The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Monitor/Video Forum => Topic started by: retrocat on December 06, 2019, 08:29:55 am
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I have a hantarex polo 25 that is ticking. searching for similar issues online, it seems like everyone with ticking has no neck glow, but i get neck glow each time it ticks. does anyone know what could cause this condition?
the monitor was working previously, with picture issues. i replaced all electrolytic capacitors, flyback, and HOT, and it looked great and ran for some time. since the ticking started, i've since replaced the voltage regulator, and following the polo flowchart, replaced the HV caps c170, c172, c174, c175, and diodes d129, d135, with no luck. i found a bad trace on one of the flyback pins as well, and have soldered a jumper wire. everything from the flowchart checks out as far as i can tell, though i don't know how to test the flyback.. reading the b+ i get ~30V and each time it ticks/neck glows it jumps up ~70V.
thanks in advance for any info or guidance, i have been working on this thing for weeks and its driving me mad :(
https://youtu.be/q5be9Mth7bU
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so basically the horizontal deflection is not running
desolder centre pin of the T114 and add a 40w lamp to the track of the centre pin and ground, check all voltages 145vdc b+, 26vdc, 16vdc at power supply section test points and 12v at tp10
if all correct check T114 out of circuit, then report findings
it actually sounds like a broken track somewhere as you have heaters
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i desoldered the center HOT pin, and connected the lightbulb.
when i plugged in the chassis, the bulb lit up, but R255 got really hot and started smoking, so i unplugged it..
does this indicate anything?
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r255 is 100 ohm metal oxide, check d142, ic103
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this R255 is 125 ohm carbon film. i'll order the correct one.
D142 tests ok.
how can i test ic103?
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i ordered a replacement IC103 tda1675a
i'll update when i get it installed
also, HOT tests okay, and i have 2 spares, both of which i have tried with no luck.
one of the pins on the flyback (i think its pin 8?) is missing the pad, but there is no trace to it. this is okay right?
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yes pin 8 does not have a track
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replacement IC103 tda1675a came in
swapped it out
hooked up the light bulb again on desoldered HOT center pin trace and R255 didn't get hot this time
TP1 had 157V
TP2... i touched the wrong way somehow with my multimeter and T101 blew up..... :banghead:
so i've ordered buz90a to replace T101 with
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you will need to check all the diodes and a few resistors around t101 now
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i replaced T101.
no more ticking or neck glow,
now b+ is too high (172)
cant find any bad traces or anything wrong with flyback.
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open circuit in horizontal deflection, could be an open circuit resistor or broken track or the coil you put in is open circuit
did you fit a new flyback?
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yeah, this has a new flyback
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so much to look at, it will be either open circuit resistor or broken track or short in horizontal deflection circuit
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HI :cheers:
Im a newbee, trying to learn from the masters on this forum 8)
Still I might have a tip
Try to check TH102 (the coil in front of the flyback) - I have two chassis where TH102 had a broken wire, that caused B+ to go high when flyback where connected.
See my test and fix of TH102 here http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,161614.0.html#lastPost
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HI :cheers:
Im a newbee, trying to learn from the masters on this forum 8)
Still I might have a tip
Try to check TH102 (the coil in front of the flyback) - I have two chassis where TH102 had a broken wire, that caused B+ to go high when flyback where connected.
See my test and fix of TH102 here http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,161614.0.html#lastPost
i saw your post before while troubleshooting and did check th102. it isn't faulty.
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Hi
I also have had an issue with high b+ due to a bad solder connection in the PSU part.
I fixed it by re solder all the components in the PSU selection, then my B+ where back to normal.
As I recall it where the two big resistors in the psu part where one of them had a bad/cold connection to the PCB and it where really hard to see.
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thanks. i'll try to reflow the solder and see how it goes.
i got another chassis that is doing the same thing when connected to this tube (the neck flashing in the video in the first post). does this indicate a tube problem? is there a way i can test the tube to know its ok?
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tube has gone to air, in other words its knackered