The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Project Announcements => Topic started by: tony.silveira on May 13, 2010, 04:59:41 pm
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EDIT: pics updated, hopefully they are bigger
after lurking on here for years, i thought i'd post pics of my 90% completed cab. i couldn't have done it without the help of this board and it's members, thank you all.
here is a full frontal, note the coin door. also note the giant 10' screen on the living room wall behind the machine, more on that later:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147238)
the coin door is just a sticker, from groovy games i believe. behind the sticker is a fridge for beer, hence the machine name "bAr-cade". just to the left of the door is a bottle opener and volume knob. to the right of the door is a pinball plunger for future pinball.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147246)
just below the marquee, between the speakers, is a small 9" fold down LCD. that way i can still watch TV while playing :) this small screen also has VGA in so i'm thinking in the future, it could display control cards for the game selected. note that the screen folds down and when up, is held in place by magnets.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147230)
next up, a close up of the front of the panel. slot loading dvd drive in the foreground. if you look closely, you can see some lines in the background on the front of the panel (and the bottle opener just below the lines):
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147232)
those lines i was talking about? the front pops off and out drags a groovy games spinner. i keep the wheel attachment close by so in 5 seconds, i can pull out driving controls:
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147240)
from the side, you can see my guns holstered behind the panel, one on the left, one on the right (not pictured). keeps them out of site. also pictured, fold down drink holder, for the beers :)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147242)
in this downstairs pic, you can see the 10' screen, the 50" plasma below the screen. top left, you can see my machine . note that the machine clones it's image to either the tv or projector while you can watch another video source on the other screen.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147244)
and here are two pics of the end table i made (i still need to stain it). one shows the table closed, the other with it open to put controllers inside. on the table, back right, is a surface flush usb port. this is where i have my xbox 360 controller (used as a mouse with xpadder for the desktop and as a game controller when in game) and keyboard plugged in to control everything downstairs. there is also a hidden power button on the side so i can turn the beast on remotely.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147236)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147234)
and finally the control panel. i'm thinking of rebuilding it, give it more of the classic arcade panel where the middle sticks out more. that will give me a bit more real estate to add some stuff (thinking of adding 12 button key pads for consoles that use them)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147248)
all of the buttons and trackball light up with the excellent LEDblinky. each player has two sticks (one top fire for each player), 8 buttons (plus start/coin) and a spinner; the trackball is shared.
the spinners are opposite each top fire with both top fires centrally located. thought that would give me more control options, for two stick games with fire buttons.
also, i had a custom touchscreen panel built. so the machine is also touch for my jukebox app. works brilliantly with the touchmaster bartop games and also works great as a make shift light gun, touch what you want to shoot!
anyway, that's her. let me know what you all think!
tony
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Looks really nice but I have to squint! Can you make the pics bigger? :cheers:
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That fridge is cool.
I am going to put shelves in my cab, since only about 10% of the space is actually used. I figure I can store games, movies, etc. in the empty space.
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The fridge and the bottle opener are great!
Why 8 buttons per player though? is that a console emulator thing?
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i'm still trying to think of a better layout for my updated panel. but i did 4 across for my favorite system ever, vectrex. also, neo geo has 4 across.
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That is awesome, brings a new meaning to all in one. :notworthy:
:cheers:
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did i mention she acts as the speakers for my turntables, pictured to the right...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147262)
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This remnds me of an infomercial "but that's not all, it also...".
Do you have any more pics of the steering wheel setup?
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lets see if i can explain it, here are some pics.
first up, inside the control panel. note the black box with metal pins sticking out of it at the front and back. there are two wooden rails on each side to keep it straight.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147264)
and here is the black box removed with the spinner inside, one metal pin removed.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147272)
here is a close up of the front of my panel. the front piece just pops off.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147268)
here is a pic of the box being pulled out. note that the back metal pins drop down into a groove to add stability.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147270)
and here is the box, fully extended. note that the pin on the front of the box has been pulled out and inserted further back. this pin holds the box up at the desired angle.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147266)
here is the box, fully extended, pin holding it in place and wheel attached.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147274)
it's a bit ugly but works very well. when i get around to my updated panel, i will be re-examining the design. it'll still be a removable wheel from the front but it will be better implemented (guides, ball bearings to make it pull out smoothly).
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That's a clever solution. Not necessarily pretty, but hey, it works! And you can always dress it up later.
Love that turntable collection. I finished ripping all my albums to mp3 some time ago, so I don't really use my table much anymore.
