1/2" into the cabinet body instead of 1/4" like all of the other panels all the way around. If I offset the Admin Panel by 1/4" and the monitor glass is going to sit flush behind it, since the Admin Panel is 1/4" that will mean the glass is 1/2" from the edge. Like this:
(https://i.imgur.com/T6bbNiD.png)
Still kicking this around.
The other thing I did last night was lay out the Control Panel. I didn't drill any holes yet and I was sweating this out because I wasn't 100% sure everything would fit. It does - barely. The joystick I'm using is a ServoStik so there is a pretty large footprint with the motor attached to the side. I only have to move the joystick 1/2" closer to the buttons than it would normally be if I had all the space I wanted, which is great. Virtually no compromise there.
(https://i.imgur.com/sF97jbe.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/tup4Sln.jpg)
Looking at this now, I have to raise everything by about 1/2" because the bottom of the motor may hit the front panel of the Control Panel where it is shown now. Also, I'm not sure if you can tell but there is a line at the top of the Control Panel with some "x"s above it - this material needs to be removed so it will actually end up a little smaller than what is shown. I made the panel long for now because that cut will be at the angle the Control Panel meets the admin panel and I' have to make some test cuts first.
I am planning on mounting the joystick underneath the panel and NOT routing out any material. The panel is only 1/2" so I think this will be fine.
It's coming together... slowly. I really want to get going on the artwork but I need to know the exact measurements of each panel before trying to get something made. Also, with the "new" Admin panel, I may need some artwork for that as well. I'm at a bit of a loss since I don't know how to use Photoshop or any digital art program. I'll probably end up commissioning someone at DeviantArt to make something for me.
Post by: javeryh on June 14, 2018, 06:39:47 pm
It seems like I get about 10 minutes worth of work done even though I spend an hour each night after work. :banghead:
Post by: DaOld Man on June 14, 2018, 10:42:47 pm
I hear you about 1 hour = 10 minutes of work. been there. Hang in there buddy, if you get in a hurry you are more likely to mess up, trust me I know. LOL
Post by: firedance on June 15, 2018, 12:13:00 am
i made mistake on a 2 player bartop where player one was too far left so the players fingers were over the side on the joystick, redid the panel and moved the controls 50mm inwards.
Post by: DaOld Man on June 15, 2018, 01:03:20 pm
The fewer screws you use the worse they will sound. 2 is enough; 4 is right.
The paper cone is the part that moves and makes sound, not the bracket.
Mike
Just cause I have a project with similar speaker mounting method: Why do they sound better with 4 screws per speaker VS 2 screws?
Post by: javeryh on June 15, 2018, 02:28:10 pm
Looking good there Jav!
I hear you about 1 hour = 10 minutes of work. been there. Hang in there buddy, if you get in a hurry you are more likely to mess up, trust me I know. LOL
yeah - my life is crazy busy all the time because of the kids and all the activities. Plus, I don't have a proper workspace. It takes me 20 minutes just to get the tools out and set up! Summer should hopefully slow down a little bit. In my head I keep thinking I'm almost finished and then when I sit down and stare at it I realize there are a million little things to do and figure out. It's all good though - this is supposed to be fun!
looking at the control panel there doesn't seem to be much room to rest your palm to play comfortably, is it too late or even possible to move the buttons and joystick further up the panel ???
i made mistake on a 2 player bartop where player one was too far left so the players fingers were over the side on the joystick, redid the panel and moved the controls 50mm inwards.
I already moved everything "up" by 1/2", which I think is as far as I can go. The CP pictured actually needed to be trimmed by about 1" at the top in order to fit. That cut was on an angle so I purposely left it long while I laid everything out. It feels comfortable to me even with my giant hands but I guess I won't really know until it is too late. ;D
Post by: firedance on June 15, 2018, 05:09:16 pm
Post by: rave0035 on June 15, 2018, 10:48:11 pm
Just cause I have a project with similar speaker mounting method: Why do they sound better with 4 screws per speaker VS 2 screws?
That big round magnet on the back of the speaker? It pushes and pulls the paper cone in and out thousands of times per second with the AC audio signal.
2 screws might be enough, but the point is that the more secure you can make the bracket, the better the speaker will perform. It probably won't matter with drivers of this size, but if it's no big deal -- why not sink a few more screws?
Mike
Post by: DaOld Man on June 16, 2018, 08:14:06 am
That big round magnet on the back of the speaker? It pushes and pulls the paper cone in and out thousands of times per second with the AC audio signal.
2 screws might be enough, but the point is that the more secure you can make the bracket, the better the speaker will perform. It probably won't matter with drivers of this size, but if it's no big deal -- why not sink a few more screws?
Mike
So is it the frame is more likely to vibrate with 2 instead of 4? Or is there danger of just the two working loose?
Post by: lomoverde on June 16, 2018, 04:45:35 pm
Post by: javeryh on June 17, 2018, 09:39:06 am
Im still curious what software and hardware is going to run inside this.Looks a really nice build,but i wonder how you could possibly have anything running rocketlauncher squashed inside.I honestly think before planning out button placement,you should look into software youll be using,and how it could impact your button choice.
I'm most likely going to be using a Raspberry Pi 3B+ inside running RetroPie. The plan is to customize the layout to only run arcade games. I want to be able to play some fighting games (SF, MK, etc.) so that is what is guiding the button layout. I have never even heard of RocketLauncher but I'm not 100% sold yet on any set up and I'm willing to learn. I would like to use a computer and Windows XP running MAME and MaLa because that is what I'm most familiar with but there isn't enough room.
Post by: javeryh on June 17, 2018, 04:34:18 pm
Other than the CP, all construction should be finished today so I can start thinking about prime/paint. :cheers:
Post by: javeryh on June 18, 2018, 10:14:05 am
I got the rear panel installation finished yesterday and I'm pretty happy with how it came out all things considered. I mortised the hinges trying to get a tight fit and I did even though there is still a slight gap... but after thinking about it, the gap is unavoidable. Now of course I'm worried that the paint job will add a layer of thickness that will screw things up. This is how my stupid brain works.
I used my router to make the cuts and a chisel to clean things up to the edges to get a clean line. Chiseling MDF is not fun. I also don't have a vice and I had to clamp the panels to the side of my work bench. Even still the router wasn't perfect because at the edges there wasn't anything to support the router base so the cuts got a little wonky. It's all good in the end though.
I laid the hinges out to line up exactly with the volume knob and power socket on the lower panel. Just thought it would look nice.
(https://i.imgur.com/DZUspBN.jpg?1)
Once I figured out where I wanted them to go, I used the hinges to actually draw the pencil lines.
(https://i.imgur.com/TPuGpgP.jpg)
Here's where you can see the routed out edges. Not my neatest job but nothing you will see on the finished product. You can also see the clamping nightmare I'm dealing with just to set this up. Getting the 2 panels flush and clamped to the edge of my work bench took WAY longer than it should have taken. A third arm would have come in handy...
(https://i.imgur.com/5DJn6eh.jpg?1)
And here's a close up so you can see the true ugliness of this effort. I was sweating more than I should have been in the 95 degree heat because I thought I ruined the panels and redoing it all was going to set me back a week.
(https://i.imgur.com/E0QaICM.jpg)
I put it all together, including the cabinet lock, to see how it would look and it's not 1/2 bad! Nice placement on the hinges and barely any gap! Once this is painted black no one will notice (I hope) and also it's the back of the cab so um... yeah. Don't look back there!
(https://i.imgur.com/zIr4xYV.jpg?1)
With the rear panel open, there is plenty of room to get in there if I have to. I need to figure out a "stop" for the door though. The lock allows the door to be pulled out about 1/8" and not sit flush. I bought a magnet so I'll probably install that in the top left or right corner of the door panel so the door can catch onto something.
(https://i.imgur.com/Sf8CEQH.jpg?1)
Apologies for the potato quality pics. I took them quickly because the dog started eating my daughter's new sandals and there was yelling involved so I got distracted. I'll try to take some more pics tonight.
:cheers:
Post by: barrymossel on June 18, 2018, 11:04:41 am
Post by: Vidiot on June 18, 2018, 11:06:03 am
Post by: javeryh on June 18, 2018, 12:12:46 pm
Look pretty nice to me!
Looks like you're making some great progress. :applaud:
Thanks guys! It is coming out nice but going much slower than I had hoped. My son's birthday is in 2 weeks and there is basically no way I'll finish in time. It's OK though - he's getting a cell phone for his birthday (send help!) so this is just icing on the cake.
Before painting, I still have to:
- Make one more cut on the top panel so that the marquee light won't create a shadow (exactly the same thing I did to the speaker panel under the marquee).
- Round over the control panel. I have a 1/4" roundover bit that I did some tests on and I think it might be too big of a curve - 1/8" would probably be better. I could also sand, but then I worry about making it even enough so the CP artwork can roll over the edge without making bubbles. I'm not totally sure what to do and I'd rather not buy another router bit for one cut if I can avoid it.
- Cut 2 of the speaker panel battons so that the monitor glass will be able to slide up behind the panel and be held in place. I made these a little long initially.
Still thinking about all of this but I really want to be ready for primer on Wednesday... I am going to paint BEFORE gluing everything up so that everything goes on smooth. The plan is to use Duratex on the back and top panels to give it a durable textured finish. I used this stuff on a bunch of speakers I made last summer and loved the way they came out. The other visible parts of the cabinet (sides, CP and admin panel) will be covered by artwork so I'm only going to prime and sand.
:cheers:
Post by: Vidiot on June 18, 2018, 12:33:25 pm
Post by: javeryh on June 19, 2018, 10:41:21 am
I would use the 1/4" round over router bit. Can't wait to see this finished but don't rush it too much. You'll be glad you were patient and took your time. ;)
I caved and bought an $8 1/8" roundover bit. ;D I figured in the grand scheme of things I'd be happier spending the $8 to do it the way I want. The corners of the side panels are closer to 1/8" because I just sanded them down myself until they were round but I didn't remove that much material. This should make the CP curve match a little better... I hope.
___________________
I took a few more pics of the cabinet in its current state and am starting to have some concerns about the placement of the admin panel in relation to the joystick and action buttons as explained in the video. I am not good at making videos but I like watching other people's so I figure something is better than nothing!
Here's a front shot of where things stand currently. You can see the very top panel still needs to be beveled to match the speaker panel. That's about it though. Pretty much ready for paint.
(https://i.imgur.com/5LV2stX.jpg?1)
Here's a shot of the back with the access door closed. The gaps aren't bad at all. Certainly better than I initially thought. The only thing missing is the volume knob, which will go in the lower left where the hole is.
(https://i.imgur.com/DSqIjbE.jpg?1)
This what it will look like with the door opened up. Plenty of room for my giant hands to work on the inside of this thing when it is all finished. Getting this put together actually made me start to think about final assembly. There are certain panels I may not want to glue in place permanently. For example, there is not enough room above the speaker panel to remove or swap out the speakers should something go wrong down the line. I may need to rely on screws only here otherwise I'll have to install the speaker and then glue the panel in place (and even then, how would I wire it?).
(https://i.imgur.com/0oEHI3R.jpg?1)
Check out the sweet hinge that I installed flush to the edge of each panel...
(https://i.imgur.com/UIP3pVV.jpg?1)
And here it is in action! How exciting!
! No longer available (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=dIvmi3dg8mU#)
The next picture shows where the admin panel MAY go. I'm having second thoughts, which I explain in the video below.
(https://i.imgur.com/3Gf9zVh.jpg?1)
! No longer available (http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vF3c_VBdob8#)
Anyone have any thoughts or experience with admin buttons mounted below the screen? I'd like to place them there but I will really be annoyed if I'm accidentally exiting games because of moving the joystick around. I'm less concerned about the buttons in the middle (P1/P2 Start) or on the right (Coin) because hitting those won't really affect anything.
Post by: Vidiot on June 19, 2018, 12:02:56 pm
Post by: Richie_jones on June 19, 2018, 05:25:53 pm
Not seen a shot with the screen in yet..you gonna have much of a bezel?
Post by: Richie_jones on June 19, 2018, 05:26:37 pm
Post by: javeryh on June 19, 2018, 09:01:31 pm
Nice work. Following along..
Not seen a shot with the screen in yet..you gonna have much of a bezel?
The monitor fits exactly in between the 2 side panels - in the case. There will be about 3/4" on each side and maybe 1" or so on the top and bottom.... It fits. Probably. I think...
Side pinball buttons?
Nope. No pinball on this cab. The monitor will be horizontal and it will be painful enough to play vertical classics like Pac-Man and Donkey Kong on it... In the spirit of keeping things simple I don't want the extra buttons. :cheers:
Post by: javeryh on June 20, 2018, 09:26:47 am
(https://i.imgur.com/W0kRmgZ.jpg)
Post by: Mike A on June 20, 2018, 09:42:28 am
Post by: javeryh on June 20, 2018, 10:08:16 am
Is there a reason for decasing it?
Good question. I think so. The bezel around the monitor angles in as you can see in the pic and this will create about a 1/4" gap between the monitor glass/bezel and the actual screen. I am going to order a piece of 1/8" smoked gray tempered glass and spray the back of it black leaving the rectangle for the screen to show through. If I decase it, I can mount the screen directly to the back of the glass (using strong tape or something) and it will actually end up being slightly closer to the player making the screen seem ever slightly bigger.
Also, by opening up the case I can relocate the admin buttons for the screen to somewhere that can easily be reached should the need arise.
Post by: Mike A on June 20, 2018, 10:14:58 am
Post by: javeryh on June 20, 2018, 03:50:21 pm
It seems like a bunch of work for no real gain. An eight of an inch is not going to make the screen look bigger. It seems like a can of worms that doesn't need to be opened. That being said, I am sure it will look good either way. You know what you are doing.
I agree but I've already opened the monitor up as soon as it arrived at the house because that was the original plan. There are only 4 screws holding the case together. I got a little scared because it wasn't what I expected so I closed it up. The screen is literally just the screen - about 1/4" thick, if that. The other monitors I've messed around with (Dell 19" mostly) all have removable plastic bezels but still retain the Vesa mount and everything inside.
I think I can get the finished product to look a little nicer with it decased so that's the rationale. I think I'm going to try. Maybe.
Post by: ivwshane on June 21, 2018, 11:19:28 pm
Post by: JDFan on June 21, 2018, 11:43:36 pm
It seems like a bunch of work for no real gain. An eight of an inch is not going to make the screen look bigger. It seems like a can of worms that doesn't need to be opened. That being said, I am sure it will look good either way. You know what you are doing.
I agree but I've already opened the monitor up as soon as it arrived at the house because that was the original plan. There are only 4 screws holding the case together. I got a little scared because it wasn't what I expected so I closed it up. The screen is literally just the screen - about 1/4" thick, if that. The other monitors I've messed around with (Dell 19" mostly) all have removable plastic bezels but still retain the Vesa mount and everything inside.
I think I can get the finished product to look a little nicer with it decased so that's the rationale. I think I'm going to try. Maybe.
Could also just remove the front of the case and leave the back of the case on so you could use the VESA mounts.
Post by: javeryh on June 22, 2018, 05:52:19 pm
Could also just remove the front of the case and leave the back of the case on so you could use the VESA mounts.
This won't work actually. Once the case comes off the screen just floats. At that point there would only be a ribbon cable holding the screen to the rest of the case (vesa mount plus ports). I'll open it uip ans grab a pic or two this weekend - I'm hoping to make a lot of progress while the wife is out of town.
Decasing a screen isn't really that big of a deal and in my opinion it allows for a better, more precise fit because of its square and flat dimensions. Whereas on a non decased screen some time the bezel has curves to it. It also cuts a lot more depth than you think out of it.
Yup. My issue now is trying to find a good way to support it along with the monitor glass. I do not want to make a bezel out of MDF - I want the monitor to be flush to the glass. I'm thinking I could use some heavy tape to secure the monitor in place and use some double sided tape to attach the HDMI and other ports to the back of the screen. Not sure how it will work until I actually do it though.
How would you support the monitor glass?
Post by: javeryh on June 23, 2018, 06:28:12 pm
Something like this for the marquee:
(https://i.imgur.com/QsdPiak.png)
The lettering here is too flat if that makes any sense but this is the general look. It will obviously need a background - I was thinking of a city skyline below (and behind) the lettering that looked like it was being invaded by UFOs or something.
For the CP, I want to keep it simple but match the marquee in terms of color and design.
(https://i.imgur.com/K632UqT.png)
I don't want any art here - more like a design? Nothing too busy but not too plain like Frogger or something. Maybe some button rings but not sure I can measure that exactly so maybe some stripes will have to do. Something similar to Centipede or Tron or Tempest (not the colors, obviously) - just a cool design. I do not want to label any of the buttons - the 6 on the top are self explanatory and the 4 on the bottom can accept button inserts so I'll label those that way. I do think it would be cool to add "Invading Earth Since 2007" along the bottom (in somewhat small font) because that is the year my son was born and it fits the theme.
Not sure about side art yet. In my head I picture a martian with green skin and antennae pointing a retro-futuristic ray gun with "Jack Attack" along the bottom edge and a UFO in the marquee area but I have no idea how to get the image in my brain onto the computer. Maybe that's too busy. I don't know.
I'm not sold on any of this if someone can come up with something better than "Jack Attack" for a fake game that incorporates the name.
Either way, I'm obviously going to have to commission the art - is there somewhere reliable I can go to hire a comic book or graphic artist who will take some direction?
Post by: Drnick on June 23, 2018, 07:33:37 pm
Post by: javeryh on June 24, 2018, 12:57:28 pm
I think there are a couple of people in the Art section that can probably help you out in that respect :) :cheers: By the way, very nice work so far. I am Impressed with the choice of unique theme over generic art.
Thanks - I'm hoping this comes out 1/2 as nice as I picture it in my head. Art is like 90% of a successful project... then playability... OK maybe not that bad but to me art makes or breaks a project.
______________
Alright... today I'm trying to make some real progress. I am officially in over my head after decasing the monitor. There is practically nothing inside but my guess is as long as I keep everything connected I shouldn't have any issues. Here are some pics of the inside:
(https://i.imgur.com/TtwG9Ql.jpg)
This is what it looked like after opening it up. Due to the ribbon cables I couldn't even separate the pieces of plastic for the bezel - I had to remove the control panel and the circuit board from the back panel first.
(https://i.imgur.com/0jSG1FS.jpg)
I will need to use some double sided tape to hold the circuit board against the back of the monitor.
(https://i.imgur.com/WAHharQ.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/bYAAC5e.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CFWxD00.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/yYMvmHB.jpg)
There are rubber pads and clips holding the monitor in place against the front bezel. I wonder if I can reuse this somehow... my plan right now is to just tape the monitor to the back of the glass. This will make things flush and assuming I can figure out how to keep the glass from moving I think it will work.
(https://i.imgur.com/9Cl0eHb.jpg)
I'm also in the process of painting the cabinet. I disassembled everything and one coat of primer has been sprayed on the interior faces of all of the panels (including the CP because I'm an idiot - I have to round over the front edge before doing anything with it). I'll sand and do one more coat before flipping everything over to do the exterior faces. I don't really care how things look on the inside so I started there. I hate painting.
Post by: Mike A on June 24, 2018, 01:30:08 pm
Post by: javeryh on June 24, 2018, 02:47:05 pm
Can of worms opened.
Haha yup. One of my goals for this build was to actually learn something so I'm trying to get out of my comfort zone...
Post by: DaOld Man on June 25, 2018, 06:55:14 am
Attach angles to the inside wood sides using threaded inserts.
Or instead of flat stock, you could run aluminum angle, then you could notch out for that ribbon cable.
Post by: javeryh on June 25, 2018, 10:59:29 am
You could possibly run a couple of flat aluminum stock pieces across the top and bottom of that plate. sandwich the screen between the aluminum flats and the plexi, with double sided tape holding the screen to the flats until you got the plexi in. You could then attach the flats to the inside of the cabinet with aluminum angle pieces. (all this is available at Lowes).
Attach angles to the inside wood sides using threaded inserts.
Or instead of flat stock, you could run aluminum angle, then you could notch out for that ribbon cable.
I think I can get something like this to work - I wonder if I can get a 1/8" "U" channel in aluminum...
_____________
The cabinet is painted! I'm getting close now. All the paint is complete except some touch up along some (semi) visible edges like the access door in the back. I went with something a little different for this build. In the past, I've really tried to get a mirror finish and it ends up being a ton of work for a small payoff. The DK I did a while back was finished using a nap roller and regular paint and it came out very nice - the texture didn't bother me at all and honestly all I see now when I look at it is blue. Compare that to the pink cabinet I built that I sanded to a mirror finish - all I see when I look at that one is pink. So I don't think the finish matters as much as I think it does as long as it is done neatly.
OK I'm rambling... what I'm trying to say is that for this cabinet I decided I wanted the paint job to be very textured. Last summer I built 7 speakers and 2 subwoofers and finished them using a product called DURATEX. It gets very hard as it cures - more like a plastic than a paint. I'm sure you've all seen it before. Anyway, I had some leftover and I don't plan on building any more speakers any time soon so I decided to use some of it on this cabinet. The sides and the CP will still be very colorful but the top panel and the back was going to be painted black so I figured why not.
I started with 2 coats of Bissner 1-2-3 in gray. I ended up needing 2 cans because I had to do both sides of every panel.
(https://www.rustoleum.com/~/media/DigitalEncyclopedia/Product/RustoleumUSA/CBG/zinsser/primer-sealers/bulls-eye-1-2-3-spray/02008_1011_BEY123_13oz_MaxSpray_L.ashx)
This took a while due to dry times and the spray could have been better out of the can but it worked. I knocked the first coat back with 220 and the second coat with 400 to make the surfaces fairly smooth before applying the DURATEX.
Here is what all of the panels looked like before I (re)assembled the cab:
(https://i.imgur.com/G1oReGg.jpg?1)
I even painted the bottom for no reason! I should note that the 2 marquee retainer brackets were just sprayed black with the rattle can.
Here is a close-up of the top panel - you can really see the texture here. It looks (and feels) very cool in person.
(https://i.imgur.com/skOjvvm.jpg?1)
I REALLY like the way it came out. The pictures don't do it justice. Now I really need to get serious about the art!
Post by: DaOld Man on June 25, 2018, 12:14:43 pm
I think I can get something like this to work - I wonder if I can get a 1/8" "U" channel in aluminum...
Check Lowes or Home Depot. I bought some aluminum U channel at Lowes a year or so ago, but I think it was 1/2" wide. Which isnt as wide as youd think.
Post by: Mike A on June 25, 2018, 12:18:51 pm
Quote
OK I'm rambling... what I'm trying to say is that for this cabinet I decided I wanted the paint job to be very textured. Last summer I built 7 speakers and 2 subwoofers and finished them using a product called DURATEX. It gets very hard as it cures - more like a plastic than a paint. I'm sure you've all seen it before. Anyway, I had some leftover and I don't plan on building any more speakers any time soon so I decided to use some of it on this cabinet. The sides and the CP will still be very colorful but the top panel and the back was going to be painted black so I figured why not.
Do you have any pics of the speaker boxes? I am building a Bass guitar amp speaker box for my son. I am not quite sure what I am going to do for the exterior finish yet.
Post by: javeryh on June 25, 2018, 12:56:35 pm
QuoteOK I'm rambling... what I'm trying to say is that for this cabinet I decided I wanted the paint job to be very textured. Last summer I built 7 speakers and 2 subwoofers and finished them using a product called DURATEX. It gets very hard as it cures - more like a plastic than a paint. I'm sure you've all seen it before. Anyway, I had some leftover and I don't plan on building any more speakers any time soon so I decided to use some of it on this cabinet. The sides and the CP will still be very colorful but the top panel and the back was going to be painted black so I figured why not.
Do you have any pics of the speaker boxes? I am building a Bass guitar amp speaker box for my son. I am not quite sure what I am going to do for the exterior finish yet.
HERE (https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/2915502-yet-another-diysg-elusive-1099-build.html)
Post by: Mike A on June 25, 2018, 01:13:29 pm
Post by: javeryh on June 25, 2018, 01:19:41 pm
Those look good. I will have to consider using that finish. Thanks.
yeah - I'm quite pleased with how they came out. The paint is hard to mess up because it rolls on thick. It's expensive though - if I remember correctly I think it was $70 for 1/2 gallon but it stretches - I did not need to order more and I had a lot leftover (to use for this project!).
HERE (https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/2899313-yet-another-diysg-volt-6-build.html) are the surrounds and HERE (https://www.avsforum.com/forum/155-diy-speakers-subs/2918606-yet-another-diysg-stonehenge-build.html) are the subwoofers for some additional pics...
Post by: Mike A on June 25, 2018, 01:24:12 pm
Post by: javeryh on June 25, 2018, 05:04:11 pm
I think I can get something like this to work - I wonder if I can get a 1/8" "U" channel in aluminum...
Check Lowes or Home Depot. I bought some aluminum U channel at Lowes a year or so ago, but I think it was 1/2" wide. Which isnt as wide as youd think.
I'll take a look next time I'm there!
Post by: javeryh on June 26, 2018, 10:24:59 am
I'm quite pleased with the duratex paint. I think it looks really cool and it was a good way to avoid paint streaks from a brush.
Here's where I'm at so far.
(https://i.imgur.com/NYtxXa7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/t28IRWA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/JtC4YK0.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/FgtTMVh.jpg)
I should note that the inside edge of the side panels was painted with black Rustoleum paint. I brushed this on with a disposable foam brush (2 coats). I was worried that the Duratex here would make it difficult to remove the CP and cause some other assembly issues. Even so, inserting and removing the CP panel scratched the paint a little bit so I'll have to keep an eye on that and probably do some touch up once the cabinet is complete. I don't envision needing to get under the CP that often...
(https://i.imgur.com/CErlHtN.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/90h1jkp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RooUuDV.jpg)
I love the size and I'm glad I went with the smaller design. This will actually be a something that can be played on a table and moved around easily.
I keep saying I need to get serious about the art but I really do. Next steps:
- paint exposed edges of MDF panels with Rustoleum black (access door and top and bottom real panel edges).
- measure and order monitor glass
- order power supply - I'm looking at THIS (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01H4YTH6W/ref=psdc_495314_t2_B072PT17X3) one. Seems like it will do the job.
If I can get this stuff done by the end of the week I'll call it a win. :cheers:
Post by: Malenko on June 26, 2018, 11:28:56 am
Post by: javeryh on June 26, 2018, 12:54:35 pm
you need any help with the art?
Maybe? I was going to try and commission a comic book artist to draw the marquee, CP and side art for me. I need to get exact measurements of everything first. I want it to look hand-drawn and not something cheaply made on the computer. For example, although I like the font in my original post, I do not like the matching font I've seen online at places like dafont, 1001 free fonts, etc. The lettering has to be hand drawn (as well as the rest of the art) so the same letters aren't identical if I'm making any sense.
I am kind of at a loss on the side art right now but still thinking about it.
The CP overlay just has to match - I want a cool looking design that fits the theme (no pictures/art other than small lettering at the base that says "Invading Earth Since 2007").
T-Molding, balltop and buttons are all going to be white.
- Seimitsu 30mm solid white buttons with solid white bezel (HERE (https://www.focusattack.com/seimitsu-ps-14-gn-screwbutton-white/)) for action buttons
- Seimitsu 24mm clear white buttons with solid white bezel (HERE (https://www.focusattack.com/seimitsu-ps-14-gn-c-screwbutton-white/)) for admin buttons which will be placed on front of CP).
I need to collect my thoughts and try to work up some crappy sketches to convey my idea better.
Post by: javeryh on June 27, 2018, 09:48:14 am
(https://i.imgur.com/JbDjaAs.jpg)
However, I left a 1/4" lip all the way around the side panels of the cabinet where the interior panels connect. The bottom panel was actually elevated 1/4" when the cabinet was supported by the side panels. These feet weren't quite tall enough so I made some spacers out of MDF. I made them smaller than the rubber feet because I did not want them to be seen at all. I'm not 100% sure this was the best solution but no one will ever see it so who cares... OK, I do but I can't think of a better solution.
(https://i.imgur.com/QkxaIs7.jpg)
In order to locate the feet, I used 2 pencils that my daughter left out as spacers from the edges. They were literally just sitting in front of me so I went for it. Normally, something like this would slow me down for hours while I researched where other people placed their cabinet feet and what they used, etc. but I'm trying to get past that mental hurdle.
(https://i.imgur.com/TA69F8z.jpg)
Once I located all 4 feet, I used an awl to mark the center point for my drill and I drilled out the holes.
(https://i.imgur.com/Yy9kpKp.jpg)
Then I attached the feet using the spacers I made. I didn't even paint the spacers and it is bothering me just thinking about it but that seems like a waste of time. Ideally, I'd have been able to use some 1/2" black PVC piping and make 4 spacers of it if such a thing even exists... hmm... looks like i'm headed to Home Depot at lunch today. Again. I can't let this go.
(https://i.imgur.com/0PVoXsi.jpg)
It looks good and the final result lifts the cabinet off the ground perfectly - There will be room for the t-molding along the bottom edge of the side panels and the cabinet will still be spaced off of the ground nicely.
(https://i.imgur.com/O93vgHP.jpg)
Next up tonight is to get the access door installed along with the magnets for the control panel. I tried yesterday but as I feared it was now too tight due to the paint. Nothing a little sanding can't fix but it will probably take me an hour or so to get it just right. :cheers:
EDIT: I swapped out the MDF spacers for spacers made out of PVC pipe and sprayed black. Scroll down to see what I did to fix this abomination.
Post by: DaOld Man on June 27, 2018, 08:06:15 pm
I think with those rubber feet I would stack metal washers to the height you need. The metal washers would be small enough diameter to disappear under the feet, or they could be same diameter as the feet so they look like part of the feet. You could paint the edges of the washers black.
Ive never seen any black PVC, but you can probably paint the white stuff black. (Plastic suitable paint)
Im anxious to see how yo do this, Im sure it will be genius.
Post by: Arroyo on June 27, 2018, 08:42:47 pm
Post by: Drnick on June 28, 2018, 02:29:54 am
Post by: javeryh on June 28, 2018, 10:29:41 am
I would go down the stacked washer route to increase the height :)
Looking great Jav!
I think with those rubber feet I would stack metal washers to the height you need. The metal washers would be small enough diameter to disappear under the feet, or they could be same diameter as the feet so they look like part of the feet. You could paint the edges of the washers black.
Ive never seen any black PVC, but you can probably paint the white stuff black. (Plastic suitable paint)
Im anxious to see how yo do this, Im sure it will be genius.
Thanks guys - I thought about washers but didn't want the added weight believe it or not. I'm trying to keep it somewhat portable so every little bit counts! I did manage to find some 1/2" PVC that seems like it will work but not in black. That's what the rattle can is for! Now, how am I going to cut four 1/4" slices.... stay tuned...
Looking good! You sure making this building thing look easy.
Thanks! What you don't see is all the stupid mistakes and cursing that goes on behind the scenes... I wanted to build this thing quick - July 3 is my son's birthday so that's out the window but if I can finish by the time school starts again I'll consider it a win. Besides, this is the year he's finally getting an iPhone. :cry:
________________
I bit the bullet and ordered the glass for the monitor. I hope I got the dimensions right. I shorted all sides by 1/16" just to be safe. Man, this stuff costs a lot. $50 ($22 in shipping - grrrr). I bought a 1/8" piece of tempered glass with a light gray tint and slightly beveled on the sides so you won't see any edge chips. I got it tempered so it won't shatter (hopefully). The glass will be "locked" in place once the cab is compete so I'm not worried about it falling out but better to be safe than sorry. I could have bought a piece of lexan or plexiglas but in my experience it just doesn't look as nice and can be easily scratched. Oh well. It's only money, right?
:dunno
Post by: Drnick on June 28, 2018, 02:02:47 pm
I bit the bullet and ordered the glass for the monitor. I hope I got the dimensions right. I shorted all sides by 1/16" just to be safe. Man, this stuff costs a lot. $50 ($22 in shipping - grrrr). I bought a 1/8" piece of tempered glass with a light gray tint and slightly beveled on the sides so you won't see any edge chips. I got it tempered so it won't shatter (hopefully). The glass will be "locked" in place once the cab is compete so I'm not worried about it falling out but better to be safe than sorry. I could have bought a piece of lexan or plexiglas but in my experience it just doesn't look as nice and can be easily scratched. Oh well. It's only money, right?
:dunno
Where's the bloody Thumbs Up emoticon :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: You have done the right thing with the rounded tempered glass.
Post by: javeryh on June 29, 2018, 10:55:24 am
Where's the bloody Thumbs Up emoticon :cheers: :cheers: :cheers: You have done the right thing with the rounded tempered glass.
Ha - I hope so. Seemed like the right thing to do. Not sure about the tint on the glass but it should be OK. In my experience clear glass doesn't look as nice as gray.
____________
Last night I *finally* got all of the dimensions for the panels that require art. I measured in mm, which was odd but I thought it would be more accurate. I think I got everything to within 1mm tolerance, which is hopefully OK.
My question - what program can I use to just lay everything out so it prints actual size? I want to be able to deliver a "canvas" to whoever I hire to do the art so I want to layout the edges of the panel as well as the button locations and everything. Here are the dimensions:
(https://i.imgur.com/hNRWCIp.png)
Thanks.
