The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Arcade Collecting => Restorations & repair => Topic started by: gargoyle73 on May 22, 2017, 04:59:29 pm
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Hi everyone, here with an Asteroid Deluxe cab I scored DELIVERED $75:) I collect old pinballs, history of working on them, I suck at power supplies though, hence my question.
Game not currently powering on, flip toggle switch nada, pics attached
Have NOT checked fuses yet, BUT most suspicious thing is 2 wire leads disconnected from toggle power switch (see pic), do they need re-attaching?
See anything needs addressing?
For power on does the white 'slam switch' need to be pulled out or in? And also switch on coin door, coin door needs to be closed?
Thanks SO much for any help everybody
Lee in NC
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Attached is a photo of the switch with the cover off. So yes you need to get those reattached. When you have all doors off and coin door open, you pull the switch outward to pass power. Before applying any power, I would disconnected edge connector from pcb and also the molex connector that is by the monitor. There are labeled test points on the power supply, you want to verify all is correct and set 5v to about 5.20v (without pcb connected). Even if you get life out of it, I wouldn't trust it for longer than 10min untill you replace ALL the caps on power supply (doesn't hurt to do voltage regs as well), big blue cap on power brick and all caps in the monitor.
good day.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170522/814ef2aceeaebb1e2799bac096cce0d5.jpg)
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Thank you Chopper, just what I needed
BUT, the more I research, the more I realize how much work it will be to get this thing stable/dependable, SERIOUSLY considering running a Raspberry Pie conversion in there, pull out the vector monitor, lay a monitor flat and make a killer retro MAME machine, hopefully without rendering it un-restorable, I dont want to destroy the history. I can store the monitor in the cab, or even leave it in place, the only thing is the control panel, need to drill for a joy & buttons, BUT perhaps I can make my own panel, wood, OR, anybody know of something that wpuld fit the cab?
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:censored: :angry: :angry:
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:censored: :angry: :angry:
Uh Oh did I hit a sore point? Hey, if its not too hard, I'm ALL about restoring, but I would NEVER defile the machine permanantly.............
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I have an Asteroids Deluxe cocktail. It is my favorite machine in my small collection. It also gets the most compliments from guests.
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It's your machine and you can do what you like with it, but I don't think you will be happy staring at an LCD in the place where a sweet vector monitor should be.
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It's not that hard, dude. Put some effort into it before you ruin a vector cab.
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Okay, so maybe I'll give it a try, anyone have a link to a FULL cap kit, including a 'big blue'?
I Do NOT know how to check voltages on a multimeter, so any detailed tutorials also a plus
ANY help greatly appreciated!
Lee
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A Google search turns up lots of information for Asteroids Deluxe restoration.
Twisted Quarter sells the cap kits you are looking for. There are also several other places. I am not sure if the big blue cap is included, but that is easy to find as well.
YouTube has many multimeter tutorials.
If you have specific questions going forward there are several people here who will chime in. They are all far more knowledgeable than me.
I can provide more specific links later today.
Don't give up on this machine. It's a good one.
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When you get it working again pick up a Braze Multi-Kit.
https://www.highscoresaves.com/braze-asteroids-multigame-high-score-save-kit-493.html (https://www.highscoresaves.com/braze-asteroids-multigame-high-score-save-kit-493.html)
It lets you play the better game (Asteroids) in the better cabinet (Asteroids Deluxe). I installed mine last week and have been in arcade heaven ever since.
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http://www.arcadeshop.com/s/1/c_asteroids%2bdeluxe.htm (http://www.arcadeshop.com/s/1/c_asteroids%2bdeluxe.htm)
and.
http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/153/electrohome-g05-802-805-xy-monitor-cap-kit.htm (http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/153/electrohome-g05-802-805-xy-monitor-cap-kit.htm)
or.
http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/195/wg-19v2000-19-b-w-xy-cap-kit.htm (http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/195/wg-19v2000-19-b-w-xy-cap-kit.htm)
You'll have to figure out which monitor you have. Interwebz is chocked full of all the info you need to know on this game.
If you think you can't fix, maybe offer it up for trade with another local collector. where are you based?
good day.
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If you think you can't fix, maybe offer it up for trade with another local collector. where are you based?
This is a good idea. AD would make a terrible candidate for a MAME cabinet. Trade it to someone who will fix it.
