The NEW Build Your Own Arcade Controls
Main => Buy/Sell/Trade - non-retail => Topic started by: bobbyb13 on December 08, 2021, 06:09:37 pm
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Anybody have one they don't need and would be willing to part with?
I was told the Arch Rivals one is surely most prevalent of the 49 way type but maybe any Williams 49 will work.
Trying to build a Sinistar cabinet and have all the main bits but the stick at this point.
Appreciate any help!
Bobby
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Anybody have one they don't need and would be willing to part with?
Divemaster carries them.
http://www.arcadeemulator.net/cgi-bin/shop/cp-app.cgi?usr=51F3302900&rnd=6907118&rrc=N&affl=&cip=&act=&aff=&pg=prod&ref=49-Way+Joystick&cat=Joysticks&catstr=HOME:Joysticks (http://www.arcadeemulator.net/cgi-bin/shop/cp-app.cgi?usr=51F3302900&rnd=6907118&rrc=N&affl=&cip=&act=&aff=&pg=prod&ref=49-Way+Joystick&cat=Joysticks&catstr=HOME:Joysticks)
Check out u_rebelscum (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=profile;u=202)'s page here (https://web.archive.org/web/20120201184812/http://urebelscum.speedhost.com/49waySticks.html) for technical info about 49-way sticks.
If you need a 49-way encoder, GGG carries this one (https://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76_81&products_id=233) and this one (https://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76_81&products_id=202).
Scott
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Anybody have one they don't need and would be willing to part with?
Divemaster carries them.
http://www.arcadeemulator.net/cgi-bin/shop/cp-app.cgi?usr=51F3302900&rnd=6907118&rrc=N&affl=&cip=&act=&aff=&pg=prod&ref=49-Way+Joystick&cat=Joysticks&catstr=HOME:Joysticks (http://www.arcadeemulator.net/cgi-bin/shop/cp-app.cgi?usr=51F3302900&rnd=6907118&rrc=N&affl=&cip=&act=&aff=&pg=prod&ref=49-Way+Joystick&cat=Joysticks&catstr=HOME:Joysticks)
Check out u_rebelscum (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=profile;u=202)'s page here (https://web.archive.org/web/20120201184812/http://urebelscum.speedhost.com/49waySticks.html) for technical info about 49-way sticks.
If you need a 49-way encoder, GGG carries this one (https://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76_81&products_id=233) and this one (https://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=76_81&products_id=202).
Scott
Thank you as always for the reply Scott!
I had forgotten about that brilliant stick breakdown from u_rebelscum.
I'm using a Jrok board for this cabinet and I believe only a Williams 49 will work.
If only I could use a Happ 49 in this instance (since I have two of those :) )
Or if I was smart enough to be able to build a board to invert all the outputs from my Happ (apparently they are the antithesis of each other) and then build a proper harness to plug into the Jrok then maybe I could use it?!
I know the rubber centering scenario is quite different between the two but after 35 years of not playing Sinistar I could never tell the difference myself I'm sure.
I have wanted to try using the Happ version as a regular stick in a MAME cabinet though so maybe I will finally get to that after all of this.
:lol
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I'm using a Jrok board for this cabinet and I believe only a Williams 49 will work.
I saw that in this KLOV thread (https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/jrok-multi-williams-board-which-49-way-joystick-is-supported.481738/), but I also read here (https://www.jrok.com/hardware/wsf/) that "When enabled the sysfpga expects a 49-way Williams or Midway/Happ joystick to be connected to the pin header on the board." :dunno
If only I could use a Happ 49 in this instance (since I have two of those :) )
Or if I was smart enough to be able to build a board to invert all the outputs from my Happ (apparently they are the antithesis of each other) and then build a proper harness to plug into the Jrok then maybe I could use it?!
Check out reply #10 in this (https://forums.arcade-museum.com/threads/the-49-way-joystick-thread.483671/) KLOV thread.
- Williams games that use one, use a Williams 49-way.
- Midway games that use one, use a Midway 49-way.
They are not interchangeable.
Of course they're interchangeable -- I made adapter boards to do it.
Couldn't find a link to the adapter boards he's referring to, but it might be worth contacting him.
This page confirms that the Midway/Happ and Williams pinouts are the same, but the signal logic is inverted.
http://www.seanriddle.com/49way.html (http://www.seanriddle.com/49way.html)
It's probably just a matter of running the eight data lines through a simple inverter circuit like this one (http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/Articles/7404-inverter-circuit.php). ;D
- As explained here (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,163889.msg1728853.html#msg1728853), you probably want to use a 74LS04 (https://twistywristarcade.com/74ls-series/136-74ls04.html) or 74HCT04 to keep the logic at TTL levels instead of the CMOS levels you'd get from a 74HC04.