Post by: DaOld Man on June 29, 2018, 04:02:01 pm
Post by: Mike A on June 29, 2018, 04:44:54 pm
Post by: javeryh on June 29, 2018, 06:15:29 pm
Post by: javeryh on June 30, 2018, 11:32:35 am
It's pretty small and will easily fit inside of the cabinet:
(https://i.imgur.com/pYSd6YG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/NFHL6Qm.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/1vluNTW.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/0FF7Fv2.jpg)
I plugged it into the wall using a spare computer power cord, plugged my iPad charger into one of the sockets and then plugged my phone in. My phone started charging instantly. I flipped the red switch on the top of the socket and power was cut to my phone. It appears to be working!
Some things to point out:
- The light on the switch is always on no matter if the switch is receiving power or not. Is this normal? Seems like it would have to be the case based on how it is wired but I was thinking the red light might turn off if the switch wasn't on.
- The smaller white, black and green wires inside of the black cord is 18 gauge. It seemed a little thin but I don't think this matters (or does it?)
- Of course the socket does not have enough room to fit inside of the hole I cut for it on the back of the cabinet so when I go too install it permanently I'll have to take off all of the quick disconnects, thread the cord through and then attach everything again. Not a huge deal but easily avoided.
I'm sort of in a holding pattern here until I sort out the artwork and the piece of glass arrives so I can finish construction of the cabinet itself. In the meantime, I'm researching the raspberry pi and RetroPie and how to hook up a momentary button for on/off and how to get the ServoStick working properly. This is all new to me and will be the hardest part of this build for sure. :cheers:
Post by: JDFan on June 30, 2018, 12:07:09 pm
The light on the switch is always on no matter if the switch is receiving power or not. Is this normal? Seems like it would have to be the case based on how it is wired but I was thinking the red light might turn off if the switch wasn't on.
Sounds like you might have the input power on the wrong side of the switch ( ie. swap the AC in and jumper wire on the switch connectors) The light is wired to one side of the switch so if the input is on that side the light always receives power instead of only receiving power when it is switched on.
Attempt to explain :
In the attached the light inside the switch is either wired between b1 an w1 or b2 and w2. Lets say it is between b1 and w1
If you put the AC in connected to b1 and w1 the light always gets power whether the switch is on or off -- If you place the AC input on b2 and w2 the light only gets power when the switch is on. SInce the switch passes the power from one side to the other.
Post by: javeryh on June 30, 2018, 12:16:45 pm
The light on the switch is always on no matter if the switch is receiving power or not. Is this normal? Seems like it would have to be the case based on how it is wired but I was thinking the red light might turn off if the switch wasn't on.
Sounds like you might have the input power on the wrong side of the switch ( ie. swap the AC in and jumper wire on the switch connectors) The light is wired to one side of the switch so if the input is on that side the light always receives power instead of only receiving power when it is switched on.
Thanks. I followed this tutorial exactly and I made sure to have my switch facing the same way as the one in the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4Vhkgq4JEg (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4Vhkgq4JEg)
I'm almost afraid to change it but if I understand correctly, you are saying to switch the two connections on the left with the two connections on the right of the switch.
EDIT: now looking HERE (http://www.instructables.com/id/Wire-Up-a-Fused-AC-Male-Power-Socket/) I'm thoroughly confused. It is wired completely differently.
Post by: JDFan on June 30, 2018, 12:20:53 pm
The light on the switch is always on no matter if the switch is receiving power or not. Is this normal? Seems like it would have to be the case based on how it is wired but I was thinking the red light might turn off if the switch wasn't on.
Sounds like you might have the input power on the wrong side of the switch ( ie. swap the AC in and jumper wire on the switch connectors) The light is wired to one side of the switch so if the input is on that side the light always receives power instead of only receiving power when it is switched on.
Thanks. I followed this tutorial exactly and I made sure to have my switch facing the same way as the one in the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4Vhkgq4JEg (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4Vhkgq4JEg)
I'm almost afraid to change it but if I understand correctly, you are saying to switch the two connections on the left with the two connections on the right of the switch.
EDited above to add a pic and explanation. THe light is internally connected to 2 of the prongs - If AC is supplied to that same side the light will always be on - if it comes in from the other side the light will only get power when the switch makes the connection (when switched on)
EDIT : The switch is removeable from the outer casing so can easily be turned around when installing - which is probably why it does not match up with the tutorial you followed.
Post by: javeryh on June 30, 2018, 12:26:32 pm
The light on the switch is always on no matter if the switch is receiving power or not. Is this normal? Seems like it would have to be the case based on how it is wired but I was thinking the red light might turn off if the switch wasn't on.
Sounds like you might have the input power on the wrong side of the switch ( ie. swap the AC in and jumper wire on the switch connectors) The light is wired to one side of the switch so if the input is on that side the light always receives power instead of only receiving power when it is switched on.
Thanks. I followed this tutorial exactly and I made sure to have my switch facing the same way as the one in the video: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4Vhkgq4JEg (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=W4Vhkgq4JEg)
I'm almost afraid to change it but if I understand correctly, you are saying to switch the two connections on the left with the two connections on the right of the switch.
EDited above to add a pic and explanation. THe light is internally connected to 2 of the prongs - If AC is supplied to that same side the light will always be on - if it comes in from the other side the light will only get power when the switch makes the connection (when switched on)
OK, I think I understand...
My switch is upside down otherwise my wiring would be correct. I am supplying power to b1 and w1 but I should be supplying it to b2 and w2. Can I just swap b1 with b2 and w1 with w2? I am asking because if I actually popped the switch out and flipped it upsidedown, keeping the same wiring would mean the black and white wires are reversed.
Post by: JDFan on June 30, 2018, 12:32:28 pm
Post by: PL1 on June 30, 2018, 01:22:21 pm
You can see the lamp leads at the base of tabs B and D.
(https://web.archive.org/web/20160920082358im_/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/images/thumb/a/ad/IEC4PinSwitchRear.jpg/360px-IEC4PinSwitchRear.jpg) (https://web.archive.org/web/20160920082358im_/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/images/thumb/b/b7/IEC4PinSwitchWiring.jpg/630px-IEC4PinSwitchWiring.jpg)
Scott
Post by: javeryh on June 30, 2018, 02:03:12 pm
Post by: JDFan on June 30, 2018, 02:07:53 pm
Thanks guys - I just rewired and it works perfectly. Power on = light on and power off = light off. Now I'm not so sure this is as simple as it should be with all the bad info out there!
It's not really bad info it's just that when assembling these things in CHINA they can put those switches in in different orientations since it doesn't really make a difference in function and they tend to use different parts from time to time so even the same product can have sllght differences over time.
Post by: javeryh on June 30, 2018, 02:16:12 pm
Thanks guys - I just rewired and it works perfectly. Power on = light on and power off = light off. Now I'm not so sure this is as simple as it should be with all the bad info out there!
It's not really bad info it's just that when assembling these things in CHINA they can put those switches in in different orientations since it doesn't really make a difference in function and they tend to use different parts from time to time so even the same product can have sllght differences over time.
Makes sense. :cheers:
_____________________
Alright... ever since I installed the cabinet feet I haven't been getting much sleep just knowing that there was bare MDF under there and exposed no less. Even though they were not visible, I just can't have that.
So I was off to Home Depot for a solution - I picked up a 2' length of 1/2" PVC pipe for $1.34. Using my chop saw and going super slow, I shaved off four (4) 1/4" thick rings. I did like 3 or 4 tests before figuring out that going slow wouldn't chip the PVC. I also lost a few rings due to them going flying after the saw cut through. Oh well.
I sprayed them black and then installed. Here's the before and after:
(https://i.imgur.com/dSvkgk5.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9TcXMgj.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/nGOP5bo.jpg)
I will finally sleep tonight!
Post by: javeryh on June 30, 2018, 09:49:53 pm
(https://i.imgur.com/hNRWCIp.png)
And he magically turned it into this:
https://www.dropbox.com/s/0xacr3xc2rsuvlf/template.pdf?dl=0 (https://www.dropbox.com/s/0xacr3xc2rsuvlf/template.pdf?dl=0)
I think I'm ready to find a comic/digital artist to help me out...
Post by: javeryh on July 09, 2018, 02:58:31 pm
(https://i.imgur.com/kcWa9aD.png?1)
This is to scale but not 1:1 - the white areas are where the art will show. I really hope this comes out like I'm envisioning...
In the meantime, the speaker grills and monitor glass have been delivered. I'm going to work on getting those installed this week and touching up some black paint on some inside edges while waiting for the art. I'm actually not that far off from completion even though it seems like it. I better get going on the software - I have no idea what I'm doing there! :cheers:
Post by: javeryh on July 10, 2018, 12:33:10 pm
In this first picture, the monitor is actually still attached to the front half of the case with those little sliver clips. The black squares are adhesive backed foam so the brackets can have something to sink into. I'm leaving those in place because I haven't quite figured out how I'm going to mount the monitor yet. The red strip on the back of the PCB was added by me - it's extra strength double sided foam tape.
(https://i.imgur.com/ltOv3Y3.jpg?1)
There is a ribbon cable connecting the PCB to the monitor that was taped to the back - I'm also leaving that in place. No reason to move it. This next picture shows the PCB mounted to the back of the monitor. I wanted all of the ports to face down and I didn't want to bend the ribbon cable if I could avoid it. Although if I was short on space I could have put them anywhere the ribbon cable would reach.
(https://i.imgur.com/Qd1nvNs.jpg)
This last picture shows just how thin the monitor is - the case added at least an inch (or more) plus the bezel was about 1/4" taller than the screen so I wouldn't have been able to get the monitor flush with the glass.
(https://i.imgur.com/o7WzieJ.jpg)
I think I have the mounting almost worked out but I'm still playing with it. I'm going to have to make a custom piece to support everything. My plan right now is to use some of the leftover aluminum L-bracket that I used for the marquee retainers and place it exactly at the front of where the CP will meet the monitor glass so that the monitor glass can sit on it. I've cut the aluminum and sprayed it black but I am still trying to figure out the exact shape of this custom piece.
I was mocking it up using cardboard so something like this (the cabinet is lying on its side):
(https://i.imgur.com/fVpNgkp.jpg)
It is hard to see because of the lighting and colors but the glass is in front of the aluminum bracket.
edekoning did something similar on his awesome NES bartop:
(https://i.imgur.com/Xn1uAal.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/wz7hS27.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/e6nK8KK.jpg)
I hope I can get it to work like he did!
Post by: Arroyo on July 10, 2018, 05:08:25 pm
Post by: javeryh on July 12, 2018, 11:32:32 am
(https://i.imgur.com/x8scuuQ.png)
It is almost exactly what I envisioned so I think we are in the right track. My only comments so far are (1) to add a border so that the art looks like it was specifically made for the cabinet instead of just a random picture from the internet that got cropped to fit and (2) to (maybe) add some detail at the top - maybe the UFO will be enough once it is finished or I suggested adding some sort of flying robotic-looking weapon/drone. Just something to fill the space.
I can't wait to see what he or she comes up with for the marquee and CP. What do you guys think?
Post by: Mike A on July 12, 2018, 11:48:15 am
Post by: Mike A on July 12, 2018, 12:00:30 pm
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
Post by: javeryh on July 12, 2018, 12:26:04 pm
The border I was thinking of would be similar to what krangbrain did for his Star Wars cabinet HERE (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,152253.msg1653350.html#msg1653350) - the border is inset but the main characters actually overlap it. I think it really ties the art to the specific cab. It wouldn't work (without modification) anywhere else.
Making the landscape wrap around the front of the CP is a neat idea - I'll ask if that would be a pain to implement.
Post by: barrymossel on July 12, 2018, 12:41:44 pm
If you ever need a real artist, give me a pm. This is just a small sample of my capabilities.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180712/3bd2e5a7778c3dd14afe2f680b4f47f0.jpg)I hate all those abbreviations, but: LOL
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
Post by: javeryh on July 13, 2018, 03:45:50 pm
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180713/b7e6f41eb5f2972e66186c8dcd97f9b7.jpg)
Not green but you get the idea - something that matches and is inset from the edge that the character can step out of. Otherwise I’m worried it will look like I just slapped a pic on the side that wasn’t tied to the cabinet.
I’m not 100% sold on it but I do want to see a mock up from the artist so that I can make a decision...
Post by: Mike A on July 13, 2018, 05:33:37 pm
Post by: javeryh on July 16, 2018, 11:15:35 am
(https://i.imgur.com/qlsdHUN.png)
Thoughts?
Post by: Mike A on July 16, 2018, 11:22:55 am
I am pretty disappointed you didn't commission me to do the artwork.
It is a shame you are going to deny yourself my obviously transcendent artistic ability.
I still prefer no outline.
Post by: javeryh on July 16, 2018, 12:32:58 pm
I am pretty disappointed you didn't commission me to do the artwork.
It is a shame you are going to deny yourself my obviously transcendent artistic ability.
I still prefer no outline.
It was a close call but an actual drawing barely beat out stick figures... but I would like to see your art on a cab some day.
Post by: Mike A on July 16, 2018, 12:33:50 pm
Post by: barrymossel on July 16, 2018, 12:43:10 pm
Alright - Revision 2. Ignore the colors - way off from what I'm envisioning but I think the artist nailed the picture. I wanted a little more activity in the top part so he (or she) redrew the UFO and also added the border, which I like but it is not the right color. We talked about adding some neon because of the 80s/robot/invasion theme but it's too much. I am going back and asking that it get colored normally (in a comic/cartoon style) but adding one or two neon highlights like the lights on the UFO and the things coming out of the ray gun just to make it pop.Besides the colors I really do like this one.
(https://i.imgur.com/qlsdHUN.png)
Thoughts?
Post by: javeryh on July 16, 2018, 03:00:45 pm
Besides the colors I really do like this one.
Thanks. I think we are on the right track.
I also have a mock up of the CP (again, ignore the colors). We went for an actual control panel look like you might find in a UFO or something. I like the idea. I want the art here to be simple and not distracting and I think this does the job. I didn't want arrows or button labels or the radiant beams that are so often used. Just something to tie into the overall theme.
(https://i.imgur.com/IdnZ5K0.png)
Obviously this is just a sketch so lines will need to be straightened out, etc.
I'm a little stuck on the marque though. My original idea modeled after the Mars Attacks! movie poster no longer seems to fit the design. The artist suggested some fonts ripped straight out of the 80s or GTA Vice City - neon script or metallic looking, etc. I don't want neon so I think that's out too. Hmmm...
Post by: Mike A on July 16, 2018, 03:13:48 pm
Post by: javeryh on July 16, 2018, 04:56:10 pm
I hate the control panel. I am not sure what I would replace it with. I will have to think about it.
I'm open to ideas although I do like the minimalist design. CPs are tough - usually just random patterns with clip art that don't tie into the overall theme (with obvious exceptions). I could go plain but that's no fun and wrapping the background around from the side art is a good idea for the front where the 4 admin buttons will go but what about the top 1/2? It also might be too much of the same thing. I am losing the "Invading Earth Since 2007" line I was thinking about adding along the bottom. I wanted to add "2007" somewhere since that was the year Jack was born but I guess it's OK. Maybe it could be a byline in the marquee? I don't know.
Post by: javeryh on July 17, 2018, 12:24:16 pm
Side Art: I told him/her to use "standard" colors on everything but add some splashes of neon for the lasers coming out of the ray gun, the robot's "teeth" and the rectangular lights on the UFO. I think a hint of neon will give it an 80s feel but I wanted this to look retro-futuristic.
Control Panel: I actually like the design and how it looks like it could be a control panel in a UFO or something but not too busy. Just asked to tone down the colors to match the side art.
Marquee: I was stuck here. The example the artist sent over looked like this:
(https://i.imgur.com/vwMQUNr.png)
Not bad other than the color scheme. UFOs would presumably match the one on the side art. I think that given the how short and wide the marquee is the name of the cabinet should be:
Jack Attack!
and not
Jack
Attack!
like the artist initially suggested. But I'm not completely sold on it. I sent over some additional examples of fonts I liked (going for a vintage/pulp/retro theme):
(https://i.imgur.com/UNGPNOb.png)
I like the Queen of Outer Space font the best - hand drawn so the same letters aren't exactly the same.
I think we are getting there. Hopefully only 1 or 2 more revisions before I can get it printed! :cheers:
Post by: Mike A on July 17, 2018, 12:32:19 pm
Post by: javeryh on July 17, 2018, 03:21:23 pm
If you use "Queen of Outer Space". The decision is easy. Just lay out 1950's era Zsa Zsa across the marquee.
The more I look at it the more I think that is the right style of font for this project. Maybe even off center with one of the UFOs to one side? I'm hoping by the weekend the design is final and the artist can start final coloring. I'd like to finish this project by the end of the summer!
Next up is figuring out how to hold the monitor glass in place. I need to drill some holes on the inside of the side panels but the drill can't get in there. Any ideas?
Post by: JDFan on July 17, 2018, 03:38:18 pm
I need to drill some holes on the inside of the side panels but the drill can't get in there. Any ideas?
RIght angle or flexible drill bit extension -- https://www.ebay.com/itm/Right-Angle-Drill-and-Flexible-Angle-Extension-Bit-Kit-for-Drill-Screw-1-4-US/232730240881 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Right-Angle-Drill-and-Flexible-Angle-Extension-Bit-Kit-for-Drill-Screw-1-4-US/232730240881)
and hex shank drill bit - https://www.ebay.com/itm/13pc-Hex-Shank-Titanium-Drill-Bit-Set-MULTI-BITS/290880924517 (https://www.ebay.com/itm/13pc-Hex-Shank-Titanium-Drill-Bit-Set-MULTI-BITS/290880924517)
Post by: ivwshane on July 18, 2018, 07:35:54 am
Post by: javeryh on July 18, 2018, 02:53:56 pm
RIght angle or flexible drill bit extension and hex shank drill bit
Wait a second... I have both of those things! :laugh2:
I didn't think the angled thing would work (how do you keep it steady) but I'm going to give it a second look. Thanks.
The finishing touches and artwork is what makes your cabs stand out. I wished I had your eye, skill, and resources to take my cabs to the next level like you and a few others do.
Thanks! I think it is mainly the resources since I lean on so many people when I build a cab (and I also don't really care about the money since it's all part of the hobby). The eye and skill is really just patience. I try and think about things from all angles before actually committing which is why it takes so long but it helps me get to where I want to be (usually). Summer baseball potentially ends tonight so I'll have a lot more time to work on this thing if we lose.
:cheers:
Post by: opt2not on July 18, 2018, 02:58:44 pm
Post by: Arroyo on July 18, 2018, 03:19:16 pm
Who's doing your art, javeryh? I like where it's heading.
Agreed, this looks interesting.
Post by: javeryh on July 19, 2018, 12:36:12 pm
Who's doing your art, javeryh? I like where it's heading.
An artist I found over at DeviantArt is helping me out. They have forums where you can ask for a commission. People respond with examples of their work (and prices) and you can pick the one you like the best. I liked someone named "Rusembell (https://www.deviantart.com/rusembell)" - his/her art style is great and the prices are fair (IMO - not sure the effort involved but I'm happy paying for quality work). Also, his/her communication has been great so far. I paid 1/2 up front which is a bit of a risk and I'll pay the other 1/2 once we have a final drawing without color.
Post by: opt2not on July 19, 2018, 02:13:11 pm
I paid 1/2 up front which is a bit of a risk and I'll pay the other 1/2 once we have a final drawing without color.That's pretty standard for most artists. I was requesting a 1/2 downpayment when I was doing art commissions for people, especially rando's that I didn't know from the forum. It's a mutual risk... I've been burnt before where I'd spend a lot of time and effort on their art, but then they'd go MIA by the time it was done. Putting money down solidifies your commitment to the final delivery.
I checked out Rusembell's stuff. Looks good. Looking forward to seeing what he/she does for you.
Post by: DaOld Man on July 19, 2018, 02:14:38 pm
Post by: javeryh on July 19, 2018, 04:33:27 pm
I paid 1/2 up front which is a bit of a risk and I'll pay the other 1/2 once we have a final drawing without color.That's pretty standard for most artists. I was requesting a 1/2 downpayment when I was doing art commissions for people, especially rando's that I didn't know from the forum. It's a mutual risk... I've been burnt before where I'd spend a lot of time and effort on their art, but then they'd go MIA by the time it was done. Putting money down solidifies your commitment to the final delivery.
Yes - definitely risky on both sides without knowing who you are dealing with. I didn't feel uncomfortable paying the 1/2 up front. Actually more risky for the artist since I could tell by the forum and frequency on the site that he/she was legit whereas I'm just some random person. It is working out nicely!
Looking good Javeryh!!
Thanks! I actually just got some feedback from the artist so we are getting closer. We are going to hold off on the marquee and control panel art until we finalize the color scheme for the side art. Keep in mind that I have WHITE buttons, t-molding and balltop.
(https://i.imgur.com/bhgLsha.png)
Here are 2 possible color schemes. The one on the left may be a little too blue/bright if that makes any sense but I like it better than the one on the right because the robot really pops off of the background. I do like the purple in the one on the right but it is too close to the gray metal of the robot so it doesn't stand out as much. I believe that this is just a mock-up and the final rendering will have everything colored in the lines, proper shadows and shading, etc. but we have to figure out the colors.
I was thinking of asking to see the sky in orange (instead of blue) but I'm afraid it would swallow up the red cape on the robot. Maybe yellow? I'm open to suggestions - I think it is easy for the artist to swap colors since this is all digital (but I'm not entirely sure).
I also think the border should be a different color - too much blue - but not sure what would work.
Next up is a close-up of the robot:
(https://i.imgur.com/sz6xiC5.png)
I think instead of neon green for the lasers and the ears I'm going to ask for neon red or hot pink and match that to the rectangular lights in the UFO. The green accents don't look quite right to me. I'm not sure though.
Here is the art without the profile of the cabinet side:
(https://i.imgur.com/qgdt0f7.png)
I do like where this is all headed - I think the idea is solid and we are just refining it now. I'd love to hear feedback. :cheers:
Post by: krangbrain on July 19, 2018, 05:01:59 pm
Post by: DaOld Man on July 19, 2018, 05:12:24 pm
That artist you have online is pretty good.
I have never vested much in artwork on my cabs, probably should, and seeing this guys work has me thinking.
Post by: Mike A on July 19, 2018, 05:39:48 pm
Post by: opt2not on July 19, 2018, 06:45:25 pm
I'd also change his right arm pose so he's not pulling a Micheal Jackson crotch-grab.
Post by: javeryh on July 20, 2018, 12:46:02 pm
This is sweet. I hear what you’re saying about the blue, and like you I’m drawn to that one. I like the border, but the bottom draft without the cabinet profile and border seems to flow best. Maybe it’s because the robot is popping out so much (which was something that you liked, so just ignore me if you want). I wonder what it would look like if it were zoomed out a bit. Either way I love it so far!
Interesting thought regarding the border. The reason I asked for it was (1) because I wanted the art to look like it was specifically made for the profile and (2) because I loved how it looked on your Star Wars cab! Without the border I'm worried it will look like some random pic off the internet that I slap on there. I've given t some thought and I think I'm going to ask to see the border in WHITE which will match my t-molding, buttons and balltop. That might make it look like it belongs the most.
In the back of my head I am thinking the border might make it very difficult to install once it is printed - I'd have to be extremely precise. Something else to consider...
I think I like the one on the left the most too. And I agree about the laser rings. Dont like the green. I think I would just delete the rings, but IDK, your call.
That artist you have online is pretty good.
I have never vested much in artwork on my cabs, probably should, and seeing this guys work has me thinking.
Thanks... everyone has me thinking about whether the rings are needed as well. The ones shown are just placeholders - they would be more detailed and in line with the rest of the art. I wanted something to fill the space in the bottom-front part of the profile and the rings kind of do the job. I definitely think green is the wrong color. Not sure what would work - I'm doing this on the fly!
1000 percent better than a video game character mashup. I still prefer it without the border. The colors are fantastic. No laser rings.
Thanks. When I decided to do this project I wanted to (1) incorporate my son's name in the theme, (2) avoid standard clip art and (3) make it unique. I think I'm getting there.
I also agree that the colors are fantastic - not what I initially pictured but it is so bright and will be impossible to ignore on the finished cab when it is in my son's room or the basement or wherever it ends up.
^i'm with Mike.
I'd also change his right arm pose so he's not pulling a Micheal Jackson crotch-grab.
LOL. I didn't see the crotch grab but I think the final coloring and detail will avoid that look and if not, my son always has his hands in his pants so I'll call it a tribute. :cheers:
________________________
I did get some clarity from the artist - the yellow shown on the robot is actually the setting sun reflecting off of the gray metal of the robot (he also mentioned maybe giving the robot a slight chrome effect too but I'm not so sure about that).
So what I'm thinking is (1) go with the blue background over the purple one, (2) ask to see a WHITE border to match the t-molding, buttons and balltop I'll be using and (3) ask to see the laser rings in a different color. I'm leaning towards a bright neon red or bright neon orange. My only concerns are that red being used for the cape so there will be a lot of red in that area (especially since the there will be a reflection from the lasers back onto the robot). I also want to see it without the border.
Other than that I think I'm ready to finalize this piece. I'm a little scared since it is much brighter than I had envisioned but at the end of the day this is an arcade cabinet and they are supposed to draw your eye.
Post by: krangbrain on July 20, 2018, 02:56:57 pm
Without the border I'm worried it will look like some random pic off the internet that I slap on there. I've given t some thought and I think I'm going to ask to see the border in WHITE which will match my t-molding, buttons and balltop. That might make it look like it belongs the most.
I totally agree with you on that. The border does customize it to your cab’s profile. In the end I say you go with the border whichever color you decide on.
In the back of my head I am thinking the border might make it very difficult to install once it is printed - I'd have to be extremely precise. Something else to consider...
True, but you’ll be able to get it. And even if it’s a tad off you’ll probably forget it after a month. Lol
Post by: javeryh on July 20, 2018, 03:32:43 pm
When we’re purposfully analyzing details from the artwork we probably see a lot of things things that we wouldn’t normally criticize at a casual glance. Even if you went with either the blue or purple drafts as the final product this would be one sick build.Without the border I'm worried it will look like some random pic off the internet that I slap on there. I've given t some thought and I think I'm going to ask to see the border in WHITE which will match my t-molding, buttons and balltop. That might make it look like it belongs the most.
I totally agree with you on that. The border does customize it to your cab’s profile. In the end I say you go with the border whichever color you decide on.In the back of my head I am thinking the border might make it very difficult to install once it is printed - I'd have to be extremely precise. Something else to consider...
True, but you’ll be able to get it. And even if it’s a tad off you’ll probably forget it after a month. Lol
Haha you are probably right. I tend to get obsessive over the details which is why things take me 10x as long as they should. :cheers:
______________________
After thinking about it for the last 2 hours, I'm going to go with PURPLE for the lasers. Something similar to Mace Windu's lightsaber. RED overlaps with the robot's cape too much and GREEN doesn't look right to me for whatever reason. I think PURPLE will actually compliment the blues that are already present in the piece (plus purple is cool!).
Now I really need to focus on the marquee - this is the thing giving me the biggest headache and I need some help. Initially the artist suggested something like this:
(https://i.imgur.com/lqvA30M.png)
That would be placed in the center of something like this:
(https://i.imgur.com/vwMQUNr.png)
I sort of rejected this out of hand. Given the narrow dimensions of the marquee I thought for sure it should be spelled out with the two words in a line and not one word on top of or in front of the other. Maybe I should have given it more thought. After researching fonts for hours and putting together the collage a few posts back and sending it to the artist he/she sent me this and asked if this is more what I had in mind:
(https://i.imgur.com/INCobJ5.png)
Sort of? Not really? I don't know! The artist used almost the same variety of colors as the "Queen of Outer Space" font that I liked so that the letters stand out from the background but he/she is open to ideas. The letters are still in draft quality to just show the layout.
Maybe it is the coloring here but I don't think it works with the side art. Does it? If it was blue/purple/red and the UFO was drawn to match the one on the side do you think it would work? Or am I better off trying to go with the artist's original suggestion? I could really use some help here as the marquee will be the centerpiece of the entire design so I want to get it right.
:cheers:
Post by: Arroyo on July 20, 2018, 03:51:07 pm
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180720/f2bbcc754214f5348cfcfbc926b343d7.png)
Post by: Mike A on July 20, 2018, 04:55:16 pm
Thanks again. (https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180720/65f656fab095464ee860c89d3797f62b.jpg)
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
Post by: javeryh on July 21, 2018, 08:14:46 am
Javeryh. Thanks for the tip on Duratex. It worked great with the crappy leftover plywood I used. I had to spackle the crap out of every surface. I am almost finished with my son's bass speaker cab. I just need to fix the front grill and add the corner protectors. Some of the seams need some more love too.
Thanks again.
Glad it worked out. That stuff will cover up just about anything and it is almost impossible to put on a bad coat. The speaker looks good - do you have a kit inside or is it just a new enclosure for an old one?
For some reason I assumed you’d be using the same font as the movie:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180720/f2bbcc754214f5348cfcfbc926b343d7.png)
You know, now that I'm looking at it again I think that font is something that would work and I liked it initially so I should probably go with my gut. I don't have to do red either. We could make it blue or purple to match the side art. Or maybe go with a blue background and a smaller version of the same UFO with the rocks and stuff near the bottom and the lettering in red to match the cape on the robot? Maybe instead of a black border it could be white to match the border around the side art? Not sure. I think I'm going to tell the artist to draw it up that way.
Anyone else have an opinion?
Post by: Arimack on July 21, 2018, 08:57:18 am
Here is a close-up of how the marquee retainer will sit. Assuming the entire area behind the marquee will be lit, the retainer will be where the cut off is for what is viewable instead of the top of the MDF speaker panel, which I think would create a 1/8" strip of the marquee that would not be lit but would be viewable and would look weird. I'll have to do the same thing to the top panel as well.
(https://i.imgur.com/41pKbFu.jpg)
I'm just checking out this project, Javeryh, and it is brilliant. Did not realize that you had already done this bevel when I posted mine afterwards. Would have given you credit if I had seen yours first. I am chalking it up to great minds...
(https://i.imgur.com/w8G4GqN.jpg)
I agree with you on the border for the sideart. Really like the artwork.
Post by: yamatetsu on July 21, 2018, 12:09:20 pm
(https://i.imgur.com/INCobJ5.png)
Sort of? Not really? I don't know! The artist used almost the same variety of colors as the "Queen of Outer Space" font that I liked so that the letters stand out from the background but he/she is open to ideas. The letters are still in draft quality to just show the layout.
Maybe it is the coloring here but I don't think it works with the side art. Does it? If it was blue/purple/red and the UFO was drawn to match the one on the side do you think it would work? Or am I better off trying to go with the artist's original suggestion? I could really use some help here as the marquee will be the centerpiece of the entire design so I want to get it right.
:cheers:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=369382)
This coloring of the logo doesn't look bad, HOWEVER if you go with the marquee's landscape and color it the same way as in the sideart, the logo will have the same colors as the background.
So, if you go with a dark sky, you probably should choose brighter colors for the logo.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=369384)
I have added a logo with the 'mars attacks' font, but I think the artist's font looks better.
Post by: leapinlew on July 21, 2018, 02:08:06 pm
But after thinking about it for a second, I think they both look good and either will look great. Not a real loser here. Except the Mars Attack font. It's a loser. I thought I'd like it more, but I don't.
Post by: javeryh on July 22, 2018, 11:09:56 am
I'm just checking out this project, Javeryh, and it is brilliant. Did not realize that you had already done this bevel when I posted mine afterwards. Would have given you credit if I had seen yours first. I am chalking it up to great minds...
Ha! I saw your pic a while back and I remember thinking dammit I didn't bevel mine enough!
I agree with you on the border for the sideart. Really like the artwork.
Thanks. I have thought the border was the way to go for a while now and I'm sticking to it! Maybe.
(https://i.imgur.com/INCobJ5.png)
Sort of? Not really? I don't know! The artist used almost the same variety of colors as the "Queen of Outer Space" font that I liked so that the letters stand out from the background but he/she is open to ideas. The letters are still in draft quality to just show the layout.
Maybe it is the coloring here but I don't think it works with the side art. Does it? If it was blue/purple/red and the UFO was drawn to match the one on the side do you think it would work? Or am I better off trying to go with the artist's original suggestion? I could really use some help here as the marquee will be the centerpiece of the entire design so I want to get it right.
:cheers:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=369382)
This coloring of the logo doesn't look bad, HOWEVER if you go with the marquee's landscape and color it the same way as in the sideart, the logo will have the same colors as the background.
So, if you go with a dark sky, you probably should choose brighter colors for the logo.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=369384)
I have added a logo with the 'mars attacks' font, but I think the artist's font looks better.
WOW. :notworthy: :notworthy: :notworthy:
Thanks so much for this. Makes it MUCH easier to communicate my ideas to the artist now and also figure out exactly what I want. I have a ton of things I want to see now haha. The background the artist provided actually looks great with the lettering. The color of the letting is what I'm not so sure of - should it be GRAY like the robot itself? Or maybe the lettering should be RED like the robot's cape. I like the BLUE better than the yellow (I think) but you are right in that if the background is blue to match the side art I'm going to need a different color for the lettering. This is fantastic! Thanks so much.