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i have most ripped as mp3's an even messed around with mixing from a laptop but it just isn't the same. the tactile feel of vinyl on your finger tips can't be replicated. haven't bought a record in years tho, talk about an expensive hobby...
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Bar fridge in a cab *slaps his forehead* of course! why didn't I think of that? Nice one.
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i used to have the cab in the garage with the pool table, where i first started the project, and the mini fridge right next to it. one day i was sitting there, looking at the cab with the original panel pulled off...
look at fridge
look at cab
back to fridge
back at cab
BRILLIANT
three circular saw cuts later... bAr-cade was born
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Best implementation of a cooler in a cab I've seen, even though the gamer in me can't really approve. Don't drink and drive. :blah:
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Damn you beat me to it, i'm just installing my beer fridge into the base of my cab ;D
Awesome machine, it seems to do everything!!!
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http://(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=90051.0;attach=147274)
it's a bit ugly but works very well. when i get around to my updated panel, i will be re-examining the design. it'll still be a removable wheel from the front but it will be better implemented (guides, ball bearings to make it pull out smoothly).
That sounds like an ideal situation, using sliders and then perhaps some sort of ramp or guide in the bottom of the wheel to angle it once it's extended. Thanks for the pics and description, it's definitely getting the wheels turning (no pun intended). Is that a USB port on the side?
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Do you have good ventilation to the refrigerator coils?
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yup, that is a usb port on the side. come to think of it, i dont believe its a groovy games spinner. i think it may be a tornado or some other old spinner i had.
you know that cover that i show that just pops off the front? notice how it isn't square? that extra notch on the left is to allow the usb cable to come out when the box slides out.
for my updated panel, the pic that i have of the inside of the panel, the two wooden rails that keep the box straight. i'm thinking of having those made of metal. then have the pins on the side of the box be rollers. that should allow for a smooth roll.
the other design i had, but could never quite figure out, was having the spinner facing down. that would make the top of the box flush with the front of the panel. then you would simply pull the spinner up, rotate it up into place with a couple of pressure pins that when lifted into place, would extract on their own to lock the box in place.
as for ventilation on the fridge coils, it's ok. i have some fans in the machine blowing air up with a couple of exhaust fans on the top of the cab drawing air out. my pc with core duo2 e8500 at idle is running at 42 C
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Damn you beat me to it, i'm just installing my beer fridge into the base of my cab ;D
Awesome machine, it seems to do everything!!!
hey shun, if you haven't done so yet, you may consider raising the fridge up a bit so that it's closer to the panel.
i wish i had done that so i could install those surface mounted pedals
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newly added removable star wars yoke (based on 1up's design). mostly the same, i used 3" corner braces internally instead of wood and my box has a bottom (hole cut out so the trackball pokes thru) which adds a bit of stability.
still need to finish it but couldn't wait to test it out :) this sits right on top of my trackball so nothing need to be removed from the panel itself.
front edge of the box has some angled "claws" that hold onto the edge of the CP. just need to add a screw in bolt along the player edge; that's what that little bit of lip is for under the yoke, that will lock it into place. on the main panel, i have a brass "wood insert" that has threads, this is where the "clamping knob" will screw into. i could supply more pics if anyone is interested.
the front edge "claw" and the brass "wood insert" will be a universal mount/screw in for future attachments (i am already sketching out a force feedback steering wheel attachment and also have some legs so i can use my "miracle piano system"
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=183256;image)
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This is my kind of build :applaud:
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just when I thought Ive seen it all :cheers:
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Good stuff. I have been contemplating a couple of different ideas regarding multiple controls and attaching them when needed. You have some really cool ideas and have executed them awesome here. :cheers:
What kind of wheel is that?
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Hey also, can you post a link to 1ups design you refer to? I did some searching and couldnt locate it. Thanks!
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Id stick a BBQ grill on top of that sucker and haul it off the next tail gaiting party!
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Hey also, can you post a link to 1ups design you refer to? I did some searching and couldnt locate it. Thanks!
sure thing!
http://1uparcade.rmfx.com/projects-yokebase.html (http://1uparcade.rmfx.com/projects-yokebase.html)
as for the steering wheel, it is from groovy game gear and snaps right onto their spinner
here are a few more pics of the completed yoke attachment.
here is the panel sans yoke. just under the trackball, you can see the brass wood insert
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=183554;image)
here is a close up of the yoke attachment sitting in place over the trackball. you can see the knob that screws into the afore mentioned wood insert. note the t-molding goes all around even on the bottom. this will keep it from scratching up my panel
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=183556;image)
and here is a close up of the "claws". these wrap around the front edge of the panel, close to the monitor. then the front screws in and it's very solid
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=183558;image)
thats it for now. although, i just found the perfect 12 key numeric keypads that i will be adding! these will be for player 1 and 2 for consoles that had keypads
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Wow. you have some great ideas.
