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i was going to say, the extra IO circuit board is in the wrong spot for a retro, it would normally be mounted in the middle of the case, laying flat.

if i was adamant to put this in there, i would drill out the pop rivets and take that part off, and use some standoffs to mount the board to the front face of the cage. that way it's out of the way and still accessible to plug the stuff back in.

What if you drill out the pop rivets holding the audio/usb board and try and insulate it so it doesnt short out on anything? Will it fit then? Can't say i ever tried to mount a jp20 cage in a Retro.

I guess I'm gonna have to try and fabricate something, this vortex motherboard cage ain't fitting in the retro, no way no how.

Do you guys know what cable in the retro controls the side lights? I'm thinking it's the 5 pin white connector that does not fit into the 6 pin on the little daughterboard in this case.
I'm assuming the 8 pin is the one that controls the buttons and control stick on the front.

I guess I can throw it in a working vortex and leave the 6 pin unplugged and see if the lights work. I'll monkey around with it some more tonight when I get off work.

Hi

I just took a look and it works perfectly fine here. Copied FFBPlugin MAME64 files to folder, ensured MAME.ini had

#
# OSD OUTPUT OPTIONS
#
output                    windows

and then enabled Steering Feedback in test menu and had working Force Feedback 

I also did a bat file which was just

start /b jb_build64.exe raveracw -w -joystick_deadzone 0 -nvram_directory nvram1

Hope that helps

Hmm so you are right with 1 player mode. I was able to get ffb to work when creating a .bat file with your code. However, when running the two player linked mode code below that is in a bat file, it has no FFB for either player even though its the same folders (besides cfg2 and nvram2 for 2nd player) and even with the service menu ffb enabled via the dip switch and cleanly exited with tab. Any idea why that would be?


--The 2 player code with no FFB
start /b jb_build64.exe raveracw -w -cfg_directory cfg -nvram_directory nvram1 -comm_localport 15111 -comm_remoteport 15112 -comm_localhost 0.0.0.0 -comm_remotehost 127.0.0.1
start /b jb_build64.exe raveracw -w -cfg_directory cfg2 -nvram_directory nvram2 -comm_localport 15112 -comm_remoteport 15111 -comm_localhost 0.0.0.0 -comm_remotehost 127.0.0.1


--Your 1 player code that works with FFB
start /b jb_build64.exe raveracw -w -joystick_deadzone 0 -nvram_directory nvram1

yeah it's been a while since i seen it, so i might be remembering wrong... a guy brought a JVL in for us to fix and i was surprised it had a different computer in it than the one i'd always seen in the same ones we had. i just chalked it up to them running out of the older boards and them just switching over to the newer ones to use up the cabinets before the next machine dropped.

It wasn't a big deal at the time, as it was just needing the power supply caps fixed up and the batteries replaced in it.

but it was definitely different.

Possibly not the best forum for this; feel free to move...

I'd love to add Race Leader lights to my side by side driving setups but i have no idea where to start. The few youtube tutorials i've seen appear to jump spectacularly into the middle and thus make no sense to me. I'd like to be able to use one of the five-dollar arduino micros i have to do the job. Surely i don't need something like an LED Blinky or LEDwiz, right?

Any good guides to starting from scratch? As in, i have a MAME cab, it has no outputs set up and i have bought no hardware related to that. I'm aware that Howard's awesome MAMEhooker exists, but that's it. I have no idea how to set up anything.

I have thought about doing this to my twin San Franciso Rush cab build so the race leader lights up for whoever is in first (or leader of the two racers if not a ton of code). What device are you using to light up though? Short of buying an old Rush light or a Daytona USA topper with race leader lights on it, are you seeing anything you can purchase that will light up like those? I am guessing this applies to people who have old racing cabinets and not modded from scratch ones?

Separately--a ---smurfing--- tripod to calibrate a light gun? You gen-Xer's already getting the shakes? 

You don't know the half of it.....but you will

I won't speak for BadMouth, but I think the issue may have been that the Walther gun perhaps has a different lens, probably with a bit of wide angle enhancement.  I can tell you from experience that the wide-angle lenses can make using the built-in calibration wizard more challenging, sometimes allowing only a tiny window with the gun at a specific angle where the software is satisfied and will allow the user to continue.  The software was designed with the simple stock remote in mind, so anything extra/different is outside of what it is expecting.  I also found that the numbers weren't really close with an add-on lens, so hand tweaking is probably easier and more accurate in that case.

I was curious about those LED assemblies as well.  But I think it's going to be tough to beat the modules BadMouth dug up, especially for large displays.  A pre-wired solution using these would be the ideal solution.  They seem to be usable at 10' or better (without an add-on lens) and we aren't even using them at full output.

If i remember correctly i had tried to put a jp30 in a jp20 case and it did not fit. I believe the case fan was in the wrong position and would not clear something on the jp30 and also i think the vga connector and touchscreen connector were reversed and the cable did not reach. At least thats what i remember.

First of all, incredible mod. I've dreamed of being able to play Outrun 2 on a wheel at home ever since the arcade that had the game shut down. Ok, now to my issue. How do I get that "specific game settings" window with the centering spring settings (A user named Potato had this screenshotted in an earlier post if you want reference)? I have FXT 2.5 installed and I'm trying to get my g920 to have a centering force. Right now it only has ffb (which is spot on btw) but it doesn't return back to its original position. I saw in earlier posts to change some settings to 7500 and I already did that but nothing has changed. I don't have any mods on my wheel and it's completely stock. I've set the centering spring in the logitech app to 0 because I heard that it makes a difference but it's the same. Is there some way I can get the centering force to work without making any modifications to my wheel? It's a lot more difficult playing without this force on wheel so I'm really hoping someone can help me out.

 :applaud:Many THANKS!!! Great work again!!!