The "Mars Attack!" font I initially liked isn't showing as good. Is it because of the font itself or does it just need a thicker black border or something to maker it pop? I'm open to suggestions on the font - could be something completely different than what I've proposed.
At first blush, I like the warmer colors and think they would look better. I have a couple questions, are the LED's that light the marquee box 2700-3000k or 5000+k? If it's 5000, I'd definitely go with the blue font and use blue controls too. If they are 2700-3000k, and the controls are going to be warm (yellow/orange) I'd say the yellow/orange font is the way to go.
But after thinking about it for a second, I think they both look good and either will look great. Not a real loser here. Except the Mars Attack font. It's a loser. I thought I'd like it more, but I don't.
The LEDs are "Cool White (6000-6500K)" but I could always get something else if it will look better. Not even something I was thinking about so it's good to know now.
I also don't like the Mars Attack! font - at least the way it is showing here. Any recommendations for other fonts I'm not thinking of? The one the artist provided is nice but I'm not 100% sure it matches the style seen in the side art. I'm probably over-analyzing now though. :cheers:
Post by: rave0035 on July 22, 2018, 12:43:16 pm
If you're looking to tweak, I would go a little more 50's sci-fi...
(http://www.lileks.com/bw/scifi/magnetic/1.jpg)
(https://ctl.s6img.com/society6/img/3zwdd4Dff2YNtwvVd4MsGRQViE8/w_700/coffee-mugs/swatch/~artwork,fw_4600,fh_2000,fy_-1300,iw_4600,ih_4600/s6-0055/a/23453793_10573532/~~/50s-sci-fi-movie-poster-art-mugs.jpg)
(http://kosmosaicbooks.com/wp-content/uploads/2013/09/collage3-1024x575.jpg)
Mike
Post by: markc74 on July 22, 2018, 01:16:19 pm
Artwork looks great. I like the way it's actually portable too. I have some pi bits and an 8" screen that I'm going to use for something similar (but not as cool)
Post by: yamatetsu on July 22, 2018, 01:44:55 pm
Thanks so much for this. Makes it MUCH easier to communicate my ideas to the artist now and also figure out exactly what I want. I have a ton of things I want to see now haha. The background the artist provided actually looks great with the lettering. The color of the letting is what I'm not so sure of - should it be GRAY like the robot itself? Or maybe the lettering should be RED like the robot's cape. I like the BLUE better than the yellow (I think) but you are right in that if the background is blue to match the side art I'm going to need a different color for the lettering. This is fantastic! Thanks so much.
I'd say let the artist color the marquee and then start worrying about the logo color. As fonts go, I could imagine using 'Eastwood' plus a drop shadow, but I like the artist's font best.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=369411)
Post by: javeryh on July 22, 2018, 06:08:49 pm
What's cool about the artists' logo is that is isn't just a cookie-cutter font... each of the letters looks individually drawn.
If you're looking to tweak, I would go a little more 50's sci-fi...
Thanks - I specifically asked the artist to hand draw the letters. The 50s pulp/sci-fi font is exactly what I was going for. I think it matches the robot's style.
Wow - I love this thing!
Artwork looks great. I like the way it's actually portable too. I have some pi bits and an 8" screen that I'm going to use for something similar (but not as cool)
Thanks! I'm not quite finished yet... plenty of time to screw it up!
I'd say let the artist color the marquee and then start worrying about the logo color. As fonts go, I could imagine using 'Eastwood' plus a drop shadow, but I like the artist's font best.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=369411)
Wow - I like that too! Maybe with a black outline and hand drawn? I don't think I can screw it up too much but the marquee is the focal point so I want to get it right.
Post by: javeryh on July 25, 2018, 12:03:43 pm
(https://i.imgur.com/BMxwtvm.png)
I think I like the first one best actually. It is the one that stands out the most to me and pops off of the background.
We also put together a few different mock-ups for the laser beam shooting out of the ray gun and I'm not sure any of them look quite right but surprisingly the yellow is the closest.
(https://i.imgur.com/L2iHJN3.png)
What I'm thinking now is to match the laser to the color of the logo so it would be yellow/orange. This would tie the two pieces together because even though the yellow/orange logo looks the best, those colors don't yet tie into the side art. I guess could scrap the laser altogether but leaving the area by the CP barren doesn't look right to me either. I like the laser - I just don't think we have found the right color yet but I think we are close.
Thoughts?
Post by: Arroyo on July 25, 2018, 02:18:48 pm
Post by: opt2not on July 25, 2018, 03:29:59 pm
As for the laser, I wouldn't match the colour of the laser with the marquee at all. I'd actually do a completely different colour, something that stands out and is a departure from the character and background. Something like the green from the mid-left marquee, or do a blue/cyan plasma looking scheme. But the key is to have the laser stand-out rather than be matchy-matchy with the rest of the image or marquee art.
The philosophy is: Lasers should look like energy. Something intangible, that isn't tied to physical elements of your images.
Post by: Mike A on July 25, 2018, 05:45:13 pm
Quote
The philosophy is: Lasers should look like energy. Something intangible, that isn't tied to physical elements of your images.
See. That is the artsy fartsy stuff I am talking about.
Artists know when to match everything up and when not to.
Post by: opt2not on July 25, 2018, 06:16:28 pm
Post by: javeryh on July 26, 2018, 10:07:20 am
I agree with the Marquee color choice upper left. I also like the yellow laser, but in all of he laser shots the glow of the laser color on the robot seems too much to me. If your going to have it, seems like it might be better to dial down the glow....
I agree with the upper left. It is the one that initially jumped out at me and the colors are classic. I have a concern about this thing looking too bright so the other neon colors are probably out. This leads me to the laser - I definitely see your point. There are TWO reflections on the robot - one from the "setting sun" that is cropped due to the dimensions of the cabinet and the other on top of that is the reflection from the laser. The sun casting a yellow glow so I think you are right in that another yellow glow from the laser wouldn't work. Hmmm...
I like the top-left or top-right for the marquee. Leaning towards top-left though. Those are the colours that will be backlit nicer than the rest.
As for the laser, I wouldn't match the colour of the laser with the marquee at all. I'd actually do a completely different colour, something that stands out and is a departure from the character and background. Something like the green from the mid-left marquee, or do a blue/cyan plasma looking scheme. But the key is to have the laser stand-out rather than be matchy-matchy with the rest of the image or marquee art.
The philosophy is: Lasers should look like energy. Something intangible, that isn't tied to physical elements of your images.
This is an interesting line of thought and something that I wouldn't necessarily see myself. The artist's initial rendering of the laser was GREEN... maybe because that is what pops the most? To me, it seems out of place to have the green in the laser but nowhere else on the cab but I understand why. BLUE/CYAN could work too (and would go with the sky in the background a little more).
I think at this point I'm nitpicking - whatever the choice, I'm sure it will look great so I'm making the call - YELLOW/ORANGE (upper left version) for the logo colors and (gulp) GREEN for the lasers, eyes and ears.
______________________
I also requested to see the side art with a WHITE border as well as removing the border entirely.
(https://i.imgur.com/yjsWMTE.png)
I think the white border looks great. I have white t-molding, buttons and the balltop for the joystick so the white accent on the art will look great. The borderless version looks good too but like I've been saying, it loses its uniqueness without something tying it directly to this cabinet. So another call - WHITE border.
The artist also sent over a version with the sunlight slightly altered so that it looked a little more yellow/orange, respecting the blue color of the sky. He/she also put together a complete presentation including the side panel with the amber colors, the yellow logo to match, and the white border.
(https://i.imgur.com/3JHpX1A.png)
I'm not sure that this isn't too red - the cape doesn't pop as much here either. It also lost the wavy light coming out of the bottom of the UFO for some reason. I actually think I liked the old version better so I'm going to ask to revert to the prior draft. It does look good all together though. The laser will be the finishing touch giving the lower right of the panel something interesting.
Thoughts? :cheers:
Post by: Arroyo on July 26, 2018, 10:21:46 am
(https://i.imgur.com/3JHpX1A.png)
Thoughts? :cheers:
Probably should just let the artists chime in, but for some reason I see a dark grey/black for the cape to make it stand out. Other than that I think it looks awesome.
Post by: Mike A on July 26, 2018, 10:22:38 am
Post by: javeryh on July 26, 2018, 02:40:20 pm
SIDE ART:
- White border
- Green laser (with reflection on robot toned down/more subtle)
- Revert to original darker background
MARQUEE:
- Yellow/orange lettering for logo
Getting there! :cheers:
Post by: opt2not on July 26, 2018, 02:46:30 pm
Post by: javeryh on July 26, 2018, 03:04:42 pm
I don't think the white border works, tbh. Your cab has less art area to work with, and because of the small size you'll get that "bordering" effect with t-molding. Besides, with the graphics so rich and detailed, it makes the image look more cluttered. Borders should be used on artwork that is more simplified, IMO.
OK... I always have the option to remove it if I print it all out and it doesn't look quite right.
Post by: yamatetsu on July 27, 2018, 09:59:02 am
Post by: Malenko on July 27, 2018, 10:08:11 am
I don't think thewhiteborder works, tbh.
I agree but for a different reason. The border adds a 3D effect (that is actually pretty cool. However, that makes it look like the UFO is either right above the robot, or in front of it, which means the UFO is super tiny. Without the border the UFO looks like its pretty far back in the background and is HUGE.
Post by: JDFan on July 27, 2018, 10:18:13 am
I agree but for a different reason. The border adds a 3D effect (that is actually pretty cool. However, that makes it look like the UFO is either right above the robot, or in front of it, which means the UFO is super tiny. Without the border the UFO looks like its pretty far back in the background and is HUGE.
For this reason the UFO should probably actually be placed behind the border rather on top of it - to give the illusion it is further back near the mountains instead of directly above the robot.
Post by: rave0035 on July 27, 2018, 10:38:47 pm
Post by: javeryh on July 28, 2018, 06:19:07 pm
Post by: Mike A on July 28, 2018, 08:18:26 pm
Post by: luizw81 on July 28, 2018, 10:18:04 pm
Sent from my SM-J320R4 using Tapatalk
Post by: javeryh on July 29, 2018, 07:15:32 am
The border sucks. Nuke it.
Thinking about it...
Why not drop the border and use use white t-molding...the T-molding acting as a defacto border.
I am using white t-molding. The reason I am so set on the border is to tie the art to the cabinet profile. Otherwise it looks like any image that could have been printed from the internet and not something specifically designed for the space. I don't know. Once the art is done I'm going to test print both so I can make the call from actually seeing how it would look.
Post by: leapinlew on July 29, 2018, 10:52:10 am
Post by: barrymossel on July 29, 2018, 02:28:04 pm
I like the border. I just think the UFO should be behind it.Totally agree!
Post by: javeryh on July 29, 2018, 02:50:55 pm
I like the border. I just think the UFO should be behind it.Totally agree!
Thanks guys. I'm going to ask to see it like that. Hopefully that is the right answer!
______________________
While I'm waiting to finalize the art I thought I'd try and finish up a few things that have been lingering. I'm really dead in the water until I get the art done - I am waiting to drill out the holes for the buttons until I get the CP art finalized, printed and applied. Next time I'll start that process right away (next time LOL my wife is going to kill me!).
I touched up the inside edges of the speaker holes with some black paint and now I'm trying to figure out the best way to attach the grilles. I am thinking of using clear super glue but there's not much surface area for the grills to attach to. I could use the bezel the grill came with and spray it black but I don't like how far it sticks out. The grill alone looks really clean - I don't want them to be seen.
Any ideas on the best way to attach these things?
(https://i.imgur.com/LixAlM0.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/cmFm875.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/WMiM4da.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/aKgPKGA.jpg)
:cheers:
Post by: JDFan on July 29, 2018, 03:44:01 pm
Post by: javeryh on July 29, 2018, 04:32:55 pm
Perhaps route out a slightly larger circle from behind the panel leaving just a small thin amount of the existing circle in the panel and press them into the panel from the back and hot glue into place
Unfortunately I think I'm past the point where that is a viable solution. I think that clear super glue that bond to anything is going to be my best bet but I'm worried about making a mess with it.
Post by: javeryh on July 29, 2018, 06:27:18 pm
The left is the "before" and the right is "after" cleaning it up with the Sharpie. Looks great (the white specks on the right is actually reflection of light and not glue spots).
(https://i.imgur.com/4gvaVOZ.jpg)
Post by: javeryh on July 30, 2018, 11:15:54 am
I think I found an incredible solution though - I was looking for something sturdy but thin so I thought matte board would be perfect for the job. I bought a black piece from Michael's (arts and crafts store for non-US folks) but it only came with a white core. This means that the edges of the matte board would be white, which won't work. I know they make solid black core matte board but the store didn't sell it normally and a special order for a 2'x4' sheet was going to set me back $70. No thanks.
On may way out of the store I saw this for $8:
(https://i.imgur.com/OulnLwU.png)
I wasn't sure it would work but I grabbed it anyway. The matte board here has a solid black core and is twice as thick as the regular stuff (plus I get a pen!).
I did a little measuring and made a test piece out of the black matte board with the white core:
(https://i.imgur.com/DzdILUz.jpg?2)
One I did some test fitting and was comfortable that it would work, I traced it onto the thick black core matte board:
(https://i.imgur.com/EwVHPSD.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/078lSuj.jpg?1)
Here is how it will look on top of the monitor (with the test piece):
(https://i.imgur.com/F0VwrBh.jpg?1)
Not bad. Next up is the installation. :cheers:
Post by: javeryh on July 30, 2018, 02:48:17 pm
This first pic does not have the monitor bezel in place (you can see the gap for it):
(https://i.imgur.com/xZcr6xy.jpg)
Here's a shot with the monitor bezel in place:
(https://i.imgur.com/ajYER0Y.jpg)
I made the little clips out of a 1/2" x 1/2" strip of wood - same stuff I used for the battons. I cut a small notch out of the side for the aluminum to slide into. I'm planning to hold them in place with double sided tape and a screw so I can remove the glass if I have to. The only thing I haven't worked out yet is how to hold the aluminum bracket to the wood clip. Maybe some hot glue or super glue? Not sure yet. If I need to remove the glass I'd have to take out the aluminum bracket plus the two wood clips on each side as one piece, which seems like it would work but I'm not sure. The aluminum bar is lined up to be exactly at the end of the CP to make it seamless between the CP and glass.
This is what it will look like once it is installed. Don't pay attention to the black line that looks like the bottom edge of the bezel - that is actually the back of the cab where the rear door swings open. The pic make it look like I'm using a 16:9 monitor and I'm installing it WAY off center. The actual bottom is below that little brown rectangle but really hard to see.
(https://i.imgur.com/2XvQWrO.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/Io1VAXB.png)
Finally, here's a close-up of the top left corner. I'm quite pleased.
(https://i.imgur.com/ARojgP4.jpg)
I still need to drill the screw holes for the clips (as well as the magnets to hold the CP in place). I'm also still waiting on the next draft of the art but I'm trying to cross some stuff off the list in the meantime.
:cheers:
Post by: javeryh on July 31, 2018, 09:51:07 am
The artist was relieved that I went back to the green laser. He/she thought that was the clear winner. The changes are being made that I requested but no revised version this time. Probably not worth the effort since we are basically ready for final coloring.
Here's the next iteration of the CP.
(https://i.imgur.com/fpZe2tZ.png)
I really like the style so I don't think it needs anything else. It is supposed to be somewhat plain but still somewhat interesting design-wise if that makes any sense. The only thing I need to think about are the colors. Right now the TOP LEFT is the one that I like best but I might want to tweak it a little. I do want there to be some consistency along all three pieces and I think there will be once everything is finalized. Remember - buttons, t-molding and balltop are all WHITE.
Here is the marquee with the colors we decided on and some UFOs added in the corners as requested:
(https://i.imgur.com/EMIK1Pf.png)
My thoughts on this are that I like it but I think the 2 UFOs should be drawn bigger but behind the lettering so the lettering pops out a little and there can be more detail in the UFOs. I'm not really sure what else to add to this as I think it is simple and does the job.
Thoughts?
Post by: Mike A on July 31, 2018, 10:16:09 am
Post by: mafiafan123 on July 31, 2018, 12:31:10 pm
(https://i.imgur.com/3JHpX1A.png)
Thoughts? :cheers:
Probably should just let the artists chime in, but for some reason I see a dark grey/black for the cape to make it stand out. Other than that I think it looks awesome.
Im really digging it :applaud:
Post by: javeryh on July 31, 2018, 03:37:35 pm
Im really digging it :applaud:
Thanks!
I like the marquee just the way it is.
Me too. I'm slightly concerned about the UFOs being too close to the top edge where the marquee retainer will sit. I don't want them to get covered even a little bit. I'm going to ask the artist to slightly shrink the lettering and then move the UFOs down a bit... just in case.
What about the CP? I'm struggling with the color scheme. Now I think I like BOTTOM LEFT but without the diagonal stripes (so looking like TOP LEFT). My main concern is all three pieces colored to compliment each other. The design aspect ties them together nicely, IMO, just not sure the colors do.
Post by: opt2not on July 31, 2018, 03:44:06 pm
**Edit: Remember, things don't always need to be symmetrical. Asymmetry is more interesting to look at, while mirroring tends to get glazed over by people.
Post by: yamatetsu on July 31, 2018, 04:32:05 pm
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=369517)
CP top left.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=369519)
CP bottom right.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=369521)
CP bottom left.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=369523)
I'd say that none of the colors match the side and the marquee, the CP bottom left would be my choice if I absolutely had to pick one.
Regarding the UFO's in the marquee, I would either add some sort of light cone emitting from the UFOs so that they 'highlight' the logo or use one UFO as per opt2not's suggestion.
Post by: javeryh on July 31, 2018, 08:02:54 pm
You could have 1 larger UFO in the middle of Jack Attack. Perhaps one side of the UFO can be behind the "k" of Jack, while the other side is slightly covering the "A", giving it a 3D effect. I did a similar thing to my R-type II marquee (http://the-artcade.blogspot.com/2014/03/r-type-ii-bartop-art.html) with the Option pod.
**Edit: Remember, things don't always need to be symmetrical. Asymmetry is more interesting to look at, while mirroring tends to get glazed over by people.
Thanks for the advice. I was actually thinking about asking to place the UFO behind the lettering but much bigger on the LEFT only and eliminating the UFO on the right altogether. I think overlapping letters, etc. might be too much at this stage - we've gone back and forth many times already.
CP top right.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=369517)
CP top left.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=369519)
CP bottom right.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=369521)
CP bottom left.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=149895.0;attach=369523)
I'd say that none of the colors match the side and the marquee, the CP bottom left would be my choice if I absolutely had to pick one.
Regarding the UFO's in the marquee, I would either add some sort of light cone emitting from the UFOs so that they 'highlight' the logo or use one UFO as per opt2not's suggestion.
Thank you for this. It is so much easier to visualize the whole package. I am going to ask the artist to redo the colors like this:
(https://i.imgur.com/Ec8kd4s.png)
Just trying to bring in all the colors we've already used. Should be easy enough. I'm also going to ask that the UFO emit light like the side art - great idea.
Thoughts?
Post by: Malenko on July 31, 2018, 08:08:24 pm
Stylize the A to look like the robots face. eyes and nose make the hole in the A, the "mouth grill" makes the bottom part.
Post by: javeryh on July 31, 2018, 08:22:54 pm
1 UFO on the marquee, keep the one on the "jack side"
Stylize the A to look like the robots face. eyes and nose make the hole in the A, the "mouth grill" makes the bottom part.
I'm going with 1 UFO on the left. Bigger and behind the lettering with the light coming out of the bottom. I like the idea of the robot head being the "A" but it might be too late to make that big of a request.
Also, LOL
(https://i.imgur.com/mSATew0.png)
Post by: Malenko on July 31, 2018, 08:34:00 pm
Post by: javeryh on July 31, 2018, 08:38:44 pm
I meant the A in attack, and just small subtle changes to make it resemble the roboface
d'oh! I understand what you mean now. Great idea... might as well ask...
Post by: javeryh on July 31, 2018, 08:59:56 pm
(https://i.imgur.com/tf2WHtG.png)
Post by: Mike A on July 31, 2018, 09:04:58 pm
Post by: javeryh on July 31, 2018, 09:09:50 pm
I think at this point you just need to go with your gut and guidance from your artist.
yeah you are right. I already responded to the artist:
CONTROL PANEL
- Design is fine, I'm going with BOTTOM LEFT version (with the diagonal stripes in the background).
- Change color scheme to match other side art and marquee
MARQUEE
- Make the UFO on the left much bigger and place it BEHIND the lettering
- Remove the UFO on the right
- Add the ray of light coming out of the bottom of the UFO (similar to side art)
I hope to get things finalized tomorrow so I can pay the balance and the artist can begin final coloring. :cheers:
Post by: yamatetsu on August 01, 2018, 02:59:22 am
(https://i.imgur.com/Ec8kd4s.png)
IMHO the background color and the stripes should match the sky colors in the marquee, since you will be looking at the CP and the marquee at the same time, so matching those colors makes more sense. As for matching the colors of the small parts to those used in the side art, I doubt that anyone will notice this. Nice touch, but probably too subtle.
Post by: Malenko on August 01, 2018, 08:08:34 am
EDIT: Got home, photoshopped it quickly. This is a "quick and dirty" so you have a better idea what I meant.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=157460.0;attach=369545;image)
Post by: DaOld Man on August 01, 2018, 08:21:57 pm
How about the robot's head sticking out of the black spot on the A? It will look like hes climbing out of the A. probably not enough room for that.
Post by: javeryh on August 02, 2018, 09:51:38 am
IMHO the background color and the stripes should match the sky colors in the marquee, since you will be looking at the CP and the marquee at the same time, so matching those colors makes more sense. As for matching the colors of the small parts to those used in the side art, I doubt that anyone will notice this. Nice touch, but probably too subtle.
You are probably right but I already asked the artist to make the color changes. I might as well since I think it is a super easy thing to do in Illustrator or Photoshop. I definitely want the blue background to match the stripes and the background of the CP. The other colors will just be a nice touch although I think the yellow and orange will really stand out since those are also in the marquee.
EDIT: Got home, photoshopped it quickly. This is a "quick and dirty" so you have a better idea what I meant.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=157460.0;attach=369545;image)
Thanks - that looks pretty cool and definitely ties it to the side art. However, I think for simplicity's sake I'm going to leave the lettering as is (plus I already responded to the artist and didn't ask for this change ;D)
This project is looking great!
How about the robot's head sticking out of the black spot on the A? It will look like hes climbing out of the A. probably not enough room for that.
Thanks!! I'm getting anxious to finish it up. Seems like I have a ton left but there's actually not that much to do once I get the art finalized and applied.
I only have to drill a few holes for the buttons and then jam everything inside. Oh yeah, I also have to completely figure out the software side of things and get the ServoStik to talk to the Raspberry Pi and create a custom menu/game list in RetroPie and also learn how to use RetroPie and figure out what emulators I need for arcade games and how to merge everything into one game list. Damn.
Post by: Mike A on August 02, 2018, 09:54:55 am
Post by: javeryh on August 02, 2018, 10:35:32 am
Well according to the Pi apostles, it is super easy to do all of that. Good luck.
yeah... I'm not too thrilled about going the pi route but I don't think I can squeeze a traditional PC in the cab. I looked at micro itx and a few other things but it's just too pricey. If anyone has any ideas I'm definitely open to suggestions.
Post by: Malenko on August 02, 2018, 10:59:51 am
Thanks - that looks pretty cool and definitely ties it to the side art. However, I think for simplicity's sake I'm going to leave the lettering as is (plus I already responded to the artist and didn't ask for this change ;D)No worries, it was just a suggestion :)
As for the Pi, I'm less than zero help. My Pi powers the NetDimm in my Multi Naomi2 lol. I'll look for the name of the program when I get home, but it allows you to read/write Ext2/3/4 partitions from windows explorer. Its not free but its like $10 and worth it. I used it for the Multi Naomi and for the Pandora's box hack.
Post by: javeryh on August 03, 2018, 09:43:07 am
Thanks - that looks pretty cool and definitely ties it to the side art. However, I think for simplicity's sake I'm going to leave the lettering as is (plus I already responded to the artist and didn't ask for this change ;D)No worries, it was just a suggestion :)
As for the Pi, I'm less than zero help. My Pi powers the NetDimm in my Multi Naomi2 lol. I'll look for the name of the program when I get home, but it allows you to read/write Ext2/3/4 partitions from windows explorer. Its not free but its like $10 and worth it. I used it for the Multi Naomi and for the Pandora's box hack.
I'll definitely look into it. I'm a complete noob when it comes to the Pi. I have one that I put a 32GB image on and threw into a NESpi case but that took all of 20 minutes following a YouTube video. I don't think I actually learned anything. I did spend another 3 hours getting rid of all the games I'll never play... which could have been all of them since I rarely turn it on. ;D
________________________
OK... this is it.
(https://i.imgur.com/3nz7AOS.png)
Any last comments before I tell the artist to go ahead with a final coloring? I really like it all laid out like this and I think each piece works individually as well as with the rest of the art. This is going to be sweet!!!
Post by: Mike A on August 03, 2018, 09:52:36 am
Post by: javeryh on August 03, 2018, 09:58:01 am
Looks good to me. I will learn to live with the border I guess.
Border still not 100% happening. Once it is colored I'm going to ask to see it without border and with border but UFO behind (so only the robot is popping out).
Post by: JDFan on August 03, 2018, 10:01:59 am
Looks good to me.
I agree -- Only thing of small concern - are you sure of the visible dimensions on the marquee or is a small p[ortion of the grey area possibly going to show through out of the brackets - Might have him make the scene cover a bit more of the grey area so the scene covers the area above and below instead of having a small line of grey showing just in case. ( from the dark border it looks like top and bottom will have grey showing through unless the dark area is not the visible area marked out.)
Post by: Malenko on August 03, 2018, 10:07:05 am
I do love the overall aesthetic and the artist did a great job.
Post by: javeryh on August 03, 2018, 10:25:57 am
Looks good to me.
I agree -- Only thing of small concern - are you sure of the visible dimensions on the marquee or is a small p[ortion of the grey area possibly going to show through out of the brackets - Might have him make the scene cover a bit more of the grey area so the scene covers the area above and below instead of having a small line of grey showing just in case. ( from the dark border it looks like top and bottom will have grey showing through unless the dark area is not the visible area marked out.)
Yes - the artist should be aware of this but I will remind him/her. I need everything to bleed over the edges by at least an inch so we don't run into this issue. It will be hard enough getting the buttons on the CP lined up!
If you're gonna keep the border, I'd have the left side of the UFO in front of it, and the right side behind it. You could maybe tuck the robot's back leg behind the border too for more force perscpective. But it might look like the robot is tripping over it lol.
I do love the overall aesthetic and the artist did a great job.
Thanks - I'll definitely keep that in mind when I see the final piece. I think the border is a "layer" in Photoshop or Illustrator so it is easy for the artist to manipulate.
Post by: JDFan on August 03, 2018, 11:17:41 am
It will be hard enough getting the buttons on the CP lined up!
When printing You should have the Button layer hidden so it does not print the grey holes on the actual print but prints the background layer that is currently covered up by them - that way if they do not line up exactly you will not have the hole outline showing. (they are mainly there during production to show what is ideally being covered up by the buttons and as a reference for the layout but should not be printed.)
Post by: javeryh on August 03, 2018, 02:38:37 pm
It will be hard enough getting the buttons on the CP lined up!
When printing You should have the Button layer hidden so it does not print the grey holes on the actual print but prints the background layer that is currently covered up by them - that way if they do not line up exactly you will not have the hole outline showing. (they are mainly there during production to show what is ideally being covered up by the buttons and as a reference for the layout but should not be printed.)
Thanks for this. I asked the artist to:
1. extend everything by about 1" all the way around so I can trim it back to the MDF after applying it
2. only print the "+" (center points) for the buttons and fill in the circles with whatever background would be there (I'll use the center points to drill my holes)
That's it. I'm pretty excited to see how this is all going to come out.
Post by: javeryh on August 05, 2018, 12:10:54 pm
1. Install a stop for the back door. It can be pushed in about 1/2" and I can't have that. Thinking of using 1/16" black ABS plastic and just gluing it to the lip of the top panel on the inside... unless anyone has any better ideas. I could add battons to the sides that are held in by screws except I'm afraid that I won't be able to get the monitor glass in and out if I need to.
2. Install the magnetic catches for the control panel. Right now there is nothing holding the control panel in place. I don't think hinges will work because there is no where to put a latch where the CP meets the glass. I have 3 cabinet door magnets that should hopefully do the trick.
3. Attach the monitor glass in place. I know how I want to do this but I haven't drilled the holes for the wood clips I made. These will be held down with double sided tape and a screw - they have to be removable.
4. Solder the speaker wires to the speakers in the marquee area and attach the speaker panel (screws)
5. Cut piece of posterboard to fit behind marquee and cover with aluminum foil for the speaker light.
6. Bondo/fill 2 small dents on the cabinet body
I think that's it. Lots of small stuff. If I bang through this today I'll start trying to set up the software side of things. Yikes.
Post by: Mike A on August 05, 2018, 01:17:50 pm
Post by: javeryh on August 05, 2018, 02:51:53 pm
I had some ABS plastic scraps laying around and they work perfectly.
(https://i.imgur.com/KIQcljz.jpg)
I cut them into small rectangles and then busted out the crazy glue:
(https://i.imgur.com/gVvgEiG.jpg?2)
Next, I held the plastic in place on both sides of the cabinet for the recommended 30 seconds. The overhang is 1/4".
(https://i.imgur.com/NLOcMvH.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/wfTzbnx.jpg)
Finished:
(https://i.imgur.com/ot49Asd.jpg)
Definitely the highlight of the whole project. Good luck replicating this - it's almost impossible. The dexterity and ingenuity involved are beyond what the average human can even comprehend.
Post by: javeryh on August 05, 2018, 04:12:49 pm
I busted out the soldering iron so I could solder some wires to the speakers. I had originally snipped the wires in the Amazon Basics speakers I ripped apart so before buttoning up the marquee area I had to solder the wires back on. I had some leftover 18 gauge wires so I just went with it even though the wires in the speakers are like 100 gauge they are so thin.
(https://i.imgur.com/puTbDII.jpg?2)
(https://i.imgur.com/Ed49BqH.jpg)
I was a little rusty so the first connection point took me a couple of tries. There was some solder already on the connection from the factory so I heated that up and attached the wire. Once I had a decent bond, I globbed on (technical term) some more solder to make sure it didn't come apart.
(https://i.imgur.com/P9SERUY.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/sBrTAeE.jpg)
Easy peasy.
The last thing I had to do was screw the panel to the actual cabinet and holy crap I am going to have carpal tunnel's from this. There was absolutely no room for any tool to get in there so I had to use a drill bit and manually screw it in. This took longer than the actual soldering!
Done!
(https://i.imgur.com/0crg53d.jpg)
What can I do next? The magnetic catches are giving me fits - I am afraid of getting in the way of a button because the stupid cabinet magnets are so big and I definitely don't want to do that.... I have another idea involving rare earth magnets... stay tuned!
Post by: Mike A on August 05, 2018, 05:34:31 pm
Post by: javeryh on August 05, 2018, 06:09:42 pm
no magnets. velcro.
The thickness of the velcro will throw things off, unfortunately. That would be easy and I have a roll of the stuff already.
Post by: javeryh on August 09, 2018, 10:39:38 am
What I decided to do was use some wooden clips just screwed in place behind the glass. Easier said than done. This required very precise drilling for the screws in order to avoid any gaps or for the glass to be loose. I also used some double-sided tape in addition to the one screw for each clip for extra strength. Not sure it matters but it can't hurt.
Here are the clips screwed into place. The first picture is at the top of the cabinet. The monitor glass slips up and under the batton that is used to secure the speaker panel and the wood clip holds it in place from behind. This was the easy one.
(https://i.imgur.com/B4m5uXK.jpg)
On the bottom of the glass, there is no such batton or anything to use to hold the front of the glass in place. I also had to worry about gravity because there was noting on the bottom for the glass and bezel to rest on. I decided to use the same aluminum bracket I'm using as a marquee retainer to hold the marquee in place. It is a 1/2" x 3/4" 'L' bracket sprayed black. In order to get this to work, I had to cut a 1/16" slot in the wood clip for the 'L' bracket to slide into. Not sure if you can see it in the picture.
(https://i.imgur.com/KV5NKAN.jpg)
The 'L' bracket is angled to sit flush to the top edge of the control panel. It seems to be working, however, the 'L' bracket is actually just floating and not secure to the cabinet in any way. I have not solved this issue yet and the only thing I can think of is to use some super glue inside the slot so that the 'L' bracket would be permanently attached to the wood clips (but not the cabinet body) so that the 'L" bracket would span the width of the cabinet being held in place by the wood clips (which are screwed to the sides of the cabinet as shown). I think this is the solution but once I bust out the super glue there's no turning back!
