Post by: shaolindrunkard on November 28, 2016, 07:13:33 pm
In my opinion it works surprisingly well and is very inexpensive compared to other solutions.
I've found good deals on these Happ wheel assemblies on Ebay before and I think its pretty rad that you could just buy the assembly and
make yourself a nice heavy duty racing wheel...
I didn't want to have to buy a whole racing wheel and take it apart to hook up to this one, nor do I have the dough for 3 g27s. But I really wanted the durability of the original Happ wheel. One bonus is that the 360 gamepad is pretty universal as far as Emulators and PC games. Even games that don't officially support wheels work with this setup.
Anyway just wanted to share this, I think its pretty awesome. Please don't judge too harshly for the bad driving in spots, it really is my driving not the controls...
http://youtu.be/zujhzCM1ygA (http://youtu.be/zujhzCM1ygA)
Post by: BadMouth on November 29, 2016, 09:16:36 am
Sorry couldn't figure out how to embed the video...
https://www.youtube.com/embed/zujhzCM1ygA (https://www.youtube.com/embed/zujhzCM1ygA)
just click share on youtube, copy and past the link in your post, and delete the s from https.
The forum software will do the rest, no formatting necessary
http://youtu.be/zujhzCM1ygA (http://youtu.be/zujhzCM1ygA)
You could add rumble, but it would require you finding a bigger rumble motor, power supply for it, then using a NPN transistor or solid state relay to trigger it.
I have a big two handed positional gun from Wild Pilots that shakes the crap out of my hands.
Post by: shaolindrunkard on November 29, 2016, 10:35:13 am
Post by: BadMouth on November 29, 2016, 11:05:31 am
(look at the "people also viewed" section)
The one in my gun is about that size and makes your hands numb after 20 minutes.
It's shaking the entire time the trigger is pulled though.
Not sure how much current the power supply would need to handle.
A 2A laptop brick might be enough.
Post by: shaolindrunkard on November 29, 2016, 11:39:14 am
Post by: Brian74 on November 29, 2016, 09:16:04 pm
Post by: shaolindrunkard on November 29, 2016, 09:30:43 pm
Post by: BadMouth on November 30, 2016, 07:31:45 am
You could use that brushless power amplifier that ppl used to do that logitech happ wheel hack. www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=&url=http%3A%2F%2Fpicclick.ca%2FAdvanced-Motion-Controls-B126A6N-SY2-Brushless-PWM-Servo-Amplifier-322234949054.html&psig=AFQjCNH8FRbVf1Q-MllWTPKALPhjxn3sbA&ust=1480558387445454 (http://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=&url=http%3A%2F%2Fpicclick.ca%2FAdvanced-Motion-Controls-B126A6N-SY2-Brushless-PWM-Servo-Amplifier-322234949054.html&psig=AFQjCNH8FRbVf1Q-MllWTPKALPhjxn3sbA&ust=1480558387445454)You don't need anything that expensive. This is plain dumb on/off shaker motor that only turns one direction. A $15 DC/DC solid state relay or $1 NPN transistor would do.
Post by: Brian74 on November 30, 2016, 07:47:56 am
Sent from my LG-H901 using Tapatalk
Post by: shaolindrunkard on November 30, 2016, 10:33:44 am
You could use that brushless power amplifier that ppl used to do that logitech happ wheel hack. www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=&url=http%3A%2F%2Fpicclick.ca%2FAdvanced-Motion-Controls-B126A6N-SY2-Brushless-PWM-Servo-Amplifier-322234949054.html&psig=AFQjCNH8FRbVf1Q-MllWTPKALPhjxn3sbA&ust=1480558387445454 (http://www.google.com/url?sa=i&rct=j&q=&esrc=s&source=images&cd=&cad=rja&uact=8&ved=&url=http%3A%2F%2Fpicclick.ca%2FAdvanced-Motion-Controls-B126A6N-SY2-Brushless-PWM-Servo-Amplifier-322234949054.html&psig=AFQjCNH8FRbVf1Q-MllWTPKALPhjxn3sbA&ust=1480558387445454)You don't need anything that expensive. This is plain dumb on/off shaker motor that only turns one direction. A $15 DC/DC solid state relay or $1 NPN transistor would do.
