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SavannahLion:
This is a little bizzare I guess. Probably why I can't figure out where to get the parts.

The biggest thing here is I want it to be bone stock. I don't want to have to pay $30 for just one part.

I was going to try using a C13/C14 combination (ie your bone standard PC power cord) but since I'm trying to feed multiple sources from this supply, a PC cord would be unsuitable. In theory, I think I can easily overload the 10amp limit of the PC cable trying to feed a PC, light, monitor, etc.

Then I thought I might just use a suitable extension cord and plug the female in into a male in from the cab. So I was going to go with a pigtail from the cab that I would plug into. But when I crushed the male end of the power cord moving one of my other cabs, I realized this was a dumb idea. A pigtailed power cord is just asking for it.  So then I thought having the male end of the standard NEMA 5-15 countersunk and installed as a wall plate, it would work well. Essentially a power "inlet" on the cab.

But for obvious safety reasons I don't think such fob would even exist. A cursory search seems to confirm this.

Well.. crap. What are my options now? I really want to be able to just use standard parts. An extension cord is about as standard as you're going to get. So is the C13 power cord. What else can I leverage for this? Any ideas?

protokatie:
Not much help to you as I had a hard time following your post; but how in the HELL are you going to exceed 10 amps!!?? Computer ~ 1 amp, CRT ~ 1-2 amps, speakers ~ 1-2 amps, cold cathode tube ~1 amp. You aren't even half way to 10 amps. As far as I know, most entire circuit lines in a house are set at 15 amps each. Do you intend to have a vacuum cleaner as an input device for this thing???

SavannahLion:
Basically, I want to use the standard plug you find on an ATX PSU and put it on the cab then use the standard power cord for that to plug in the cab and power the PC, LCD, etc. However.....

I was wondering about that myself, I think my math is way off.

I figured a hair under 1A on the PC so I tacked on 2A to pad. The LCD I calculated at 1/3A so I bumped it up to 1A. I actually forgot about the speakers. After my calculations and some number padding (for exactly the reason I forgot to consider the speakers), I came up with about 4A consumption at worst.

But when I start looking at specifications to get an idea of what I need to care for, my numbers get all out of whack. For example, looking at a selection of PSUs from Newegg, the lowest input rating I found was 6A with the highest at 10A for the "upper end" models. Even if I take a high end model and figure out how to actually use the full 900 watts it is supposed to have, I can't come anywhere near the 10A input value.

Looking at other cab examples here, it only further reaffirmed that I was missing some fundamental detail.

What am I missing here?  ???

Do I need to calculate waste energy lost in the conversion? If so, that's an insane amount of power being lost.

protokatie:
Think Watts, not Amps. 10 Amps @ 12 volts is only 1 Amp @ 120 volts. Converting power usage to Watts will be easier to deal with. A 10 Amp rated power cord @ 120 volts is a 1200 watt power cord. You may be taking the amp values of things without considering the voltage.

Ed_McCarron:

--- Quote from: SavannahLion on November 24, 2009, 03:23:49 am ---I was going to try using a C13/C14 combination (ie your bone standard PC power cord) but since I'm trying to feed multiple sources from this supply, a PC cord would be unsuitable. In theory, I think I can easily overload the 10amp limit of the PC cable trying to feed a PC, light, monitor, etc.

--- End quote ---

10A at what, 120v?  No clue where you are or what line voltage is - is 1200-ish watts.  Figure a few hundred for the PC, about the same for a monitor, and whatever the light is rated.  You hit 6-7A and it'd be impressive.

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