Here is a shot of both clips in 1 pic so you can see how it all works (this is obviously done on both sides of the cabinet):
(https://i.imgur.com/jGGC1B6.jpg)
I did manage to stand up the cabinet and take a few pics. The monitor glass and bezel aren't moving and they seem to be secure (and this is without the super glue):
(https://i.imgur.com/H3ePsUl.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/BECUQVq.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/ppspFEn.jpg?1)
Tonight I'm going to take care of the marquee light and continue thinking about how to fasten the control panel to the cabinet while still making it removable. :cheers:
Post by: Mike A on August 09, 2018, 10:52:14 am
Post by: Jimbo on August 09, 2018, 12:19:10 pm
I love the angle of the back, and that it's not dead vertical like mine. Very sylish and streamlined looking. :applaud:
Post by: javeryh on August 09, 2018, 01:11:31 pm
lookin good.
Thanks. Baby steps...
That's looking lovely. Is that tinted glass? toughened/safety? How thick? How far from the monitor screen are you planning on mounting it?
I love the angle of the back, and that it's not dead vertical like mine. Very sylish and streamlined looking. :applaud:
Thanks! It is tinted glass ("gray glass") and it is tempered as well. 1/8" thick. There will be about 1/8" between the glass and the screen due to the thickness of the bezel. I need to figure out how to mount the screen. It is so light that some heavy duty tape on the back of the bezel will probably be enough. I'm also planning on adding a panel of some sort stretching from side to side pressing up against it so it won't move... if that makes any sense.
I can't take credit for the angled back although I love the design. I started out with the plans for grippie's Sega Genesis Bartop (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,141069.0/all.html) and then shrunk it down and tweaked it a little bit to get the design I wanted.
I really can't wait for the art - I think it is going to look really nice. :cheers:
Post by: javeryh on August 11, 2018, 10:01:52 pm
I need to make some notes on things to figure out for the Raspberry Pi so ignore the next part unless you have answers!
1. How do I configure RetroPie to be in 4:3 aspect ratio? Every image I find online is 16:9. Yuck.
2. What emulators do I need for RetroPie to be able to play MAME, Daphne, and other arcade games (CPS, MisfitMAME, etc.)? How do I install them?
3. How do I tell RetroPie to trigger the ServoStik based on the game selected and the controls (4-way/8-way)?
4. Is there a way to merge gamelists so that Pac-Man (on MAME) will appear in the same list as Dragon's Lair (Daphne)?
5. How do I change the overall resolution of RetroPie? The display worked but I could tell the resolution settings in RetroPie were off. I need to force 800x600.
6. How do I remove the Raspberry Pi boot screen? I don't want to see the lines of code and the 3 raspberries - I'd like to substitute this with a custom image.
7. Does the Raspberry Pi provide enough power for marquee LEDs so I can use the USB ports on the Pi (this would help with one button on/off)?
8. Speaking of one button on/off, I do not want to have to go into the menu and shut down RetroPie every time. I'll need to figure out how to have the power button run a shutdown script or buy a third party add on.
9. How do I customize the RetroPie layout (or modify someone else's)? I'd like to boot straight into the game list that has custom graphics with just the marquee and maybe a video snap of the game in action.
I'm sure there are more but that's it for now. Jeez I better get going on this. :cheers:
Post by: javeryh on August 12, 2018, 09:48:57 am
(https://i.imgur.com/yAl4kyV.png)
The artist has finished the side art and marquee and they both look amazing. The only things left to decide are:
- The background and the robot are set to different contrast levels. The robot is higher contrast so it pops out more. The artist said that the contrast could be the same for the entire piece but he/she preferred the different contrast as shown. I agree.
- The number "2007" was added to the robot's chest plate because that was the year my son was born. Nice touch. It is removable of course but it is such a subtle detail I think I'm going to keep it.
- I need to decide on the brightness of the green reflection from the laser (see next pic below). I kind of like the greener version with more reflection to be honest. I could go either way but the neon green seems to be more "80s" and in line with the overall theme.
(https://i.imgur.com/3DA1vbQ.png)
I also have to decide whether I want the border or not. I could also go either way here but I do like the border for some reason. Also, there are two buildings in the background that go against the profile of the side panel right where it starts to curve and it is much more noticeable in the borderless version. Or am I just being picky? I get the sense that the artist likes the borderless version better but my gut tells me the border marries the art to the cabinet better. Tough call.
(https://i.imgur.com/pYLNWSR.png)
I don't think I can go wrong at this point. The artist said once I've made the decision on the contrast, he/she will color the CP art to match.
Getting so close! I'm actually bummed out we are going on vacation because I want to finish! (not really)
:cheers:
Post by: JDFan on August 12, 2018, 11:19:31 am
Post by: javeryh on August 12, 2018, 11:58:32 am
What color T-molding are you using -- I think once it is added the sideart will look better without the border and the coloring from the t-molding will actually become the borderwhen looking at it from the side (and having 2 borders might look a bit off ) - So I'd probably go without the border ( Not to mention the harder time it will be making sure you get the border perfectly lined up when installing - otherwise that extra 1/16th of an inch between the border and edge of the cab on the front or back or top or bottom of the cab will drive your OCD self crazy !! :laugh2: )
I know.
:laugh2:
I'm using WHITE t-molding, which is why I wanted a white border. It will frame the artwork nicely. Lining up the art with the border is a legitimate concern. This is the part where I just want to close my eyes and have someone else finish up - I'm too close to it all. Other than the border, anything else you'd change?
Post by: yamatetsu on August 12, 2018, 01:09:09 pm
Post by: javeryh on August 13, 2018, 02:44:39 pm
Lining up the art with the border shouldn't be too hard. Have the artist do a small border that is just slightly larger than the board, when applying the artwork fold or bend the artwork around the edges, aligning the straight lines of the larger border with the edges. Clamp one half of the artwork down, apply the other half. Unclamp, apply the rest.
Good idea. I'm going to ask for it both ways and print a few test pieces and then make the final call before I order from GameonGrafix.
I think I'm settled on:
1. High contrast on the robot (to make him pop out of the background more)
2. Leave the "2007" on the robot
3. Using the more reflective (greener) version
I'm going to respond to the artist. I'm still blown away by how good this looks. :cheers:
Post by: javeryh on August 15, 2018, 09:17:02 am
(https://i.imgur.com/VVWrXo2.png)
The artist is finishing up the control panel overlay so we are super close to completed artwork! :cheers:
Post by: Mike A on August 15, 2018, 09:19:50 am
Post by: Malenko on August 15, 2018, 09:20:38 am
Post by: javeryh on August 15, 2018, 10:02:07 am
That looks freakin' nice. You like that white border as much as I dislike it. ;D
Haha - yeah, for some reason I've had the border stuck in my head the whole time and seeing it side by side sealed it for me. Blame krangbrain - his Star Wars upright came out awesome and had a sweet border and once I saw that I had to have it.
With the shading, the depth perception of the UFO in front of the white line isn't as bad. The artist did a great job.
I agree. I'm VERY impressed with the artist. Top tier work, reasonable price, communication was fantastic and he/she had tons of patience with my little tweaks. Would definitely recommend and if I need art for the next cabinet (which is happening) I will try to hire him/her again.
Post by: Mike A on August 15, 2018, 10:05:27 am
Quote
Would definitely recommend and if I need art for the next CRTcabinet (which is happening) I will try to hire him/her again.
FTFY
Post by: opt2not on August 15, 2018, 02:12:36 pm
I would have got the artist to update the pose a bit, making him less leaned over (balancing the body more), and angle the gun differently so the position of his hilt hand isn't at the crotch, or the gun point directly perpendicular from his body.
But of course if you like it that's all that matters. ;)
Post by: Mike A on August 15, 2018, 02:15:34 pm
Quote
I also still can't unsee the phallic nature of the pose.
You seem to be pretty fixated on his robo junk. ;D
Post by: opt2not on August 15, 2018, 02:26:42 pm
Post by: javeryh on August 15, 2018, 07:27:48 pm
Post by: krangbrain on August 16, 2018, 01:55:45 am
Post by: Richie_jones on August 16, 2018, 03:44:18 pm
Builds looking nice
Post by: javeryh on August 16, 2018, 03:57:10 pm
This Artwork is great...Did you mention who you were working with??
Builds looking nice
Thanks! The artist's name is Rusembell and you can contact him/her here: https://www.deviantart.com/rusembell (https://www.deviantart.com/rusembell)
Love it. Border or no border this cab is going to be fantastic. And I like the color of the title. I didn’t at first, but I do now that I see it on the cab.
Thanks! It is coming out nicely - in theory. I still have plenty of room to screw it up. It is going to take me forever to figure out how to get the software working properly. I wish there was room for a PC inside because that would make things so much easier. I was poking around and there are mini solutions like THIS (https://www.amazon.com/x5-Z8350-Processor-1000Mbps-Fanless-Computer/dp/B072WNWRHQ/ref=sr_1_4?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1534448390&sr=1-4&keywords=beelink%2Bm1&th=1) but I don't really want to sink another $150 into this thing if I can avoid it.
Right now I have a Raspberry Pi 3B+ and a 32GB microSD card that I'm trying to figure out. I can get RetroPie 4.4 working (bare bones) and add games to it but I don't like how it looks out of the box with all of the menus and options visible and I have no idea how to customize the layout. Also, all of the preset layouts are way too busy for my tastes. I just want one list of games (for all emulators) with the marquee and either a screen shot or a video snap. Simple.
Another thing I don't like is I don't want to have to go to a "shutdown" menu to turn everything off. With MAME and a front end like MaLa I can use a pushbutton to power the cab on straight to a gamelist and power it off when I'm done (and safely shut down the computer) with no way to access hidden menus and stuff. With RetroPie there seems to be too many ways for the player to screw up the settings. I'm probably just cranky because it is new and scary - I'll keep reading up on it.
:dunno
Post by: Jimbo on August 17, 2018, 05:15:43 am
I guess it also depends how many games you want on the bartop... if it's a select few (say 50 or less) then it becomes easier to tailor each one if you need to.
On my bartop I want mame to be used by the arcade controls, but then snes and a few other consoles to be able to use usb controllers (I have 8bitdo ones)... so that's another complication for me that I'll have to overcome.
It's a bit daunting but I think just spending some time with it will make a lot of things clearer. :cheers:
Post by: javeryh on August 17, 2018, 09:33:31 am
You'll get there. I'm in the same boat. I've checked youtube out and there are a bunch of videos showing pre-made retropie SD card setups with a nice UI etc. They usually link to the SD card image in the comments (or you can find them on usenet). Trouble is, most of them are set up for widescreen 1080p and they have bezel artwork to cover the black-bar areas. I have a 5:4 dell so I'll need to tweak the hell out of mine and remove the bezel artwork (all so far easy to do via the menus). There's also a script that you can get the pi to shutdown cleanly by attaching a button to the GPIO pins, but I haven't tried that yet - I just also use the menus atm.
I guess it also depends how many games you want on the bartop... if it's a select few (say 50 or less) then it becomes easier to tailor each one if you need to.
On my bartop I want mame to be used by the arcade controls, but then snes and a few other consoles to be able to use usb controllers (I have 8bitdo ones)... so that's another complication for me that I'll have to overcome.
It's a bit daunting but I think just spending some time with it will make a lot of things clearer. :cheers:
Sounds like we are in exactly the same boat. I want to do all of the things you mentioned. One thing that I'm getting stuck on is the layout. 99% of the pi images I've seen are ridiculous with the movies and art and the wheel with all the game names that use the marquee fonts, etc. It is too much. I need simple (but not bland). Ideally, I'd just copy Vidiot's pi set up and somehow change the background slightly and the boot screen. His is Centipede themed to match his cab otherwise it's perfect.
____________
Got the final CP overlay. I like it. It's simple yet goes with the overall theme (remember the buttons and joystick balltop are WHITE).
(https://i.imgur.com/VEj8j1d.png)
Pretty sure the art is done!
EDIT: Actually, I just noticed that the transition between the top and the front needs to be smoother (no line). The CP is rounded over so any line in this location could look weird depending on where it ends up on the curve. Not sure how to explain this.
Post by: yamatetsu on August 17, 2018, 01:09:51 pm
Made a gradient that goes over the front curve. Would work better if the top color of the front piece were a bit darker so that the gradient woundn't be so extreme.
Post by: javeryh on August 17, 2018, 01:36:55 pm
Made a gradient that goes over the front curve. Would work better if the top color of the front piece were a bit darker so that the gradient woundn't be so extreme.
Thanks - that's exactly what I meant. I need some margin of error (2-3 mm) because I'm not 100% sure everything is going to line up perfectly. It should be close though. A hard line would make any imperfection really stand out if one side was off by even a little bit.
The artist asked what format I want the files in - does it matter? I want the photoshop file but he said he could send it in TIFF or PNG or whatever too.
Post by: JDFan on August 17, 2018, 02:11:29 pm
Made a gradient that goes over the front curve. Would work better if the top color of the front piece were a bit darker so that the gradient woundn't be so extreme.
Thanks - that's exactly what I meant. I need some margin of error (2-3 mm) because I'm not 100% sure everything is going to line up perfectly. It should be close though. A hard line would make any imperfection really stand out if one side was off by even a little bit.
The artist asked what format I want the files in - does it matter? I want the photoshop file but he said he could send it in TIFF or PNG or whatever too.
IF you get the photoshop file with the layers you can always export it to those formats from photoshop (unless you do not have photoshop) - so if you have photoshop no need for the others but if you don't then you'll want whatever format your printer is going to need.
Post by: Malenko on August 17, 2018, 02:16:31 pm
Post by: JDFan on August 17, 2018, 02:50:13 pm
PSD for sure (for the editable layers), don't know why they couldn't send a PNG or something with it.
Hopefully he doesn't flatten the image and/or merge the layers before sending it - in case you later decide to change the control panel layout or something (though it sounds like (S)he is not too concerned over ownership of the file so probably wont happen)
Post by: Malenko on August 17, 2018, 03:02:48 pm
Post by: javeryh on August 17, 2018, 03:03:37 pm
Post by: Malenko on August 17, 2018, 03:10:39 pm
Post by: Richie_jones on August 17, 2018, 04:51:23 pm
With some clever mounting you could get a small pc in there...
Post by: javeryh on August 17, 2018, 05:41:43 pm
Personally id avoid the Pi, surely you can fit a mini at or smaller in there.. Are you aware of the XU4 , like the pi but alot more powerfull. Its in its infancy though with retropie, still works well...
With some clever mounting you could get a small pc in there...
I've gone back and forth in my head a bunch of times. I think something like a Beelink M1 would fit but I don't really want to spend another $150 on this thing. Also, I'd still have to take the mini computer apart to get access to the pins for the power button so that would be a pain (maybe). I don't know. If anyone knows where I can get a small cheap computer I'd consider it assuming it was powerful enough.
Post by: rave0035 on August 17, 2018, 05:57:54 pm
Nicely done!
Post by: Arimack on August 24, 2018, 06:46:34 pm
7. Does the Raspberry Pi provide enough power for marquee LEDs so I can use the USB ports on the Pi (this would help with one button on/off)?
On my build I found that my rasberry pi 2 could not power the USB light I bought directly. The light flickered the whole time the pi was on. I tried using a powered USB hub to power both as I had one lying around. The light worked but the pi kept flashing the low power icon onscreen.
I ended up buying a 2 USB port power supply instead and plugging my pi into one port and the light in the other. Didn't need the powered USB hub anymore. The white USB cord goes to the light while the black cord goes to the pi. Other two plugs are the monitor and the speakers. You still get the one button switch and its not a big cost increase.
(https://i.imgur.com/22wWxKO.jpg?1)
Post by: Ond on August 24, 2018, 09:26:27 pm
Post by: FALSE on August 24, 2018, 11:55:51 pm
Post by: javeryh on August 26, 2018, 06:44:24 pm
This is really, really cool. The artist did a great job.
Nicely done!
Thanks! I'm quite pleased with how it came out (see below)!
7. Does the Raspberry Pi provide enough power for marquee LEDs so I can use the USB ports on the Pi (this would help with one button on/off)?
On my build I found that my rasberry pi 2 could not power the USB light I bought directly. The light flickered the whole time the pi was on. I tried using a powered USB hub to power both as I had one lying around. The light worked but the pi kept flashing the low power icon onscreen.
I ended up buying a 2 USB port power supply instead and plugging my pi into one port and the light in the other. Didn't need the powered USB hub anymore. The white USB cord goes to the light while the black cord goes to the pi. Other two plugs are the monitor and the speakers. You still get the one button switch and its not a big cost increase.
(https://i.imgur.com/22wWxKO.jpg?1)
Thanks for the info. I popped the USB strip into the pi and it seemed to be working OK... I'm not sure at all how I'm going to hook everything up though. If there was a way to power a motherboard with a tiny power supply I could squeeze inside the cab I might forego the pi altogether. I've been trying to set everything up and it's not as easy as I had hoped. I think I'll get there eventually but it is a lot of trial and error. I am working on a gamelist - if I start there I can work backwards...
This is great! Very crisp and fun artwork. Welcome back to building again, you were one of my early idols in the hobby fer sure. :cheers:
Thanks Ond - I'm glad you are back as well. Hard to stay away. Even as I was building my [urlhttp://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,105618.0.html]home theater[/url] the last few years I always wanted to get back to building cabs. This project was supposed to be a quick one to get back into it but of course with a family and tons of other distractions it never goes how you think it will!
Dont know if it's to late for this but you can get the Mars Attacks! font online for free with a quick search. I'm going to be using it on my build. It would look cool on your marquee if that's the look you wanted.
I saw that - the fonts I found didn't look quite right to me so I initially asked the artist to hand draw it in a similar style but as the project evolved I didn't think that font fit any more. I can't wait to see what you come up with though!
__________
Alright - after spending the last week in Disney World (awesome time but I'm exhausted) it is time to finish up this project. While I was away, I got the FINAL artwork files - both PNG and PSD. Tomorrow at work (ugh) I'll print everything and make sure it all lines up tomorrow night and then it's off to the real printer. Here is where things ended:
(https://i.imgur.com/KIW0IjT.png)
(https://i.imgur.com/gYU3xKX.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/DRJYgVV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/k7tQ4WG.jpg)
I can't say it enough but I am blown away by how this came out. What started with a rough idea we were able to fully flesh out over 6-7 weeks of back and forth. I will not hesitate to use hire this artist again.
I just hope I can do it justice and get this across the finish line. :cheers:
Post by: JudgeRob on August 26, 2018, 09:20:02 pm
Post by: PL1 on August 27, 2018, 01:01:41 am
If there was a way to power a motherboard with a tiny power supply I could squeeze inside the cab I might forego the pi altogether.Depending on the motherboard power requirements, a Pico PSU (https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Box-picoPSU-160-XT-Power-Mini-ITX-Supply/dp/B005TWE6B8/) or mini ITX PSU (https://www.amazon.com/FSP-Solution-80Plus-Supply-FSP300-60FAG/dp/B0176DXSLG/) might work.
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/41l2-6NHFCL.jpg) (https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/61PlIdSnKOL._SL1000_.jpg)
Scott
Post by: TheGreatRedDragon on August 27, 2018, 01:04:23 am
Post by: javeryh on August 27, 2018, 09:11:11 am
If there was a way to power a motherboard with a tiny power supply I could squeeze inside the cab I might forego the pi altogether.Depending on the motherboard power requirements, a Pico PSU (https://www.amazon.com/Mini-Box-picoPSU-160-XT-Power-Mini-ITX-Supply/dp/B005TWE6B8/) or mini ITX PSU (https://www.amazon.com/FSP-Solution-80Plus-Supply-FSP300-60FAG/dp/B0176DXSLG/) might work.
Scott
Thanks Scott - I'm going to do some measurements tonight. I've got an old motherboard lying around that should still be able to run MAME quite well. The power supply feeding it is huge though. Not sure I can squeeze it in but it is worth a look.
That artwork is phenomenal.
Thanks! I hope it looks 1/2 as good once it is applied to the cabinet. This has been the big road block for me.
What do you guys think about applying the CP art and then drilling out the holes? Will a Foerstner bit chew up the art completely or can I get a clean cut though the CPO? I'm trying to figure out how to accurately line everything up - my plan was to line up the art and us an awl to punch a hole through the "+" for each button and the joystick location. Then using the hole as a starting point for the bit, drill the holes through the CPO and MDF in one shot. This will guarantee the art will line up perfectly. If I drill the holes and then try to place the art, being off by even 0.5 mm will be noticeable. Any ideas?
Post by: JDFan on August 27, 2018, 09:39:02 am
IF you need to line up the art you could always tape the art on top of the CP with a few pieces of painters tape without removing the backing then once it's lined up drill the center holes through both - remove the art - drill the holes in the MDF - clean the surface - put on the art - cut the holes through the art with the exacto knife following the cut holes in the MDF
Post by: yamatetsu on August 27, 2018, 09:49:10 am
- apply the artwork
- use the awl to punch a hole through the +
- use a small drillbit to drill holes through the punched holes all the way through the mdf
- clamp a scrap piece of wood onto the top of the CP
- turn the whole thing upside down
- use the forstner bit to drill the holes, making sure that you are well into the scrap wood before you stop drilling
Post by: javeryh on August 27, 2018, 12:55:41 pm
___________
So... I'm trying to print the art files on paper just to make sure everything lines up properly and I have no idea how to print them to the proper size. I have PNG files, which seem to want to print to the size of the paper and not the size of the file, and PSD files, which I can't even open because I don't have Photoshop. Can anyone explain how to do this? Everything is located HERE (https://drive.google.com/file/d/1s-KL1_-ht989xmbQKBT2tVAsMkaMwcEG/view) if it helps.
Also, the PNG files were sent at 200 dpi but the artist said this can easily be changed to 300 dpi if necessary. I was under the impression that 300 dpi is what should be used for printing. I need some help with that too!
:cheers:
Post by: firedance on August 28, 2018, 02:29:21 am
should be able to open the PSD files but sometimes doesn't like some layers, worth a try ?
Post by: Drnick on August 28, 2018, 02:40:32 am
Post by: javeryh on August 31, 2018, 09:43:54 am
The good news though is that the art looks fantastic printed out and taped to the cabinet (ignoring the off center border). I can't wait to finish this thing up.!
Post by: Arroyo on August 31, 2018, 09:57:29 am
Really like the way this is turning out. Can’t wait to see the final product.
Post by: Malenko on August 31, 2018, 10:35:34 am
Post by: javeryh on August 31, 2018, 11:09:28 am
The white border would have to be removed from BOTH side art files (the original and the mirror). Also, if it is easy enough, in addition to the revised PSD files, can you make a PDF file out of both of them that I can print at home for testing? Just want to be 100% sure of everything before sending it off to the real printer. If one of you could do this for me it would be a huge help!
:cheers:
Post by: Malenko on August 31, 2018, 11:18:13 am
Post by: javeryh on August 31, 2018, 12:32:43 pm
if he hasnt already done it by the time I get home, I'll take care of it
Thanks!! :cheers:
Post by: Arroyo on August 31, 2018, 04:48:01 pm
Post by: Malenko on August 31, 2018, 04:57:27 pm
Post by: Arroyo on August 31, 2018, 04:59:59 pm
Post by: Malenko on August 31, 2018, 05:03:56 pm
EDIT: Is this what you want? (screen grab attached) or do you want the white outline around the cab axed as well?
Post by: javeryh on September 01, 2018, 09:57:38 am
I'm on CC 2014 I'll give it a go. I miss having access to the entire adobe line, but I dont have that job anymore.
EDIT: Is this what you want? (screen grab attached) or do you want the white outline around the cab axed as well?
Thanks! The only thing I need removed is the thicker double white lines that the robot and the UFO are on top of (that are actually part of the art). The other outer lines are guide lines for applying the art. The entire piece is about 3/4" larger all the way around than it needs to be.
Post by: Malenko on September 02, 2018, 02:09:28 pm
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1SjaXncNjyqs2QLhWqsQKkPjaPxEdcXS_
if anything needs changed, LMK. Just tell me when you want the files deleted and I'll pull em down.
Post by: javeryh on September 04, 2018, 10:16:35 am
I saved them as uncompressed PNGs.
https://drive.google.com/open?id=1SjaXncNjyqs2QLhWqsQKkPjaPxEdcXS_
if anything needs changed, LMK. Just tell me when you want the files deleted and I'll pull em down.
Thanks so much. I'm DLing them now and if I have some time at work today I'll print it out for testing. I hope to place the real art order this week...
Post by: firedance on September 13, 2018, 02:22:29 am
Just a thought, from eBay.co.uk a similar pc can be bought for around £70, maybe a similar price range from your eBay ?
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-OptiPlex-3010-SFF-Desktop-i3-3220-3-30GHz-1TB-HDD-4GB-RAM-NO-OS-AVA/192607859695?hash=item2cd852b3ef:g:cHcAAOSweUlbNm~q (https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dell-OptiPlex-3010-SFF-Desktop-i3-3220-3-30GHz-1TB-HDD-4GB-RAM-NO-OS-AVA/192607859695?hash=item2cd852b3ef:g:cHcAAOSweUlbNm~q)
Post by: firedance on September 13, 2018, 02:43:05 am
So the SFF motherboard should be smaller but would have a larger PSU to deal with ???
Post by: javeryh on September 13, 2018, 01:05:18 pm
No real update to report - I have pretty much finalized the art and just need to place the order to have it printed. With school started and soccer, guitar lessons, flag football, etc. in full swing I haven't had much time to work on this thing. Once we get into a routine and I can predict my schedule a little better I will get going on this again - I still plan on finishing by Halloween. Once I apply the art I will actually be just about finished with the build part... just have to drill holes for the CP.
I have been messing with the Raspberry Pi and I've decided to try and create my own image. I must have flashed my 32GB microSD card 25 times by now LOL. I can get other people's images up and running but they are all far too bloated with crap for my tastes. I have also figured out how to put the "stock" Retropie image on there and load up a few ROMs. Now I just need to figure out how to create a layout, set up one button on/off, disable settings and some other stuff. :cheers:
Post by: JDFan on September 13, 2018, 01:38:23 pm
So the SFF motherboard should be smaller but would have a larger PSU to deal with ???
Correct - Though many of the SFF ( or USFF ) actually use an external PSU ( like a laptop PSU ) where the PSU is actually an external brick that could actually be placed outside the cabinet or in a different part of the cab with just the power wire running to the MOBO.
Like this dc7900 for $40 shipped ( PSU pic below ) -- https://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-Compaq-dc7900-Desktop-PC-Ultra-Slim-3-16GHz-2GB-RAM-w-Power-Supply/401518640040?hash=item5d7c603ba8:g:zl4AAOSw6Mxax-zS (https://www.ebay.com/itm/HP-Compaq-dc7900-Desktop-PC-Ultra-Slim-3-16GHz-2GB-RAM-w-Power-Supply/401518640040?hash=item5d7c603ba8:g:zl4AAOSw6Mxax-zS)
(https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/lQ0AAOSwG4Ba2QgG/s-l1600.jpg)
Post by: firedance on September 13, 2018, 01:39:02 pm
Post by: firedance on September 13, 2018, 01:41:10 pm
So the SFF motherboard should be smaller but would have a larger PSU to deal with ???
Correct - Though many of the SFF ( or USFF ) actually use an external PSU ( like a laptop PSU ) where the PSU is actually an external brick that could actually be placed outside the cabinet or in a different part of the cab with just the power wire running to the MOBO.
yeah, that's true of usually USFF like you've pointed out, looks like that would still be too large for this build, pi is the way to go :)
Post by: PL1 on September 13, 2018, 05:44:37 pm
Now I just need to figure out how to create a layoutInstead of creating a theme from scratch, it is much easier to re-skin an existing one.
https://retropie.org.uk/docs/Themes/ (https://retropie.org.uk/docs/Themes/)
For example, "tronkyfran" is the same as "simple", but with different background pictures for the System menu.
(https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wetriner/es-theme-gallery/master/tronkyfran.png) (https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wetriner/es-theme-gallery/master/tronkyfran-gamelist.png)
(https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wetriner/es-theme-gallery/master/simple.png) (https://raw.githubusercontent.com/wetriner/es-theme-gallery/master/simple-gamelist.png)
The theme files are located in /etc/emulationstation/themes/, but you might have problem directly accesing/altering them due to file/directory permissions.
IIRC, here's the workaround I used:
- Load retropie on one SD and Raspbian (GUI) on another
- Boot to Raspbian GUI with the retropie SD in a USB reader and a thumbdrive with the desired pictures
- Open two file manager windows and go to /media where you'll find the thumb drive and the retropie SD directories
-- Navigate one window to the pictures on the thumb drive (source)
-- Navigate the other window to the theme, system, art directory with the pictures you want to replace (target)
- In the source window, copy the path
- In the target window, pulldown menu Tools -- "Run a command from current window"
-- If the filenames match ==> sudo cp [ctrl-V to paste path]/filename.jpg
-- If the filenames don't match ==> sudo cp [ctrl-V to paste path]/thumbdrive_filename.jpg filename.jpg
Scott
Post by: barrymossel on September 14, 2018, 05:15:01 am
Post by: javeryh on September 15, 2018, 02:17:50 pm
On the artwork front, I think the border dream is over - this is the best I could do. It’s just not lining up like I had hoped and I really need to pull the trigger on ordering the art.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20180915/185b51ca83ecabda70b14d8ecffb6fdf.jpg)
I think it will still look OK without it and hopefully the white t-molding will make it pop.
Any recommendations on the material to print on? Gameongrafix has a lot of choices. I want to make this somewhat high quality so it can withstand some wear and tear.
I’ll be printing the marquee, side art and CP art. Looking forward to finishing up this project...
... so in can start the next one!
Post by: opt2not on September 15, 2018, 02:36:31 pm
Post by: javeryh on September 15, 2018, 03:05:53 pm
That border really does distract from the art.
I'm glad to hear it - I'm sure it will look great without it. I just might have wanted to fill in the space between the UFO and robot and maybe to the right by the rock formation. Maybe some smaller UFOs in the distance or something. I'm totally nitpicking...
Post by: opt2not on September 15, 2018, 03:11:24 pm
Post by: javeryh on September 29, 2018, 06:45:19 pm
I had to cut everything down to the proper size - I ordered it large on purpose because I wanted a snug fit on the final install. This meant creating a template out of MDF, using double sided tape and attaching the plexiglass and then using a pattern bit and my router to make 2 exact copies of the plexiglass the exact size of the marquee. Once that was finished I trimmed the marquee to fit and sandwiched it between the plexiglass for the install.
Next, I got out the aluminum brackets I sprayed black and used some tape to hold everything in place while I drilled the holes. Then I added the screws (black #4 - 1/2" - very tiny), removewd the tape and plugged in the lights to test everything. It worked! Here are a few pics I snapped.
(https://i.imgur.com/wFVgKVx.jpg?1)
(https://i.imgur.com/e7Yjfrx.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/qcxqel8.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/iIuPHxY.jpg)
Next up is the control panel. I'm a little nervous - I've decided to apply the art, punch the center holes and just drill everything out with the forstner bit. I really want this to be accurate. If there is some tearing hopefully the bezel around the buttons will hide it. The bit is brand new so fingers crossed... :cheers:
Post by: Mike A on September 29, 2018, 07:54:34 pm
Post by: javeryh on October 01, 2018, 09:35:20 am
The marquee looks great.
Thanks. I'm quite pleased with how it came out but I am ready to wrap this project up and move on to the next one.
This week I hope to finish the control panel - I've decided to use blue painter's tape over the buttons for when I drill through the artwork to hopefully reduce tearing. I also need to figure out how to get the CP to attach to the cabinet body, which is kind of a big deal. Not sure how to handle it yet... because of the tight fit I need to install all of the buttons before figuring out a hinge or whatever. Not sure how much room I'll have but I'll figure something out...
Post by: Arroyo on October 01, 2018, 09:53:11 am
Post by: yamatetsu on October 01, 2018, 10:25:31 am
[/quote]
Glue some battens to the right and the left insides of the cab and velcro the CP to them. I used this for my Pinup cab, that CP is going nowhere.
Post by: javeryh on October 01, 2018, 11:23:08 am
Colors on the lit marquee look fantastic.
Thanks. It looks even better in person. Gameongrafix really delivers!
I also need to figure out how to get the CP to attach to the cabinet body, which is kind of a big deal. Not sure how to handle it yet...
Glue some battens to the right and the left insides of the cab and velcro the CP to them. I used this for my Pinup cab, that CP is going nowhere.
[/quote]
I have battens in place already but the thickness of the velcro will throw things off. Right now the CP is a perfect fit as is. Maybe I can add another batten to the inside but recessed the thickness of the velcro? Not sure there is room for that though.
Post by: yamatetsu on October 01, 2018, 11:33:54 am
Post by: javeryh on October 01, 2018, 12:19:01 pm
If you have a router, you can shave off the height of the velcro at the underside of the CP at both sides, so that it sits flush.
hmmm....
Post by: JDFan on October 01, 2018, 12:32:12 pm
If you have a router, you can shave off the height of the velcro at the underside of the CP at both sides, so that it sits flush.
Or even a chisel - figure the batons are pretty soft wood so shouldn't take much to chisel out a few spots deep enough to add the velcro and keep the same height !
Post by: javeryh on October 17, 2018, 11:44:48 am
Here is the before and after shot so you guys can see the difference - really nice job. He even fixed other problem areas (not just the marquee where it was obviously off). All of the curves follow the edge of the cab a lot nicer. Huge thanks to Arroyo - this is going to look sweet!