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Thanks Tony! Good stuff. How the heck did you find that Yoke?? Ive been looking for one for a while, they are not easy to come across.
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it was just perfect timing. unclet put his list up for sale and I jumped right on it
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You know if that cab had a urinal on the front, you'd never have to pause the game... ;D
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now with dual trigger sticks! special thanks to Le Chuck for helping me out.
these trigger sticks aren't wireless, i made them a bit differently. i surface mounted a 1/8 audio jack above each stick, the little silver circle in the picture. from the base of the sticks, i have the male end phono plug wire coming out. under the cab, the wire simply plugs into button 1 and 2. the trigger sticks are Performance brand "raider pro". these sticks are symmetrical and can be used by either the left or right hand
both the sticks and the ball tops use the magnetic attachment hack and i can't believe how solid they are! i did do the trigger stick just a bit differently and i will be posting pics once i get the second stick in the mail and do the hack. i did everything as in the wiki but instead of wrapping the putty around the joystick shaft, i put a brass tube in there that slides right onto the joystick shaft. this way, the putty has hardened, sealing the bottom of the handle and with the plug in, i don't ever have to change a battery.
here are the two magnetically attached ball tops. just above each are the phone plug receptacles
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=184915;image)
here is the first stick attached and plugged in
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=184917;image)
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:notworthy: :notworthy: :applaud: :applaud: :applaud: :cheers: :cheers:
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See, that wasn't so bad was it? I'd paint the stereo cable to help it blend a bit. Well done :applaud:
If you have any tips or tricks that you learned along the way and feel would be helpful please update the wiki. Thanks! :cheers:
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I like the stereo plug setup for its simplicity.
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See, that wasn't so bad was it? I'd paint the stereo cable to help it blend a bit. Well done :applaud:
If you have any tips or tricks that you learned along the way and feel would be helpful please update the wiki. Thanks! :cheers:
yeah, next stick will have a black cable and it will plug in straight, not at a right turn. that way, if someone yanks it, it will unplug cleanly.
wow, i've never contributed to a wiki :) soon as i get my second trigger stick, i'll be taking photos so folks can see the brass tube that i used.
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Very nice! Could we also get updated shots of the full panel with the ball tops and trigger sticks installed? I am a huge Robotron / SmashTV / Assault fan, so I really appreciate your layout. Can you switch the trigger sticks between 4-way and 8-way quickly?
The only thing that might take some getting used to is the button placement for SF2/MK play - did having the buttons so far out of alignment with the joystick feel weird at first?
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Very nice! Could we also get updated shots of the full panel with the ball tops and trigger sticks installed? I am a huge Robotron / SmashTV / Assault fan, so I really appreciate your layout. Can you switch the trigger sticks between 4-way and 8-way quickly?
The only thing that might take some getting used to is the button placement for SF2/MK play - did having the buttons so far out of alignment with the joystick feel weird at first?
here are two shots, panel with ball top, panel with trigger sticks.
i will be replacing those center sticks with omni 2's and adding servos so that they will switch from 4 to 8 automatically.
you know, i never really notied an issue with the button / stick layout. if i was champion sf/mk player, the placement probably would throw me. but it was more important to me to get the center sticks aligned for the games you mention than to have a perfect layout for player 2.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=185114;image)
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=185112;image)
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See, that wasn't so bad was it? I'd paint the stereo cable to help it blend a bit. Well done :applaud:
If you have any tips or tricks that you learned along the way and feel would be helpful please update the wiki. Thanks! :cheers:
got the second stick, here is step by step what i did. i've never updated a wiki, not sure if this info would be good on there?