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When you get it working again pick up a Braze Multi-Kit.
It lets you play the better game (Asteroids) in the better cabinet (Asteroids Deluxe). I installed mine last week and have been in arcade heaven ever since.
After years of looking, a couple near misses along with making a stupid offer on one only to get denied, I finally got one through arcadeshop. Great stuff. Lunar Lander NEEDS analog control though.
I ordered a couple 5k linear slider potentiometers with 30mm and 45mm sweep lengths. Attached is a pic of the idea I'm going for. It's out of the way of the buttons, no holes need to be drilled, plenty of room to rest hand to work the fader and the wire can just tuck in between the bezel and panel. Plus it's cheap. :applaud:
Just need to find the analog to digital interface, yeah I know hss will have it, but I'm not on fakebook and miss all his hype list announcements and sign up really late.
good day.
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When you get it working again pick up a Braze Multi-Kit.
https://www.highscoresaves.com/braze-asteroids-multigame-high-score-save-kit-493.html (https://www.highscoresaves.com/braze-asteroids-multigame-high-score-save-kit-493.html)
It lets you play the better game (Asteroids) in the better cabinet (Asteroids Deluxe). I installed mine last week and have been in arcade heaven ever since.
It's a great kit. I have one as well.
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That is really cool. I like that you don't have to modify the panel. Could you provide a link to the parts?
After years of looking, a couple near misses along with making a stupid offer on one only to get denied, I finally got one through arcadeshop. Great stuff. Lunar Lander NEEDS analog control though.
I ordered a couple 5k linear slider potentiometers with 30mm and 45mm sweep lengths. Attached is a pic of the idea I'm going for. It's out of the way of the buttons, no holes need to be drilled, plenty of room to rest hand to work the fader and the wire can just tuck in between the bezel and panel. Plus it's cheap. :applaud:
Just need to find the analog to digital interface, yeah I know hss will have it, but I'm not on fakebook and miss all his hype list announcements and sign up really late.
good day.
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When you get it working again pick up a Braze Multi-Kit.
https://www.highscoresaves.com/braze-asteroids-multigame-high-score-save-kit-493.html (https://www.highscoresaves.com/braze-asteroids-multigame-high-score-save-kit-493.html)
It lets you play the better game (Asteroids) in the better cabinet (Asteroids Deluxe). I installed mine last week and have been in arcade heaven ever since.
It's a great kit. I have one as well.
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It really is a great kit. Much better than I was expecting. To be honest my AD was likely going to be sold soon because nobody played it. The Braze kit has given it new life. Now that I can play Asteroids on it it is my favorite cabinet. If I could go home and play Asteroids right now I would. ;D
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That is really cool. I like that you don't have to modify the panel. Could you provide a link to the parts?
http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?r=652%2dPTA45532015DPB50 (http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?r=652%2dPTA45532015DPB50)
http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?r=652%2dPTA6432010CIB502 (http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?r=652%2dPTA6432010CIB502)
Wanted to try both sweep lengths.
http://www.frys.com/product/1669338?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG (http://www.frys.com/product/1669338?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG)
I'm local to a store and was able to look at the whole selection. I liked this one for the slanted sides and size.
good day.
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Okay, so maybe I'll give it a try, anyone have a link to a FULL cap kit, including a 'big blue'?
I Do NOT know how to check voltages on a multimeter, so any detailed tutorials also a plus
ANY help greatly appreciated!
Lee
Not to be a dick here but you work on pinball machines and don't know how to check voltages with a multimeter?
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That is really cool. I like that you don't have to modify the panel. Could you provide a link to the parts?
http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?r=652%2dPTA45532015DPB50 (http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?r=652%2dPTA45532015DPB50)
http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?r=652%2dPTA6432010CIB502 (http://www.mouser.com/search/ProductDetail.aspx?r=652%2dPTA6432010CIB502)
Wanted to try both sweep lengths.
http://www.frys.com/product/1669338?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG (http://www.frys.com/product/1669338?site=sr:SEARCH:MAIN_RSLT_PG)
I'm local to a store and was able to look at the whole selection. I liked this one for the slanted sides and size.
good day.
Thanks!
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You got a perfectly original restoration candidate here, why don't you use it to improve your technology skills? There's plenty of info online and people here tend to be quite helpful when you don't destroy a classic :timebomb:
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Okay, so maybe I'll give it a try, anyone have a link to a FULL cap kit, including a 'big blue'?