... assuming I can actually place the art properly when the time comes! Thinking about it is making my brain hurt. ;D
(https://i.imgur.com/CHimLqx.jpg)
Next step is finishing off the control panel - problem is finding the time to actually do it. I'm hopeful this Saturday will be productive. Wife and kid going to NYC for a show. Other 2 kids with me and we have flag football in the morning, then soccer and then baseball but otherwise the day will be open.. wait... that doesn't sound open...
:angry:
Post by: Arroyo on October 18, 2018, 09:53:33 am
Post by: javeryh on October 20, 2018, 03:29:12 pm
Forced me to get off my @$$ and get a new version of Photoshop - so probably should be thanking you :cheers:
Haha - either way I'm really grateful for the assist. :cheers:
So this afternoon I managed to make a little more progress on the CP. Takes me 3 hours to do something that in my head feels like a 20 minute job. Anyway, here's what I did:
- Added some bondo to a corner that had gotten chipped when I made the panels way back when. I mixed up a batch, slapped it on and awaited 30 minutes for it to dry.
- Sanded the entire CP smooth.
- Hit it with 2 coats of BIN Zinsser primer from a rattle can
- Sanded the entire CP smooth. It's not perfectly flat but I don't think it has to be because the CPO material is so thick it will hide any small imperfections in the panels. I am using the good stuff from GameOn Grafix.
- Wiped down the entire thing with a damp rag to remove dust and let it dry.
- Used my trusty Awl to punch the holes in the CPO where the buttons and joystick will go.
- Used a few spring clamps to hold the CPO down in the right place using the holes to line everything up (I had previously marked the hole locations on the control panel).
- Very carefully peeled back the bottom half of the CPO and cut off the plastic backing with some scissors. It is worth noting that I cut the backing oss above the bend in the CP. I thought it would be best if I had the top part stick down in place at least a little bit right away.
- Slowly pressed the CPO to the CP working from the bend in the middle down to the bottom to make sure there were no air bubbles
- Removed the clamps and peeled off the remaining plastic backing to the CPO
- Slowly pressed the CPO to the CP working from the bend in the middle up to the top to make sure there were no air bubbles
- Used a razor to trim away the overhang (the CPO was about 1/2" larger than the CP all the way around on purpose). This was BY FAR the hardest part. I had a fresh razor but still didn't get an absolutely **perfect** line. Close enough so that no one will notice but still... This is a great reminder why I would NEVER make a cab to sell to someone.
Here we go:
(https://i.imgur.com/ZxLcOl9.jpg)
Chipped corner:
(https://i.imgur.com/9qncPpD.jpg)
Bondo!
(https://i.imgur.com/FMYP4xk.jpg?1)
Sanded:
(https://i.imgur.com/W4fRIHv.jpg)
Primed:
(https://i.imgur.com/gi04U0g.jpg)
Ready for Art!
(https://i.imgur.com/LBMrDiu.jpg)
Clamped:
(https://i.imgur.com/cg2zFpa.jpg)
Finished!
(https://i.imgur.com/WnPmQY7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Z2arL4G.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8vI78Cw.jpg)
I hope to drill out the holes tomorrow. The plan is to cover the areas to be drilled with painters tape to avoid any tearing. Going to be tricky because the front panel is 3/4" thick so I need to remove extra material from the back so that the Japanese buttons can clip into the holes. :cheers:
Post by: Jimbo on October 20, 2018, 05:36:55 pm
Post by: javeryh on October 20, 2018, 06:32:39 pm
Good job. I have all this fun to come...
Thanks. It is fun. But stressful somehow. I know it won't come out perfect and I know I'll see the imperfections from now until the end of time but it should be good enough to fool most everyone else! I am a little worried about the buttons fitting. I measured a ton but I have feeling there is some dremel work in my future behind the front panel...
Post by: javeryh on November 12, 2018, 01:03:38 pm
After living with the CPO for a few days as shown a few posts up, I decided I didn't really like the white area that covers the bend in the CP. It wasn't aligned 100% on the curve and was really distracting to the overall design. Also, due to poor measuring on my part the buttons on the front were about 7/32" (5.5mm) too high. Any attempt at drilling out the holes meant I'd clip the top panel and getting the buttons nuts on seemed like it would be impossible without major dremel work as shown here:
(https://i.imgur.com/3PXkM7o.png)
Arroyo graciously redesigned the layout:
Before:
(https://i.imgur.com/BjMPmj7.png)
After:
(https://i.imgur.com/cJKK0c3.png)
The white line is gone and the top area blends nicely into the bottom area. It's going to look great.
With the side art and CPO fixed Arroyo even created a Sketch-up model for me to show what (I hope) the finished product will look like.
(https://i.imgur.com/EO5u442.png)
I'm motivated to finally finish this up. I'm ordering the artwork this week and hoping it arrives before Thanksgiving weekend when I should have a few days to work on it.
HUGE thanks to Arroyo. He has gone above and beyond in helping me out. Now it's up to me to get it over the finish line... :cheers:
Post by: Jimbo on November 12, 2018, 06:23:50 pm
Arroyo's sketchup skills are clearly better than mine! :notworthy:
Post by: Arroyo on November 13, 2018, 09:20:30 pm
Post by: javeryh on November 15, 2018, 03:33:35 pm
Post by: javeryh on November 28, 2018, 01:25:20 pm
I know I have problems but the more I stared at the marquee the more and more I disliked what I had done with the installation. As I think I mentioned already, in order for everything to fit, I centered the image on the marquee (the UFO + lettering) and did not center the lettering itself. Bad move. I thought the letters being off center would add something interesting to the design but I was wrong. There is a reason that marquees center the lettering (for the most part I'm sure there are examples out there like Tempest or whatever). So I had it reprinted and I recut it making sure the letters were centered in the frame. The UFO gets a little cut off but not by much and I think this is much more pleasing to the eye.
Here are the before and after shots (the after isn't lit but you get the idea):
Before
(https://i.imgur.com/HmoDnDc.jpg)
After
(https://i.imgur.com/rzBHZr4.jpg)
Next up was the CPO. Version 1.0 did not line up properly - I hated the white line separating the top and front panels and the art was a little crooked as you tell by the line running across the top edge. The worst part was that the buttons on the front of the CP were about 3/16" too high up so there would not be enough room to drill without hitting the top panel. Arroyo did an awesome job tweaking things for me (cleaned up the colors and lowered the 4 front panel buttons). Version 2.0 of the CPO went on very easy and it looks great. Here is the before and after:
Before
(https://i.imgur.com/8vI78Cw.jpg)
After:
(https://i.imgur.com/yR0xGkJ.jpg)
I also have the vinyl side art, which I plan to install either one day after work this week or sometime on the weekend. I am a bit stuck though on what to do. The vinyl is oversized so that I can trim back to the edge of the cab with a razor. How can I line up the art perfectly? I have that white border running all the way around that is offset from the edge by 3/4" or so. This needs to be as close to uniform as possible but when I lay the art over the side panel I can't see the edges!
In order to solve this problem I cut a piece of plexiglas with my pattern bit and router to exactly match the side panel. Then I can lay the plexiglas on top of the art and get it perfect and then move the art + plexi to the side panel and try to line up the edges. The issues I'm having are (1) getting the vinyl art to "stick" underneath the plexi so that I can move the art and plexi as one piece to the side panel to line up (scotch tape?) and (2) the vinyl art is in between the plexi and the side panel so it is difficult to line up the edges exactly with the vinyl art in the way.
I'm not even sure I'm making sense. I've done side art before but I've never had to be so precise when laying it down. Is there a trick I'm missing? :cheers:
Post by: Mike A on November 28, 2018, 01:35:49 pm
Lining up the side art would be much easier without that white border line. If only someone would have suggested that....
All of that aside, I really like the artwork on your cab. Everything from the design to the colors is excellent.
Post by: javeryh on November 28, 2018, 01:54:14 pm
I liked the marquee better the other way. :dunno
Lining up the side art would be much easier without that white border line. If only someone would have suggested that....
All of that aside, I really like the artwork on your cab. Everything from the design to the colors is excellent.
Haha thanks. I remember a certain someone suggesting I ditch the white border. Oh well... wait until you see it - the colors are awesome. The whole thing pops.
As for the marquee, it is super easy to swap out so I'm going to live with the current version for a while. I will admit the actual pictures make the first one look WAY better due to the back lighting. Who knows, since I can't stop harping on stuff I'll probably change my mind 5 more times before finishing up. there's actually not that much more to do:
1. Install side art
2. Install t-molding
3. Drill out button holes
4. Install buttons and wire everything up.
5. Play some Final Fantasy VII... haha no. I'm thinking Metal Slug will be first game I boot up. Can't wait!
Post by: yamatetsu on November 28, 2018, 05:05:41 pm
I also have the vinyl side art, which I plan to install either one day after work this week or sometime on the weekend. I am a bit stuck though on what to do. The vinyl is oversized so that I can trim back to the edge of the cab with a razor. How can I line up the art perfectly? I have that white border running all the way around that is offset from the edge by 3/4" or so. This needs to be as close to uniform as possible but when I lay the art over the side panel I can't see the edges!
In order to solve this problem I cut a piece of plexiglas with my pattern bit and router to exactly match the side panel. Then I can lay the plexiglas on top of the art and get it perfect and then move the art + plexi to the side panel and try to line up the edges. The issues I'm having are (1) getting the vinyl art to "stick" underneath the plexi so that I can move the art and plexi as one piece to the side panel to line up (scotch tape?) and (2) the vinyl art is in between the plexi and the side panel so it is difficult to line up the edges exactly with the vinyl art in the way.
I'm not even sure I'm making sense. I've done side art before but I've never had to be so precise when laying it down. Is there a trick I'm missing? :cheers:
Align the plexi and the vinyl. Doubletape the vinyl to the plexi so that it can't move around. Cut the vinyl along the plexi edges. Remove the doubletape. Apply the vinyl to the cab.
Post by: Arroyo on January 15, 2019, 01:25:20 am
1. Install side art
2. Install t-molding
3. Drill out button holes
4. Install buttons and wire everything up.
5. Play some Final Fantasy VII... haha no. I'm thinking Metal Slug will be first game I boot up. Can't wait!
Ahem.......well?
Post by: javeryh on January 15, 2019, 09:21:56 am
1. Install side art
2. Install t-molding
3. Drill out button holes
4. Install buttons and wire everything up.
5. Play some Final Fantasy VII... haha no. I'm thinking Metal Slug will be first game I boot up. Can't wait!
Ahem.......well?
yeah... about that... soon - I promise! Too much real life and I can't seem to get ahead of it. :cheers:
Post by: firedance on January 15, 2019, 10:51:13 am
Post by: javeryh on March 02, 2019, 01:00:28 pm
HUGE thanks to Arroyo for finalizing the art and keeping me motivated. Thanks bud. :cheers:
(https://i.imgur.com/stOs2hq.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/H7H66do.jpg)
More later. I'm going to *try* and make some serious progress this weekend... I want to install the t-molding so bad but the CP ned to be finished first I think because it is a tight fit as is and the t-molding might make getting it in and out very difficult.
Anyone got any ideas on how to actually attach the CP so that it can be removed somewhat easily for maintenance? :cheers:
Post by: wp34 on March 02, 2019, 07:46:02 pm
Post by: Mike A on March 02, 2019, 09:03:33 pm
Post by: Jimbo on March 03, 2019, 06:12:18 am
Quote
Anyone got any ideas on how to actually attach the CP so that it can be removed somewhat easily for maintenance?
I had the same issue with my Videotron bartop, and solved it with brass inserts and small black domed hex bolts. Granted you can see the bolts in the corners, but they're pretty low profile, and it's a breeze to take the CP off and put back on now. It depends whether you want anything visible like that or not.
Post by: javeryh on March 03, 2019, 10:07:57 am
That artwork is really amazing. The design is great and the colors pop. :applaud:
Thanks - I'm really happy with how it is coming out. Definitely a one-of-a-kind piece. I treat my cabs more like a piece of art instead of something that is supposed to be functional, which is why everything takes 10x longer than it should.
Looks great. Would have been better with my artwork though.
I kind of agree but it's too late for this project, unfortunately. Maybe the next one...
Looks great mate - cracking artwork! :applaud: Glad you finally got around to it!QuoteAnyone got any ideas on how to actually attach the CP so that it can be removed somewhat easily for maintenance?
I had the same issue with my Videotron bartop, and solved it with brass inserts and small black domed hex bolts. Granted you can see the bolts in the corners, but they're pretty low profile, and it's a breeze to take the CP off and put back on now. It depends whether you want anything visible like that or not.
Thanks! I'l have to go reread your project thread again for the details. I'm not opposed to the hex bolts. I've been thinking of how I was going to secure the joystick to the CP and bolts that go all the way through and show are the best I could come up with. The MDF is only 1/2" so just screwing in from the bottom might not work over time. The black looks fine and blends in (plus lots of classic cabs had bolts showing).
Where did you buy the bolts? :cheers:
Post by: Mike A on March 03, 2019, 10:38:05 am
Post by: Arroyo on March 03, 2019, 10:53:16 am
I bet black T-molding would look good too, I can mock it up in SketchUp if you’d like.
Post by: Jimbo on March 03, 2019, 11:12:06 am
Thanks! I'l have to go reread your project thread again for the details. I'm not opposed to the hex bolts. I've been thinking of how I was going to secure the joystick to the CP and bolts that go all the way through and show are the best I could come up with. The MDF is only 1/2" so just screwing in from the bottom might not work over time. The black looks fine and blends in (plus lots of classic cabs had bolts showing).
Where did you buy the bolts? :cheers:
I got the bolts and the threaded inserts from Ebay I believe... although I'm in the UK. But I'm guessing they do those sorts of things your side of the pond. Good luck!
Post by: javeryh on March 03, 2019, 11:35:03 am
I’m probably more than a little bit bias :D, but that looks awesome!
I bet black T-molding would look good too, I can mock it up in SketchUp if you’d like.
Thanks again. I'm pretty set on the white t-molding... mainly because I already bought it. ;D
I got the bolts and the threaded inserts from Ebay I believe... although I'm in the UK. But I'm guessing they do those sorts of things your side of the pond. Good luck!
Thanks - I'll take a look. I may take a ride to Harbor Freight or Home Depot this afternoon and poke around. This seems like the best solution for me. 4 bolts should do the trick and I avoid clunky hinges. I'm thinking 1 bolt in each corner will get it done. Just need to add blocking on the inside for the threaded insert.
Post by: javeryh on March 04, 2019, 12:56:52 pm
Part 1 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i6gHIDOgGms#)
Part 2 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V_Uw1LLp4Fg#)
Part 3 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5E-PWzDdgT4#)
Part 4 (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JU8iY00peBM#)
(https://i.imgur.com/HF9is09.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/j2snh02.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/mWbJWrz.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Ao0Cage.jpg)
What I actually ended up doing was:
- Trim the side art to roughly the size I wanted with some scissors.
- Place plexiglas bezel on top of the artwork and eyeball it to line everything up. I have a decent eye for this stuff so it wasn't too hard. I confirmed measurements with a ruler going all the way around and it was mostly dead on.
- Use double stick tape to hold the plexiglas bezel to the artwork.
- Run a VERY sharp (brand new) razor along certain straight sections of the plexiglas and remove the excess artwork.
- Lightly clean the surface of the side panel with glass cleaner to remove debris.
- Using the exposed edges of the plexiglas panel, line it up with the actual side panel and clamp down in place.
- Remove the plexiglas (carefully)
- Lift up one side of sideart, remove backing, cut away with scissors and then apply art to cabinet panel with squeegee to remove air bubbles.
- Repeat for other end
- Use razor to remove excess sideart that is overhanging the panel. This is not as easy as a lot of videos make it look. It took several passes and some patience for me to get it exactly right.
- Repeat all steps for the other side panel.
More later. I'm motivated to finish this up but kind of scared to death to drill holes in my CP. :cheers:
Post by: Jimbo on March 04, 2019, 02:42:41 pm
Post by: javeryh on March 11, 2019, 01:26:24 pm
Looks ace mate :) :applaud: Scary part done. I had to enlist the missus to help with mine!!
Thanks Jimbo. I made some more progress over the weekend. It's not going fast but I am getting there. I spent about 2 hours drilling out 7 holes in my control panel for the face buttons and joystick. I ran into some issues but I think I can overcome all of them. Anyway here are some videos and pics. Not sure why I keep making these awful videos but whatever.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ZAFbs3ALINs
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vxZNooYsoNA
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NSjiX6DG37Y
OK, we pick up from the videos here and at this point I've drilled down 1/4" for each of the buttons. This was not easy at all. I was using a brand new 30mm forstner bit and the CP material is very difficult to drill through. It is awesome because it will resist wear and tear but drilling the buttons wasn't easy. The bits also didn't drill through 100% clean like a razor would but it did a good enough job that any rough edges are hidden by the button bezels. I was going about 1/16" at a time and cleaning/vacuuming each hole as I went so it took a while. I also don't own a drill press so I had to make sure I was as perpendicular to the CP as possible. The button placement is so tight that being off by 1/8" would ruin it.
(https://i.imgur.com/7kvhVBt.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xoJGaSA.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KEXiYHB.jpg)
Next, I flipped over the CP to drill out the buttons from underneath for the button nuts:
(https://i.imgur.com/aNLead3.jpg)
Look how crazy tight the buttons are going to be!
(https://i.imgur.com/O6YRAv8.jpg)
And here is everything drilled out:
(https://i.imgur.com/0B8Wr3E.jpg)
And some shots with all the buttons in place:
(https://i.imgur.com/AkNjPvC.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5xNK3U3.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/N5Cv2lP.jpg)
One thing I'm not a fan of is the black dustwasher. I think I'm going to swap it out for a white one. Also, I'll go into more detail on another post but the joystick placement is going to be tough to get just right. The mounting plate sticks out of the top of the control panel by about 1/8" more than I would like it to. I could lower the stick by that amount but then this throws off the symmetry of the CP artwork (the dustwasher will not be centered in the box). Not sure what to do yet but I'm leaning towards trimming the plate a little bit if possible. Not sure. I'll take some pics later tonight so you guys can see what I mean and hopefully come up with something.
Overall, I really like how this is coming out. The reason I didn't drill out the 4 admin buttons was because I did not own a 24mm bit. I was going to fake it with a 1" bit but decided against it after doing a few test holes. So I spent the $11 on Amazon and the bit will arrive tomorrow. Once those holes are finished I just need to figure out how to attach the CP to the cabinet with the hex bolts I picked up. Then construction wil be complete and I'll just have to install the monitor, add t-molding, and wire everything up. So close! :cheers:
Post by: leapinlew on March 11, 2019, 08:13:05 pm
Nice work.
Post by: leapinlew on March 11, 2019, 08:13:44 pm
Post by: Arroyo on March 11, 2019, 08:19:15 pm
Like the button outlines you have on the front of the panel:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190312/57bc076657abf30fa235df8eaa77f9de.jpg)
Give some contrast but keeps with the theme.
EDIT: Couldn't help myself:
(http://newforum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376251;image)
Post by: GSXRMovistar on March 12, 2019, 09:06:31 am
Post by: javeryh on March 12, 2019, 01:03:47 pm
Freakin stud!
Nice work.
Thanks Lew - been a looooong time coming. I'm relearning everything on this build but having a lot of fun with it. I wish I had more room in my house so I could just keep building.
Haven't logged in to here in ages but after going through this thread I had to post a comment, great looking machine and look forward to seeing it all complete. 8)
Thanks! I'm also looking forward to it. ;D
I have a lot of stuff to figure out though. Mainly getting the ServoStik to talk to the Raspberry Pi/Retropie. I think that's my biggest remaining challenge. I also want to make a custom splash/loading screen for the front end. Not sure how to do that either.... slow and steady!
For the dust washer, what if you borrowed some of the graphics you had and got a clear dust washer with the graphics adhered to the bottom?
Like the button outlines you have on the front of the panel:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190312/57bc076657abf30fa235df8eaa77f9de.jpg)
Give some contrast but keeps with the theme.
EDIT: Couldn't help myself:
(http://newforum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376251;image)
Sick! yeah - let's do that! How do I do this? Clear dustwasher and then the decal? Any chance you can create the decal for me at the correct size so I can get it printed? I can get you measurements of the dustwasher tonight. What a great solution! :cheers:
Post by: Arroyo on March 12, 2019, 01:31:59 pm
EDIT: Couldn't help myself:
(http://newforum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=376251;image)
Sick! yeah - let's do that! How do I do this? Clear dustwasher and then the decal? Any chance you can create the decal for me at the correct size so I can get it printed? I can get you measurements of the dustwasher tonight. What a great solution! :cheers:
I can edit the file to any size washer you want, just scale it up or down, it’s high resolution so no sweat. I just did this for my panel, came out great although I’m not sure if the graphics work on mine.
You can either get a place to reverse print it with the adhesive on the front of the graphics (I only tried one place and didn’t like the results, saw some of the adhesive.). What I did was get the print and use Optically Clear Adhesive (OCA if searching) and then attached the graphic on the underside of the acrylic dust washer with some white vinyl under the graphic to protect it.
I bought a stupid amount of OCA and have some clear dust washers. If you pick your printer I can either send you the material or put it together for you and send if you’d like...
Could simplify this if you put the graphics on top of the washer as a lot of places have adhesive backed prints. Either way happy to help.
Post by: WaRpEd on March 13, 2019, 05:32:04 pm
Post by: javeryh on March 14, 2019, 11:46:42 am
I can edit the file to any size washer you want, just scale it up or down, it’s high resolution so no sweat. I just did this for my panel, came out great although I’m not sure if the graphics work on mine.
You can either get a place to reverse print it with the adhesive on the front of the graphics (I only tried one place and didn’t like the results, saw some of the adhesive.). What I did was get the print and use Optically Clear Adhesive (OCA if searching) and then attached the graphic on the underside of the acrylic dust washer with some white vinyl under the graphic to protect it.
I bought a stupid amount of OCA and have some clear dust washers. If you pick your printer I can either send you the material or put it together for you and send if you’d like...
Could simplify this if you put the graphics on top of the washer as a lot of places have adhesive backed prints. Either way happy to help.
Awesome - thanks for the offer as usual. I think I might have a clear dust washer lying around. I'll have to check. It probably would look cool if the graphic was adhered underneath but probably harder to get just right. I'll try it both ways and see how it goes. I'm guessing spray adhesive will leave some visible residue between the print and the plastic? I'm definitely going to play around with it because I love the idea.
I think all I'll need is the art file once I get you the measurement of the dust washer. :cheers:
Very nice work Javeryl! I need to get off my butt and finish my cabinet
Thanks! I know what you mean - it's hard to find the time to work on these projects.
My plan this weekend is to drill out the admin button holes (the 24mm bit arrived yesterday), mount the joystick and figure out a way to attach the CP to the cabinet. If I can get that finished on Saturday between all the kid activities I'll go ahead and add the t-molding and try and secure the monitor in place. That's really all I have left on the construction side of things. The rest will be figuring out Retropie... ugh.
Mounting the joystick might end up being a pain due to the mounting plate being a little larger than I wish it was. What do you guys think about routing out 1/4" of material to drop the mounting plate into? Right now the CP is 1/2" thick - I don't really mind the height of the joystick as-is but that extra 1/4" depth may save me from having to somehow make the mounting plate shorter. Here is what I'm talking about:
(https://i.imgur.com/px6WSmx.png)
Of course, this doesn't take into account mounting bolts, which I hope would not get in the way. I cannot really move the joystick location because it would throw off the symmetry of the CP. I would also have to drill completely through the top of the CP in order to secure the joystick in place (so bolt heads will show). Not a huge deal but curious to hear how you guys would deal with this issue. :cheers:
Post by: Arroyo on March 14, 2019, 12:22:43 pm
I'm guessing spray adhesive will leave some visible residue between the print and the plastic?
Haven't tried that but I'm guessing it would. In my research the Optically Clear Adhesive was the only viable solution. Print shops do have the reverse prints which have adhesive already on the front, but I saw splotches on the one I ordered, and with the OCA I don't. As mentioned I have a lot of it if you want me to send you some as they seem to be only for sale in larger quantities, but maybe you would want the extra on hand for future projects.
Quote
I'm definitely going to play around with it because I love the idea.
I think all I'll need is the art file once I get you the measurement of the dust washer. :cheers:
Sounds good, I'll wait to hear from you.
Post by: Jimbo on March 14, 2019, 04:34:25 pm
Quote
Mounting the joystick might end up being a pain due to the mounting plate being a little larger than I wish it was. What do you guys think about routing out 1/4" of material to drop the mounting plate into? Right now the CP is 1/2" thick - I don't really mind the height of the joystick as-is but that extra 1/4" depth may save me from having to somehow make the mounting plate shorter. Here is what I'm talking about:
(https://i.imgur.com/px6WSmx.png)
Of course, this doesn't take into account mounting bolts, which I hope would not get in the way. I cannot really move the joystick location because it would throw off the symmetry of the CP. I would also have to drill completely through the top of the CP in order to secure the joystick in place (so bolt heads will show). Not a huge deal but curious to hear how you guys would deal with this issue. :cheers:
I'd say first off, determine how it plays being shorter vs longer... pick the one you prefer. Don't skimp on playability over the hassle of having to shave the mounting plate - you'll kick yourself. Secondly, bolts showing is cool. :cheers:
Post by: yamatetsu on March 14, 2019, 04:37:03 pm
I cannot really move the joystick location because it would throw off the symmetry of the CP. I would also have to drill completely through the top of the CP in order to secure the joystick in place (so bolt heads will show). Not a huge deal but curious to hear how you guys would deal with this issue. :cheers:
Is there enough space to mount the joystick sideways? Turn it 90 degrees and wire it accordingly?
Post by: Richie_jones on March 14, 2019, 05:28:31 pm
Post by: mountain on March 14, 2019, 07:27:16 pm
Post by: opt2not on March 14, 2019, 07:36:19 pm
Post by: javeryh on March 14, 2019, 08:01:00 pm
Sounds good, I'll wait to hear from you.
OK - I measured the dustwasher and it is exactly 2" in diameter. It's a Sanwa and is made for sticks without the cover around the shaft (smaller hole). I don't have a clear one but I went ahead and ordered 2 of these: https://www.focusattack.com/clear-31mm-1-16-acrylic-dustwasher-fits-sanwa-jlf-without-shaft-cover/. It is a different size than the one I have (31mm vs. the ~51mm Sanwa).
When you size the image, can you make it a few different sizes? Like 1-15/16", 2", 2-1/16" for the 2" cover and 30mm, 31mm and 32mm for the one I just ordered? This way, I could just print them all and use the one that fits best. There is a slight lip around the dustwasher so maybe placing the decal inside of that would be best... not sure but I don't think printing a bunch will cost that much more. What do you think? I'm open to suggestions on how to make this work!
I'd say first off, determine how it plays being shorter vs longer... pick the one you prefer. Don't skimp on playability over the hassle of having to shave the mounting plate - you'll kick yourself. Secondly, bolts showing is cool. :cheers:
Good call! I'll see what I'd prefer. Honestly, I don't think the 1/4" will make a difference in playability but you never know...
Is there enough space to mount the joystick sideways? Turn it 90 degrees and wire it accordingly?
Unfortunately, no. I tried this when I got home from work and it didn't fit. I am using a ServoStik and it has a motor attached to the side of the joystick to turn the restrictor plate so the footprint is quite large.
How about removing some of the mounting plate. Looking at mine I could lose an 1/8 and still be able to use same bolt holes.
If I don't sink it into the CP I will definitely remove some of the mounting plate. I checked and I can definitely remove enough and still preserve the bolt holes. What should I use to cut the metal? The mounting plate is kind of thick...
WOW! Blast from the past! Nice to see you still active. Your work is always spot on, great job. I'm due for a bartop someday.
mountain holy crap! Nice to hear from you - hope all is well. Get going on that bartop so you can put mine to shame! :cheers:
Post by: Arroyo on March 14, 2019, 10:34:30 pm
Sounds good, I'll wait to hear from you.
OK - I measured the dustwasher and it is exactly 2" in diameter. It's a Sanwa and is made for sticks without the cover around the shaft (smaller hole). I don't have a clear one but I went ahead and ordered 2 of these: https://www.focusattack.com/clear-31mm-1-16-acrylic-dustwasher-fits-sanwa-jlf-without-shaft-cover/. It is a different size than the one I have (31mm vs. the ~51mm Sanwa).
I’ve ordered those and they are rather small in my opinion:
Focus Attack:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190315/8235d6dcd485e22ecec77e66a4a9d7ac.jpg)
Graphic under clear dust washer (Sanwa JLF standard diameter):
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190315/361ab4f29d20363ffd502142eb693324.jpg)
Comparison:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190315/efdc24116abc82019a68332a68e25e53.jpg)
Quote
When you size the image, can you make it a few different sizes? Like 1-15/16", 2", 2-1/16" for the 2" cover and 30mm, 31mm and 32mm for the one I just ordered? This way, I could just print them all and use the one that fits best. There is a slight lip around the dustwasher so maybe placing the decal inside of that would be best... not sure but I don't think printing a bunch will cost that much more. What do you think? I'm open to suggestions on how to make this work!
Sure thing. You want it in separate files or all in one?
EDIT:
BTW: the Sanwa JLF’s I measure at 1.48inches:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190315/c3a1334ecae6cd14bcc4c7ee9132e447.jpg)
I grabbed the servo stick I have and yes the dust washer is much bigger:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190315/c3b214fba18fa0e81aefcc9dd7595410.jpg)
The shaft diameter is the same. What I didn’t mention is that I bought the clear dust washers from Art’s hobbies:
http://www.tek-innovations.com/arthobbies/?loc=products&cat=7&subcat=&item=46 (http://www.tek-innovations.com/arthobbies/?loc=products&cat=7&subcat=&item=46).
He has the the JLF size standard, but can cut any size you want.
Post by: Mike A on March 15, 2019, 05:36:43 am
Post by: Richie_jones on March 15, 2019, 08:05:19 am
Post by: Arroyo on March 15, 2019, 08:20:40 am
You ordered clear acrylic dust washers from some dirty stranger? I am insulted. Time to go cry in my beer.
Ah Mike you know I only have eyes for you ;-). Yeah ask Mike for the dustwashers he does great work, and he party’s like a rock star. Beer at 5am on a Friday eh Mike?
Post by: Mike A on March 15, 2019, 08:32:44 am
Guinness Beef Stew and toast for breakfast.
A nip of Kilbeggan whiskey.
My wife was Irish. I am practicing Irish.
Post by: Arroyo on March 15, 2019, 09:05:47 am
(https://i.pinimg.com/236x/a6/c8/2c/a6c82c5224e058f253e3fb8c262869a0.jpg)
Sorry Javery, couldn’t help myself, poor attempt at humor.
Post by: javeryh on March 15, 2019, 02:26:34 pm
Focus Attack:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190315/8235d6dcd485e22ecec77e66a4a9d7ac.jpg)
Graphic under clear dust washer (Sanwa JLF standard diameter):
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190315/361ab4f29d20363ffd502142eb693324.jpg)
Comparison:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190315/efdc24116abc82019a68332a68e25e53.jpg)
EDIT:
BTW: the Sanwa JLF’s I measure at 1.48inches:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190315/c3a1334ecae6cd14bcc4c7ee9132e447.jpg)
I grabbed the servo stick I have and yes the dust washer is much bigger:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190315/c3b214fba18fa0e81aefcc9dd7595410.jpg)
The shaft diameter is the same. What I didn’t mention is that I bought the clear dust washers from Art’s hobbies:
http://www.tek-innovations.com/arthobbies/?loc=products&cat=7&subcat=&item=46 (http://www.tek-innovations.com/arthobbies/?loc=products&cat=7&subcat=&item=46).
He has the the JLF size standard, but can cut any size you want.
Thanks for the pics. I think I actually like the smaller ones better. The 2" dust washer takes up most of the yellow box on the CP and it's too much. So if the smaller dust washers will work, let's go with that. So I only need 30mm, 31mm and 32mm diameters on the art (I think). Separate files are probably best - when I send them to Scott at gameongrafix I think his printed will cut the vinyl to the exact size I need. Last thing I want to do it try and cut out a circle with a razor by hand!
You ordered clear acrylic dust washers from some dirty stranger? I am insulted. Time to go cry in my beer.
Sorry Mike - had I known...
Just use a grinder with metal disk to remove section of plate..
I'm going to have to buy this tool. I have a dremel - maybe one of the attachments will work? Hacksaw seems like it would take forever and just sticking it under the chop saw seems like a recipe for disaster... I'm going to post some pics of the issue so you can get a better idea what I mean.
Post by: Arroyo on March 15, 2019, 02:41:49 pm
So I only need 30mm, 31mm and 32mm diameters on the art (I think). Separate files are probably best - when I send them to Scott at gameongrafix I think his printed will cut the vinyl to the exact size I need. Last thing I want to do it try and cut out a circle with a razor by hand!
I placed the graphic on first and then used an Exacto to follow the dust washer like a template, just like installing sideart. I'd suggest getting a few printed as it can be difficult to get the alignment right. May want to get a couple that aren't pre-cut in case the larger size material helps with alignment (more for your hands to grip on to).
I'll work on the art files and send it your way as soon as possible. Question, the circle graphics in the front vary a little, did you have a preference? I used the one on the very left, under the joystick, but maybe you like the one on the right better.