- Naturally, you'll want Dual Inline Package (DIP) instead of surface mount (SMD) ICs for breadboard/solderable-breadboard/perfboard use.
(http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/images/7404-inverter-pinout.png) (http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/images/7404-inverter-circuit.png) (http://www.learningaboutelectronics.com/images/7404-inverter-breadboard-circuit.png)
It's easy to breadboard the circuit.
- You'll need two of those ICs since there are only 6 inverters per IC.
- Get 5v and ground for both the breadboard and stick from the JROK board.
- Eight jumpers from the joystick harness to the breadboard on the input side of the inverting op-amps.
- Eight jumpers from the output side of the inverting op-amps to the JROK 49-way header.
There's a switch test menu on the JROK that should let you know if the inverter circuit works right.
Scott
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Brilliant! (of course) :cheers:
I suppose I SHOULD be trying to make my own (this is byoac after all, yeah?)
I just need to figure out everything that you posted here and order some ICs and harness connectors!!
:lol
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I just need to figure out everything that you posted here and order some ICs and harness connectors!!
For the JROK 49-way connector, instead of the "molex 90123-0108 or FCI 65039-029LF" housing listed in the manual you should be able to use a Dupont 1x8 connector housing, using either pre-fab jumpers or crimping your own wires/pins.
- Do you have an assortment of Dupont housings like these (https://www.amazon.com/Glarks-Connector-Housing-Compatible-Assortment/dp/B07CTHCG5T/?th=1) and a Dupont crimper like this one (https://www.amazon.com/IWISS-SN-28B-Crimping-AWG28-18-Dupont/dp/B08D67L3YS/?th=1)?
(there are also combo kits with ratcheting crimpers, housings, male pins, and female pins)
(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71f0BwKkyzL._AC_SL1000_.jpg) (https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/51rVBjKkaBL._AC_SL1500_.jpg)
Even if you aren't good at crimping pins, you can get pre-fab F-F, M-F, and M-M Dupont jumpers with 1x1 housings, pull off the 1x1 housing, and move the wire and pin to a 1x8 housing
(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81lyrrBqMIL._AC_SL1500_.jpg)
You could fit your circuit on one of the small 170 point breadboards, but it would be a bit tight (minimum of 15 out of 17 rows used) and the ICs would block at least one of the screw mount holes on the solderable version.
(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/513-hvtaTpL.jpg) (https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71Zj2k8xcWL._AC_SL1500_.jpg)
You'll have a lot more room with 400 point boards like this (https://www.amazon.com/Solderless-BreadBoard-Solderable-connection-breadboard/dp/B00MNUJQQY/) combo.
(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/81Ifzt4Ev4L._AC_SL1500_.jpg)
If you already have a regular breadboard, there's this (https://www.amazon.com/Busboard-Protot-Breadboard-Tie-Point-Breadboards/dp/B01KHWGLJ4/) solderable version . . .
(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71zfpimUZWL._SL1000_.jpg)
. . . or this (https://www.amazon.com/Solderable-BreadBoard-matches-tie-point-breadboards/dp/B0040Z6OK6/) 300 point version.
(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71pUafcYtML._SL1200_.jpg)
Scott
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Thanks as always Scott.
Immensely helpful yet again.
Especially this time for all those links.
Good strippers and crimpers I have, but that kind of Dupont assortment I have been needing for a while now!
This will be fun.
I don't even think I will destroy anything in the process.
:)
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Glad to assist. :cheers:
Good strippers and crimpers I have, but that kind of Dupont assortment I have been needing for a while now!
To be clear, you don't have the Dupont pins and housings but you do have the right kind of ratchet crimper jaws for Dupont pins? (i.e. not QDs)
- If the jaws aren't stepped like #3 in this image they are definitely not correct.
(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/71xuA+pbD9L._AC_SL1500_.jpg)
Even with the right tool it can be hard to get a good, clean crimp that fits into the housing.
- Unlike horseshoes, hand grenades, and atomic bombs, "close" isn't good enough for Dupont crimps. :lol
(https://m.media-amazon.com/images/I/61GL4tkEkwL._AC_SL1500_.jpg)
Scott
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Hey look at this.
Building something instead of buying it.
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Hey look at this.
Building something instead of buying it.
I like buildin' stuff!
Problem sometimes when I have no idea what in the hell I'm doing though.
Good thing we all have a Scott here. :cheers:
Now if I can get time to even scratch ---my bottom--- when it's itchy maybe I can build one of these.