I Do NOT know how to check voltages on a multimeter, so any detailed tutorials also a plus
ANY help greatly appreciated!
Lee
LOL:) Not a dick, yeah cant explain , dont get me wrong I can do a simple fuse check with a multimeter, but the higher science kinda psychs me out, I tend to replace burnt coils instead of looking for underlying problems, PCBs I just ship off for work (so far), have a great eye for switches and the mechanical, but yeah I need to get over my phobia and dive in, I agree with mourix, this is a good opportunity to learn
Not to be a dick here but you work on pinball machines and don't know how to check voltages with a multimeter?
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When you get it working again pick up a Braze Multi-Kit.
https://www.highscoresaves.com/braze-asteroids-multigame-high-score-save-kit-493.html (https://www.highscoresaves.com/braze-asteroids-multigame-high-score-save-kit-493.html)
It lets you play the better game (Asteroids) in the better cabinet (Asteroids Deluxe). I installed mine last week and have been in arcade heaven ever since.
will do, thank you, dear god how I LOVE Lunar Lander
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You can replace a burnt coil over and over and over again if you don't replace the driver transistor that's burning it. That's sort of the point. And since most failures are the result of either too much or too little current for various reasons knowing how to use a DMM is non negotiable in this hobby. Especially in pinball. I'm not saying you have to be able to hack an ATM with the thing but you do need to know how to read AC and DC voltages and verify components. There is no way around it.
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You can replace a burnt coil over and over and over again if you don't replace the driver transistor that's burning it. That's sort of the point. And since most failures are the result of either too much or too little current for various reasons knowing how to use a DMM is non negotiable in this hobby. Especially in pinball. I'm not saying you have to be able to hack an ATM with the thing but you do need to know how to read AC and DC voltages and verify components. There is no way around it.
Like I said up until now I have left such issues up to board experts in SS pins I've worked with, working on it Chad, thanks, have let it intimidate me too long, lemme know if you have recommenations on a solid cost effective MM
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Like I said up until now I have left such issues up to board experts in SS pins I've worked with, working on it Chad, thanks, have let it intimidate me too long, lemme know if you have recommenations on a solid cost effective MM
Either of the two on the right (https://www.radioshack.com/pages/search-results?search={q=multimeter&facets%5B0%5D%5Btype%5D=category&facets%5B0%5D%5Bname%5D=category1&facets%5B0%5D%5Bvalues%5D%5B0%5D=Digital%20Multimeters&offset=0}) will do the job for you and last a long time.
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Thanks Chad! Ordering now, BUT I do have an analogue MM on hand, will it work OK? If so, can anybody walk through what pins to test and what voltages I'd hope to see?
DAMMIT, just discovered, the 3D cardboard background is missing from my cab, probably up on some wankers wall somewhere, grrrrrr, and I LOVE the 3D effect, only repro I see is TWO HUNDRED on epay. Any ideas? Surely there are other repros?
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Thanks Chad! Ordering now, BUT I do have an analogue MM on hand, will it work OK? If so, can anybody walk through what pins to test and what voltages I'd hope to see?
DAMMIT, just discovered, the 3D cardboard background is missing from my cab, probably up on some wankers wall somewhere, grrrrrr, and I LOVE the 3D effect, only repro I see is TWO HUNDRED on epay. Any ideas? Surely there are other repros?
Try Phoenixarcade.com
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phoenix are the guys on ebay:) 190 shipped, if I have to I have
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UPDATE - against possible better judgement, I reconnected the toggle and powered on, red leds on pcb and monitor board, no video, BUT set on freeplay, the credit buttons flash, one and two player buttons start a game (hear sounds for all buttons), and game ends, credit buttons go back flashing, repeat.
I assume this is a decent sign, but still doesnt mean board is all good? Also assuming I still need to replace all caps, checking fuses in next few days
Chopper - thank you for your tutorial
Feedback? Thanks so much everybody
Lee
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Very likely means you have a game playing blind with a video problem. Not quite isolated to monitor or boardset yet but you are a lot of the way there to a working game. Don't give up on this game. We can help you.
I will look around my basement. It's possible I have an extra AD background. If not, it's not super hard to make a new one, or even upgrade to something cooler. It's really just a posterboard with some black light reactive asteroids.