Post by: javeryh on March 15, 2019, 02:57:02 pm
So I only need 30mm, 31mm and 32mm diameters on the art (I think). Separate files are probably best - when I send them to Scott at gameongrafix I think his printed will cut the vinyl to the exact size I need. Last thing I want to do it try and cut out a circle with a razor by hand!
I placed the graphic on first and then used an Exacto to follow the dust washer like a template, just like installing sideart. I'd suggest getting a few printed as it can be difficult to get the alignment right. May want to get a couple that aren't pre-cut in case the larger size material helps with alignment (more for your hands to grip on to).
I'll work on the art files and send it your way as soon as possible. Question, the circle graphics in the front vary a little, did you have a preference? I used the one on the very left, under the joystick, but maybe you like the one on the right better.
OK - so you actually cut them out yourself? I can give that a shot (even though I struggled with the side art haha). I don't have a preference on the art. Whatever you think will look best.
So the second pic you posted is a clear dust washer with the vinyl graphic on the bottom? It looks great.
Post by: Arroyo on March 15, 2019, 03:01:16 pm
OK - so you actually cut them out yourself? I can give that a shot (even though I struggled with the side art haha). I don't have a preference on the art. Whatever you think will look best.
So the second pic you posted is a clear dust washer with the vinyl graphic on the bottom? It looks great.
Yup, and it actually has some issues in that the vinyl graphic I used had a thicker material underneath it with adhesive put on by the printing company. Didn’t cut as smoothly as I would have liked. With standard vinyl like I have on the main graphics of my control panel however it’s much easier. So shouldn’t be too bad. Bigger issue is getting the alignment right and choosing your adhesive.
Post by: javeryh on March 15, 2019, 06:14:09 pm
Yup, and it actually has some issues in that the vinyl graphic I used had a thicker material underneath it with adhesive put on by the printing company. Didn’t cut as smoothly as I would have liked. With standard vinyl like I have on the main graphics of my control panel however it’s much easier. So shouldn’t be too bad. Bigger issue is getting the alignment right and choosing your adhesive.
OK cool - I'm going to go for it. Seems doable.
Here's a stupid video of what is going on with the joystick mount:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kgLkOO-G54o
What is the best way to cut the plate? A grinder of some sort seems like it would work but I honestly have no idea as I have never worked with metal before and this is a fairly thick/solid piece.
And here are some pics:
This is probably the best shot to give you an idea of the issue.
(https://i.imgur.com/yWhm0Gy.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8j4xH3h.jpg)
Here's an overhead shot - super tight fit! The motor just barely fits in there. Going to be fun to wire this panel up!
(https://i.imgur.com/MP0hMSR.jpg)
This is probably where I'd have to cut. Clears the bolt holes... although the bolts might present an issue if they are close enough to the angled section (I think it will be OK).
(https://i.imgur.com/15Vf501.jpg)
Post by: JDFan on March 15, 2019, 08:58:11 pm
Post by: PL1 on March 15, 2019, 09:06:45 pm
I have a dremel - maybe one of the attachments will work?
What is the best way to cut the plate? A grinder of some sort seems like it would work but I honestly have no idea as I have never worked with metal before and this is a fairly thick/solid piece.There are a number of cutoff wheels that can cut through that plate.
I'd recommend the 426 (https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-426-Fiberglass-Reinforced-Cut-Off/dp/B00004UDH9/) (5 pack) or 426B (https://www.amazon.com/Dremel-426B-4-Inch-Reinforced-Cut-Off/dp/B000PDWEDS) (20 pack) reinforced wheel.
(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71eFgL9cypL._AC_UL480_QL65_.jpg) (https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51v1Bc8glUL._AC_UL480_QL65_.jpg)
If your Dremel came with them, 420 wheels might work, but they will wear out very quickly and break very easily.
(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51hsxC2BFhL._AC_UL480_QL65_.jpg)
Angle grinder for $10 from harbor freight would do it !True, but it's more of a chainsaw than a scalpel. :lol
Scott
EDIT: Forgot to mention the EZ456 or EZ456B if you have the EZ Lock mandrel.
(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61DByimJeKL._AC_UL480_QL65_.jpg)
Post by: JDFan on March 15, 2019, 09:12:27 pm
True, but it's more of a chainsaw than a scalpel. :lol
Scott
Yep but they'll cut through just about anything and for the price it's definitely worth having around next time you've got to cut through something ! :cheers:
Post by: Richie_jones on March 16, 2019, 03:24:16 am
Post by: firedance on March 16, 2019, 01:26:48 pm
maybe slower but can be more precise, defo no angle grinder, will only end in tears :o
could always saw it off - https://www.harborfreight.com/12-in-hacksaw-62780.html
Post by: Laythe on March 16, 2019, 07:09:55 pm
Post by: javeryh on March 25, 2019, 02:55:07 pm
Revised Punch List:
- Drill 4 holes in front of CP for admin buttons using forstner bits
- Drill 4 holes in corners of CP for bolts to attach CP to cabinet
- Either (1) route out 1/4" of material under CP to recess joystick and drill 4 holes for through bolts to hold joystick in place OR (2) use 1/2" screws from under side of CP to hold joystick in place. I'd like to do #2 because it is easier but I am not sure if the screws will come loose over time.
- Print dust washer art
- Install t-molding
- Install monitor to inside of cabinet against bezel
- Polish edges of clear dust washer with Novus
- Attach dust washer art to bottom of clear dust washer
- Figure out how to control ServoStik motor with Raspberry Pi
- Create splash screen or intro video for Raspberry Pi boot
- Configure Raspberry Pi
- Wire everything
I think that's it. Not too much left. I hope to at least finish the CP stuff, monitor install and t-molding by the end of this coming weekend. Software stuff will take me a little while because of my brain deficiencies in that area. :cheers:
Post by: yamatetsu on March 25, 2019, 04:16:50 pm
(2) use 1/2" screws from under side of CP to hold joystick in place. I'd like to do #2 because it is easier but I am not sure if the screws will come loose over time.
Just put insert-nuts into the holes. They'll hold the screws.
Post by: PL1 on March 25, 2019, 05:00:53 pm
For #2, threaded inserts with wide, flat outer threads are your friend.
- Either (1) route out 1/4" of material under CP to recess joystick and drill 4 holes for through bolts to hold joystick in place OR (2) use 1/2" screws from under side of CP to hold joystick in place. I'd like to do #2 because it is easier but I am not sure if the screws will come loose over time.
GGG inserts are great.
(https://web.archive.org/web/20150923042506im_/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/images/thumb/0/0b/GGGThreadedInserts.jpg/120px-GGGThreadedInserts.jpg)
Ultimarc inserts are great.
(https://web.archive.org/web/20150923044039im_/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/images/thumb/9/96/UltimarcThreadedInserts.jpg/120px-UltimarcThreadedInserts.jpg)
Inserts with narrow outer threads are . . . not-nearly-as-good for MDF. They are designed for hardwood.
(https://web.archive.org/web/20150923164037im_/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/images/thumb/8/80/BadThreadedInsert.jpg/111px-BadThreadedInsert.jpg)
Check out "Mounting controls in the control panel -- Hardware", "Under mount (threaded inserts)", and "Under mount (support blocks)" sections in the FAQ.
https://web.archive.org/web/20160809113045/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ#Joysticks (https://web.archive.org/web/20160809113045/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ#Joysticks)
Scott
Post by: javeryh on March 26, 2019, 09:30:52 am
For #2, threaded inserts with wide, flat outer threads are your friend.
- Either (1) route out 1/4" of material under CP to recess joystick and drill 4 holes for through bolts to hold joystick in place OR (2) use 1/2" screws from under side of CP to hold joystick in place. I'd like to do #2 because it is easier but I am not sure if the screws will come loose over time.
GGG inserts are great.
(https://web.archive.org/web/20150923042506im_/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/images/thumb/0/0b/GGGThreadedInserts.jpg/120px-GGGThreadedInserts.jpg)
Ultimarc inserts are great.
(https://web.archive.org/web/20150923044039im_/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/images/thumb/9/96/UltimarcThreadedInserts.jpg/120px-UltimarcThreadedInserts.jpg)
Inserts with narrow outer threads are . . . not-nearly-as-good for MDF. They are designed for hardwood.
(https://web.archive.org/web/20150923164037im_/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/images/thumb/8/80/BadThreadedInsert.jpg/111px-BadThreadedInsert.jpg)
Check out "Mounting controls in the control panel -- Hardware", "Under mount (threaded inserts)", and "Under mount (support blocks)" sections in the FAQ.
https://web.archive.org/web/20160809113045/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ#Joysticks (https://web.archive.org/web/20160809113045/http://newwiki.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?title=FAQ#Joysticks)
Scott
Thanks - just ordered from GGG. Hopefully it arrives by the weekend!
Looks like I'm cutting the mounting plate back instead of sinking it, which I think is the right call. The extra 1/4" height in the joystick doesn't matter and on a build this small I think having the stick sit a little bit lower works better (won't block the screen, looks good proportionately, etc.). :cheers:
Post by: meltman on March 26, 2019, 09:34:22 am
Post by: javeryh on April 08, 2019, 11:48:22 am
I agree, cutting the plate is the right call. Excited to see this one come together. Great craftsmanship.
Thanks! I'm taking my time (obviously) but also finding the time has been extremely difficult. I think it is the perfect storm of the ages of my kids. There is always something I have to go to or shuttle them to, etc. There is barely any time to keep the house running (groceries, laundry, lawn care, etc.) never mind extra time for hobbies. Things are actually less stressful at work than they are at home!
Anyway, I drilled some holes and cut the joystick mounting plate this past weekend. It's progress!
The process was the same as the action buttons:
- use an awl to mark the center
- drill 1/4" down (this time with a 24mm forstner bit)
- use 1/16" drill bit to drill through center all the way through the panel
- use larger forstner bit from the back so that there is room for the button nut
Here's a front shot of all 4 buttons drilled down 1/4" except the one to the far right is finished.
(https://i.imgur.com/VfIkTAC.jpg)
Here's a close up of the front - I used painter's tape to try and preserve the art.
(https://i.imgur.com/agFFNAg.jpg)
Here's a close up of the back. You can see the other pilot holes to the right of the hole that is drilled where the other buttons would go. This entire process would be MUCH easier with a drill press but I don't have one so I had to just wing it.
(https://i.imgur.com/lt0sQhB.jpg)
All 4 button holes are drilled out and ready for test fitting.
(https://i.imgur.com/RbiN0lX.jpg)
Looking good. I was nervous about the buttons on the end because they had to be dead on due to the art - I think it came out pretty nice.
(https://i.imgur.com/jrJkiEG.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/9UC5Cp8.jpg)
This is how it will look when the cabinet is finished in 2025.
(https://i.imgur.com/ReMn5FK.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HE9ckpw.jpg)
I'm going to need to make some button inserts for the admin buttons so people will know what they do. I'm not sure exactly what I'm going to call them. The button on the far left will probably be "Exit" and the button on the far right will probably be "Pause" but the middle 2 are kind of weird. For MAME, one of them will need to be "Coin" and the other "Start" but for any consoles they will need to be "Select" and "Start". I probably should have thought this through...
Post by: Jimbo on April 08, 2019, 12:04:36 pm
Having a dedicated EXIT button is a good idea. On my Videotron bartop I used the Retropie default of START+COIN to exit from games, and because I put those two buttons together, it's quite easy to hit them both at the same time when you're trying to coin up and start a game (kids do this like mad putting loads of coins in all the time). In hindsight I'd have separated the buttons a little. So you'll probably want to remove that configuation so it doesn't happen on yours :)
Post by: javeryh on April 09, 2019, 10:54:38 am
Looking good! :applaud: Scary stuff done!
Having a dedicated EXIT button is a good idea. On my Videotron bartop I used the Retropie default of START+COIN to exit from games, and because I put those two buttons together, it's quite easy to hit them both at the same time when you're trying to coin up and start a game (kids do this like mad putting loads of coins in all the time). In hindsight I'd have separated the buttons a little. So you'll probably want to remove that configuation so it doesn't happen on yours :)
Thanks Jimbo - I'm also concerned about accidentally hitting the Exit button but I'm not sure I want to complicate matters by adding a hot key function or something. I'm really undecided on the admin button functionality. I know I want Exit and Pause and I need P1 Start at least and probably Select for console games if I decide to add any but not sure how to set everything up. That's future me's problem when I start trying to configure everything.
This weekend I should be able to attach the CP to the cabinet. After going back and forth in my head a million times I'm leaning towards using 4 rare Earth magnets - that should be enough to hold it in place while playing. I'm just not ready to drill holes all the way through the CP! If they don't work, I could always add the through bolts later on... probably. This leads me to the second thing I'm going to do - install the joystick using the undermount kit from GroovyGameGear. The issue is that the bolts and inserts are 1/2" so it leads me to believe they are meant for 3/4" panels. But with the thickness of the joystick mounting plate (1/16") plus the thickness of the artwork (1/64") and maybe a washer I think I could drill down about 3/8" and make it work. I will need to be super steady with the drill, which makes me nervous.
If I get these things done, I'll install the monitor and t-molding and then start trying to hook everything up. Finish line is in sight.
I did manage to cut the joystick mounting plate with my Dremel on Sunday. It wasn't too bad although I probably could have been a little neater.
(https://i.imgur.com/gROZa0P.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/5bPsSsH.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/RJd7pN9.jpg)
Seems like it will work. :cheers:
Post by: Mike A on April 09, 2019, 10:57:18 am
Post by: javeryh on April 09, 2019, 11:25:05 am
How many Dremel discs did you shatter?
Haha - zero actually. I was wicked nervous about it though. I did it in steps - cut about 1/2" on the line and then cut perpendicular to remove that piece and repeated this all the way across. I noticed quickly that I couldn't cut it all in one shot because the disc could get jammed easily. I was also worried that a piece of metal was going to go flying too. Had the heavy duty safety goggles on and everything. I cut it outside on my work bench even though the pics were taken in my basement where I've been working on it.
Post by: Mike A on April 09, 2019, 11:30:13 am
I am glad it worked out for you. This should bump the completion date to somewhere in 2525.
Post by: Richie_jones on April 09, 2019, 12:03:24 pm
Post by: javeryh on April 09, 2019, 02:38:19 pm
They must make them more sturdy than they used to.
I am glad it worked out for you. This should bump the completion date to somewhere in 2525.
Current schedule is now bumped up to 2025 - high school graduation present.
Have you de burred that edge..looks sharp
I did de-burr it... by basically grinding the edge of the wheel along the edge on both sides. Seems OK...
Post by: Jimbo on April 10, 2019, 04:48:31 am
Quote
Thanks Jimbo - I'm also concerned about accidentally hitting the Exit button but I'm not sure I want to complicate matters by adding a hot key function or something. I'm really undecided on the admin button functionality. I know I want Exit and Pause and I need P1 Start at least and probably Select for console games if I decide to add any but not sure how to set everything up. That's future me's problem when I start trying to configure everything.
The default for retropie is start+select for exiting an emulator, which I use on the usb controllers for console games. I doubled this up to have the coin button on the control panel mapped to select also. This works fine, people know to hit start and coin together to exit from mame games, and I don't need a dedicated exit button. The *only* problem I had was I put start and coin too close together that they sometimes trigger exit when pressed madly by the kids (although they are aware of it now they do it much less).
Post by: javeryh on April 11, 2019, 04:51:05 pm
QuoteThanks Jimbo - I'm also concerned about accidentally hitting the Exit button but I'm not sure I want to complicate matters by adding a hot key function or something. I'm really undecided on the admin button functionality. I know I want Exit and Pause and I need P1 Start at least and probably Select for console games if I decide to add any but not sure how to set everything up. That's future me's problem when I start trying to configure everything.
The default for retropie is start+select for exiting an emulator, which I use on the usb controllers for console games. I doubled this up to have the coin button on the control panel mapped to select also. This works fine, people know to hit start and coin together to exit from mame games, and I don't need a dedicated exit button. The *only* problem I had was I put start and coin too close together that they sometimes trigger exit when pressed madly by the kids (although they are aware of it now they do it much less).
This sounds perfect. I'm envisioning it being something like this for the 4 buttons on the front panel:
Consoles: EXIT ------- SELECT - START ------- PAUSE
Arcade: EXIT ------- COIN - START ------ PAUSE
Is that something I can easily set up? I know the default EXIT in Retropie is START+SELECT but there has to be a way to remap this... I hope.
Post by: J_K_M_A_N on April 11, 2019, 05:18:18 pm
J_K_M_A_N
Post by: Jimbo on April 12, 2019, 05:51:28 am
Post by: javeryh on April 12, 2019, 11:43:56 am
So... I'm about to attach the CP to the cabinet and I've decided to try using some 1/4" rare Earth magnets to hold it in place. I think with these things in the 4 corners of the CP (8 total magnets) it should be quite secure but I really won't know until I finish and start playing on it. As it is now, there is no side to side movement of the CP and you also cant move it forward and that's with nothing holding it in place so really I'd only have to worry about it coming off if someone pressed down (or pulled up) on the joystick too hard. Seems unlikely.
Right now, my plan is to (somehow) locate the spots on the underside of the CP and the 1/2" rails that support the CP where I will carefully drill out a hole the same depth as the magnets. Then I'll epoxy the magnets in place with the tops hopefully being flush to the surface. I'm actually going to place the magnets about 1" away from where I would try to use carriage bolts or something just in case the magnets don't work so I'll have a place to drill without needing to remove them.
Does anyone have any thoughts/experience with this? Or tips?
Post by: Arroyo on April 12, 2019, 11:59:59 am
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071ZKQ2X5/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_EwlSCb3X0R4H8 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071ZKQ2X5/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_EwlSCb3X0R4H8)
Post by: javeryh on April 12, 2019, 03:58:22 pm
Any reason not to use magnets that are countersunk and just screw them in?
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071ZKQ2X5/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_EwlSCb3X0R4H8 (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B071ZKQ2X5/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_EwlSCb3X0R4H8)
I don't have that much room, unfortuantely. The magnets need to be somewhat tiny because I'm sinking them into the 1/2" wide rails that hold up the CP. I also only have 1/2" of material to work with underneath the CP so screws would likely want to pop through the top. Maybe they make these things in much smaller sizes?
Post by: Arroyo on April 12, 2019, 06:55:24 pm
Maybe they make these things in much smaller sizes?
Maybe these:
1/2” North Pole (https://www.servocity.com/0-500-diameter-magnet-north)
1/2” South Pole (https://www.servocity.com/0-500-diameter-magnet-south)
1/2” mix (https://www.amazon.com/dp/B078H5LBQV/ref=cm_sw_r_sms_c_api_i_PHpSCbW9ZXAFW)
Post by: javeryh on May 07, 2019, 01:20:25 pm
Anyway, I got the plate lined up from underneath and marked the center point for the holes for the t-nuts.
(https://i.imgur.com/GN6S8i7.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/LlNue7D.jpg)
I used my awl to punch a hole in the center where the forstner bit will start drilling and then used painter's tape to try and minimize tear out. I used a 5/16" bit to drill down - I had to go super slow and check the depth every mm or so. I wanted the deepest hole possible without going through (or warping) the other side.
(https://i.imgur.com/fyyMiuI.jpg)
Then I used the Allen wrench that came with the joystick mounting kit to screw in the t-nuts... this was also difficult because I had to keep everything centered and because my panel was so thin and made of MDF, it wanted to tear out rather than go into the hole.
(https://i.imgur.com/XGZO9CH.jpg)
It worked in the end and the joystick is very secure and you can't see anything on the top pf the panel. I'm glad I went this route instead of drilling through the panel (which I was prepared to do if this didn't work).
Of course, I forgot to take pics of the joystick installed but I'll do that tonight. Next up - installing magnets to keep the CP in place! :cheers:
Post by: javeryh on May 08, 2019, 09:52:55 am
(https://i.imgur.com/Mc2QP5J.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/ADmMGSD.jpg)
Here you can see all 4 of the locations of the magnets - I just eyeballed a good location on one side and then mirrored it on the other side.
(https://i.imgur.com/pqTs82m.jpg)
And here are a bunch of shots showing the installed magnets:
(https://i.imgur.com/uQCtj0j.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/HuvzeWp.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/F6w4Hux.jpg?1)
Drilling into the rails seems to have worked out. There was not any room inside to install a latch or something else that would be stronger. The magnets hold everything in place nicely although if you pull down on the joystick hard enough it will come loose. I may need to reinforce it somehow but I won't know until I play test the finished cabinet for a while. It does not move in any other direction otherwise. I also need to scrape a layer of glue off of the surface of the magnets, which will hopefully produce a stronger bond. You know how super glue expands and gets everywhere when it dries...
Next up is mounting the monitor. I have no idea how this is going to work out. The monitor is VERY thin since I removed it from the case so I am debating on just using some strong tape to attach it to the bezel I cut out of matte board. I worry that it will fail over time though. Another option is to try and line it up with some sort of bracket attached to the inside sides of the cabinet but that seems overly complicated. Also, there is no way to attach anything to the monitor - it is literally a thin screen with some wires connected to its PCB, which is just kind of floating.
Post by: Gilrock on May 08, 2019, 10:18:51 am
Got the joystick mounted. Seems solid but what a pain in the neck! I ordered the joystick mounting kit from groovygamegear (https://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=317) but the screws that came with it were 1/2" which was too long (the CP is only 1/2" thick). So I had to go to Home Depot to find some 1/4" screws with the same threading. I thought about using washers but I was concerned about the two screws near the top of the panel sticking up too high to not allow the CP to sit flush.
I didn't get this part. You said the CP is only 1/2" thick but its sitting on a measuring pad and it looks like your control panel is 3/4" thick.
Post by: javeryh on May 08, 2019, 10:43:20 am
Got the joystick mounted. Seems solid but what a pain in the neck! I ordered the joystick mounting kit from groovygamegear (https://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=317) but the screws that came with it were 1/2" which was too long (the CP is only 1/2" thick). So I had to go to Home Depot to find some 1/4" screws with the same threading. I thought about using washers but I was concerned about the two screws near the top of the panel sticking up too high to not allow the CP to sit flush.
I didn't get this part. You said the CP is only 1/2" thick but its sitting on a measuring pad and it looks like your control panel is 3/4" thick.
The "thickness" in the last pic on the measuring pad is deceptive because that edge is actually angled to meet the monitor bezel so it looks much thicker than it actually is.
(https://i.imgur.com/8j4xH3h.jpg)
Post by: Gilrock on May 08, 2019, 11:01:15 am
Post by: javeryh on May 08, 2019, 11:22:45 am
Yeah I was looking at the first pic though which is even harder to see the angle. The holes looked deeper than 1/2" though but I guess you'd know. ;)
yeah - the scale on this thing is weird because it is smaller than a typical bartop with a 19" monitor. The side panels are 3/4" and they look really thick in comparison.
To finish these last few posts off, here are some shots of the CP installed. It is looking good, IMO.
(https://i.imgur.com/sbO1tH4.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Z9EX6qg.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/xpYl4KU.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/KMXJ1xA.jpg)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4mR1C97UBU8
Note that the blue dustwasher is temporary - well, it's the real dustwasher but the blue is just a plastic coating that will be peeled off. It is clear but I'm adding art to the bottom that will face up and will match the rest of the CP. I also need to figure out some button labels for the front. Not really sure what I'm going to do there but I'm reasonably sure that from left to right they will be:
EXIT ---- COIN/SELECT - START ---- PAUSE
I'll work on the monitor mount this weekend and probably wire the CP and get the t-molding installed. I also need to do a deep dive on how to get the ServoStik to talk to Retro Pie. It's getting there. :cheers:
Post by: Malenko on May 08, 2019, 11:29:32 am
Post by: Jimbo on May 08, 2019, 11:32:20 am
Looking really nice mate!
Is that some damage to the CP overlay to the right of button 6? Or just some dust/marks?
I hope those magnets work out and the CP doesn't pop off just when you're about to get the highscore ;)
Post by: Gilrock on May 08, 2019, 11:41:15 am
Post by: javeryh on May 08, 2019, 12:00:24 pm
lookin good billy ray!
Thanks! Although I'm not sure who Billy Ray is...
If you put coin select and start next to each other, remember to unconfigure that "exit" combination in retropie :)
Looking really nice mate!
Is that some damage to the CP overlay to the right of button 6? Or just some dust/marks?
I hope those magnets work out and the CP doesn't pop off just when you're about to get the highscore ;)
I plan to do a fair amount of configuration in Retro Pie when the times comes. I want to get my own boot-up screen to appear, one button power on/off, hide the settings menu and some other stuff. My son requested some NES games (Tecmo Bowl, Baseball Stars, SMB 1, 2 and 3, and LoZ) so looks like it won't be arcade-only like I originally planned. If that's the case I may add a couple more standouts from other consoles but I'd really like to keep this thing to under 50 games.
Good eye - it's some slight damage from a spring clamp which I was really pissed about for a few days. It's not that bad though - only shows up in pics if there is a glare for some reason. Can't really see it at all in person but it's there. I've actually thought about ordering another CPO but lining everything up now that the holes are drilled would probably be too difficult.
Magnets should maybe kind of sort of be OK I hope. ;D
It will be a bartop to be proud of. I like the artwork....lookin nice!
Thanks!
At this point I'll just be happy to finish and move onto the next project haha. These things always take me forever. :angry:
Post by: Arroyo on May 08, 2019, 12:49:02 pm
lookin good billy ray!
Thanks! Although I'm not sure who Billy Ray is...
What???? Trading Places, Eddie Murphy. Come on now.
Post by: Mike A on May 08, 2019, 12:52:08 pm
Post by: javeryh on May 08, 2019, 01:11:17 pm
lookin good billy ray!
Thanks! Although I'm not sure who Billy Ray is...
What???? Trading Places, Eddie Murphy. Come on now.
Wow was not thinking that at all but yeah... duh. ;D
Post by: Arroyo on May 08, 2019, 03:46:39 pm
I think Arroyo is still drunk. We tried to kill him with booze. He is very resilient.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190508/20accf75cc65b1b09508601b785d2966.jpg)
Sorry Javery, couldn’t help myself.
Post by: javeryh on May 14, 2019, 08:50:00 pm
Here's a video explaining it a little better:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Uek3daHLU4M
Any ideas?
:angry: :angry: :angry:
Post by: JDFan on May 14, 2019, 08:57:09 pm
https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=TPPT-23-33
Post by: opt2not on May 14, 2019, 09:03:03 pm
Any ideas?
Is there anything blocking it on the other side? Could you flip the mount 180 degrees?
Post by: javeryh on May 14, 2019, 09:57:09 pm
Maybe some spacers on the front of them so they stick out a bit on the front but take up less space in the back side.
https://www.mikesarcade.com/cgi-bin/store.pl?sku=TPPT-23-33
It's just the one button so I'd rather not make all 4 stick out. If I can't figure it out I'll probably ditch the ServoStik for U360 or something. Not sure yet.
Any ideas?
Is there anything blocking it on the other side? Could you flip the mount 180 degrees?
Unfortunately no. This is the only configuration that the motor will fit. I'm wondering if there is a way to make the button just a little shorter somehow. like cut out a section of it and glue it back together. I'll need to stare at it until I think of something otherwise I'm going to end up using a U360, which is fine but I lke the clickiness of a standard joystick even though I'd be able to play more games with the U360 (Q*bert, etc.).
Post by: PL1 on May 14, 2019, 10:01:19 pm
How about replacing the current microswitch with a low-profile 3d printed leaf switch holder, a rod that goes from the cap of the button to the leaf-switch, and maybe a guide for the rod that fits inside the body of the button?
Scott
EDIT: You may also need to add a spring inside the body of the button.
Post by: javeryh on May 15, 2019, 10:02:26 am
A GGG True-Leaf Pro switch would fit into that space.
How about replacing the current microswitch with a low-profile 3d printed leaf switch holder, a rod that goes from the cap of the button to the leaf-switch, and maybe a guide for the rod that fits inside the body of the button?
Scott
EDIT: You may also need to add a spring inside the body of the button.
This would be awesome if it works - do you have a link to the switch? I searched GGG site but can't seem to find anything.
If I knew how to 3D print a solution I would definitely do it - seems like it wouldn't be that hard for someone if they knew what they were doing. I took the button apart and the button minus the microswitch is plenty small for where I want to put it:
(https://i.imgur.com/urXEjpD.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/fx5M3DC.jpg?1)
I think I'm going to crack open the switch today and see how it works inside.
I've got some mini buttons leftover from another project that are much smaller - maybe I can frankenstein some combination so that the switch is actually inside of the white piece instead of below it and add a spring like you suggested. So I'd use my button without the switch and try to position a smaller switch inside of the white piece. Not sure how the hell to set this up but last night I played around with a U360 and it just didn't feel right for this bartop.
Think one of these can be used?
(https://cdn-shop.adafruit.com/1200x900/1505-04.jpg)
Otherwise still not sure how I'm going to sort this out.
Post by: meltman on May 15, 2019, 10:14:49 am
Post by: Malenko on May 15, 2019, 10:20:38 am
Post by: javeryh on May 15, 2019, 10:50:37 am
Space the motor away from the joystick plate, flip it over so it engages the opposite side of the restrictor, and reverse the polarity to spin the servo arm the other way?
This seems beyond my capabilities - lining the arm up perfectly seems like a recipe for trouble but I like the idea. I've read that these sticks are stiff as is and may take a little elbow grease (literally) to get working smoothly.
cut the legs off and solder to the remaining metal?
I thought of this but I think I still need 1/8" - 1/4" more room to make it fit.
The microswitch is set inside if the white base and pokes through the bottom. Maybe I can glue it in place about 1/4" up from where it wants to sit (using a spacer) and also remove 1/4" from the little white tab that gets pressed by the button to activate the switch? I'd also have to cut the legs off and solder but this might get me there. I'm not sure what this would do to the functionality of the button and I'd have to be super accurate with the spacing/cuts but maybe? Hmmm...
Here's what I mean:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=IKN954rFDNM
Post by: PL1 on May 15, 2019, 12:31:17 pm
I've got some mini buttons leftover from another project that are much smaller - maybe I can frankenstein some combination so that the switch is actually inside of the white piece instead of below it and add a spring like you suggested. So I'd use my button without the switch and try to position a smaller switch inside of the white piece.Good idea. Putting a smaller button inside your 24mm Seimitsu PS-14-GN-C admin button is a lot easier than 3d printing a switch holder.
This button (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GIKRNC) would be an excellent choice.
- I've test fitted it to the Seimitsu button you're using and it will work. ;D
- You'll need to drill or cut away at least part of the rectangle on the underside of the button cap.
- Use a small fender washer to mount the small button and some spacers underneath to hold it at the proper height inside the Seimitsu button body.
- No extra spring needed.
Think one of these can be used?Sorry, but that button (https://www.adafruit.com/product/1505) is too tall.
Scott
Post by: javeryh on May 15, 2019, 01:23:54 pm
I've got some mini buttons leftover from another project that are much smaller - maybe I can frankenstein some combination so that the switch is actually inside of the white piece instead of below it and add a spring like you suggested. So I'd use my button without the switch and try to position a smaller switch inside of the white piece.Good idea. Putting a smaller button inside your 24mm Seimitsu PS-14-GN-C admin button is a lot easier than 3d printing a switch holder.
This button (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GIKRNC) would be an excellent choice.
- I've test fitted it to the Seimitsu button you're using and it will work. ;D
- You'll need to drill or cut away at least part of the rectangle on the underside of the button cap.
- Use a small fender washer to mount the small button and some spacers underneath to hold it at the proper height inside the Seimitsu button body.
- No extra spring needed.Think one of these can be used?Sorry, but that button (https://www.adafruit.com/product/1505) is too tall.
Scott
Awesome - thanks. I think I actually have a few of those buttons laying around at home but even if I don't, $6 to fix this will be well worth it. :cheers:
Post by: javeryh on May 15, 2019, 05:02:17 pm
- Start button modification
- Print dust washer art (possibly reprint CPO)
- Install t-molding
- Install monitor to inside of cabinet against bezel
- Polish edges of clear dust washer with Novus
- Attach dust washer art to bottom of clear dust washer
- Figure out how to control ServoStik motor with Raspberry Pi
- Create splash screen or intro video for Raspberry Pi boot
- Configure Raspberry Pi
- Wire everything
I hope to knock out a lot of this over the weekend. Finish line in sight finally. :cheers:
Post by: javeryh on May 17, 2019, 03:26:48 pm
This button (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004GIKRNC) would be an excellent choice.
- I've test fitted it to the Seimitsu button you're using and it will work. ;D
- You'll need to drill or cut away at least part of the rectangle on the underside of the button cap.
- Use a small fender washer to mount the small button and some spacers underneath to hold it at the proper height inside the Seimitsu button body.
- No extra spring needed.
I got the mini button... I'm not 100% sure how I'm going to do this but I think it works in theory. I'll have to remove quite a bit of that rectangle on the underside of the button cap somehow in order to get the mini button as high up as possible inside of the Seimitsu button. With the right spacers, friction should take care of the rest (no need to glue everything together). I just don't want the mini button to be able to slide around even though it will be somewhat wedged between the button cap and the bottom of the Seimitsu button. I'll know more once I get a chance to play with it.