step 1: my open stick and the pasrt i'm going to use
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=185118;image)
step 2: shaft with ball top removed
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=185120;image)
step 3: magnet on shaft
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=185122;image)
step 4: apply some crazy glue around the magnet, slip collar over the magnet until it's flush with the shaft
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=185125;image)
step 5: measure and cut outter brass so that when placed over the magnet and shaft, it will be just above the control panel. do not have this outter tube rest on the panel. i did this the first time and then when moving the stick, the pressure would cause the magnet to disconnect
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=185130;image)
step 6: before placing the oitter tube over the magnet, i had to wrap a bit of duct tape around the magnet/inner tube so that when the outter tube slips over, it's nice and tight
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=185132;image)
step 7: pop the trigger stick on and measure where these tubes will be sitting
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=185136;image)
step 8: fill half the trigger stick base with the mixed putty, press the tube down into place. fyi, for the wiring, i had to drill a small hole in the base of the stick
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=185138;image)
step 9: cover the tube with the rest of the putty. then put the other half of the stick on and squeeze. allow to dry and put the screws back in. with this stick, i did lose the bottom screw as i had to break out some plastic so the tube would fit in. but with this putty, once it dries, it just about bonds to the plastic, keeping the two halves together.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=185140;image)
let me know if you have any questions
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OK, that tutorial is awesome - the trigger stick must feel solid as a rock during play. If you can add that on to the current wireless hot-swap trigger stick wiki by LeChuck, I think it would help a LOT of people out as this is becoming a popular mod. Do you remember where the magnet and tubing was named/purchased from?
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Damn thats clever, yet another "why didnt I think of that" moment
So is it totally solid?
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Clever build. I like the use of headphone jacks for the sticks.
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You know if that cab had a urinal on the front, you'd never have to pause the game... ;D
i was seriously contemplating adding a toaster to it. everyone thinks they're a comedian when they see it for the first time "yeah, but does it make toast?"
why yes, yes it does...
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haha thats awsome and great find on the atari yolkstick :)
one quistion is there anymore info regarding the headphone adapter ADAPTER lol :)
the whole slip on/off stick idea appeals greatly for me and the headphone adapter is a perfect solution to the wiring prob :)
OH and keep up the inventiveness :lol :cheers:
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gonna try answering a few questions here, specifically, parts i used:
1. magnets - these are the exact magnets i used: http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D48-N52 (http://www.kjmagnetics.com/proddetail.asp?prod=D48-N52)
2. collar (small tube around the magnet) - got these at orchard supply. took my magnet in and just looked for a bearing that fit snuggly around it. i think i kept the baggy that it came in and will update this post when i get home
3. tube (this is the larger tube that slips around everything). this is a brass tube bought again at orchard. it's in a section where they have hobby metals. also picked up the brass sheet of thin metal that i used in the balltop, as outlined in the wiki. again, i will update when i get home as the tube still has the sticker on it.
NOTE: for that outter tube, you will need to take your joystick shaft into the store and try different sized tubes as different joysticks have different sized shafts
4. headphone adaptor - this is exactly what i bought: http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103446&numProdsPerPage=60 (http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103446&numProdsPerPage=60)
NOTE: simply unscrew and remove the black housing. solder your wires on then drill a hole that is slightly smaller than the silver female audio jack. then slip it into the panel and screw it down. this piece is threaded so it will screw right into a wood panel
as for them being solid, i think they are great. yes, i can sit there and spin a ball top if i wanted to but during play, it stays put just fine. and all that putty at the base of the trigger sticks really adds a a nice weight to them
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Subbed because this is awesome :cheers:
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Hey I know I'm bringing this back from the dead. I have to ask do you have any issues with the fridge throwing out heat and affecting the wood at all?
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That is an excellent idea!!! I would use it myself, but I don;t think my beer fridge will fit...
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b185/viriiguy/d53797f6.jpg)
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That is an excellent idea!!! I would use it myself, but I don;t think my beer fridge will fit...
(http://i19.photobucket.com/albums/b185/viriiguy/d53797f6.jpg)
Nonsense slap some vasoline on it and shove it in:P
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Nonsense slap some vasoline on it and shove it in:P
[/quote]
LOL!!
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Hey I know I'm bringing this back from the dead. I have to ask do you have any issues with the fridge throwing out heat and affecting the wood at all?
i haven't noticed any issues. i have some fans mounted to the top of the cab drawing air out.
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Did you do anything special in case of a power loss and the thing defrosts all over the base of the cab ??
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nice setup!