EDIT: I found it. I'll send it to you for the cost of shipping with one condition. This game does not get converted. If you don't get it working then you move it on to someone else who will. I might have some other AD parts as well if I look around. Let me know what you need.
Does this game have the mirror intact?
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Holy WOW Chad, thank you for your offer man, very kind, and one must respect your fight for arcade purity:) And as I am a convert having worked today, I am totally onboard with keeping the purity of the vector cab, so if offer still stands I'd love the piece and swear not to destroy/alter my cab:) Digging through it and making it come back to life a bit has made me respect the engineering so much more.
Mirror - it IS in there, BUT so far I see no 'opaqueness', should I be able to see through it to the cab back? How did the asteroid black light piece show through? Is it possible someone put a regular mirror in? Or painted/altered the original mirror back once they snagged the cardboard insert? Or is there just something I'm not seeing yet?
Also, the blue film is missing to cover the monitor, easy to mimic I assume?
Werent there TWO different upright AD cab variations?
Thank you as always guys
Lee
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ChadTower. Kudos to you.
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It's known as a half silvered mirror or 2 way mirror.
Are you just missing the film or is the front inner art gone to? If the front inner art is missing, that is super easy to replicate with using some black foam core art board from hobby lobby. The cab I have came with a "recreation" with the foam care material and they did a good job with it. If yours is missing and as you move further along I can pull mine and snap pics to give you an idea. See here for info on film: http://www.biltronix.com/asteroids_dlx.html (http://www.biltronix.com/asteroids_dlx.html)
The cab stayed the same throughout its production life, but there are 2 different versions of the background artwork. I have the more green version (pic attached) and there is a orange version (personally I dig the green version more).
good day.
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chopper - thank you, yes I do still have the front cardboard art and monitor cover, just missing the film, I saw that page and will order some!
http://www.classicgaming.cc/classics/asteroids/graphics (http://www.classicgaming.cc/classics/asteroids/graphics)
In case someone stumbles on the thread, hi res backgrounds for printing
I actually think I prefer the orange BG but both are cool, I DO like how Phoenix raised the large asteroid off the BG for added 3D effect, I may copy that
Hope to check fuses tonight after work
Lee
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http://www.classicgaming.cc/classics/asteroids/graphics (http://www.classicgaming.cc/classics/asteroids/graphics)
In case someone stumbles on the thread, hi res backgrounds for printing
I actually think I prefer the orange BG but both are cool, I DO like how Phoenix raised the large asteroid off the BG for added 3D effect, I may copy that
Hope to check fuses tonight after work
Lee
Printing a background from that link would be a waste of time and money. The backgrounds are done with uv ink that react to black lights. Also this game uses what is known as a black light "blue" bulb (the bulb looks white when turned off) unlike the common party type black light. Attached are pics of the correct "blue" bulb and wrong "black" bulb. Also the 3d asteroids and ship are on the stock art, Phoenix just did a reproduction of an old one.
good day.
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chopper - gotcha, original is obviously best, but have a lot of experience with UV reacting ink, I think its doable, if you are good, to go in over a print and paint in a decent/solid effect
Chad - sent you a PM, let me know and thanks again so much!
Okay cap kits ordered along with my first solder sucker, BUT in the meantime anyone have tips on investigating why my monitor isnt working? Is shipping the pcb off for inspection/maintenance/fixing an inevitability?
Today will check/replace fuses everywhere, double check molex connectors, any other ideas?
I could still really use a step-by-step explanation of checking voltages with a MM, off to Radioshack today to procure a digital unit
Thanks for the help/support all
Lee
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UPDATE - checked all fuses today, power supply all fine, 2 DEAD on monitor board, switched out, powered on and behold I got some 'neck glow' in monitor (albeit feint but there, how bright should it be?) which is new, still no visuals though, red leds on pcb & monitor board, I can still start a game but it seems to reset when first asteroid explodes, sound is good & strong.
Next? Go ahead and switch out all capacitors? Should I go ahead and ship the board off? Or try and address myself? Also was planning on doing the Braze kit, should I go ahead and order/install? However I assume the pcb could also be culprit in no picture?
Lee
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You still haven't mentioned make and model of the monitor, AD was produced using 2 different types or it could've been switched to another model at some point. Once you know make / model you will be able to find flow charts and repair logs to help diagnose issue.
good day.