At the very least I want to get the monitor mounted this weekend and everything wired. Do you guys think a strong tape would hold over time? Ideally I'd like to just tape the monitor to the bezel from behind. It is pretty light but I worry about the tape failing eventually. Otherwise I need to think of some other way to do it (not to mention lining it up).
Post by: J_K_M_A_N on May 17, 2019, 04:41:18 pm
J_K_M_A_N
Post by: Arroyo on May 17, 2019, 05:08:01 pm
Do you guys think a strong tape would hold over time?
I’ve used this stuff for mounting templates when routing:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190517/b3a774bee9150a4d3565166120c9b50e.jpg)
It’s stupid strong, I’ve even had trouble separating two pieces pulling as hard as I can. I can only assume it would hold up over time.
Post by: javeryh on May 17, 2019, 09:42:02 pm
is it thick enough to use a small screw and some plastic strap over the corners instead of tape? I would guess it the bezel is pretty thin. :( You could get some plastic plumbers strap if it would work.
J_K_M_A_N
My bezel is made of black matte board so I can't screw anything to it, unfortunately. It's thick (1/8") and pretty sturdy so I'm hoping tape will work...
Do you guys think a strong tape would hold over time?
I’ve used this stuff for mounting templates when routing:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190517/b3a774bee9150a4d3565166120c9b50e.jpg)
It’s stupid strong, I’ve even had trouble separating two pieces pulling as hard as I can. I can only assume it would hold up over time.
I've got some of that laying around - I guess I'll give it a shot. If it doesn't work I guess that will be future me's problem.
Post by: javeryh on June 03, 2019, 09:47:57 pm
All I did was shave down the tab on the button insert. I had thought about trying to cram a smaller button inside but I couldn't work out how to get it to stay in place. I must have opened 10 different bags of washers at Home Depot trying to find something that would keep everything in place. No dice.
As you can see the rectangular hole was still there once I removed the tab.
(https://i.imgur.com/xFzEEO5.jpg)
This was really beneficial because it still allowed the tab on the microswitch to fit securely. I did have to shave down the corners on the switch so it would fit inside of the button insert.
(https://i.imgur.com/9zZWmSR.jpg)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xwi0HUT8cHQ
I need to figure out a way to permanently secure the microswitch in place. I'm thinking of just using some super glue - will that be a tight enough bond between plastic? It needs to hold up over thousands of button presses.
Here is the result:
(https://i.imgur.com/N6TzB2C.jpg)
I will most likely solder the wires onto the switch just to be safe. It's not like I'll ever have to remove it.
(https://i.imgur.com/CMnVfpL.jpg)
You can't even tell from the outside!
(https://i.imgur.com/yCowW1D.jpg)
Tomorrow I'll glue the switch in place... probably. I do want to sleep on it first. Next up - installing the monitor! :cheers:
Post by: Laythe on June 07, 2019, 03:26:14 am
Were it me, I'd probably go for a 2-part 15 minute epoxy for mounting the microswitch, rough up the sides a little with a razor knife or file to give it some texture to grip.
(Superglue might work, but I hate getting that white fog in places I didn't expect, so I'm always leery of using it around clear plastic. Might work fine, though.)
Post by: javeryh on June 07, 2019, 01:45:04 pm
Good save!
Were it me, I'd probably go for a 2-part 15 minute epoxy for mounting the microswitch, rough up the sides a little with a razor knife or file to give it some texture to grip.
(Superglue might work, but I hate getting that white fog in places I didn't expect, so I'm always leery of using it around clear plastic. Might work fine, though.)
Thanks - that's a good idea. I also hate the mess superglue leaves so an epoxy might be the way to go. The issue is going to be holding it exactly in place while the epoxy dries. There is nothing preventing the button cap with the switch from "falling" through the square hole in the button casing. In order to get it to work properly I'll have to eyeball it so the amount the button sticks out beyond the bezel matches the others and somehow apply the epoxy. I'm a little stumped - I wish there was a way to get it to be exactly where I want and then add the epoxy.
Post by: PL1 on June 07, 2019, 03:34:11 pm
I wish there was a way to get it to be exactly where I want and then add the epoxy.You don't need epoxy, you have a spare button and cardboard.
1. Carefully cut the sides away from the bottom of the spare button body leaving a round mounting washer with the perfectly-sized rectangular hole for the microswitch.
2. Make spacer washers from cardboard.
3. Put the mounting washer with microswitch on top of cardboard spacers in the button body and cover it all with the button cap.
Scott
Post by: javeryh on June 22, 2019, 06:10:36 pm
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190622/5d44b9c6f98f253a28b8a48360504881.jpg)
Post by: leapinlew on June 22, 2019, 07:06:44 pm
I guess there is no way to reverse it in the software? Big fan of Comic Book Theme.
Post by: Arroyo on June 22, 2019, 08:03:01 pm
Nailed it!
Post by: javeryh on June 23, 2019, 12:39:34 pm
You got your HDMI cable in upside down! :lol
I guess there is no way to reverse it in the software? Big fan of Comic Book Theme.
I fixed it... looks good but holy crap it is going to be difficult cramming everything inside of the cabinet. I can't bunch wires at all - I've been just cutting them as short as possible and reattaching the USB/headphone/whatever to the end to save space. My soldering and wire management skills are lacking so it looks like a 2nd grade art project in there... electrical tape all over the place!
I also think I need to build a shelf out of 1/4" MDF or something to get some more surfaces to mounts stuff to. Not sure how I'm going to make it all fit and I haven't even thought about the iPAC and the ServoStik PCB.
I like the comic book theme but not for this project I think. It clashes big time with the theme of the cabinet. Plus, I HATE how all Retropie themes have ABXY labels like everyone is just using a SNES controller. I'm trying to find something extremely simple - mostly text based so that it blends into the rest o the cab. If I had any skills at all I'd try to make my own but I am terrible with computers.
Nailed it!
It's funny in hindsight but time is so precious and to waste an hour was painful!
Post by: Alejo I on June 24, 2019, 12:36:52 pm
Well if there’s 2 ways to do something I’m 100% guaranteed to get it wrong the first time.This is hilarious. I hope you had a sensible chuckle out of it.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190622/5d44b9c6f98f253a28b8a48360504881.jpg)
Reminds me of that time I put the hinges of my bedroom backwards.
Post by: Mike A on June 24, 2019, 12:44:26 pm
Post by: javeryh on June 24, 2019, 03:54:50 pm
Slow and steady wins the race! If all goes well, by this weekend I should be all done building with the only thing left to do is tweaking the game lists and a few other odds and ends (mainly the dust washer and getting the ServoStick working). My son wants some SNES/NES and other stuff so I need to look into "Top 50" console lists for arcade builds... if such a thing even exists.
Anyway, I snapped a few pics while I was working... Here's the monitor mounting magic:
I used 3M double sided mounting tape. It has a bit of a thickness to it (1mm maybe) but forutnately the tape is black so you don't see it.
(https://i.imgur.com/jTphMj0.jpg)
Here's the monitor stuck in place:
(https://i.imgur.com/274ngpt.jpg)
Here is the result:
(https://i.imgur.com/OnxJ047.jpg)
In the pic above, I obviously put this into the cabinet upside down. One issue I'm having is what to do with the PCB - it just sort of flops around inside. I've got it temporarily taped to the monitor panel with painter's tape but this won't work long term:
(https://i.imgur.com/bDwvVbf.jpg)
I'm thinking of adding some plastic PCB feet and then using either more of the double sided tape or some epoxy to stick it to the back of the monitor panel. The only concern I have is heat eventually melting the glue causing it to fall... but I don't think it will ever get that hot inside. I'm going to give it a shot tonight along with mounting the Raspberry pi and iPAC to the back door... :cheers:
Post by: Arroyo on June 24, 2019, 04:47:31 pm
Home Stretch. I'm looking forward to seeing it done!
Post by: Jimbo on June 25, 2019, 06:16:00 am
I used extra strong velcro to mount everything in the back of my bartop. Nothing budges :)
But I know what you mean... you get a lot of cables in there... fitting them all in neatly is a struggle!
Post by: javeryh on June 25, 2019, 09:25:09 am
It's funny how vested I become in other peoples projects, almost like I'm in the workshop with them. :cheers:
Home Stretch. I'm looking forward to seeing it done!
Me too! I'm the same way - there are a bunch of projects around here I can't wait to see finished (yours included). :cheers:
Looking good!
I used extra strong velcro to mount everything in the back of my bartop. Nothing budges :)
But I know what you mean... you get a lot of cables in there... fitting them all in neatly is a struggle!
I thought about using velcro but I had the double sided tape on hand so I just went with it. I got the PCB for the monitor mounted last night. It was easy enough - I added some PCB feet to the board and then used double sided tape on the bottom to attach it. I checked this morning and everything seems to be holding up well.
(https://i.imgur.com/2IIsTFl.jpg)
This is a shot kind of looking straight down into the back of the cab - you can see the PCB with the white plastic feet stuck to the back of the monitor. I mounted it low to give me some extra room up top because the ipac and the raspberry pi are going to stick out from the back door and into the cabinet by at least an inch.
(https://i.imgur.com/zMiviuh.jpg)
Unfortunately, the holes in the Raspberry Pi are too small for the PCB feet I ordered - I did some checking and it looks like the holes are 2.5mm in diameter but I think 3mm will do the trick so I'm going to drill them out a little bit by hand and see if I can get the feet attached. It just makes life easier.
(https://i.imgur.com/00lvhPG.jpg)
How old is this ipac? Look at the connector!
(https://i.imgur.com/j4jWz54.jpg)
Finally here is a random shot from the front looking inside under the monitor. In all of these pictures you can see the wire bunches I have to deal with. I may try and cut them shorter and splice the connectors back on. I'm a little nervous because I don't know what is inside of a USB cable - if it is just a couple of wires then no big deal but if it is like the inside of some CAT6 wiring I don't want to mess with it.
(https://i.imgur.com/Ewc95I4.jpg)
It is a really tight fit inside. I'm not sure how the CP controls will work yet either. I need space for the joystick and button wires plus the 2 wires for the servo and the servo PCB. I hope it all fits and isn't too tight that airflow becomes an issue. I'm glad I cut out those 3 big holes on the back so that air can get in and out at least.
So tonight the plan is to:
- drill out the holes in the Raspberry Pi
- mount the Raspberry Pi and the ipac to the the back door
- finish all wiring (other than the CP) if that means cutting and splicing them to fit
- start wiring the CP
Post by: Mike A on June 25, 2019, 09:50:11 am
Post by: javeryh on June 25, 2019, 12:25:32 pm
You would have a lot more room if you got rid of that wall wart, the plug bar, and all of that bundled up wiring.
I don't really know how to get rid of the power brick or the plug bar. Those aren't too bad - it's the bundled wiring driving me crazy. I can probably do something with it if it is just a matter of cutting them shorter and reattaching the USB dongle or whatever is on the end with some solder and wrapping it in electrical tape. I'll know more tonight when I try to fit everything inside permanently.
Post by: Mike A on June 25, 2019, 12:40:13 pm
Post by: javeryh on June 25, 2019, 01:29:42 pm
- Raspberry Pi: Micro-USB powered (5.1V @ 2.5A)
- Amazon Basics PC Speakers: USB powered (5V)
- USB LED Strip Light: USB powered (5V)
- Monitor: Brick powered (DC12V @ 1.0A)
- Servo motor (for ServoStik): Micro-USB powered (5V)
- ipac: USB powered (5V? not sure)
I think that's it. The pi needs to be powered enough to run the ipac as a "controller", the servo motor and the LED strip light (so that when the pi comes on the marquee lights up).
The pi, monitor and speakers are currently plugged into the power strip with everything else running off of the pi. The speakers can just stay on all the time (or if I'm not being lazy, I can use the knob on the back of the cabinet to turn them off) and the monitor is "hot" but only comes on when it is receiving a signal. It all seems to work (other than the servo which I haven't figured out yet) but cramming everything in is going to be tight. I already ordered a 18" HDMI cable and a 12" USB cable to try and save space.
Post by: Arroyo on June 25, 2019, 01:30:09 pm
Do you have a list of what is being powered in your cab, and what power those devices need? You really don't need all of that bulk in there. If you can work around it that is fine, but we can come up with a better plan if you need more space.
To Mike's point, you can use these for example: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQGMOKI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 (https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01MQGMOKI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1)
(https://images-na.ssl-images-amazon.com/images/I/71HCuMrpqkL._SL1500_.jpg)
You just need a 24V power supply with enough amperage to power everything. Then you take the above and step down to 5V, 9V, 12V whatever you need. I used them in my control panel. It would save you a ton of space.
Post by: Mike A on June 25, 2019, 01:38:21 pm
https://www.alliedelec.com/product/mean-well-usa/rs-15-5/70069559/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwjMfoBRDDARIsAMUjNZqMoGHjJyekWjjebk8Lh6wBOENHSKa1R3iwWAGMX5stkccmU-CoY9EaArB-EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds (https://www.alliedelec.com/product/mean-well-usa/rs-15-5/70069559/?gclid=Cj0KCQjwjMfoBRDDARIsAMUjNZqMoGHjJyekWjjebk8Lh6wBOENHSKa1R3iwWAGMX5stkccmU-CoY9EaArB-EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds)
There are supplies that provide more current if it is needed.
There are also dual output power supplies 12V and 5V, but I am not sure how small they are.
Post by: javeryh on June 25, 2019, 08:20:35 pm
I mounted the ipac and raspberry pi on the back door and plugged everything in (except for the button wires that go to the ipac and the servo wires) and I think it's all going to fit without any major headaches. The door closes and I think there is at least some breathing room inside.
I'll post some pics later... gotta go watch Stranger Things with the fam (everyone has seen it except my son so we are bringing him up to speed before Season 3 comes out on the 4th).
Post by: javeryh on June 26, 2019, 09:28:12 am
I mounted the monitor control strip to the back of the monitor with a small piece of double sided tape. It is easily accessible although I doubt I'll ever need to adjust anything.
(https://i.imgur.com/C9IL6a7.jpg)
The next pic shows how I ended up mounting the ipac and the raspberry pi. I tried placing them in locations where the door would still be able to close and there would be room for cable management. The raspberry pi was a little bit of a pain to mount but ultimately not that big of a deal. I had to use a drill bit to make the mounting holes larger so that screws to the PCB feet I bought would fit. I did this carefully by hand with the drill bit to make sure I wouldn't break anything. I only needed to widen the hole by 1mm or less.
I am also trying to run cables underneath the PCBs so they are out of the way. The braided wire is the power button. I also found a much shorted micro-USB cable to save on space (the blue wire). The 18" HDMI cable I ordered should arrive today (way better than the 6' cable I had laying around).
(https://i.imgur.com/SqI9eCo.jpg)
The next 2 shots show the back of the cabinet with the door closed. On the bottom left I installed the volume knob by securing some ABS plastic to the inside with some superglue and drilling a hole for the knob. The volume can be completely turned off but I'll probably leave it "hot" even when the cabinet is not being used. Overall I'm really happy with how clean the back of the cabinet came out. The hinges aren't too ugly and there is adequate ventilation along with the volume knob and power receptacle.
(https://i.imgur.com/k7Sc7V6.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8qfJMQU.jpg)
Next up is wiring the CP. I'm trying to figure out a solution so that I can unplug everything easily - there are 14 inputs (10 buttons + the joystick) plus the 2 wires for the servo motor. Everything will need to be bundled tightly into one wire with some shrink tubing or zip ties otherwise it will be an unholy mess. I'm sure there is some sort of connector out there I can wire everything into that can be easily separated if I need to do maintenance.
Probably not going to get a chance to do anything else until the weekend. We've got baseball games every night the rest of the week (double header tonight). :cheers:
Post by: Arroyo on June 26, 2019, 11:27:40 am
Post by: Richie_jones on June 28, 2019, 02:19:06 am
There really cheap to. Mine was 5 quid off Amazon.
Unfortunately for me I couldn't get rid of speaker interference, and the only way to stop it was having two separate supplys. So I ended up putting 240volts into the cab and having to cram 2 power bricks inside one for the step down voltage board and a separate one to power the amplifier...
Post by: Richie_jones on June 28, 2019, 02:21:58 am
Then you have easy disconnect to remove cp when needed.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190628/490a431b3590bbc007d9ff99eb4f0b19.jpg)
Post by: javeryh on June 28, 2019, 05:24:20 am
For wiring the cp you could use an atx extension cable. Cut it in half and wire one side to the ipac and the other to your cp.
Then you have easy disconnect to remove cp when needed.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20190628/490a431b3590bbc007d9ff99eb4f0b19.jpg)
This is exactly what I needed to see. I probably have a couple of these laying around somewhere too. Just hope I have one with 14-16 wires. This seems perfect - I need an easy way to separate the CP from the cabinet in case I need to do some maintenance.
Post by: Richie_jones on June 28, 2019, 05:36:31 am
Post by: javeryh on June 29, 2019, 02:32:35 pm
Yes there 20pin. I also carry the 12v supply to the button lights down the same connector so the whole cp can just plug in and out..
Great idea. My 18" HDMI cable just arrived so I'm going to try and finish the wiring today or tomorrow. Should be fairly easy... famous last words.
Post by: Arroyo on August 19, 2019, 04:11:47 pm
Post by: javeryh on August 19, 2019, 04:41:29 pm
Come on Javery, the suspense is killing me!!
I still have a ways to go. The bookcase is almost finished but I still need to do all the trim in the room (crown and baseboard), add some lapboard backing between the bookcase where the bed will go and cut and add tops for the cabinets that go to the wall and give the entire thing a little more weight as well as complete the "built-in" look. I'm going to cope the crown and I have no idea how to do that yet. Oh yeah, I also have to pain this mofo - not looking forward to that. This was a big project for me and really out of my skill set but whatever - nail guns are fun so why not. ;D
The plan is to finish up the bartop in September once the kids are back in school and this bedroom renovation is complete.
Post by: Arroyo on August 19, 2019, 05:53:10 pm
I've got one fence down, two leaky toilets, a set of blinds that no longer work, and a broken sprinkler. When the wife looks at me I just shrug and tell her I'll be in the shop. ;D
P.S. - That's some sweet cabinetry.
Post by: javeryh on November 15, 2019, 11:23:34 am
I also finally secured that one admin button that I had to hack to the cabinet. I ended up using 2 part epoxy to hold it in place and it seems to be super solid.
This is what I'm talking about:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Xwi0HUT8cHQ
(https://i.imgur.com/N6TzB2C.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/CMnVfpL.jpg)
In the pics above, the epoxy (not shown) is holding the black part of the button that holds the microswitch to the white button casing. The trick was getting the glue to dry so that the depth of the microswitch was just right so the button looks exactly like the other 3 on the front of the CP. It worked.
(https://i.imgur.com/yCowW1D.jpg)
So next up - tomorrow - is trying to get all of the controls and software configured properly. My goal is just MAME with a concise gamelist but I'm using RetroPie (which I think I hate) so there is a learning curve for me.
The last thing I'll do is try and get the ServoStik working properly - seems like that is going to take some work. The motor connects to 2 free pins on the raspberry pi and there is a guide HERE (https://andrewdupont.net/2017/07/10/nostalgia-tron-part-8-over-engineered-joystick-rotation/) on how to get it working but I'm pretty dumb so...
We are hosting Thanksgiving this year so ideally I'd like to have this all working by then and I also want to build another cabinet but can't start on that until I finish this one! :cheers:
Post by: Mike A on November 15, 2019, 12:32:55 pm
Post by: javeryh on November 15, 2019, 12:50:16 pm
Damn. If you finish this thing I can't make ---smurfy--- comments Everytime you post somewhere. :angry:
You are the only one motivating me to finish.
Post by: Arroyo on November 15, 2019, 01:23:37 pm
You are the only one motivating me to finish.
Ahem......
Glad to see you back at Javery. Looking forward to seeing you button this one up. Nice mod on the button by the way, that would have had me scratching my head for awhile.
Post by: Laythe on November 16, 2019, 02:16:40 am
Post by: javeryh on November 16, 2019, 09:41:25 pm
Ahem......
Glad to see you back at Javery. Looking forward to seeing you button this one up. Nice mod on the button by the way, that would have had me scratching my head for awhile.
Heh... yeah I definitely get motivated every time I check in on your build. I can't let you finish before me!
Great job on digging yourself out of that occluded button problem! :applaud:
Thanks - that button gave me a lot of headaches so now I have to get the ServoStik working properly. That's one of the last things I have left other than configuring the software. I am just about out of room and I need to find a place for the little PCB that came with it.
Today I got a little bit further... I'm really having a hard time with the pi just because I don't know anything. I had it all working but I wasn't getting a picture on my screen. I discovered through some googling that I needed to edit the /boot/config.txt file to force HDMI... so after about an hour of googling how to SSH into the pi remotely I got it to work. On first boot I had to configure the "gamepad" and retropie thought I was using a keyboard, which makes sense. The joystick was easy but I'm not sure what to do with everything else.
(https://i.imgur.com/NvE3gmB.jpg)
I made a diagram - the colors refer to the wires I had on hand so I could keep track of everything. Since RetroPie seems like it wants a PSX/Xbox controller I'm not sure what the best way to configure everything is with the IPAC. The admin buttons aren't configured properly and I'm not really sure what I need to do. I'll make another post when I make some progress there.
(https://i.imgur.com/EACzYW7.jpg)
What a mess. A lot of my space issues are because the cables I'm using have to be bunched up and I'm not confident enough to remove a section and splice them back together.
So the cabinet boots up and I installed a "safe" shutdown switch by following an online guide (ETA Prime on YouTube). The image I'm using has too much crap on it. There is an "Arcade" section (with like 5000 games) but also NES, GBA, SNES, etc. Tons of stuff that will not get used... although the Atari 2600 stuff is intriguing. So next up is to SSH to the Pi and delete all of the games except the ones I want. I can't decide if I should make it Arcade only or maybe include 10-20 games from other systems that would work well in this cabinet.
Punchlist:
- Figure out gamelist
- Change boot up intro (there is a Ninja Gaiden video that plays when the cab boots - I want to change this to a splash screen with the Marquee logo)
- Change "theme" - I just want a simple 4:3 Gamelauncher-looking skin or something. The cab currently displays way too much info about each game plus a movie which I don't think I care about.
- Finish dustwasher. I have the smart phone protector but I still need to print the art at the proper size.
- Install t-molding.
- Wire the ServoStik
- Configure ServoStik in Retropie
Whew. So close yet so far away...
Post by: Jimbo on November 17, 2019, 06:15:00 am
Post by: javeryh on November 18, 2019, 04:49:54 pm
Looking good mate, you'll get there. These last finishing touches always take the longest time. :cheers:
Definitely for me. I'm more of a woodshop person than a computer/wiring person so all these finishing details are tough for me because I have to teach myself everything from scratch.
The "Now Loading..." screen when you boot up your bartop is so cool. Was that easy to make? I was envisioning something similar for my cabinet using the existing artwork. The robot or the marquee or some combination of the two with "Now Loading..." font in the bottom right (the animated ellipses would be a nice bonus). Nothing too fancy though.
If anyone wants to give this a shot for me I wouldn't say no... I can provide the photoshop art files with everything so it can be sized to 4:3 or whatever. :cheers:
Post by: Jimbo on November 18, 2019, 05:51:25 pm
A friend at work did the animated videotron logo/vector lines and made it look like a VHS tape loading while my music played. :)
Get an idea for a loading screen graphic using the cool robot art and ask the same artist to do one for you is my suggestion. Same artist will keep the theme the same, they could even pixellate it ;)
Good luck!
Post by: javeryh on November 22, 2019, 09:47:23 am
I just got the artist (that you also used) to do the pixellated drawing from an idea I had, and I put it as a start up screen in retropie's options I think (it's been a while now, can't remember which settings or anything right now). It was messing around with the splash screen I think, you can set it as a video etc. :) I might even have linked to a retropie startup how-to on my Videotron thread.
A friend at work did the animated videotron logo/vector lines and made it look like a VHS tape loading while my music played. :)
Get an idea for a loading screen graphic using the cool robot art and ask the same artist to do one for you is my suggestion. Same artist will keep the theme the same, they could even pixellate it ;)
Good luck!
I started messing around with a "boot logo" or whatever it's called - just some image that will be shown as Retropie is booting up in the background. The stock image shows lines of code and the pi logo (made out of font) and kills the "custom" experience. I know nothing about photoshop so I'm using Paint... yeah. Anyway, I think I just want this centered on the screen to start (black background):
(https://i.imgur.com/lmlir1v.png?1)
It's pixelated enough and gives off an 8/16-bit feeling but you can still tell what it is. Ideally, I'll figure out how to turn this into an animation where the words "Now Loading..." appear at the bottom maybe blinking or something along with some audio of my son saying "Jack Attack" modified to sound robotic as soon as the cabinet is turned on. I think my kids have some iPhone apps where making a movie is kind of easy - I need to look into that.
I'm not 100% sure this is the direction I'm going to go but right now I just want to hide Retropie as best as I can. Separating the marquee logo from the background is beyond my skill set so I don't think I'll be using that image here even though it might look cool as well. Of course, I might scrap this tomorrow if I think of something else.
I've also been messing around with the software over the last few days - trying to teach myself how Retropie works and how to set stuff up over SSH. So far so good... I think. Last night I "set up" the Atari game list... which just meant deleting hundreds of games that were already there. The list is down to 73 now but after playing for about an hour I realized that probably 63 of them are crap and can be removed... I still like Adventure for some reason and I'm sure there are 9 more games I would play from time to time to justify the inclusion of the Atari 2600. All of this is up in the air right now though.
Atari 2600 Vid (http://youtu.be/_Y2k7yyS52k)
I picked the "tft" theme to start with - seems like the most bare bones theme out there and I got rid of all the videos, game info, etc. The only thing I want to add back in are screenshots but I want them to appear behind the game list exactly like the old Gamelauncher front end used to do it. I'm going for simple. I also might see if I can change the color palette of the theme to match my cabinet art... I have a lot of learning to do.
:cheers:
Post by: wp34 on November 22, 2019, 09:50:43 am
Post by: javeryh on November 22, 2019, 04:17:54 pm
That boot logo looks great. That would be a nice finishing touch.
Thanks - baby steps. There is quite a bit left for me to do but I'm chipping away at it. All of the game lists are pretty much pared down now - I attached my Excel file of the games I have on this thing). I'm a little afraid to make some cuts for some strange reason. Like, I highly highly doubt anyone will ever play Castlevania or even Mega Man all the way through on this thing but the options are there.... cluttering up my lists!
I still also have to figure out how to map certain controls for the different emulators, replace the boot screen, add t-molding, rewire some stuff inside (including the ServoStik) and tweak the Retropie theme. I should have some time this weekend to work on it.
Post by: javeryh on November 23, 2019, 03:57:26 pm
(https://i.imgur.com/JmDfqAY.jpg)
It comes on as soon as the cabinet powers on... not that flashy. Next up is turning this into a 10 second movie because I want to add some sound. Not sure what that's going to be like yet...
EDIT: It works!! I managed to find some online tools to help make a movie so now when you power on the cabinet it shows the boot screen and a robotic voice says "Jack Attack. Now loading." three times and then it jumps straight into the game menu. No Emulation Station logos to be found anywhere - feels totally custom. I ended up using my voice for the robot voice instead of my son's because it's a gift from me to him and also he's out playing football somewhere with his friends haha.
Now that I've sorted that out, I am going to finish paring down the game lists (the "Arcade" list is 1679 games long and is ridiculous) and once that is done I'll configure the controls properly and install the t-molding so it looks "finished".
Post by: Jimbo on November 23, 2019, 05:11:22 pm
Post by: Arroyo on November 23, 2019, 05:12:04 pm
Post by: javeryh on November 23, 2019, 05:45:48 pm
Well done! Where's the video though? :)
Awesome.
Thanks guys... here's the video. Takes about 45 seconds total to boot. I don't care much about that but I wish the video would start playing sooner than it does. The 20 seconds of blank screen is kind of annoying but I don't think there is anything I can do about it...
Custom Bartop Bootup Sequence (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4WVaRhJUQbw)
Post by: Mike A on November 23, 2019, 06:49:06 pm
I flip the switch on my cab. I go get a beer. By the time I get back with my beer I am looking at the menu screen.
If I wanted to sit and look at the snazzy boot up sequence I created it would probably be cool the first couple of times I looked at it. After that, see the above comment.
I just don't see the point I guess. That doesn't mean it isn't cool. I like 80's robot voices. Its just not for me.
Post by: javeryh on November 23, 2019, 07:02:37 pm
Post by: Mike A on November 23, 2019, 07:11:49 pm
I just never got into all of that. Maybe I am just too lazy.
Post by: javeryh on November 24, 2019, 04:06:03 pm
Post by: javeryh on November 24, 2019, 07:58:04 pm
So now I have to figure out how to change control configurations but it's not as simple as it sounds. I need to figure out how to change global settings (navigating retropie menus), system specific settings (defining global control set up for Arcade, Atari, etc.) and then ROM Specific settings (for tweaking each game for optimal controls). This has to be the worst part of building these things.
Post by: Jimbo on November 25, 2019, 04:47:45 am
I'm not sure what's going on with the boot time before the screen comes up. My boot video comes up in 2-3 seconds from switch on. I think it was the "splash" setting I changed, but its a while ago now. I have a RPi 3b+ or something. Something seems wrong if it's taking that long.
I think I followed this: https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/14299/tutorial-remove-boot-text-on-the-raspberry-pi-for-noobs
Post by: javeryh on November 25, 2019, 09:39:45 am
Hi mate, love the intro! :)
I'm not sure what's going on with the boot time before the screen comes up. My boot video comes up in 2-3 seconds from switch on. I think it was the "splash" setting I changed, but its a while ago now. I have a RPi 3b+ or something. Something seems wrong if it's taking that long.
I think I followed this: https://retropie.org.uk/forum/topic/14299/tutorial-remove-boot-text-on-the-raspberry-pi-for-noobs
Thanks - I did notice that other people were getting their videos to run much faster. I wonder if it is because mine is only 12 seconds? The recommendation was to make it 30-40 seconds but I don't know how to stretch mine out (yet). I'll look into it today.
I'm annoyed at myself for trying to tweak an image that someone else had made instead of building mine from the ground up. I was just worried about getting the games to run properly since there are quite a few arcade emulators for RetroPie so you have to tell it which one to use when a game is selected. Seemed complicated. But trying to figure out what someone else did is probably way worse - for a few hours I had "mame2003", "neogeo" and "fba" showing up as games in my list - I could see them in the file tree via SSH but I was afraid to deleted them because I didn't want to screw anything else up.... but then I just deleted them anyway and it didn't seem to affect anything... but then like 30 minutes later the font in the theme started to look weird and I was getting strange graphical glitches in the Nintendo arcade roms... but I really don't think the two were related but maybe they are? I'm too far down the rabbit hole to start over from scratch though.
Post by: javeryh on November 28, 2019, 11:06:46 am
How do I map the same command to 2 different buttons? Changing the .cfg file to point 2 inputs to the same button doesn't work. The second command always gets ignored.
For example:
Quote
input_player1_start = "num1"
input_player1_start = "alt"
This will just just map P1 Start to the "1" key on the keyboard and not both the "1" key and the "Alt" key.
There doesn't see to be any combination of commands (that I could think of) that accomplishes this as well:
Quote
input_player1_start = "num1" and "Alt"These ALL disable BOTH buttons because presumable Retroarch is confused.
input_player1_start = "num1 , Alt"
input_player1_start = "num1,Alt"
It's making me crazy. I have Admin buttons on the front panel of my cab (Exit, Select, Start and Pause) but some games like NES use the Start and Select buttons in game so I'd like to also map those to the control panel (where there are multiple extra unused buttons).
Any ideas?
Post by: JDFan on November 28, 2019, 11:24:45 am
Any ideas?
Maybe wire both to the same input rather than trying to make 2 different buttons act as the one ? ( ie. hardware change rather than software )
Post by: javeryh on November 28, 2019, 04:21:02 pm
Any ideas?
Maybe wire both to the same input rather than trying to make 2 different buttons act as the one ? ( ie. hardware change rather than software )
I think that would work but I'm trying to just do this for the NES emulator. With 6 buttons on the CP and only 2 on the NES controller I have 4 extra unused buttons. Lots of games used Select and Start in game (like the star punch in Punch-Out!! and it is reall awkward to have to hit the front of the cabinet for those things. If I rewire, I'd lose functionality for the other emulators. Maybe the answer is to ditch the NES completely.
Post by: PL1 on November 28, 2019, 10:11:12 pm
You could use a DPST or DPDT switch to switch between "NES Mode" and "Normal Mode".Any ideas?
Maybe wire both to the same input rather than trying to make 2 different buttons act as the one ? ( ie. hardware change rather than software )
I think that would work but I'm trying to just do this for the NES emulator. With 6 buttons on the CP and only 2 on the NES controller I have 4 extra unused buttons. Lots of games used Select and Start in game (like the star punch in Punch-Out!! and it is reall awkward to have to hit the front of the cabinet for those things. If I rewire, I'd lose functionality for the other emulators. Maybe the answer is to ditch the NES completely.
Wire the two poles like this
P1B4 input ______/______ Select input
P1B5 input ______/______ Start input
Switch open (Normal Mode)
- All four inputs are separate.
