Main Restorations Software Audio/Jukebox/MP3 Everything Else Buy/Sell/Trade
Project Announcements Monitor/Video GroovyMAME Merit/JVL Touchscreen Meet Up Retail Vendors
Driving & Racing Woodworking Software Support Forums Consoles Project Arcade Reviews
Automated Projects Artwork Frontend Support Forums Pinball Forum Discussion Old Boards
Raspberry Pi & Dev Board controls.dat Linux Miscellaneous Arcade Wiki Discussion Old Archives
Lightguns Arcade1Up --- Bug Reports --- Site News

Unread posts | New Replies | Recent posts | Rules | Chatroom | Wiki | File Repository | RSS | Submit news

Recent Posts

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10

Started by SORHP - Last post by leapinlew

Got it all in today and fits like a dream!

Started by springman - Last post by springman

I ... didn't rest after all ...

Whatever I do, whenever I don't have a display at the DP port, my JVC would just have an out of range signal.

With my another HD8490 LP dual-port (DP & DVI-I as well), with everything else being the same, the JVC works and boots as the only display at 31kHz.

So I guess it's either the R5 240 card, or Windows 10.

For now I can only stay with the HD8490, though the R5 240 is like 3 times more powerful (able to run Supermodel3 Spikeout FE at 640x480p60!)

Started by Drakkorcia - Last post by PL1

The only problem is I have never used header pins before so I have no idea what kind of connector I need to crimp on the + wire so I can attach it.
They are commonly referred to as Dupont pins.

They can be a bit tricky to crimp properly, but you can avoid that by using pre-crimped wires or jumpers.

I don't want to solder.
Then Euro-style terminal strips are your friend.   ;D

I also assume for the ground you would just use either the P1 or P2 ground slots, right?

That's how Javery did it for his build here.
- He asked the same type of questions that you're asking.  That's why I included the link to his thread earlier.   ;)
- If you're using 5v to power the LED, use a 220 ohm resistor.
- A 1/4 W or 1/8 W resistor is more than large enough -- 1/2 W as recommended in this image is a bit of overkill.

I understand it has been recommended to put a resistor on the wire too but I hooked these buttons to 5v on my zero delay with no trouble at all. But if it is really necessary I'll give it a shot. Never installed a resistor before...
I'm really surprised that the LEDs didn't fry when you hooked them to 5v on your ZD.
- Maybe there is some sort of current-limiting circuit in the ZD that protected the LEDs.   :dunno

You need to limit the current to around 15 to 20mA for most LEDs or they'll blow like a fuse -- that's why a current-limiting resistor is your friend.


Started by HippoDan - Last post by Richie_jones

The problem with this design is this hinge can't be flush. It would have to be gapped quite alot to accommodate the button heights, so each side would fold flat. If you had very low profile buttons that stuck up say 3mm. You'd need a 6mm gap for it to fold flat..


Ah I see you mean these side flaps come out like drawers...yeah can't ever see that working practically..the stationary bits in the middle wouldn't be able to have anything with any depth in them or they'd stop the sides coming out...

Started by HippoDan - Last post by Mike A

Jimbo is very smart.

Started by HippoDan - Last post by Jimbo

I agree with Mike 100%

Started by HippoDan - Last post by Richie_jones

I agree keep it simple. But it's your machine so I'm interested in what you come up with.
Drawer slides in my experience, the more you spend the less wobble..Dont buy cheap..

Sent from my SM-N976B using Tapatalk

8   Main Forum / Re: GRS DOT PUSH PULL SPINNERon Today at 02:38:18 pm

Started by BUCKETHEAD - Last post by BUCKETHEAD

Well... apparently it isn't that easy.  I got into the settings and tried to assign the push pull to buttons 4 and 5. No Dice !  Won't take them. 😑

9   Everything Else / Re: So ... 3d Printers....on Today at 01:52:09 pm

Started by Howard_Casto - Last post by BadMouth

I realize that you gents are early adopters of this stuff and it is still evolving, but given tech pace these days one would assume it would be farther along in ease of setup/use/reliability.

It all kind of reminds me of my ex-wife.
The tech isn't that new.  The reason it exploded in recent years is that the patent for the process expired.  The heated chamber patent expired just recently.

What holds it back most IMO is the filaments.  They are extruded from standard industrial pellets meant for injection molding. Those plastics were originally formulated to shrink when cooling so they would pop out of the injection molds.  This is why plastics other than PLA warp so badly when different parts of the object cool at different rates.

PLA doesnt warp, but will deform in a hot car and degrades if placed in water.

I saw a story about BASF getting into filament a while back.  I am hoping they or some similar company formulate new types of plastic from the ground up.

Started by HippoDan - Last post by Mike A

Just build a simple 2 player cab.

It has already been ten years.

If you try to build this weird thing it will be another ten years and you still won't be playing video games.

Just build a simple cab so you can start playing. If you play it a lot then you can start building a more complicated cab to replace that one.

Pages: [1] 2 3 ... 10