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Monitor - Amperex M50-102W, or wait is that just the tube?
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more monitor pics - where is model #?
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That is an Electrohome G05-802. I see some severe charring below one of the large caps, it's clear that it's suffered a failure that might need a little more electronic experience than what you may have. There are some folks that you could send the deflection pcb and HV cage to and have them rebuild them for you.
In other news, spent some time at the bench and got my thruster box done. The fader is too tall if it were mounted directly to the top of box. I crudely cut some chunks of hdpe to use as internal brackets to mount fader to pcb mounts inside of box. Everything went perfect til I didn't noticed 1 of the screws I used had just a little extra on the tip :banghead: and created the little bump on the box top. :cry:
All wired up and the A to D interface that I don't have is ready to be plugged in. :hissy:
good day.
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All wired up and the A to D interface that I don't have is ready to be plugged in. :hissy:
There should be some ready pretty soon...
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That is an Electrohome G05-802. I see some severe charring below one of the large caps, it's clear that it's suffered a failure that might need a little more electronic experience than what you may have. There are some folks that you could send the deflection pcb and HV cage to and have them rebuild them for you.
In other news, spent some time at the bench and got my thruster box done. The fader is too tall if it were mounted directly to the top of box. I crudely cut some chunks of hdpe to use as internal brackets to mount fader to pcb mounts inside of box. Everything went perfect til I didn't noticed 1 of the screws I used had just a little extra on the tip :banghead: and created the little bump on the box top. :cry:
All wired up and the A to D interface that I don't have is ready to be plugged in. :hissy:
good day.
Thanks so much Chopper, I see of what you speak, any suggestions on who to contact to do the work? Any chance theres someone who could look at the board, cage, AND game pcb? Would be nice to ship all at same time. Does CoinOp Cauldron still do board work? Also, is it worth trying to replace the caps myself to see if it works after? I assume such an issue has probably hurt other board components.
Lunar Lander - SWEET project, beautiful work man, and I assume you seek a switch that can be on an AD console and not be too intrusive, BUT the mammoth original thruster switch on LL sure feels beefy and awesome (below), if you have time please keep posting pics and possible parts list, would love to attempt one once my cab is back to life
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Recommendations of techs are always tricky. There are a few out there, but they're not always taking jobs, and they do specialize somewhat. Best thing to do is probably to go to KLOV or a fairly local Facebook group for the hobby and ask there. And then ask for a reference or two since you're new to the hobby.
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Chad - will do, thank you
Possible issue - so the board does look charred in that area, BUT I am getting glow at base of tube and red led, several sites warn that a bad game pcb that is 'playing blind' (which mine possibly IS) can give illusion of a bad monitor, am I not best FIRST sending off game board for repair BEFORE I address monitor?
Or does the pic tell us %100 repairs are needed?
arcadecup.com - any opinions? $195 plus shipping
Thanks guys
Lee
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The LED on the deflection board in the monitor is the 'spot killer'. Basically, it's a circuit that shuts off the electron beam if the monitor is not getting a signal that is displayable by the monitor. It protects the CRT from phosphor burn in the center of the screen in the case of bad input. It also protects the CRT from monitor defects that could cause the same thing.
Yes, a bad input signal from the game board can cause that spot killer to activate. Yes, a monitor fault can cause it too. And yes, a problem with the wiring harness can cause that even in the presence of a working board and working monitor.
I always go through these Atari vectors in this order. Rebuild the power supply in the bottom of the cabinet and make any repairs to the connectors there. Move on to the AR board and rebuild that/repair connectors. Inspect edge connectors at the game PCB and make any repairs there. Power up game and verify that you're getting good power at all test points on the AR and on the game PCB. Once you get to this point you're ready to address the monitor and the game PCB.
If you don't have good clean power and good stable connectors the game will never be reliable even if everything is functional. The molex connectors on the Atari games are problematic at this point. The pins are easily bent, they're loose in the housing, and you're going to be cycling them quite a few times as you restore the game. It is often worth the trouble of repinning all of the square connectors just to be sure.
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There should be some ready pretty soon...
(http://farm4.staticflickr.com/3237/2802202345_08c9225dac.jpg)
good day.
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There should be some ready pretty soon...
good day.
Just sayin'...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170602/cb1bfb2f3c600fa49c8ba54f3a66e95c.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
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There should be some ready pretty soon...
good day.