Switch closed (NES Mode)
- Pressing either P1B4 or Select grounds both inputs, triggering both outputs. NES Emulator ignores P1B4.
- Pressing either P1B5 or Start grounds both inputs, triggering both outputs. NES Emulator ignores P1B5.
Scott
Post by: Mike A on November 28, 2019, 11:27:43 pm
Post by: J_K_M_A_N on November 29, 2019, 08:17:30 am
Ditch the NES. Play NES games on a couch in front of your TV.
I would agree with that. My first bartop, I put everything on there with USB so I could play NES and stuff. I NEVER play it on there. Just get some NES/SNES controllers and another cheaper PI and hook to the TV.
J_K_M_A_N
Post by: firedance on November 29, 2019, 02:14:17 pm
Ditch the NES. Play NES games on a couch in front of your TV.
I would agree with that. My first bartop, I put everything on there with USB so I could play NES and stuff. I NEVER play it on there. Just get some NES/SNES controllers and another cheaper PI and hook to the TV.
J_K_M_A_N
or use a thin client such as https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/HP-T5740E-THIN-CLIENT-PSU-POWER-LEAD-4GBF-2GBR-WES-7-RE-FURBISHED/202831630840?epid=1407994547&hash=item2f39b511f8:g:w04AAOSwZp5d3QSI
add in a display port to hdmi adapter, install lakka, roms, a couple of cheap snes pads and you're good to go,will happily run 8bit/16bit consoles no trouble :)
obviously the thin client i posted above isn't as small as a Pi but there other ones to chose from too :)
Post by: javeryh on December 01, 2019, 11:52:01 am
You could use a DPST or DPDT switch to switch between "NES Mode" and "Normal Mode".
Wire the two poles like this
P1B4 input ______/______ Select input
P1B5 input ______/______ Start input
Switch open (Normal Mode)
- All four inputs are separate.
Switch closed (NES Mode)
- Pressing either P1B4 or Select grounds both inputs, triggering both outputs. NES Emulator ignores P1B4.
- Pressing either P1B5 or Start grounds both inputs, triggering both outputs. NES Emulator ignores P1B5.
This is a really good idea but I don't think I want another switch on the cabinet just for a few games. I was hoping for a quick and dirty software solution. Which leads me to my next comment...
Ditch the NES. Play NES games on a couch in front of your TV.
I would agree with that. My first bartop, I put everything on there with USB so I could play NES and stuff. I NEVER play it on there. Just get some NES/SNES controllers and another cheaper PI and hook to the TV.
This is probably what I'm going to end up doing. The cabinet has been playable for about a week and I can already tell that the arcade games will get 90% of the play time on this thing. The other 10% believe it or not has been Atari 2600. The other console games like NES, SNES, GBA, etc. just don't seem to work in this format. The games are playable but something feels off. I guess they really were meant for a TV and d-pad.
:dunno
So with the software side pretty much finished (other than game specific settings) there are only a couple of things left to do:
- Finish the dustwasher. I still need to figure out how to print a .psd file to its actual size (without actually owning photoshop lol) so I can print the dutwasher art Arroyo made for me, attach it to the iphone screen protector I bought and then to the clear dustwasher (with the effect being the artwork appearing underneath the 1/16" thick dustwasher).
- Wire the ServoStik. Right now the stick is in 8-way mode and the plan was always to use 2 GPIO pins on the pi for the servo and then adding some text to the .cfg files to check for 4-way or 8-way before launching a game. However, it's actually not been a problem playing 4-way games for the most part. I mean, it's not perfect and I can definitely tell the difference but this cabinet is more of a novelty so maybe it's OK that it isn't perfect. I'm going to give it a shot though.
- Console/game specific splash screens. I'm not sure if there is a way to do this in Retropie but it would be nice to display an image every time a game is launched showing the controls/buttons used. I have noticed that without some sort of indicator, it isn't clear which buttons you are supposed to press until you start playing, which again, is probably fine. It only takes a minute to figure it out but an instruction card might help and give it an added layer of polish.
- T-molding. I've been holding off until I'm reasonably sure I won't have to take off the CP - the little overhang from the t-molding will really make it tough to take apart due to how close fit everything is.
Almost there... :cheers:
Post by: JDFan on December 01, 2019, 12:19:45 pm
- Finish the dustwasher. I still need to figure out how to print a .psd file to its actual size (without actually owning photoshop lol) so I can print the dutwasher art Arroyo made for me, attach it to the iphone screen protector I bought and then to the clear dustwasher (with the effect being the artwork appearing underneath the 1/16" thick dustwasher).
IF you need the psd file converted to another format ( PDF, PNG, JPG, etc.) upload a copy of it somewhere and send me a link and what format you want it and I'll load it up in Photoshop and save to that format for you - If you know the dust washer size let me know that and I'll check the size also to make sure it is correct.
Post by: javeryh on February 04, 2021, 08:16:03 pm
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210205/d0c2b5a23100a64c3c74a5a3047056b9.jpg)
Since I'm waiting on monitor glass to "finish" the cabaret I have decided to dig this up from the dead and get it across the finish line for good. Lots left to do here. I took everything apart today and I am replacing the iPAC2 with a crappy zero delay encoder for space reasons and also because Retropie and keyboards don't seem to get along as well as I'd like. I'm going to wire it up to behave exactly like an Xbox controller or whatever. I'm also probably going to add some console games because why not - its an abomination with Retropie anyway.
I need to figure out how to wire a ServoStik to the zero delay board. There is a connector with 5 pins but I don't have a cable. There is also 4 separate connections and I think I can use this as long as I don't switch the ground wires around.
I can't sit still in the house any more so I'm trying to keep busy....
Post by: PL1 on February 05, 2021, 02:06:25 am
I need to figure out how to wire a ServoStik to the zero delay board. There is a connector with 5 pins but I don't have a cable. There is also 4 separate connections and I think I can use this as long as I don't switch the ground wires around.There's no polarity to a microswitch so it will work as long as one wire from the 2-pin cable goes on COM and the other on NO.
- After that coin door wiring (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,161994.msg1732241.html#msg1732241) incident, I'm sure you'll double check that it's not on NC. jk :lol
Scott
Post by: vertexguy on February 05, 2021, 10:53:50 am
Post by: javeryh on February 05, 2021, 03:26:35 pm
There's no polarity to a microswitch so it will work as long as one wire from the 2-pin cable goes on COM and the other on NO.
- After that coin door wiring (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,161994.msg1732241.html#msg1732241) incident, I'm sure you'll double check that it's not on NC. jk :lol
LOL ;D
That's what I thought. There's a spot on the zero delay encoder for a "2-pin joystick interface" which is just four 2-pin terminals for U/D/L/R I assume. I'm just going to use that.
Lookin sharp javery! I think the left colors work best but instead of the bright blue / teal it could be pushed into a bit of a darker and perhaps less saturated blue. The outlines I might like better if they were a gray or maybe even black. Less dominant. I agree on no laser rings too. Feels out of place given his stance. The UFO behind him is emitting a light but that kinda gets lost in the blue. Might pop that a bit more but still keep the character popping the most :cheers:
Thanks - the art has been finished for a while now and has been ordered and applied to the cabinet - no changing it now! :cheers:
I'm starting to remember why I put this one on the back burner... I cannot for the life of me figure out how to secure the CP short of drilling holes through the top and literally screwing it down, which I absolutely do not want to do. I used rare earth magnets and they hold it in place pretty good but a good pull down on the joystick and the entire panel lifts up. This has happened every single time someone other than me has played it.
I'm open to suggestions on how to keep it from moving. The issue is that there is virtually no real estate on the underside of the CP to add any type of fastener or anything. Space is so tight. I don't even have room for the ServoStik PCB, which I'm relocating to behind the screen. Hopefully this will give you a better idea of what I mean:
https://youtu.be/1du4qFgkGyg
I'm really stuck. Any ideas?
:cheers:
EDIT: What about permanently gluing the CP in place and cutting a large rectangle out of the bottom panel? This would (pretty much) provide access to the buttons and joystick and solve the movement issue. Cutting a perfect rectangle will be extremely difficult though (any ideas how to do this?). Also, I'd still need to cover it to keep dust out or whatever... I guess a piece of 1/16" plexi would do the trick. This seems irreversible though so I'd still like to hear other options.
Post by: markc74 on February 05, 2021, 04:58:41 pm
Post by: javeryh on February 05, 2021, 05:33:12 pm
Would this work?You know... that might be crazy enough to work. The only issue I can see is that I literally only have about 1” of space for that wedge right next to the yellow plastic where I taped that metal catch.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210205/90911dc0f0f9b2408a89a4819f36ef12.jpg)
But I don’t need it to be that deep - it just needs to catch the screw, which would have to be almost exactly the right length.
Thanks for the idea - hadn’t considered it at all.
Post by: Sh0t0K4n on February 05, 2021, 10:36:52 pm
The placement of it all is so tight and well thought. I also very much appreciate the artworks, from start to the near end it is all top notch!
Beautiful work Javeryh
Post by: vertexguy on February 05, 2021, 11:17:17 pm
As far as the cp lock idea, I will riff off the wedge drawing concept. Instead of a small wedge, glue a long pillar of maybe 1.5" wood down from the bottom of the cp to the base. This way the insert goes into the bottom of the pillar, which is right next to the base. That way there's only a very short distance from the outside to the insert for easy threading.
You could also inset the hole size on the bottom so it sits flat instead of on bolt heads.
Post by: yamatetsu on February 06, 2021, 05:47:49 am
I'm really stuck. Any ideas?
Velcro.
Post by: Richie_jones on February 06, 2021, 09:35:57 am
I cant see any other option to hold it down properly.....
Post by: javeryh on February 06, 2021, 10:09:34 am
Just went through the whole Project and it is very nicely done.
The placement of it all is so tight and well thought. I also very much appreciate the artworks, from start to the near end it is all top notch!
Beautiful work Javeryh
Thanks. I thought out like 90% of it and as you can see the last 10% is what is killing me! I really like the form factor - it's big enough to comfortably play but small enough that it's not taking up a ton of space. Although, nothing beats a full-sized stand up, unfortunately. I wish I had more room in my house...
Lol sorry about the timing on the art. Every once in a while my phone makes me think I'm on the last page when I'm really not. :banghead:
As far as the cp lock idea, I will riff off the wedge drawing concept. Instead of a small wedge, glue a long pillar of maybe 1.5" wood down from the bottom of the cp to the base. This way the insert goes into the bottom of the pillar, which is right next to the base. That way there's only a very short distance from the outside to the insert for easy threading.
You could also inset the hole size on the bottom so it sits flat instead of on bolt heads.
Now I think we are getting somewhere... this is another good idea. I like the idea of routing out the bottom a bit so the bolt head sits flush. I'm getting a little bit more comfortable that I'll be able to work something out based on some sort of a post/screw/whatever connecting the top of the CP to the bottom panel of the cabinet. Just need to figure out how to make it easy.
I'm really stuck. Any ideas?
Velcro.
Yes - this would work if I had any forethought whatsoever but the thickness of the velcro (1/16") will raise the CP up by that amount and cause issues like the front of the CP no longe being flush with the monitor glass and the bottom panel sitting lower than the front edge of the CP, etc. I could maybe shave off 1/16" from the rail to account for the velcro but that seems difficult since the rails are glued in place...
Two tidy hex bolts 4mm through the sides and into some threaded inserts in the side rails..
I cant see any other option to hold it down properly.....
yeah... this is the last resort if I can't get something working in the next week or so. I'm sick of all these unfinished projects so I need to figure this out and move on.
Post by: javeryh on February 06, 2021, 12:38:54 pm
- I screwed a small eyelet to the underside of the CP near the top.
- I drilled a hole in the bottom of the cabinet right below the eyelet.
- Using a bobby pin and a hair tie, I threaded the eyelet and then pulled the hair tie through the hole on the bottom.
- I just spray painted a hook you use to hang a painting and I'm going to glue it to the bottom of the cabinet (hopefully low enough so it doesn't hit anything) and then stretch the hair tie over it to provide enough tension to keep the CP in place.
Is this mental? I can't tell. I've been thinking about it too long.
EDIT: OK, I think this could work... but not the hook underneath. Even with super glue, the tension is too much. But I have another idea with some picture frame/canvas z-clips. I can hold this down with a screw instead of the glue so it shouldn't move. I can put a ton of force on the eyelet, which is screwed in so I am confident that the z-clip will hold. I just sprayed it black so I'm waiting for it to dry...
Post by: vertexguy on February 06, 2021, 04:29:16 pm
Post by: javeryh on February 06, 2021, 05:05:29 pm
Hard to picture everything you're describing. Got a pic or two you can share?Ok here goes...
Here’s the eyelet on the underside of the CP:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210206/1425002c0c8678bd35e4500781f39079.jpg)
And here is the hole I drilled on the bottom of the cabinet:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210206/b9f2c56f82b47265adc0faa928d45c0a.jpg)
And here is the eyelet with the hair tie:
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210206/1310813300c872909091d57e81bb8c9e.jpg)
When attaching the CP I can thread the hair tie through the hole so it comes out of the bottom (the hole is in the right in the next pic). Then I pull really hard and loop it around the metal bracket on the left.
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210206/3cc379514020979bc95110eac4698747.jpg)
This creates quite a bit of tension on the hair tie keeping the CP in place.
Does that make sense? I’m wiring now or I would just show the end result.
EDIT: OK here it is...
https://youtu.be/6F7gGfOftGo
Post by: vertexguy on February 06, 2021, 09:58:43 pm
Post by: Richie_jones on February 07, 2021, 01:24:45 am
Sent from my SM-N976B using Tapatalk
Post by: Arroyo on February 07, 2021, 01:56:42 am
Post by: javeryh on February 07, 2021, 08:50:55 am
Nice. Thanks for the details. 8) That's an interesting solution and I'm surprised the hair tie is strong enough. Be curious when you get it back together if the CP moves any with rough joystick play.
It looks janky but it actually seems solid now. I haven’t really pulled on it yet because I’m still messing with the wiring but I think it will work.
Yet its still not fixed properly with a hair tie!!
It’s more like a mini bungee cord than a hair tie. It’s not coming apart and it can withstand quite a bit of tension - and I pulled that sucker as tight as I could. As long as the CP stays in place I’ll be happy. No one can see the hair tie or will ever know it is there unless they need to open it up. I’m going to print out an instruction card for the inside of the back door that explains how it works in case I’m not around and Jack wants to fix something.
Javery, I was confused by this problem until now as I didn’t realize your bottom panel was glued in place (at least I assume it is). Why not drill through your two 3/4” braces from the top and through the bottom of your panel. From the bottom either simply get a long screw to screw in the CP from its underside, or better yet use said screw to mark the location on the CP underside and then install a threaded insert in the CP underside and machine screw from the bottom into the threaded insert. Make sense?
This does make sense (I think). I’d have to drill through 2 rails on each side though - the one the CP rests on and the one below it that is holding the bottom panel in place. They are 1/2” not 3/4” so not a lot of room for error. There’s also the issue of the CP sitting at an 11 degree angle. I think this is what markc74 was getting at with his drawing as well, which is what made me think of my current solution.
I do not think I have the ability to drill two holes that precise on the assembled cabinet for a screw and a threaded insert, although that would be the best solution. Getting a screw the correct length might also be tough to find. I’m hoping I have it sorted out - I’ll know more today if I can get it up and running and let the kids play on it for a bit.
Post by: javeryh on February 07, 2021, 02:09:13 pm
If it wasn't snowing every day I could get out to the chop saw and make a few 11 degree wedges and really see how hard it would be to implement markc74's idea. Another thought was to just cover the rails with double sided tape. That much surface area should ensure the CP wouldn't move - it would just be a huge pain to get off if I had to.
Anyway, the zero-delay encoder works but I have no idea how to properly set up controls. I have the 6 buttons set to:
Y X L
B A R
And the front 4 buttons mapped to:
L2 --- Select-Start --- R2
The "Hot Key" is Select. The way to exit games is Select+Start (not obvious). Ideally I''d like it to be L2 (hold down for 1500 milliseconds) but I'm not sure how to reconfigure things. I guess I have a lot of reading ahead of me.
Also, on a per emulator or even per game basis I'd like the controls to be different. I was just playing Super Punch-Out!! and Y is left punch and B is right punch, which is dumb - it should be B for left punch, A for right punch and R for the super punch (with the top row of buttons not being used). I assume once I learn how to change things it will just be time consuming to get all the games set up, which I can live with.
:cheers:
Post by: vertexguy on February 07, 2021, 05:45:56 pm
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386359)
A) This is that small area where you put the tape above your button. It looks like maybe 1/2 inch tall by an inch or more wide. I would route this area by 2 or 3/16ths and glue the wood pillar to that. This way you're getting more strength than just a butt joint since you'll have some side area to glue to, making it more of a rabbet joint.
B) This is the pillar. Conceptually it could be made of anything strong. The idea is you want it stiff and straight though so it's always perfectly aligned. I thought about metal for this which could be screwed in at the top and bottom, or perhaps super glued. I like this better than the wedge at the top and a long bolt because it eliminates the problem of exact bolt length and awkwardly trying to get a really long bolt lined up from the bottom.
c) This is a 1.5x1.5x.75 block of wood (pine). I'm using these everywhere in my build with threaded inserts. Gives you plenty of room to accurately drill a center hole for the insert. The bolt length isn't critical because excess can just stick up beyond the threaded insert a bit. This is glued to the pillar, again ideally with more of a rabbet joint.
D) I couldn't tell how the front was anchored down, if at all, so this is an addition to add a single support for the front and an additional force to help the top from popping off. Again I would inset it with a router 3/16 to make a rabbet joint for extra strength.
E) Under your cab, you inset 2 holes that are big enough for the bolt and a washer. Keeps the bottom of the cab flush.
F) I think this might be an even better option if possible. I moved the concept to the sides and simply cut out rectangle areas from your side braces to make room. Then you have anchors on both sides that should keep it nice and snug.
You might also be able to make a slide in catch on the lower front to hold that part down instead of another threaded insert. Anyway... hope this helps get this project wrapped up for you. :cheers:
Post by: javeryh on February 08, 2021, 09:03:53 am
I will not have room in the front ("D") for anything. It's so tight inside. Especially with all 28 wires coming from under there (14 connections x2). There should be enough room to maneuver around a single post though. Now... how do I measure for it? I'm reasonably sure the CP is at an 11 degree angle. I measured it like 10 times with a protractor and it's not exact but it's the best I could do. The issue will be cutting it the exact length so the CP sits exactly flush on the rails and the bottom of the post sits exactly on the base of the cabinet.
I would also have to take it apart again (I wired it up and it's working) but I suppose that's not the biggest deal in the world.
:cheers:
Post by: vertexguy on February 08, 2021, 11:27:15 am
(https://www.newark.com/productimages/standard/en_US/4464199.jpg)
https://www.newark.com/keystone/634/mounting-bracket/dp/62W5720?gclid=Cj0KCQiA34OBBhCcARIsAG32uvPJ8rkIedJon5Lbr8pmX3NXJmX5ov2YWhg1R2lBi2NFrVY4AqjV_7EaAunDEALw_wcB&mckv=smmmS7SRR_dc|pcrid|495146202943|plid||kword||match||slid||product|62W5720|pgrid|108905519010|ptaid|aud-900629626920:pla-938983769740|&CMP=KNC-GUSA-GEN-Shopping-NewStructure-Gen-Fasteners-Mechanical# (https://www.newark.com/keystone/634/mounting-bracket/dp/62W5720?gclid=Cj0KCQiA34OBBhCcARIsAG32uvPJ8rkIedJon5Lbr8pmX3NXJmX5ov2YWhg1R2lBi2NFrVY4AqjV_7EaAunDEALw_wcB&mckv=smmmS7SRR_dc|pcrid|495146202943|plid||kword||match||slid||product|62W5720|pgrid|108905519010|ptaid|aud-900629626920:pla-938983769740|&CMP=KNC-GUSA-GEN-Shopping-NewStructure-Gen-Fasteners-Mechanical#)
They do make threaded L brackets. This is probably as small as you can get and still strong. It looked like you had a fair amount of space in between the buttons on the front so that's where I was thinking you could attach a connection with an insert. Hopefully there's enough space for something like this? If it's a no go for bolts maybe there's enough room to have an L sticking out from the front of the CP and it can slide under a metal strip on the base to just provide upward pull protection? With something like this your pillar could be metal to keep it small too. You would just use something like a wing nut to attach it to the L brackets on either end. The trick there is cutting your metal to the correct length and punching holes where needed.
As far as the angle of the CP, you could pick up an angle finder from harbor freight for under 5 bucks. Alternatively, just use a factory 1 by board as your straight edge. Put it flush against the bottom angle of the CP and let it stick out a ways. Ideally double stick tape it for convenience. Now you just need a reliable right angle to go up from the ground to that point to draw your straight line on that board and you have your exact angle. You could even cut that board and use it for your top angle connection point or make a template from it to cut whatever you end up using.
I would make your pillar a little long at first...by 1/16th or so. Then hand sand it down until it's a perfect fit. Even that doesn't have to be absolutely precise because your bolt will pull it down the rest of the way. It will just be stronger if it's flush.
Post by: bperkins01 on February 08, 2021, 12:56:23 pm
This can be done with a couple of machine screws and a threaded insert.
or
Look at this..
https://www.amazon.com/Tegg-Stainless-Security-Hardware-Tensionlock/dp/B07LBQ2HGG/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=suitcase+latch&qid=1612806570&sr=8-3
Look at real machines that have been around for 40 years.. Vast majority use bigger versions of this.
I've had the opportunity to work many professionals in a lot of different fields over the years .. they all have one common thread .. simplify..simplify simplify
No one builds that much stuff to hold down 18x8" of material..
Come back from the edge..
Post by: javeryh on February 08, 2021, 01:06:05 pm
You are overcomplicating the crap out of this and creating a space shuttle kit.
This can be done with a couple of machine screws and a threaded insert.
or
Look at this..
https://www.amazon.com/Tegg-Stainless-Security-Hardware-Tensionlock/dp/B07LBQ2HGG/ref=sr_1_3?dchild=1&keywords=suitcase+latch&qid=1612806570&sr=8-3
Look at real machines that have been around for 40 years.. Vast majority use bigger versions of this.
I've had the opportunity to work many professionals in a lot of different fields over the years .. they all have one common thread .. simplify..simplify simplify
No one builds that much stuff to hold down 18x8" of material..
Come back from the edge..
;D I agree I'm in way too deep.
But that clip is way too big to fit inside of the cabinet under the control panel. I didn't leave enough room inside for anything except the rare earth magnets countersunk in the rails, which turned out to not be strong enough. I love simple - if there is a simple way to do this I'm all for it. The threaded insert is probably the best way but I only have an area about 1-1/2"x 5/8" under the CP to attach anything to ... on an 11 degree angle (and the CP is only 1/2" thick).
Post by: bperkins01 on February 08, 2021, 01:16:37 pm
Pop those off the inside and glue / screw to the underside of the CP. You just made your CP thicker. Which is the real problem that you have.
The CP is thin so you can't connect anything to it..
Now you have 2 choices
1. Secure them through the sides of the cab (simple) - but I think you have side art.. so this is out..
or
2. Add a new set of side cleats below them on the cabinet sides like the ones you just popped off.
Then screw through the new side cleats into the new bottom (of the CP) cleats.
Make sense?
Simple :)
Post by: Gilrock on February 08, 2021, 04:37:08 pm
Post by: vertexguy on February 08, 2021, 05:54:10 pm
Bperkins second option seems similar to what I had proposed in point F. Here's a "simplified" approach that just uses fewer wood pieces, but overall takes up more available space. It would be stronger over all.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386374;image)
I'm going to assume you will need to add more thickness to where you want to add inserts as a 1/2" seems like it's a mighty small space to have much grab strength. An 8-32 insert leaves just under 1/8th on each side of it if you get it dead center on your 1/2 stock. It may be strong enough though? Perhaps if you super glue it in as well? Otherwise if you're more comfortable with something a little thicker here I just doubled the thickness (so 14/16 actual) on the bottom where you can add inserts. That would give you more of a margin of error and greater side strength for the insert.
Not sure if just 2 inserts in the back will be enough to prevent the front from popping up slightly or not. If not, my idea was to just glue on a small 1/8th thick piece of metal on the inside front that meets flush with the inside base of the cab. Then put an elevated strip of metal over it. Basically making a tiny door latch that doesn't move. Then the front would slide off straight instead of lifting to get around the latch.
Here's a variation idea....
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=159740.0;attach=386375;image)
This concept makes a door at the base of the cab to access things. You could use inserts for that too but I went with a key insert latch and a lip on the other end in this example. The idea is that once the bottom is open, you have access to the 4 inserts up top holding the CP on. They should ideally be hex as you will probably not have enough of a straight shot to use a screw driver on them. The downside I see to this is that it again relies on precision holes in 1/2" wood.
Only other thought would be if there's a possibility to access and extend something from the back of the cabinet, below the screen.
Another consideration though is, how often will anyone really need to access this area? Threaded inserts may not be needed and regular screws could be sufficient, which makes working with the 1/2 slightly easier...just make sure you're cutting the wood to not be screwing into end grains.
Post by: bperkins01 on February 08, 2021, 06:15:32 pm
Its simple.. no angles to cut. no big blocks of wood
Its plenty strong.. don't stand on it..
I've been woodworking for 30 years.. Many of you are worried about how strong something is going to be .. The level of *strength* being designed into some of these cabs is WAY overkill.. (Not this one specifically) Most of the machines in the arcades were crappy 3/4" particle board. Williams made nice 3/4" plywood cabs..
The 23' power boat I made (with a 300HP motor) - hits 50MPH on flat water and has a 1/2" plywood bottom.. Yes - 1/2" plywood.
my point - don't get too caught up on building a fortress.. chances are its way too strong already..
ps. My design is easy - I highly recommend it :P
Post by: javeryh on February 08, 2021, 09:15:48 pm
So how would you cut a rectangle out of the bottom panel without mangling it/making a bunch of wavy lines? I can’t get the power tools in there and I’m afraid I don’t have the skills to cut a straight line without a guide of some sort.
These pics are really helping me visualize what I need to do.
Post by: vertexguy on February 09, 2021, 11:42:38 am
I could even glue the CP down permanently as long as I had access to the wiring underneath,
These pics are really helping me visualize what I need to do.
You definitely could but that would make it a little more challenging to get stuff in and out and fix any wiring issues. I also thought you wanted to avoid the super small precision hole drilling which is why I extended the wood and made it thicker. As far as how to make the door, that seems like a good questions for bperkins or someone with a lot more wood working experience. Only thing I can think of is that you would need some form of a small circular saw or dremel to at least get a clean slot started and avoid the typical pilot hole approach. Then something like a keyhole saw or similar fine tooth variant could be used to cut each direction from there, very slowly by hand. As you indicated, I would setup a guide of some sort, maybe with a metal ruler to keep both saws against. If that actually works, then you keep your door in tacts and just modify it with an extended lip on one end and a lock on the other, or add something at the base of your cabinet that you can screw inserts into in order to hold it closed. This process could be made simpler if you can take the bottom off to work with a nice flat board.
The other idea is to blow away the door part. Use a drill / hole saw to start a decent center hole to navigate. Then jigsaw out the rest, again ideally with guides. Not sure you could cleanly get a router in there or not to clean up edges so you might need to rely just on the jigsaw, or ruff cut it out with that and use a coping saw with a guide for the finished edges. Then you'd have to make a new door to fit the hole. My original suggested ways eliminates the precision holes and doesn't require you to make a big access door under it. So there are some trade offs to consider, but the good news is, there appear to be a few different ways you can solve this.
Post by: bperkins01 on February 10, 2021, 08:21:34 am
OK I think I get it now. The second drawing looks doable to me. In fact, the whole time I’ve wished I had the forethought to have an access door on the bottom. I could even glue the CP down permanently as long as I had access to the wiring underneath, right? Or maybe that’s not a good idea if something breaks? I wouldn’t even need to cover the opening with anything other than 1/16” plexiglas held down by a few screws.
So how would you cut a rectangle out of the bottom panel without mangling it/making a bunch of wavy lines? I can’t get the power tools in there and I’m afraid I don’t have the skills to cut a straight line without a guide of some sort.
These pics are really helping me visualize what I need to do.
If you want to cut a clean hole in the bottom - the best way to do it is make a template first, then use the router and cut the panel out.
From my build thread - this exact technique: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,156272.msg1654080.html#msg1654080 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,156272.msg1654080.html#msg1654080)
The template and the inlay bit set will let you do what you want. Of course this would have been much simpler before assembly. After assembly - this is plan B.
Your CP isn't so busy that you can't fix it from the bottom - glue and screw in place is likely fine :)
Post by: javeryh on February 10, 2021, 09:38:31 am
If you want to cut a clean hole in the bottom - the best way to do it is make a template first, then use the router and cut the panel out.
From my build thread - this exact technique: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,156272.msg1654080.html#msg1654080 (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,156272.msg1654080.html#msg1654080)
The template and the inlay bit set will let you do what you want. Of course this would have been much simpler before assembly. After assembly - this is plan B.
Your CP isn't so busy that you can't fix it from the bottom - glue and screw in place is likely fine :)
Thanks. I've read your thread a bunch of times - really clean work and the hardboard templates are great. Like you said though, would have been easier if it wasn't assembled. I cannot turn my router sideways for safety reasons and there's no way to make the bottom sit face up so I can work so I'm kind of stuck (no router table either, which would also probably work). I have a dremel that I can use to cut a sort of straight line through the bottom (about 1" long) and I have a japanese hand saw I could use to finish cutting and get a sort of straight line... it will not be perfect and will actually be a bit sloppy but then again it's on the bottom.
My stupid hair tie solution has actually been holding up pretty good after a few days of playing on it - CP hasn't moved at all - just not sure about long term prospects.
Post by: bperkins01 on February 10, 2021, 10:29:42 am
Drill, cut, hand sand and file to the template opening..
Now you have a clean opening.
then make a new door for it
it will be all hand work.
Post by: javeryh on November 26, 2021, 03:34:03 pm
I finally put the t-molding on. It had been sitting in the basement without t-molding for years so Wednesday afternoon when I was on an endless conference call I decided to hammer it out (literally). This was by far the most difficult t-molding job I've ever done. Lots of curves on this and the interior ones made it tough.
(https://i.imgur.com/nYKxesV.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/8JKWq0l.jpg)
(https://i.imgur.com/Y1AXDxV.jpg)
It looks great with the t-molding installed. It came out even better than the initial idea I had in my head. Other than the dustwasher, which I want to change to something that matches the CP a little better, and some software configuration (ServoStick is not working as intended) this thing is finished. I'll try to get a video walk-through posted but it's nothing you haven't seen a million times before.
Right now I have a handful of Arcade, NES, SNES, Atari 2600, GBC and GBA games installed. Not many games seems well-suited to this format other than the very simple ones like Atari 2600 and Tetris. Games that require fast reflexes like Mega Man seem damn near impossible with the joystick. Maybe I just need to play it more! :cheers:
Post by: lomoverde on November 26, 2021, 04:35:48 pm
Post by: vertexguy on November 26, 2021, 06:03:28 pm
Post by: javeryh on November 26, 2021, 06:33:04 pm
Still using the hair tie solution to hold your cp?
yeah and it seems to be working. It's rock solid for me when I play but eventually I imagine I'll have to figure something else out...
Post by: vertexguy on November 26, 2021, 07:27:13 pm
https://www.homedepot.com/p/OOK-25-ft-55-lb-16-Gauge-Galvanized-Steel-Wire-50130/100242844?MERCH=REC-_-pipsem-_-100144004-_-100242844-_-N&
Post by: Mike A on November 27, 2021, 07:29:33 am
Regardless of how it plays at the moment,it looks stunning mate. :applaud:
The way it plays is the most important part of a machine that plays video games.
Post by: javeryh on November 27, 2021, 08:10:42 am
Yeah - it’s definitely 100% playable and is working exactly as intended. I just don’t know if I personally like the bartop form factor to play games on a regular basis given all the other options I have in the house. It has to be the most popular style of arcade cabinet by a factor of 100 though so I’m probably just too old to understand.Regardless of how it plays at the moment,it looks stunning mate. :applaud:
The way it plays is the most important part of a machine that plays video games.
Games like Tetris and Mario vs. Donkey Kong and Adventure and most arcade/Atari 2600 games are really fun to play but stuff like Sonic or Mario just feels weird. I also probably won’t play Zelda or Final Fantasy or probably even Metroid and Castlevania on this thing either.
I just need to play more and keep refining the game lists.
Post by: SpaceHedgehog on November 27, 2021, 09:31:27 am
Post by: lomoverde on November 27, 2021, 01:54:01 pm
Regardless of how it plays at the moment,it looks stunning mate. :applaud:
The way it plays is the most important part of a machine that plays video games.
Which is why I tried to be clear i was commenting on the look of it.
Post by: javeryh on November 27, 2021, 02:18:34 pm
Which is why I tried to be clear i was commenting on the look of it.
I appreciate the kind words. Feels good to get this (mostly) finished up!
Post by: Arroyo on November 27, 2021, 10:02:07 pm
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20211128/ffcbcb08f930d324c30810de3026f81f.jpg)
Finish off that duster and the ServoStick and you are done!