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hey all,
been a while but i found some time and decided to add my hang-on controller. first up, thanks to lechuck and jennifer for the thoughts and ideas to get it working.
here is a quick pic of the "proof of concept" for the controller add on. if you look thru this post, this hang-on add on sits on the cab just like my star wars controller add on. i have two sidewinder hacks wired to a 15 pin VGA and all of the wiring for this add on plugs into that port. i'll be doing the same attachment to my star wars controller also someday down the line.
when i redo my panel, the sidewinder VGA cable will be flush mounted on the panel and when lowering these add ons into place, they will plug right in. this way, my FE and MAME will always see those two controllers and you truly hot swap the controllers.
here is the pic to my hang on controller. it's a rough build to just test it. i'll be cleaning and painting it soon so it will look like my star wars controller.
enough of the rambling, here you go.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=294216;image)
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hey all,
been a while but i found some time and decided to add my hang-on controller. first up, thanks to lechuck and jennifer for the thoughts and ideas to get it working.
here is a quick pic of the "proof of concept" for the controller add on. if you look thru this post, this hang-on add on sits on the cab just like my star wars controller add on. i have two sidewinder hacks wired to a 15 pin VGA and all of the wiring for this add on plugs into that port. i'll be doing the same attachment to my star wars controller also someday down the line.
when i redo my panel, the sidewinder VGA cable will be flush mounted on the panel and when lowering these add ons into place, they will plug right in. this way, my FE and MAME will always see those two controllers and you can truly hot swap the controllers.
here is the pic to my hang on controller. it's a rough build to just test it. i'll be cleaning and painting it soon so it will look like my star wars controller.
enough of the rambling, here you go.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=294216;image)
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Here's the full size pic instead of the thumbnail. ;D
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=294215;image)
Scott
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The hang on bars look great, you can pick up some grip covers on Amazon, the right one is 1/8 larger on most (make sure in the description) to fit the throttle handle and they really dress up the look. Just make sure they're long enough if you decide to.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=185138;image)
I was looking at this design again and have an addition that those building their own should consider:
Around the copper sleeve carve a shallow channel (easy to do with a scroll saw or even by hand in the soft metal) and affix an E-clip. This will add a locking element when the putty hardens around the shaft. I haven't had a shaft pull out yet on either of mine but it's an easy cheap step that just adds one more layer of sturdyness to the build.
This build looks so great, keep additing to it!
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thanks for the info on the grips lechuck. i certainly want to replace the right one as it is torn up a bit. the right one is shorter and looks like new, i'm sure it was replaced. but i like the shorter handle on the right as there are two mounted buttons on the left side. for the right, i also want to replace the plastic collar so i'll do moth at the same time.
good idea on the e-clip for that handle.
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ok, this one came to me in a dream, seriously.
i have the pop out 360 wheel but what about those 270 degree games? i thought of making another add on like my star wars and hang on, but in a dream, this made so much sense to me so away we go with...
an add on to my add on! the below is simply a proof of concept build to make sure it is sturdy enough.
first pic, my original star wars add on
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=295697;image)
second pic, my steering wheel add on
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=295695;image)
third pic, my steering wheel add on making sweet add on love to my star wars add on
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=295701;image)
basically, this slips right over the hub of the star wars yoke. i have on order some strong earth magnets that i plan to counter sink into the inside of the steering wheel add on along the top and the front. these magnets have 20 lbs of strength so they should hold rather well. it is pretty snug and sturdy already but i want a bit more strength to hold it in play should a game session get overly aggressive.
the steering wheel is a microsoft precision wheel (not force feedback) that i took apart and gutted. in addition to just the wheel, i am going to be wiring the 6 face buttons and two paddles that are behind the wheel up to the star wars yoke base that i built.
basically, the top of the base that i built, i'll be installing a vga connector that passes wires from the star wars add on wiring up to the top of the case. when you slip the wheel on, you plug it into the aforementioned vga sitting on top of the star wars base.
more pics coming soon as i work on this this weekend.
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couple of quick pics for an update.
here is the star wars add on attached to the cab.
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=295723;image)
and here is the wheel add on attached to the star wars yoke. i think i'm going to cancel my magnet order, this thing slips on and is rock solid. i still need to do the wiring for the buttons but had to do a bit of play "testing" first :)
as is, i can do 4 buttons on the wheel easily but want to get all 8 wired up so have some figuring to do...
(http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=295725;image]http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=103207.0;attach=295725;image)
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Good stuff Tony, looks to be much sturdier than my set-up.
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This build is more and more awesomer with every add-on. That's pretty slick man.
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coming from you lechuck, I take great pride in that!
I think I'm running out of things to add on though, anyone have any suggestions? I still have t2 guns in the back of my head but that's more of a pipe dream.
next up will be the full cabinet from scratch with some of the other ideas I have but I'm not looking forward to that :)