Just sayin'...
(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170602/cb1bfb2f3c600fa49c8ba54f3a66e95c.jpg)
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Being a newb, are these required for a working thruster box/switch? If so where does one purchase?
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Being a newb, are these required for a working thruster box/switch? If so where does one purchase?
This all stems back to the "Braze Multi Game" add on from page one. The original board sets lack the analog to digital hardware needed for a thruster on the multigame. Now, Lunar Lander is completely playable out of the box using the buttons on the control panel. BUT, the add on board has a spot for a 10pin header that allows you to plug in what is needed for the analog to 8bit binary conversion that the multigame can use. The thruster on Lunar Lander originally used a 5K potentiometer, so in my little box I'm using a 5k slider pot, yes the real thruster would be cool, but nah I just want analog control of the thrust to get a fair shot at playing the game and not going broke and destroying my panel.
and here: http://highscoresaves.com/ (http://highscoresaves.com/) at some point :badmood:
good day.
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PM me Chopper
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I keep orbiting around the idea of grabbing that kit. Hrm.
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Being a newb, are these required for a working thruster box/switch? If so where does one purchase?
This all stems back to the "Braze Multi Game" add on from page one. The original board sets lack the analog to digital hardware needed for a thruster on the multigame. Now, Lunar Lander is completely playable out of the box using the buttons on the control panel. BUT, the add on board has a spot for a 10pin header that allows you to plug in what is needed for the analog to 8bit binary conversion that the multigame can use. The thruster on Lunar Lander originally used a 5K potentiometer, so in my little box I'm using a 5k slider pot, yes the real thruster would be cool, but nah I just want analog control of the thrust to get a fair shot at playing the game and not going broke and destroying my panel.
and here: http://highscoresaves.com/ (http://highscoresaves.com/) at some point :badmood:
good day.
Which slider pot did you decide to go with?
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The 45mm sweep.
good day.
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The 45mm sweep.
good day.
Do you have a link for the knob?
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game/sound board and monitor chassis going out tomorrow for repair/rebuild, going with PNL Video in California for monitor, have 2 solid recs, $140 plus shipping, they have listings on ebay if interested. In the meantime working on power supply, popping out 'Big Blue' sometime this week, my first cap switch. Wish me luck:)
Lee
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If you are comfortable taking things apart then disconnect the fuse block, clean that and if there are any qualms about it replace it. Clean all of the quick disconnects. Do the same for the cabinet fuse holder (the one in the black screw holder). Take note of the bridge rectifier on the underside of the metal plate. There's a decent chance you're going to have to replace that before this is over. Take an effort to bullet proof the power block now and you'll save yourself real headaches later.
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If you are comfortable taking things apart then disconnect the fuse block, clean that and if there are any qualms about it replace it. Clean all of the quick disconnects. Do the same for the cabinet fuse holder (the one in the black screw holder). Take note of the bridge rectifier on the underside of the metal plate. There's a decent chance you're going to have to replace that before this is over. Take an effort to bullet proof the power block now and you'll save yourself real headaches later.
will do thank you!
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The 45mm sweep.
good day.
Do you have a link for the knob?
I don't , cuase I'm kinda borrowing it from a mixer I have out in the garage. Still mildly searching for something.
http://youtu.be/-KJPP7GkuPU
Thruster interface?
good day.
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The 45mm sweep.
good day.
Do you have a link for the knob?
I don't , cuase I'm kinda borrowing it from a mixer I have out in the garage. Still mildly searching for something.
http://youtu.be/-KJPP7GkuPU
Thruster interface?
good day.
Giving them to Joe Friday morning!
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Okay, BACK to tackling this sucker, I want this thing WORKING ;D
So I never got the monitor chassis shipped, pulled it out today, MAN I do NOT see where or how to get the tube separated from the chassis at the caged box, any help greatly appreciated! The cord connecting to tube is covered in melty goop, looks like rubber connector has melted/degraded over the years but worry itt'l seep under the connector and splatter the cathode, the connection on the tube spins, but how to completely disconnect? Need to ship the cage asap.