Yeah I think the tricky part is the output to the rumble motors is only like 2v peak I think. I'm having a tough time finding anything that will go from 2v to 12-24v. I did find a small step-up transformer that will take the 2v and output a steady 5v but that's probably not enough...
Post by: BadMouth on November 30, 2016, 11:02:08 am
Yeah I think the tricky part is the output to the rumble motors is only like 2v peak I think. I'm having a tough time finding anything that will go from 2v to 12-24v. I did find a small step-up transformer that will take the 2v and output a steady 5v but that's probably not enough...
What you want is to use the low power coming from the controller to switch on higher power from a different power supply.
You don't want to step it up using only the power coming out of the controller.
Looking at the solid state relays, it does look like most of them require at least 3v to trigger.
Google "using NPN transistor as relay" and read up.
Also look up "protection diode"
That is what you want to do.
It sounds complicated, but all we're talking about here is running the lead from the xbox controller through a diode (which doesn't let anything move backwards through it) to one leg on a transistor.
Then you'll have a bigger power supply running to the motor with the power lead cut and routed through the other two legs on the transistor.
It's that simple. The hardest part will be finding the correct values that you need. If the transistor gets too hot, you may have to add a heat sink.
Are you sure the motors are only getting 2v? That sounds low to me, but I haven't tested them.
EDIT: I tell you what... I have these parts laying around. Let me know how much voltage each vibration motor lead is putting out (IIRC there is a weak and strong motor) so I can do some testing.
If it works I'll mail you an already built circuit.
Post by: shaolindrunkard on November 30, 2016, 11:51:25 am
Post by: baritonomarchetto on December 01, 2016, 01:01:13 am
)Post by: shaolindrunkard on December 01, 2016, 08:43:39 am
Post by: BadMouth on December 01, 2016, 09:40:39 am
A chinese DC to DC solid state relay will work. I have that same setup in my racing rig. You can turn it on with the signal coming from the xbox360 pad (you measured 2V because you used a multimeter, not an oscilloscope, do you?
well, there you go. Verified working. Just use one of those then.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Plastic-Metal-Solid-State-Relay-SSR-DC-DC-25A-3-32VDC-5-60VDC-TS-/172167582253?hash=item2815fcd22d:g:CcIAAOSwHMJYMutw (http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Plastic-Metal-Solid-State-Relay-SSR-DC-DC-25A-3-32VDC-5-60VDC-TS-/172167582253?hash=item2815fcd22d:g:CcIAAOSwHMJYMutw)
If it were me, I'd probably spring for the slightly more solid looking ones:
http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Solid-State-Relay-SSR-40-DD-DC-DC-40A-3-32VDC-Input-5-60VDC-Output-X5RG-/251656361870?hash=item3a97e3578e:g:lj4AAOSw2GlXIe3w (http://www.ebay.com/itm/New-Solid-State-Relay-SSR-40-DD-DC-DC-40A-3-32VDC-Input-5-60VDC-Output-X5RG-/251656361870?hash=item3a97e3578e:g:lj4AAOSw2GlXIe3w)
That's what I'm using in my gun, but I don't recall how many AMPs it is rated for. You really only need like 2-6A depending on which motors you're using.
Post by: shaolindrunkard on December 01, 2016, 10:19:23 am
Post by: shaolindrunkard on December 01, 2016, 10:41:29 am
Post by: baritonomarchetto on December 01, 2016, 11:03:09 am
To be even safer, check the current actually draw (at start and in normal operation) at the voltage you are going to juice your motor with your multimeter