Now I really look at it, heavy burn-in, is the tube still usable? What will it look like in game play? Or will I need to replace tube? see pics
Thanks so much everybody, sooner you post the better, but no pressure
Lee in NC
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edited
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http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-B-W-CRT-for-Electrohome-19VARP4-XY-Display-Atari-/141432748151?epid=1763464173&hash=item20ee0c7877:g:RuYAAOSwPH9ZfmoM (http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-B-W-CRT-for-Electrohome-19VARP4-XY-Display-Atari-/141432748151?epid=1763464173&hash=item20ee0c7877:g:RuYAAOSwPH9ZfmoM)
would this be a straight swap? how difficult to solder on the wires/harnesses?
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help!:)
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Okay, so found all online, discharged the monitor without incident (my first) successfully, squeezed the plug and out pops the anode, disconnected all molex, the grounding frame and screws, and out she pops, cage ready to ship tomorrow
Considering ordering the new monitor, this is a lotta work, and I dont wanna do it again in 6 months:) DO IT RIGHT or dont do it? STILL WANT OPINIONS ON HOW BAD SCREEN BURN WILL SHOW IN GAMEPLAY. $250 is a lotta money.
Chad, dont let me down on that artwork man, you are my only hope Obi-Wan:)
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echo! Little help?
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My Asteroids Deluxe has some burn. It is not noticeable during game play. Probably because the vector graphics are so freakin' bright. I will snap a pic of my screen burn and post it tonight.
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Burn probably won't be that noticable, so let's just focus on getting it up and running first.
A CRT like that would need a yoke swap/alligment and full adjustments, all while it's turned on. It's beautiful when done correctly, but as a beginner I'd think twice before starting a project like that.
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Mike - thank you I'd REALLY like to see. $250 is a lot of bread:)
Mourix - thank you had no idea but just looked it up, I *think* I could handle it but time is limited with work, so if i can stick with this tube=easier and cheaper
Will take about a week to get pcb and monitor cage back
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Not sure if this helps. I couldn't get the burn to show on camera without the flash.(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170831/4eb1281a9f9616c6803714691c61c879.jpg)(https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20170831/8e52f21fa9e81cc4ce637b74e0b68f7c.jpg)
Sent from my Pixel using Tapatalk
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I wouldn't worry about the burn in.
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Thanks guys, eases my mind, and pocky book:)
Mike - that image really helps, thank you sir
SO the board is off, as is the chassis, I predict I'll be back together and testing in 7-10 days
Chad - lemme know when u can ship I'll paypal u right up, and thank you
REALLY wanna do braze, but going to wait till all running smoothly, blew this months budget on board & cage
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UPDATE
Game board fixed and running smooth (hear audio and gameplay, no longer resets)
BUT I chickened out when I got to the shipping office with the Electrohome chassis, $90 ONE WAY shipping, with the repair that means $330 in monitor and I dont have the cash, I think capping these boards is too much, and so much more to check, SO I am going to tackle the 4 transistors in the chassis, and send in the 2 monitor boards to be checked.
Just ordered transistors for replacement
Getting there!
Chad you are my only hope for the cardboard background:)
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HELP these transistors, do I need to apply thermal paste between transistor and chassis? Can I use same paste as, say, a CPU install?
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bump! lil help
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nobody?
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Approaching 'D-Day' - monitor boards all re-capped, everything cleaned, chassis re-assembled (that tube spring for grounding band that latches onto chassis was pure HELL), game and sound boards checked out %100, re-built PSU including new Big Blue and fuse assemblies, everything re-connected. Getting my fire extinguisher re-charged over the weekend just in case:) Then I will power on, praying for picture and no spot killer, I have done everything I can think of. Will post update.
Oh, any recs for a coin door sticker? To buy? To make? Never made a decal before.
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Hope it goes well. Check and adjust the 5v before connecting the edge connector to game pcb. You will see the test lugs for 5v and gnd on the power supply.
good day.
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Im back to work!
QUESTION - I ordered a new bridge rectifier, but the attachment points are slightly different, does it matter where each wire is placed? What is proper orientation of new rectifier?
Thanks!
Lee
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Look up the "data sheets" for each part number and they'll be called out there for comparison.
good day.
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Thanks, but new rectifier has no part #?
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http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/1175/3504-bridge-rectifier-lug.htm (http://www.arcadeshop.com/i/1175/3504-bridge-rectifier-lug.htm)
good day.
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Bingo, shoulda seen it, thank you, traced positive/negative from new big blue capacitor, assembling the PSU now, may try power on over weekend, fingers crossed ;D :notworthy: